January Garment Sewing Group Hosts

Saturday’s meeting was much fun with some great winter inspiration!

We’re masking again but small inconvenience if we can still get together. Zoom just isn’t the same as seeing things in person!

We’ll be at Maggy’s Sewing Lounge on Wednesday, Jan. 12 and then Thursday, Jan. 13, at First Sewing in Bloomington for the last meeting of the month and FABRIC SWAP! The swap has been catching on so as long as people bring fabric and take it home, we’ll continue it.

Redo of an OOP Vogue-love the lining and BUTTONS!
Mashup of ready to wear and a few other patterns-very well matched pocket!
Love Notions Whistler
Favorite tee of Pam’s and Debbie-now Butterick 6848 instead of McCalls

Happy Holidays!

Hope you all enjoy the Season! The creativity and inspiration you all bring to our meetings and classes keep us sewing and wanting more. We’ll be back in January-

More inspiration from December’s Garment Sewing Group-

Fabric swap at First Sewing
So many choices-
Beautiful wool gabardine coat and many lessons learned
Merry Christmas sewing
Marcy Tilton tee and Jalie Renee pants

December Garment Sewing Group

Our Friday full of snow put a damper on Saturday’s attendance but Rosemary did her best to be the audience 🙂

Simplicity 8556 in Treadle cotton

Garment Sewing Group

December 2021

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Stripe Tunic

Terra Tunic Funnel Neck by Love Notions

French terry

1. The most difficult aspect to this make is deciding which view to make.

2. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the length two inches.

3. Fun, easy, quick make-perfect for warming up on cold days.

Blouse with Ruffles and Bling

McCalls 6750, View C with adaptations (OOP)

Cotton with metallic stripes.

1.I Did standard petite adjustments and shortened one inch below waist.

2. This pattern is from from 2013 so I did make some design/construction changes.

3. To achieve the V neck I removed the collar portion of the blouse front and facing. I also reduced facing width and I did not use any interfacing in the garment.

4. I narrowed the cuff width and converted to a two piece cuff with the ws of fabric against my skin thinking that would be more comfortable but it wasn’t necessary because the metallic threads are very soft. I also used the ws of facing against my skin – not necessary.

5. I narrowed the sleeve cap 1/4” from front notch to 1/2” at shoulder to 1/4 at back notch.

6. I cut 2 1/2 “ strips for ruffle and gathered them using the serger set at 2 for differential feed and 4 for stitch length.

7. To construct the blouse I used the sewing machine, serger and french seams.

Burgundy Holiday Topper

Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio

Cotton/lycra cotton stretch velveteen

1. I have made this blazer before but this time I wanted to line it.  The pattern is unlined so I needed to work that out – a little bit of a challenge.

2. I thought about making a two-piece sleeve as suggested in pattern reviews to remove drag lines from the sleeve but that didn’t work out for me.

3. The facing is interfaced with stretch going up and down, not around – another hint from pattern reviewers. It may have made a difference in facing drape but I think the lining took care of that.

4. I lengthened the sleeves by 2 inches.

5. I made piping and applied to the lining edge using a zipper foot. All other construction was done with a walking foot.

`Kristin’s Garments:

Winter Vanessas

Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants 3676

Tropical weight wool

Kristin’s Garments, continued

1. No ankle cuffs this time around. Wool is just right for indoor wear, I washed it and it fluffed up a bit.

2. Great basic, comfy pant.

Winter Hudson Joggers

Hudson Pant by True/Bias

Activewear knit

1. Summer joggers have pilled so time for another pair (they are go to pants!)

2. Love the pockets-everything about the pattern.

Winter Basic Dress

Jalie Nicole Shift Dress 3903

Ponte

1. This mock tee dress is the bomb. Throw a sweater over it or a jacket-many looks.

2. I went up a size in the sleeve as it’s a bit snug and lowered bust darts.

3. Mock turtle neck is to pattern.

Designer Jacket

Merchant & Mills Landgate

Moleskin/flannel back satin/outerwear print

1. I had dreams!! Wanted a jacket to layer over fleece, look cool 🙂 Love the fabrics.

2. Underlined the jacket so it would hang well which made for a few interesting changes but went fairly smoothly.

3. Chopped off the hood as I knew I didn’t want it-glad I did.

4. Pretty cool construction of the front neck/yoke pieces.

5. All lot of work, in the end but other than the monster neck-which may relax over time?? I’m pretty happy with it.

Designer Joggers (Snowpants) -see photo above

Sew House Seven Free Range Pants-tapered version

Pre-quilted and self quilted fabrics

1. Just got sucked in by designer snowpants but fun to construct and figure out.

2. Made the lining first to check out fit-wanted them a bit fluffier for outdoor activities.

3. Serged the pieces together with only batting behind fabric, worked out much better than I hoped.

4. Really great pattern/style choice as there weren’t many seams to match up.

5. Used activewear knit for waistband and ankle bands.

January 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, January 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, January 12, 10;30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, January 13, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

December Does Not Disappoint!

This is just a taste of what we saw-go to Instagram for more OR come to Garment Sewing Group today at First Sewing, Bloomington, or Saturday at Treadle, 10:30 am, always!

Fabric Swap at First Sewing meeting today!! Bring some to swap and/or take some home :))

Ribbon from Japan, eyelash vest and warm, cozy dress
Cashmere Coat to be Worn Everywhere
And the fancy lining inside
The favorite ready to wear skirt…
Copied!

Garment Sewing Group Week

All three meetings inside one week this month! Sweet! Come once or come to all-you will surely see something that inspires you. As always, first time is free/pay once and come to as many December meetings as you like.

Fabric origin? Pattern? Come and find out… 🙂

Wednesday, December 8th at Treadle, 10:30

Thursday, December 9th at First Sewing, 10:30. We will continue our fabric swapping at this meeting. Someone (?!) is also moving houses this week and needs to share the stash…

Saturday, December 11th at Treadle, 10:30

More November Inspiration

November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!

December’s meetings are:

Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle

Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)

Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.

Hope to see you!!

Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing Workshop
And then there were two…
Light and Shadows from Cutting Line Designs
A chic thriftstore upcycle
An oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!

November’s Garments

Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-

Garment Sewing Group

November 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress

McCalls 7470, View B

Fine wale corduroy

  1. This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier.  My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
  2. It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
  3. I made the following construction changes:  burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
  4. I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric.  A fun make.

Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt

My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)

adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011, 

Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.

Cotton/linen blend

  1. While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try. 
  2. To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
  3. I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.

Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi

Simplicity 9374, View D

Light weight organic cotton fleece

  1. Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
  2. I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated  pockets and interfacing. 

Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)

McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848

Cotton knit with very little stretch.

This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!

Kristin’s Garments:

Casual Chanel 

Vogue 7975

Navy wool/multicolor wool

  1. I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
  2. Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
  3. Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
  4. Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
  5. Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
  6. Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.

Uniform Pinafore?? 

The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills

Cotton corduroy

  1. I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
  2. Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
  3. Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
  4. Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂

Floral/Spider Blouse

KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy

Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand

  1. After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time. 
  2. No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.

Slippery Leggings

Clara Leggings by Jalie

Activewear knit

  1. Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
  2. Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!

December 2021 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Saturday Meeting at Treadle

Saturday, Nov. 13, 10:30, will be the final installment of November’s Garment Sewing Group. Here is a sampling of what we saw at First Sewing on Thursday-and fabric was swapped-thanks to all who participated!!!

From quilt

To quilted jacket

An original Rebecca Anderson quilt design called Star Song Modern Quilt available from rebeccaruthdesigns.com

Mani’s Blouse from Silhouette Patterns

Proud grandma pillow 🙂

October Garment Sewing Group

First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!

Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…

Debbie’s Garments:

Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt

Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt

1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.

2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.

3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .

This make was a little slow but well worth it.

Teal/Green Cardigan

New Look 6735, View A

Luxury Plush Rib Knit

1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.

2.  This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.

3.  I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.

Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.

Two Stash Buster Tees:

Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical  Tee

McCalls 7247

Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit

1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.

Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top

Jalie Dolman Top 3352

French Terry

1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.

     I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.

2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.

Kristin’s Garments:

Fall Trend: Sweater Vest

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck

Sweater knit with fleece backing

1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!

2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.

3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.

4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!

Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse

Simplicity 9231

Rayon woven

1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.

2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.

3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.

4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.

Sweater Vest

Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven

Bulky cotton sweater knit

1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck

2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.

3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.

3. Constructed per pattern.

4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.

One Thing Led to Another

Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan

Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above

1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.

2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!

Funnel Neck Dress

Burda 6080

Ponte stripe

1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.

2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.

3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.

November Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul