Serger Class starts next week AND June GSG

Our next Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts next Thursday, June 30 at 10 am at First Sewing, 494 and Penn! The class continues July 7 and 21. Go to “Classes at First Sewing” in the menu bar to register.

June Garment Sewing Group:

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy Jacket, Burda 6760, View C, Silk Matka and Rayon Crepe Lining

1. This is an unlined jacket so my first step was to draft lining pattern pieces. The sleeves are underlined. Also a dart in the sleeve creates a 2 piece look which I like. It eliminates a lot of bulk.

2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment but did not shorten length because it is a cropped style.

3. Due to the texture of the main fabric I only interfaced the under collar.

4. Also due to the texture of the fabric I did not top stitch.

5. This pattern is from 2015. It was a fun make and I also decreased my pattern collection.

Coral with Navy Dot Classic Blouse, NewLook 6698, View B, Cotton Sateen

1. As always I did my petite adjustments but did not shorten the hem length – this is a crop length shirt.

2. The pattern envelope gives yardage for a skirt. There is no skirt in this pattern – maybe a typing error. That should have been my first clue that the pattern had some flaws.

3. The neckband is too short for neck and the directions for collar insertion are poor.

4. The only feature different from my TNT blouse pattern is the “cuff”.

Navy Gingham Pants, Burda 7062, Gingham with Bemberg lining, see photo above

1. This pattern is from 2013 and has been updated in the catalog.

2. I eliminated the side slits and added a lining.

3. This is a TNT for me and it will stay in pattern collection.

Coral “Scraps” Blouse

Coral “Scraps” Blouse, Liesl+ Co Geneva V-Neck Blouse, Cotton lawn, stripe and sateen

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and removed 2 inches from the length. I also softened the shirt tail hem and removed length from there as well. The designer is tall!

2. I raised the v-neck 1 inch.

3. I changed construction steps because I wanted to have the neck band on the rs of the blouse. I used the shorten/lengthen line to determine the the length of back top and bottom.

4. I chose this pattern because of the lantern sleeve. I am not fan of v-neck blouses but I thought I would give it a try anyway.

5. It was a fun make even though the construction techniques are kind of putsy and 1/2 seam allowances are used – WHY?!

Kristin’s Garments:

Summer Jacket/The Fold London, Vogue 1648, Stretch woven blend

1. Pattern includes lining but didn’t want to lose the stretch of fabric so just used facings.

2. Very large pleat in back was topstitched through all layers-directions had it hanging loose-I wanted a bit more of a “yoke line” to copy garment.

3. Center front overlap was eliminated so no closure. Corners at collar were rounded.

4. This pattern was previously made in fleece. Fits surprisingly well (no forward shoulder needed, bust dart in proper place, sleeve is great.

Brick Summer Pants, Vanessa Fluid Pants/Jalie Patterns, Silk blend fabric? See photo below

1. Added 3” to length-omitted cuff.

2. Darts are extended 2” for a lower seat 🙂

3. Waist band is made into one continuous strip eliminating seams and tie.

4. Great pants pattern-TNT!

Woven Summer Blouse, Harmony Blouse/Love Notions, Rayon challis and Jalie Vanessa Pants

1. Made to pattern as the hip area is already wider.

2. Neck binding is supposed to be turned all the way under, I like wrapping the serged edge.

3. Center back seam has waist shaping but the opening isn’t necessary to get blouse on. I just sewed the button on permanently.

4. Several sleeve variations. Great summer woven tee with a dart.

5. Great fit for my body!

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck
Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Tomato rayon knit vee neck

1. Shortened length 2”.

2. Both necklines are great depthwise. Vee is quite pointed and the rayon fabric didn’t help. Pattern also includes a scoop neck and all sleeve length variations.

3. Definitely a TNT!

July 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, July 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, July 13, 10:30 Lakes Makerie, Mpls

Thursday, July 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap 🙂

May Garments

Squeaking in on the last day of May…for June meeting dates and locations, please scroll to end of post-

Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy/Teal Tie Knit Dress, New Look 6650, Cotton jersey

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the hem length by 2 inches – whoops – it feels a little too short.

2. I did a serged “bias” neck finish instead of turning under neck edge twice and topstitching as pattern directs. I also eliminated the side slit.

3. Fun, easy make that can be casual or dressy, depending on fabric choice.

Navy Stripe Dolman Tee, Jalie 3352, Rayon jersey

1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as shortening hem length.

2. I added a neckband rather than folding neck edge to ws and top stitching. Also added cuffs to again avoid turning hem to inside and topstitching.

3. This is a TNT pattern for me. I like how it fits, there are several looks and it is a great scrap buster.

Navy Print Quilted Cardigan, New Look 6351 hack, Liberty of London with cotton flannel batting, rayon crepe lining

1. I tried to copy a RTW garment and did fairly well except I wish I would have used very light batting instead of flannel. It is not as soft as RTW garment.

2. Besides my standard petite adjustments I straightened the CF so the fronts meet, not overlap.

3. For construction: stitch side fronts to fronts for main fabric, batting and lining. Follow same procedure for CB seam. Quilt front, back and sleeves using walking foot and 1/2 vertical rows at 3.0 stitch length.  Jacket is then serged together.

4. I added a contrast band for CF and hemmed sleeves and bottom with bias strip bands.

5. The RTW version added buttons and buttonholes – I did not.

6. It was a good project to work on during our cold spring but I am done with quilting for a long time now!

Coral Side Button Tee, Simplicity 9229 hack to copy Love Notions Lincoln Top, Cotton modal

1. To redesign the pattern I eliminated the side seam and made the back and wedge one piece allowing for sa and placket folds. Later I added a placket to button edge because my math was incorrect! A two inch length of fabric was pressed wst and serged to rst of shirt back side seam.

2. On the side fronts I added 1 inch plus sa for button hole placket.  The placket edges were clean finished, pressed to ws and top stitched.

3. The back hem is longer by one inch.

4. I did make buttonholes but really not necessary.

5. This became more of a chore than I planned on and I realize now I should have just bought the Love Notions pattern! 

Kristin’s Garments

Woven Tee, Coram Top/Allie Olson, Rayon woven
Debbie’s Coram in cotton shirting

1. Quick to sew with raglan sleeves. Bust dart is a plus.

2. As with most popular patterns of this type, the neck is on the larger end of spectrum.

3. I took it in 3/8” along shoulder dart and through sleeve as it seemed a bit low under arms also.

4. Neck band also seemed long but bias binding can stretch when pressed so follow pattern directions and adjust as needed.

Summer Dress, Sandra Betzina Vogue 1530 OOP View A, Scuba knit/wool knit

1. Eliminated center back seam. Added back darts.

2. Eliminated skirt lining because scuba hung nicely without. Turned under underarms and stitched to make up for lack of lining.

3. Like the fit and the way it went together.

4. Omitted the trim down the side seams as wool knit was thick.

5. Disappointed with fusible interfacing results around decorative neck hole. Glued too well.

6. Hole in front yoke fussy but a fun detail.

Willow Wrap Dress/Love Notions, Rayon knit

1. Made the first version in a medium and that was too small so tried XL and that was much better except bust was big so took shaping out of front bust area.

2. Tried elastic trim for neckline (floral version) and band per pattern (solid version).

3. Lots of options-higher neckline and lower (solid knit was in between), pleated front and plain front, 3 sleeve lengths and a children’s version (separate purchase).

June 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday, June 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

Saturday, June 11, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Classes and Saturday’s Pics

We have two classes starting this week-

Serge (or Sew) This: Woven Tee: Wed., May 18, 25, June 2, 10:30-12:30, Treadle

Serge (or Sew) This: Core Pattern Tee: Thurs., May 19, 26, June 2, 10-12, First Sewing

Register online at Treadle for Treadle class and Material Girls for First Sewing class. Email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com for questions.

Remy Top/Brussels Skirt
Simple tee dress in a great print
Lightweight wool jacket

A Great Day at Ginny’s

We waited till May to avoid late snowstorms and instead we got heavy rain and road construction! But everyone got there safely and showed some great warmer weather garments. We are so grateful that you all love to meet together!!

Thursday will be Garment Sewing Group and Fabric Swap at 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington and then Saturday at Treadle Yard Goods-come and join the fun and creativity.

Trio Top/Sewing Workhop and Barry Pant/StyleArc
London Shirt/Sewing Workshop
Noto Tee, Hudson Pant, Sterling Jacket-all Sewing Workshop
OOP Butterick Jean Jacket
Jacket/Vogue 1975 Barcelona Dress/Maven Patterns
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop
Fabric selection by Ginny
Machine embroidery

April Garments

Judging from the photos we have a pretty good time at our meetings! We had a large group at the Sewing Lounge and then a LARGE group of free fabric at First Sewing-and many people went home with a bagful 🙂

Thanks for being there!! Lots of new faces and a few we hadn’t seen for some time…

Debbie’s Garments:

Purple Print Empire Waist Dress

Itch to Stitch Recoleta Dress

Linen

1. Did not do any petite adjustments but shortened length 3 inches.

2. I felt the print needed to be broken up a bit so I added piping around neckband- not fun.

3. Adding a zipper is optional but I disagree with that. Even with zipper I find the dress difficult to put on and take off.

4. I have a difficult time choosing what size to make when using Itch to Stitch patterns. They seem to run large on bodice but smaller at hips. I am sure it is just me but I think I will stay away from this brand for awhile .

Soft Coral Print Cut On Sleeve Blouse

Melody Dolman by Love Notions

Rayon Lawn

1. I did my petite adjustments between shoulder and bust, bust and waist and shortened one inch at hem.

2. I used the one piece collar method from Louise Cutting for collar. It eliminates seams at collar edge. I also softened the shirt tail curve on hem.

3. The directions for inside collar are good, easy and quick and eliminates slipstitching.

4. I feel the blouse fits nice but next time, depending on fabric choice, I would XS shoulders to medium at hips.

5. There will be a next time. Love Notions patterns work well for me.

Oatmeal/Coral Print Sweatshirt

Simplicity 9229

95% Cotton 5% Spandex French Terry 4-way stretch

1. I made this tee last year and was pleased with it. The angled front design line is showing up everywhere so with a few changes I am already thinking of my next make using this pattern.

2. I did my standard petite adjustments.

3. I extended the short sleeve into long sleeve length .

4. I topstitched the angle seam for contrast.

Both are wearing the Vanessa Joggers

Coral Joggers

Jalie Vanessa Joggers

Cotton

1. A TNT pattern that I make often.

2.The changes I make from the original pattern is a one piece waistband without the drawstring feature and no fly front detail.

Kristin’s Garments

Golf Dress

Simplicity 9328

Poly/lycra knit

1. Looking for sun protection and comfort. Quarter zip was pretty straightforward-reinforce the area with interfacing, stitch over stitching line, clip to inside corners, sew each side of zipper and tuck in the triangle at bottom.

2. Pattern called for sewing ribbon to the inside of zipper but used bias strip instead-easier to stitch to raw edge and pressed easily for less bulk.

3. Pattern called for stitching one band on then turning under edges of other and topstitching but with chosen fabric I serged the whole band on and topstitched seam allowance down.

Cold Sewing Day Sweater

Jalie Romy Pattern

Wool knit remnants

1. Very quick sew with only two pattern pieces (sleeve and front/back) and because of that the fit at the neck could use a good forward shoulder adjustment.

2. Instead of adding band, I cut pattern longer to equal band and made a deep hem.

3. Underarm curve and sleeve is to pattern.

4. Funnel neck is nice and their technique of sewing the seam allowances together to keep neck in place is a technique I will use again.

Faux Wrap Skirt (pictured above and below)

New Look 6646

Stretch woven

1. Not enough fabric to make the wrap to pattern and didn’t really want the free swinging wrap anyway.

2. Cut the front 2.5” wider and stitched a 1.25” pleat in the position of the wrap hem.

3. Basic straight skirt with back darts. Omitted the waistband and stitched on elastic.

Peplum Sweater Jacket

Burda 6293

Ponte

1. Loved the photo so had to give it a try. Instead of facings and linings I added a band at the neck and a band at center fronts so I had overlap for closure.

2. Lots of seams for knit but a fun adventure in fitting.

3. Lighter weight ponte was perfect fabric choice.

May 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, May 11, 10:30, Ginny’s in Rochester

Thursday, May 12, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, May 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

One More April Meeting

It’s tomorrow (Thursday, April 14) at First Sewing, Bloomington and there’s going to be ALOT of fabric to swap!!!! Please come and take some. Somebody was moving… There will be some diamonds and some duds but it’s all free and going to Goodwill by 4 pm.

There will also be great sewing inspiration! Here’s what we saw at the Sewing Lounge Wednesday. There were 27 people and we stood on a chair so all could see-but we had a great time 🙂 Thanks for keeping on keeping on.

Spring cotton knit pj’s-Madison Top and Joggers-Sewing Workshop
Flynn Jacket-In the Folds and Peplum Top-Peppermint Magazine
Perfectly matched pockets-Simplicity 9479
OOP Marcy Tilton-still a winner!
Blanca Flight Suit X 2-Closet Core Patterns
Nova Sweatshirt-Sinclair Patterns
Tabor Vee-Sew House Seven and another Madison Jogger-Sewing Workshop
Sterling Jacket-Sewing Workshop
Simplicity 9229
Tallinn Sweater-Hey June
Mary Poppins Bag

April Garment Sewing Group Meetings Begin Saturday

Please join us!

Saturday, April 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, April 13, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, April 14, First Sewing, Bloomington AND FABRIC SWAP!

And keeping up with last month’s meeting-

Debbie’s Garments:

Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress, Cotton

1. Made petite adjustment between shoulder and bust and shortened length by one inch.

2. I reversed construction technique for button placket to add contrast interest.

3. Also did burrito roll for yoke rather than slipstitch method.

4. Since my  first make from this pattern was the gathered view I wanted to try the other view and I am very glad I did and will probably make it again.

Love Notions Vivace Tunic, Rayon Lawn

1. Made my standard petite adjustments but did not shorten length.

2. Due to lack of fabric  and one way design I cut apart the back to create a lined yoke and used contrast fabric for facing.

3. I like how this pattern is relaxed and yet isn’t too oversized. A fun make that I will do agin.

Love Notions Terra Tunic, Cotton jersey with spandex

1. Using my remnants and copying RTW, I was able to make my favorite  tunic pattern.

2. I cut apart front, back and sleeves, added seam allowance and carefully constructed the boatneck. The most difficult part was adapting the white upper sleeve  because it couldn’t be cut straight across at the hem. Once I figured out that I added  a coral rectangle to the upper sleeve and placed the the sleeve pattern onto of fabric to get the shape of the sleeve correct. Then I was able to determine the length of the coral section and added the bottom lavender potion. All this was done while the body  of the tee was on my mannequin.  Whew – not as easy as I thought.

3. The construction of the boatneck and side slits are very good and not at all difficult.

4. This is a TNT pattern with so many options  – I will be making more.

McCalls 7122, Viscose print and cotton jersey solid

1. Still making use of remnants I was able to gain more storage space for new fabric and have fun tee to wear. Its a win win!

2. The cotton jersey is easy to work with, the viscose not so much.

3. Another TNT pattern that I will using again with or without remnants.

Kristin’s Garments

New Look 6588, various fleeces and knits

1. Made to pattern to get an idea of fit. It is unisex so quite oversized but all the pics I saw were drop shoulder at least.

2. Glad that I chose a stripe for the neck to see how it worked. All pieces went together perfectly. Turning corners as in Tabor Vee and worked like a charm.

3. Whacked off lots of fabric but pleased with the results. Not quite what I was hoping for in the end but I have a great pattern piece to hack on to a better fitting tunic.

Helmi Trench Blouse/Named Patterns, Cotton shirting

1. Moved bust dart and widened at hip but otherwise great shoulders and all.

2. Wish I would have matched vertical stripes!

3. Sleeves were supposed to be cinched with a band-more trench coat-like. Tapered instead.

Helmi Trench Blouse and Dress by Named

Helmi Trench Dress/Named Patterns, Corduroy

1. Same fit adjustments. Very happy with results. I have added 2” to skirt length.

Nicole/Jalie Patterns #3903

1. The Nicole pattern has a bodice piece and skirt piece that is to be joined when you cut it out but I had these two fabrics as remnants and have always wanted them together. Perfect opportunity!

2. Neckband has been shortened by 1/4” (1/2” total).

3. Faux pockets added to accommodate a flaw in the fabric discovered only after unfolding the already cut out skirt piece.

April 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, April 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, April 13, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, April 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

Garment Sewing Group on Wednesday and Class Pics

Here are the meeting times and spaces for this week:

Wednesday, March 9, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, 5255 Chicago Av., Mpls.

Thursday, March 10, 10:30 at First Sewing, 7985 Southtown Center, Blmgtn. (Bring fabric to swap!)

Saturday, March 12, 10:30 at Treadle Yard Goods, 1338 Grand Av., St. Paul

Our Quilted Jacket class just finished up. Here are a few photos-

Next project!! Fun findings at Treadle
Hovea Jacket in progress
Jacket, lining and bias trim

Great vest from New Look 6713 (don’t ask how long it took to get the pics on top of each other-or try to get one of them deleted!!)

Jacket Class Wednesday and More

Metra Blazer/Love Notions

Not quite spring and hoping to NOT be winter we are sewing/serging jackets or cardigans starting Wednesday, March 2, 9 and 16 from 1-3 at Treadle Yard Goods. Please call or go online to sign up-3 spots left! We are recommending the Metra Blazer from Love Notions, New Look 6735 cardigan, Blackwood Cardigan from Helen’s Closet as just a few of our favorites. You can get your pattern printed easily and quickly at the Sewing Lounge. Email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com if you have questions.

Metra Blazer
New Look 6735

And then we have some more to show from February Garment Sewing Group-are you sewing something spring-ish for March??

Vogue 9133
Burda 7700
Paddington Top/Peppermint Mag-(buttons down back)
Butterick 6323
Romy/Jalie Patterns
Belvedere Waistcoat/Thread Theory
Simplicity 7277
McCalls 6796

Can’t wait to see what March meetings have in store…Wednesday, 3/9 at Lakes Makerie, Thursday, 3/10 at First Sewing, Saturday, 3/12 at Treadle!

February Garment Sewing Group

Here are the garments Debbie and I made for February. Inspiration from all of you will follow soon…

 Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Olympia Dress

Teal/Navy Fit and Flare Dress

Cotton Jersey

1. I Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust and shortened hem length by 1.5 inches.

2. I eliminated the pockets and tapered the sleeves one inch at hem.

3. The construction of the neckline is unique but also very easy and quick. Jalie has a top pattern with a similar neck line construction that creates a lined bodice. I think the two techniques could be interchanged especially if you have light weight fabric.

4. Very pleased with this dress I would like to make another but there are so many other patterns to try!

Jalie Nicole Dress

Teal/Gray Pocket Tunic/Dress

Viscose, rayon, spandex ponte

1. I wanted some “everyday “ easy, casual, polished and warm garments and a dress from   Artful Home became my inspiration.

2. I did my petite and shortening adjustments as usual.

3. Pocket – I determined the size of the two rectangles used for pockets and added seam allowances. Then I clean finished the sides of both pockets. I stitched the small pocket to the large pocket leaving top of pocket open. I used Wonder Under fusible to then attach the large pocket to dress. I also stitched around all sides of large pocket. It took a lot longer to think about what process to use than to actually sew the pockets to the dress.

4.  The inspiration dress does not have a mock neck or long sleeves but this is Minnesota and the Jalie dress pattern is very accommodating for our climate!

5.  Once pocket was attached I continued construction as pattern directs.

McCalls 8022

Brick Tunic/Dress with Contrast Trim

Viscose rayon, spandex Ponte

1. I always start with my fit adjustments-petiting and shortening length.

2. I did not care for the collar on the pattern so again I made a mock T neck. To give the dress a bit of contrast I cut the neck pattern piece in half and added seam allowance. The outside of the mock is Ponte and the inside is cotton jersey. The contrast is created by stitching the upper edge and then wrapping the jersey over the Ponte seam allowance.

3. The contrast on sleeve hem is created by stitching RS of contrast jersey to WS of sleeve.

4. The instructions suggest using fusible tape for the hem. I do not find that tip often in the big four pattern companies.

Kristin’s Garments:

Giselle from FibreMood

Last Quilted Jacket

Wool, linen, wool knit, wool batting

1. Although puffer jacket was my inspiration, my choice of fabrics certainly didn’t reflect it!

2. Cut to pattern and then shortened by two inches when finished.

3. Resorted to my old quilt habits and quilted the back piece from center out to minimize the fabric/layer movement.

4. Changed the collar to a knit band and am very happy I did-warm, not stiff.

5. The zipper placket and zipper guard went together very well although a bit thick at seam crossings. Made it look more ready to wear.

6. A fun journey but done quilting for the year 🙂

Tabor Vee View 4 Sew House Seven/Hudson Pant from True Bias

Pajama Set

1. Wanted to give the Tabor a try with sleeves. Very happy with them-snug fitting sleeves but loose body.

2. Vee neck fits closely around neck so not too cold for winter!

3. Hudson Pant is my go-to knit jogger pattern. Added another inch to length and omitted pockets.

New Classes in March:

Jackets, Cardigans, Coatigans-Wednesdays, March 2, 9, 16, 1-3 pm at Treadle Yard Goods

March 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, March 9, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, March 10, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, March 12, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul