Seam allowances vary from 1 cm-.5 cm marked on the pattern paper. I chose to serge seams and not topstitch so as to keep the bubbliness of the fabric.
Neck is supposed to be a facing but added a bias binding instead.
Sleeve elastic is 1.5” instead of the 2” called for in pattern. They also want you to serge elastic to raw edge, turn and topstitch. I made a casing.
Fun to assemble and wear! Hip opening is wide enough for top to drape more than hug.
All openings are hemmed seam allowances.
Diagonal Hem Maxi
Dress calls for underdress/lining that would mean 3 layers for the front. Instead I only lined the back.
This made assembly more of a puzzle but it worked! No zipper needed.
Armholes had to be bias bound because of assembly order.
Tee Shirt Dress
Shortened bodice 1.5” to keep it at MY natural waistline.
Pattern calls for neckline to be hemmed-trimmed CF 5/8” and added band.
Added bands to sleeve.
Bodice seemed quite close fitting in photo so underarm/sleeve seam is 3/8” rather than 5/8”.
Faux Wrap Dress: McCalls 7953, View A, Digital Kahio Indigo, 100% Rayon
1. Shortened length between shoulder and bust which wasn’t difficult but also shortened dress length a total of 5 inches and it was difficult due to all the angles.
2. The pattern was annoying for the following reasons: difficult to determine which pattern pieces needed for each view, notches did not match up and the sewing techniques were awkward, especially for the faux wrap on right front. Ties sewed into seams would aid in fit.
3. The jumpsuit is appealing and I should have given it a try.
4. I do like the fabric but I think my choice does not have enough body for the wrap to stand out.
Navy Check Shirt/Tunic: Vogue 1541, Today’s Fit Sandra Betzina , View A and B combined.
Double Gauze, 100% Cotton.
1. Went down one size in bust area, shortened length between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment. Shortened placket length.
2. Interfacing , pockets and bottom band were omitted.
3.The fitting and construction techniques are excellent, especially the center front placket. However the collar is a bit of a challenge.
4. One other great feature of her pattern construction is the recommended use of modern techniques such as the serger and Steam a Seam.
Sage Green Bow Blouse: Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse, 1502, View A, Brushed Stretch silk.
1. Shortened length between shoulder and bust as well as 2 inches hem length.
2. Straightened side seams slightly between waist and hip.
3. Added a hidden button placket – check out Susan Khalje in Threads #168, Aug/Sept 2013 for a great resource and a few good You Tube videos.
4. I have been wanting to make this up for awhile to go with a wool blazer in my closet. I used a silk because I could not find a knit in this color. I am still looking for that knit!
April 2020 Fashion Sewing Club Dates
* Please note the changes made due to holiday
Thursday, April 9, 10:30, SR Harris, Burnsville
Tuesday, April 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Saturday, April 18, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
A few of my favorite purchases from the Puyallup Sewing Expo are pictured and linked below. What are your favorites?
Next up is a set of small rulers that are perfect for tracing patterns-Burdastyle patterns, here I come. I love to use rulers as I trace. My lines are so much more accurate. And there’s a plastic envelope 🙂 Again, Amazon carries these rulers.
And last, but not least, the Hurth Ruler. It’s made in Germany and you can order it from Cochenille Design Studio. It’s great for measuring armhole depth, neck width, etc. Just so much easier than carrying two steel right angle rulers-which we used to do!
1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. Did not shorten overall length.
2. Omitted zipper and changed order of construction-sleeves to front and back then side seams.
3. Easy, quick, fun and I like the fit.
Purple Color Block Dress/Tunic
New Look 6439, View D with Scoop Neck
Rayon Ponte blend
1. Front and back are on fold – to achieve blocking, I added seam allowance to front and back at fold. Left front, back and sleeve are opposite colors from the right front, back and sleeve.
2. The neckband was omitted and the neck edge is turned under and cover stitched.
3. I have made this pattern at least 3 times and it is a winner.
Deep Coral Botanical Print Blouse
New Look 6394, View C
Liberty of London 100% Cotton
1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back yoke and sleeve and also one inch between waist and hip on front an back.
2. Pattern had sew on front facings – I changed to fold over to eliminate bulk. The yoke is single layer so I added yoke lining with burrito technique. This got me into a little trouble with facing so I improvised as best as I could to attach front facing to shoulder area.
3. French seams were used as often as possible as well as a bit of serging.
4. This is an easy pattern that lets the fabric stand out – exactly what I wanted.
Light Coral Small Print Shirt
Sewaholic 1501 Granville Fitted Shirt
The fit of my shirt – princess seaming in back, shaped hem are definitely true to the Granville, however, I often combine construction techniques from Kwik Sew 3555, Nancy Zieman, Pam Howard and other resources to create my favorite shirt.
Julio Cesar Fleece Jacket
Polar fleece, activewear knit
1. Omitted back pleat because of thick fabric.
2. Kept a center back seam for shaping at neck.
3. Nice fit but maybe a bit close if using a non stretch woven as pattern calls for.
4. Omitted lining.
1. Pattern has a half neck piece for front of turtleneck-maybe to give better shoulder neck shaping?
2. Turtleneck isn’t meant to be turned down-one layer, hemmed at top.
3. Turtleneck is close fitting and long.
Jalie Clara High Waisted Leggings #3887
1. Center front seam is on fold and pattern has a gusset.
2. Easy to assemble. Near perfect fit. Made the version without waistband.
3. Only took in at knee-otherwise leg fit snugly.
One More Vogue Jacket
Polar fleece, activewear knit
1. Chose the longer version, View B.
2. Eliminated zip in collar.
3. Very large through shoulders and bust and then tapers to hem.
4. Collar opening too wide.
5. Sleeves are wide.
6. Pattern calls for zips in side seams, I just did slits.
Here are the photos from last month’s Club, just in case you didn’t make it 🙂
Scroll to the bottom for the dates for December-starting this coming Tuesday!
Fashion Sewing Club-November 2019
Navy/Gray Stripe Tunic
Butterick 6247, View C
Poly Blend Knit Jersey
1. Shortened pattern between shoulder and bust, waist and hip.
2. Raised front neckline 2 inches and removed 2 inches of width from cowl neck piece.
3. I did not construct long sleeve and short sleeve as one as pattern directs.
4. The pattern is easy, quick and fun to make. One could easily lengthen for dress.
Navy Cardi Sweater
Cotton/Jersey with spandex
1. Pattern calls for facing along neck edge and center front. If I use this pattern again I would use a neckband rather than facing. The facing construction was difficult due to the nature of the fabric.
2. Used coverstitch to finish facing and hems.
Navy/Gray Knit Coatigan
Alina Sewing Design Co., Fulton Sweater Blazer
100% wool Double knit; Cotton jersey for facings.
*Pattern description is a sweater blazer but I feel my fabric choice makes it more coatish than sweater.
1. Shortened for petite between shoulder and bust, waist and hips and at hem for knee length.
2. Eliminated pockets, did not interface.
3. The pattern goes together fairly well but it is important to follow collar instructions carefully. The directions for facings at hem are a bit confusing. Also not really necessary for center back seaming since there is no shaping.
Trio of Tees:
Navy Dot- Viscose Knit, McCalls 6964
Japanese Navy Flora, Viscose Lycra, Vogue 9057, View A. Raised back neckline 1 inch.
Art Fair Overlay Tee, Poly and Cotton jersey, McCalls 7247, view C adapted.
Fulton Sweater-Alina Sewing/Design Co.
1. Instructions clearly urge you to a stable knit so it looks coatish as Debbie said.
2. Left some edges raw to deal with bulkiness of seams.
3. Good pattern and instructions.
Wool sweater knit
1. Wanted a close fitting sweater to go over dress. It is!
2. Nice shaping at neckline.
Patchwork Shirt Dress
Sewaholic Granville Blouse
Patchwork cotton/Liberty of London accents
1. Extended hem to make into dress. Chose this pattern for a more shaped silhouette.
2. Loved the Liberty collar and placket. Bulk of patchwork would have been difficult to work around.
1. Great pattern!! Fantastic instructions for a basic garment.
2. On the looser side of fit (sleeves especially) but still a good fit garment for comparison.
3. Adjust as needed for your purposes.
December 2019 Fashion Sewing Club
Tuesday, December 10, Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30
Thursday, December 12, SR Harris, Burnsville, 10:30
Thursday, December 12, First Sewing, Bloomington, 6:30