July Sew and Tell

Lots of you seem to be starting to sew again-hope springs eternal or you can only sew so many masks?

Either way we are inspired by you!!

Molly Dresses from Made for Mermaids-easy to make fit and wear!
Butterick 5017
Cuff Top from Assembly Line Patterns
Sabalito Top from Itch to Stitch
Louise Cutting Anything But Ordinary hack and Loes Hinse Brussels Skirt
Matcha Top by Sew Liberated
Gallery Tunic and Dress by Liesl & Co
Fulton Sweater Jackie by Closet Core Patterns (name change)
Director’s Cut from Cutting Line Designs
Wiksten Women’s Shift Dress and Top
Recovering Grandma’s Sleeve Board and more!
Bomber muslin with more to come-
Paloma Blouse from Skinny Bitch Curvy Chicks
Burda 6610 and Jalie Eleonore Hack

July Fashion Sewing Club

Although we’d much rather like to see and be seen in person, the Zoom meetings have been a great substitute for getting together!

Debbie’s Garments:

Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress

Denim Blue Rayon Challis Shirtdress: Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress, View B.

1. Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust but did not shorten length.

2. I prefer to do the collar before side seams for easier fit adjustments so I changed order of construction and did the hot dog method for a contrast yoke facing.

3. I did not add the chest pocket and wished I would have added side seams pockets.

4. The button band instructions are confusing so be sure to read info on pattern piece thoroughly.

5. I feel the pattern runs big – I would go down a size if I make it again.

6. This is a fun pattern and I am finding loose dresses are so much more cool and fun to wear with the weather we are experiencing lately!

New Look 6560 and New Look 6449/Burda 7058

Blue Flora Wrap Top: New Look 6560, View C, 85% Cotton and 15% Linen Blend.

1. As always did standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.

2. The top does look short so I considered adding length but after reading many reviews (2019 pattern of the year on Pattern Review) I did not adjust length – good decision!

3. For security I added a snap at the center front and made serger loops for the tie belt.

4. This is a quick and easy make and perfect for keeping cool this summer.

Wide Cropped Denim Pants: New Look 6643 plus Burda 7058, Tencel.

1. To get the fit I used Burda from waist to crotch and for the look I used New Look from crotch to hem. I shortened the length by 4 inches in segments along the leg of the pants.

2. The Burda pants are a TNT pattern for me so it was fun to try out the wide leg from New Look and have success – these pants are cool and fun!

New Look 6449

Pineapple Tee-shirt Dress: New Look 6449, View A, Cotton Lycra

1. My first step was to make my petite adjustments from shoulder to bust. I did not change the length.

2. This tee -shirt dress is less fitted than McCalls 7432 – my make from June club- and that works for me. There are times when I want a little more shaping but lately I am enjoying loose fitting dresses. This pattern does the trick! It is a quick and easy make.

Kristin’s Garments:

Butterick 6330

Knit Jumpsuit: Butterick 6330, View E, Liverpool knit

1. Easy summer sewing-neck and armhole hems are just turned under. Seam down center back with slit opening to allow getting the jumpsuit on 🙂

2. I like this style pocket at it lays better than an in-seam pocket (IMHO).

3. The legs are wide but not overly. I cut off 7” because the “shorter” length felt more summery. Hoping that the fabric relaxes a bit so the leg doesn’t stand open at hem so much.

4. Waist casing-1” seam allowance at waist, trim bodice seam and then press pant seam toward bodice and topstitch to form casing. This is a nice look, it worked very well. Would be easy to tack on a bow as shown in my inspiration pic.

5. Fit adjustments-I sized down one size in the pant and ended up going down one more because I didn’t want all the ease in pattern. Also, added an inch to bodice length and took off an inch in pant waist length (height/crotch depth 🙂

New Look 6413

Woven Jumpsuit: New Look 6413, View A, Crinkle Linen

1. Fit-very good for overall length and waist location. Neck opening a bit large-I’d take a 1/4” seam next time for starters. Legs aren’t as tight as it shows on pattern cover-I liked how they turned out for me. Sleeves are to pattern for View A. Next time I will add a cuff to give a more stable hem that doesn’t stretch out-maybe washing will help?

2. Zipper opening at neck seemed to take some time but looked nice and was fairly easy in the end. A good sewing friend advised putting the zip in the neck and that probably was a better option.

3. Waist casing-pattern called for 5/8” seam allowance and then stitching seam allowance at edge and inserting elastic. We usually cringe at this when our young students encounter this in a pattern but the linen held together and I serged the raw edges together (not a bad idea to serge edges before sewing if they are raveling) and inserted elastic. I tried the topstitch method as above but in the end did not because it seemed to “blouse” better without it.

4. I didn’t include in-seam pockets because of added bulk and it also made the waist casing smoother.

5. Legs are fun rolled up at ankles too!

Jalie Pull-on Pants and Shorts

Wavy Stripe Shorts: Jalie Pull-on Pants and Shorts, No stretch woven

1. Great go-to pull on pant with just the right amount of ease-for me 🙂 Great waist shaping.

2. Made to pattern with required 3/8” seam allowances.

3. Waist casing is a facing that is sewn on and turned to inside. I especially like the shaping of the waist-not straight across but higher in back and lower (but not too low) in back.

Burda 6952

Woven Stripe Shorts: Burda 6952, View B

1. This is a plus size pattern that I wanted to try to see if fit is any different than regular Burda patterns. Burda is still the bomb for pants fit, in my book.

2. The two views are the same except View A has darts, a zip and waistband. I was going to try adding the contour fitted waist band to the gathered version but there was a gap between idea/cutting out and execution-so it’s a narrower folded waistband as called for in View B.

Hello, Summer!!!

August Fashion Sewing Club via Zoom or at:

Saturday, August 8,10:30 at Treadle

Tuesday, August 11, 10:30 at Treadle

Thursday, August 13, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

June 2020 Fashion Sewing Club

When Debbie sent her photos in her back yard I had to take my photos in my surroundings-down on the farm 🙂 Hope you’ve been finding your happy place wherever you are-we hope to have some live meetings next month. Will keep you posted!

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club

June 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

McCalls 7432, View E

Floral Tee Shirt Dress: McCalls 7432, View E

Art Gallery cotton spandex

1. Did my standard petite adjustments and breezed through this quickly. Fun make that I will wear often.

Poppy Backyard Tunic/Dress: Closet Case Cielo, View C

Textured Cotton.

1. Did my standard petite adjustments.

2. Changed order of construction to adjust fit if necessary.

3. Stabilized pocket seams.

4. Serged bias neck edge finish.

5. This is a fun make, I like the back shoulder yoke detail and of course the pockets.

Floral/Fleece Contrast Raglan Tee: Jalie Marie Claude

Floral from Tee dress and fleece from my stash.

1. I loved the combination of the two fabrics but didn’t have quite enough for the back.

I didn’t want to give-up so after looking at some RTW I was able to add some exit interest.

2. Using my scraps I cut apart the back pattern piece at my waist and cut two lower pieces to create faux button placket. I did add and stabilize seam allowances .

3. Placket edges are clean finished before stitching to upper back.

4. Tee is completed as pattern directs with the addition of buttons to the exit interest.

Purple Cut Apart Tee: McCalls 6964

Avalon Jersey, 94% cotton, 6% elastic.

1. Again, checking out RTW, I saw this tee and knew I had some fabric in my stash that would step up a basic tee and fabric.

2. Using my favorite tee shirt pattern as my base I cut apart the front pattern to form the design lines and added seam allowances.

3. Before constructing the tee, I added fusible interfacing to seam lines and clean finished placket edges. Three buttons were added for a little more interest.

Kristin’s Garments:

Camber Set #2-Top: Merchant & Mills Camber Set

Rayon fabric

1. Executed changes from last month-added to bottom edge of back yoke for a rounded back adjustment. I tried to cut one yoke on the bias so the crooked lines wouldn’t but my cutting was way off and then I sewed the bias cut yoke to the wrong side and it didn’t work anyway!!

2. Still love the fit of it-sleeves and all.

3. I made the neck band correctly this time and like the looks of it.

Scout Tee Grainline Studios

Cool Summer Woven Tee: Scout Tee-Grainline Studios

Rayon fabric

1. Executed changes from last month-sleeves and armholes and had to grab this out of the closet as I ran out of summer things to wear. Love the cool draping of the fabric-cooler than a knit tee! And quick to sew-no bust dart!

Willow Tank Grainline Studios

Cool Summer Woven Tank: Willow Tee-Grainline Studios

Cotton fabric

1. Very good fit and nice coverage at neck and armholes.

2. Serged the bias edges on, turned to wrong side and topstitched instead of their method.

3. Nice deep hem.

One More Woven Tee: Coram Top & Dress, Allie Olson Patterns

Coram Top Allie Olson

Cotton fabric

1. Saw this at Puyallup and had to give it a try. Raglan sleeves with a dolphin hem-love that name.

2. Pattern sewed up well-like the hem.

3. Neck band is a bias strip and sewn on like a knit band-maybe a bit wide but laid down pretty nicely.

Now Shirt/Zen Collar Sewing Workshop

Lace Jacket: Now Shirt from Sewing Workshop

Novelty lace-colored on right side, white on wrong side

1. I may have overcooked this one! Very much attracted to the colors of the lace but the white backing is high contrast. And the seam allowances stretched out so most were bound with bias binding.

2. Cut 2” folded strips for front placket (pattern has simple, folded placket), hems and sleeves. I intended to use these folded but a white seam allowance still showed through so I encased some of them.

3. Swapped the “Now” collar out and used the “Zen” as it was shorter and stood up. Not sure how it will “wear”.

4. Turned in to a long sew. I have a fair amount left so will most likely underline next time but really wanted the airiness of the lace to be a feature of the jacket.

July Fashion Sewing Club Dates

Thursday, July 9, 10:30 at SR Harris – maybe!

Saturday, July 11, 10:30 , Treadle -maybe!

Tuesday, July 14, 10:30, Treadle – maybe!

June’s Tuesday Inspiration

Great meeting-thanks to all who attended!

Thursday and Saturday meetings are coming up tomorrow at 10:30. Go to “Fashion Sewing Club” on the website menu and register to receive the link to the Zoom meeting and the Club sheets.

Some info to pass on:

Craftsy/Bluprint is going out of business. Try this (allavsoft.com) for saving all of your classes before they go away.

SBCC (Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick) patterns are made for petites and more. Paulette made the Paloma Blouse right out of the package and it fit! They are sold on patternreview.com and you can choose the print option as it is a pdf only pattern. I found several I’d like to try because even though I am regular height, I often “petite” patterns to bring up the underarms and waist. I’ll have to lengthen the skirt 🙂 There are a few average height patterns also.

Treadle will honor its 10% off if you attend Fashion Sewing Club, good through June 20. Here’s a pic of their latest arrivals. There are also new rayon batiks.

New arrivals at Treadle!

SR Harris is offering to let us in at 9 am for Fashion Sewing Club next month so we can meet and shop and not keep other customers away-their current limit is 15 people. We’ll let you know if it can be done!

We’re meeting for Sew Social at First Sewing tomorrow! First time in a long time-looking forward to getting together. There will be a limit of 8 people. You can email/text/call if interested in coming.

Linda Lee of Sewing Workshop is hosting some great videos each Tuesday at 11 am but you can watch them anytime-check her website/Facebook/YouTube.

And now for the Sew and Tell-you can send your photos before the meeting and we can all see them on Zoom.

Reminiscent of Gotham City-men’s shirt made by Bernie
Great basic Remy Raglan from Sew House Seven
Quick to sew and comfortable to wear
Favorite Indygo Junction Crossback apron
Merchant & Mills Top 64

June Fashion Sewing Club starts tomorrow!

Covid isn’t going to let us gather this month either!! But we’ve been having fun via Zoom so we’ll meet on Zoom again this month-

Tuesday, June 9,

Thursday, June 11

Saturday, June 13

All meetings begin at 10:30 am

This month we are asking that you register and pay ($10) through our website. Then a Zoom meeting link will be sent to you along with the Club sheets. Just a debit or credit card is all you need. Here is the link or you can click on “Fashion Sewing Club” in the menu at the top of the website.

You may attend as many sessions of the month’s meetings as you want and still just pay for one meeting. Your first meeting is free.

Sewing up a storm!?!?

May 2020 Fashion Sewing Club

Another great month of meeting via Zoom! We had almost 60 people attending over the three sessions. We saw many indie patterns and always get the question about copy shop printing (the big box stores can be very expensive and knowledge varies from employee to employee) so here are are 3 best ways of getting those Pdf patterns printed on something other than 8.5”x11” sheets that you have to tape together:

1. Look for the pattern on patternreview.com. If they sell it, they will give you the option to choose having it printed for about $5 when you add it to your cart.

2. Go to pdfplotting.com and send your files to them. It takes a few minutes to figure out how to navigate in your computer and files but the price and convenience are worth it. And you can call and talk to Keith and he will help you out. Shipping time is usually a few days.

3. Thomas Printworks, 801 2nd Ave. N., Mpls.-you’ll have to go pick it up but turnaround is quick and price is great. The online form can be hard to figure out so just call 612-374-1120 and get the email address to send your files to.

And now for Debbie and Kristin’s garments for May-we hope we can actually see some of you in June as stores are opening up but we will definitely be meeting by Zoom. We’ll keep you posted.

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club

May 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

La Paz Jacket by Itch to Stitch

Navy Knit Blazer:

La Paz Jacket by Itch to Stitch

65% Rayon, 32%nylon and 5% spandex Ponte

1. I made a muslin first to determine fit changes and there were several- shortened between shoulder and bust, shortened jacket and sleeve length, adjusted for narrow shoulder and went down a size – I feel the pattern runs big.

2. This is PDF pattern which I try to avoid because I don’t like to trace and to determine lines and marks to follow is difficult.

3. The directions are excellent and a website is given to follow for welt pockets which is also very well done. The collar instructions are more difficult than necessary though.

4. The jacket has a back  lining shield which is very nice. However, I wish I would have drafted a lining pattern. It would have been easier and given a cleaner inside look.

McCalls 7351

Floral Chambray Shirt Dress:

McCalls 7351, View B with straight hem

100% cotton

1. Did my standard fitting adjustments and lowered front bust dart, added 1/2” to waist length and 1 inch to hem.

2. I changed order of construction, did a burrito roll for yoke and stitched rs of button band to ws of dress front for a clean finish  and no slip stitching.

3. I added a fabric tie belt to copy what I am seeing in RTW.

New Look 6439

Coral Floral Tunic:  

New Look 6439, View D  with View C neckline

Rayon Jersey

1. This is  a TNT pattern. This is my summer version. Winter is the only season I haven’t covered and I don’t want to think about that for a lonnnnng time!

McCalls 6964

Cut Apart T-Shirt:  

McCalls 6964

Green and navy solid rayon jersey, print cotton lycra from Art Gallery.

Saw this tee in a catalog and thought it would be cute and use up some of my scraps.

Kristin’s Garments

Palisade Pants
Pocket detail

Palisade Pants by Papercut Patterns

Chambray stripe

1. Pattern has a nice flat front waist and fun pockets-one pattern piece is heart shaped.

2. Lots of layers in pocket hide hip issues.

3. For my figure, the front waist was high but not a deal breaker.

4. Good instructions, fun to see how a stripe worked out with the pocket pieces.

Hudson Pant by True/Bias

Knit Joggers

Hudson Pant by True/Bias

Rayon ponte, very soft and stretchy

1. Omitted the pockets for the sake of bulk.

2. Pattern advises making a size up if you don’t want a tight fit so I did that.

3. Made waist band smaller by 2” to reduce bulk.

Camber Set
Added to the back yoke and back for rounded shoulder adjustment-you can see it very well with the patchwork pieces

SUMMER (?!) Dress

Camber Set by Merchant & Mills

Patchwork plaid cotton

1. Pattern features a bust dart that borders on a French dart.

2. Needed to do a bit of work on sleeves as they were quite slim but the armhole was on the larger size.

3. Also made the Scout Tee by Grainline and that had a flat sleeve with a close fitting armhole-so I went with Camber to get the yoke (made a rounded back adjustment easier) and used armhole from Scout.

4. Added back shaping darts.

June Fashion Sewing Club

Tuesday, June 9, 10:30, Treadle

Thursday, June 12, SR Harris, Burnsville

Saturday, June 14, Treadle

Saturday’s Sew and Tell

It’s been fun seeing new faces along with our regulars! And the new folks are jumping right in with garments they’ve sewn. Here are the highlights-

Several variations on Silhouette Patterns #719 DVF’s Blouse in a Liberty of London fabric-the courage it took to cut into the fabric! Yeah!!
V9057 for Mother’s Day gift
“Corona Virus Stash Buster Jacket” McCall’s 7100
Plain old pj pant (Simplicity 1520) looks awesome in a fun print with an added paper bag waist!
Talvikki Sweater by Named Patterns
Knit top from Love Notions may also be made in a woven
Janet Pray’s Create Your Own Sloper Tee
Lots of work goes into a pair of jeans-these are the Cashmerette Ames version
Beginnings of a summer wardrobe capsule in denim seersucker
Top is McCalls 7784 View C with great use of the fabric’s selvage
Shorts are Burda 6927 View A
Mimi G. Simplicity 8927 top and skirt in same fabric as above
Notice the skirt button opening is intentionally off center-Katie isn’t sure if that’s a positive or negative 🙂
Seamwork York Shirt in a woven

Thursday’s Club Inspiration

Another fun Zoom meeting with new faces and familiar faces-so much fun to connect and see what everyone’s been doing!

Last chance to join in is Saturday at 10:30-email me (materialgirlsewing@gmail.com) for link or go to calendar on website and click on link under Fashion Sewing Club event.

A new face for us in her cotton Vogue dress-side zip and sleeve length added.
Cashmerette Tobin Sweater
Vogue 7954 men’s shirt in handkerchief linen
Sleeve detail
Jalie Nursing Tee and McCalls 6996 Cardigan
McCalls 6964

Tuesday’s Club Photos

We had a great turn out with 26 people hopping on to our Zoom meeting-froze my iPad but the show went on!

Here are photos from sew and tell. It’s never too late to send photos-I will keep adding them to this blogpost.

Next meeting is tomorrow-Thursday-at 10:30. Anyone wishing to attend can email me for Club sheets in advance so you can print them out if you want.

The meeting link can be accessed here in the Calendar or email me and I can send it to you.

Thanks for staying connected with us!

Inspired by Artful Home (pic on door) using Vogue 9057 Marcy Tilton tee paired with Sewing Workshop Picasso Pant in wool seersucker from Treadle
Butterick 6633 -wonderful Katherine Tilton pattern in a knit from SR Harris with RTW leggings
Butterick 6026 in a beautiful but challenging linen print
Same blouse in a cotton print
Truly a TNT (tried and true) blouse and now you can see the distinctive darts of this Katherine Tilton wardrobe staple
Sew House 7 view 2 with sleeve pleats added and Textile Studio Loes Hinse Brussels Skirt
KwikSew 3036 view D
Hoping for summer with McCalls 8067 above and below
Jalie 3352 Dolman Tee
See pattern envelope below
Shown in gray above
Pattern shown below
Shown in navy above

May Fashion Sewing Club Dates

It’s that time again! Circumstances warranted a change in dates (just the Saturday one) so we’ll be meeting via Zoom on Tuesday, May 12, Thursday, May 14 and Saturday, May 16, all at 10:30 am.

Go to our calendar page for the links to the Zoom meeting. When it’s time for the meeting, just click on the link and you will go into a waiting room and be let in. It worked very well last month with 38 total attendees. If you’d like, send me an email or text and I can send a separate link directly to you.

You can wear your garment for show and tell or email me a pic and I will have it ready to put up during the meeting.

Happy Mother’s Day!!

Flowers or FABRIC!!