Last summer sewing and a little bit for fall-
September Sew and Tell
Author: Kristin
September Garment Sewing Group
Things didn’t change much under our new name-we still were inspired by everyone’s creativity and interest! People attended from Texas, Alaska and Florida! That’s the beauty of Zoom and why we intend to continue at least one Zoom meeting after we are back to normal (don’t go there 🙂
Garment Sewing Group
September 2020
Debbie’s Garments:
Coral Novelty Knit Casual Jacket-
NewLook 6251, View A
1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
2. Used mesh for pocket bags and cut 4 rather than 2 as pattern directs. I intended to increase pocket size to enable pocket bag to be caught in the stitching of hem and zipper but I forgot! Because of that the pockets needed to be topstitched to garment front.
3. I inserted invisible zippers in princess seam rather than exposed zipper at pocket as pattern directs. I also applied a contrast binding to zipper tape.
4. The fabric was difficult to work with. The serger chewed more than cut and the walking foot was necessary for all other stitching.
Kristin’s Cropped Rust Jacket and Debbie’s Navy Version-
Closet Core Sienna Maker Jacket, View C
Pendleton Wool
1. I did not make a muslin for this jacket but instead did my usual fitting adjustments.
2. I should’ve made a muslin – so I did before I made the second jacket. The new adjustments included shortening between shoulders and bust one inch, forward shoulder and narrow shoulder even though it is a drop sleeve.
3. The jacket is for the intermediate sewer and it is extremely important to follow instructions especially when making back placket and when to put buttonhole on sleeve!
4. I did make some changes in construction – interfaced pocket hems, did a single one inch hem rather than a double fold hem, and horizontal buttonholes on back placket rather than vertical.
5. I am very pleased with my second make and grateful to have a personal fit master. I was able to thank her with an almost finished Rust Sienna Jacket that fits her nicely!
6. Kristin’s addendum-As long as you have another body-you don’t need to make a muslin 🙂 I am very happy with my Sienna Maker Jacket! I added buttons and a one inch band to the sleeves with not too much left for a hem but it worked and will be a fun fall jacket. Thanks, Debbie!
Terracotta Water Wave Jacket-
Itch to Stitch Hvar Jacket
Soft Gauze Sweater Knit
1. I used the wrong fabric for this pattern accidentally! I had intended to use this fabric for another project and somehow got the two mixed up and didn’t discover my mistake until it was too late. Oh well.
2. The pattern calls for drapey woven or stable knit. The sweater knit did not fit that category so I adjusted by eliminating the darts and thinking of the garment as a sweater and not a jacket. I also shortened the length between shoulder and bust and went down a size by taking large seam allowances.
3. This is a quick and easy make. The entire garment was serged except for topstitching the princess seams. An afternoon make.
Kristin’s Garments:
Warmer Weather Fall Blouse
Cielo Top and Dress by Closet Core Patterns, View B
Rayon woven
1. I’ve made the dress before and knew that it was a bit broad at the neck and shoulders so placed center fronts and backs on fold but then rotated keeping waist point on the fold but making neck a bit smaller and hips wider. Kind of a quick fix but it worked very well.
2. The short yokes at the shoulder I cut four and doubled them to give a little more stability.
3. I tried it as a longer blouse but decided I like short better in this blouse.
4. Pattern directions great. I used contrast inside the lantern sleeve.
5. A vest with deep armholes would go nicely over this blouse-if it stays this cold!!
Fall Ankle Pants
Pietra Pants by Closet Core Patterns, View B
Light coral denim
1. Nice fitting pattern right out of the envelope. Extended the center back by curving seam allowances across back waistband and waist to 1/4” at center back and back to 5/8” at side seam.
2. Pockets take a little bit of puzzling but worth the work.
3. The treatment of the elastic and back waistband at side seams makes for a bit of bulkiness.
4. Back waistband also got a bit bulky as the pattern is high waisted and there’s a lot to gather. I stitched the elastic down and pressed it to try to flatten.
5. View B is a cropped length and View A is longer.
6. Fun fall pant until socks are a necessity.
Eileen Fisher Dress Copy
Jalie Nicole Dress and Top
Ponte knit
1. Thought the EF dress would be a great fall wardrobe staple but as I looked at the pattern measurements it became clear that it was a very close fitting pattern. So I sized up. Kind of nice that the pattern pieces for bodice and skirt are two separate pieces and then joined when you lay them on fabric to cut out.
2. First version (in red) was more body skimming than I wanted so I dropped the armhole, added at side seams and used a larger sleeve.
3. Second version is closer to what I was looking for. The bust dart is quite big and ends up pokey but I will most likely be wearing the dress under a jacket like my Sienna Maker Jacket by Debbie 🙂 and I’m not going to stress about it. I already spent the better part of a day trying to remedy the problem and ended up extending the dart by 1/2” and giving it a good press!
October Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:
Thursday,October 8, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville
Saturday, October 10, 10:30 at Treadle , St. Paul
Tuesday, October 13, 10:30 at Treadle, St. Paul
Wardrobe Planning Class on Zoom
It’s too late to catch our Zoom Basic & Beyond Sergery class (it started today!!) but the Wardrobe Planning class is this Saturday, 8/22, from 9:30-12:30 on Zoom.
All you need is your jumble of ideas about what you need for fall and managing most of your life from home (!). A few pictures of things you’d like to make or fabrics that are asking to be sewn would be helpful too.
We’ll talk about planning and execution 🙂 and help you define a wardrobe capsule that works for your life.
I’m super excited because I finally created a My Body Model croquis so I can do some drawing for my fall wardrobe plan. Not sure it will be social media worthy but I’m hoping it will inspire me and maybe you!
Call Treadle at 651-698-9690 to register and Debbie and I will send you the link and see you on Zoom!
More August Inspiration
August Club Photos
Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
August 2020
Debbie’s Garments:
Summer Floral Shirtdress:
New Look 6449, View C, Stretch Cotton.
1. This garment is similar to the shirtdress I made in June (McCalls 7351) but less shaping due to no waist definition. Also it was a better choice for the stretch cotton fabric.
2. I shortened length between shoulder and bust but not dress length.
3. I omitted the chest pocket – not a fan.
4. I made several construction changes: -added a contrast yoke facing using the hot dog roll method – a little tricky due to dress length – just go slow when turning to right side.
-Used Grainline neck stand and collar method rather than New Look’s method.
– Omitted cuff and tab on sleeve and made short sleeve length with roll up cuff.
– Used straight hem rather then curved as pattern shows.
5. Although I like the pockets, I am not a fan of floating pockets. I may topstitch them in place.
Two More Backyard Tee-Shirt Dresses and New Look 6449:
Border print, Viscose Rayon, View C.
1. Cut cross grain to take advantage of border.
2. Scooped out front neckline- maybe too much!
3. Omitted cuff on sleeve.
Green Sleeveless, Cotton Jersey with 5% Spandex.
1. Cut cross grain for vertical stripe look.
2. Used chest pocket for hip pockets, the others were too large.
3. Not a fan of pattern armhole bands – would do differently next time……
There will not be a next time! This pattern has run its course for the season and I have used up my summer fabric so I am ready to move on.
Rusty Floral Skirt:
Simplicity 1560, View B, Rayon Challis
I made this skirt to pattern. It is quick and easy . I like the flirty panels and no waistband with facing finish.
Kristin’s Garments:
Summer Woven Cowl Blouse
Vogue 1701, View B, Cotton Lawn
1. Cowl has an invisible zip which went in very well.
2. Gathering at neck.
3. Cuff is supposed to button with a notched gap hem on sleeve but I shortened the cuff instead and applied in the round. Ended up pleating cuff and sewing on buttons to make cuff smaller.
4. Blouse is wide at hem so no alterations for hips 🙂
5. After being so proud of my zip application, it is awkward to wear and the cowl will fit over my head without needing a zip!
6. I like the blouse-a little style and cool to wear-just won’t put in a zipper again!
Ruffles Everywhere!
McCall’s 8042, View A, Rayon Challis
1. The photo on the cover appealed to me so I gave it a try 🙂
2. Front is cut single layer with lots of stitching lines and cutting lines to transfer. I folded on center and got pretty close.
3. Sleeve ruffle ends up as part of armhole and doesn’t meet at underarm so a small piece of bias tape is added but it finished nicely, just puttsy.
4. I needed more room at hips so whacked it off, added more and ruffled it. A very gathered month 🙂
5. Both the sleeves and front/back are squares at the neck-no shaping in toward neck so when you pull in gathers at neck, there’s a lot of fabric. The height of the underarm is also determined by how much you pull up the neck. There were no suggestions as to how much it should be pulled in. I have used a stretchy cord so I can tie it where I want it and still get it over my head and not adjust every time.
6. The blouse is a keeper-the pattern is not 🙂
Linen Work Dress
Merchant & Mills Factory Dress, Crinkly Linen
1. Skirt front has two small pleats and is wider than skirt back so added a bit to the back in the form of two small pleats.
2. Nice fit, loose fitting but with a bust dart. Sleeves fold up as per pattern. No fit adjustments.
3. Added contrast pocket and facing for fun.
4. Pattern drafting was great. Pattern directions more for a sewist with experience but definitely a keeper!
September Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:
*Second Tuesday date is changed due to labor Day weekend
Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, September 12, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, September 15, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville
August Club is underway!
Tomorrow (Tuesday) is our second meeting and then we’ll also have Thursday morning at 10:30. We are meeting by Zoom again this month-you can register on the website by clicking on Fashion Sewing Club.
And here’s the Saturday sew and tell-
Hope you’ll join us Tuesday or Thursday!!
July Sew and Tell
Lots of you seem to be starting to sew again-hope springs eternal or you can only sew so many masks?
Either way we are inspired by you!!
July Fashion Sewing Club
Although we’d much rather like to see and be seen in person, the Zoom meetings have been a great substitute for getting together!
Debbie’s Garments:
Denim Blue Rayon Challis Shirtdress: Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress, View B.
1. Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust but did not shorten length.
2. I prefer to do the collar before side seams for easier fit adjustments so I changed order of construction and did the hot dog method for a contrast yoke facing.
3. I did not add the chest pocket and wished I would have added side seams pockets.
4. The button band instructions are confusing so be sure to read info on pattern piece thoroughly.
5. I feel the pattern runs big – I would go down a size if I make it again.
6. This is a fun pattern and I am finding loose dresses are so much more cool and fun to wear with the weather we are experiencing lately!
Blue Flora Wrap Top: New Look 6560, View C, 85% Cotton and 15% Linen Blend.
1. As always did standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.
2. The top does look short so I considered adding length but after reading many reviews (2019 pattern of the year on Pattern Review) I did not adjust length – good decision!
3. For security I added a snap at the center front and made serger loops for the tie belt.
4. This is a quick and easy make and perfect for keeping cool this summer.
Wide Cropped Denim Pants: New Look 6643 plus Burda 7058, Tencel.
1. To get the fit I used Burda from waist to crotch and for the look I used New Look from crotch to hem. I shortened the length by 4 inches in segments along the leg of the pants.
2. The Burda pants are a TNT pattern for me so it was fun to try out the wide leg from New Look and have success – these pants are cool and fun!
Pineapple Tee-shirt Dress: New Look 6449, View A, Cotton Lycra
1. My first step was to make my petite adjustments from shoulder to bust. I did not change the length.
2. This tee -shirt dress is less fitted than McCalls 7432 – my make from June club- and that works for me. There are times when I want a little more shaping but lately I am enjoying loose fitting dresses. This pattern does the trick! It is a quick and easy make.
Kristin’s Garments:
Knit Jumpsuit: Butterick 6330, View E, Liverpool knit
1. Easy summer sewing-neck and armhole hems are just turned under. Seam down center back with slit opening to allow getting the jumpsuit on 🙂
2. I like this style pocket at it lays better than an in-seam pocket (IMHO).
3. The legs are wide but not overly. I cut off 7” because the “shorter” length felt more summery. Hoping that the fabric relaxes a bit so the leg doesn’t stand open at hem so much.
4. Waist casing-1” seam allowance at waist, trim bodice seam and then press pant seam toward bodice and topstitch to form casing. This is a nice look, it worked very well. Would be easy to tack on a bow as shown in my inspiration pic.
5. Fit adjustments-I sized down one size in the pant and ended up going down one more because I didn’t want all the ease in pattern. Also, added an inch to bodice length and took off an inch in pant waist length (height/crotch depth 🙂
Woven Jumpsuit: New Look 6413, View A, Crinkle Linen
1. Fit-very good for overall length and waist location. Neck opening a bit large-I’d take a 1/4” seam next time for starters. Legs aren’t as tight as it shows on pattern cover-I liked how they turned out for me. Sleeves are to pattern for View A. Next time I will add a cuff to give a more stable hem that doesn’t stretch out-maybe washing will help?
2. Zipper opening at neck seemed to take some time but looked nice and was fairly easy in the end. A good sewing friend advised putting the zip in the neck and that probably was a better option.
3. Waist casing-pattern called for 5/8” seam allowance and then stitching seam allowance at edge and inserting elastic. We usually cringe at this when our young students encounter this in a pattern but the linen held together and I serged the raw edges together (not a bad idea to serge edges before sewing if they are raveling) and inserted elastic. I tried the topstitch method as above but in the end did not because it seemed to “blouse” better without it.
4. I didn’t include in-seam pockets because of added bulk and it also made the waist casing smoother.
5. Legs are fun rolled up at ankles too!
Wavy Stripe Shorts: Jalie Pull-on Pants and Shorts, No stretch woven
1. Great go-to pull on pant with just the right amount of ease-for me 🙂 Great waist shaping.
2. Made to pattern with required 3/8” seam allowances.
3. Waist casing is a facing that is sewn on and turned to inside. I especially like the shaping of the waist-not straight across but higher in back and lower (but not too low) in back.
Woven Stripe Shorts: Burda 6952, View B
1. This is a plus size pattern that I wanted to try to see if fit is any different than regular Burda patterns. Burda is still the bomb for pants fit, in my book.
2. The two views are the same except View A has darts, a zip and waistband. I was going to try adding the contour fitted waist band to the gathered version but there was a gap between idea/cutting out and execution-so it’s a narrower folded waistband as called for in View B.
Hello, Summer!!!
August Fashion Sewing Club via Zoom or at:
Saturday, August 8,10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, August 11, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, August 13, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville
June 2020 Fashion Sewing Club
When Debbie sent her photos in her back yard I had to take my photos in my surroundings-down on the farm 🙂 Hope you’ve been finding your happy place wherever you are-we hope to have some live meetings next month. Will keep you posted!
Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
June 2020
Debbie’s Garments:
Floral Tee Shirt Dress: McCalls 7432, View E
Art Gallery cotton spandex
1. Did my standard petite adjustments and breezed through this quickly. Fun make that I will wear often.
Poppy Backyard Tunic/Dress: Closet Case Cielo, View C
Textured Cotton.
1. Did my standard petite adjustments.
2. Changed order of construction to adjust fit if necessary.
3. Stabilized pocket seams.
4. Serged bias neck edge finish.
5. This is a fun make, I like the back shoulder yoke detail and of course the pockets.
Floral/Fleece Contrast Raglan Tee: Jalie Marie Claude
Floral from Tee dress and fleece from my stash.
1. I loved the combination of the two fabrics but didn’t have quite enough for the back.
I didn’t want to give-up so after looking at some RTW I was able to add some exit interest.
2. Using my scraps I cut apart the back pattern piece at my waist and cut two lower pieces to create faux button placket. I did add and stabilize seam allowances .
3. Placket edges are clean finished before stitching to upper back.
4. Tee is completed as pattern directs with the addition of buttons to the exit interest.
Purple Cut Apart Tee: McCalls 6964
Avalon Jersey, 94% cotton, 6% elastic.
1. Again, checking out RTW, I saw this tee and knew I had some fabric in my stash that would step up a basic tee and fabric.
2. Using my favorite tee shirt pattern as my base I cut apart the front pattern to form the design lines and added seam allowances.
3. Before constructing the tee, I added fusible interfacing to seam lines and clean finished placket edges. Three buttons were added for a little more interest.
Kristin’s Garments:
Camber Set #2-Top: Merchant & Mills Camber Set
Rayon fabric
1. Executed changes from last month-added to bottom edge of back yoke for a rounded back adjustment. I tried to cut one yoke on the bias so the crooked lines wouldn’t but my cutting was way off and then I sewed the bias cut yoke to the wrong side and it didn’t work anyway!!
2. Still love the fit of it-sleeves and all.
3. I made the neck band correctly this time and like the looks of it.
Cool Summer Woven Tee: Scout Tee-Grainline Studios
Rayon fabric
1. Executed changes from last month-sleeves and armholes and had to grab this out of the closet as I ran out of summer things to wear. Love the cool draping of the fabric-cooler than a knit tee! And quick to sew-no bust dart!
Cool Summer Woven Tank: Willow Tee-Grainline Studios
Cotton fabric
1. Very good fit and nice coverage at neck and armholes.
2. Serged the bias edges on, turned to wrong side and topstitched instead of their method.
3. Nice deep hem.
One More Woven Tee: Coram Top & Dress, Allie Olson Patterns
Cotton fabric
1. Saw this at Puyallup and had to give it a try. Raglan sleeves with a dolphin hem-love that name.
2. Pattern sewed up well-like the hem.
3. Neck band is a bias strip and sewn on like a knit band-maybe a bit wide but laid down pretty nicely.
Lace Jacket: Now Shirt from Sewing Workshop
Novelty lace-colored on right side, white on wrong side
1. I may have overcooked this one! Very much attracted to the colors of the lace but the white backing is high contrast. And the seam allowances stretched out so most were bound with bias binding.
2. Cut 2” folded strips for front placket (pattern has simple, folded placket), hems and sleeves. I intended to use these folded but a white seam allowance still showed through so I encased some of them.
3. Swapped the “Now” collar out and used the “Zen” as it was shorter and stood up. Not sure how it will “wear”.
4. Turned in to a long sew. I have a fair amount left so will most likely underline next time but really wanted the airiness of the lace to be a feature of the jacket.
July Fashion Sewing Club Dates
Thursday, July 9, 10:30 at SR Harris – maybe!
Saturday, July 11, 10:30 , Treadle -maybe!
Tuesday, July 14, 10:30, Treadle – maybe!
June’s Tuesday Inspiration
Great meeting-thanks to all who attended!
Thursday and Saturday meetings are coming up tomorrow at 10:30. Go to “Fashion Sewing Club” on the website menu and register to receive the link to the Zoom meeting and the Club sheets.
Some info to pass on:
Craftsy/Bluprint is going out of business. Try this (allavsoft.com) for saving all of your classes before they go away.
SBCC (Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick) patterns are made for petites and more. Paulette made the Paloma Blouse right out of the package and it fit! They are sold on patternreview.com and you can choose the print option as it is a pdf only pattern. I found several I’d like to try because even though I am regular height, I often “petite” patterns to bring up the underarms and waist. I’ll have to lengthen the skirt 🙂 There are a few average height patterns also.
Treadle will honor its 10% off if you attend Fashion Sewing Club, good through June 20. Here’s a pic of their latest arrivals. There are also new rayon batiks.
SR Harris is offering to let us in at 9 am for Fashion Sewing Club next month so we can meet and shop and not keep other customers away-their current limit is 15 people. We’ll let you know if it can be done!
We’re meeting for Sew Social at First Sewing tomorrow! First time in a long time-looking forward to getting together. There will be a limit of 8 people. You can email/text/call if interested in coming.
Linda Lee of Sewing Workshop is hosting some great videos each Tuesday at 11 am but you can watch them anytime-check her website/Facebook/YouTube.
And now for the Sew and Tell-you can send your photos before the meeting and we can all see them on Zoom.
Quick to sew and comfortable to wear
