Debbie stepped back into her hosting shoes for April meetings so I could be with grandkids as they welcomed their new sister into the family-
But let’s move on to your garments!!
April Garment Sewing-Wednesday and Thursday Edit
Babylock Coverstitch For Sale
My just-serviced coverstitch machine is for sale-$300. I have more machines than I need 🙂 This is my favorite stand alone coverstitch. Babylock BLCS-2.
I’m at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley today (Thursday, April 16) and would love to leave it here with a new owner.
Text if you are interested 952-201-3863 and I will respond as I can-class at 1 pm.
March Garments-
Kay’s Garments:
Magna Pants from “Ahead of the Curve”
Linen/cotton blend
This is a printed pattern if you have a copy of the book. If you have a digital copy of the book, the pattern is available as a PDF.
I made the version which does not require an optional side zipper.
The pattern is only available in US sizes 12-32. Cashmerette now does all patterns in a full size range from US sizes 0-32.
This is a pattern for woven fabrics and has a flat front waistband and an elastic back which I prefer rather than one that is all elastic. The back darts also provide me with a better fit.
Maker’s Atelier’s Flared Shirt, PDF (AO) (photo above)
Available through The Fold Line
Linen, cotton Blend from Style Makers
This shirt is similar to the popular Donny Shirt. I like this British Designer.
The collar is flat and does not have a band which I like.
I made the long sleeve version but am also thinking that I would like the sleeveless version for spring and summer. It has a nice flared shape.
I made the asymmetrical version with zippered side pockets.
The scuba fabric was great to work with and this is a nice transitional piece as the weather changes.
I found that the directions while good could have been clearer especially when dealing with inserting the pocket zippers.
I made the pattern to size and was very happy with the fit.
Closet Core Sleep Mask -matching fabric-free pattern
I wanted a pair of spring pajamas but decided to make the long sleeved top and long pants as I get cold even in the summer!
I did not use the pattern directions for attaching the bindings. I used 2” wide strips of knit, folded them in half and serged them to the edges.
I made the pattern to size and it fits but I like my jammies to be loose and comfy and these are more form fitting. I should have looked more carefully at the pattern and would have noticed that the bottoms fit more like leggings than lounge pants. So while the pattern is cute, I would recommend sizing up one or maybe even 2 sizes for the bottoms. I would also shorten them.
The sleep mask is fun and easy to make and a different type from the typical sleep mask. I liked that it didn’t have an elastic band around your head. Just a fun little addition.
Column 1: Top-Layer-Bottom Column 2: Bottom-Top-Layer Column 3: Layer-Bottom-Top
Kay gave us some very on-trend tips on packing with the sudoku method. It’s a great way to find holes in your wardrobe too! Have fun on a snowy afternoon and see how many you have in your wardrobe!
Kristin’s Garments
A warmer, more casual jacket was needed in the wardrobe so here it is! My plan was to make the first jacket from the quilted lining, make the outside jacket, shorten the lining at the hem and stitch to the outer jacket lining, stitch the lining to the outer jacket at the neck edge (with the collar sandwiched between), pop on the plackets and deal with the sleeve edges as it happened.
For once, I pretty much followed the plan! I added a center back upper and lower seam to accommodate my fabric mash up. The lining seams were zigzagged open to keep them flat.
The center front facings were trimmed off to become the plackets. I reshaped the back facing for hanger appeal.
Welt pockets were added using Sew Anastasia’s technique on YouTube (I used the same technique on the sweater jacket). The placket ends were applied using this technique (https://fb.watch/FN4vzhKzIM/?fs=e) It’s Kenneth King slowing down a fast recording of ryliss_sewinganddesign-school doing the same thing. It works great on waistbands and worked really well on the hem end of placket but not on the collar end (collar is in the way).
Another fun drafting exercise from this company. I made two last month. The photo (again) drew me in. I am happy with the results and enjoyed the sew.
Only one collar is cut out and the neck facing incorporates the upper collar. That’s cool! Beautiful pleats in the sleeve. Used a quick Workroom Social technique YouTube tutorial for sleeve plackets.
I got so excited about my two neck buttons that I forgot about the cuff buttons so did snaps 🙂
This is a medium sized, lined bag with nice pocket assortment and optional zip closure. The laminated canvas was fairly easy to sew on-the walking foot was my tool of choice.
I put in the top zip. I also used a zipper foot to enclose clothesline rope inside the handle to give it some heft. The pattern and instructions were great but not quite the perfect bag yet..
April Garment Sewing Group Meetings-Cohost: Barb Prigge
Wednesday, April 8, Sew Inviting, St. Paul
Thursday, April 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and Fabric Swap
Saturday, April 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
March Madness :)
(Some of my grandkids are super-into basketball, but I digress)
Our pre-blizzard March Garment Sewing Group meetings were amazing!! Kay was the cohost and had a great time (her words). We started out Wednesday at Lakes Makerie-
Then Thursday was at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley-
Saturday’s meeting was at Open Studio Sewing in St. Louis Park-
And we all went home and waited for the blizzard! Whew! Dodged that bullet!
Kristin and Kay’s garments are in a separate post-
February Photos
Another month and you didn’t disappoint! Here are Saturday and Thursday meetings-
More from February
More great makes— keep scrolling for photos from Brenda and Kristin.
February Garment Sewing Group
Cohost: Brenda
1. I loved this tee when Kristin made it a few months ago and I have seen several versions of it in ready to wear.
2. This is the second time I have made this. The first time I only had enough fabric for the body so I used some scraps for the hem facing and neckband. I really liked the contrast and I think it adds balance to the look. I also like the hem facing, I think it elevates the shirt. If you omit it make sure you add hem allowance.
Megan Nielsen Ash Jean
Cloud Dancer stretch twill-Yes I love the color of the year!
1. This is a powerhouse pattern. There are 4 views with extended sizing available. The wide leg is not overly wide and works well for a cropped style.
2. I followed the pattern’s excellent instructions for constructing the pants. To fit the pants I used the book Fit and Sew Custom Jeans by Helen Bartley.
3. I completely assembled the front and back-zipper pocket & yoke. Then I machine baste the back, inseam and sides together and try them on. Since I start with my hip measurement I often have to take some in at the yoke
I do this every single time because different fabrics fit differently. I used a fusible interfacing in the waistband. I may try the Ban-Rol next time.
4.I’m embracing the handmade buttonhole! I think it is the best result for a fish eye. This is the first time I’ve had a water soluble pen leave a mark 😦
1. Version 4 is my favorite look. Using a fabric with good drape I think is key.
2. I love the directions for inserting the v neck. It always turns out great. I also cut the neckband on the bias for added interest.
3. The split hem is beautifully drafted with mitered corners. I follow the directions and zigzag stitch the hem. It’s easy and I’m always happy with the results.
1. The construction of this dress is really fun. The two piece raglan sleeve fits the shoulder really nice. There is an easy fold over placket, wide cuff and the collar encases the neckline.
2. They do not request any interfacing. I interfaced all the usual suspects: cuffs, collars, front plackets and top of pocket.
3. This fabric is really drapey, the hem hangs a little wavy and the breast pocket drops. I don’t think it affects the wearability. I also stitched the side pockets down.
1. This dress pattern was inspired by the Toteme slouch waist dress $880. I made mine for under $50. It also comes in extended sizes.
2. The design is very clever. There are two front and two back pieces. Each piece is one continuous cut, top to bottom. The top lays at a slight angle and is cut on the bias. The skirt is cut on the straight-of-grain. This causes the top to drape with a really cool slouch effect.
3. I chose the size based on my hip measurement. The finished bust measurements seem huge. This is due to the cut on-sleeve. Don’t be tempted to grade the top down.
Kristin’s Garments
Somebody said I had to get this pattern and I’d make lots of them. So I did but I won’t 🙂
It’s a fine pattern-similar to the Hudson Top from Sewing Workshop.
I added a pleat to the back to make it bigger at hips. Then the neck seemed big as I wanted to be able to wear it under a jacket/sweater so I took the neckband off and added a pleat to the front. I like it with my changes. Also happy with fabric choice.
The model hooked me on this pattern! The heavy knit I used could have been loftier but I like how it turned out. Neck/collar is good and lays nicely although it won’t stand up like the sample.
There is a great video tutorial on YouTube for making the sweater. I hand stitched the “rolled hem” on the collar. Looks nice but you have to get close 🙂
They don’t use the serger much but the inset neck is better done with the sewing machine.
I took two inches out of the width of the sleeve at the wrist.
Elsbeth (from TV series) called to me for this sweater and fabric (the bow is hard to see in this print)!! It was a fun make-again, a wonderful video tutorial made it easy to figure out. Many numbered seams as in Burda patterns but that made things clear. Underarm gussets were challenging but that’s what gussets are-IMHO.
Well drafted, all the notches matched. Rather funky but I like it. Maybe just a one trick pony but I will definitely wear it!
I swapped their single layer cuff (it was also very wide!) for the deep cuff from Toaster Sweater Version 1. It looks a lot better. There was a fair amount of hand stitching recommended-I used my machines.
March-cohost Kay Dole
Wednesday, March 11, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Thursday, March 12, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, March 14, Open Studio, Mpls.
February Garment Sewing Group Week!
Ready for more inspiring sewing? The weather is better and spring is closer…hope to see you:
February-cohost Brenda Czarnik
Wednesday, February 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, February 12, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, February 14, Sew Inviting, St. Paul
Also, we have a Basic Sergery class, Thursday, Feb. 19, 10-12 pm at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Call the store to register-952-431-6688. The classes at other locations have mostly sold out.
I needed a little inspiration last week so I ducked in to the Red Wing Depot Art Gallery-where do you go to be inspired?
Sew on!!
January Wrap-up
Our Lakes Makerie meeting was full of great makes! Keep scrolling down for Debbie and Kristin’s garments-
January Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
I am a fan of toppers and the Metra Blazer is a TNT for me.
On this version I lined the sleeves with a stretch crepe and finished seams with a Hong Kong finish.
The front facing connects to the side panel and creates the pocket bag and gives the jacket some structure and stabilization to compensate for soft corduroy.
I find this topper versatile, an easy and quick make and a great addition to my wardrobe.
I mistakenly thought this was going to be an easy make but became a challenge mainly due to some decisions I made.
I had a limited amount of fabric to use so that made matching plaid a challenge.
The first fit adjustment I made was adding 3” of length to jacket – Not a fan of cropped jackets-and shortened the sleeves 2 inches. I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
The pattern is unlined. I lined the sleeves and underlined the jacket body. I wish I would have made a lining for the jacket and a back neck facing to connect the center front facings. Not having that back neck facing piece means the shoulder of the front facings is slipped stitched – Not a fan of that procedure!
I lined the pockets, repositioned them and topstitched them onto the jacket. Not sure that was the best idea.
The pattern calls for 2 buttons – I added a third.
The jacket hem is a contour facing. A nice finish to the jacket.
For fit I did my standard adjustments. Then considering this make a wearable muslin I did a lot of machine basting as much as possible to get a good fit. I feel the shirt runs large and/or is oversized-I would go down a size next time.
This is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there are a good construction tips such as a painless placket, front “yoke” and neck binding finish.
I like to use the burrito method for yokes – the pattern does not use that method but I did. Unfortunately once again since there is no back neck facing I have the shoulder section of the front facings needing to be slip-stitched to keep them from floating.
This is a good pattern in that it makes up quickly, it has good construction tips and variations for sleeves and hems.
Kristin’s Garments:
After an exhaustive search for a pattern that had the same neckline, I chose Vogue 1648 because of the funnel neck. Surprising how hard it is to find this particular neck style. I found another pattern “MonoPattern Oversized Coat” but it was also a funnel neck even tho the photo didn’t show it that way.
The bell sleeve is from Burda 6059-I shortened it (maybe just a bit too much) but if too long the bell becomes a blob 🙂 Hem is the casing for elastic.
The Vogue pattern has a welt pocket so I gave it a try-pretty small and weird. Went to YouTube and watched Sew Anastasia-How to Sew a Welt Pocket and made that work. Not pretty on the inside but I am happy with results.
I cut down the neck, especially at center front, pretty much eliminated the back curved hem and eliminated the back pleat.
Weirdest thing is discovering -almost at the end of construction-that the fabric has a nap and is probably directional but you really have to look!
Had to give it a try and this stripe called out to me 🙂
Added 3/4” at center fold (1.25” total) and cut apart, serged, folded and lapped. Learned how to sew buttons on with machine.
Added buttons to cuffs. Neck was tricky because of the back neck section.
Handy trick when beginning coverstitch at an edge: stitch on Solvy to get started, then on to fabric. Solvy tears away quickly and you can knot the end and hide it.
I’ve made this pattern before but needed to try again as the others turned out too big. I wanted a smooth front (as opposed to a zip and button) for wearing under the stripe turtle.
The side zip has a flap that makes it classy. I used woven interfacing for the waistband-convenient in a pre-cut width.
These pants are keepers and I love the wide wale cord for winter.
February 2026 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, Feb. 11, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, Feb. 12, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, Feb. 14, 10:30 at Sew Inviting, St. Paul
Other dates for your calendar:
Sew Inviting Sale-Semi annual sale going on now!
Frocktails-April 11- “Making Through the Decades” Tickets on sale 1/11
H+H Americas Fiber and Craft Festival: April 30-May 3, Chicago area
January Sew Far-
You have one more chance to show us your stuff!! Wednesday, January 14, at Lakes Makerie will be the last of the January meetings-hope you can make it!!
Here is what we’ve seen so far 🙂
Serger for Sale! SOLD!!
Need a last minute Christmas present (for yourself :)?
This is a combination Babylock Evolution which means it will do 4 thread overlock and coverstitch. It’s a few models back and not as large as the current models. Only been used about 6 times. $900 or best offer. Please email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com if interested.
Material Girl Sewing 