March Garments-

Kay’s Garments:

Cashmerette Magna Pants From the “Ahead of the Curve” in wool blend woven and Maker’s Atelier Flared Shirt in linen/cotton blend

Magna Pants from “Ahead of the Curve”

Linen/cotton blend

This is a printed pattern if you have a copy of the book. If you have a digital copy of the book, the pattern is available as a PDF.

I made the version which does not require an optional side zipper.

The pattern is only available in US sizes 12-32. Cashmerette now does all patterns in a full size range from US sizes 0-32.

This is a pattern for woven fabrics and has a flat front waistband and an elastic back which I prefer rather than one that is all elastic. The back darts also provide me with a better fit.

Maker’s Atelier’s Flared Shirt, PDF (AO) (photo above)

Available through The Fold Line

Linen, cotton Blend from Style Makers

This shirt is similar to the popular Donny Shirt. I like this British Designer.

The collar is flat and does not have a band which I like.

I made the long sleeve version but am also thinking that I would like the sleeveless version for spring and summer. It has a nice flared shape.

Love Notions Geneva Pullover and Jacket, in scuba knit

I made the asymmetrical version with zippered side pockets.

The scuba fabric was great to work with and this is a nice transitional piece as the weather changes.

I found that the directions while good could have been clearer especially when dealing with inserting the pocket zippers.

I made the pattern to size and was very happy with the fit.

Love Notions Tranquil Nightwear, stash knits

Closet Core Sleep Mask -matching fabric-free pattern

I wanted a pair of spring pajamas but decided to make the long sleeved top and long pants as I get cold even in the summer!

I did not use the pattern directions for attaching the bindings. I used 2” wide strips of knit, folded them in half and serged them to the edges.

I made the pattern to size and it fits but I like my jammies to be loose and comfy and these are more form fitting. I should have looked more carefully at the pattern and would have noticed that the bottoms fit more like leggings than lounge pants. So while the pattern is cute, I would recommend sizing up one or maybe even 2 sizes for the bottoms. I would also shorten them.

The sleep mask is fun and easy to make and a different type from the typical sleep mask. I liked that it didn’t have an elastic band around your head. Just a fun little addition.

Sudoku Capsule Grid:
Column 1: Top-Layer-Bottom Column 2: Bottom-Top-Layer Column 3: Layer-Bottom-Top

Kay gave us some very on-trend tips on packing with the sudoku method. It’s a great way to find holes in your wardrobe too! Have fun on a snowy afternoon and see how many you have in your wardrobe!

Kristin’s Garments

Burda 5941 in assorted women’s, quilted lining

A warmer, more casual jacket was needed in the wardrobe so here it is! My plan was to make the first jacket from the quilted lining, make the outside jacket, shorten the lining at the hem and stitch to the outer jacket lining, stitch the lining to the outer jacket at the neck edge (with the collar sandwiched between), pop on the plackets and deal with the sleeve edges as it happened.

For once, I pretty much followed the plan! I added a center back upper and lower seam to accommodate my fabric mash up. The lining seams were zigzagged open to keep them flat.

The center front facings were trimmed off to become the plackets. I reshaped the back facing for hanger appeal.

Welt pockets were added using Sew Anastasia’s technique on YouTube (I used the same technique on the sweater jacket). The placket ends were applied using this technique (https://fb.watch/FN4vzhKzIM/?fs=e) It’s Kenneth King slowing down a fast recording of ryliss_sewinganddesign-school doing the same thing. It works great on waistbands and worked really well on the hem end of placket but not on the collar end (collar is in the way).

Sistermagpatterns Camp Shirt in chambray

Another fun drafting exercise from this company. I made two last month. The photo (again) drew me in. I am happy with the results and enjoyed the sew.

Only one collar is cut out and the neck facing incorporates the upper collar. That’s cool! Beautiful pleats in the sleeve. Used a quick Workroom Social technique YouTube tutorial for sleeve plackets.

I got so excited about my two neck buttons that I forgot about the cuff buttons so did snaps 🙂

Noodlehead Pepin Tote in laminated canvas/cotton lining

This is a medium sized, lined bag with nice pocket assortment and optional zip closure. The laminated canvas was fairly easy to sew on-the walking foot was my tool of choice.

I put in the top zip. I also used a zipper foot to enclose clothesline rope inside the handle to give it some heft. The pattern and instructions were great but not quite the perfect bag yet..

April Garment Sewing Group Meetings-Cohost: Barb Prigge

Wednesday, April 8, Sew Inviting, St. Paul

Thursday, April 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and Fabric Swap

Saturday, April 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

March Madness :)

(Some of my grandkids are super-into basketball, but I digress)

Our pre-blizzard March Garment Sewing Group meetings were amazing!! Kay was the cohost and had a great time (her words). We started out Wednesday at Lakes Makerie-

Grainline Studio Lark Tee in merino wool
Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket in quilted-by-Debbie cotton
Paper Cut Patterns Fjord Cardi
Vogue 9275 in wool knits
New Look 6150
Sewing Workshop Hudson Top and Helix Pant
Merchant & Mills Sanda Jacket in wool
Cashmerette Stanton Sweatshirt
Jalie Tania Jacket and (wearing) StyleArc Maddie Top
Me and Miss Moore Feel Good Dress in rayon

Then Thursday was at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley-

Named Talvikki Sweater
StyleArc Loren in waffle weave cotton
Closet Core Petra Pants
Slate Skirt from Closet Core Crew in wool

Saturday’s meeting was at Open Studio Sewing in St. Louis Park-

Frux Studio Garden Dress and Top in cotton
Pajama Pants
McCalls 8144
Vogue 8123
Syd Graham Lane Pants
KwikSew 3899 vest and Helen’s Closet Winslow Culottes (sorry you can’t see them but people asked about them)
Youngest attendee in me-made pajama pants
By Annie Makeup Bag
New Look 6397 made from cashmere scarves
Another color way of scarves in KwikSew 3174
Repurposed denim shirt and red wool sweater

And we all went home and waited for the blizzard! Whew! Dodged that bullet!

Kristin and Kay’s garments are in a separate post-

February Photos

Another month and you didn’t disappoint! Here are Saturday and Thursday meetings-

Matchy Matchy Pintuck Poet Blouse
Thread Theory Jedediah Pant with a jean style pocket
Sewing Workshop Chateau Jacket and inspiration
Self drafted butterfly wings vest
Fortiv Tulip Dress
Burda 6990 in sweater knit
Ellieandmac School Cool Dress and Tunic
Sewing Workshop Whistle of Bells and Whistles
Simplicity 2153
Feel Good Dress/Me and Miss Moore
Itch to Stitch Orio Jacket
Mrs. T’s Apron
Makers Atelier Faux Fur Accessories

More from February

More great makes— keep scrolling for photos from Brenda and Kristin.

Sewing Workshop Liberty Top and West End Pant
Chanel type jacket in wool and silk
Named Talvikki Sweater in wool
Jacket-McCalls 8011, Cardigan-Simplicity 9272
All ready for Valentines Day-Sewing Workshop Triod
Blouse-Simplicity 1538 and Sew Liberated Sylvan Jacket
Marcy Tilton jacket and Sewing Workshop Hudson Top

February Garment Sewing Group

Cohost: Brenda

Love Notions Barrington Boxy Tee in printed jersey and Megan Nielsen Ash Jeans in stretch twill

1. I loved this tee when Kristin made it a few months ago and I have seen several versions of it in ready to wear.

2. This is the second time I have made this. The first time I only had enough fabric for the body so I used some scraps for the hem facing and neckband. I really liked the contrast and I think it adds balance to the look. I also like the hem facing, I think it elevates the shirt. If you omit it make sure you add hem allowance.

Megan Nielsen Ash Jean

Cloud Dancer stretch twill-Yes I love the color of the year!

1. This is a powerhouse pattern. There are 4 views with extended sizing available. The wide leg is not overly wide and works well for a cropped style.

2. I followed the pattern’s excellent instructions for constructing the pants. To fit the pants I used the book Fit and Sew Custom Jeans by Helen Bartley. 

3. I completely assembled the front and back-zipper pocket & yoke. Then I machine baste the back, inseam and sides together and try them on. Since I start with my hip measurement I often have to take some in at the yoke

I do this every single time because different fabrics fit differently. I used a fusible interfacing in the waistband. I may try the Ban-Rol next time.

4.I’m embracing the handmade buttonhole! I think it is the best result for a fish eye. This is the first time I’ve had a water soluble pen leave a mark 😦

Sew House Seven Tabor in wide rib knit

1. Version 4 is my favorite look. Using a fabric with good drape I think is key.

2. I love the directions for inserting the v neck. It always turns out great. I also cut the neckband on the bias for added interest.

3. The split hem is beautifully drafted with mitered corners. I follow the directions and zigzag stitch the hem. It’s easy and I’m always happy with the results.

Style Arc Anais Woven Dress in Pucci print mystery knit

1. The construction of this dress is really fun. The two piece raglan sleeve fits the shoulder really nice. There is an easy fold over placket, wide cuff and the collar encases the neckline.

2. They do not request any interfacing. I interfaced all the usual suspects: cuffs, collars, front plackets and top of pocket.

3. This fabric is really drapey, the hem hangs a little wavy and the breast pocket drops. I don’t think it affects the wearability. I also stitched the side pockets down.

Deer and Doe Mistral Dress in Cupro jersey slub rib

1. This dress pattern was inspired by the Toteme slouch waist dress $880. I made mine for under $50. It also comes in extended sizes.

2. The design is very clever. There are two front and two back pieces. Each piece is one continuous cut, top to bottom. The top lays at a slight angle and is cut on the bias. The skirt is cut on the straight-of-grain. This causes the top to drape with a really cool slouch effect. 

3. I chose the size based on my hip measurement. The finished bust measurements seem huge. This is due to the cut on-sleeve.  Don’t be tempted to grade the top down.

Kristin’s Garments

LB Pullover Paper Theory Patterns in plaid silk

Somebody said I had to get this pattern and I’d make lots of them. So I did but I won’t 🙂

It’s a fine pattern-similar to the Hudson Top from Sewing Workshop.

I added a pleat to the back to make it bigger at hips. Then the neck seemed big as I wanted to be able to wear it under a jacket/sweater so I took the neckband off and added a pleat to the front. I like it with my changes. Also happy with fabric choice.

SisterMag Patterns Buttercup Sweater in herringbone knit

The model hooked me on this pattern! The heavy knit I used could have been loftier but I like how it turned out. Neck/collar is good and lays nicely although it won’t stand up like the sample.

There is a great video tutorial on YouTube for making the sweater. I hand stitched the “rolled hem” on the collar. Looks nice but you have to get close 🙂

They don’t use the serger much but the inset neck is better done with the sewing machine.

I took two inches out of the width of the sleeve at the wrist.

SisterMag Patterns Hush Fleece Sweater in knit

Elsbeth (from TV series) called to me for this sweater and fabric (the bow is hard to see in this print)!! It was a fun make-again, a wonderful video tutorial made it easy to figure out. Many numbered seams as in Burda patterns but that made things clear. Underarm gussets were challenging but that’s what gussets are-IMHO.

Well drafted, all the notches matched. Rather funky but I like it. Maybe just a one trick pony but I will definitely wear it!

I swapped their single layer cuff (it was also very wide!) for the deep cuff from Toaster Sweater Version 1. It looks a lot better. There was a fair amount of hand stitching recommended-I used my machines.

March-cohost Kay Dole

Wednesday, March 11, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Thursday, March 12, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, March 14, Open Studio, Mpls.

February Garment Sewing Group Week!

Ready for more inspiring sewing? The weather is better and spring is closer…hope to see you:

February-cohost Brenda Czarnik

Wednesday, February 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, February 12, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, February 14, Sew Inviting, St. Paul

Also, we have a Basic Sergery class, Thursday, Feb. 19, 10-12 pm at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Call the store to register-952-431-6688. The classes at other locations have mostly sold out.

I needed a little inspiration last week so I ducked in to the Red Wing Depot Art Gallery-where do you go to be inspired?

Sew on!!

January Wrap-up

Our Lakes Makerie meeting was full of great makes! Keep scrolling down for Debbie and Kristin’s garments-

Vogue 8854 in wool
Burda 5860…
In reversible wool!!
Big Easy from Makers Atelier-in wool!
Named Talvikki Tunic in fleece
Grandbaby sewing: Poncho from lavenderlilydesign@gmail.com
Beautiful handwork in purple wool
Silk cording on purple wool

January Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Metra Blazer, shawl neck view, stretch corduroy

I am a fan of toppers and the Metra Blazer is a TNT for me.

On this version I lined the sleeves with a stretch crepe and finished seams with a Hong Kong finish.

The front facing connects to the side panel and creates the pocket bag and gives the jacket some structure and stabilization to compensate for soft corduroy.

I find this topper versatile, an easy and quick make and a great addition to my wardrobe.

Butterick 7061, View B, wool with rayon lining

I mistakenly thought this was going to be an easy make but became a challenge mainly due to some decisions I made.

I had a limited amount of fabric to use so that made matching plaid a challenge.

The first fit adjustment I made was adding 3” of length to jacket – Not a fan of cropped jackets-and shortened the sleeves 2 inches. I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

The pattern is unlined. I lined the sleeves and underlined the jacket body. I wish I would have made a lining for the jacket and a back neck facing to connect the center front facings. Not having that back neck facing piece means the shoulder of the front facings is slipped stitched – Not a fan of that procedure!

I lined the pockets, repositioned them and topstitched them onto the jacket. Not sure that was the best idea.

The pattern calls for 2 buttons – I added a third.

The jacket hem is a contour facing. A nice finish to the jacket.

Butterick 6924 in rayon challis

For fit I did my standard adjustments. Then considering this make a wearable muslin I did a lot of machine basting as much as possible to get a good fit. I feel the shirt runs large and/or is oversized-I would go down a size next time.

This is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there are a good construction tips such as a painless placket, front “yoke” and neck binding finish.

I like to use the burrito method for yokes – the pattern does not use that method but I did. Unfortunately once again since there is no back neck facing I have the shoulder section of the front facings needing to be slip-stitched to keep them from floating.

This is a good pattern in that it makes up quickly, it has good construction tips and variations for sleeves and hems.

Kristin’s Garments:

Vogue 1648 in wool knit with ponte facings

After an exhaustive search for a pattern that had the same neckline, I chose Vogue 1648 because of the funnel neck. Surprising how hard it is to find this particular neck style. I found another pattern “MonoPattern Oversized Coat” but it was also a funnel neck even tho the photo didn’t show it that way.

The bell sleeve is from Burda 6059-I shortened it (maybe just a bit too much) but if too long the bell becomes a blob 🙂 Hem is the casing for elastic.

The Vogue pattern has a welt pocket so I gave it a try-pretty small and weird. Went to YouTube and watched Sew Anastasia-How to Sew a Welt Pocket and made that work. Not pretty on the inside but I am happy with results.

I cut down the neck, especially at center front, pretty much eliminated the back curved hem and eliminated the back pleat.

Weirdest thing is discovering -almost at the end of construction-that the fabric has a nap and is probably directional but you really have to look!

Jalie Marie Claude Cotton, rib knit and lots of buttons!

Had to give it a try and this stripe called out to me 🙂

Added 3/4” at center fold (1.25” total) and cut apart, serged, folded and lapped. Learned how to sew buttons on with machine.

Added buttons to cuffs. Neck was tricky because of the back neck section.

Handy trick when beginning coverstitch at an edge: stitch on Solvy to get started, then on to fabric. Solvy tears away quickly and you can knot the end and hide it.

Merchant & Mills Eve Trouser in wide wale corduroy

I’ve made this pattern before but needed to try again as the others turned out too big. I wanted a smooth front (as opposed to a zip and button) for wearing under the stripe turtle.

The side zip has a flap that makes it classy. I used woven interfacing for the waistband-convenient in a pre-cut width.

These pants are keepers and I love the wide wale cord for winter.

February 2026 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, Feb. 11, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, Feb. 12, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, Feb. 14, 10:30 at Sew Inviting, St. Paul

Other dates for your calendar:

Sew Inviting Sale-Semi annual sale going on now!

Frocktails-April 11- “Making Through the Decades” Tickets on sale 1/11

H+H Americas Fiber and Craft Festival: April 30-May 3, Chicago area

January Sew Far-

You have one more chance to show us your stuff!! Wednesday, January 14, at Lakes Makerie will be the last of the January meetings-hope you can make it!!

Here is what we’ve seen so far 🙂

It all started with a Labobo doll (and a grandchild, of course)
And it became a pattern and a bit of an obsession-so cute!
Vintage coverlet in self-drafted pattern
Beautiful quilt top
Quokka Top from Waves and Wild
PJ’s using Stretch & Sew 333 and Valencia Pant/Sewing Workshop and wearing Christine Jonson Travel Trio 2 Turtleneck
Velour Top with custom thumb holes-how much fun do we have??
Deer and Doe Plantain Tee and Cashmerette Calder Pants
Lots of love (and work) in Annie’s bags!!
Christine Jonson #917 3 Tees
Sewing up UFO’s-Sewing Workshop Helix Pant
Custom drafted pant and Sewing Workshop Quincy Jacket
Robert’s Wood Flower Patchwork Top
Stylearc Archie Jacket plus 2”
Sew Over It Coco Jacket-trim was the selvedge!!
Variation on a Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven
Sewing Workshop Elle Shirt in wool

Serger for Sale! SOLD!!

Need a last minute Christmas present (for yourself :)?

This is a combination Babylock Evolution which means it will do 4 thread overlock and coverstitch. It’s a few models back and not as large as the current models. Only been used about 6 times. $900 or best offer. Please email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com if interested.

Debbie and Kristin’s December Garments

Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Bridget Trouser in Ponte knit

I don’t wear black often but sometimes a black pair of pants is a need. This pattern release inspired me to try out a muslin with Ponte in my stash – exactly what the pattern recommends.

Love Notions are excellent patterns in terms of fit and construction. Options for fit include full belly and full bum, 3 inseam lengths and two leg widths. It is a high waist pant with back darts and contour waistband. Slash pockets are included as well as optional welt pockets.

To meet my needs I did my standard length adjustments. Since this was a muslin I eliminated the welt pockets and belt loops. Then I continued the project as pattern directs. In the end I like the fit from waist to hips but not fond of pant leg width.

The only construction detail that seemed odd was folding over 1/4 inch at edge of leg hem and then stitch. That seemed a little homemade to me. I would rather serge edge and hand stitch or cover stitch.

Pattern Emporium Spill the Tea Tie Neck Blouse/Red silk

1. This was a fun make but I did not enjoy working with the silk fabric!

2. The pattern instructions are very good and relatively easy. There is no front placket -just slip it over your head and tie a fun bow. For the center front seam I serged the edges and topstitched the top of the seam from V opening to shoulder. The pattern instructions direct you to make a “narrow” hem along center front seam – I didn’t feel that was necessary.

3. The bow construction is very much like a burrito method and the directions are clear. If you are a visual learner check out Lifting Pins and Needles – Heavenly Bow Ties is a good resource on You Tube.

4. For fit I petited between shoulder and bust, bust and waist and waist and hem. I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

5. I give this pattern 5 stars and will definitely make it again in a more user friendly fabric!

Style Arc Harriet Jacket in fine wale corduroy

This is a TNT jacket pattern for me. It goes together quickly whether you choose to line it or not. Next time I make it I need to remember to shorten the sleeves!

I like the casual tailored look and appreciate how easy it is to wear and to complete an outfit.

McCalls 8210 in wool knit blend-the jacket dwarfed Debbie so Christine was kind enough to model 🙂

Wow- this make was a challenge for me.

The pattern is extremely oversized. I used the smallest size and shortened body and sleeve length.

The fabric was not easy to work with-mostly because I did not do well matching fabric to pattern. It was not only too bulky but spongy and moved around a lot.

The fabric did not like the standard or walking presser foot – I found the teflon foot the best option.

I stitched the seams with the sewing machine and then serged the raw edges. I like the welt pocket. But they are messy on the inside and topstitching was difficult.

I feel the directions for construction need much improvement in every aspect.

Kristin’s Garments

Stylearc Loren Jacket in cotton velvet

The long version of the Loren has been so fun to wear that I had to try it short (9.5” shorter 🙂 I purchased the extension pack (lining, sleeve and collar variations) and used the lining but still used the shawl collar.

Velvet was tricky to work with but love it now that it’s done. The first jacket had some stretch to it so was curious to see how it would fit in a woven. The shoulders are a size smaller but everything else is the same and fits very well.

Stylearc is including more directions but still a bit confusing.

I have a pair of Closet Core/Rika Pants cut out in the same fabric for a tuxedo look!

Pattern Emporium Spill the Tea Blouse in rayon twill

Like Debbie says-a great sew and pattern and I’ll use it again!!

There’s a tv show called Elsbeth-she wears blouses in bold prints and colors with frills at the neck and wrists under jackets in colors you and I would never put together. Fun!!

Jalie Charlotte Cardigan in cotton fleece

Because there is very little stretch in the fleece I cut out three sizes larger and still had to add an inch to the sleeve width to make it comfortable but the fit was good otherwise.

The hem band has been omitted to keep it short. The stability of the fleece worked well for the hem.

The phone pocket is 6.5”x7.5” and is a welt square for the zip opening and then sewn together top and bottom and one single vertical seam, then turned right side out and sewn on to garment.

Crescent Tote/Noodlehead in canvas

1. Fun make in canvas. Used Bosal for stabilizer/interfacing.

January 2026 Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, January 8, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, January 10, 10:30 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, January 14, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

December Meetings Ended With New Faces!

Don’t get me wrong-the Wednesday and Thursday meetings were great but Madee (the owner of Open Studio Sewing) rocked it and got some of her sewing community members to check us out and added a new perspective to our Saturday meeting. And thanks to our regulars that met for coffee at Yum! before the meeting-a great Saturday all around!

Check out the new faces!

Ginny Top from Elle Stitch
Spaghetti Western Sewing Henrietta Skirt (and crocheted sweater!)
True Bias Marlo and Jalie Eleonore Pant
Simplicity 9272 in wool knit
Friday Pattern Company Donny Shirt and Helen’s Closet Falconer Pant
Tiana Herring Juniper Dress and Tauko Cloud Top
Merchant & Mills Sanda Jacket #1
And #2! I want to be on her Christmas list!
And for Dad-Helen’s Closet Cameron Button Up

Rue spaghetti western sewing

Minimalist shirt tropical research

Spaghetti Western Sewing Rue Quilt Coat
Tropical Research Minimalist Shirt (channeling warm beaches)
Sew Liberated Chanterelle Pant
Thread Theory Jedediah Pant
Papercut Patterns Copellia Cardi
Merry Christmas!