September Inspiration

Oh. My. Goodness! Thursday and Saturday were such great meetings-can’t wait to see what tomorrow at Sewing Lounge brings! And Maggy has worked really hard to find chairs and a comfortable arrangement for all of us.

Let’s get to some photos!

Cielo Dress/Closet Core minus the bottom part of the sleeve
Style Sew Me
Simplicity 8988
Fit for Art Carpe Diem Dress
Www.dressagirlaroundtheworld.com
Olympia Dress/Love Notions
Huron Top and Saltmarsh Skirt/Merchant & Mills
Crane Street Tee/Sewing Workshop
Butterick Jacket
Hong Kong Vest/Sewing Workshop
Inspiration for jacket above from Japanese Textile Exhibit
Great use of a great border print
Self drafted cape with feather trim
Reversible vintage tablecloth Chicago Jacket/Sewing Workshop
The reverse of jacket above

More Photos from August

After going through these photos, I just can’t wait to see what everyone brings for September. Pat yourselves on the back-you rock the sewing world!!!

See you this Thursday (First Sewing), Saturday (Ginny’s) or next Wednesday (Sewing Lounge). Or maybe all three days!!

Simplicity wide leg pant with personal slopes
Bonn Shirt from Itch to Stitch
Frankie from Sewing Workshop
Silhouette Patterns 575 with some great modifications
OOP Vogue
By Popular Demand/Cutting Line Designs and Pietra Pant/Closet Core
Great print in Gallery Shirt/Liesl Patterns
KwikSew 3555 and Free Range Slacks/Sew House 7
Little girl’s Dolce Dress/Love Notions
Blouse from Tauko Magazine
Just too much fun!!

Ginny’s on Saturday!

Garment Sewing Group meets Saturday at Ginny’s in Rochester

Our meetings start this Thursday, 9/8 at First Sewing, and then down to Rochester on Saturday, 9/10, finishing at Sewing Lounge on Wednesday, 9/14.

Our Saturday regulars were feeling left out of our Wednesday trips to Rochester so they decided to go on their own and I figured we might as well have our Saturday meeting at Ginny’s! It all worked out-if you’d like to attend and want to carpool-email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com

August Garment Sewing Photos

I know, it’s September already-trying to catch up…

September 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, September 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester

Wednesday, September 14, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

And here’s what we sewed in August—-

Debbie’s Garments: 

Cadence Dress-Love Notions-Japanese cotton
  1. Did not petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten length on front, back and sleeves by 2 inches.
  2. This was a fun, easy and quick make. I am fan of Love Notions patterns. I appreciate all the options for sleeves, necklines and lengths offered. The bust darts help in shaping and the dress can easily slip over your head but a zipper closure is optional.
Butterick 5616-Linen
  1. I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.
  2. The under collar is the only pattern piece interfaced due to the fabric texture.
  3. I changed the order of construction and added petersham ribbon to inside collar for a clean finish instead of slip stitching.
  4. I did not enjoy working with this fabric  – too shifty.
  5. The jacket  end product isn’t what I had in my mind for a go to jean jacket. I think my choice of fabric had a lot to do with the end result.
KwikSew 3555-Italian cotton
  1. This is my favorite classic shirt pattern. If you can not find this particular pattern on line try a similar pattern from Cashmerette, Love Notions, Sewaholic, Grainline or the big four.
Jalie Dolman Top-French Terry and cotton interlock
  1. I raised the front neckline one inch and used a neckband to finish neck edge. 
  2. I left the hem length for front as is but shortened back length by 2 inches.
  3. This tee will be perfect for end of summer evenings and it decreased my fabric stash a bit – always a good thing.

Kristin’s Garments: 

Simplicity 9136-linen floral and rayon stripe
  1. Made a size 16 top and skirt. Size was perfect. 
  2. Cut 2” off of bottom edge of bodice to raise waist. Helped a lot! 
  3. Great fit through bust and shoulders.
New Look 6607-linen

1. Added 5” to skirt and raised waist on bodice 1.5”. Needed to piece the center fronts but like the result.

2. Pattern well written. Used rayon for muslin and skirt draped more than it did with the linen.

3. Made size 14.

Barry Woven Pant-Stylearc-linen
  1. Pattern instructions from Stylearc seem to be getting better! Pants easy to put together.
  2. Very much the “lantern pant” I’ve been looking for!
  3. Eliminated the “ruffle” at top of waist band.

Photos from Wednesday Meeting

We’ll be at First Sewing on Thursday, August 11 at 10:30 for version 2 of GSG and Fabric Swap!

Here are photos from today at Treadle Yard Goods-

Assembly Line Wrap Jacket
Wren Blouse/Chalk and Notch and Remy/Sew House Seven
Ilford Jacket/Friday Pattern Co
New Look 6340
Plaza Pant/Sewing Workshop
OOP Men’s Shirts
Reserve Champion at Washington County Fair

August Meetings Coming Up/July’s Photos

August meetings for Garment Sewing Group are as follows:

Wednesday, August 10, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods

Thursday, August 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Blmgtn., and FABRIC SWAP

Saturday, August 13, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Hope to see you and your end of summer sewing!

July 2022 Garment Sewing Group Photos and Notes

Debbie’s Garments:

Closet Core Elodie Dress, Italian linen/cotton blend

I was a little hesitant making this dress due to style vibe and fitting concerns. I read lots of reviews, listened to Brenda and made a muslin. Then I thought go for it and I am glad I did. It is a fun make.

1. I did my petite adjustments between shoulder and bust but not any length!

2. The construction is easy and very clear. I did question the direction of stay stitching the pattern directs. It is just the opposite of the way I was taught.

3. Not fond of the construction technique used for the opening for the tie. Next time I would put in a buttonhole.

Somerset Tee/Maven Patterns, cotton jersey
A-line skirt, pattern unknown, cotton sateen

I have no idea what pattern the skirt is cut from. I have a traced pattern with no info on it but it is a TNT. The fabric is cotton sateen.

1. The pattern is simple and easy to make however the fabric gave me a little trouble. Thought I was buying a panel but it was sold by yardage. Therefore I really needed to be careful cutting so I could get the print where I wanted it.

2. Again, fabric was scarce so instead of losing fabric to a hem I serged a bias strip around the hem.

3. I put in a side invisible zipper and the waist is shaped with facing, no waistband.

Coral Boatneck Tee/Somerset Tee by Maven patterns (photo above)

1. I did not need any petite adjustments but I did shorten length on front, back and sleeve one inch.

2. I love a boatneck and this is a good one. The directions are clear and concise and produce RTW results.

3. I would decrease the width of the back neckline with small darts on paper pattern before cutting the next make.

4. This was a fun make. I like the variety of sleeves the pattern offers.

Coral Tropical print pants/Jalie Eleonore/cotton stretch sateen

1. This is a TNT pattern that I make often. Each time I add or delete design features.

2. I eliminated the back pockets and I tapered the legs about 2 inches from knee to leg hems.

Kristin’s Garments:

J502 Wrap Jacket/The Assembly Line Patterns/Cotton woven stripe

1. Front band is cut on as part of front pattern piece and darts help make the turn. Interesting and well thought out construction.

2. Made a size medium which fit perfectly-graded to next size at hips. Sleeves a bit wide for my taste.

3. Did all interfacing as pattern directed. Fun summer jacket to wear tied.

Simplicity 3696 OOP/Linen

1. Basic raglan robe pattern which can be hard to find. In my stash for some time and still available on the internet. I made a size medium-it’s also a bit A-lined.

2. Misread placement dots for belt but it worked out in the end 🙂

3. Applied neck/front band to wrong side of robe and wrapped seam allowance with bias contrast fabric and love the detail.

4. Linen makes a wonderful robe for hot weather!

Vogue 8906 OOP, View C

Vogue 8906 OOP, View C/Linen

1. This is a view from a TNT pattern that I have always wanted to try. Cut on sleeves, no darts and a v-neck with some shaping pleats to boot!

2. Used a 3/8” seam allowance at neck for a closer neck. Did a forward shoulder just because it’s an old Vogue. Had to add a cuff because sleeve was too short. Topstitched facings down.

3. Buttonholes were a struggle but Solvy did the trick!

August Garment Sewing Group Meetings

Wednesday, August 10, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods

Thursday, August 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, August 13, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Saturday’s Meeting

A beautiful summer Saturday and great sewing inspiration!

We’ll be at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis, on Wednesday, July 13 and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, July 14 (and FABRIC SWAP). Both start at 10:30 am!

Japanese panel in Vogue 1264
Vogue 1264-who’s still got it in their stash?
Front of Vogue 1264 jacket and Vogue 1729 pants (they have a nice ankle pleat)
Final of 3 Japanese panels (first one in June) Assembly Line Long Sleeve Tunic
Front pattern piece was cut to accommodate panel
Terra Tunic from Love Notions-saved!! Are you supposed to READ pattern instructions?? Happens to all of us 🙂
Trio Pattern from Sewing Workshop and Barry Pant from StyleArc
Butterick 6856 in a beautiful silk and perfect buttons!

Happy Sewing!!

More Inspiration from June

We’ll be at First Sewing all day, Thursday, June 30 (end of another month!) Serger in the am and Sew Social pm. Still room for YOU!

Elodie Dress/Closet Core-Men’s Jacket/Simplicity 8962
Kingston Jacket/Sew Beautiful-York Top/Seamwork
Self drafted top
Inspired by buttons!
Vogue 1868
Anthea/Anna Allen
Remy Top
OOP Simplicity Kimono Jacket
What to do with a border print!
Remy Top/Sew House Seven
Hey, hey it’s the monkeys!!

We’ll be at Lakes Makerie on July 13 for the start of July Garment Sewing Group! See you there——

Serger Class starts next week AND June GSG

Our next Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts next Thursday, June 30 at 10 am at First Sewing, 494 and Penn! The class continues July 7 and 21. Go to “Classes at First Sewing” in the menu bar to register.

June Garment Sewing Group:

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy Jacket, Burda 6760, View C, Silk Matka and Rayon Crepe Lining

1. This is an unlined jacket so my first step was to draft lining pattern pieces. The sleeves are underlined. Also a dart in the sleeve creates a 2 piece look which I like. It eliminates a lot of bulk.

2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment but did not shorten length because it is a cropped style.

3. Due to the texture of the main fabric I only interfaced the under collar.

4. Also due to the texture of the fabric I did not top stitch.

5. This pattern is from 2015. It was a fun make and I also decreased my pattern collection.

Coral with Navy Dot Classic Blouse, NewLook 6698, View B, Cotton Sateen

1. As always I did my petite adjustments but did not shorten the hem length – this is a crop length shirt.

2. The pattern envelope gives yardage for a skirt. There is no skirt in this pattern – maybe a typing error. That should have been my first clue that the pattern had some flaws.

3. The neckband is too short for neck and the directions for collar insertion are poor.

4. The only feature different from my TNT blouse pattern is the “cuff”.

Navy Gingham Pants, Burda 7062, Gingham with Bemberg lining, see photo above

1. This pattern is from 2013 and has been updated in the catalog.

2. I eliminated the side slits and added a lining.

3. This is a TNT for me and it will stay in pattern collection.

Coral “Scraps” Blouse

Coral “Scraps” Blouse, Liesl+ Co Geneva V-Neck Blouse, Cotton lawn, stripe and sateen

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and removed 2 inches from the length. I also softened the shirt tail hem and removed length from there as well. The designer is tall!

2. I raised the v-neck 1 inch.

3. I changed construction steps because I wanted to have the neck band on the rs of the blouse. I used the shorten/lengthen line to determine the the length of back top and bottom.

4. I chose this pattern because of the lantern sleeve. I am not fan of v-neck blouses but I thought I would give it a try anyway.

5. It was a fun make even though the construction techniques are kind of putsy and 1/2 seam allowances are used – WHY?!

Kristin’s Garments:

Summer Jacket/The Fold London, Vogue 1648, Stretch woven blend

1. Pattern includes lining but didn’t want to lose the stretch of fabric so just used facings.

2. Very large pleat in back was topstitched through all layers-directions had it hanging loose-I wanted a bit more of a “yoke line” to copy garment.

3. Center front overlap was eliminated so no closure. Corners at collar were rounded.

4. This pattern was previously made in fleece. Fits surprisingly well (no forward shoulder needed, bust dart in proper place, sleeve is great.

Brick Summer Pants, Vanessa Fluid Pants/Jalie Patterns, Silk blend fabric? See photo below

1. Added 3” to length-omitted cuff.

2. Darts are extended 2” for a lower seat 🙂

3. Waist band is made into one continuous strip eliminating seams and tie.

4. Great pants pattern-TNT!

Woven Summer Blouse, Harmony Blouse/Love Notions, Rayon challis and Jalie Vanessa Pants

1. Made to pattern as the hip area is already wider.

2. Neck binding is supposed to be turned all the way under, I like wrapping the serged edge.

3. Center back seam has waist shaping but the opening isn’t necessary to get blouse on. I just sewed the button on permanently.

4. Several sleeve variations. Great summer woven tee with a dart.

5. Great fit for my body!

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck
Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Tomato rayon knit vee neck

1. Shortened length 2”.

2. Both necklines are great depthwise. Vee is quite pointed and the rayon fabric didn’t help. Pattern also includes a scoop neck and all sleeve length variations.

3. Definitely a TNT!

July 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, July 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, July 13, 10:30 Lakes Makerie, Mpls

Thursday, July 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap 🙂

May Garments

Squeaking in on the last day of May…for June meeting dates and locations, please scroll to end of post-

Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy/Teal Tie Knit Dress, New Look 6650, Cotton jersey

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the hem length by 2 inches – whoops – it feels a little too short.

2. I did a serged “bias” neck finish instead of turning under neck edge twice and topstitching as pattern directs. I also eliminated the side slit.

3. Fun, easy make that can be casual or dressy, depending on fabric choice.

Navy Stripe Dolman Tee, Jalie 3352, Rayon jersey

1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as shortening hem length.

2. I added a neckband rather than folding neck edge to ws and top stitching. Also added cuffs to again avoid turning hem to inside and topstitching.

3. This is a TNT pattern for me. I like how it fits, there are several looks and it is a great scrap buster.

Navy Print Quilted Cardigan, New Look 6351 hack, Liberty of London with cotton flannel batting, rayon crepe lining

1. I tried to copy a RTW garment and did fairly well except I wish I would have used very light batting instead of flannel. It is not as soft as RTW garment.

2. Besides my standard petite adjustments I straightened the CF so the fronts meet, not overlap.

3. For construction: stitch side fronts to fronts for main fabric, batting and lining. Follow same procedure for CB seam. Quilt front, back and sleeves using walking foot and 1/2 vertical rows at 3.0 stitch length.  Jacket is then serged together.

4. I added a contrast band for CF and hemmed sleeves and bottom with bias strip bands.

5. The RTW version added buttons and buttonholes – I did not.

6. It was a good project to work on during our cold spring but I am done with quilting for a long time now!

Coral Side Button Tee, Simplicity 9229 hack to copy Love Notions Lincoln Top, Cotton modal

1. To redesign the pattern I eliminated the side seam and made the back and wedge one piece allowing for sa and placket folds. Later I added a placket to button edge because my math was incorrect! A two inch length of fabric was pressed wst and serged to rst of shirt back side seam.

2. On the side fronts I added 1 inch plus sa for button hole placket.  The placket edges were clean finished, pressed to ws and top stitched.

3. The back hem is longer by one inch.

4. I did make buttonholes but really not necessary.

5. This became more of a chore than I planned on and I realize now I should have just bought the Love Notions pattern! 

Kristin’s Garments

Woven Tee, Coram Top/Allie Olson, Rayon woven
Debbie’s Coram in cotton shirting

1. Quick to sew with raglan sleeves. Bust dart is a plus.

2. As with most popular patterns of this type, the neck is on the larger end of spectrum.

3. I took it in 3/8” along shoulder dart and through sleeve as it seemed a bit low under arms also.

4. Neck band also seemed long but bias binding can stretch when pressed so follow pattern directions and adjust as needed.

Summer Dress, Sandra Betzina Vogue 1530 OOP View A, Scuba knit/wool knit

1. Eliminated center back seam. Added back darts.

2. Eliminated skirt lining because scuba hung nicely without. Turned under underarms and stitched to make up for lack of lining.

3. Like the fit and the way it went together.

4. Omitted the trim down the side seams as wool knit was thick.

5. Disappointed with fusible interfacing results around decorative neck hole. Glued too well.

6. Hole in front yoke fussy but a fun detail.

Willow Wrap Dress/Love Notions, Rayon knit

1. Made the first version in a medium and that was too small so tried XL and that was much better except bust was big so took shaping out of front bust area.

2. Tried elastic trim for neckline (floral version) and band per pattern (solid version).

3. Lots of options-higher neckline and lower (solid knit was in between), pleated front and plain front, 3 sleeve lengths and a children’s version (separate purchase).

June 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday, June 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

Saturday, June 11, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul