Author: Kristin

More November Inspiration

November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!

December’s meetings are:

Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle

Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)

Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.

Hope to see you!!

Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing Workshop
And then there were two…
Light and Shadows from Cutting Line Designs
A chic thriftstore upcycle
An oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!

November’s Garments

Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-

Garment Sewing Group

November 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress

McCalls 7470, View B

Fine wale corduroy

  1. This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier.  My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
  2. It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
  3. I made the following construction changes:  burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
  4. I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric.  A fun make.

Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt

My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)

adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011, 

Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.

Cotton/linen blend

  1. While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try. 
  2. To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
  3. I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.

Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi

Simplicity 9374, View D

Light weight organic cotton fleece

  1. Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
  2. I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated  pockets and interfacing. 

Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)

McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848

Cotton knit with very little stretch.

This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!

Kristin’s Garments:

Casual Chanel 

Vogue 7975

Navy wool/multicolor wool

  1. I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
  2. Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
  3. Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
  4. Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
  5. Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
  6. Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.

Uniform Pinafore?? 

The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills

Cotton corduroy

  1. I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
  2. Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
  3. Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
  4. Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂

Floral/Spider Blouse

KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy

Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand

  1. After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time. 
  2. No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.

Slippery Leggings

Clara Leggings by Jalie

Activewear knit

  1. Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
  2. Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!

December 2021 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Saturday Meeting at Treadle

Saturday, Nov. 13, 10:30, will be the final installment of November’s Garment Sewing Group. Here is a sampling of what we saw at First Sewing on Thursday-and fabric was swapped-thanks to all who participated!!!

From quilt

To quilted jacket

An original Rebecca Anderson quilt design called Star Song Modern Quilt available from rebeccaruthdesigns.com

Mani’s Blouse from Silhouette Patterns

Proud grandma pillow 🙂

October Garment Sewing Group

First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!

Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…

Debbie’s Garments:

Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt

Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt

1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.

2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.

3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .

This make was a little slow but well worth it.

Teal/Green Cardigan

New Look 6735, View A

Luxury Plush Rib Knit

1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.

2.  This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.

3.  I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.

Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.

Two Stash Buster Tees:

Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical  Tee

McCalls 7247

Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit

1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.

Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top

Jalie Dolman Top 3352

French Terry

1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.

     I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.

2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.

Kristin’s Garments:

Fall Trend: Sweater Vest

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck

Sweater knit with fleece backing

1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!

2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.

3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.

4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!

Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse

Simplicity 9231

Rayon woven

1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.

2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.

3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.

4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.

Sweater Vest

Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven

Bulky cotton sweater knit

1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck

2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.

3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.

3. Constructed per pattern.

4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.

One Thing Led to Another

Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan

Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above

1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.

2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!

Funnel Neck Dress

Burda 6080

Ponte stripe

1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.

2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.

3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.

November Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Fabric Swap, Anyone?

Our last October meeting is tomorrow (Thursday) at First Sewing and we’re going to try a fabric swap.

GOT FABRIC? WANT FABRIC? Bring it to the Garment Sewing Group meeting at 10:30 am. We’re not going to charge money or anything, leave your fabric or take it back home-patterns, notions, anything sewing related.

Here are photos from Saturday (Treadle) and Wednesday (Ginny’s)-

September Sewing-Meeting on Wednesday!

We’ll be at Ginny’s in Rochester on Wednesday at 10:30 for Garment Sewing Group and then at First Sewing on Thursday with an added fabric swap after the regular meeting also at 10:30!

I know, it’s October but I’m a bit behind and can’t pass up the opportunity to share some of what we saw last month-

Liberty Shirt from Sewing Workshop-and then some
Hacking Louise Cutting to make the Holiday Shirt from Makers Atelier
Grace Top from StyleArc and one of four Free Range Slacks from Sew House Seven!
Handkerchief linen shirt
Working with Sandra Betzina pattern
Burnside Bibs from Sew House Seven
A great print tee
An Alabama Chanin inspiration
StyleArc Archer Jacket

October Garment Sewing Group Starts Saturday

The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!

So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am

Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com

Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!

A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!

September meetings start Wednesday/Inspiration from August

Looking forward to seeing what everyone’s been sewing! Meetings start at 10:30 on Wednesday, September 8th at The Sewing Lounge, 987 Selby Av., St. Paul, (there was a typo in my last email).

Then we’ll be at First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday at 10:30 and follow up with Sew Social from 1-4 pm.

Saturday’s meeting will be at Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am.

And a few pics from last month—

A great way to narrow a pant leg
Harrington Jacket

August Garments

Debbie’s Garments- Topping off summer!

Sea Glass Dotted Swiss Peplum Blouse

Simplicity 8384, View D

Cotton

1. Did standard petite adjustments and lowered bust dart.

2. Inserted button placket rs facing to ws shirt, opposite of instructions. I feel it gives a clean finish on both ws and rs, easier to topstitch and no slip stitching.

3. Did split hem on sleeve but did not follow pattern instructions – see sample.

4. Serged clear elastic along back waist rather than making a casing as pattern directs.

Coral Asymmetrical Placket Blouse

Grainline Studio Augusta Shirt

Tencel and cotton twill

1. Made too many petite adjustments – my fault, not a good choice for me.

2. Good construction techniques.

3. I find their sizing difficult – too much of a gap between body measurements and finished measurements.

4. Chose not to turn up cuff on sleeve.

Plaid Tunic

Simplicity 9130

Linen

1.Did standard petite adjustments as well as narrow shoulder.

2. Sewed the rs of facing to ws of front. Again, clean finish in and out, easier to topstitch and gives the top some detail.

3. Did bias edge finish on armhole as pattern directs.

Rusty Dolman Tee

Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops

Cotton Modal

1. Did standard petite adjustments but feel I would shorten in length and maybe go down a size. 

2. Pattern finishes all edges with fold over and topstitch. I added a neckband at neck edge and then did fold and topstitch on hems.

Kristin’s Garments

Summer Dress

Vogue 1698, View A

Seersucker

1. Constructed per instructions except didn’t interface the seersucker collar or placket. Collar would have been better with some interfacing.

2. Placket was straightforward-my topstitching of bottom of placket was not 🙂

3. Fit issues centered around bust/underarm/shoulder area. Should the horizontal seam be at bust point??? Took in side seams to underarm 3/4” and moved top of sleeve in 2” to alleviate sagging.

WearWithAll Skort

Jalie 2796 Multi-Sport Skort

Navy activewear knit

1. Lengthened 3” and chose the wider waistband.

2. Compression shorts are compressing! Recut 4 sizes up and was happy with less compression.

3. No elastic in waistband is really comfortable.

4. Next time I will make the short from a lighter fabric-whole skort is heavy.

5. Love the pockets and side detail.

Summer Jumpsuit

Kielo Jumpsuit by Named

Black cotton knit and floral novelty knit

1. Just had to try this jumpsuit after seeing it on Brenda. Perfect for relaxing after a hot summer day or, with this floral, going out on the town. Not too close fitting but not too baggy.

2. Sizing is according to bust as there’s ample space everywhere else 🙂 You want shoulder/bust area to fit.

3. Pattern directions are awesome with the neck/shoulder area all finished off with burrito roll techniques and under stitching. Facings need to be tacked down.

4. Fit was spot on for my chosen size-underarms and all-unless it starts growing as the day goes on.

5. Back closure was raised about 4” to cover straps.