Our last meeting of July’s Garment Sewing Group is this Wednesday, July 14th, 10:30 am at Lakes Makerie. This is our “On the Go” version-just for fun.
Until then, here is some inspiration from our Thursday and Saturday meetings-
Until Wednesday…
Author: Kristin
Garment Sewing Group starts tomorrow!
Our mixed up month of meetings starts at First Sewing in Bloomington tomorrow, Thursday, July 8th at 10:30.
No need to register, just come. Maybe we’ll have lunch and then there’s Sew Social from 1-4 pm. Bring your project 🙂
On Saturday, July 10th, we’ll be at Treadle Yard Goods for the Saturday version. We had a class at the store today and Roberta was just opening a large bundle of fabric…
We’ll finish our monthly meetings at Lakes Makerie with “Garment Sewing Group on the Go” on Wednesday, July 14th, also at 10:30 am. No registration necessary but we plan to go to lunch at Heather’s after and will need numbers for reservations.
New Classes Start This Week
Meeting new people is one thing you might not consider when you sign up for a class but Mary brought two aprons she make for Jennifer, who is a kindergarten teacher-just because we talked about it in class!
Make sure you meet some new people and learn some new sewing skills at our classes this summer! More information about each is found in menu bars at top of webpage-or call/text/email 🙂
July-August 2021 Classes
Classes at Treadle Yard Goods-register at treadleyardgoods.com
Pick a Pattern and Make It~we’ll help with any step in the process-choosing patterns to zippers and more. Wednesdays, July 7 and 21, 10-1 pm (also at Lakes Makerie Aug. 18 and 25)
PDF Patterns-Exploring, Ordering and Printing~choosing, ordering and printing. Wednesday, July 7, 2-3 pm (also at First Sewing Aug. 5)
Garment Sewing Group, Saturday, July 10th, 10:30 am We are changing to Wednesdays instead of Tuesdays-July 14 is kids’ camp at Treadle so we will try a Garment Sewing Group on the Go and meet at Lakes Makerie for our Wednesday meeting-this is NOT a permanent location change, just an exploration of resources 🙂 No need to register for this class-just come! First time free! (Also at First Sewing July 8)
Cover Stitch or Catch Up Sergery~tricks and techniques for coverstitch or serger (catch up only, please, not beginner). Wednesday, July 21, 2-3 pm (also at First Sewing Aug. 5)
Basic & Beyond Sergery In a Day!~Overcome the mystery 🙂 Wednesdays, August 4, 18, 25, 10-4 pm (also at Lakes Makerie Aug. 5, 19, 26)
Classes at Lakes Makerie-register at materialgirlsewing.com
Garment Sewing Group On the Go!~monthly meeting featuring garments, pattern modification and review, and the latest news in the sewing world. Wednesday, July 14, 10:30 am-no need to register-just come! First time free-(also at First Sewing July 8 or Treadle July 10)
Basic & Beyond Sergery~Overcome the mystery 🙂 Thursdays, August 5, 19, 26, 10-12 pm (Also offered at Treadle, Aug. 4)
Pick a Pattern and Make It~we’ll help with any step in the process-choosing patterns to zippers and more. Tuesdays, August 18 and 25, 9:30-12:30 pm (Also offered at Treadle July 7 and 21)
Classes at First Sewing-register at materialgirlsewing.com
Garment Sewing Group~monthly meeting featuring garments, pattern modification and review, and the latest news in the sewing world. Thursday, July 8, 10:30 am-no need to register-just come! First time free-(also at Treadle July 10 and Lakes Makerie July 14)
Sew Social~guided sewing and group fun! Thursdays, 1-4 pm, July 8, 15, 22, August 12, 19, 26
Coming Back to Sewing or Garment Sewing Need to Know~Garment sewing for the first time or getting back into it-we can help! Lecture only, no sewing. Thursdays, July 15 and 22, 10-12 pm
Cover Stitch or Catch Up Sergery~tricks and techniques for coverstitch or serger (catch up only, please, not beginner) Thursday, August 5, 1-2 pm (also at Treadle July 21)
PDF Patterns-All You Need to Know~choosing, ordering and printing-hands-on. Thursday, August 5, 2:30-3:30 pm (also at Treadle July 7)
July Garment Sewing Group Meetings
OK, buckle up and hold on-we’re taking a wild ride this month! Debbie and I are having a hard time keeping it straight so we’ll tell you often so you can stay on track-
First, there will be no Zoom meeting this month. We’ll see if we can make something work that is a recorded or live version-fingers crossed.
Second, we’re meeting at First Sewing on Thursday-they have been so good to us and have plenty of space and it’s easy access from most of metro area.
Third, we are changing our Tuesday meeting day to Wednesday to keep our teaching days to two per week and back to back. Hope this day change works for all-
Fourth, Treadle was having kids’ camp on our 2nd Wednesday so we thought we’d try “Garment Sewing Group on the Go”. Lakes Makerie opens at noon so the store has room for us. Sarah has been in business for several years now, carries indie patterns, great fabric and is easy to get to. Join us for lunch afterward at Heather’s nearby.
In a nutshell-
Thursday, July 8th, 10:30 am IN PERSON
At First Sewing, 7985 Southtown Center, Bloomington
Saturday, July 10, 10:30 am IN PERSON
At Treadle Yard Goods, 1338 Grand Ave., St. Paul
Wednesday (yes-a permanent day change), July 14, 10:30 am IN PERSON
At Lakes Makerie, 5257 Chicago Av. South, Minneapolis (NE corner of 53rd and Chicago—easy on street parking, promise 🙂
June’s Garment Sewing Group
We’re back in person. It seems sudden and wonderful and hard to remember what we’re supposed to do!
Thanks to everyone who attended-both in person and on Zoom. It was so good to see real faces again! See you in July-
Kristin’s Garments
Crinkled Linen Kimono
Burda 6244
Washed linen
1. Wanted a lightweight jacket in this crinkly, lovely colored linen. Listened to Linda Lee on YouTube-https://youtu.be/lEzd3WhK91— and decided to use a kimono pattern to minimize the challenges of working with the crinkle fabric.
2. Stabilized back neck, shoulders, sleeve cap and interfaced sleeve band and neckband.
3. I was able to use differential feed to finish edges of hem and then turn up and coverstitch with differential feed also.
4. I regret coverstitching the neckband as it waved a bit but guessing a second washing (I washed after construction to see what happens) and I won’t even be able to tell.
5. Garment is 4” shorter than pattern-ran out of fabric but also like it this length.
6. Shortened sleeves and added band for a more finished look than pattern.
Plum Tee
Classic Tee by Love Notions
Cotton Interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit
1. Made to pattern except for increasing hips one size. Love the flexibility of this pattern and the range of sizes. Great basic!!
Straight Leg Cropped Pant
Free Range Slacks by Sew House Seven
Linen
1. Made to pattern according to measurements. It’s a high waisted pant with roomy legs but a comfortable/close fit at hips.
2. Side strip gives a break up line for both front and side view.
3. Facing at waistband is nice for reducing bulk-I used rayon to further reduce bulk.
4. Omitted side pockets but put in one back pocket for cell phone. Fun inseam application.
Plum Tunic
Terra Tunic by Love Notions
Cotton interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit
1. Made the scoop version-will make it more crew next time-just personal preference.
2. Fabric made for a looser fit.
3. Mitered the corners on side seams as opposed to square fold in directions. Deep 2+’’ hem.
4. Length is to pattern. Made Large through shoulders and went to XL at hip.
Sailor Tunic
Terra Tunic by Love Notions-version 2
Cotton French terry-more cotton in stripe than solid
1. Made the boatneck version-facing, interfaced and all. Love it. Fits very nicely.
2. Wish I could say that for the rest of the top!! The plum tunic above was saggy baggy so I cut may pattern down to a medium at the shoulders and large at hips. Evidently I didn’t check amount of stretch. Still love it but will gift to daughter 🙂
Dandelion Green Tee
Melrose Top by Itch to Stitch
Rayon challis
1. One more of these in a great print. Fabric has been in stash. Got the lower band wide enough this time. Fixed the last one by opening up side seam bands and making vent.
2. This class is still available June 24 and July 1, 1-3 pm at First Sewing, Bloomington.
Debbie’s Garments:
Poppy Day Brightener Dress
Very Easy Vogue 8764
Yarn Dyed Cotton Shirting
1. Did my standard petite adjustments and narrow shoulder and rounded back changes.
2. I changed the V neck opening to a scoop and did not line the dress as pattern directs.
3. I did a serged bias edge for neckline and placed the zipper one inch lower than neck edge.
4. To adjust for fit and construction techniques I prefer I changed the order of construction.
5. The pattern is one I have been wanting to try for awhile and I am generally pleased with it, except for the large scoop neckline.
Orange Gingham Ruffle Sleeve Blouse
Amy Butler Liverpool Blouse Pattern
1. This is a favorite blouse pattern. I haven’t used it for awhile and found I needed to do some new fitting adjustments for lots of reasons! They include petiting between bust and shoulder, narrow shoulder adjustment
2. I also hacked the pattern a bit to copy a RTW look by shortening the hem and changing to a shirt tail style, and eliminating the cuff and adding a band and ruffle to the sleeve.
3. I did add interfacing to collar and placket because the gingham is light weight.
4. The designer of the pattern is a quilter so I did change some construction techniques that I prefer.
Coral Blazer
Metra Blazer with shawl collar by Love Notions
100% poly Ponte
1. I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust and shortened front, back and sleeve length by 2 inches.
2. I love the shawl collar and the faux welt pocket. Great designer details and very good sewing instructions.
3. The fabric sewed up beautifully using my seger but not the sewing machine. Therefore I needed to adjust some sewing techniques and use steam a seam on the hems.
4. I usually line the sleeves of an unlined jacket but due to the slippery feel of the fabric and the fact that it is a knit, lining the sleeves was not necessary.
5. It’s a wearable muslin that I will make again.
July Garment Sewing Group-Stay tuned for changes may happen 🙂
Thursday, July 8, 10:30, Zoom
Saturday, July 10, 10:30
Tuesday, July 13, 10:30 we may change to Wednesdays
We’ll Be In Person at Treadle!!!
Wow! It feels so good to be out with people! We finished our first day of classes back in person at Treadle today. New classroom is nice.
And now it’s time to get back in person for Garment Sewing Group!
We’ll be at Treadle for Garment Sewing Group:
Tuesday, June 8 and Saturday, June 12 at 10:30 am-our regular time
Our regular Zoom meeting will be on Thursday, June 10, for anyone who is from out of state or doesn’t want to get out just yet.
We’ll follow the same procedure as before-you can pay at the meeting or register online if that works better for you. Notes for the meeting will be distributed at the meeting.
Zoom attendees can register online and notes will be sent by email.
Our in person meeting will be in the new Treadle classroom-come to the Grand Av. entrance.
Hope you can make it some way-we’ve missed many people!
May Garment Sewing Group
Garment Sewing Group
May 2021
http://www.materialgirlsewing.com
Debbie’s Garments:
Peach Jacket
Liesl + Co Yanaka
Japanese Cotton/Bemberg underlining/lining
1. Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust. Did not do any other shortening – it is a crop jacket and I did not want it any shorter than pictured.
2. The jacket is unlined which I don’t mind because I usually line the sleeves for easy on and off. However, due to the sleeve design I could not line just the sleeves. So I made a muslin from lining, checked fit and made adjustments and then lined the entire jacket by stitching the rs of lining to rs of jacket except at jacket hem.
3. The jacket has faced hems so it was easy to baste lining to jacket at hems and then add the facing. I had to think out construction steps carefully to get my desired finish. A jacket without lined sleeves does not work for me.
4. The lining hides the seams and I had fun binding the facing with contrast stripe.
5. I like the pattern. The directions are clear and isn’t a difficult make at all, especially if you do not care about lining.
Peach Stripe Tee (pictured above under jacket
Art Gallery Jersey Knit ( very off grain) made from my TNT, McCalls 6964
Large Floral Periwinkle Wrap Skirt
Cotton sateen with Bemberg lining
Simplicity 8699, View C, lengthened
1. I liked the contour waistband on this skirt so I thought I would give it a try. It is an unlined skirt so once again I needed to make some changes in construction.
2. I constructed the skirt, cutoff facing of lining leaving seam allowance and stitched the lining to the skirt rst at wrap facing edges.
3. Then I basted the lining to the skirt at waist and added the waistband. I think it worked out well.
4.The pattern calls for two buttons at wrap but I added a third. I also had fun adding bias trim to waistband facing.
Periwinkle Short Sleeve Turtleneck (pictured above)
Cotton/Spandex jersey knit
TNT Jalie T-Shirts Pattern 2805
Light Weight Joggers
Denim
Jalie Vanessa Pants
1. This is my second make from this pattern. I went down a size and added cuffs with elastic.
2.My first pair was made with a light weight linen blend , no cuffs.
3. Between the two pairs and the fit adjustments I have made a third pair would be perfect – I think!
Indigo Leaves Top (pictured above)
Rayon jersey
Jalie 2682 Women’s tops
This is a favorite pattern. I am finding this time of year I want my neck to be warm so this Tee and the short sleeve Turtleneck meet my needs as we move from spring to summer.
Kristin’s Garments
Vanessa Fluid Pant by Jalie—Black linen/activewear knit
1. Added length, swapped waistband and ankle cuffs for Hudson Pant pattern pieces and cut from knit.
2. Eliminated elastic from ankle cuffs as activewear knit gathered linen.
3. Linen is definitely bulkier at the waist with the gathering but great for the pattern design.
Spring Green Jacket
Metra Blazer from Love Notions
Activewear knit with fleece on wrong side
1. This is similar to Debbie’s Morris Blazer/Grainline Studios. Princess seams on front and side seam goes toward back so almost not a “side” seam. Longer than Morris with collar options.
2. Great directions and drafting. Marking lines blur sometimes. Full bust option.
3. Pocket welt is clever and easy to insert.
4. Front lapel is applied with burrito roll so very clean interior.
5. Love the Love Notions instructions-clear, beautifully laid out and very well organized-links to tutorials that I watched for the welt and burrito roll/shoulders.
6. Lapels lie flat, fabric may be not the best but it is a nice alternative to a zip fleece!
The Top That Every Pattern Company Makes
Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch
Linen, rayon and chambray
1. Itch to Stitch has a large size range and cup sizes so I wanted to test the pattern in different sizes and fabrics before jumping in and using for class.
2. The instructions are very old school so I ignored them and applied the bands with my serger and topstitched the seam allowances toward the body of garment.
3. Pattern is well drafted-sleeves are nicely narrow/no bra view under arm. The neck could be a bit smaller, depending on the fabric you use. Band seemed to be a bit smaller than bottom of garment so I would cut band larger next time so I can accommodate as needed.
4. Bust dart for C+ cup sizes needs to point up-not much room under arm to move up.
5. Added a few touches-machine embroidery on chambray and bias binding on linen.
Garnet Hill PJ Pants
Tranquil Pajamas/Love Notions
Art Gallery cotton knit/linen binding
1. I’ve been ripping this pajama style out of the catalog for years!! The Love Notions pattern is exactly what I needed.
2. Pants are one seam and fit spot on-except for the peak of the center back seam but that is easily cut down.
3. The tulip detail takes a little time-the detail piece is topstitched on but could easily be sewn into the seam-but that’s what makes them special.
4. I think I have a new favorite pattern company!! And they are on sale till May 10-40% off!!
New pattern printing company-Sublime Grafx
1. Print patterns in tissue, light white paper or regular heavier white paper.
2. Patterns are printed in color if the file is in color-no extra charge.
3. Flat fee for printing no matter how many pages-$10, $8 and $6 per pattern.
4. There was an email or two between us to get it sorted but they were very nice and I love my tissue patterns!
5. I learned from ordering both from Sublime Grafx and Pattern Review that if you want all sizes you need to tell them. They are saving trees and assume you are making only one size.
June Garment Sewing Group Zoom /Live? We will keep you posted!
Tuesday, June 8, 10:30 Thursday, June 10, 10:30 Saturday, June 12, 10:30
Classes for May and June
Woohoo! In person classes are finally (well, almost) here! All First Sewing classes are in person. Treadle classes will be via Zoom for May and hopefully in store in June as long as the Covid trend continues as it is.
To register for First Sewing classes, click on the menu bar “Classes at First Sewing“.
To register for Treadle classes, go to the store or call 651-698-9690.
Contact us for more questions-more information about the classes can be found in the class listings on our website and Treadle’s.
All Classes May-April
Post Sergery: A Knit Tee for Me!
You made a no-stress tee for a child in Basic Sergery. Now it’s time to tackle a tee that you will actually wear! We’ll supply the Terra Tunic pattern from Itch to Stitch; it has a variety of necklines and silhouettes to keep you serging all summer long. We’ll cover techniques for measuring your body to choose a pattern size, fit issues, neckband application, hems, plus learn hands-on how to order and work with a large format printing of a PDF pattern.
You don’t have to be a Basic & Beyond graduate but you do need to know how to get a 4 thread stitch on your serger 🙂
Thursday, May 20 and 27, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store
Wednesdays, June 2 and 9, 10-12 pm at Treadle-in store
Basic & Beyond Sergery
Do you have a serger you don’t know how to use? Are you a little confused about threading? Take the fear out of serging and get comfortable with what could become your favorite sewing tool. Sessions cover machine parts, threading, rolled hem, flatlock, techniques, serging a basic tee and more.
A child sized, cut out tee will be provided to practice your new skills. Construction techniques will be emphasized.
Thursdays, May 20, 27, June 3, 10-12 pm at First Sewing-in store
Thursdays, June 17, 24, July 1, 10-12 pm at First Sewing-in store
Tuesdays, May 18, 25, June 8, 1-3 pm via Zoom-register with Treadle
Wednesdays, June 16, 23, 30, 10-12 pm at Treadle-in person at Treadle
Post Sergery: Woven Top
Make the Melrose Top by Itch to Stitch (pattern provided) and serge/sew an easy to wear summer top. We’ll cover techniques for bias neck binding, French seams, and band application, plus learn hands-on how to order and work with a large format printing of a PDF pattern.
Tuesdays, May 18 and 25, 10-12 pm via Zoom-register with Treadle
Thursdays, June 24, July 1, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store
Jalie Eleonore Pull-on Pant
A breeze to sew and wear, skinny jeans are a wardrobe staple. Make yours from stretch denim/twill or ponte knit and the Jalie Eleonore pattern. Without a zipper, the techniques are pretty easy!
This is just the best pattern for crotch fit, close to thigh, close to ready to wear, that we can find!! (Humble opinion, of course 🙂 Most people need to make only a few tweaks.
Wednesdays, June 2, 9, 16, 1-3 pm at Treadle-in store
Collar Techniques
In this hands-on class we will go step by step through the techniques for a wrapped collar, one seam collar, and collar-into-stand methods of construction. You may want to have a shirt cut out or have your pattern handy at class so you can adapt your pattern for these great techniques.
Thursday, June 3, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store
Sew Social
Cutting out patterns on the floor? Got questions about pattern directions? Bring your project or sewing goals and spread out in our spacious classroom. We will help you choose pattern, fabric, decipher pattern directions, fit-whatever you need. And meet other sewists that share your passion! Come as often as you can and sew what you want-
Thursdays, June 10, 17, 1-4 pm First Sewing-in store
Sew for Yourself-What You Need to Know
Garment sewing for the first time or getting back into it-we’ll outline the things that will make the adventure a bit less hazardous and more satisfying. Garment sewing isn’t for the faint of heart but seen as a pursuit rather than a pass/fail event and armed with what we’ve learned over the years, you will fall in love with the craft and art of sewing.
Choosing your size, indie patterns, Pdf printing, knits and new fabrics, fit issues and techniques are some of the topics we’ll cover.
Wednesdays, June 23 and 30, 1-3 pm at Treadle-in store
May Makes
Here are some of the garments that showed up this week for Garment Sewing Group-one more meeting Thursday, May 13 at 10:30.
April Garment Sewing Group
From cold March sewing to hopes of April showers-
April 2021
Debbie’s Garments:
Botanical Print Brown/Navy Jacket
Grainline Studio Morris Blazer
Stretch cotton bottom weight with Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining
A Favorite TNT pattern.
1. Made standard petite adjustments.
2. French seams for front, back and sides. Attached interfacing to facing rst on outside edge for a clean finish.
3. It is an unlined jacket but I lined sleeves for easy on and off over other garment.
4. Changed order of construction.
Navy Darted Neckline Tee
Vogue 9205, View A
Cotton/Spandex Jersey.
1.Did standard petite adjustments and shortened length by 3 inches.
Good Basic Tee pattern with just a few minor tweaks.
Navy Print Princess Seam Unlined Jacket
Vogue 1644
Japanese Cotton with Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining.
1. Made a muslin and made the following adjustments: petited between shoulder and bust, narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed sleeve width at hem and did not shorten length of jacket.
2. I feel the jacket runs larger than info stated on pattern envelope and therefore wish I would have made a bit smaller in some areas.
3. Changed order of construction to be able to check fit as I sewed.
4.I cut the under collar on the bias and added a back neck facing to eliminate slip stitching.
5. It is an okay pattern but lacked sewing techniques that takes the garment up a notch or two.
Green/Vanilla Dot Pullover Blouse
New look 6434, View A
Silk
1. I like this pattern mainly because it has a bust dart and is not oversized.
2. I did standard petite adjustments as well as lowering bust dart one inch.
13. I am not a fan of the back opening with button loop so I inserted an invisible zipper the “couture”method with zipper pull one inch from top of neck edge.
14. I used self bias tape and curved the bottom hem slightly.
Sew Your Roll-Purple new born bottom with lace inserted into pocket and sheer rose on pocket and center front.
Kristin’s Garments
Another Diagonal Cut Coat
Sapporo Coat, Papercut Patterns, long version
Wool herringbone
(Continued on next page)
1. Made a size 4 and went to 5 at hips. Took out 2” of length above bust line to bring diagonal closer to face and make armhole smaller. Made corresponding changes to sleeve.
2. Construction went very well. Clear directions-all fit together-except for sleeve lining and sleeve facing but that could have been due to the changes I made in sleeve width, etc.
3. Omitted pocket to keep things clean and close at waist. Added black trim to seam lines for added interest.
Something to Wear With Crazy Coats
Remy Raglan by Sew House Seven
Rayon challis
1. Cut the version with 3/4 sleeve with button at neck but made hem straight instead of curved because of print.
2. Pattern instructions are great-french seams, etc.
3. Neck is large enough to fit head so I sewed button to fabric and eliminated the loop.
4. Fit is just OK. Side seams droop which may be why the hem is curved in pattern. Sleeves are wide which allows rolling up-cool, unless your print isn’t double sided. May try narrow elastic in sleeve hem to gather in.
5. Armhole is high enough but quite wide across bust so fit is just OK-not a keeper IMHO.
Final Stripe Fabric Coat (with a party inside 🙂
Pendleton stripe wool/lining of indeterminate content
Burda 7700-TNT (tried and true)
1. Basted lining fabric to each piece as an underlining, except for back piece to which I added a pleat in the lining.
2. Had fun playing with the stripes which couldn’t be matched up for more than a few at a time on the diagonal.
3. Next time I will sew the collar on with the facing folded around to front to avoid the dreaded muck at center front joining. (How many times have I made this pattern??
4. Added Hong Kong finish at hems.
5. Very happy with the coat. It replaces a well worn earlier version in my studio.
6. Go to Woolenmill.store to find Pendleton wool for garment sewing.
A Little Woven, A Little Knit
Annika Top by StyleArc
Ponte knit, linen check
1. Pattern is drop shoulder and not very fitted but I think the style lines hit me in the right places.
2. Cuff is single layer-definitely would be nice doubled.
3. Started out with a larger size and went down one size.
4. Great for leftover fabrics and all the stretch in the right places!
Sew Your Roll Challenge
Leggings and Lace
Simplicity 8212
Activewear knit and lace
1. Highly acclaimed pattern has been in my stash for quite some time along with the fabric from SR Harris.
2. Pants zipped up quickly and fit fairly well. Topstitched to keep lace seam allowances in place. Added a small band to ankle.
