December Garment Sewing Group

Happy Holidays, everyone! This is our last Group meeting for 2020. We want to thank everyone for hanging out and inspiring us and wish you the best in 2021!.

We will be on Zoom Thursday, December 17, from 1-2 pm for Sew Social (free!) if anyone wants to stop by and say hi!

Garment Sewing Group

December 2020

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Autumn Floral Sweater Knit Dress

McCalls 7432, View C

Brushed sweater knit

1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as a rounded back adjustment. I find the back neckline too low for colder months so this adjustment helps with that and unfortunately I am getting rounder in all the wrong places!

2. The dress is lined/underlined with tricot except for sleeves. I don’t want the dress sticking to my tights.

3. A TNT pattern that checks all the right boxes.

Denim Novelty Knit Top

Itch to Stitch Bellavista Top

1. Did standard petite adjustments.

2. Cut one layer of cowl neck piece and decreased width of cowl due to heaviness of fabric – just too much of everything.

3. The ws of the cowl is stitched to the rs of neck edge for a cleaner finish.

4. Not a fan of this fabric and pattern. Probably operator error in choice of fabric.

Orange/Tan Dot Zipper Hem Sweatshirt

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater Adapted

Cotton French Terry, Two 7” zippers

1.To match my inspiration I made a full front pattern piece and drew my design lines . Then I cut the front apart and added sa . See photo.

2. The asymmetrical seam allowances were stabilized in zipper area. Then the side seams were stitched from armhole to zipper opening.

3. Zippers were inserted leaving a one inch hem allowance. The top was completed as pattern directs.

4. I never tire of the Toaster Sweater – so much versatility  in design and fabric.

Kristin’s Garments:

Workout Jacket with Twists

Activewear with fleece backing/Joann Fabrics

Butterick 6596 OOP

1. A slow sew garment with many twists and turns. May have been some better techniques to use when sewing with knits.

2. Pockets were omitted because of difficulty with pattern directions and they would have been in my armpit!

3. Nice fit with princess seams. Good sleeve width.

4. Zipper was easy to install but probably should have been shorter for sitting.

5. Could use a snap or Velcro to hold asymmetric facing in place.

Sweater Dusters (sounds like something I would use to clean!)

Version A: Blue rayon sweatshirt fleece-more stable knit/Sewing Lounge

Blackwood Cardigan/Helen’s Closet

1. Made to pattern except for wider hips-fit is closer than desired for wearing a long sleeved shirt underneath.

2. Blackwood Cardigan is not supposed to come together at center front-just hang open.

3. Gifted to daughter who said “The cardigan was so comfy and cozy today! I’ll take 5 more please😊”

Version B: Navy double faced wool sweater knit-not so stable/SR Harris

Blackwood Cardigan/Helen’s Closet-same size as Version A

1. No pattern changes so I could compare to Version A. Much more suitable for wearing over another shirt in winter.

2. I like the weight of the band on a clingy sweater knit. Cuffs are also a plus on a thinner knit like this one.

Version C : Navy and neutrals stable wool knit/Treadle

Simplicity 8059 (neck facing) as a base with sew on band from New Look 6735

1. There’s just something about this pattern that keeps me coming back!

2. Love the wool and the “coatigan” feel of it.

3. I prefer the feel of enough fabric to fit around me without being too big (kind of like how it feels to wear short pants when you are tall and have worn short pants because you had to 🙂

Version D: Rust double faced wool sweater knit-not so stable/SR Harris

Simplicity 8059 etc.-same as Version C above

1. Used same pattern size as Version C but added cuffs to bring in at wrists. No lycra in the sweater knit made that a must in my mind. Very happy with results. Great over pj’s.

Designer Shirt

Rayon woven stripe from NYC

Wong-Singh-Jones Jaipur Blouse/Hot Patterns

1. Another slow sew with some challenges. Not a lot of good directions and questionable pattern markings but puzzled through it and it has cool features with the horizontal bust dart, vee neck and cuffs.

2. Tried a new technique on hem band. Last month I used Solvy, this month I sewed bands together for 1” and then refolded seams and stitched remaining band to corner.

3. Won’t make this again but appreciated the designer style and the pattern maker’s faith in me to “make it work”!

(Wong-Singh-Jones refers to a multi-cultural marketing company active from 1990-99?)

Granville Shirt-minus the sleeves!

Shirting cotton/Treadle

Granville Shirt/Sewaholic Patterns

1. Sleeves were sacrificed for another project that needed a contrast 🙂 which wasn’t too hard because I love sleeveless button up shirts.

2. Construction and fit of this shirt pattern with yoke, darts and back princess seams is great!

3. Got into trouble with my bias bound armholes. I hope I remember NOT to use silk as bias binding as it gets narrower as it is stretched!

January 2021 (Yay!) Garment Sewing Group Zoom:

10:30 AM

Saturday, January 9

Tuesday, January 12

Thursday, January 14

November Garment Sewing Group

Good to see people-familiar and new 🙂 “Wearable now” seemed to be the theme for Debbie and myself-

Please note that instead of a photo of the pattern, the pattern name is a clickable link and will take you directly to the pattern website.

Debbie’s Garments:

Teal Asymmetric Jacket

Free download from Sew Style Magazine

Lana Bolleto Boiled Wool, 60% Viscose, 40% Wool

1. I have been sorting through pattern stash and came across this jacket and thought I would give it a try.

2. Even though the directions are vague and incomplete it is a quick and easy make, especially when using boiled wool.

3. The buttonholes went in nicely.  I did edge stitch all raw edges but it certainly wasn’t necessary.

Navy Shawl Neck Cardigan

McCalls 7254, view C

Designer Plush Cotton French Terry

1. Another pattern from stash. This was a pattern of the year on Pattern Review from 2017. I am late to the party! I love this fabric and wanted to be warm and nice looking at the same time and thought this was the ticket. I did make a few changes.

2. I used one layer-no facing-for the collar and peplum to eliminate bulk.

3. I turned the collar seam allowance to right side and covered stitched the entire cardi.

4. I didn’t like the look of the raw edge on the collar so I added a narrow knit band for a clean finish.

5. I used the serger and cover stitch machine for most of the construction but when I needed to use the sewing machine my walking foot did the trick.

To complete my outfits I used the following tried and true patterns:

Watercolor Splatter Dot Jersey Knit turtleneck

Jalie #2805

Solid Teal Stretch Pinwale Corduroy Pants–

Eleonore Jalie Pull on Pants #3461

Kristin’s Garments:

Monet Boucle Jacket

Chenille Boucle from NYC buying trip with Peggy Sagers

Burda 7700

1. This is a favorite pattern-I’ve worn out the other one! Love the big but not too big size and the collar with minimal bulk at center front, the pockets, the length, everything!!

2. Pattern is written for fulled fabrics or linen type (no facings vs. facings) which adds to its versatility.

3. I used facings but no interfacing except at neck edge as it seemed to take a lot of abuse during construction.

4. I trimmed off a long triangle at underarm of sleeve and side seam to eliminate some bulk and it worked well. Set the sleeve in instead of flat application.

5. Tried topstitching the sleeve seam allowance both directions to see if it laid differently with the drop shoulder but inconclusive results.

6. I applied the collar in one piece with a bias strip on top of seam and then rolled around and under seam allowance and stitched in ditch.

Luxe Sweatshirt

Sweatshirt fleece

Pinnacle Top/Sweater by Papercut

1. Intriqued by the triangles, I chose to color block the pattern. The versions without the top triangle got quite low and I wanted warmth.

2. Pattern is one big piece with no shoulder seam and then the two triangles. Would be fun with a stripe.

3. The instructions were well written and it all went together well.

4. It didn’t really flare out as it shows in pattern.

5. Was a little on the short side so added a hem band with diagonal slits. Used Solvy to keep the butted bands together during application to bottom of garment.

6. Copied the diagonal slits for the sleeve bands and put the slits opposite the sleeve seam and they ended up in a perfect place!

7. Doubled the width of the neck band for a little more coverage.

Skinny Pants

Peggy Sagers 4 Piece Yoga Pant

Beyond Yoga activewear knit

1. A great finishing touch to the other two garments.

2. Added a waistband instead of elastic sewn directly to top of pants.

December Garment Sewing Group via Zoom:

10:30 AM

Tuesday, December 8

Thursday, December 10

Saturday, December 12

October Garment Sewing Group

Transition season dressing has turned into winter dressing!! Guess we’ll have to “make it work”. Awesome group of people attended the three meetings with some new faces too-

Garment Sewing Group

October 2020

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:  

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater

Forest Green Novelty Knit Top

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater 

Cotton Poly Blend with rayon Jersey bottom

  1. Lengthened the body 1” and shortened cuff by 1”.
  2. Omitted the band and added a shirt tail hem shape piece to front and back. The  two layers are stitched together with a cover stitch hem and the shirt tail is hemmed separately.
  3. This is a TNT pattern and is fun to make with unique fabrics. 

Fall Mini Capsule

Rust Pinwale Cord Skirt

Simplicity 1321

Simplicity 1321, View A

  1. Added 1” to skirt length and omitted pockets.
  2. Lined skirt with many colors of rayon lining – lining stash slim due to COVID!
  3. Another TNT pattern for me especially in terms of fit.

Rust/Navy Shepherd Plaid Shirt

Kwik Sew 3555, adapted

Cotton

  1. Omitted back yoke and made a faux cuff. Added vertical darts to front and back.
  2. This shirt fabric is so comfy and soft. This is the first time I used this fabric and plan to use it again. It is also a TNT pattern and I learn something new every time I use it.

Autumn Floral Tee Shirt

Forget Me Not Iris Tee

Rayon jersey

  1. Did my standard petite adjustments and a narrow shoulder adjustment.
  2. The pleat at the bottom of the sleeve got my attention so I had to give this pattern a try.
  3. The pattern contains a short and long sleeve with pleats and basic tee. 
  4. The pleats look complicated but are not at all due to clear and concise directions. A new TNT pattern for me!

Kristin’s Garments:

Lace and Work Jacket

Grainline Thayer Jacket 

Denim and novelty lace

Lining: Cotton/silk and vintage kimono

  1. What can I say about a pattern that goes together really well and fits too! This is a lined work jacket pattern made to fit my pear shape.
  2. To copy the jacket from the Burda magazine I basted the lace to the pockets and yokes. A bit of white shows when the lace is folded back but that can be colored with marker.
  3. I omitted the chest pockets. I felt the lace would be enough to balance out the hem pockets.
  4. Instructions were excellent. The lining went so smoothly and there were no “neaten the edges” instructions.
  5. I would advise marking any pattern “clips” before cutting as the sizes and small lines can be easy to miss.
  6. Finally got out my Kamsnap snap press and it is awesome!!

Another-Variation-on-a-Big-Sleeve Turtle

Burda

Rayon knit

  1. The rayon was so yummy and fallish that I had to try my TNT pattern with the bell sleeve variation.
  2. It’s a lot of sleeve! But kind of fun! I used my differential feed to finish the raw edge of the bell which made it easier to hem up the casing.

Snuggly Joggers

Simplicity 8268/Hudson Pants from True Bias

Rayon Sweatshirt Fleece

Activewear for waistband and ankle bands

  1. Compared the Simplicity and Hudson Pant and they are very similar. 
  2. Serged them up and then remembered the voice of Maggy (store owner) saying, “The stretch is cross grain on this fabric.” Too late-the diaper feeling was already there with a front crotch that was growing.
  3. Really like the fabric so keeping the bands will adjust waist as things grow!! Covid pants 🙂

Garment Sewing Group via Zoom:     

November

10:30 AM                                     

Tuesday, November 10

Thursday, November 12 

Saturday, November 14

December

10:30 AM

Tuesday, December 8

Thursday, December 10

Saturday, December 12

September Garment Sewing Group

Things didn’t change much under our new name-we still were inspired by everyone’s creativity and interest! People attended from Texas, Alaska and Florida! That’s the beauty of Zoom and why we intend to continue at least one Zoom meeting after we are back to normal (don’t go there 🙂

Garment Sewing Group

September 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

Coral Novelty Knit Casual Jacket-

NewLook 6251, View A

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

2. Used mesh for pocket bags and cut 4 rather than 2 as pattern directs. I intended to increase pocket size to enable pocket bag to be caught in the stitching of hem and zipper but I forgot! Because of that the pockets needed to be topstitched to garment front.

3. I inserted invisible zippers in princess seam rather than exposed zipper at pocket as pattern directs. I also applied a contrast binding to zipper tape.

4. The fabric was difficult to work with. The serger chewed more than cut and the walking foot was necessary for all other stitching.

Kristin’s Cropped Rust Jacket and Debbie’s Navy Version-

Closet Core Sienna Maker Jacket, View C

Pendleton Wool

1. I did not make a muslin for this jacket but instead did my usual fitting adjustments.

2. I should’ve made a muslin – so I did before I made the second jacket. The new adjustments included shortening between shoulders and bust one inch, forward shoulder and narrow shoulder even though it is a drop sleeve.

3. The jacket is for the intermediate sewer and it is extremely important to follow instructions especially when making back placket and when to put buttonhole on sleeve!

4. I did make some changes in construction – interfaced pocket hems, did a single one inch hem rather than a double fold hem, and horizontal buttonholes on back placket rather than vertical.

5. I am very pleased with my second make and grateful to have a personal fit master. I was able to thank her with an almost finished Rust Sienna Jacket that fits her nicely!

6. Kristin’s addendum-As long as you have another body-you don’t need to make a muslin 🙂 I am very happy with my Sienna Maker Jacket! I added buttons and a one inch band to the sleeves with not too much left for a hem but it worked and will be a fun fall jacket. Thanks, Debbie!

Terracotta Water Wave Jacket-

Itch to Stitch Hvar Jacket

Soft Gauze Sweater Knit

1. I used the wrong fabric for this pattern accidentally! I had intended to use this fabric for another project and somehow got the two mixed up and didn’t discover my mistake until it was too late. Oh well.

2. The pattern calls for drapey woven or stable knit. The sweater knit did not fit that category so I adjusted by eliminating the darts and thinking of the garment as a sweater and not a jacket. I also shortened the length between shoulder and bust and went down a size by taking large seam allowances.

3. This is a quick and easy make. The entire garment was serged except for topstitching the princess seams. An afternoon make.

Kristin’s Garments:

Warmer Weather Fall Blouse

Cielo Top and Dress by Closet Core Patterns, View B

Rayon woven

1. I’ve made the dress before and knew that it was a bit broad at the neck and shoulders so placed center fronts and backs on fold but then rotated keeping waist point on the fold but making neck a bit smaller and hips wider. Kind of a quick fix but it worked very well.

2. The short yokes at the shoulder I cut four and doubled them to give a little more stability.

3. I tried it as a longer blouse but decided I like short better in this blouse.

4. Pattern directions great. I used contrast inside the lantern sleeve.

5. A vest with deep armholes would go nicely over this blouse-if it stays this cold!!

Fall Ankle Pants

Pietra Pants by Closet Core Patterns, View B

Light coral denim

1. Nice fitting pattern right out of the envelope. Extended the center back by curving seam allowances across back waistband and waist to 1/4” at center back and back to 5/8” at side seam.

2. Pockets take a little bit of puzzling but worth the work.

3. The treatment of the elastic and back waistband at side seams makes for a bit of bulkiness.

4. Back waistband also got a bit bulky as the pattern is high waisted and there’s a lot to gather. I stitched the elastic down and pressed it to try to flatten.

5. View B is a cropped length and View A is longer.

6. Fun fall pant until socks are a necessity.

Eileen Fisher Dress Copy

Jalie Nicole Dress and Top

Ponte knit

1. Thought the EF dress would be a great fall wardrobe staple but as I looked at the pattern measurements it became clear that it was a very close fitting pattern. So I sized up. Kind of nice that the pattern pieces for bodice and skirt are two separate pieces and then joined when you lay them on fabric to cut out.

2. First version (in red) was more body skimming than I wanted so I dropped the armhole, added at side seams and used a larger sleeve.

3. Second version is closer to what I was looking for. The bust dart is quite big and ends up pokey but I will most likely be wearing the dress under a jacket like my Sienna Maker Jacket by Debbie 🙂 and I’m not going to stress about it. I already spent the better part of a day trying to remedy the problem and ended up extending the dart by 1/2” and giving it a good press!

October Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:

Thursday,October 8, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Saturday, October 10, 10:30 at Treadle , St. Paul

Tuesday, October 13, 10:30 at Treadle, St. Paul

Wardrobe Planning Class on Zoom

It’s too late to catch our Zoom Basic & Beyond Sergery class (it started today!!) but the Wardrobe Planning class is this Saturday, 8/22, from 9:30-12:30 on Zoom.

All you need is your jumble of ideas about what you need for fall and managing most of your life from home (!). A few pictures of things you’d like to make or fabrics that are asking to be sewn would be helpful too.

We’ll talk about planning and execution 🙂 and help you define a wardrobe capsule that works for your life.

I’m super excited because I finally created a My Body Model croquis so I can do some drawing for my fall wardrobe plan. Not sure it will be social media worthy but I’m hoping it will inspire me and maybe you!

Call Treadle at 651-698-9690 to register and Debbie and I will send you the link and see you on Zoom!

Always make new mistakes 🙂

More August Inspiration

Silk kimono New Look 6378
Bomber jacket KwikSew 2161
Bomber’s beautiful lining!
Sewing Workshop Eureka Top hack
Very successful Pietra Pants-Closet Core
Olive Top from Megan Nielsen
Rhapsody Blouse from Love Notions
McCalls 7409 jumpsuit
Grainline Studio Willow Tank plus 5 inches

August Club Photos

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club

August 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

New Look 6449, View C

Summer Floral Shirtdress:

New Look 6449, View C, Stretch Cotton.

1. This garment is similar to the shirtdress I made in June (McCalls 7351) but less shaping due to no waist definition. Also it was a better choice for the stretch cotton fabric.

2. I shortened length between shoulder and bust but not dress length.

3. I omitted the chest pocket – not a fan.

4. I made several construction changes: -added a contrast yoke facing using the hot dog roll method – a little tricky due to dress length – just go slow when turning to right side.

-Used Grainline neck stand and collar method rather than New Look’s method.

– Omitted cuff and tab on sleeve and made short sleeve length with roll up cuff.

– Used straight hem rather then curved as pattern shows.

5. Although I like the pockets, I am not a fan of floating pockets. I may topstitch them in place.

New Look 6449

Two More Backyard Tee-Shirt Dresses and New Look 6449:

Border print, Viscose Rayon, View C.

1. Cut cross grain to take advantage of border.

2. Scooped out front neckline- maybe too much!

3. Omitted cuff on sleeve.

Green Sleeveless, Cotton Jersey with 5% Spandex.

1. Cut cross grain for vertical stripe look.

2. Used chest pocket for hip pockets, the others were too large.

3. Not a fan of pattern armhole bands – would do differently next time……

There will not be a next time! This pattern has run its course for the season and I have used up my summer fabric so I am ready to move on.

Simplicity 1560

Rusty Floral Skirt:

Simplicity 1560, View B, Rayon Challis

I made this skirt to pattern. It is quick and easy . I like the flirty panels and no waistband with facing finish.

Kristin’s Garments:

Vogue 1701

Summer Woven Cowl Blouse

Vogue 1701, View B, Cotton Lawn

1. Cowl has an invisible zip which went in very well.

2. Gathering at neck.

3. Cuff is supposed to button with a notched gap hem on sleeve but I shortened the cuff instead and applied in the round. Ended up pleating cuff and sewing on buttons to make cuff smaller.

4. Blouse is wide at hem so no alterations for hips 🙂

5. After being so proud of my zip application, it is awkward to wear and the cowl will fit over my head without needing a zip!

6. I like the blouse-a little style and cool to wear-just won’t put in a zipper again!

McCalls 8042

Ruffles Everywhere!

McCall’s 8042, View A, Rayon Challis

1. The photo on the cover appealed to me so I gave it a try 🙂

2. Front is cut single layer with lots of stitching lines and cutting lines to transfer. I folded on center and got pretty close.

3. Sleeve ruffle ends up as part of armhole and doesn’t meet at underarm so a small piece of bias tape is added but it finished nicely, just puttsy.

4. I needed more room at hips so whacked it off, added more and ruffled it. A very gathered month 🙂

5. Both the sleeves and front/back are squares at the neck-no shaping in toward neck so when you pull in gathers at neck, there’s a lot of fabric. The height of the underarm is also determined by how much you pull up the neck. There were no suggestions as to how much it should be pulled in. I have used a stretchy cord so I can tie it where I want it and still get it over my head and not adjust every time.

6. The blouse is a keeper-the pattern is not 🙂

Merchant & Mills Factory Dress

Linen Work Dress

Merchant & Mills Factory Dress, Crinkly Linen

1. Skirt front has two small pleats and is wider than skirt back so added a bit to the back in the form of two small pleats.

2. Nice fit, loose fitting but with a bust dart. Sleeves fold up as per pattern. No fit adjustments.

3. Added contrast pocket and facing for fun.

4. Pattern drafting was great. Pattern directions more for a sewist with experience but definitely a keeper!

September Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:

*Second Tuesday date is changed due to labor Day weekend

Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Treadle

Tuesday, September 12, 10:30 at Treadle

Thursday, September 15, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

August Club is underway!

Tomorrow (Tuesday) is our second meeting and then we’ll also have Thursday morning at 10:30. We are meeting by Zoom again this month-you can register on the website by clicking on Fashion Sewing Club.

And here’s the Saturday sew and tell-

The ever popular Carolyn Pajamas!
Olive Blouse by Megan Nielsen
Simplicity 8798
Sports bra from Greenstyle Creations

Hope you’ll join us Tuesday or Thursday!!

July Sew and Tell

Lots of you seem to be starting to sew again-hope springs eternal or you can only sew so many masks?

Either way we are inspired by you!!

Molly Dresses from Made for Mermaids-easy to make fit and wear!
Butterick 5017
Cuff Top from Assembly Line Patterns
Sabalito Top from Itch to Stitch
Louise Cutting Anything But Ordinary hack and Loes Hinse Brussels Skirt
Matcha Top by Sew Liberated
Gallery Tunic and Dress by Liesl & Co
Fulton Sweater Jackie by Closet Core Patterns (name change)
Director’s Cut from Cutting Line Designs
Wiksten Women’s Shift Dress and Top
Recovering Grandma’s Sleeve Board and more!
Bomber muslin with more to come-
Paloma Blouse from Skinny Bitch Curvy Chicks
Burda 6610 and Jalie Eleonore Hack