More November Inspiration

November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!

December’s meetings are:

Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle

Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)

Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.

Hope to see you!!

Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing Workshop
And then there were two…
Light and Shadows from Cutting Line Designs
A chic thriftstore upcycle
An oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!

November’s Garments

Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-

Garment Sewing Group

November 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress

McCalls 7470, View B

Fine wale corduroy

  1. This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier.  My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
  2. It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
  3. I made the following construction changes:  burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
  4. I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric.  A fun make.

Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt

My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)

adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011, 

Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.

Cotton/linen blend

  1. While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try. 
  2. To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
  3. I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.

Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi

Simplicity 9374, View D

Light weight organic cotton fleece

  1. Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
  2. I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated  pockets and interfacing. 

Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)

McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848

Cotton knit with very little stretch.

This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!

Kristin’s Garments:

Casual Chanel 

Vogue 7975

Navy wool/multicolor wool

  1. I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
  2. Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
  3. Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
  4. Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
  5. Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
  6. Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.

Uniform Pinafore?? 

The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills

Cotton corduroy

  1. I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
  2. Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
  3. Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
  4. Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂

Floral/Spider Blouse

KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy

Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand

  1. After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time. 
  2. No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.

Slippery Leggings

Clara Leggings by Jalie

Activewear knit

  1. Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
  2. Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!

December 2021 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Saturday Meeting at Treadle

Saturday, Nov. 13, 10:30, will be the final installment of November’s Garment Sewing Group. Here is a sampling of what we saw at First Sewing on Thursday-and fabric was swapped-thanks to all who participated!!!

From quilt

To quilted jacket

An original Rebecca Anderson quilt design called Star Song Modern Quilt available from rebeccaruthdesigns.com

Mani’s Blouse from Silhouette Patterns

Proud grandma pillow 🙂

October Garment Sewing Group Starts Saturday

The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!

So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am

Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com

Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!

A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!

September meetings start Wednesday/Inspiration from August

Looking forward to seeing what everyone’s been sewing! Meetings start at 10:30 on Wednesday, September 8th at The Sewing Lounge, 987 Selby Av., St. Paul, (there was a typo in my last email).

Then we’ll be at First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday at 10:30 and follow up with Sew Social from 1-4 pm.

Saturday’s meeting will be at Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am.

And a few pics from last month—

A great way to narrow a pant leg
Harrington Jacket

August Garments

Debbie’s Garments- Topping off summer!

Sea Glass Dotted Swiss Peplum Blouse

Simplicity 8384, View D

Cotton

1. Did standard petite adjustments and lowered bust dart.

2. Inserted button placket rs facing to ws shirt, opposite of instructions. I feel it gives a clean finish on both ws and rs, easier to topstitch and no slip stitching.

3. Did split hem on sleeve but did not follow pattern instructions – see sample.

4. Serged clear elastic along back waist rather than making a casing as pattern directs.

Coral Asymmetrical Placket Blouse

Grainline Studio Augusta Shirt

Tencel and cotton twill

1. Made too many petite adjustments – my fault, not a good choice for me.

2. Good construction techniques.

3. I find their sizing difficult – too much of a gap between body measurements and finished measurements.

4. Chose not to turn up cuff on sleeve.

Plaid Tunic

Simplicity 9130

Linen

1.Did standard petite adjustments as well as narrow shoulder.

2. Sewed the rs of facing to ws of front. Again, clean finish in and out, easier to topstitch and gives the top some detail.

3. Did bias edge finish on armhole as pattern directs.

Rusty Dolman Tee

Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops

Cotton Modal

1. Did standard petite adjustments but feel I would shorten in length and maybe go down a size. 

2. Pattern finishes all edges with fold over and topstitch. I added a neckband at neck edge and then did fold and topstitch on hems.

Kristin’s Garments

Summer Dress

Vogue 1698, View A

Seersucker

1. Constructed per instructions except didn’t interface the seersucker collar or placket. Collar would have been better with some interfacing.

2. Placket was straightforward-my topstitching of bottom of placket was not 🙂

3. Fit issues centered around bust/underarm/shoulder area. Should the horizontal seam be at bust point??? Took in side seams to underarm 3/4” and moved top of sleeve in 2” to alleviate sagging.

WearWithAll Skort

Jalie 2796 Multi-Sport Skort

Navy activewear knit

1. Lengthened 3” and chose the wider waistband.

2. Compression shorts are compressing! Recut 4 sizes up and was happy with less compression.

3. No elastic in waistband is really comfortable.

4. Next time I will make the short from a lighter fabric-whole skort is heavy.

5. Love the pockets and side detail.

Summer Jumpsuit

Kielo Jumpsuit by Named

Black cotton knit and floral novelty knit

1. Just had to try this jumpsuit after seeing it on Brenda. Perfect for relaxing after a hot summer day or, with this floral, going out on the town. Not too close fitting but not too baggy.

2. Sizing is according to bust as there’s ample space everywhere else 🙂 You want shoulder/bust area to fit.

3. Pattern directions are awesome with the neck/shoulder area all finished off with burrito roll techniques and under stitching. Facings need to be tacked down.

4. Fit was spot on for my chosen size-underarms and all-unless it starts growing as the day goes on.

5. Back closure was raised about 4” to cover straps.

July Garments from Debbie and Kristin

July was such an amazing month for inspiration from all of you that our garments feel like an after thought but here goes :))

Kristin’s Garments

Summer Blouse, Burda 6914, Gray silk print

1. Made to pattern-love the dart placement. Great summer top for drapey fabric.

2. Forgot to trim 3/8” from neck edge-Burda learning opportunity!

Summer Shirt, Melody Dolman from Love Notions, Rayon stripe

1. Made to pattern-should have added at hips.

2. Sleeve cuff is sewn on and then flipped up-I didn’t like that look so let it hang.

3. Serged the collar on all the way across neck instead of pattern directions for back neck.

4. Kalle Shirt from Closet Core is similar-this shirt is everywhere in RTW.

Shirt Dress, Helmi Trench Shirt and Dress from Named Patterns, Stretch shirting

1. Measured favorite JJill shirt and tried to copy.

2. Ended up with a bit more ease at hips than may be necessary.

3. Added vertical tucks to back to bring in a bit.

4. Moved waist seam up two inches to copy JJill.

5. Made collar a right angle instead of curve at neck edge-this is the narrow version-pattern includes a collar that will fold over.

6. Omitted the hidden placket. Quick and easy “fold twice and topstitch” placket-as long as your fabric is acceptable on wrong side.

7. This will be a favorite pattern!! Sleeves and shoulders fit well!

8. Factory Dress from Merchant & Mills is similar.

Debbie’s Garments

Black Hem Slit Pants, Love Notions Sabrina Slims Pant, Rayon blend ponte

1. I made View A-flat front and eliminated front and back pockets. Since this was my first make from this pattern I wanted to just do the basic to determine alterations and Ethan consider options such as the seaming down the front and back, zips at leg bottom and welt pockets in the future.

2. This was quick and easy. Great directions and construction techniques.

3. I will need to remove some length between my bottom and knee and knee and hem. I will also decrease the width of the waistband. I find 2” is too wide and I prefer 1.5” elastic so waistband needs adjusting. Upper side seams are a little too curvy for me so I straightened them about 6”from the hip toward the hem.

(See photo above)

Purple Print Top With Contrast Trim, New Look 6808, View A, adapted, Rayon twill for shirt body, linen blend for contrast

1. A TNT pattern that meets my needs every once in awhile. I like the fish eye darts on front and back for shaping.

2. Instead of facing for the neck edge I did a serged bias wrapped edge. I replaced the slit hemmed sleeves and added cuffs to break up the busy print.

Camel Herringbone Woven Joggers, Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants, Linen blend (cotton or rayon?)

1. This is my fourth make from this pattern and I can see more coming. My first pair was a navy rayon blend made to pattern without cuffs. For May I used a light weight denim with cuffs but did not add draw string. I used a light weight French terry for the third pair. Even though I went down a size a more stable knit like a ponte would be better. I use that make for pj’s-I will stick with wovens from here on out.

2. I made the following fit adjustments-increased back darts by 1/4”, increased CB seam 5/8” from waist to crotch curve and narrowed width of waistband 1/2”.

3. Again, no draw string-flat center front which eliminates bulk.

(See photo above)

Border Print Raglan Tee-Butterick 6207, View A w/o band-Rayon jersey

1. This pattern is great for a quick and easy tee that has some shape and flows.

2. The fabric makes the tee but I didn’t want it to be too much so I worked around the print for solid sleeves and band. Another TNT pattern.

Makes as Seen at “Lakes”

July’s Wednesday Garment Sewing Group was held at Lakes Makerie-“on the go” as we dubbed it. It was a great turnout and everyone seemed to have multiple makes so here we go-(yes, this is August and I am playing catch up-internet issues!)

Fearless leader, Sarah, in the Bijou Beret from Untitled Thoughts
Lottie Tunic from Christine Haynes
Vogue 1297-a silhouette that popped up again later
Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch
Rye Vest from By Hand
Butterick 5891
Hoodie from Silhouette Patterns
Alabama Chanin inspired work
Nani Iro Jumpsuit X 2
Vogue 8798
Now Shirt by Sewing Workshop
Kielo Jumpsuit by Named Patterns
Muse’s Jenna Cardigan

Makes as Seen at “Lakes”

July’s Wednesday Garment Sewing Group was held at Lakes Makerie-“on the go” as we dubbed it. It was a great turnout and everyone seemed to have multiple makes so here we go-(yes, this is August and I am playing catch up-internet issues!)

Fearless leader, Sarah, in the Bijou Beret from Untitled Thoughts
Lottie Tunic from Christine Haynes
Vogue 1297-a silhouette that popped up again later
Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch
Rye Vest from By Hand
Butterick 5891
Hoodie from Silhouette Patterns
Alabama Chanin inspired work
Nani Iro Jumpsuit X 2
Vogue 8798
Now Shirt by Sewing Workshop
Kielo Jumpsuit by Named Patterns
Muse’s Jenna Cardigan