February 2018

Fashion Sewing Club
February 2018

Debbie’s Garments

Straight Skirt- The Fringed Skirt AW3106, Angela Wolf, 100% Wool.
AW is one of the few pattern makers that includes a separate pattern for lining and it works well. A fringe hem was not desired for this make so I lengthened the skirt 2 inches. The waistband was eliminated and replaced with petersham . Stitch length 2.5 , 70/10 needle and silk thread added to the pleasure of sewing with this lovely wool.

Raglan sleeve blouse with gathers- New Look 6471, View C, Silk Charmeuse.
1. Used petite length lines and also shortened another 2 inches at hem.
2. I used the shiny (rs) side of fabric as the wrong side.
3. Not a fan of slot opening in back so I made a ”placket” opening, stablizing seam allowances
4. Used 3 rows of gathering-found it produced a better result in the small amount of area requiring gathering.
5. Changed order of construction -sleeves to front and back and then side seams to get a better fit.
6. Once again used a 2.5 stitch length, 70/10, needle and silk thread.

Unlined Coat-Simplicity 8302, View C, Double Face Stretch Woven.
1. Made to pattern with the exception of “lining” the sleeves.
2. Lots of fitting between bust and shoulders. Used petite lines and also shortened 2 inches at hem.
3. Instructions are questionable, especially step #7 – directed to apply welts to front edge of side panel.

Completed Contemporary Couture Jacket – Vogue 7975, View C, Wool Tweed with Silk blend!

Katie’s Garments

McCalls 7257-Faux Fur & Polyester Satin Lining
1. Trimmed fur pile out of seam allowance to cut down on bulk. It was very messy, but important. Would suggest doing this outside in the summertime! ☺
2. Was a straightforward jacket to construct. The pockets are nice but they add bulk to an already bulky, boxy jacket.
3. Added fur hooks and eyes for closures

McCalls 6886-Stretch Sequins and Cotton Lycra for lining
1. This is one of Pattern Review’s 2017 top 10 patterns of the year.
2. Raised front neckline to hit at balance point and widened into a bateau neckline. Redrafted the back to a dramatically low V.
3. Self-lined dress to add opaqueness and smoothness.
4. Cut front lining significantly smaller to ensure a snug fit and no slippage.
A. Made front smaller by moving center front ~ ½ inch past fold of fabric.
B. Made back smaller by sewing center back seam 1 inch deeper.
C. Sewed ¾ inch shoulder seams
5. Straight-stitched around entire neckline (front and back) to ensure snugness.
6. Used size 14 stretch needle.

Christine Jonson Perfect Pants-Flare leg-Ponte knit
1. Flare legs are big this season- It’s all about the hem and the perfect length
2. This is a wonderfully drafted pattern. It has a great crotch. The center front and back seams are good for fitting.
2. LOVE the waist panel! Acts like shapewear if there’s enough negative ease and if chosen fabric has good recovery. My 71 year old mother loves these too.
3. Omitted pockets and faced hem to save on length and add shaping and weight to hems.

Morris Blazer-Ponte
1. Would highly recommend interfacing both the facing and the front pattern pieces. The pattern calls for interfacing the facing only and I found that the front (being a knit) draped more than the facing and it bagged at the hem
2. Hand-stitched hem to help compensate for the bagging.

Jalie Dolman Top-Jersey
1. Raised neckline by 2 inches to hit at balance point
2. Turned back shoulder seams by 1 inch, interfaced and inserted eyelets.
3. Cut ½ inch strips from ponte and laced through eyelets at shoulder.

Kristin’s Garments

Wide Banded Cardigan-McCall’s 7254-PR Top 10 Patterns of 2017-Assorted knits

1. Pattern was fun to put together. Recommend laying main jacket on cutting table and placing band on top, RST, to get it together correctly and see what front and back will look like.
2. Shoulder width is wide.

Sandra Betzina Twist Front Tunic-Vogue 1477-Rayon knit

1. Made to pattern EXCEPT for all of neck edges. Serged shoulders and then applied picot elastic to entire neck edge. A knit band would also work but pattern directions are awful.
2. Shortened length by 2”.

Sun Dress-Burda 6401-Double gauze
1. Pattern calls for back zip-eliminated and placed back bodice and skirt on fold.
2. Neck bias binding was too long but may have been my fabric.
3. Serger was very good at gathering edges-Stitch length 4 and Diff. Feed at 2.
4. Upper sleeve had a hem marking on it-but pattern seemed to suggest sewing “frill” directly to sleeve…

March 2018 Fashion Sewing Club
Saturday, March 10, 10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, March 13, 10:30 and again at 6:30, at Treadle