Happy to be spending a sunny Saturday morning at Open Studio Sewing! This week we will be Rochester at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics on Wednesday and then back up to the Cities on Thursday at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley (don’t forget to bring fabric for swapping!) All meetings start at 10:30. Carpooling is available for Rochester-email me-materialgirlsewing@gmail.com

Let’s start at the very beginning…

And then it was time for the Haute Couture Club of Chicago’s Fashion Show!

It was a wonderful event-so glad we went!! Who is going next year??

Frocktails just released the photos from the event-not sure if the general public can see them somewhere online. Here are the pics we took. What a great night of networking, ooohhhhing and aaaahhhing! Well done, organizers!!

A few samples of what we saw (hard to catch a picture)

It was fun to get back for the Saturday meeting and see some of you and your great makes!

It takes a village, right? So thankful for all who pitched in and understood so I could take care of grandbabies!

Debbie’s Garments:

The pattern is designed for a 5ft., 7” body – needless to say I need to make lots of length adjustments. Also her measurements are based on upper bust numbers because there is no shaping to the top.

I decreased length between the shoulder and armhole, between the waist and bust and at hemline. I also shortened the sleeve length.

I did a narrow shoulder adjustment even though the shoulder is slightly dropped.

I do like the design of this top – it has sleeve and length variations. It slips over the head without buttons or a placket. There is a center front seam variation as well a specific Full Bust pattern piece.

The construction methods for her patterns are great. There aren’t any hand sewing techniques and she has “an integrated” cuff method where the hem is part of the construction.

The top is an easy, quick sew and even though I had some difficulty deciding what size to make and the V-neck is a little too deep it is a great patten in all aspects.

Purple Jeans–see photo above-

This is a TNT (Tried and True) pattern for me.

The fabric was from a swap and I thought it would complement my Popover Top.

It had been awhile since I made this pattern and I found that I needed to make some fit changes so technically it is a muslin.

I also didn’t have quite enough fabric so I made the waist band out of a ponte fabric scrap and eliminated pockets.

5. This pattern is a keeper but I really need to reconsider sizing before I make it again.

Barb’s Garments: Spring Capsule in Navy as Neutral

My inspiration was the Sewing Workshop’s March Sew Confident project.  I am not a member of Sew Confident 2026.

Modified as follows: shorten the pants 2″, or as desired, and eliminate the front vents and facings.  Baste the ends of ½ of a ponytail holder 3 and ½ inches from finished lower edge to the side/back leg piece to form a loop for a button.  Stitch a 1″ strip of contrasting fabric down front of leg using a 1/4″ SA joining the front and back pieces.  Press both seams toward the center.  Topstitch the seam without the loop. Back patch pockets:  Using New Look 6703 or pocket of choice.  Cut horizontally on decorative stitching line and sew a 1″ strip of contrast fabric between the new top and bottom w 5/8″ SA and topstitch. Finish pockets per directions.  Stitch in place at desired placement.  Sew a button on each pocket.  Construct per Urban pattern,  Sew button at end of ponytail holder loop and another 2″ out towards the sides for optional pleat effect.

Sewing Workshop Mimosa Top/Vest in navy linen-photo above

1. No pattern changes.  This was my first “make” of this pattern.  Catching the edge of the band on the underside was tricky for me.

1. I used the Mix-It top pattern laying it over the Liberty front and traced a new front.  I omitted the collar. I lengthened the new front and the Liberty back piece 2″ at the S/L line.  I shortened the sleeves 8″.  I followed the Mix-It front neckline and facing instructions.  Then I continued with the Liberty instructions.  I used a 2″ wide bias strip of self-fabric to bind the armholes.  I have 6 buttonholes and buttons in my vest/top.

1. I made a forward shoulder adjustment to the Marceau top. I shortened the sleeves 3″.  I created a new front by placing the right front pattern piece on the fold. Repeat with right back pattern piece to create a new back.  Using the Sew House Seven Tabor view 4 neckline, I matched the “point” of the neck/shoulder of the front of both patterns to make new neckline.  This raises the back neckline 1 and 1/4″.  I cut out the “V” on the front using the Tabor front neckline.  I constructed the front per Tabor and using the wide neckline band.  I finished the  construction using Marceau pattern.

1. I tried using the instructions from the blog for this variation on the Sewing Workshop website.  My problem was that my fabric had an undesirable back that I didn’t want to show.  I cut the collar according to the blog and shortened the top of the facing to 2” shorter than the adjusted collar.  Follow sewing instruction of the blog.  I omitted topstitching the front facing as instructed.  Collar: fold right sides tog and stitch ends enclosing the facing, trim, and turn. Stitch down collar to jacket back.   I finished my jacket by topstitching the front facings along the finished raw edge.   

Kristin’s Garments:

The knit version is cut at the midi version. The woven is shorter by about 8”.

The knit version is very comfortable to wear. The woven version needs to sit at waist or you will lose the blouse effect which means the woven fabric will fit very close.

There are separate pattern pieces for woven vs. knit. The bodice of woven is at less of a bias than the knit and the woven is wider from waist down.

The pattern instructions recommend hand stitching hems to continue the luxurious feel of the dress but I wasn’t going for luxe so I machine stitched 🙂

May-cohost Karen Sweet

Saturday, May 9, Open Studio Sewing, Mpls.

Wednesday, May 13, Ginny’s, Rochester

Thursday, May 14, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Also note: June meetings are all one week later-June 17, 18 and 20

Debbie stepped back into her hosting shoes for April meetings so I could be with grandkids as they welcomed their new sister into the family-

But let’s move on to your garments!!

My just-serviced coverstitch machine is for sale-$300. I have more machines than I need 🙂 This is my favorite stand alone coverstitch. Babylock BLCS-2.

I’m at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley today (Thursday, April 16) and would love to leave it here with a new owner.

Text if you are interested 952-201-3863 and I will respond as I can-class at 1 pm.

Kay’s Garments:

Magna Pants from “Ahead of the Curve”

Linen/cotton blend

This is a printed pattern if you have a copy of the book. If you have a digital copy of the book, the pattern is available as a PDF.

I made the version which does not require an optional side zipper.

The pattern is only available in US sizes 12-32. Cashmerette now does all patterns in a full size range from US sizes 0-32.

This is a pattern for woven fabrics and has a flat front waistband and an elastic back which I prefer rather than one that is all elastic. The back darts also provide me with a better fit.

Maker’s Atelier’s Flared Shirt, PDF (AO) (photo above)

Available through The Fold Line

Linen, cotton Blend from Style Makers

This shirt is similar to the popular Donny Shirt. I like this British Designer.

The collar is flat and does not have a band which I like.

I made the long sleeve version but am also thinking that I would like the sleeveless version for spring and summer. It has a nice flared shape.

I made the asymmetrical version with zippered side pockets.

The scuba fabric was great to work with and this is a nice transitional piece as the weather changes.

I found that the directions while good could have been clearer especially when dealing with inserting the pocket zippers.

I made the pattern to size and was very happy with the fit.

Closet Core Sleep Mask -matching fabric-free pattern

I wanted a pair of spring pajamas but decided to make the long sleeved top and long pants as I get cold even in the summer!

I did not use the pattern directions for attaching the bindings. I used 2” wide strips of knit, folded them in half and serged them to the edges.

I made the pattern to size and it fits but I like my jammies to be loose and comfy and these are more form fitting. I should have looked more carefully at the pattern and would have noticed that the bottoms fit more like leggings than lounge pants. So while the pattern is cute, I would recommend sizing up one or maybe even 2 sizes for the bottoms. I would also shorten them.

The sleep mask is fun and easy to make and a different type from the typical sleep mask. I liked that it didn’t have an elastic band around your head. Just a fun little addition.

Kay gave us some very on-trend tips on packing with the sudoku method. It’s a great way to find holes in your wardrobe too! Have fun on a snowy afternoon and see how many you have in your wardrobe!

Kristin’s Garments

A warmer, more casual jacket was needed in the wardrobe so here it is! My plan was to make the first jacket from the quilted lining, make the outside jacket, shorten the lining at the hem and stitch to the outer jacket lining, stitch the lining to the outer jacket at the neck edge (with the collar sandwiched between), pop on the plackets and deal with the sleeve edges as it happened.

For once, I pretty much followed the plan! I added a center back upper and lower seam to accommodate my fabric mash up. The lining seams were zigzagged open to keep them flat.

The center front facings were trimmed off to become the plackets. I reshaped the back facing for hanger appeal.

Welt pockets were added using Sew Anastasia’s technique on YouTube (I used the same technique on the sweater jacket). The placket ends were applied using this technique (https://fb.watch/FN4vzhKzIM/?fs=e) It’s Kenneth King slowing down a fast recording of ryliss_sewinganddesign-school doing the same thing. It works great on waistbands and worked really well on the hem end of placket but not on the collar end (collar is in the way).

Another fun drafting exercise from this company. I made two last month. The photo (again) drew me in. I am happy with the results and enjoyed the sew.

Only one collar is cut out and the neck facing incorporates the upper collar. That’s cool! Beautiful pleats in the sleeve. Used a quick Workroom Social technique YouTube tutorial for sleeve plackets.

I got so excited about my two neck buttons that I forgot about the cuff buttons so did snaps 🙂

This is a medium sized, lined bag with nice pocket assortment and optional zip closure. The laminated canvas was fairly easy to sew on-the walking foot was my tool of choice.

I put in the top zip. I also used a zipper foot to enclose clothesline rope inside the handle to give it some heft. The pattern and instructions were great but not quite the perfect bag yet..

April Garment Sewing Group Meetings-Cohost: Barb Prigge

Wednesday, April 8, Sew Inviting, St. Paul

Thursday, April 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and Fabric Swap

Saturday, April 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

(Some of my grandkids are super-into basketball, but I digress)

Our pre-blizzard March Garment Sewing Group meetings were amazing!! Kay was the cohost and had a great time (her words). We started out Wednesday at Lakes Makerie-

Then Thursday was at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley-

Saturday’s meeting was at Open Studio Sewing in St. Louis Park-

And we all went home and waited for the blizzard! Whew! Dodged that bullet!

Kristin and Kay’s garments are in a separate post-

Another month and you didn’t disappoint! Here are Saturday and Thursday meetings-