First Virtual Fashion Sewing Club a Success!

We started with ten attendees at our Tuesday Zoom meeting, ten on Thursday and then 18 on Saturday! We had new people, regular attenders and one unidentified iPHone 🙂 It was a great way for people to check us out. Everybody mentioned how nice it was to see familiar faces and talk sewing.

First, we’ll catch up on some show and tell and then you’ll see the Club sheets and photos of our garments. Looks like we may be meeting this way again in May so work on your skillz with Zoom and join us in May!

Itch to Stitch Cape Cod Capelet
Butterick Gertie 6563 and a very successful FBA learned at Treadle!
Using up small pieces and discovering the wonders of fold over elastic
Saf-T-Pockets Brief Escape Vest
Taking time to make a “fashionable” serger cover

And now Debbie and Kristin garments/Club sheets-

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club

April 2020

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy Vintage Shirt Dress:

Sew Over It Vintage Shirt Dress, View 1

Rayon Challis

1. Not sure I was into the vintage look so I made a muslin and did all my shortening adjustments between shoulder and waist and hip and hems. I also added 1 inch to waist length but removed that inch after the try on.  The upper body fit seemed a little boxy.  I feel it runs big so consider going down a size for bodice.

2. The pattern is easy and goes together quickly, especially if you adjust order of construction.

3. I made a fabric belt and used covered buttons.

4. I like the dress but will not make it again. I’m sticking to today’s current patterns.

Home Dec Jean Jacket:  

Butterick 5616, View B

Ink Bolt Ebony, 71%cotton, 12%nylon, 11% rayon

1. I have made this pattern before and was set to sew without any change to pattern.

2. I did change construction order and constructed collar before side seams.

3. The fabric is quite heavy so I limited the amount of interfacing – i.e. only interface half of cuff and band. I used a rayon lining for under collar.

4. I used all purpose thread and a size 16 needle for topstitching. My first choice would have been to use topstitch thread but none in my stash. Also as you can see I have buttonholes without buttons. The pattern calls for 3 buttonholes on cuff but I did two. I need ten 3/4” buttons for entire jacket and again none in my stash.

5. I added trim to back neck line collar. This pattern is a TNT but I do prefer the Janet Pray Islander System and her Jean Jacket pattern, especially for construction techniques.

Grey Stripe Ballet/Boatneck Tee:

Sew Over It Edie tee from Work to Weekend ebook

Cotton Jersey

1. This is a new pattern for me and I like the fit and neckline. I did do a lot of shortening and stabilized the neckline.  Other than that it went together quickly and is quite easy.

New Garments sewn with favorite TNT patterns used for the following outfits:

Grey Denim Jeans – Eleonore by Jalie, 78%cotton, 21% poly and 1% elastic

Panel Tee – Vogue 9065, View A, Rayon Jersey

Coral Blazer -Morris Blazer by  Grainline Studio, Cotton Stretch

Rusty Tee with Bow at Neckline – McCalls 6964, rayon Jersey

Plaid floral Pants- Vogue 1630, Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina, rayon, nylon and spandex

Kristin’s Garments

Denim Jacket

Fit for Art Tabula Rasa Base Pattern

Assorted denims

1. Purchased the pattern and tried on their muslins for a first fitting. Wish I would have taken more time and a few pictures!

2. Pattern is based on a kimono with a square underarm and princess seams.

3. Pattern has horizontal fitting lines that work well to divide pieces for piecing your leftovers 🙂

4. Bust dart quite low (where are my photos from the try-on?) but it fits nicely with the underarm seam.

5. Looks like I need a rounded shoulder or sway back adjustment (centerback rides up and stands out) but I added a center back seam and topstitched it so hoped that it might go away with omitting the center back seam.

Peach Wool Jacket

Fit for Art Tabula Rasa with Shirt Variations

Very soft wool in gabardine (?) weave

1. This was my attraction to the pattern-she has done all the variations for you. First bit of advice-pin the variation right on to the pattern so you don’t accidentally cut out the base piece! So the front of the jacket is on the cross grain because that is exactly what I did.

2. I added 5” to the pattern to get a longer shirt jacket.

3. Moved the dart but opted not to mess with the center back.

4. Should have messed with the center back!

5. Stand up collar doesn’t stand up much so Debbie’s (Treadle’s) beautiful floral wool doesn’t show as much as I’d hoped.

6. Bust dart placement is better but I may change it to look like a typical Burda princess dart-short and in the right place with no relationship to the underarm seam.

7. Stay tuned for further variations.

Spring Tee

Fit for Art Tabula Rasa Knits Tee

Cotton knit

1. Made the pattern using same size as jacket. Happy that the drafting skinnied up the sleeve and overall worked well as a tee.

2. Neck shaping is a bit close at sides of neck but that is easily changed.

3. Threads featured a blue faux wrap dress (painted garment was the focus) that uses this pattern with the Clever Crossings variation.

Addendum-there were some drag lines coming from the center back neck on both of the Tabula Rasa jackets which would indicate a rounded shoulder adjustment so I gave it a try one more time in a woven quilt weight cotton.

Here is the amount the horizontal line went vertical (!) on the denim jacket
New and improved rounded shoulder adjustment!
And it doesn’t swing out at the hem anymore 🙂
Note to self: make a wearable muslin in plaid so you can see lines!

May 2020 Fashion Sewing Club

Saturday, May 7, 10:30 at Treadle

Tuesday, May 12, 10:30 at Treadle

Thursday, May 14, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

April Fashion Sewing Club via Zoom!

In an attempt to establish some normalcy, we hosted Tuesday’s meeting of Fashion Sewing Club on Zoom. We’ve been meeting as Sew Social the past two Thursdays to try it out-and see familiar faces.

You, too can be a part of these meetings by going to our website and clicking the link on the calendar. Zoom can be accessed on your computer or you can download the app for your phone or iPad. Send an email to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com and we will send a copy of the Club sheets so you can follow along.

You can also send photos of your garments to show or show them from your device during the meeting. There is no charge to attend.

Tuesday’s meeting was a big success-so good to see people! Katie Knoblach showed up with her Christine Jonson Easy Coat! We did miss having lunch together afterwards 😦

Katie in Christine Jonson’s Easy Coat

Here are show and tell pics. Kristin and Debbie’s garments along with the Club sheets will be posted after the Saturday meeting.

Be bold! Try something new-or come and lend your expertise-and show up on Thursday or Saturday! See and be seen!!

Bernie’s beautiful herringbone yoke
And herringbone pocket
And a peek of red Bemberg lining
Sewing Workshop Chateau Coat
Patterns for Pirates Grandpa Cardigan-not a stellar review but it looks good!
Cashmerette Fuller Cardigan and Concord Tee-favorite pattern company!

Thanks for the great photos, all! Find your happy place-SEW ON!

Making Covid19 Masks

Perhaps you saw the great Treadle Yard Goods/Sew Good Goods article on the 10 o’clock news and are already in production mode.


Here is a link to the Allina Health site that lists donation locations.https://www.allinahealth.org/about-us/newsroom/2020/allina-health-calls-on-public-for-donations-of-face-masks
Here is a link with printed instructions on how to sew the face mask:https://www.allinahealth.org/-/media/allina-health/files/mask-sewing-how-to.pdf

Sew Good Goods instructions are here.

But in case you haven’t jumped on the bandwagon, here are some sources and inspirational photos to inspire you:

And here is the YouTube link to an instructional video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=21&v=9tBg0Os5FWQ&feature=emb_logo
Also, Craftpassion.com has a pattern and a file for using a Cricut to cut fabric. That would be a great time/hand saver!

Test model who shall remain nameless-but thanks to Sew Socialites (our group that sews on Thursdays at First Sewing)

Sew forth and conquer and reach out to your sewing friends to keep spirits up!! Or send me photos and I will post here.

First entry-Loraine has finished 20 and says you can drop off at JoAnn Edina.

March Fashion Sewing Club

March Fashion Sewing Club

Kristin’s Garments

Assembly Line Cuff Top

Bubble Top

Assembly Line Cuff Top

Crinkly cotton

  1. Seam allowances vary from 1 cm-.5 cm marked on the pattern paper. I chose to serge seams and not topstitch so as to keep the bubbliness of the fabric.
  2. Neck is supposed to be a facing but added a bias binding instead.
  3. Sleeve elastic is 1.5” instead of the 2” called for in pattern. They also want you to serge elastic to raw edge, turn and topstitch. I made a casing.
Vogue 1665

Asymmetrical Top

Vogue 1665

Textured knit

  1. Fun to assemble and wear! Hip opening is wide enough for top to drape more than hug.
  2. All openings are hemmed seam allowances.
Burda 6498

Diagonal Hem Maxi

Burda 6498

Rayon woven

  1. Dress calls for underdress/lining that would mean 3 layers for the front. Instead I only lined the back.
  2. This made assembly more of a puzzle but it worked! No zipper needed.
  3. Armholes had to be bias bound because of assembly order.
McCalls 7561

Tee Shirt Dress

McCalls 7561

Rayon knit

  1. Shortened bodice 1.5” to keep it at MY natural waistline.
  2. Pattern calls for neckline to be hemmed-trimmed CF 5/8” and added band.
  3. Added bands to sleeve.
  4. Bodice seemed quite close fitting in photo so underarm/sleeve seam is 3/8” rather than 5/8”.
McCalls 7953

Debbie’s Garments

Faux Wrap Dress:  McCalls 7953, View A, Digital Kahio Indigo, 100% Rayon

1. Shortened  length between shoulder and bust which wasn’t difficult but also shortened dress length a total of 5 inches and it was difficult due to all the angles.

2. The pattern was annoying for the following reasons: difficult to determine which pattern pieces needed for each view, notches did not match up and the sewing techniques were awkward, especially for the faux wrap on right front. Ties sewed into seams would aid in fit.

3. The jumpsuit is appealing and I should have given it a try.

4. I do like the fabric but I think my choice does not have enough body for the wrap to stand out.

Vogue 1541

Navy Check Shirt/Tunic:  Vogue 1541, Today’s Fit Sandra Betzina , View A and B combined.

Double Gauze, 100% Cotton.

1. Went down one size in bust area, shortened length between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.  Shortened placket length.

2. Interfacing , pockets and bottom band were omitted.

3. The fitting and construction techniques are excellent, especially the center front placket. However the collar is a bit of a challenge.

4. One other great feature of her pattern construction is the recommended use of modern techniques such as the serger and Steam a Seam.

Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse

Sage Green Bow Blouse: Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse, 1502, View A, Brushed Stretch silk.

1. Shortened length between shoulder and bust as well as 2 inches hem length.

2. Straightened side seams slightly between waist and hip.

3. Added a hidden button placket – check out Susan Khalje in Threads #168, Aug/Sept 2013 for a great resource and  a few good You Tube videos.

4. I have been wanting to make this up for awhile to go with a wool blazer in my closet. I used a silk because I could not find a knit in this color. I am still looking for that knit!

April 2020 Fashion Sewing Club Dates

* Please note the changes made due to holiday

Thursday, April 9, 10:30, SR Harris, Burnsville

Tuesday, April 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Saturday, April 18, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

New Tools to Try

A few of my favorite purchases from the Puyallup Sewing Expo are pictured and linked below. What are your favorites?

3M Micropore Tape
Use this instead of scotch tape to keep pattern tissue from wrinkling when you press the paper.
Amazon carries the Tape
Matte finish scotch tape
Glossy scotch tape is the worst
3M Micropore stays flat

Next up is a set of small rulers that are perfect for tracing patterns-Burdastyle patterns, here I come. I love to use rulers as I trace. My lines are so much more accurate. And there’s a plastic envelope 🙂 Again, Amazon carries these rulers.

Clover 3 Piece Set of French Curve Rulers

And last, but not least, the Hurth Ruler. It’s made in Germany and you can order it from Cochenille Design Studio. It’s great for measuring armhole depth, neck width, etc. Just so much easier than carrying two steel right angle rulers-which we used to do!

Lots of uses for this ruler!

February Club Photos

Fashion Sewing Club February 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

New Look 6469

Navy Swing Dress/Tunic

New Look 6469, View C

Rayon Ponte blend

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. Did not shorten overall length.

2. Omitted zipper and changed order of construction-sleeves to front and back then side seams.

3. Easy, quick, fun and I like the fit.

Purple Color Block Dress/Tunic

New Look 6439

New Look 6439, View D with Scoop Neck

Rayon Ponte blend

1. Front and back are on fold – to achieve blocking, I added seam allowance to front and back at fold. Left front, back and sleeve are opposite colors from the right front, back and sleeve.

2. The neckband was omitted and the neck edge is turned under and cover stitched.

3. I have made this pattern at least 3 times and it is a winner.

New Look 6394

Deep Coral Botanical Print Blouse

New Look 6394, View C

Liberty of London 100% Cotton

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back yoke and sleeve and also one inch between waist and hip on front an back. 

2. Pattern had sew on front facings – I changed to fold over to eliminate bulk. The yoke is single layer so I added yoke lining with burrito technique. This got me into a little trouble with facing so I improvised as best as I could to attach front facing to shoulder area.

3. French seams were used as often as possible as well as a bit of serging.

4. This is an easy pattern that lets the fabric stand out – exactly what I wanted.

Sewaholic Granville

Light Coral Small Print Shirt

Sewaholic 1501 Granville Fitted Shirt

100% Cotton

The fit of my shirt – princess seaming in back, shaped hem are definitely true to the Granville, however, I often combine construction techniques from Kwik Sew 3555, Nancy Zieman, Pam Howard  and other resources to create my favorite shirt.  

Kristin’s Garments

Vogue 1648

Julio Cesar Fleece Jacket

Vogue 1648

Polar fleece, activewear knit

1. Omitted back pleat because of thick fabric.

2. Kept a center back seam for shaping at neck.

3. Nice fit but maybe a bit close if using a non stretch woven as pattern calls for.

4. Omitted lining.

Turtleneck

Vogue 9337

Vogue 9337

Activewear knit

1. Pattern has a half neck piece for front of turtleneck-maybe to give better shoulder neck shaping?

2. Turtleneck isn’t meant to be turned down-one layer, hemmed at top.

3. Turtleneck is close fitting and long.

Leggings

Jalie Clara High Waisted Leggings #3887

Activewear knit

1. Center front seam is on fold and pattern has a gusset.

2. Easy to assemble. Near perfect fit. Made the version without waistband.

3. Only took in at knee-otherwise leg fit snugly.

One More Vogue Jacket

Vogue 1642

Polar fleece, activewear knit

1. Chose the longer version, View B.

2. Eliminated zip in collar.

3. Very large through shoulders and bust and then tapers to hem.

4. Collar opening too wide.

5. Sleeves are wide.

6. Pattern calls for zips in side seams, I just did slits.

March Fashion Sewing Club

Tuesday, March 10 at Treadle Yard Goods

Thursday, March 12 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Saturday, March 14 at Treadle Yard Goods

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

January Club Photos

February Club starts tomorrow!

Saturday, February 8, 10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, February 11, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, February 13, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Debbie’s Garments:

McCall 8022

Plum sweater Knit Dress/Tunic

McCalls 8022

Wool Knit Blend

1.Shortened between shoulder and bust and a total of 4 inches in dress length and 5 inches in sleeve length.

2.Eliminated pockets and constructed classic tee neckband over collar with casing or hood.

3. Quick and easy make and toasty warm!

*Turtleneck – Kwik Sew 4069, Jersey with 94% cotton, 6% elastic.

Novelty Knit Dress/Tunic

New Look 6632

Jacquard Double Knit poly/lycra

Contrast is also poly/lycra blend

1.Shortened between shoulder and bust and a total of 3 inches in dress length.

2.Pattern calls for bias tape finished neck edge – I removed seam allowance from neck opening and constructed a classic tee neckband.

3.Pockets were eliminated.

4.I was concerned about the Empire seaming but it seems to disappear in the stitching and I like the resulting fit.

McCalls 7286

Orange Sweatshirt

McCalls 7286

Organic Fleece with 50% Hemp-

30% Cotton and the rest is unknown!

Trim is Poly Nordic Sweater Knit

1.Shortened sleeves 2 inches and 1 inch in body length .

2. The fit is close fitting so I straightened the side seams from below bust to hem and used 1/4 inch seam allowances.

3.Changed order of construction  – attach sleeves to front and back first rather than sewing side and underarm sleeves and setting into top.

4.Cuffs were added to sleeves for contrast.

5.The neckline is low – as a sweatshirt I would like to have a little more coverage for warmth so I will be wearing a warm undergarment or turtleneck during our long Minnesota winters!

Jalie Marie Claude

Purple Raglan Turtleneck – Jalie Marie Claude

Dark Wash Jeans– Jalie Eleonore

Kristin’s Garments:

Simplicity 8218

Mockingjay Sweater Jacket

Simplicity 8218

Novelty wool, rayon boiled wool knit

1. Raised armhole 1” and decreased width of sleeve 1 1/2” to get a closer but not too close fit.

2. Applied the collar as a folded, finished unit. Collar seams got quite bulky.

3. Trimmed the fur from all seam allowances.

4. Eliminated all facings for obvious reasons 🙂

New Look 6632

Title Nine Dress

New Look 6632

Beyond Yoga knit

1. Pattern has great fitting options.

2. Pattern calls for separate scarf but I added an 8” cowl with a 3/8” seam allowance to neck on pattern. No other changes needed at neckline.

3. Added cuff to sleeve to make it more casual.

4. Top stitched to look more ready to wear.

5. Great winter wear fabric!

Butterick 6597

Sweater Skirt

Butterick 6597

Sweater knit, ponte, tricot

1. Pattern has wide band in shape of rectangle (not contour) which is not that great for fitting so I put together the lower skirt and it fit perfectly without band so added 1” casing.

2. No side seams in this pattern. Love it!

3. Underlined the center section with tricot in case the sweater knit stretched and then liked the feel of lining so much that I lined the rest of skirt-hand stitched to center section.

Gifting and More from November

Highlights from the Saturday and Thursday meetings in November in the spirit of the season-

Beautiful cables
Wool skirt with matched plaids 🙂
Handbag made from men’s ties
Cozy sweater

I’m sure we’ll see more this week at Fashion Sewing Club. What are you sewing??

We’ll be at SR Harris on Thursday 10:30 am and Thursday evening at First Sewing at 6:30 pm.

Last Month’s Club Photos

Here are the photos from last month’s Club, just in case you didn’t make it 🙂

Scroll to the bottom for the dates for December-starting this coming Tuesday!

Fashion Sewing Club-November 2019

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy/Gray Stripe Tunic

Butterick 6247, View C

Poly Blend Knit Jersey

1. Shortened pattern between shoulder and bust, waist and hip.

2. Raised front neckline 2 inches and removed 2 inches of width from cowl neck piece.

3. I did not construct long sleeve and short sleeve as one as pattern directs.

4. The pattern is easy, quick and fun to make. One could easily lengthen for dress.

Navy Cardi Sweater

Simplicity 8377

Cotton/Jersey with spandex

1. Pattern calls for facing along neck edge and center front. If I use this pattern again I would use a neckband rather than facing. The facing construction was difficult  due to the nature of the fabric.

2. Used coverstitch to finish facing and hems.

Navy/Gray Knit Coatigan

Alina Sewing Design Co., Fulton Sweater Blazer

100% wool Double knit; Cotton jersey for facings.

*Pattern description is a sweater blazer but I feel my fabric choice makes it more coatish than sweater.

1. Shortened for petite between shoulder and bust, waist and hips and  at hem for knee length.

2. Eliminated pockets, did not interface.

3. The pattern goes together fairly well but it is important to follow collar instructions carefully. The directions for facings at hem are a bit confusing. Also not really necessary for center back seaming since there is no shaping.

Trio of Tees:

Navy Dot- Viscose Knit, McCalls 6964

Japanese Navy Flora, Viscose Lycra, Vogue 9057, View A.  Raised back neckline 1 inch.

Art Fair Overlay Tee, Poly and Cotton jersey, McCalls 7247, view C adapted.

Kristin’s Garments:

Coatigan

Fulton Sweater-Alina Sewing/Design Co.

Ponte knits

1. Instructions clearly urge you to a stable knit so it looks coatish as Debbie said.

2. Left some edges raw to deal with bulkiness of seams.

3. Good pattern and instructions.

Striped Cardi

Simplicity 8992

Wool sweater knit

1. Wanted a close fitting sweater to go over dress. It is!

2. Nice shaping at neckline.

Patchwork Shirt Dress

Sewaholic Granville Blouse

Patchwork cotton/Liberty of London accents

1. Extended hem to make into dress. Chose this pattern for a more shaped silhouette.

2. Loved the Liberty collar and placket. Bulk of patchwork would have been difficult to work around.

Floral Cardigan

NewLook 6735

Sweater knit

1. Great pattern!! Fantastic instructions for a basic garment.

2. On the looser side of fit (sleeves especially) but still a good fit garment for comparison.

3. Adjust as needed for your purposes.

December 2019 Fashion Sewing Club

Tuesday, December 10, Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30

Thursday, December 12, SR Harris, Burnsville, 10:30

Thursday, December 12, First Sewing, Bloomington, 6:30

Saturday, December 14, Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30