Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-
Garment Sewing Group
Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress
McCalls 7470, View B
Fine wale corduroy
This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier. My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
I made the following construction changes: burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric. A fun make.
Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt
My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)
adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011,
Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.
While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try.
To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.
Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi
Simplicity 9374, View D
Light weight organic cotton fleece
Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated pockets and interfacing.
Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)
McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848
Cotton knit with very little stretch.
This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!
Navy wool/multicolor wool
I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.
The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills
I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂
KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy
Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand
After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time.
No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.
Clara Leggings by Jalie
Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!
December 2021 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Saturday, Nov. 13, 10:30, will be the final installment of November’s Garment Sewing Group. Here is a sampling of what we saw at First Sewing on Thursday-and fabric was swapped-thanks to all who participated!!!
To quilted jacket
An original Rebecca Anderson quilt design called Star Song Modern Quilt available from rebeccaruthdesigns.com
First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!
Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…
Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt
Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt
1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.
2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.
3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .
This make was a little slow but well worth it.
New Look 6735, View A
Luxury Plush Rib Knit
1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.
2. This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.
3. I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.
Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.
Two Stash Buster Tees:
Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical Tee
Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit
1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.
Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top
Jalie Dolman Top 3352
1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.
I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.
2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.
Fall Trend: Sweater Vest
Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck
Sweater knit with fleece backing
1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!
2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.
3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.
4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!
Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse
1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.
2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.
3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.
4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven
Bulky cotton sweater knit
1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck
2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.
3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.
3. Constructed per pattern.
4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.
One Thing Led to Another
Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan
Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above
1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.
2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!
Funnel Neck Dress
1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.
2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.
3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.
November Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Our last October meeting is tomorrow (Thursday) at First Sewing and we’re going to try a fabric swap.
GOT FABRIC? WANT FABRIC? Bring it to the Garment Sewing Group meeting at 10:30 am. We’re not going to charge money or anything, leave your fabric or take it back home-patterns, notions, anything sewing related.
Here are photos from Saturday (Treadle) and Wednesday (Ginny’s)-
The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!
So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:
Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am
Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to email@example.com
Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!
A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!