1. Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust. Did not do any other shortening – it is a crop jacket and I did not want it any shorter than pictured.
2. The jacket is unlined which I don’t mind because I usually line the sleeves for easy on and off. However, due to the sleeve design I could not line just the sleeves. So I made a muslin from lining, checked fit and made adjustments and then lined the entire jacket by stitching the rs of lining to rs of jacket except at jacket hem.
3. The jacket has faced hems so it was easy to baste lining to jacket at hems and then add the facing. I had to think out construction steps carefully to get my desired finish. A jacket without lined sleeves does not work for me.
4. The lining hides the seams and I had fun binding the facing with contrast stripe.
5. I like the pattern. The directions are clear and isn’t a difficult make at all, especially if you do not care about lining.
Peach Stripe Tee (pictured above under jacket
Art Gallery Jersey Knit ( very off grain) made from my TNT, McCalls 6964
Large Floral Periwinkle Wrap Skirt
Cotton sateen with Bemberg lining
Simplicity 8699, View C, lengthened
1. I liked the contour waistband on this skirt so I thought I would give it a try. It is an unlined skirt so once again I needed to make some changes in construction.
2. I constructed the skirt, cutoff facing of lining leaving seam allowance and stitched the lining to the skirt rst at wrap facing edges.
3. Then I basted the lining to the skirt at waist and added the waistband. I think it worked out well.
4.The pattern calls for two buttons at wrap but I added a third. I also had fun adding bias trim to waistband facing.
Periwinkle Short Sleeve Turtleneck (pictured above)
Cotton/Spandex jersey knit
TNT Jalie T-Shirts Pattern 2805
Light Weight Joggers
Jalie Vanessa Pants
1. This is my second make from this pattern. I went down a size and added cuffs with elastic.
2.My first pair was made with a light weight linen blend , no cuffs.
3. Between the two pairs and the fit adjustments I have made a third pair would be perfect – I think!
Indigo Leaves Top (pictured above)
Jalie 2682 Women’s tops
This is a favorite pattern. I am finding this time of year I want my neck to be warm so this Tee and the short sleeve Turtleneck meet my needs as we move from spring to summer.
Vanessa Fluid Pant by Jalie—Black linen/activewear knit
1. Added length, swapped waistband and ankle cuffs for Hudson Pant pattern pieces and cut from knit.
2. Eliminated elastic from ankle cuffs as activewear knit gathered linen.
3. Linen is definitely bulkier at the waist with the gathering but great for the pattern design.
Spring Green Jacket
Metra Blazer from Love Notions
Activewear knit with fleece on wrong side
1. This is similar to Debbie’s Morris Blazer/Grainline Studios. Princess seams on front and side seam goes toward back so almost not a “side” seam. Longer than Morris with collar options.
2. Great directions and drafting. Marking lines blur sometimes. Full bust option.
3. Pocket welt is clever and easy to insert.
4. Front lapel is applied with burrito roll so very clean interior.
5. Love the Love Notions instructions-clear, beautifully laid out and very well organized-links to tutorials that I watched for the welt and burrito roll/shoulders.
6. Lapels lie flat, fabric may be not the best but it is a nice alternative to a zip fleece!
The Top That Every Pattern Company Makes
Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch
Linen, rayon and chambray
1. Itch to Stitch has a large size range and cup sizes so I wanted to test the pattern in different sizes and fabrics before jumping in and using for class.
2. The instructions are very old school so I ignored them and applied the bands with my serger and topstitched the seam allowances toward the body of garment.
3. Pattern is well drafted-sleeves are nicely narrow/no bra view under arm. The neck could be a bit smaller, depending on the fabric you use. Band seemed to be a bit smaller than bottom of garment so I would cut band larger next time so I can accommodate as needed.
4. Bust dart for C+ cup sizes needs to point up-not much room under arm to move up.
5. Added a few touches-machine embroidery on chambray and bias binding on linen.
Garnet Hill PJ Pants
Tranquil Pajamas/Love Notions
Art Gallery cotton knit/linen binding
1. I’ve been ripping this pajama style out of the catalog for years!! The Love Notions pattern is exactly what I needed.
2. Pants are one seam and fit spot on-except for the peak of the center back seam but that is easily cut down.
3. The tulip detail takes a little time-the detail piece is topstitched on but could easily be sewn into the seam-but that’s what makes them special.
4. I think I have a new favorite pattern company!! And they are on sale till May 10-40% off!!
New pattern printing company-Sublime Grafx
1. Print patterns in tissue, light white paper or regular heavier white paper.
2. Patterns are printed in color if the file is in color-no extra charge.
3. Flat fee for printing no matter how many pages-$10, $8 and $6 per pattern.
4. There was an email or two between us to get it sorted but they were very nice and I love my tissue patterns!
5. I learned from ordering both from Sublime Grafx and Pattern Review that if you want all sizes you need to tell them. They are saving trees and assume you are making only one size.
June Garment Sewing Group Zoom /Live? We will keep you posted!
Tuesday, June 8, 10:30 Thursday, June 10, 10:30 Saturday, June 12, 10:30
Woohoo! In person classes are finally (well, almost) here! All First Sewing classes are in person. Treadle classes will be via Zoom for May and hopefully in store in June as long as the Covid trend continues as it is.
To register for First Sewing classes, click on the menu bar “Classes at First Sewing“.
To register for Treadle classes, go to the store or call 651-698-9690.
Contact us for more questions-more information about the classes can be found in the class listings on our website and Treadle’s.
All Classes May-April
Post Sergery: A Knit Tee for Me!
You made a no-stress tee for a child in Basic Sergery. Now it’s time to tackle a tee that you will actually wear! We’ll supply the Terra Tunic pattern from Itch to Stitch; it has a variety of necklines and silhouettes to keep you serging all summer long. We’ll cover techniques for measuring your body to choose a pattern size, fit issues, neckband application, hems, plus learn hands-on how to order and work with a large format printing of a PDF pattern.
You don’t have to be a Basic & Beyond graduate but you do need to know how to get a 4 thread stitch on your serger 🙂
Thursday, May 20 and 27, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store
Wednesdays, June 2 and 9, 10-12 pm at Treadle-in store
Basic & Beyond Sergery
Do you have a serger you don’t know how to use? Are you a little confused about threading? Take the fear out of serging and get comfortable with what could become your favorite sewing tool. Sessions cover machine parts, threading, rolled hem, flatlock, techniques, serging a basic tee and more.
A child sized, cut out tee will be provided to practice your new skills. Construction techniques will be emphasized.
Thursdays, May 20, 27, June 3, 10-12 pm at First Sewing-in store
Thursdays, June 17, 24, July 1, 10-12 pm at First Sewing-in store
Tuesdays, May 18, 25, June 8, 1-3 pm via Zoom-register with Treadle
Wednesdays, June 16, 23, 30, 10-12 pm at Treadle-in person at Treadle
Post Sergery: Woven Top
Make the Melrose Top by Itch to Stitch (pattern provided) and serge/sew an easy to wear summer top. We’ll cover techniques for bias neck binding, French seams, and band application, plus learn hands-on how to order and work with a large format printing of a PDF pattern.
Tuesdays, May 18 and 25, 10-12 pm via Zoom-register with Treadle
Thursdays, June 24, July 1, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store
Jalie Eleonore Pull-on Pant
A breeze to sew and wear, skinny jeans are a wardrobe staple. Make yours from stretch denim/twill or ponte knit and the Jalie Eleonore pattern. Without a zipper, the techniques are pretty easy!
This is just the best pattern for crotch fit, close to thigh, close to ready to wear, that we can find!! (Humble opinion, of course 🙂 Most people need to make only a few tweaks.
Wednesdays, June 2, 9, 16, 1-3 pm at Treadle-in store
In this hands-on class we will go step by step through the techniques for a wrapped collar, one seam collar, and collar-into-stand methods of construction. You may want to have a shirt cut out or have your pattern handy at class so you can adapt your pattern for these great techniques.
Thursday, June 3, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store
Cutting out patterns on the floor? Got questions about pattern directions? Bring your project or sewing goals and spread out in our spacious classroom. We will help you choose pattern, fabric, decipher pattern directions, fit-whatever you need. And meet other sewists that share your passion! Come as often as you can and sew what you want-
Thursdays, June 10, 17, 1-4 pm First Sewing-in store
Sew for Yourself-What You Need to Know
Garment sewing for the first time or getting back into it-we’ll outline the things that will make the adventure a bit less hazardous and more satisfying. Garment sewing isn’t for the faint of heart but seen as a pursuit rather than a pass/fail event and armed with what we’ve learned over the years, you will fall in love with the craft and art of sewing.
Choosing your size, indie patterns, Pdf printing, knits and new fabrics, fit issues and techniques are some of the topics we’ll cover.
Wednesdays, June 23 and 30, 1-3 pm at Treadle-in store
Stretch cotton bottom weight with Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining
A Favorite TNT pattern.
1. Made standard petite adjustments.
2. French seams for front, back and sides. Attached interfacing to facing rst on outside edge for a clean finish.
3. It is an unlined jacket but I lined sleeves for easy on and off over other garment.
4. Changed order of construction.
Navy Darted Neckline Tee
Vogue 9205, View A
1.Did standard petite adjustments and shortened length by 3 inches.
Good Basic Tee pattern with just a few minor tweaks.
Navy Print Princess Seam Unlined Jacket
Japanese Cotton with Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining.
1. Made a muslin and made the following adjustments: petited between shoulder and bust, narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed sleeve width at hem and did not shorten length of jacket.
2. I feel the jacket runs larger than info stated on pattern envelope and therefore wish I would have made a bit smaller in some areas.
3. Changed order of construction to be able to check fit as I sewed.
4.I cut the under collar on the bias and added a back neck facing to eliminate slip stitching.
5. It is an okay pattern but lacked sewing techniques that takes the garment up a notch or two.
Green/Vanilla Dot Pullover Blouse
New look 6434, View A
1. I like this pattern mainly because it has a bust dart and is not oversized.
2. I did standard petite adjustments as well as lowering bust dart one inch.
13. I am not a fan of the back opening with button loop so I inserted an invisible zipper the “couture”method with zipper pull one inch from top of neck edge.
14. I used self bias tape and curved the bottom hem slightly.
Sew Your Roll-Purple new born bottom with lace inserted into pocket and sheer rose on pocket and center front.
Another Diagonal Cut Coat
Sapporo Coat, Papercut Patterns, long version
(Continued on next page)
1. Made a size 4 and went to 5 at hips. Took out 2” of length above bust line to bring diagonal closer to face and make armhole smaller. Made corresponding changes to sleeve.
2. Construction went very well. Clear directions-all fit together-except for sleeve lining and sleeve facing but that could have been due to the changes I made in sleeve width, etc.
3. Omitted pocket to keep things clean and close at waist. Added black trim to seam lines for added interest.
Something to Wear With Crazy Coats
Remy Raglan by Sew House Seven
1. Cut the version with 3/4 sleeve with button at neck but made hem straight instead of curved because of print.
2. Pattern instructions are great-french seams, etc.
3. Neck is large enough to fit head so I sewed button to fabric and eliminated the loop.
4. Fit is just OK. Side seams droop which may be why the hem is curved in pattern. Sleeves are wide which allows rolling up-cool, unless your print isn’t double sided. May try narrow elastic in sleeve hem to gather in.
5. Armhole is high enough but quite wide across bust so fit is just OK-not a keeper IMHO.
Final Stripe Fabric Coat (with a party inside 🙂
Pendleton stripe wool/lining of indeterminate content
Burda 7700-TNT (tried and true)
1. Basted lining fabric to each piece as an underlining, except for back piece to which I added a pleat in the lining.
2. Had fun playing with the stripes which couldn’t be matched up for more than a few at a time on the diagonal.
3. Next time I will sew the collar on with the facing folded around to front to avoid the dreaded muck at center front joining. (How many times have I made this pattern??
4. Added Hong Kong finish at hems.
5. Very happy with the coat. It replaces a well worn earlier version in my studio.
6. Go to Woolenmill.store to find Pendleton wool for garment sewing.
A Little Woven, A Little Knit
Annika Top by StyleArc
Ponte knit, linen check
1. Pattern is drop shoulder and not very fitted but I think the style lines hit me in the right places.
2. Cuff is single layer-definitely would be nice doubled.
3. Started out with a larger size and went down one size.
4. Great for leftover fabrics and all the stretch in the right places!
Sew Your Roll Challenge
Leggings and Lace
Activewear knit and lace
1. Highly acclaimed pattern has been in my stash for quite some time along with the fabric from SR Harris.
2. Pants zipped up quickly and fit fairly well. Topstitched to keep lace seam allowances in place. Added a small band to ankle.
Cotton Sateen with a little stretch and rayon lining (Bemberg for sleeves)
1. Adjusted fit by petiting between shoulder and bust, waist and hip and one inch at hem.
2. Took in back princess seam 3/4 inch above waist.
3. Tapered sleeve starting under arm to hem approx. one inch.
4. Removed 3/8” sleeve ease at cap notch to notch.
5. I decided to do soft tailoring and added fusible weft to sleeve head, hems.
Used hair canvas on upper back and upper front chest.
Tie interfacing was used for sleeve cap.
Fusible interfacing and shoulder pads were added as pattern directs.
6. I changed order of construction and used wrapped method for collar.
7. I eliminated the side flaps and back pleat in lining and gathered that area for less restrictive movement.
This was a fun make!
Loose Fitting Pullover Woven Top
McCalls 7360, View C
1. Did my standard petite adjustments and shortened sleeve and body length by 2 inches.
2. Then I realized I choose the wrong size category – should have gone down a category. Oh well – made some adjustments and I am happy with it.
3. I especially like the collar, back yoke and pleats and front placket.
4. My choice of fabric makes it difficult to see the details. Wearing this feels more interesting and comfortable then your standard every day tee.
Warmer Weather Wrap Robe
Light weight rayon jersey
1. Standard petite adjustments, shortened length of sleeves and body by one inch.
2. The body of the robe is very full so I straightened the side seams starting at under arm down to hem by 3 inches on each side. I also took out width from sleeve from under arm to hem, again by 3 inches. It is still very wide.
3. I changed order of construction and attached band to robe by folding long edge of band wst and serging it to robe and topstitching. The pattern directs to sew one edge of band to robe, press and slip stitch. I try to avoid that as much as possible!
4. I added inseam pockets. They don’t float due friction of knit.
5. I wore out a RTW robe like this one so I thought I would give this pattern from my stash a try. The fabric is not a favorite and the pattern is no longer in my possession.
Sew Your Roll- Child’s pink tee with bright cuffs.
1. This is what happens when you don’t have enough of one fabric, but to be honest, it’s probably better that the whole sweater wasn’t the cobweb print!
2. Made to pattern except for widening at hem and hem band. What a great pattern!
3. FYI-cuffs are very difficult to topstitch (and you don’t have to) so may want to apply flat if topstitching is part of your plan.
What To Do With the Funnel Neck?
Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater-funnel version
Double faced knit
1. Some people find the facings of the funnel version a bit high maintenance so I played a bit. You may want to try one or two of them but certainly all would be overkill.
2. First, I cut the back facing with a long curve as we see in ready to wear thinking the weight of the fabric would hold it down and solve the front vs. back problem (I know, it’s a high low hem 🙂 I ended up topstitching it down. I like the back interest.
3. Embroidering something on the back neck would also hold the back in place.
4. Topstitching the fold of the funnel definitely keeps the neck in place-mark the fold line and pin in place to be sure you get it right.
Did you know?? Itch to Stitch just released their Gothenburg Top which is the spitting image of the Sew House Seven funnel version but it has a bust dart, cup sizes, forward shoulder AND size range of 00-40! And they’ve added AO Copyshop format.
Hudson Pant #2
Hudson Pant by True Bias
1. My first version of these was a rayon knit so I didn’t trust the fit. Had to try again.
2. Many of our students looked at the photos and decided to add 1” to the rise. We added the inch between the notch below the pocket and the lower “corner” of the pocket.
3. I made the ankle cuffs bigger by an inch to keep them from riding up on my ankles.
4. The 1” addition to the rise turned out to be mostly not necessary but using 1” elastic made it go away.
5. I would make the pocket band shorter next time as it bagged a bit.
6. Very comfy pants but not sure I will wear them as pants for public scrutiny-just my body shape 🙂
Renee by Jalie Patterns
1. Skinny pant for ponte knits with back darts to eliminate bulk and a long skinny inset as faux pockets to give a nice line.
2. I first made a pair 3 sizes too big as there was quite a bit of negative ease-these are the gray ones. I like the fit. Quite high waisted but comfy. Don’t miss pockets at all-but that’s me.
3. Had to try them in “my” size just to see-this would be the red pair.
Tania by Jalie Patterns
1. Very attracted to the diagonal lines because I have a piece of wool stripe but the collar was my hang up. Made to pattern and it’s just OK.
2. Stay tuned to see what form the jacket takes…
Sew Your Roll-Muse Playsuit by Stitch Upon a Time-sweet pattern-well written-gusset is a challenge.
April 2021 Garment Sewing Group via Zoom
Saturday, April 10, 10:30
Tuesday, April 13, 10:30
Thursday, April 15, 10:30 (this is a departure from regular 2nd Thursday)
Another great month with our first challenge Sew Your Roll. See photos and end of post. Next month’s Sew Your Roll is PINK, BRIGHT, CUFFS.
March is here-any spring sewing yet??
Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket, View A
Chambray with rayon lining
1. Petite between shoulder and bust but did not shorten length.
2. Quilted horizontal lines 3 inches apart rather than 3.5 as pattern directs.
3. Made bias tape and bound the shoulder and side seams as well as outside edges.
*I am a little late to the party since this pattern debuted in 2016. Before I started this project I checked out galleries and reviews and thought I would give it a try. I love my fabrics but not a fan of the pattern for the following reasons:
-welt and pocket bag instructions make procedure more difficult and messy than necessary
-too many “homemade” construction details
-quilting jacket and then lining would be a better option in my opinion.
Hvar Water Fall Jacket Tee Shirt Remake (worn under jacket)
I did not like the jacket but really liked the fabric so I made a tee that will get a lot more wear.
Closet Case Carolyn Pajama, View A
Seafoam green print rayon
Another late to the party pattern for me!
1. Standard petite adjustments on top. Shortened legs 1 inch between waist and hip and between hip and hem. Also removed 3 inches from hem.
2. Tapered inseam and outside leg seams from knee to hem.
3. Made contrasting piping.
4. Really liked the pocket bag for bottoms.
5. Collar and neck is putsy and this is stated in the instructions. Their reason is for that is eliminating a back neck facing. A homemade look in my opinion.
6. On the pattern envelope View A does not have pipping and cuffs, View B does. The illustrations are the opposite on direction sheet.
I love the fabric but not a fan of the pattern.
Bells of Bells & Whistles, Sewing Workshop
1. Resurrected this pattern from a bucket of UFO’s. Pattern reissued in 2017.
2. Collar manipulated to make best use of stripes. Had fun playing with stripes.
3. Instructions suggested no interfacing so I didn’t. Happy with results.
4. Omitted the flowing tie and cut off center placket at hem instead of dangling.
5. Fairly close fitting for a Sewing Workshop pattern.
Easy Wear/Easy Sew Shirt
Holiday Shirt by Makers Atelier
1. Was hoping for a faux pajama shirt without the fuss of buttons, both in sewing and wearing.
2. Made to pattern but didn’t like the yoke or collar techniques-fussy.
3. Boxy fit but slim sleeve. Liked the collar.
Easy Wear/Easy Sew Shirt #2
Holiday Shirt from Makers Atelier combined with Now Shirt by Sewing Workshop
Mammoth flannel by Robert Kaufman
1. Cut fronts and backs from Now Shirt.
2. Used sleeves and collar from Holiday Shirt (Now Shirt has a very flat sleeve head-Holiday shirt sleeve head is high).
3. Recut center fronts to have 1” seam allowance which continued to collar.
4. Really pleased with the “New” Shirt.
Ruby Joggers by Paprika Patterns
Rayon french terry
1. Made to pattern and then cut down waist by 1”.
2. Techniques great and pattern well drafted. Pattern suggests 10-20% stretch. Stretchier fabric (like mine) can get a little wavy on cross grain seams.
3. Elastic went all the way around because knit was stretchy as directions suggested.
Sew Your Roll-does “garment” override “no bags”? Sewing up UFO’s is definitely within the spirit of the challenge 🙂
Garment Bag copied from a suit bag
Debbie’s challenge garment was a tee to match her new pajamas-
Debbie’s been working overtime this month thinking of things to keep our interest up during the long winter months. We started a “Sew Your Roll” challenge! Our first attempts were fun (after a little initial whining 🙂 The rules are listed at the end of the post.
Next month’s challenge will be white, shiny and contrast! Yes, more whining but that’s how the dice rolled/cookie crumbles. Give it a shot-win $10 gift certificate at Treadle if your name is drawn.
We also reinstated our practice of drawing a name from those of you that have a project to show. Your name will be entered as many times as you attend in a month and you will get free admittance the next month if your name is drawn!
Jasika Jacket, Closet Core Pattens
Wool Flannel, Rayon Lining
I have been thinking about a tailored jacket for awhile. Once the pandemic hit I felt now is the time.
I gathered all my fabric and supplies and started the jacket in November and finished just before Christmas. A slow and Therapeutic Sew!
1. Made a muslin and did basic adjustments.
2. The pattern is well drafted and the instructions are excellent.
3. Modern tailoring techniques and supplies are used with just the right amount of hand stitching. It was a great experience for me.
Navy Classic Dot Shirt
Kwik Sew 3555
Same rayon used for lining of jacket
1. My favorite classic shirt pattern. However I found that the pattern is a bit outdated in fit and collar size so I may be on the lookout for a new TNT shirt pattern.
Green/Teal Shawl Coatigan
Loren Jacket by Style Arc
Double faced Wool Knit
1. Tested various preshrinking techniques and found that placing the wool in the dryer with a damp towel gave me the results I was looking for.
2. Did my standard fitting adjustments.
3. Tested several seam techniques on scraps and went with stitching the seams with the sewing machine, press open and topstitch on each side.
8. Also tested several edge finishes and went with edge stitching cut edges and then top stitching 1/4” from edge stitch.
9. The patch pockets are underlined with silk for a smooth finish.
10. Another therapeutic sewing project.
Sew and Roll Challenge-Iris Tee by Forget Me Not Patterns, Rayon Jersey
1. When sewing the cuff to the sleeve I left a small opening about an inch in length to add a tie to the cuff of each sleeve to add the detail for my roll!
Shade-Neutral (white, black, grays, browns)
Sew Your Roll Challenge
Neige Sweater-Deer and Doe
Assorted blends of sweater knit
Chose a mashup of views-longer length, wide stand up collar and no cuffs.
Arranged fabrics for a reversible option.
Serged seams to accentuate “Michelin man” arms.
Added binding to hem for reversibility.
Pattern well drafted and instructions good. Separate booklet for English and French
Oliver Pattern from Seamwork
Closer fit through shoulder and bust.
Added a band as it was just a bit short.
Added subtle accents with flatlock stitching on serger.
Reversed the fabric for another subtle accent.
Talvikki Sweater from Named Patterns
Wool sweater knit
Neck darts were easier than expected. Like the accent at face level.
Neck facing is activewear knit (pattern called for stretch interfacing so I thought it would do nicely as neck must stretch some to get over head.
Sleeves were large and underarm low so took in and raised 2”.
Side seam vents were a bit high so lowered 2”.
Sew Your Roll Garment Challenge
Rules – follow the color, shade and detail
Garments only please – No bags or Masks
Make something for yourself or others
Use up your stash, re-fashion previous make or even a RTW
Purchase new fabric from a different source than usual
Color: 1. Can’t be rolled 2. Pink 3. White 4. Purple 5. Black 6. Blue 7. Teal 8. Green 9. Red 10. Yellow 11. Gray 12. Orange
Shade: 1. Can’t be rolled 2. Dark 3. Earthy 4. Pastel. 5. Neon 6. Print 7. Bright 8. Sheer 9. Muted 10. Solid 11. Neutral 12. Pick Your Own
Detail 1. Can’t be rolled 2. Ruffle 3. Cut out 4. Asymmetric 5.Cuffs 6. Buttons 7. Bow 8. Color Block 9. Lace insert 10. Puff Sleeve 11. Contrast 12. Pocket