Author: Kristin

March Garment Sewing Group/Saturday Pics

It certainly was a week of snow challenges but we came through it with lots of fun meetings and inspiration!

Here’s some of what we saw on Saturday-

Butterick 6596 in boiled wool
Jalie 2682 in activewear knit from Sewing Lounge
Butterick 6533 in textured knit
Stylearc Ada in stripe knit/Vogue 9275 in gray knit
Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch

Garment Sewing Group-March 2023

Debbie’s Garments:

Rosy Textured Zip Peplum Jacket/Burda Style 6334, View B/Cotton Dolman Tee/Jalie 3352/Cotton Spandex Khaki Trousers/Love Notions Duet Trousers/Cotton blend bottom weight twill with a little stretch

Rosy Textured Zip Peplum Jacket

1. This is my second make from this pattern. It is a favorite. 

2. The jacket is unlined but I added lining to the sleeves. It is difficult to find just the right zipper so I used a contrast and did some topstitching to match zipper tape.

3. I am not fond of the pattern construction order so I go about it my way-complete facings, and collar before side seams and sleeves.  

Dolman Tee/Jalie 3352/Cotton Spandex

1. When I came across this knit I knew it would go with my jacket. However I had barely a yard of fabric so I pulled out my TNT go-to-pattern-when-there-is-a-fabric-shortage. It works almost every time!

Khaki Trousers/Love Notions Duet Trousers/Cotton blend bottom weight twill with a little stretch

1. This muslin was a lot of work but it might become a go to pattern for woven pants.

2. I eliminated the pockets – not necessary in a muslin but it is a great feature in this pattern.

3. I added one inch to front and back rise since the pattern is designed to sit below waist.

4. I shortened the pant length by 2 inches. I added a second dart at back and increased center back seam by 1/2 inch to lessen gapping.

5. The pattern offers a pattern piece for a curvy or straight waistband. The front waist is lower than the back .  It also has a wide or straight option.

6. I added the split hem at pants bottom – a favorite of mine.

7. Overall a good pattern that I will try again.

Coral Print Blouse/Butterick 6856/Rayon Lawn from Art Gallery

1. I used view A with lots of fit adjustments – Shortened front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust. I shortened the length by 2 inches on front and back but only one inch on sleeve. The bust dart needed to be lowered and I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

2. I just barely had enough fabric so I used a contrast for placket facing and cut the cuff width in half.

3. The pattern has great fit instructions and options such as vertical darts versus tuck at back yoke. It has a tower placket but I did a continuous placket due to lack of fabric and wanting a less tailored look.

4. There is too much slip stitching in this pattern. There is a double yoke but no info on doing a burrito roll. I stitched the rs of facing to ws of blouse front for a clean finish on inside and not having to worry about securing the facing.

Kristin’s Garments:

Wool Jacket/Burda 5941, View A-short length/Wool coating

1. My goal was a soft, warm, throw-on jacket and I came pretty close!

2. The fabric has a napped side and for interest I alternated wrong side with right side on each piece. This was an interesting exercise in cutting out pieces-hint: not only must you layer fabric right side to wrong side (typically it is rs to rs or ws to ws) but you must also alternate actual pattern pieces right side up and up side down. So the upper bodice pattern piece will be face up and the lower bodice paper will be face down. Brain gymnastics!!

3. I added an interior zipper pocket.

4. My February version was too big through shoulder/bust/sleeve so I cut it down to a 14 (one size smaller) and that worked very well.

5. Fabric was too thick for machine buttonholes.

Vests

Hot Patterns Fast & Fabulous Foursquare T’s/Double sided wool knit (Vee neck)

Hot Patterns Fast & Fabulous Foursquare T’s/Double sided wool knit
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop/Rib knit wool/fleece

1. Eureka has a sloped shoulder line and the underarm curves out to give some shaping. The Hot Patterns vest has a square shoulder and straight underarm to side seam.

2. Neck and hems simply turned under on Eureka crew. Center seam makes vee a snap on Hot Patterns vest.

Helmi Trench Blouse by Named Narrow Legged Trousers/Mitchell Trousers by Closet Core/Mystery fabric

Shirt from months ago: Helmi Trench Blouse by Named-Added tucks and shortened

Narrow Legged Trousers/Mitchell Trousers by Closet Core/Mystery fabric

1. Loved these in wide leg version so had to try narrow leg. Added 1.5”-should have added a bit more to hit shoe.

2. Be sure to mark pleat marking on all pieces.

3. Fabric was linen like with a backing so kind of wonky to work with but I knew that going in.

4. Trouser facings, pleat, pocket and fly zip make a bit of extra work but worth it.

April GSG

Wednesday, April 12, 10:30, Sewing Lounge

Thursday, April 13, 10:30, First Sewing

Saturday, April 15, 10:30, TBA

Meeting Saturday at Treadle

Last chance for March Garment Sewing Group today at Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30 am.

Here are photos from our meeting on Thursday at First Sewing-

Pattern number TBD in linen
All the dots matched along the pleat!!
Now Jacket as modified in Sewing Workshop Club-pinwale cord, E-tee and Helix pant-all Sewing Workshop patterns
Japanese pattern in cable knit
Adaptation of Tremont Jacket
Burda 6990
I Spy quilt/Happy grandma 🙂
Simplicity 9275 in knit
Katherine Tilton blouse in lightweight wool
Burda 6463 as vest in wool
Vogue 1899
Liesl & Co Verdun Woven T-shirt

Wednesday at Lakes Makerie

Yesterday was our first March meeting-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, March 9 and at Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. Here’s what we saw at Lakes-

Stacker Jacket by Papercut Patterns in corduroy
Stacker Jacket, back view
New Look 6659 in denim
Sew House Seven Albert Street Skirt in stretch twill available at Lakes
Versatile Top and Pants from Tauko #5
Soho Coat from Sewing Workshop in wool
Chateau Coat from Sewing Workshop in double sided wool
Remy Top from Sew House Seven with free sleeve extension
Latest and greatest men’s shirt!
Cuff detail
Collar detail
Beautiful handwork

Your February Makes

Vests based on Tremont Jacket from Sewing Workshop
Vintage Shirt with tower placket
Talvikki Sweater/Named in double sided fleece
Attitude Pullover/Peekaboo Patterns
Neighborhood Hoodie/Liesl & Co. and Girl’s Dress/McCalls 6915
Carole’s sketches are always fun to see!
Self drafted sari skirt
Opal Coat/Paprika Patterns and Pants/KwikSew 3115
Logan Shacket/StyleArc in corduroy
Gallery Tunic/Liesl & Co
Hayward Tunic/StyleArc
Vest/Simplicity 1506
Vest/Butterick 6328 and Dress/New Look 6428-all the way from Texas!
A Way With Stripes/Simplicity 8556
Clare Coat/Closet Core
Elle Shirt With Mixit Top/Sewing Workshop in wool
Ikina Jacket 2/Sewing Workshop
What to do with a remnant of silk? Shoulder seams and buttons!

What will you be sewing for March-that in between, “I don’t really want to sew more wool but it’s still COLD” month!!

February Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Light and Shadow/Cutting Line Designs/Boiled wool

1. Cut size small and petited between shoulders and bust but not length.

2. Stabilized the hems with Steam a Seam and then topstitched.

3. Used a serged bias finish for armholes.

4. This vest requires a lot of fabric due to the neck cowl but is worth it.

5. The fabric requires a great amount of steaming, press and pounding but again well worth it.

Vogue 1541/Cotton shirting

1. This is my second make from this pattern. I like her construction techniques but find the sleeves very narrow.

2. I petited between the shoulder and bust and shortened the front placket 7” and cut it on the bias.

3. I also straightened the outside collar edges instead of using the curve shape.

4. Her collar instructions are a little tricky so I used my own method. It’s a fun make but time to move onto another pattern for a woven tunic.

Navy Travel Pants/Jalie Vanessa #3676/Poly travel fabric-hard to see in photo 🙂

1. This is TNT pattern for me and thought it would work for a staple travel pant, especially on a plane.

2. Polyester is never my first choice but in this case it worked well for my needs.

3. I converted the waistband to one piece and eliminated the faux fly zipper.

4. A quick make and a versatile pattern.

McCalls 7360, View A/Japanese cotton gauze

1. I did not need to petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten the sleeve length by one inch.

2. The pattern has a 2 piece sleeve which I like but I would do a continuous or tower placket next time.

3. I used a burrito roll for the yoke and applied placket and cuffs ws to rs.

4. I will use this pattern again – other than out dated construction techniques it checks a lot of boxes.

Simplicity 7194, View A/Organic cotton knit and ribbing

1. Another TNT pattern that I often hack to meet my needs or my fabric needs- in this case too much stretch!

2. I changed the cowl to a T neck by removing width and length from pattern piece. If I did it again I would make the T neck out of ribbing but I didn’t have enough ribbing after making bottom band and cuffs from ribbing.

3. I wanted more of a boxy fit so I straightened the side seams from bust to hem.

Kristin’s Garments:

Burda 5941/Assorted corduroys and wovens

1. Made a size 16 for bodice, size 18 at hips.

2. One piece collar went in very easily with facings.

3. Sleeves went in flat very well.

4. Bust dart built in with the two horizontal seams. Makes pocket application a bit awkward.

5. Front placket is part of front facing-worked well.

6. Took sleeves and side seam at bust in 1/2” and that improved the fit by a lot.

T:201 Elastic Tie Sweater/The Assembly Line/Pendleton wool

1. Loved working with the wool! Fit turned out to be wonderful-size medium.

2. Elbow dart in sleeve; sleeve facing at hem.

3. Learned how to use eyelet stitch but it was a bit small for the tie.

4. Made a narrow hem-would add to length next time.

5. Made elastic cording from cotton knit-jersey rolls to right side (wrong side shows) on crossgrain and to wrong side (right side shows) on straight of grain.

T:201 Elastic Tie Sweater/The Assembly Line/Cotton waffle knit

1. Omitted neck facing and holes for ties.

2. Took dart out of sleeve:

1. Draw a line from hem to tip of dart, parallel to grainline.

2. Fold dart closed.

3. Draw straight line from armscye (close to side seam) to each side of newly opened area.

4. Fold this newly drawn “dart” closed.

5. True up the hem.

3. Finished the neck edge and hems with knit strips and sewed all seams with knit strips.

4. Took in sleeves and side seams by 1/2” to down size from woven pattern.

OOPVogue 8616/Activewear knits

1. Split neck version-shaped front and back center seams. Vee seemed to open too high for comfort so fiddled with that.

2. Pattern calls for a neck zipper but not necessary.

OOP Vogue 8616/Activewear knits

3. Wrap version-shoulder seams continue up to folded over neck edge. Stitched down the fold to keep things neat.

March 2023 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, March 8, 10:30 Lakes Makerie

Thursday, March 9, 10:30 First Sewing

Saturday, March 11, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods

Wednesday Photos

Here are pics from yesterday-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, and then at Sewing Lounge on Saturday. Great sewing!!

Madrid Top/Sewing Workshop adapted to knits and no front closure-knit from Sewing Lounge
Sew House Seven in yummy bamboo fleece from Sewing Lounge
Art Gallery knits inButterick 6633
Renee Pant/Jalie in preteen size (long legs 🙂
Roxy from Stylearc in wool from Sewing Lounge
Marley Shirt/Stylearc
Vogue 9347 Blouse adapted to jacket
Vintage men’s shirt pattern in double fleece
Beautiful wool/silk self drafted to use every thread 🙂
Eureka/Sewing Workshop in soft knit for the perfect vest
KwikSew 2896-made for Valentine’s Day-jacket
Anything But Ordinary/Cutting Line Designs and lined!
Jarrah Top/Megan Nielsen in textured knit from Quilter’s Haven
The other Jarrah Top in waffle knit from Quilter’s Haven
Ebony Tunic/Closet Core-gray knit from Quilter’s Haven

This Week’s Meetings/Last Week’s Classes

Garment Sewing Group week is upon us! Hope to see you!!

Wednesday, 2/8 at Quilters’ Haven, 2930 146th St Suite 108
Rosemount MN 55068. We were there for a fall Saturday meeting.

Thursday, 2/9 at First Sewing, Southtown Center, Bloomington AND Fabric Swap!

Saturday, 2/11 at The Sewing Lounge, 987 Selby Av., St. Paul

Last week was our first day of classes in the Lakes Makerie space-Open Studio and Basic Sergery-

Last of January Photos

I hope you are in the sunshine somewhere-it’s beautiful!! Speaking of beautiful-here are the remaining sew and tell pics. Another great month of sewing!

Lisette 6296
Simplicity 9291 Gertie pattern
Shucks, I didn’t write down the wrap sweater pattern! Can anyone help me out?
Sapporo Coat/now Nova Coat from Papercut Patterns
Vogue 1784
OOP coat pattern
Historically correct doll bodice
Daughter/mother duo in The Blouse by Avid Seamstress (daughter) and Estelle Ponte Jacket by Stylearc (mother)
Madden Skirt by Tessuti Patterns
Tremont Jacket/Vest by The Sewing Workshop X 2
Nancy’s Blouse by Silhouette Patterns in rayon batik
McCalls 7874 from two old sweatshirts!
Vogue 8854
Wool Coat-Logan Shacket by Stylearc
Copied ready-to-wear/still making modifications

Happy sewing for February!!

January Garment Sewing Group Photos

Another wonderful week of meetings despite weather challenges! It is such a pleasure to get together with like minded people and talk about sewing. And afterwards at lunch, too!

Check out the article in Minneapolis/St. Paul Magazine about all the wonderful fabric store options in the metro area! Old news for us but about time everyone else hears about it 🙂

Garment Sewing Group-January 2023

Debbie’s Garments:

Simplicity 9106, cotton flannel

1. Standard petite adjustments were made as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment and overall garment length by 1 inch.

2. The back hem was made even to the front so that the wrong side of the floral print would not be visible.

3. Instead of slip stitching the inside collar, I added a bias strip to cover neck edge.

4. I basted a contrast facing to right front then had my serger cut at basting stitch line. Then the the facing was wrapped around serger stitch to have contrast from facing show and again not have wrong side of navy print visible. The trim was stitched in the ditch to secure.

5. Contrast cuffs were added to sleeves.

Green Plaid Shirt

Helga Shirt by Tessuti Fabrics, View B
(Helga is OOP-new version is Harlow) in textured cotton

1. Determined size then did fitting adjustments, made a muslin and then started over. Needed to go down two sizes. – it is very oversized.

2. Generally the pattern has very good construction techniques but it does go from 3/8” to 1/4” seam allowances so you must pay attention. Also there is a lot of hand basting that could be replaced by serging an edge and press under.

3. This was a fun but challenging make. Too many pattern fit adjustments were needed and that affected the neck opening and slide slits a bit. Also, plaid fabric probably wasn’t the best choice when matching seams.

Tabitha Tee by Love Notions in cotton knits

1. This a TNT pattern, especially when using up leftovers.

2. For this make I sewed the rst of neckband to wrong side of tee and then topstitched the band at neck edge.

Kristin’s Garments:

Assembly Line Shirt Dress in charcoal tencel
No safety pins!!

1. Features: bust and bodice back darts, skirt is more a-line, fold over placket, simple turn under sleeve placket.

2. Started with a medium size bodice and large skirt-bodice snug so redrew lines and cut a large size for bodice.

3. Sleeves are very similar to the Burda pattern. Turning under the placket was quick and easy, especially with the tencel. Sleeve cap less shaped than Burda.

4. Fold under placket was another time saver.

5. Good instructions, lots of information, mostly clear 🙂 Happy with my fabric choice.=

Burda Shirt Dress #5971 in stretch twill
No safety pins!!

1. Features: bust darts only, straighter skirt, not as much shape, folded sew-on placket, traditional sleeve placket.

2. Made size 16 bodice and 18 skirt. Fit well.

3. Sleeve has a well shaped cap, took a little easing with the twill.

4. Pattern instructions were misplaced so followed Grainline instructions.

Burda 6067, Neck B in cotton knit

1. Burda has a “new look” which seems to mean even less instructions! But still the same great drafting.

2. Narrow-but not too-turtle neck. Long sleeve has ruching with a strip of elastic but not interested.

3. I sized up as it seemed to be close fitting, happy I did.

New Look 6469 in rayon knit

1. Similar to Laundry Day Tee made previously except raglan instead of set in sleeves.

2. Pattern calls for a zip with the turtle neck but not necessary with rayon knit. Turtle neck very similar in size to the Burda tee above.

3. I like the fit of the New Look better than Love Notions Laundry Day.

February Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, February 8, 10:30 at Quilters Haven in Rosemount

Thursday, February 9, 10:30 at First Sewing in Bloomington

Saturday, February 11, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge in St. Paul