Summer Serger Classes-get them while they’re hot!

Serging is hot this summer and classes fill quickly. Go to store websites to register. Hope some of them will work for you if you are learning to serge!!

1. Basic Sergery

Do you have a serger you don’t know how to use? Are you a little confused about threading? Take the fear out of serging and get comfortable with what could become your favorite sewing tool. Start as a beginner or take the class to brush up or refresh your skills. 

Skill Level: All-no serger experience necessary

Class is offered at stores-go to store website to register:

Saturday, July 11, 1:30-3:30, Open Studio Sewing, St. Louis Park SOLD OUT

Saturday, July 11, 4-6 pm, Open Studio Sewing, St. Louis Park

Saturday, July 18, 10-12 pm, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Wednesday, August. 5, 5:30-7:30 pm, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Saturday, August 22, 1:30-3:30, Sew Inviting, St. Paul

2. Hem Your Tees with the Flatlock (Serger) Stitch

Is your closet full of tees that are too long? Do you want a hem that stretches with the knit? Do you want to go beyond finishing raw edges with your serger? As long as you know how to thread your machine, this is your class 🙂

Learn the ins and outs of the flatlock stitch!

Need to know how to thread your serger or have taken Basic Sergery from Material Girls

Class is offered at following stores-go to store website to register:

Wednesday, July 15, 1-3 pm, Open Studio Sewing, St. Louis Park

Saturday, July 18, 1:30-3:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

3. Rolled Hem Serger Stitch

Finish the edges of a napkin or headscarf after you learn to set your serger up for the rolled hem stitch. Basic threading knowledge of the serger is required-you’ll learn the specifics of the rolled hem, narrow hem and picot stitch (they’re all related 🙂 Experiment with other rolled hem applications as time allows (lettuce edge, tucks, etc.)

Need to know how to thread your serger for basic 4 thread stitch or taken Basic Sergery from Material Girls.

Wednesday, August 5, 2:30-4:30, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

4. Coverstitch Mastery (More Tee Shirts to Hem?)

Got long tees?? The coverstitch is the best way to hem knits! We will learn to thread/set up your machine and some techniques that will make hemming easy. We will also explore other applications for your coverstitch machine.

Your coverstitch machine may be a stand alone machine (there is no blade that moves up and down) or part of a combination serger/coverstitch machine (there are 5 or more spool pins on your machine). If you aren’t sure, please email the instructor with a picture or the make and model at materialgirlsewing@gmail.com.

No experience with coverstitch necessary.

Class offered at following stores-please go to their website to register-

Wednesday, July 15, 9:30-11:30, Open Studio SewingSt. Louis Park

June Makes-Part Two

After Creative Sewing on Thursday, we finished off at Ginny’s in Rochester. Paulette was our wonderful cohost for June-keep scrolling down to see her and Kristin’s makes-

Sewing Therapy Rectangle Top
OOP KwikSew Jacket
Me and Miss Moore Pinafore and 10X2 Studio Patterns Badger-so cute!!
StyleArc Besharl Tee and Marley Shirt
Butterick 7080
Pants class sloper-first version
Maker’s Atelier Flared Shirt
Sewing Workshop Helix Tee
Sweatshirt Jacket with cutouts

Paulette’s Garments

Seamwork Bloom Square Neck Top and Love Notions Allegro Pants Celery Linen

Pant Alterations: Shortened 6 inches, straightened hip line, scooped back crotch 

To make wide legs version, added 1” on inseam at hem line to knee and then gradually curved in.  For the out seam added 1” at hem and blended to the hip line.

Used “TUTORIAL: Creating Pockets and Wide Legs on the Magna” Tom Kat Stitchery on YouTube. Didn’t use a drawstring and left out front pockets.  

Top Alterations: 1/2 inch narrow shoulder, 1/4 inch petite adjustment, 1/4 forward shoulder adjustment 

Put the pintucks on the inside because the thread didn’t match well  

Nice clean finish on inside

Pattern Emporium Songbird Jacket in silk cotton blend and Seamwork Julia Tank in cotton pointelle

Pattern Emporium Songbird Jacket: Alterations: 1/4 forward shoulder, 1/4” petite adjustment, raised waist by 1”

Coverup length with flared 3/4 sleeves version  

Fabric was very difficult to sew

Seamwork Julia Tank

Alterations: 1/4” forward shoulder, shortened 1” at waist

Love Notions Cadence Dress in linen

Alterations: 1/4 petite adjustment, 1” gaping neck adjustment, shortened 3”, raised waist 1”, 3/4” full bicep

Used 3/4 sleeve pattern, shortened 4” and straightened sides.  Made a 2” hem and then turned up cuff 1 1/4”.

I had blended to next size for hips and waist, but after trying the dress on took that out.

This is my TNT pattern for a basic woven top, very happy with the dress version. 

Kristin’s Garments

Megan Nielsen Hovea Jacket in wool knit and Helen’s Closet Falconer Pant barrel version in lightweight denim

1. Hovea Jacket is made for wovens but a favorite RTW sweater of mine measured almost exactly the same so went for it. Used mid length.

Pants are made to have a waistband and zip but with 6 seam allowances to adjust at waist I figured I could get by with an elastic waist. A bit tight when pulling over hips but great when wearing!

Omitted pockets but would put them in forward seam instead of hip.

Jalie Marie Claude tee in cotton knit

1. I have only made this as turtleneck so wanted to try the crew neckline. It seems lower on pattern but works great!

2. Short sleeves aren’t part of the pattern.

Butterick 6848 Sleeveless Tee in activewear knit and Closet Core Sepia in activewear stretch woven

Top:

Inspired by one of my daughter’s garments I left all hem edges raw. The fabric was cool in the hot weather and didn’t wrinkle.

This is my favorite barrel leg pant so far because the leg is slimmer. Added 2” in length and shortened front crotch by 1/2”.

McCall’s 6503 View C in rayon twill

I’ve made View A of this dress a bunch of years ago and after looking at current patterns, decided to try again. I added another ruffle of approximately the same depth.

Used my new sloper to compare and shortened the waist but that’s about it. No buttonholes!

July Meeting-cohost Sandra

Wednesday, July 8, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, July 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, July 11, Open Studio, Mpls.

No meeting in August-taking vacation :))

June Makes-Part One

Garment Sewing Group meetings started out at Lakes Makerie-we hadn’t been at the store for a few months so it was fun to see all the new fabric!

Lily Blouse by Mocha Patterns in cotton
StyleArc Smith Jacket
She traveled abroad and found the “tile” in fabric!
Sewing Workshop Charlie Bomber reimagined
Sew House Seven Remy Top and Vogue 9193 pants
Closet Core Mile End Sweatshirt and embroidery fun!!
StyleArc Anais Shirt Dress
Remake of Lands’ End tee to match the Strawberry Thieves from Liberty of London skirt
U of M Senior Capsule-congratulations!!!
Syd Graham Saundra Skirt
Tessuti Arkie Shirt
Sewing Workshop Blouse remake-Liberty?
Wiksten Top
One more Wiksten
Bog Jacket
Butterick 6784
Tessuti Patterns Kate Top
Named Airi Pants and Butterick Jacket

May’s Wednesday/Thursday Makes

Keep scrolling!! It’s so worth seeing!! Ginny’s Fine Fabrics and Creative Sewing/Apple Valley were our hosts-thanks!!

Pattern Emporium Easy Does It Skirt and Spill the Tea Bow Blouse
Lynn Weeks Frannie Dress in Liberty of London
Another Brontë Dress from Stylearc
Noodlehead Wool+Wax Tote and Helen’s Closet Winslow Culottes
Happy Feet shoes and Challenge Jacket
Beautiful African prints
Vintage coat in wool and velvet
And flannel backed satin!
The sleeve that had everyone stumped-vintage pattern 🙂
Simplicity 9041 self belted
Or purchased belt?
Thread Theory Jedediah Pant in light corduroy
Cashmerette Ahead of the Curve Kersoe Top as dress
Too much fun in Vogue 1247
Cashmerette Vernon Shirt in linen
Stylearc Emerson
Cashmerette Franconia
So good to see someone from our past!! in an OOP Vogue top and Sewing Workshop Hudson Pants
Origami Shirts
Pagoda Jacket in vintage quilt
Maria Denmark shirt
Deer and Doe Lilas Dress
Two Sewing Workshop Liberty meets Mixit Tops
Maker’s Atelier Classic Coat

Karen and Kristin’s May Garments

Karen’s Garments:

Pink and white wax print top from Vogue 8090
Back detail

This pattern was published in 2005, so time to see how it works! I want to make a patchwork boiled wool jacket sometime so I tried out this top as a possible pattern to use for that project. I think it will work very well for what I have in mind.

I made up the top just to pattern and it fit fine and is super easy. The only challenge in the project was deciding which pattern piece should be used where on this wild and non-symmetrical print.

This cotton fabric is stiff even after a couple of washings, but the pattern needs some body to hang well.

Fringe Dress from Chalk and Notch in muted multi-color wool gauze

I love this fabric but it was difficult to work with every day. It’s a woven wool gauze so it stretches out as it is handled and sewn and worn. The pattern uses 3/8” seams but I ended up using 5/8” seams everywhere to keep it somewhat in shape.

The fabric frays so much that even serging them seams didn’t work well because the serging just fell off the edge of the fabric on curves. I used French seams on the sides.

I made a 1 inch seam at the “waist” because I didn’t want this to be a dress and I was worried the seam would pull out from the weight of the skirt. I then used that wide seam to insert elastic to help keep the shape of the skirt in place.

The neckline is faced and I used a light weight cotton to help with the shape and to be less noticeable.

I shortened the “cuffs” on the sleeves and made them wider so I could gather them because I thought it would be a better design for the fabric. Instead of tabs to gather up the sleeve length I inserted a casing at the top of the shoulder and ran elastic through it.

Experimenting with custom printed fabric

Poppies and cornflower painted fabric (by my mom for a dress she made in about 1990), printed from my photo by Spoonflower.

Pattern is Tilly and the Buttons Zadie Dress

Unsurprisingly my mom painted better than Spoonflower prints. The painting works better on the dress she made than on this one.

I kept the shape of the skirt but had to cut the skirt front and skirt back into a center panel and then 2 side panels because the fabric was printed in panels.

This pattern wasn’t drafted for someone with my body shape so I added 2 inches in length of the front and back pattern pieces to account for my chest.

Kristin’s Garments:

Vogue 8640 OOP Jacket in barkcloth

Loved the style. Lengthened the sleeves by 2 “ because I didn’t like the straight line created by bodice and sleeve hem. Some attempt was made to match pattern but I’m happy with how it turned out.

Pattern is lined but nothing fancy, I used cotton-made it warmer for spring.

Stylearc Bronte Dress in navy stripe linen

I chose a stripe which made tucks easy to sew-12 in all, ascending and descending.

Back and front have center seam, which I did but placed pattern piece on fold anyway and didn’t cut. Left it pinned and sewed it up-seam finished and still in place!! Works. Great for plaids too.

Length is to pattern-size 12.

Rivi Blouse Chalk and Notch in cotton shirting

Raised the diagonal line on front bodice under the arm-like it better than original-no dart.

The back yoke is what attracted me!!

All French seams in the pattern so I went with it. The sleeves were the only things I tried to sew right sides together but I caught myself after 3”-whew!

Collar stand is always a challenge with the curved front-don’t look close!

Buttonholes were a bear-possibly Mettler thread? Needle thread broke twice, then bobbin. Switched to Gutermann? Rip, pray, sew!!

Had to try side slits because of the sewing instructions for French seams. Worked great!

Length is to pattern-I think I’ll add and inch or two next time.

Ember Sweater by SisterMag Patterns in French terry

Another wonderful sew from SisterMag! More hand sewing, which is nice on the fluffy French terry. The neck edge fits very nicely but I was surprised that the hand stitching didn’t allow as much stretch as I would like when fitting over head.

Sleeves have darts at wrist for a soft balloon shape. Fun, out of the ordinary sweatshirt!

June-cohost Paulette Finnegan

Wednesday, June 17, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Thursday, June 18, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, June 20, Ginny’s, Rochester

Saturday’s Sightings at Open Studio

Happy to be spending a sunny Saturday morning at Open Studio Sewing! This week we will be Rochester at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics on Wednesday and then back up to the Cities on Thursday at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley (don’t forget to bring fabric for swapping!) All meetings start at 10:30. Carpooling is available for Rochester-email me-materialgirlsewing@gmail.com

Store owner, Madee, wearing Soften Patterns Rue Blouse
Sewing Workshop Trio Top (note fun trim) and Plaza Pant
Syd Graham Ruby Vest
Little Lizard King Bayfield Shirt
Little Lizard King Lancaster Dress
Mash up of Sewing Workshop Mix It and Liberty Tops
English Paper Piecing and self drafted “Trader Sews Bag”
Upcycling a Sweatershirt
Cashmerette Winvale Dress
Boro Mending

Chicago Trip

Let’s start at the very beginning…

The h+h americas Fiber and Fabric Craft Show
Great people watching
Some fabric by the yard
Folkwear and Green Pepper patterns (owner on right)
Fun photo ops
Amy Butler, live and in person!
A little something I picked up at Amy Butler’s booth
Fun folksy prints
Who doesn’t love a new notion??
Couldn’t resist!

And then it was time for the Haute Couture Club of Chicago’s Fashion Show!

First a walk through Millenium Park
Yes, lunch was yummy but this is what we came for-
Yes, this is a vintage quilt-
Dress sewn entirely on the battery operated sewing machine!
The rain cleared and the sun came out!!

It was a wonderful event-so glad we went!! Who is going next year??

Frocktails!!!!

Frocktails just released the photos from the event-not sure if the general public can see them somewhere online. Here are the pics we took. What a great night of networking, ooohhhhing and aaaahhhing! Well done, organizers!!

All of us at the party!! What great representation!
Me and my daughters
Camouflage wall in her sister’s house!!

A few samples of what we saw (hard to catch a picture)

Outfit made from repurposed table linens
This dress had shimmer and shake!
Self made wedding dress and the groom accompanied her 🙂
Fun Frock!!
Hand knit dress

April’s Saturday Garments

It was fun to get back for the Saturday meeting and see some of you and your great makes!

Some great variations on the Love Notions Metra Blazer
Annie et ses coutures Mia pattern #A350
StyleArc Shacket
Simplicity 9272 Jacket in knit
Louise Cutting Anything But Ordinary
True Bias Lander Pants
Brad Pitt’s bathrobe from Fight Club (it’s for her grandson 🙂
Butterick 3131 bias woven
Jalie Genevieve Skirt and Sew House Seven Revel Topper
Sewing Workshop Now Shirt and Trio Pant