July 2018

Fashion Sewing Club
July 2018
http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments


Moto Jacket– McCall 7694, View A, Melisa Watson, 100% Cotton Dobby Cloth, (weave), Faux Leather, Lining ,Interfacing, separating Zipper and Snaps.
1. All jacket pieces were interfaced with fusible knit except faux leather areas to give the Dobby cloth more body.
2. The back yoke and front facing and upper collar constructed in faux leather.
3. I tried to sew smarter not harder and found the following tools and techniques helpful:
Non-Stick presser foot ($18-$35), Size 14 leather needle, and Solvy watersoluble stabilizer. I also changed the order of construction and did the cuffs in less steps than pattern instructed. My best resources were lots of patience and chocolate!

HB Ruffled Neck Sheath-McCalls 2401, Sleeveless with Squared V-Neck, Cotton Chambray

1. Changed order of construction – Shoulder seams, zipper and then applied ruffle.
2. To make ruffle measure neck opening and determine amount of gathering you would like. My neck opening was 28”. I cut a ruffle 3” wide by 42” long.
3. I applied a narrow hem to one long edge of the ruffle. Using a serger (SL 4, DF 2) I gathered the other long edge of ruffle.
4. Divide and mark Ruffle and neck edge by fourths. Pin rs of ruffle to rs of neck edge and baste. If pleased with ruffle, Stitch and clean finish neck edge with bias binding technique.
5. Option to eliminate the sleeve facings and apply a serged bias edge for armholes.

Easy Cardigan-McCalls 6844, View A adapted, Linen Sweater Knit
1. Changed sleeve length to 3/4.
2. Shoulder seams, neck edge, center front edges and bottom hems were stabilized with fusible knit tape.
3. Sleeve hems, neck edges, center fronts and bottom hems turned to ws and cover stitched.

Katie’s Garments

Simplicity 8059-Bonded Ponte Knit
1. Omitted facing and bound front edge with leather suede strips:
a. Rotary cut leather into 1 ¼ inch wide strips
b. Folded and pressed one edge ¼ inch.
c. Inserted center front fabric into fold and topstitched.
d. Used sharp scissor to cut away excess leather strip from back.
2. Used Scan n Cut (electronic cutting machine) to cut Asian symbol out of leather and appliqued to center back of cardigan.
3. Shortened length by roughly 12 inches off view E.
4. Omitted center front ties and back elastic casing.

Jalie 3351 Dolman Top– Rayon knit
1. Sewed per pattern

New Look 6459– Stretch Woven
1. Another great fitting New Look pair of pants- little to no fit alterations.
2. Ommited pockets for fear of gaping open.
3. Pressed center front crease to help elongate leg line.
4. Invisible zipper in center back is a great alternative to side placement.

New Look 6413– Rayon (dress) Knit (belt)
For dress:

1. Sewed view D
2. Love the center front invisible zipper-easy to get on and off.
3. Next time will shorten zipper by 1.5 inches to avoid interference in waist casing.
For belt:
1. Used woven interfacing to stabilize knit fabric –wanted to use up fabric from stash.
2. Added eyelets to add style and metallic element.
3. Spaced eyelets with SimFlex Sewing Gauge-many other uses too!
4. Eyelet setter is a must!

Pamela’s Pattern Perfect Tank– Random knits from stash

1. Highly recommend this pattern-great basic wardrobe piece with variations galore
2. Created fringe overlay by lengthening facing piece by roughly 5 inches and rotary cutting every 3/8 inch and pulling to curl.
3. Basted fringe piece to front and then used facing to finish neckline.
4. Added center back seam for sway back shaping.
5. Shaped side seams to silhouette body under fringe.

Sewaholic Patterns Gabriola Skirt– Denim-lightweight
1. This is an OOP pattern. Pattern line designed for pear-shaped women.
2. LOVE the design lines. My fabric choice doesn’t fully accentuate the beauty of them, but other fabrics (i.e. stripes) would be stunning.
3. Highly recommend this pattern if you can get your hands on one.

Kristin’s Garments

Mesh Summer Sweater-KwikSew 3232-Mesh knit
1. Extended front pieces at an angle from shoulder to hem by 10”.
2. Serged band, wrapped seam allowance and topstitched for neck edge.
3. Sleeve is narrow from elbow down-make armhole/upper sleeve smaller.

Golf Skirt-Vogue 1247 OOP-navy ponte
1. Omitted center vertical seam and lengthened by 5”.
2. Love the pockets for golf balls-already tested.
3. Simply applied elastic to waist.

Long Summer Vest-New Look 6514-Indian cottons

1. Instead of typical lining finish of lower bodice edge-apply a bias trim strip at the same time and wrap seam.
2. Added selvedge trim to center front edge of skirt.

Summer “House Dress”-McCall’s 7562, view B-madras patchwork, linen

1.Pockets similar to golf skirt but different technique.
2.Cut neck to pattern but then raised shoulders by 1.25”.
3. Added a faux button placket at neck. Lace wrap at back neck.
4. Added the shirttail hem from view C. Didn’t use sleeve bands.

*NOTE CHANGE -August 2018 Fashion Sewing Club
Saturday, August 11, 10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, August 14, 10:30 and 6:30 atTreadle
Thursday, August 16*, 10:30 at SR Harris,Burnsville