September Garment Sewing Group

Things didn’t change much under our new name-we still were inspired by everyone’s creativity and interest! People attended from Texas, Alaska and Florida! That’s the beauty of Zoom and why we intend to continue at least one Zoom meeting after we are back to normal (don’t go there 🙂

Garment Sewing Group

September 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

Coral Novelty Knit Casual Jacket-

NewLook 6251, View A

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

2. Used mesh for pocket bags and cut 4 rather than 2 as pattern directs. I intended to increase pocket size to enable pocket bag to be caught in the stitching of hem and zipper but I forgot! Because of that the pockets needed to be topstitched to garment front.

3. I inserted invisible zippers in princess seam rather than exposed zipper at pocket as pattern directs. I also applied a contrast binding to zipper tape.

4. The fabric was difficult to work with. The serger chewed more than cut and the walking foot was necessary for all other stitching.

Kristin’s Cropped Rust Jacket and Debbie’s Navy Version-

Closet Core Sienna Maker Jacket, View C

Pendleton Wool

1. I did not make a muslin for this jacket but instead did my usual fitting adjustments.

2. I should’ve made a muslin – so I did before I made the second jacket. The new adjustments included shortening between shoulders and bust one inch, forward shoulder and narrow shoulder even though it is a drop sleeve.

3. The jacket is for the intermediate sewer and it is extremely important to follow instructions especially when making back placket and when to put buttonhole on sleeve!

4. I did make some changes in construction – interfaced pocket hems, did a single one inch hem rather than a double fold hem, and horizontal buttonholes on back placket rather than vertical.

5. I am very pleased with my second make and grateful to have a personal fit master. I was able to thank her with an almost finished Rust Sienna Jacket that fits her nicely!

6. Kristin’s addendum-As long as you have another body-you don’t need to make a muslin 🙂 I am very happy with my Sienna Maker Jacket! I added buttons and a one inch band to the sleeves with not too much left for a hem but it worked and will be a fun fall jacket. Thanks, Debbie!

Terracotta Water Wave Jacket-

Itch to Stitch Hvar Jacket

Soft Gauze Sweater Knit

1. I used the wrong fabric for this pattern accidentally! I had intended to use this fabric for another project and somehow got the two mixed up and didn’t discover my mistake until it was too late. Oh well.

2. The pattern calls for drapey woven or stable knit. The sweater knit did not fit that category so I adjusted by eliminating the darts and thinking of the garment as a sweater and not a jacket. I also shortened the length between shoulder and bust and went down a size by taking large seam allowances.

3. This is a quick and easy make. The entire garment was serged except for topstitching the princess seams. An afternoon make.

Kristin’s Garments:

Warmer Weather Fall Blouse

Cielo Top and Dress by Closet Core Patterns, View B

Rayon woven

1. I’ve made the dress before and knew that it was a bit broad at the neck and shoulders so placed center fronts and backs on fold but then rotated keeping waist point on the fold but making neck a bit smaller and hips wider. Kind of a quick fix but it worked very well.

2. The short yokes at the shoulder I cut four and doubled them to give a little more stability.

3. I tried it as a longer blouse but decided I like short better in this blouse.

4. Pattern directions great. I used contrast inside the lantern sleeve.

5. A vest with deep armholes would go nicely over this blouse-if it stays this cold!!

Fall Ankle Pants

Pietra Pants by Closet Core Patterns, View B

Light coral denim

1. Nice fitting pattern right out of the envelope. Extended the center back by curving seam allowances across back waistband and waist to 1/4” at center back and back to 5/8” at side seam.

2. Pockets take a little bit of puzzling but worth the work.

3. The treatment of the elastic and back waistband at side seams makes for a bit of bulkiness.

4. Back waistband also got a bit bulky as the pattern is high waisted and there’s a lot to gather. I stitched the elastic down and pressed it to try to flatten.

5. View B is a cropped length and View A is longer.

6. Fun fall pant until socks are a necessity.

Eileen Fisher Dress Copy

Jalie Nicole Dress and Top

Ponte knit

1. Thought the EF dress would be a great fall wardrobe staple but as I looked at the pattern measurements it became clear that it was a very close fitting pattern. So I sized up. Kind of nice that the pattern pieces for bodice and skirt are two separate pieces and then joined when you lay them on fabric to cut out.

2. First version (in red) was more body skimming than I wanted so I dropped the armhole, added at side seams and used a larger sleeve.

3. Second version is closer to what I was looking for. The bust dart is quite big and ends up pokey but I will most likely be wearing the dress under a jacket like my Sienna Maker Jacket by Debbie 🙂 and I’m not going to stress about it. I already spent the better part of a day trying to remedy the problem and ended up extending the dart by 1/2” and giving it a good press!

October Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:

Thursday,October 8, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Saturday, October 10, 10:30 at Treadle , St. Paul

Tuesday, October 13, 10:30 at Treadle, St. Paul

Wardrobe Planning Class on Zoom

It’s too late to catch our Zoom Basic & Beyond Sergery class (it started today!!) but the Wardrobe Planning class is this Saturday, 8/22, from 9:30-12:30 on Zoom.

All you need is your jumble of ideas about what you need for fall and managing most of your life from home (!). A few pictures of things you’d like to make or fabrics that are asking to be sewn would be helpful too.

We’ll talk about planning and execution 🙂 and help you define a wardrobe capsule that works for your life.

I’m super excited because I finally created a My Body Model croquis so I can do some drawing for my fall wardrobe plan. Not sure it will be social media worthy but I’m hoping it will inspire me and maybe you!

Call Treadle at 651-698-9690 to register and Debbie and I will send you the link and see you on Zoom!

Always make new mistakes 🙂

More August Inspiration

Silk kimono New Look 6378
Bomber jacket KwikSew 2161
Bomber’s beautiful lining!
Sewing Workshop Eureka Top hack
Very successful Pietra Pants-Closet Core
Olive Top from Megan Nielsen
Rhapsody Blouse from Love Notions
McCalls 7409 jumpsuit
Grainline Studio Willow Tank plus 5 inches

August Club Photos

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club

August 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

New Look 6449, View C

Summer Floral Shirtdress:

New Look 6449, View C, Stretch Cotton.

1. This garment is similar to the shirtdress I made in June (McCalls 7351) but less shaping due to no waist definition. Also it was a better choice for the stretch cotton fabric.

2. I shortened length between shoulder and bust but not dress length.

3. I omitted the chest pocket – not a fan.

4. I made several construction changes: -added a contrast yoke facing using the hot dog roll method – a little tricky due to dress length – just go slow when turning to right side.

-Used Grainline neck stand and collar method rather than New Look’s method.

– Omitted cuff and tab on sleeve and made short sleeve length with roll up cuff.

– Used straight hem rather then curved as pattern shows.

5. Although I like the pockets, I am not a fan of floating pockets. I may topstitch them in place.

New Look 6449

Two More Backyard Tee-Shirt Dresses and New Look 6449:

Border print, Viscose Rayon, View C.

1. Cut cross grain to take advantage of border.

2. Scooped out front neckline- maybe too much!

3. Omitted cuff on sleeve.

Green Sleeveless, Cotton Jersey with 5% Spandex.

1. Cut cross grain for vertical stripe look.

2. Used chest pocket for hip pockets, the others were too large.

3. Not a fan of pattern armhole bands – would do differently next time……

There will not be a next time! This pattern has run its course for the season and I have used up my summer fabric so I am ready to move on.

Simplicity 1560

Rusty Floral Skirt:

Simplicity 1560, View B, Rayon Challis

I made this skirt to pattern. It is quick and easy . I like the flirty panels and no waistband with facing finish.

Kristin’s Garments:

Vogue 1701

Summer Woven Cowl Blouse

Vogue 1701, View B, Cotton Lawn

1. Cowl has an invisible zip which went in very well.

2. Gathering at neck.

3. Cuff is supposed to button with a notched gap hem on sleeve but I shortened the cuff instead and applied in the round. Ended up pleating cuff and sewing on buttons to make cuff smaller.

4. Blouse is wide at hem so no alterations for hips 🙂

5. After being so proud of my zip application, it is awkward to wear and the cowl will fit over my head without needing a zip!

6. I like the blouse-a little style and cool to wear-just won’t put in a zipper again!

McCalls 8042

Ruffles Everywhere!

McCall’s 8042, View A, Rayon Challis

1. The photo on the cover appealed to me so I gave it a try 🙂

2. Front is cut single layer with lots of stitching lines and cutting lines to transfer. I folded on center and got pretty close.

3. Sleeve ruffle ends up as part of armhole and doesn’t meet at underarm so a small piece of bias tape is added but it finished nicely, just puttsy.

4. I needed more room at hips so whacked it off, added more and ruffled it. A very gathered month 🙂

5. Both the sleeves and front/back are squares at the neck-no shaping in toward neck so when you pull in gathers at neck, there’s a lot of fabric. The height of the underarm is also determined by how much you pull up the neck. There were no suggestions as to how much it should be pulled in. I have used a stretchy cord so I can tie it where I want it and still get it over my head and not adjust every time.

6. The blouse is a keeper-the pattern is not 🙂

Merchant & Mills Factory Dress

Linen Work Dress

Merchant & Mills Factory Dress, Crinkly Linen

1. Skirt front has two small pleats and is wider than skirt back so added a bit to the back in the form of two small pleats.

2. Nice fit, loose fitting but with a bust dart. Sleeves fold up as per pattern. No fit adjustments.

3. Added contrast pocket and facing for fun.

4. Pattern drafting was great. Pattern directions more for a sewist with experience but definitely a keeper!

September Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:

*Second Tuesday date is changed due to labor Day weekend

Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Treadle

Tuesday, September 12, 10:30 at Treadle

Thursday, September 15, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

August Club is underway!

Tomorrow (Tuesday) is our second meeting and then we’ll also have Thursday morning at 10:30. We are meeting by Zoom again this month-you can register on the website by clicking on Fashion Sewing Club.

And here’s the Saturday sew and tell-

The ever popular Carolyn Pajamas!
Olive Blouse by Megan Nielsen
Simplicity 8798
Sports bra from Greenstyle Creations

Hope you’ll join us Tuesday or Thursday!!

June Fashion Sewing Club starts tomorrow!

Covid isn’t going to let us gather this month either!! But we’ve been having fun via Zoom so we’ll meet on Zoom again this month-

Tuesday, June 9,

Thursday, June 11

Saturday, June 13

All meetings begin at 10:30 am

This month we are asking that you register and pay ($10) through our website. Then a Zoom meeting link will be sent to you along with the Club sheets. Just a debit or credit card is all you need. Here is the link or you can click on “Fashion Sewing Club” in the menu at the top of the website.

You may attend as many sessions of the month’s meetings as you want and still just pay for one meeting. Your first meeting is free.

Sewing up a storm!?!?

Thursday’s Club Inspiration

Another fun Zoom meeting with new faces and familiar faces-so much fun to connect and see what everyone’s been doing!

Last chance to join in is Saturday at 10:30-email me (materialgirlsewing@gmail.com) for link or go to calendar on website and click on link under Fashion Sewing Club event.

A new face for us in her cotton Vogue dress-side zip and sleeve length added.
Cashmerette Tobin Sweater
Vogue 7954 men’s shirt in handkerchief linen
Sleeve detail
Jalie Nursing Tee and McCalls 6996 Cardigan
McCalls 6964

May Fashion Sewing Club Dates

It’s that time again! Circumstances warranted a change in dates (just the Saturday one) so we’ll be meeting via Zoom on Tuesday, May 12, Thursday, May 14 and Saturday, May 16, all at 10:30 am.

Go to our calendar page for the links to the Zoom meeting. When it’s time for the meeting, just click on the link and you will go into a waiting room and be let in. It worked very well last month with 38 total attendees. If you’d like, send me an email or text and I can send a separate link directly to you.

You can wear your garment for show and tell or email me a pic and I will have it ready to put up during the meeting.

Happy Mother’s Day!!

Flowers or FABRIC!!

March Fashion Sewing Club

March Fashion Sewing Club

Kristin’s Garments

Assembly Line Cuff Top

Bubble Top

Assembly Line Cuff Top

Crinkly cotton

  1. Seam allowances vary from 1 cm-.5 cm marked on the pattern paper. I chose to serge seams and not topstitch so as to keep the bubbliness of the fabric.
  2. Neck is supposed to be a facing but added a bias binding instead.
  3. Sleeve elastic is 1.5” instead of the 2” called for in pattern. They also want you to serge elastic to raw edge, turn and topstitch. I made a casing.
Vogue 1665

Asymmetrical Top

Vogue 1665

Textured knit

  1. Fun to assemble and wear! Hip opening is wide enough for top to drape more than hug.
  2. All openings are hemmed seam allowances.
Burda 6498

Diagonal Hem Maxi

Burda 6498

Rayon woven

  1. Dress calls for underdress/lining that would mean 3 layers for the front. Instead I only lined the back.
  2. This made assembly more of a puzzle but it worked! No zipper needed.
  3. Armholes had to be bias bound because of assembly order.
McCalls 7561

Tee Shirt Dress

McCalls 7561

Rayon knit

  1. Shortened bodice 1.5” to keep it at MY natural waistline.
  2. Pattern calls for neckline to be hemmed-trimmed CF 5/8” and added band.
  3. Added bands to sleeve.
  4. Bodice seemed quite close fitting in photo so underarm/sleeve seam is 3/8” rather than 5/8”.
McCalls 7953

Debbie’s Garments

Faux Wrap Dress:  McCalls 7953, View A, Digital Kahio Indigo, 100% Rayon

1. Shortened  length between shoulder and bust which wasn’t difficult but also shortened dress length a total of 5 inches and it was difficult due to all the angles.

2. The pattern was annoying for the following reasons: difficult to determine which pattern pieces needed for each view, notches did not match up and the sewing techniques were awkward, especially for the faux wrap on right front. Ties sewed into seams would aid in fit.

3. The jumpsuit is appealing and I should have given it a try.

4. I do like the fabric but I think my choice does not have enough body for the wrap to stand out.

Vogue 1541

Navy Check Shirt/Tunic:  Vogue 1541, Today’s Fit Sandra Betzina , View A and B combined.

Double Gauze, 100% Cotton.

1. Went down one size in bust area, shortened length between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.  Shortened placket length.

2. Interfacing , pockets and bottom band were omitted.

3. The fitting and construction techniques are excellent, especially the center front placket. However the collar is a bit of a challenge.

4. One other great feature of her pattern construction is the recommended use of modern techniques such as the serger and Steam a Seam.

Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse

Sage Green Bow Blouse: Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse, 1502, View A, Brushed Stretch silk.

1. Shortened length between shoulder and bust as well as 2 inches hem length.

2. Straightened side seams slightly between waist and hip.

3. Added a hidden button placket – check out Susan Khalje in Threads #168, Aug/Sept 2013 for a great resource and  a few good You Tube videos.

4. I have been wanting to make this up for awhile to go with a wool blazer in my closet. I used a silk because I could not find a knit in this color. I am still looking for that knit!

April 2020 Fashion Sewing Club Dates

* Please note the changes made due to holiday

Thursday, April 9, 10:30, SR Harris, Burnsville

Tuesday, April 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Saturday, April 18, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul