From cold March sewing to hopes of April showers-

April 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Botanical Print Brown/Navy Jacket

Grainline Studio Morris Blazer  

Stretch cotton bottom weight with Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining

A Favorite TNT pattern.

1. Made standard petite adjustments.

2. French seams for front, back and sides. Attached interfacing to facing rst on outside edge for a clean finish.

3. It is an unlined jacket but I lined sleeves for easy on and off over other garment.

4. Changed order of construction.

Navy Darted Neckline Tee

Vogue 9205, View A

Cotton/Spandex Jersey.

1.Did standard petite adjustments and shortened length by 3 inches.

Good Basic Tee pattern with just a few minor tweaks.

Navy Print Princess Seam Unlined Jacket

Vogue 1644

Japanese Cotton with Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining.

1. Made a muslin and made the following adjustments: petited between shoulder and bust, narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed  sleeve width at hem and did not shorten length of jacket.

2. I feel the jacket runs larger than info stated on pattern envelope and therefore wish I would have made a bit smaller in some areas.

3. Changed order of construction to be able to check fit as I sewed.

4.I cut the under collar on the bias and added a back neck facing to eliminate slip stitching.

5. It is an okay pattern but lacked sewing techniques that takes the garment up a notch or two.

Green/Vanilla Dot Pullover Blouse

New look 6434, View A

Silk

1. I like this pattern mainly because it has a bust dart and is not oversized.

2. I did standard petite adjustments as well as lowering bust dart one inch.

13. I am not a fan of the back opening with button  loop so I inserted an invisible zipper the “couture”method with zipper pull one inch from top of neck edge.

14. I used self bias tape and curved the bottom hem slightly.

Sew Your Roll-Purple new born bottom with lace inserted into pocket and sheer rose on pocket and center front.

Kristin’s Garments

Another Diagonal Cut Coat

Sapporo Coat, Papercut Patterns, long version

Wool herringbone

(Continued on next page)

1. Made a size 4 and went to 5 at hips. Took out 2” of length above bust line to bring diagonal closer to face and make armhole smaller. Made corresponding changes to sleeve.

2. Construction went very well. Clear directions-all fit together-except for sleeve lining and sleeve facing but that could have been due to the changes I made in sleeve width, etc.

3. Omitted pocket to keep things clean and close at waist. Added black trim to seam lines for added interest.

Something to Wear With Crazy Coats

Remy Raglan by Sew House Seven

Rayon challis

1. Cut the version with 3/4 sleeve with button at neck but made hem straight instead of curved because of print.

2. Pattern instructions are great-french seams, etc.

3. Neck is large enough to fit head so I sewed button to fabric and eliminated the loop.

4. Fit is just OK. Side seams droop which may be why the hem is curved in pattern. Sleeves are wide which allows rolling up-cool, unless your print isn’t double sided. May try narrow elastic in sleeve hem to gather in.

5. Armhole is high enough but quite wide across bust so fit is just OK-not a keeper IMHO.

Final Stripe Fabric Coat (with a party inside 🙂

Pendleton stripe wool/lining of indeterminate content

Burda 7700-TNT (tried and true)

1. Basted lining fabric to each piece as an underlining, except for back piece to which I added a pleat in the lining.

2. Had fun playing with the stripes which couldn’t be matched up for more than a few at a time on the diagonal.

3. Next time I will sew the collar on with the facing folded around to front to avoid the dreaded muck at center front joining. (How many times have I made this pattern??

4. Added Hong Kong finish at hems.

5. Very happy with the coat. It replaces a well worn earlier version in my studio.

6. Go to Woolenmill.store to find Pendleton wool for garment sewing.

A Little Woven, A Little Knit

Annika Top by StyleArc

Ponte knit, linen check

1. Pattern is drop shoulder and not very fitted but I think the style lines hit me in the right places.

2. Cuff is single layer-definitely would be nice doubled.

3. Started out with a larger size and went down one size.

4. Great for leftover fabrics and all the stretch in the right places!

Sew Your Roll Challenge

Leggings and Lace

Simplicity 8212

Activewear knit and lace

1. Highly acclaimed pattern has been in my stash for quite some time along with the fabric from SR Harris.

2. Pants zipped up quickly and fit fairly well. Topstitched to keep lace seam allowances in place. Added a small band to ankle.

Garment Sewing Group

March 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Coral Spring Coat With Party Inside

Burda 6772, View A and B combined

Cotton Sateen with a little stretch and rayon lining (Bemberg for sleeves)

1.  Adjusted fit by petiting between shoulder and bust, waist and hip and one inch at hem.

2. Took in back princess seam 3/4 inch above waist.

3. Tapered sleeve starting under arm to hem approx. one inch.

4. Removed 3/8” sleeve ease at cap notch to notch.

Construction –

5. I decided to do soft tailoring and added fusible weft to sleeve head, hems.

Used hair canvas on upper back and upper front chest.

Tie interfacing was used for sleeve cap. 

Fusible interfacing and shoulder pads were added as pattern directs.

6.  I changed order of construction and used wrapped method for collar.

7.  I eliminated the side flaps and back pleat in lining and gathered that area for less restrictive movement.

This was a fun make!

Loose Fitting Pullover Woven Top

McCalls 7360, View C

Rayon twill

1. Did my standard petite adjustments and shortened sleeve and body length by 2 inches.

2. Then I realized I choose the wrong size category – should have gone down a category. Oh well – made some adjustments and I am happy with it.

3. I especially like the collar, back yoke and pleats and front placket.

4. My choice of fabric makes it difficult to see the details. Wearing this feels more interesting and comfortable then your standard every day tee.

Warmer Weather Wrap Robe

McCalls 8056

Light weight rayon jersey

1. Standard petite adjustments, shortened length of sleeves and body by one inch.

2. The body of the robe is very full so I straightened the side seams starting at under arm down to hem by 3 inches on each side. I also took out width from sleeve from under arm to hem, again by 3 inches. It is still very wide.

3. I changed order of construction and attached band to robe by folding long edge of band wst and serging it to robe and topstitching. The pattern directs to sew one edge of band to robe, press and slip stitch. I try to avoid that as much as possible!

4. I added inseam pockets. They don’t float due friction of knit.

5. I wore out a RTW robe like this one so I thought I would give this pattern from my stash a try. The fabric is not a favorite and the pattern is no longer in my possession.

Sew Your Roll- Child’s pink tee with bright cuffs.

Kristin’s Garments:

Raglan Toaster Mash Up

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater-raglan version

Cotton sweatshirt knit, activewear waffle knit, interlock stripe

1. This is what happens when you don’t have enough of one fabric, but to be honest, it’s probably better that the whole sweater wasn’t the cobweb print!

2. Made to pattern except for widening at hem and hem band. What a great pattern!

3. FYI-cuffs are very difficult to topstitch (and you don’t have to) so may want to apply flat if topstitching is part of your plan.

What To Do With the Funnel Neck?

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater-funnel version

Double faced knit

1. Some people find the facings of the funnel version a bit high maintenance so I played a bit. You may want to try one or two of them but certainly all would be overkill.

2. First, I cut the back facing with a long curve as we see in ready to wear thinking the weight of the fabric would hold it down and solve the front vs. back problem (I know, it’s a high low hem 🙂 I ended up topstitching it down. I like the back interest.

3. Embroidering something on the back neck would also hold the back in place.

4. Topstitching the fold of the funnel definitely keeps the neck in place-mark the fold line and pin in place to be sure you get it right.

Did you know?? Itch to Stitch just released their Gothenburg Top which is the spitting image of the Sew House Seven funnel version but it has a bust dart, cup sizes, forward shoulder AND size range of 00-40! And they’ve added AO Copyshop format.

Hudson Pant #2

Hudson Pant by True Bias

Activewear knit

1. My first version of these was a rayon knit so I didn’t trust the fit. Had to try again.

2. Many of our students looked at the photos and decided to add 1” to the rise. We added the inch between the notch below the pocket and the lower “corner” of the pocket.

3. I made the ankle cuffs bigger by an inch to keep them from riding up on my ankles.

4. The 1” addition to the rise turned out to be mostly not necessary but using 1” elastic made it go away.

5. I would make the pocket band shorter next time as it bagged a bit.

6. Very comfy pants but not sure I will wear them as pants for public scrutiny-just my body shape 🙂

Cigarette Pants

Renee by Jalie Patterns

Rayon knit

1. Skinny pant for ponte knits with back darts to eliminate bulk and a long skinny inset as faux pockets to give a nice line.

2. I first made a pair 3 sizes too big as there was quite a bit of negative ease-these are the gray ones. I like the fit. Quite high waisted but comfy. Don’t miss pockets at all-but that’s me.

3. Had to try them in “my” size just to see-this would be the red pair.

Spring Jacket

Tania by Jalie Patterns

Ponte knits

1. Very attracted to the diagonal lines because I have a piece of wool stripe but the collar was my hang up. Made to pattern and it’s just OK.

2. Stay tuned to see what form the jacket takes…

Sew Your Roll-Muse Playsuit by Stitch Upon a Time-sweet pattern-well written-gusset is a challenge.

April 2021 Garment Sewing Group via Zoom

Saturday, April 10, 10:30

Tuesday, April 13, 10:30

Thursday, April 15, 10:30 (this is a departure from regular 2nd Thursday)

Not really, just some fun and inspiring sewing 🙂

The Sew Your Roll challenge brought out these garments (and this is just Tuesday, mind you-)

And then there was the Sew and Tell-

More coming from the Thursday and Saturday groups!

Happy Holidays, everyone! This is our last Group meeting for 2020. We want to thank everyone for hanging out and inspiring us and wish you the best in 2021!.

We will be on Zoom Thursday, December 17, from 1-2 pm for Sew Social (free!) if anyone wants to stop by and say hi!

Garment Sewing Group

December 2020

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Autumn Floral Sweater Knit Dress

McCalls 7432, View C

Brushed sweater knit

1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as a rounded back adjustment. I find the back neckline too low for colder months so this adjustment helps with that and unfortunately I am getting rounder in all the wrong places!

2. The dress is lined/underlined with tricot except for sleeves. I don’t want the dress sticking to my tights.

3. A TNT pattern that checks all the right boxes.

Denim Novelty Knit Top

Itch to Stitch Bellavista Top

1. Did standard petite adjustments.

2. Cut one layer of cowl neck piece and decreased width of cowl due to heaviness of fabric – just too much of everything.

3. The ws of the cowl is stitched to the rs of neck edge for a cleaner finish.

4. Not a fan of this fabric and pattern. Probably operator error in choice of fabric.

Orange/Tan Dot Zipper Hem Sweatshirt

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater Adapted

Cotton French Terry, Two 7” zippers

1.To match my inspiration I made a full front pattern piece and drew my design lines . Then I cut the front apart and added sa . See photo.

2. The asymmetrical seam allowances were stabilized in zipper area. Then the side seams were stitched from armhole to zipper opening.

3. Zippers were inserted leaving a one inch hem allowance. The top was completed as pattern directs.

4. I never tire of the Toaster Sweater – so much versatility  in design and fabric.

Kristin’s Garments:

Workout Jacket with Twists

Activewear with fleece backing/Joann Fabrics

Butterick 6596 OOP

1. A slow sew garment with many twists and turns. May have been some better techniques to use when sewing with knits.

2. Pockets were omitted because of difficulty with pattern directions and they would have been in my armpit!

3. Nice fit with princess seams. Good sleeve width.

4. Zipper was easy to install but probably should have been shorter for sitting.

5. Could use a snap or Velcro to hold asymmetric facing in place.

Sweater Dusters (sounds like something I would use to clean!)

Version A: Blue rayon sweatshirt fleece-more stable knit/Sewing Lounge

Blackwood Cardigan/Helen’s Closet

1. Made to pattern except for wider hips-fit is closer than desired for wearing a long sleeved shirt underneath.

2. Blackwood Cardigan is not supposed to come together at center front-just hang open.

3. Gifted to daughter who said “The cardigan was so comfy and cozy today! I’ll take 5 more please😊”

Version B: Navy double faced wool sweater knit-not so stable/SR Harris

Blackwood Cardigan/Helen’s Closet-same size as Version A

1. No pattern changes so I could compare to Version A. Much more suitable for wearing over another shirt in winter.

2. I like the weight of the band on a clingy sweater knit. Cuffs are also a plus on a thinner knit like this one.

Version C : Navy and neutrals stable wool knit/Treadle

Simplicity 8059 (neck facing) as a base with sew on band from New Look 6735

1. There’s just something about this pattern that keeps me coming back!

2. Love the wool and the “coatigan” feel of it.

3. I prefer the feel of enough fabric to fit around me without being too big (kind of like how it feels to wear short pants when you are tall and have worn short pants because you had to 🙂

Version D: Rust double faced wool sweater knit-not so stable/SR Harris

Simplicity 8059 etc.-same as Version C above

1. Used same pattern size as Version C but added cuffs to bring in at wrists. No lycra in the sweater knit made that a must in my mind. Very happy with results. Great over pj’s.

Designer Shirt

Rayon woven stripe from NYC

Wong-Singh-Jones Jaipur Blouse/Hot Patterns

1. Another slow sew with some challenges. Not a lot of good directions and questionable pattern markings but puzzled through it and it has cool features with the horizontal bust dart, vee neck and cuffs.

2. Tried a new technique on hem band. Last month I used Solvy, this month I sewed bands together for 1” and then refolded seams and stitched remaining band to corner.

3. Won’t make this again but appreciated the designer style and the pattern maker’s faith in me to “make it work”!

(Wong-Singh-Jones refers to a multi-cultural marketing company active from 1990-99?)

Granville Shirt-minus the sleeves!

Shirting cotton/Treadle

Granville Shirt/Sewaholic Patterns

1. Sleeves were sacrificed for another project that needed a contrast 🙂 which wasn’t too hard because I love sleeveless button up shirts.

2. Construction and fit of this shirt pattern with yoke, darts and back princess seams is great!

3. Got into trouble with my bias bound armholes. I hope I remember NOT to use silk as bias binding as it gets narrower as it is stretched!

January 2021 (Yay!) Garment Sewing Group Zoom:

10:30 AM

Saturday, January 9

Tuesday, January 12

Thursday, January 14

Transition season dressing has turned into winter dressing!! Guess we’ll have to “make it work”. Awesome group of people attended the three meetings with some new faces too-

Garment Sewing Group

October 2020

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:  

Forest Green Novelty Knit Top

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater 

Cotton Poly Blend with rayon Jersey bottom

1. Lengthened the body 1” and shortened cuff by 1”.
2. Omitted the band and added a shirt tail hem shape piece to front and back. The  two layers are stitched together with a cover stitch hem and the shirt tail is hemmed separately.
3. This is a TNT pattern and is fun to make with unique fabrics. 

Fall Mini Capsule

Rust Pinwale Cord Skirt

Simplicity 1321, View A

1. Added 1” to skirt length and omitted pockets.
2. Lined skirt with many colors of rayon lining – lining stash slim due to COVID!
3. Another TNT pattern for me especially in terms of fit.

Rust/Navy Shepherd Plaid Shirt

Kwik Sew 3555, adapted

Cotton

1. Omitted back yoke and made a faux cuff. Added vertical darts to front and back.
2. This shirt fabric is so comfy and soft. This is the first time I used this fabric and plan to use it again. It is also a TNT pattern and I learn something new every time I use it.

Autumn Floral Tee Shirt

Forget Me Not Iris Tee

Rayon jersey

1. Did my standard petite adjustments and a narrow shoulder adjustment.
2. The pleat at the bottom of the sleeve got my attention so I had to give this pattern a try.
3. The pattern contains a short and long sleeve with pleats and basic tee. 
4. The pleats look complicated but are not at all due to clear and concise directions. A new TNT pattern for me!

Kristin’s Garments:

Lace and Work Jacket

Grainline Thayer Jacket 

Denim and novelty lace

Lining: Cotton/silk and vintage kimono

1. What can I say about a pattern that goes together really well and fits too! This is a lined work jacket pattern made to fit my pear shape.
2. To copy the jacket from the Burda magazine I basted the lace to the pockets and yokes. A bit of white shows when the lace is folded back but that can be colored with marker.
3. I omitted the chest pockets. I felt the lace would be enough to balance out the hem pockets.
4. Instructions were excellent. The lining went so smoothly and there were no “neaten the edges” instructions.
5. I would advise marking any pattern “clips” before cutting as the sizes and small lines can be easy to miss.
6. Finally got out my Kamsnap snap press and it is awesome!!

Another-Variation-on-a-Big-Sleeve Turtle

Burda

Rayon knit

1. The rayon was so yummy and fallish that I had to try my TNT pattern with the bell sleeve variation.
2. It’s a lot of sleeve! But kind of fun! I used my differential feed to finish the raw edge of the bell which made it easier to hem up the casing.

Snuggly Joggers

Simplicity 8268/Hudson Pants from True Bias

Rayon Sweatshirt Fleece

Activewear for waistband and ankle bands

1. Compared the Simplicity and Hudson Pant and they are very similar. 
2. Serged them up and then remembered the voice of Maggy (store owner) saying, “The stretch is cross grain on this fabric.” Too late-the diaper feeling was already there with a front crotch that was growing.
3. Really like the fabric so keeping the bands will adjust waist as things grow!! Covid pants 🙂

Garment Sewing Group via Zoom:     

November

10:30 AM                                     

Tuesday, November 10

Thursday, November 12 

Saturday, November 14

December

10:30 AM

Tuesday, December 8

Thursday, December 10

Saturday, December 12

Last summer sewing and a little bit for fall-