March 2018

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
March 2018
Debbie’s Garments

Navy Tunic- Simplicity 8557, View C, Cotton knit with spandex
1. Pattern uses purchased bias tape for neck edge. Instead I folded edge 5/8” to inside and covered stitched. I felt the neck opening was too wide so I ripped out the cover stitch and added a neckband.
2. The tunic on model looks like it is straight from hips -NOT- it is truly an A-line.
3. The back of tunic is longer than the front. I liked that look but did not like seeing the wrong side of fabric once hemmed. As a result I evened out the hem all around.

Travel Pants- Simplicity 8557, View A, Navy double knit
1. Chose this pattern for a pant that is super comfy for travel and an easy and quick make.
2. I didn’t want the legging look so I added a faux snap vent on the outside of the legs. To do this, extend the lower 6-8 inches of front and back outside seams one inch. Stitch outside leg seams. Press vent towards back. Topstitch vent 3/4” from folded edge.
3. Option to make buttonholes or snaps.

Colorblock Jacket- Jalie #2680, Women’s City Coat, 1 yard twill needed for upper body, 3/4 yard twill needed for middle and lower sections. One yard of light cotton for hood lining and trim. Two and one half yards Bemberg rayon for coat lining.
1. I copied this look from RTW using the Jalie pattern with several changes.
2. Determine finish length of jacket. – my is 30 inches.
3. I used the facing pattern piece as a guide and divided the piece into10 inch sections adding seam allowances.
4. Starting with lower section, I cut all of the pattern pieces into 3 colorblock pieces. I cut out the sleeve pieces after sewing side seams of jacket to get a better match in sleeve areas.
5. The jacket pattern is unlined, however I drafted a lining to hide all the colorblock seaming.
6. This jacket was a challenge for me. Too much engineering! Not at all a quick sew but I do think it will be a good addition to my Minnesota coat wardrobe.

Katie’s Garments

Paper Bag Pants-McCalls 7726
Stretch cotton

1. I love the look of paper bag waist pants. They are very on trend this spring and are very flattering.
2. Converted back pleats to darts to help give it more shape.
3. Followed fly front instructions per pattern. Had difficulty with the fly staying closed. It seems like the fly does not overlap enough. Or perhaps I made a technical error. Could very well be the latter. ☺
3. Added hooks and eyes to keep fly front closed.
4. Faced hem with lace to keep as much length as possible

Bodysuit-Simplicity 8513
Cotton/poly ribbing

1. This is my second make of this pattern.
2. Love the look of a bodysuit with a high-waisted pant.
3. Lowered and widened the neckline by roughly 2.5 inches
4. Next time may try to add silicone to my elastic around the leg opening to help keep it from riding up. Pamela Leggett from Pamela’s pattern recommended this during her shapewear class. My mother used this trick for her shapewear and it worked beautifully.

Stripe Dress-New Look 6493
Linen blend/ knit tricot

1. This pattern runs very large in the top. I would recommend sizing down at least a size, perhaps two. I ended up taking 3+inches in circumference in both the princess and side seams.
2. Recut the armhole after taking in side seams
3. Decided to self-line the bodice and lined skirt with tricot to increase opacity. I finished the lining with lingerie trim.
4. Added a front snap for modesty. This is definitely a hot weather dress! ☺

Kristin’s Garments

Unlined Jacket-Burda 7700-Wool blend
1. Needed to replace this wardrobe staple as the other is pilled. Followed the directions for wovens this time and used facings and interfaced them.
2. Pockets are necessary for a jacket. Cut on opposite of grain and used selvage for trim-nod to spring trend of fringe ☺
3. Highly recommend this pattern for many fabrics!
Tunic dress-Jasper Dress Paprika Patterns-ponte solid and print
1. PDF pattern-revised downloads are available for free. This is latest version V1.3-better shoulder fit and it lived up to its promise!
2. Still needed to add for hips ☺. Straightened lines from hip to hem. Omitted hem band-added 2” at hem.
3. Cut the collar down to size 1 from size 6 and like it much better.
4. Would set in sleeve when I make it again. Back sleeve gets funky.
Toaster Sweater Version 1 Revisited-sweatshirt fleece and ponte print
1. Couldn’t let go of yummy sweatshirt fleece so chopped off 6” and added a ponte skirt.
2. Used elastic in waist seam to support gathers.

My Version of Stylearc Cher Knit Dress-Vogue 9022-Wool knit
1. Added cowl neck and long cuffs.
2. Omitted opening at neck and slit at hem.

April 2018 Fashion Sewing Club:
Tuesday, April 10, 10:30 and 6:30 at Treadle
Saturday, April 14, 10:30 at Treadle