May Garment Sewing Group Final

A few photos from the Saturday meeting at Quilter’s Haven-

Silhouette Patterns #575 hacked into a biking shirt
Summer dress-McCalls 5668
Simplicity 8061

And Debbie and Kristin’s garments-

Debbie’s Garments:

Shirt Dress

Simplicity 8014, View D, chambray

1. The only fitting adjustment needed was narrow shoulder. Unfortunately I cut the dress length too short – need to wear it with leggings.

2. I added a lining to the back yoke and used the burrito method to construct.

3. This was a fun make. The pattern offers several choices for length, sleeves and bodice. The Chambray fabric was easy to work with.

Itch to Stitch Medellin Top, cotton interlock and Love Notions Duet Trousers, stretch denim

1. IS patterns work well for me generally. I did not do any petite adjustments. Since I eliminated the bottom band I increased the body length pattern pieces by one inch.

2. The directions call for clear elastic for the shirring on side. I found that the gather stitches alone worked well so I did not use the elastic.

3. The pattern instructions are clear and concise and the fabric was great to work with.

Love Notions Duet Trousers, Stretch Denim

1. This is my second try at this pattern. The fabric choice makes a difference in sizing. The stretch denim I used was poor quality and shrunk 4 inches when I washed it. Live and Learn!

2. I eliminated the front pockets due to lack of fabric. I used the curvy waistband pattern piece instead of the straight piece.

3. The pattern can be used for stretch woven and stable knits.

4. I am not thrilled with this make. I will try a stable knit next time and then move on.

Itch to Stitch Galicia Top, cotton poplin
Button back

1. I petited the pattern between shoulder and bust and shortened the length by 2 inches.

2. The pattern has great construction techniques. There is an option for vertical darts which I chose to do. I also shortened the width of the cuff.

3. The pattern is a little out of my comfort zone but I am glad I gave it a try. I think it would be a fun special occasion top.

Kristin’s Garments

Burda 6114 Jacket, fleece and scuba knit and Ravinia Skirt, Love Notions in cotton interlock (version 1)

Jacket, Burda 6114

1. Made size 16/18 at hip. Sizing seemed great.

2. Folded 3/4” out of collar lengthwise. Collar is taller in front, probably would change that in future jackets as it just stands up and doesn’t seem to want to lay in a “collarly” fashion. Didn’t interface.

3. Pockets according to pattern were just a passing thought-instead cut 6×9” rectangles and 3 layers so that anywhere the pocket showed would be my knit print. Pockets went from seam to seam and were topstitched through outer fabric across the top. Very happy with them.

4. Changed up zipper installation-folded collar and hem over zip, stitched and turned right side out. Very important (I think): handbasted from pocket top up and down to ensure all meeting points were happy.

5. Left sleeve hems very deep (sleeves were 2”+ too long) so white wrong side of scuba doesn’t show.

Midi Length Knit SkirtRavinia Skirt/Love NotionsCotton knit

1. Oh, my, how could I have been so blind!! I had traveled down the Instagram/email rabbit hole and saw this pattern which matched a picture I had cut out of a catalog numerous times!! How could I have missed the photos of the test garments?

2. But the skirt was already cut out so sew it I must. It isn’t so bad-I knew it was an a-line skirt and that the waist band had negative ease (5-7”) but I didn’t understand that the waist edge of the skirt also had the same negative ease. I was hoping for a few tucks and pleats as the waistband was stretched to meet the skirt. Nope-I had to stretch the skirt to fit the waistband that I cut out two sizes larger to accommodate the fact that my waist was larger than the pattern measurements (not a problem if the skirt is gathered into the negative ease waistband!)

3. The gathered pocket went in well and to be fair there are some funny puckers in my inspiration picture where gathers go all the way to waist.

4. I added 4” to the calf length of the skirt. A narrow elastic is applied to the top waistband seam for extra security.

5. If I make this again, I will get rid of the A-line and add fabric at waist so it has gathers all around 🙂

6. So I went home Wednesday night and made another skirt, this time using the full 60” width of the fabric as my skirt and applying the pockets and gathering the 60” to the negative ease waistband. Now that’s what I had in mind!!

Ravinia Skirt, Version 1-hem width 100” plus Version 2 (being worn)-gathers at waist and 60” hem width
Pleat Detail Dress and Top/Maker’s Atelier, cotton lawn

1. Made size medium to pattern except for a few construction changes.

2. Seam allowances are 3/8” which makes it a little trickier to serge seam allowances and sew seams but I wanted a nice flat press.

3. Pattern instructions assume you will do things and doesn’t tell you to-understitching facing, finishing facing edges, pleats should have been basted to make pressing easier, etc.

4. There’s a tiny slit in sleeve opening (cuff edge) that may be to allow for more ease but it’s pretty small and not shown on pattern.

Vogue 8616 (OOP) in activewear fleece
Burda 6367 in activewear fleece

1. Both are patterns I’ve made before. The Vogue pattern was quite recent-this time I cut off the folded facing and banded the whole opening. Much better and less fussy than the folded facing.

2. The Burda pattern always feels like home to me-shoulders are a bit dropped but not too much. The whole thing feels like a cozy sweatshirt that wears a bit more like a long sleeve tee.

Wool Sweater

Karine Jalie #4242 in wool knit

1. Had to try this pattern again in something a bit more basic than the other patch work one. Still like it. No changes. Goes together well.

June Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, June 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, June 10, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, June 14, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

May Inspiration at First Sewing

Our first meeting at First Sewing after their move-a wonderful light filled space with plenty of tables!

We’re at Quilter’s Haven in Rosemount on Saturday morning (10:30), May 13, for our last May meeting.

First up, some great envelopes for PDF pattern storage

Here’s the link for the envelopes:

Lois Dress from Tessuti Fabrics
With a granddaughter on both teams, who does one cheer for? BOTH!
Simplicity 8177 long vest
Nicks Dress and Blouse by Closet Core
Back view of Nicks
Tea House Dress by Sew House Seven
Remy Top by Sew House Seven and Valencia Pant by Sewing Workshop
Cottage Shirt by Sewing Workshop and Bob Pant from StyleArc
No-Zip Skirt by Blue Dot Patterns
Highly recommended reading-for those interested 🙂

May Inspiration at Ginny’s

Wednesday was our spring meeting at Ginny’s in Rochester-

Vogue 1733 (Tilton tee that we know and love-some of us anyway 🙂
Vogue 1610 in Ginny’s waffle knit and textured silk band
Papercut Stacker Jacket
McCalls 5890 OOP but readily available online
Cutting Line Designs Simplify Your Life-shoulder button detail
Paper pieced Liberty of London quilt from
Butterick 5948 under Simplicity 8546 shirt
Pattern TBD
The popular Vogue 1733 tee with Jalie Eleonore Pant with pockets!

This Week!

Big week of Garment Sewing Group meetings and classes-

Garment Sewing Group:

Wednesday, May 10, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester

Thursday, May 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Blmgtn. and Fabric Swap!

Saturday, May 13, 10:30, Quilter’s Haven, Rosemount


Thursday, 1-3:30, Sew Social at First Sewing’s new space

Saturday, 1-4 pm, Basic & Beyond at Quilter’s Haven, Rosemount

What is seasonally appropriate? Fleece or light cotton? Depends on the day!!

Last of April Photos

This is the Lakes Makerie owner’s daughter in Burnside Bibs from Sew House Seven. Several of us bit hard and bought the pattern (I have the fabric in my stash-still some in the store when we were there. We left a few patterns at the store for you to buy or it is now on sale and they have some fun free extensions for the pattern. Hmmm…might have to get busy 🙂

Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs
Metra Blazer/Love Notions in knit
Self drafted pattern using scraps
#2 same as above
Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Fun back detail on Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Mini Marcel/Chalk and Notch
Simplicity 1318
Ashton/Helen’s Closet
Vogue 1277/multiple fabrics and stitching
McCalls 7061
OOP KwikSew with self drafted cuff
Helen’s Closet Moss Jacket
Fringe Dress/Chalk and Notch (there’s a mini version also)
Trio Shirt/Sewing Workshop and Burda 7400 pant
Great warm weather top/can’t remember pattern #
Stanton Tee/Cashmerette
Blanca Flight Suit/Closet Core
In case you need a new tool! Rave reviews!

April Garment Sewing Group

Here are the garments that Debbie and I showed at the April meeting. There will be one more post with more of your garments.

May Meetings are two weeks away-can’t wait!

Wednesday, May 10, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester

Thursday, May 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, May 13, 10:30, Quilter’s Haven, Rosemount

Debbie’s Garments:

Wrap Tee with Peplum-Burda 6443, View A-Italian Viscose with Spandex

1. This pattern was in my stash – I like wraps and I like peplums so I thought I would give it a try.

2. It is a petite pattern so no length adjustments needed. I went up a size because I didn’t want too much negative ease. Also the necklines is too low .

3. I have other wrap tee patterns to try so I will give this one up.

Bright Plaid Leather Trimmed Jacket-Verona Jacket/Sewing Workshop-cotton blend, Bemberg lining

1. I  did make a muslin and worked hard to get a good fit. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, shortened front, back and sleeve between bust and shoulder, cut width of collar and narrowed sleeve from elbow to hem.

2. I used light weight shoulder pads-the pattern does call for them.

3. Sewing with the leather was not a problem. My only struggle was where to use it on the collar-inside or out? Fabric matching was a challenge. The uneven plaid caused me to eat a lot of chocolate.

4. I would not use this pattern again but I really like the cut of the lining so I will keep it in my stash.

KwikSew 4069

Brick Jeans-Jalie Eleonore #3461-stretch denim and Deep Turquoise TurtleneckKwikSew 4069

1. Eleonore is a TNT pattern for me and the fabric feels great and a pleasure to sew.

1. Kwiksew 4069 is another TNT pattern. I added a cuff to the 3/4 length sleeves.

Kristin’s Garments:

Classic Slender Pant (worn with Butterick 6491 jacket and Vogue 9244 hack top)

Burda 7062

Gray travel fabric (polyester)

1. Added several inches-probably need a few more.

2. Sewed pants and then cut them down one size smaller. Not sure if that’s due to stretchy fabric?

3. Because the fabric is stretchy I omitted facing and zipper and serged 1”elastic to right side or waist, turned to wrong side wrapping seam allowance and topstitched down.

4. Slit has nice deep hem.

5. As usual, Burda makes a great fitting pant.

Double Wrap Top (worn with Vogue 1648 jacket)

Burda 5900

Version 1-Cotton knit, Version 2-poly knit

1. Basically you make 2 one shoulder tops and wear one over the other.

2. Version 1 has an interfaced deep folded facing. I chose to topstitch to tidy it up. The fold stretched out and the facing was tight.

3. Version 2-the facing has been trimmed off and a 1.75” band applied to “neck” edge. I like this version a lot better and could see sewing the side seams all at once to keep the shirt together. The Version 2 knit is also lighter and a better choice for the pattern.

Barry Pants/StyleArc Patterns

No stretch woven bottom weight twill or duck

1. Needed a pant to match the jacket-not quite sure why I chose something so stiff… but they still worked.

2. Straight of grain line is interesting after pants are sewn together.

Frill Neck Top

Burda 6146


1. Straightforward blouse with bust darts and facings. Frill at neck is what drew me to pattern.

2. Frill is to pattern; hook and eye replaced ties.

3. Sleeves and cuffs were too large so cut down lower half of sleeve and omitted gathered cuff replacing with elastic and casing.

Wednesday’s Sewing Inspiration

Our very spring-ish meeting at Sewing Lounge today was wonderful! Thursday we’ll be at First Sewing and fabric swapping. Saturday is at Lakes Makerie-hope you can make it!!!

Here’s the link for the YouTube video Debbie mentioned- Enjoy!

George & Ginger 40K Sway Top-free!
Sewing Workshop Maison Joggers with a few adjustments 🙂
Sewing Workshop Picasso Top-also a few adjustments
Sew House Seven Toaster One
And Toaster Two!
Beautiful trim on an Onde Jacket/Sewing Workshop
Bernie’s Award Winning Shirt
Ready to Sew Janis Top
Closet Core Sienna #1
Sienna #2
Sienna #3
Back detail
Sentosa Tank Itch to Stitch
Dawn Jeans by Megan Nielsen
McCalls 8047 Jumpsuit

The People We Rub Shoulders With-

Like Bernie, the winner of Ginny’s Fine Fabrics Shirt contest!! We are working with Bernie to teach shirt technique classes next month. Learn from a pro!! Dates and times soon-

He’ll be at Garment Sewing Group this month (although we hear he’s been relining a wool coat so might not have a new shirt) and you can congratulate him!

Garment Sewing Group this week-

Wednesday, April 12 at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul
Thursday, April 13 at First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, April 15 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Busy Sewing?

Spring sewing can be an antidote to the cold and wind (so can wine and a good movie!) See below what one mother daughter team accomplished over spring break-

We’re sewing for Garment Sewing Group which is coming up!

Wednesday, April 12 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, April 13 at First Sewing (and Fabric Swap)

Saturday, April 15 at Lakes Makerie

Hope you can make it! And Happy Easter!!

Here’s what Brenda and her daughter did during break-

She’s 5’10 with curves and chose the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans pattern
Just a couple muslins and they completed 3 pair-couldn’t wait to get back to campus to show off her handy work!
Mom did zipper fly construction-rivets were the biggest headache. Daughter did cut out, construction and multiple yards of topstitching.
Fun part was choosing orphan scraps for pocket bags and inside waistbands
And the stitch design on back pockets

Pretty awesome-great work!! Thanks for sharing-

Here’s a link to the Dawn jean pattern and the description:

Classic high-waisted rigid jean pattern set. Includes four cuts and multiple lengths for tall, regular, and cropped. Pattern features a high rise to sit on the natural waist, button fly, close fit through the waist and hips, and classic jeans details.

View A is a tapered-leg jean. View B is a straight leg jean. View C is a wide leg jean. View D is a jean short.

Inspired by our hunt to find the perfect pair of vintage jeans this pattern will fulfill all of your vintage jean dreams!

Skill: 3/5

March Garment Sewing Group/Saturday Pics

It certainly was a week of snow challenges but we came through it with lots of fun meetings and inspiration!

Here’s some of what we saw on Saturday-

Butterick 6596 in boiled wool
Jalie 2682 in activewear knit from Sewing Lounge
Butterick 6533 in textured knit
Stylearc Ada in stripe knit/Vogue 9275 in gray knit
Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch

Garment Sewing Group-March 2023

Debbie’s Garments:

Rosy Textured Zip Peplum Jacket/Burda Style 6334, View B/Cotton Dolman Tee/Jalie 3352/Cotton Spandex Khaki Trousers/Love Notions Duet Trousers/Cotton blend bottom weight twill with a little stretch

Rosy Textured Zip Peplum Jacket

1. This is my second make from this pattern. It is a favorite. 

2. The jacket is unlined but I added lining to the sleeves. It is difficult to find just the right zipper so I used a contrast and did some topstitching to match zipper tape.

3. I am not fond of the pattern construction order so I go about it my way-complete facings, and collar before side seams and sleeves.  

Dolman Tee/Jalie 3352/Cotton Spandex

1. When I came across this knit I knew it would go with my jacket. However I had barely a yard of fabric so I pulled out my TNT go-to-pattern-when-there-is-a-fabric-shortage. It works almost every time!

Khaki Trousers/Love Notions Duet Trousers/Cotton blend bottom weight twill with a little stretch

1. This muslin was a lot of work but it might become a go to pattern for woven pants.

2. I eliminated the pockets – not necessary in a muslin but it is a great feature in this pattern.

3. I added one inch to front and back rise since the pattern is designed to sit below waist.

4. I shortened the pant length by 2 inches. I added a second dart at back and increased center back seam by 1/2 inch to lessen gapping.

5. The pattern offers a pattern piece for a curvy or straight waistband. The front waist is lower than the back .  It also has a wide or straight option.

6. I added the split hem at pants bottom – a favorite of mine.

7. Overall a good pattern that I will try again.

Coral Print Blouse/Butterick 6856/Rayon Lawn from Art Gallery

1. I used view A with lots of fit adjustments – Shortened front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust. I shortened the length by 2 inches on front and back but only one inch on sleeve. The bust dart needed to be lowered and I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

2. I just barely had enough fabric so I used a contrast for placket facing and cut the cuff width in half.

3. The pattern has great fit instructions and options such as vertical darts versus tuck at back yoke. It has a tower placket but I did a continuous placket due to lack of fabric and wanting a less tailored look.

4. There is too much slip stitching in this pattern. There is a double yoke but no info on doing a burrito roll. I stitched the rs of facing to ws of blouse front for a clean finish on inside and not having to worry about securing the facing.

Kristin’s Garments:

Wool Jacket/Burda 5941, View A-short length/Wool coating

1. My goal was a soft, warm, throw-on jacket and I came pretty close!

2. The fabric has a napped side and for interest I alternated wrong side with right side on each piece. This was an interesting exercise in cutting out pieces-hint: not only must you layer fabric right side to wrong side (typically it is rs to rs or ws to ws) but you must also alternate actual pattern pieces right side up and up side down. So the upper bodice pattern piece will be face up and the lower bodice paper will be face down. Brain gymnastics!!

3. I added an interior zipper pocket.

4. My February version was too big through shoulder/bust/sleeve so I cut it down to a 14 (one size smaller) and that worked very well.

5. Fabric was too thick for machine buttonholes.


Hot Patterns Fast & Fabulous Foursquare T’s/Double sided wool knit (Vee neck)

Hot Patterns Fast & Fabulous Foursquare T’s/Double sided wool knit
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop/Rib knit wool/fleece

1. Eureka has a sloped shoulder line and the underarm curves out to give some shaping. The Hot Patterns vest has a square shoulder and straight underarm to side seam.

2. Neck and hems simply turned under on Eureka crew. Center seam makes vee a snap on Hot Patterns vest.

Helmi Trench Blouse by Named Narrow Legged Trousers/Mitchell Trousers by Closet Core/Mystery fabric

Shirt from months ago: Helmi Trench Blouse by Named-Added tucks and shortened

Narrow Legged Trousers/Mitchell Trousers by Closet Core/Mystery fabric

1. Loved these in wide leg version so had to try narrow leg. Added 1.5”-should have added a bit more to hit shoe.

2. Be sure to mark pleat marking on all pieces.

3. Fabric was linen like with a backing so kind of wonky to work with but I knew that going in.

4. Trouser facings, pleat, pocket and fly zip make a bit of extra work but worth it.

April GSG

Wednesday, April 12, 10:30, Sewing Lounge

Thursday, April 13, 10:30, First Sewing

Saturday, April 15, 10:30, TBA