Things didn’t change much under our new name-we still were inspired by everyone’s creativity and interest! People attended from Texas, Alaska and Florida! That’s the beauty of Zoom and why we intend to continue at least one Zoom meeting after we are back to normal (don’t go there 🙂

Garment Sewing Group

September 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

Coral Novelty Knit Casual Jacket-

NewLook 6251, View A

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

2. Used mesh for pocket bags and cut 4 rather than 2 as pattern directs. I intended to increase pocket size to enable pocket bag to be caught in the stitching of hem and zipper but I forgot! Because of that the pockets needed to be topstitched to garment front.

3. I inserted invisible zippers in princess seam rather than exposed zipper at pocket as pattern directs. I also applied a contrast binding to zipper tape.

4. The fabric was difficult to work with. The serger chewed more than cut and the walking foot was necessary for all other stitching.

Kristin’s Cropped Rust Jacket and Debbie’s Navy Version-

Closet Core Sienna Maker Jacket, View C

Pendleton Wool

1. I did not make a muslin for this jacket but instead did my usual fitting adjustments.

2. I should’ve made a muslin – so I did before I made the second jacket. The new adjustments included shortening between shoulders and bust one inch, forward shoulder and narrow shoulder even though it is a drop sleeve.

3. The jacket is for the intermediate sewer and it is extremely important to follow instructions especially when making back placket and when to put buttonhole on sleeve!

4. I did make some changes in construction – interfaced pocket hems, did a single one inch hem rather than a double fold hem, and horizontal buttonholes on back placket rather than vertical.

5. I am very pleased with my second make and grateful to have a personal fit master. I was able to thank her with an almost finished Rust Sienna Jacket that fits her nicely!

6. Kristin’s addendum-As long as you have another body-you don’t need to make a muslin 🙂 I am very happy with my Sienna Maker Jacket! I added buttons and a one inch band to the sleeves with not too much left for a hem but it worked and will be a fun fall jacket. Thanks, Debbie!

Terracotta Water Wave Jacket-

Itch to Stitch Hvar Jacket

Soft Gauze Sweater Knit

1. I used the wrong fabric for this pattern accidentally! I had intended to use this fabric for another project and somehow got the two mixed up and didn’t discover my mistake until it was too late. Oh well.

2. The pattern calls for drapey woven or stable knit. The sweater knit did not fit that category so I adjusted by eliminating the darts and thinking of the garment as a sweater and not a jacket. I also shortened the length between shoulder and bust and went down a size by taking large seam allowances.

3. This is a quick and easy make. The entire garment was serged except for topstitching the princess seams. An afternoon make.

Kristin’s Garments:

Warmer Weather Fall Blouse

Cielo Top and Dress by Closet Core Patterns, View B

Rayon woven

1. I’ve made the dress before and knew that it was a bit broad at the neck and shoulders so placed center fronts and backs on fold but then rotated keeping waist point on the fold but making neck a bit smaller and hips wider. Kind of a quick fix but it worked very well.

2. The short yokes at the shoulder I cut four and doubled them to give a little more stability.

3. I tried it as a longer blouse but decided I like short better in this blouse.

4. Pattern directions great. I used contrast inside the lantern sleeve.

5. A vest with deep armholes would go nicely over this blouse-if it stays this cold!!

Fall Ankle Pants

Pietra Pants by Closet Core Patterns, View B

Light coral denim

1. Nice fitting pattern right out of the envelope. Extended the center back by curving seam allowances across back waistband and waist to 1/4” at center back and back to 5/8” at side seam.

2. Pockets take a little bit of puzzling but worth the work.

3. The treatment of the elastic and back waistband at side seams makes for a bit of bulkiness.

4. Back waistband also got a bit bulky as the pattern is high waisted and there’s a lot to gather. I stitched the elastic down and pressed it to try to flatten.

5. View B is a cropped length and View A is longer.

6. Fun fall pant until socks are a necessity.

Eileen Fisher Dress Copy

Jalie Nicole Dress and Top

Ponte knit

1. Thought the EF dress would be a great fall wardrobe staple but as I looked at the pattern measurements it became clear that it was a very close fitting pattern. So I sized up. Kind of nice that the pattern pieces for bodice and skirt are two separate pieces and then joined when you lay them on fabric to cut out.

2. First version (in red) was more body skimming than I wanted so I dropped the armhole, added at side seams and used a larger sleeve.

3. Second version is closer to what I was looking for. The bust dart is quite big and ends up pokey but I will most likely be wearing the dress under a jacket like my Sienna Maker Jacket by Debbie 🙂 and I’m not going to stress about it. I already spent the better part of a day trying to remedy the problem and ended up extending the dart by 1/2” and giving it a good press!

October Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:

Thursday,October 8, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Saturday, October 10, 10:30 at Treadle , St. Paul

Tuesday, October 13, 10:30 at Treadle, St. Paul