Covid isn’t going to let us gather this month either!! But we’ve been having fun via Zoom so we’ll meet on Zoom again this month-
Tuesday, June 9,
Thursday, June 11
Saturday, June 13
All meetings begin at 10:30 am
This month we are asking that you register and pay ($10) through our website. Then a Zoom meeting link will be sent to you along with the Club sheets. Just a debit or credit card is all you need. Here is the link or you can click on “Fashion Sewing Club” in the menu at the top of the website.
You may attend as many sessions of the month’s meetings as you want and still just pay for one meeting. Your first meeting is free.
Another great month of meeting via Zoom! We had almost 60 people attending over the three sessions. We saw many indie patterns and always get the question about copy shop printing (the big box stores can be very expensive and knowledge varies from employee to employee) so here are are 3 best ways of getting those Pdf patterns printed on something other than 8.5”x11” sheets that you have to tape together:
1. Look for the pattern on patternreview.com. If they sell it, they will give you the option to choose having it printed for about $5 when you add it to your cart.
2. Go to pdfplotting.com and send your files to them. It takes a few minutes to figure out how to navigate in your computer and files but the price and convenience are worth it. And you can call and talk to Keith and he will help you out. Shipping time is usually a few days.
3. Thomas Printworks, 801 2nd Ave. N., Mpls.-you’ll have to go pick it up but turnaround is quick and price is great. The online form can be hard to figure out so just call 612-374-1120 and get the email address to send your files to.
And now for Debbie and Kristin’s garments for May-we hope we can actually see some of you in June as stores are opening up but we will definitely be meeting by Zoom. We’ll keep you posted.
Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
Navy Knit Blazer:
La Paz Jacket by Itch to Stitch
65% Rayon, 32%nylon and 5% spandex Ponte
1. I made a muslin first to determine fit changes and there were several- shortened between shoulder and bust, shortened jacket and sleeve length, adjusted for narrow shoulder and went down a size – I feel the pattern runs big.
2. This is PDF pattern which I try to avoid because I don’t like to trace and to determine lines and marks to follow is difficult.
3. The directions are excellent and a website is given to follow for welt pockets which is also very well done. The collar instructions are more difficult than necessary though.
4. The jacket has a back lining shield which is very nice. However, I wish I would have drafted a lining pattern. It would have been easier and given a cleaner inside look.
Floral Chambray Shirt Dress:
McCalls 7351, View B with straight hem
1. Did my standard fitting adjustments and lowered front bust dart, added 1/2” to waist length and 1 inch to hem.
2. I changed order of construction, did a burrito roll for yoke and stitched rs of button band to ws of dress front for a clean finish and no slip stitching.
3. I added a fabric tie belt to copy what I am seeing in RTW.
Coral Floral Tunic:
New Look 6439, View D with View C neckline
1. This is a TNT pattern. This is my summer version. Winter is the only season I haven’t covered and I don’t want to think about that for a lonnnnng time!
Cut Apart T-Shirt:
Green and navy solid rayon jersey, print cotton lycra from Art Gallery.
Saw this tee in a catalog and thought it would be cute and use up some of my scraps.
Palisade Pants by Papercut Patterns
1. Pattern has a nice flat front waist and fun pockets-one pattern piece is heart shaped.
2. Lots of layers in pocket hide hip issues.
3. For my figure, the front waist was high but not a deal breaker.
4. Good instructions, fun to see how a stripe worked out with the pocket pieces.
Hudson Pant by True/Bias
Rayon ponte, very soft and stretchy
1. Omitted the pockets for the sake of bulk.
2. Pattern advises making a size up if you don’t want a tight fit so I did that.
3. Made waist band smaller by 2” to reduce bulk.
SUMMER (?!) Dress
Camber Set by Merchant & Mills
Patchwork plaid cotton
1. Pattern features a bust dart that borders on a French dart.
2. Needed to do a bit of work on sleeves as they were quite slim but the armhole was on the larger size.
3. Also made the Scout Tee by Grainline and that had a flat sleeve with a close fitting armhole-so I went with Camber to get the yoke (made a rounded back adjustment easier) and used armhole from Scout.
It’s that time again! Circumstances warranted a change in dates (just the Saturday one) so we’ll be meeting via Zoom on Tuesday, May 12, Thursday, May 14 and Saturday, May 16, all at 10:30 am.
Go to our calendar page for the links to the Zoom meeting. When it’s time for the meeting, just click on the link and you will go into a waiting room and be let in. It worked very well last month with 38 total attendees. If you’d like, send me an email or text and I can send a separate link directly to you.
You can wear your garment for show and tell or email me a pic and I will have it ready to put up during the meeting.
We started with ten attendees at our Tuesday Zoom meeting, ten on Thursday and then 18 on Saturday! We had new people, regular attenders and one unidentified iPHone 🙂 It was a great way for people to check us out. Everybody mentioned how nice it was to see familiar faces and talk sewing.
First, we’ll catch up on some show and tell and then you’ll see the Club sheets and photos of our garments. Looks like we may be meeting this way again in May so work on your skillz with Zoom and join us in May!
1. Not sure I was into the vintage look so I made a muslin and did all my shortening adjustments between shoulder and waist and hip and hems. I also added 1 inch to waist length but removed that inch after the try on. The upper body fit seemed a little boxy. I feel it runs big so consider going down a size for bodice.
2. The pattern is easy and goes together quickly, especially if you adjust order of construction.
3. I made a fabric belt and used covered buttons.
4. I like the dress but will not make it again. I’m sticking to today’s current patterns.
Home Dec Jean Jacket:
Butterick 5616, View B
Ink Bolt Ebony, 71%cotton, 12%nylon, 11% rayon
1. I have made this pattern before and was set to sew without any change to pattern.
2. I did change construction order and constructed collar before side seams.
3. The fabric is quite heavy so I limited the amount of interfacing – i.e. only interface half of cuff and band. I used a rayon lining for under collar.
4. I used all purpose thread and a size 16 needle for topstitching. My first choice would have been to use topstitch thread but none in my stash. Also as you can see I have buttonholes without buttons. The pattern calls for 3 buttonholes on cuff but I did two. I need ten 3/4” buttons for entire jacket and again none in my stash.
5. I added trim to back neck line collar. This pattern is a TNT but I do prefer the Janet Pray Islander System and her Jean Jacket pattern, especially for construction techniques.
Grey Stripe Ballet/Boatneck Tee:
Sew Over It Edie tee from Work to Weekend ebook
1. This is a new pattern for me and I like the fit and neckline. I did do a lot of shortening and stabilized the neckline. Other than that it went together quickly and is quite easy.
New Garments sewn with favorite TNT patterns used for the following outfits:
Grey Denim Jeans – Eleonore by Jalie, 78%cotton, 21% poly and 1% elastic
Panel Tee – Vogue 9065, View A, Rayon Jersey
Coral Blazer -Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio, Cotton Stretch
Rusty Tee with Bow at Neckline – McCalls 6964, rayon Jersey
Plaid floral Pants- Vogue 1630, Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina, rayon, nylon and spandex
Fit for Art Tabula Rasa Base Pattern
1. Purchased the pattern and tried on their muslins for a first fitting. Wish I would have taken more time and a few pictures!
2. Pattern is based on a kimono with a square underarm and princess seams.
3. Pattern has horizontal fitting lines that work well to divide pieces for piecing your leftovers 🙂
4. Bust dart quite low (where are my photos from the try-on?) but it fits nicely with the underarm seam.
5. Looks like I need a rounded shoulder or sway back adjustment (centerback rides up and stands out) but I added a center back seam and topstitched it so hoped that it might go away with omitting the center back seam.
Peach Wool Jacket
Fit for Art Tabula Rasa with Shirt Variations
Very soft wool in gabardine (?) weave
1. This was my attraction to the pattern-she has done all the variations for you. First bit of advice-pin the variation right on to the pattern so you don’t accidentally cut out the base piece! So the front of the jacket is on the cross grain because that is exactly what I did.
2. I added 5” to the pattern to get a longer shirt jacket.
3. Moved the dart but opted not to mess with the center back.
4. Should have messed with the center back!
5. Stand up collar doesn’t stand up much so Debbie’s (Treadle’s) beautiful floral wool doesn’t show as much as I’d hoped.
6. Bust dart placement is better but I may change it to look like a typical Burda princess dart-short and in the right place with no relationship to the underarm seam.
7. Stay tuned for further variations.
Fit for Art Tabula Rasa Knits Tee
1. Made the pattern using same size as jacket. Happy that the drafting skinnied up the sleeve and overall worked well as a tee.
2. Neck shaping is a bit close at sides of neck but that is easily changed.
3. Threads featured a blue faux wrap dress (painted garment was the focus) that uses this pattern with the Clever Crossings variation.
Addendum-there were some drag lines coming from the center back neck on both of the Tabula Rasa jackets which would indicate a rounded shoulder adjustment so I gave it a try one more time in a woven quilt weight cotton.
In an attempt to establish some normalcy, we hosted Tuesday’s meeting of Fashion Sewing Club on Zoom. We’ve been meeting as Sew Social the past two Thursdays to try it out-and see familiar faces.
You, too can be a part of these meetings by going to our website and clicking the link on the calendar. Zoom can be accessed on your computer or you can download the app for your phone or iPad. Send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org and we will send a copy of the Club sheets so you can follow along.
You can also send photos of your garments to show or show them from your device during the meeting. There is no charge to attend.
Tuesday’s meeting was a big success-so good to see people! Katie Knoblach showed up with her Christine Jonson Easy Coat! We did miss having lunch together afterwards 😦
Here are show and tell pics. Kristin and Debbie’s garments along with the Club sheets will be posted after the Saturday meeting.
Be bold! Try something new-or come and lend your expertise-and show up on Thursday or Saturday! See and be seen!!
Thanks for the great photos, all! Find your happy place-SEW ON!
Seam allowances vary from 1 cm-.5 cm marked on the pattern paper. I chose to serge seams and not topstitch so as to keep the bubbliness of the fabric.
Neck is supposed to be a facing but added a bias binding instead.
Sleeve elastic is 1.5” instead of the 2” called for in pattern. They also want you to serge elastic to raw edge, turn and topstitch. I made a casing.
Fun to assemble and wear! Hip opening is wide enough for top to drape more than hug.
All openings are hemmed seam allowances.
Diagonal Hem Maxi
Dress calls for underdress/lining that would mean 3 layers for the front. Instead I only lined the back.
This made assembly more of a puzzle but it worked! No zipper needed.
Armholes had to be bias bound because of assembly order.
Tee Shirt Dress
Shortened bodice 1.5” to keep it at MY natural waistline.
Pattern calls for neckline to be hemmed-trimmed CF 5/8” and added band.
Added bands to sleeve.
Bodice seemed quite close fitting in photo so underarm/sleeve seam is 3/8” rather than 5/8”.
Faux Wrap Dress: McCalls 7953, View A, Digital Kahio Indigo, 100% Rayon
1. Shortened length between shoulder and bust which wasn’t difficult but also shortened dress length a total of 5 inches and it was difficult due to all the angles.
2. The pattern was annoying for the following reasons: difficult to determine which pattern pieces needed for each view, notches did not match up and the sewing techniques were awkward, especially for the faux wrap on right front. Ties sewed into seams would aid in fit.
3. The jumpsuit is appealing and I should have given it a try.
4. I do like the fabric but I think my choice does not have enough body for the wrap to stand out.
Navy Check Shirt/Tunic: Vogue 1541, Today’s Fit Sandra Betzina , View A and B combined.
Double Gauze, 100% Cotton.
1. Went down one size in bust area, shortened length between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment. Shortened placket length.
2. Interfacing , pockets and bottom band were omitted.
3.The fitting and construction techniques are excellent, especially the center front placket. However the collar is a bit of a challenge.
4. One other great feature of her pattern construction is the recommended use of modern techniques such as the serger and Steam a Seam.
Sage Green Bow Blouse: Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse, 1502, View A, Brushed Stretch silk.
1. Shortened length between shoulder and bust as well as 2 inches hem length.
2. Straightened side seams slightly between waist and hip.
3. Added a hidden button placket – check out Susan Khalje in Threads #168, Aug/Sept 2013 for a great resource and a few good You Tube videos.
4. I have been wanting to make this up for awhile to go with a wool blazer in my closet. I used a silk because I could not find a knit in this color. I am still looking for that knit!
April 2020 Fashion Sewing Club Dates
* Please note the changes made due to holiday
Thursday, April 9, 10:30, SR Harris, Burnsville
Tuesday, April 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Saturday, April 18, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul