Kristin and Lucia’s Garments

Garment Sewing Group September 2026

Lucia’s Garments:

Spill The Tea – Pattern Emporium Tie Neck Top in rayon and Vogue 7881/Love Couture Workshop pants in rayon

Wanted to experiment with new patterns this summer.

Liked different lengths offered – did shortest tie option. Regular body length was good! Did a high round adjustment which I always do, but, because pattern was new also did a forward shoulder just in case. Not sure I needed it.

Was planning on do elastic at bottom of sleeve but like the look without it – shortened sleeves 3 inches.

I’m definitely not a fan of photo directions. The words and photos to do the burrito turn of the tie did not make sense to me. For me, pale print fabric choices also did not help.

Love Couture Workshop 2025/Vogue 7881 pants/Rayon from Emma One Sock

Didn’t try making these until 1/26 and ran into all sorts of issues with the waist and gave up. Loved the legs and the crotch fit.

Decided to retake the workshop and tried these on for first time since Jan at the workshop and voila – all the shaping I had done at side seams and CB had worked!! Who knew!

Just this week partially disassembled, finished seams and put contour waist band on. They are very comfortable – perhaps a bit too fitted? Haven’t worn them enough to tell.

Very Easy Vogue V9347

Corduroy from Sewing Lounge

Looked like a fun transitional top – to wear over a T-shirt.

Made a Sm muslin based on measurements but shoulders seemed a bit tight in front so this is a Med. Fun and games – the collar was an 1/2” too short. Shortened the main sleeve 2” and the lower part 1”. Shortened the gathered piece 1 1/2” on muslin because I didn’t have enough fabric but decided to keep it – didn’t want it to overwhelm. Tapered to Sm at cuff and even Sm cuff was way too long. Put buttons on cuff for looks.

Since it’s an older Vogue it has a shoulder dart which I like but might move it a bit forward next time. Also did a HR.

Because I thought iron on facing wouldn’t stick well, I use a cotton batiste in collar and on facings. Used a square of silk organza behind snap w/button for more support.

Sterling Jacket Sewing Workshop

Solid ponte (nylon/rayon)

Plaid ponte (polyester)

This is a bonus project. Started it on Sewing Retreat but didn’t plan or expect to finish it.

Went together pretty fast but directions are for finishing all seams with rolled hems. A few brief suggestions if you want to do seams. Did run into more issues with that than I thought I would.

Used buttons from my mother’s stash. Used silk organza behind the placket bands so buttonholes would be secure.

Really like the darts in the sleeve. Decided, instead of folding under the heavier ponti for a seam or leaving it raw – to put the thinner plaid as a facing on the outside – thank you Kirstin

Vogue 7881 and Fit for Art Eureka Pants/Love Couture Workshop 2026

Cotton/Denim from EOS

This is a muslin and it had lots of surprises, too many to write down but will relate.

Did make this into elastic waist – very easy. Started to try and make a bunch of little adjustments and decided to only scoop out the back crotch to closer match the 2025 pair.

Very positive result – I now have 2 pants patterns that I can work back and forth with. One is form fitting the other quite loose.

This is a solid foundation to build on.

Spill the Tea Variation

Pattern Emporium and B6026 K Tilton

Hemp fabric from Marcy Tilton

Well this was fun. Sewed center front same way as for the tie version.

Wanted a more fitted sleeve so used arms eye shape/size and sleeve from well fitting Butterick pattern.

Since I’ve never had to use a forward shoulder on the Butterick shirt, and, I was using same should height from bottom of arm hole to shoulder didn’t think I’d need a forward shoulder. Wrong!! Very annoyed as I love everything else about this – fabric is a great weight.

Kristin’s Garments:

Moroccan Vest Burda 5869

Amy Butler Bundle of kantha squares

Strategically flat locked all squares together to fit on pattern pieces. Narrowed shoulders. Bias binding all around applied with flatlock and hand stitched on back side. Reversible except for closure.

Kantha cloth up close

Tee and Rashguard/Tina Tee Jalie

Gorgeous green knit that I wish I had more of

This is a revised tee pattern from Jalie. The sleeve is no longer on the fold. I like how they split the pattern pieces-makes it easy to go between sizes. Jalie stayed loyal to its close fit.

Squared Neckstand Claudette Shirt by Jalie

Cotton shirting

Diagonal corners instead of a rounded collar stand and the same feature on the cuff. I like the crispness of it and looks better than my rounded collar stands 🙂 This is drafted to be a more generous fit.

Alabama Chanin At Last! Marie-Claude Raglan

Alabama Chanin knits

A fun project that fills my artsy cup. It’s full now 🙂 Love the two layers of knit stitched together.

MIA Preview Party-Saturday, October 3, 8-11:30 pm

October-cohost Amy Frankfurt

Thursday, October 8, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, October 10, Ginny’s, Rochester

Wednesday, October 14, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

September Meetings #3

Chalk and Notch Rivi Shirt
Sewaholic Granville Shirt
Simplicity 1080
StyleArc Brontë
Burda 6114
Butterick 7061
New Look 6263
StyleArc archived pants and Simplicity top
Grainline Studio Coram Top
Hudson Pants and Beginners Guide to Dressmaking top
Teddy Top StyleArc
Friday Pattern Company Donny Shirt and Noodlehead bag
Merchant and Mills Florence Top
School sewing
Vogue 9057

September Meetings #2

On to Creative Sewing in Apple Valley-

A Bit of Knitting
Fun embellishments to Sewing Workshop Urban Pant
Pattern Emporium Alba Shirt and Love Notions Coda Coat
Sinclair Top and Serendipity Studio Jordan Jacket
Wearing StyleArc Albie Shirt
New Look S0945
Forest to Thread/Izzy Patterns Dress
Rectangle Top and Assembly Line Cuff Top
Madison Fauve Almost Shirt
Grainline Studio Thayer Jacket
Vest Butterick 5359 and Cutting Line Discover Something New
Helen’s Closet Moss Jacket, Sew House Seven Revel Topper and Burda 6085 pants
Love Notions Ravinia Skirt Hot Patterns Shirt
Pendleton Jacket
McCalls 8133 and Butterick
Jalie Roxane Pants and Portsea Luxe Sweat

September Meetings #1

Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester was the location of our first meeting in September. Lots of people and great makes to see! Sorry I didn’t get all the patterns-email me if you want me to add them to your picture 🙂

Friday Pattern Company Donny Shirt
Closet Core Nicks Tunic
Friday Pattern Company Marlo Sweater
Everyday Jansdottir Pilvi Jacket and Miss Moore Good Times Dress
McCalls 7975
Simplicity 9272
New Look 6622 Top and vintage skirt pattern
StyleArc Albi Shirt
Sewing Workshop Now Shirt
Self drafted skirt and Atelier Brunette La Chemisette

End of Summer Sewing Retreat

A great time was had by two groups of sewists hosted by Kay Dole and myself at Dragonfly Dreams in Lake City. The space and lighting was great. Weather was amazing. Walkability to stores, coffee shops and the lake was thoroughly appreciated. Wish I would have gotten more photos of the first group!

August Vacation

Even though we have no Garment Sewing Group meeting this month, the weather has made afternoon sewing a cool alternative to being outside.

Sew Social meets on Thursday, August 20.

There’s room for one more in the Rolled Hem serger class on August 19 at 3:30 at Open Studio.

Basic Sergery class on Saturday, September 12 at noon at Sew Inviting has 4 openings.

Go to store websites to register. More classes will be coming for fall.

September Garment Sewing Group Cohost-Lucia Turner

Wednesday, September 9, Ginny’s, Rochester

Thursday, September 10, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, September 12, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

I’m hoping to turn my Amy Butler squares from Morocco into a wearable garment for September 🙂

July Cohost and Host Photos

July was a big month for attendance!! Cohosting seems to be working very well-thanks, everyone!

Sandra’s Garments:

Maker’s Atelier Pareo Dress in Indian cotton print

First made a muslin with a bedsheet to mimic 100% cotton drape. Sewed up a straight size 16, pleased.

Pattern shows a slight dropped shoulder which I kept.

A wonderful, fun and easy sew, interesting design. I’ve made 2 already.

Cashmerette Kelsoe Top made to dress length

Sewed up this one-of-a-kind cotton hand dyed in Zambia, exactly 2 yards, gifted to me.

Made dress in a size 14, TNT pattern for me, knew it would work well.

Lowered bust darts 2”, flared out as much as fabric allowed for an a-line skirt effect.

Simplicity 8753 Men’s denim shirt

I chose size 46 in the 44-52 size pattern, classic fit. Needed to raise pocket 2”. (Even patternreview.com reviewer noted pocket is way too low!)

Flat-felled seams, fun facing fabric, not easy, but worth it.

Papermaple Studio French jacket in boucle

This was a 5-day workshop in New Orleans I participated in in March ‘25. There were 4 of us in this lovely well-appointed sewing studio. Leisa Stanton is owner, teacher, designer. We each did a muslin first for perfect fit and proceeded with quilting, even horsehair lining some for structure. The outside fabric is a Linton wool tweed, inside silk charmeuse. Many, many hours of hand sewing on inside lining to jacket. Later I purchased SusanKhalje.com French Jacket pattern and viewed online videos to help me understand the exact sewing of lining. There are no written instructions.

2. This is a casual jacket for casual wear, no buttons, a hook & eye designed to be worn over a T-shirt or camisole.(Ms. Stanton will be teaching a Trench Coat sewing class sometime this coming year with Chicago Haute Couture Club.)

Kristin’s Garments:

Puff and Pencil Versa Pants in Taslan fabric and McCall’s 7899 blouse in Indian print cotton

Taslan-a modern, high-tech synthetic woven material—typically made from nylon or polyester—that undergoes an air-jet texturizing process to give it a soft, matte, cotton-like feel while retaining all the strength and durability of synthetic fibers. Developed originally by DuPont, it is highly prized in performance apparel because it eliminates the shiny, slippery plastic feel of traditional nylon.

FYI-Do Not Iron!!

I saw a sample pair and grabbed the pattern-and fabric! In retrospect, I might have chosen a different pattern-the width at hem is 23” but I like loose pants for summer so all good. I was also in between two sizes and went with the larger one so maybe smaller next time?

Lowered the waistline 1” all around. Sewing machine stitches skipped unless I was topstitching on a serged seam allowance. Seams puckered and as mentioned, it is not an iron friendly fabric so I topstitched all seams. It still puckers some but I kind of like the look.

Pleated Sleeve Blouse, McCall’s 7899 in India print cotton

So many big sleeves out there-the pleats at the shoulder attracted me to this pattern.

Sleeves are 2” shorter than pattern as I ran out of fabric. Back neck opening is not necessary-large enough to get over head.

Stylearc Besharl Knit Tee

Linda M. wore this to Rochester meeting last month and I had to try it.

Easy cut on sleeves, forward side seam and back center strip allows for color blocking.

Fairly straight shape so may need to alter for pear shapes.

Love Notions Cadence Top and Dress in cotton seersucker

This pattern has a more narrow scoop neck with the slit option which was fun. Great directions for the burrito roll for connected neck and sleeve lining.

Widened at waist and hip but took in under arm.

3. Glad this fabric is gone! Must remember I don’t like it!

4. Paulette made this last month so I had to try it to compare to Love Notions Harmony Top.

No Garment Sewing Group meetings in August!!

September-cohost Lucia Turner

Wednesday, September 9, Ginny’s, Rochester

Thursday, September 10, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, September 12, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

July Part Two

Sewing Workshop Hudson Top and Pant
Closet Core Cielo Dress
Bog Coat
Pattern Emporium About Town Top and Make a Move Pants
Granddaughter crochet project
Too relaxed fit blouse-working on next edit 🙂
Closet Core Pietra Pants and Sew House Seven Remy Raglan Top
Self-drafted top
Upcycling tablecloths and men’s shirts
Closet Core Crew Edith Dress
Simplicity 8889
Vogue 1200 Blouse and Love Notions Allegro Skirt in last of fabric purchased on travels
Twig and Tale Breeze Shirt
Sometimes you need a break from sewing garments 😉

Summer Serger Classes-get them while they’re hot!

Serging is hot this summer and classes fill quickly. Go to store websites to register. Hope some of them will work for you if you are learning to serge!!

1. Basic Sergery

Do you have a serger you don’t know how to use? Are you a little confused about threading? Take the fear out of serging and get comfortable with what could become your favorite sewing tool. Start as a beginner or take the class to brush up or refresh your skills. 

Skill Level: All-no serger experience necessary

Class is offered at stores-go to store website to register:

Saturday, July 11, 1:30-3:30, Open Studio Sewing, St. Louis Park SOLD OUT

Saturday, July 11, 4-6 pm, Open Studio Sewing, St. Louis Park

Saturday, July 18, 10-12 pm, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Wednesday, August. 5, 5:30-7:30 pm, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Saturday, August 22, 1:30-3:30, Sew Inviting, St. Paul

2. Hem Your Tees with the Flatlock (Serger) Stitch

Is your closet full of tees that are too long? Do you want a hem that stretches with the knit? Do you want to go beyond finishing raw edges with your serger? As long as you know how to thread your machine, this is your class 🙂

Learn the ins and outs of the flatlock stitch!

Need to know how to thread your serger or have taken Basic Sergery from Material Girls

Class is offered at following stores-go to store website to register:

Wednesday, July 15, 1-3 pm, Open Studio Sewing, St. Louis Park

Saturday, July 18, 1:30-3:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

3. Rolled Hem Serger Stitch

Finish the edges of a napkin or headscarf after you learn to set your serger up for the rolled hem stitch. Basic threading knowledge of the serger is required-you’ll learn the specifics of the rolled hem, narrow hem and picot stitch (they’re all related 🙂 Experiment with other rolled hem applications as time allows (lettuce edge, tucks, etc.)

Need to know how to thread your serger for basic 4 thread stitch or taken Basic Sergery from Material Girls.

Wednesday, August 5, 2:30-4:30, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

4. Coverstitch Mastery (More Tee Shirts to Hem?)

Got long tees?? The coverstitch is the best way to hem knits! We will learn to thread/set up your machine and some techniques that will make hemming easy. We will also explore other applications for your coverstitch machine.

Your coverstitch machine may be a stand alone machine (there is no blade that moves up and down) or part of a combination serger/coverstitch machine (there are 5 or more spool pins on your machine). If you aren’t sure, please email the instructor with a picture or the make and model at materialgirlsewing@gmail.com.

No experience with coverstitch necessary.

Class offered at following stores-please go to their website to register-

Wednesday, July 15, 9:30-11:30, Open Studio SewingSt. Louis Park

June Makes-Part Two

After Creative Sewing on Thursday, we finished off at Ginny’s in Rochester. Paulette was our wonderful cohost for June-keep scrolling down to see her and Kristin’s makes-

Sewing Therapy Rectangle Top
OOP KwikSew Jacket
Me and Miss Moore Pinafore and 10X2 Studio Patterns Badger-so cute!!
StyleArc Besharl Tee and Marley Shirt
Butterick 7080
Pants class sloper-first version
Maker’s Atelier Flared Shirt
Sewing Workshop Helix Tee
Sweatshirt Jacket with cutouts

Paulette’s Garments

Seamwork Bloom Square Neck Top and Love Notions Allegro Pants Celery Linen

Pant Alterations: Shortened 6 inches, straightened hip line, scooped back crotch 

To make wide legs version, added 1” on inseam at hem line to knee and then gradually curved in.  For the out seam added 1” at hem and blended to the hip line.

Used “TUTORIAL: Creating Pockets and Wide Legs on the Magna” Tom Kat Stitchery on YouTube. Didn’t use a drawstring and left out front pockets.  

Top Alterations: 1/2 inch narrow shoulder, 1/4 inch petite adjustment, 1/4 forward shoulder adjustment 

Put the pintucks on the inside because the thread didn’t match well  

Nice clean finish on inside

Pattern Emporium Songbird Jacket in silk cotton blend and Seamwork Julia Tank in cotton pointelle

Pattern Emporium Songbird Jacket: Alterations: 1/4 forward shoulder, 1/4” petite adjustment, raised waist by 1”

Coverup length with flared 3/4 sleeves version  

Fabric was very difficult to sew

Seamwork Julia Tank

Alterations: 1/4” forward shoulder, shortened 1” at waist

Love Notions Cadence Dress in linen

Alterations: 1/4 petite adjustment, 1” gaping neck adjustment, shortened 3”, raised waist 1”, 3/4” full bicep

Used 3/4 sleeve pattern, shortened 4” and straightened sides.  Made a 2” hem and then turned up cuff 1 1/4”.

I had blended to next size for hips and waist, but after trying the dress on took that out.

This is my TNT pattern for a basic woven top, very happy with the dress version. 

Kristin’s Garments

Megan Nielsen Hovea Jacket in wool knit and Helen’s Closet Falconer Pant barrel version in lightweight denim

1. Hovea Jacket is made for wovens but a favorite RTW sweater of mine measured almost exactly the same so went for it. Used mid length.

Pants are made to have a waistband and zip but with 6 seam allowances to adjust at waist I figured I could get by with an elastic waist. A bit tight when pulling over hips but great when wearing!

Omitted pockets but would put them in forward seam instead of hip.

Jalie Marie Claude tee in cotton knit

1. I have only made this as turtleneck so wanted to try the crew neckline. It seems lower on pattern but works great!

2. Short sleeves aren’t part of the pattern.

Butterick 6848 Sleeveless Tee in activewear knit and Closet Core Sepia in activewear stretch woven

Top:

Inspired by one of my daughter’s garments I left all hem edges raw. The fabric was cool in the hot weather and didn’t wrinkle.

This is my favorite barrel leg pant so far because the leg is slimmer. Added 2” in length and shortened front crotch by 1/2”.

McCall’s 6503 View C in rayon twill

I’ve made View A of this dress a bunch of years ago and after looking at current patterns, decided to try again. I added another ruffle of approximately the same depth.

Used my new sloper to compare and shortened the waist but that’s about it. No buttonholes!

July Meeting-cohost Sandra

Wednesday, July 8, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, July 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, July 11, Open Studio, Mpls.

No meeting in August-taking vacation :))