It’s too late to catch our Zoom Basic & Beyond Sergery class (it started today!!) but the Wardrobe Planning class is this Saturday, 8/22, from 9:30-12:30 on Zoom.
All you need is your jumble of ideas about what you need for fall and managing most of your life from home (!). A few pictures of things you’d like to make or fabrics that are asking to be sewn would be helpful too.
We’ll talk about planning and execution 🙂 and help you define a wardrobe capsule that works for your life.
I’m super excited because I finally created a My Body Model croquis so I can do some drawing for my fall wardrobe plan. Not sure it will be social media worthy but I’m hoping it will inspire me and maybe you!
Call Treadle at 651-698-9690 to register and Debbie and I will send you the link and see you on Zoom!
1. This garment is similar to the shirtdress I made in June (McCalls 7351) but less shaping due to no waist definition. Also it was a better choice for the stretch cotton fabric.
2. I shortened length between shoulder and bust but not dress length.
3. I omitted the chest pocket – not a fan.
4. I made several construction changes: -added a contrast yoke facing using the hot dog roll method – a little tricky due to dress length – just go slow when turning to right side.
-Used Grainline neck stand and collar method rather than New Look’s method.
– Omitted cuff and tab on sleeve and made short sleeve length with roll up cuff.
– Used straight hem rather then curved as pattern shows.
5. Although I like the pockets, I am not a fan of floating pockets. I may topstitch them in place.
Two More Backyard Tee-Shirt Dresses and New Look 6449:
Border print, Viscose Rayon, View C.
1. Cut cross grain to take advantage of border.
2. Scooped out front neckline- maybe too much!
3. Omitted cuff on sleeve.
Green Sleeveless, Cotton Jersey with 5% Spandex.
1. Cut cross grain for vertical stripe look.
2. Used chest pocket for hip pockets, the others were too large.
3. Not a fan of pattern armhole bands – would do differently next time……
There will not be a next time! This pattern has run its course for the season and I have used up my summer fabric so I am ready to move on.
Rusty Floral Skirt:
Simplicity 1560, View B, Rayon Challis
I made this skirt to pattern. It is quick and easy . I like the flirty panels and no waistband with facing finish.
Summer Woven Cowl Blouse
Vogue 1701, View B, Cotton Lawn
1. Cowl has an invisible zip which went in very well.
2. Gathering at neck.
3. Cuff is supposed to button with a notched gap hem on sleeve but I shortened the cuff instead and applied in the round. Ended up pleating cuff and sewing on buttons to make cuff smaller.
4. Blouse is wide at hem so no alterations for hips 🙂
5. After being so proud of my zip application, it is awkward to wear and the cowl will fit over my head without needing a zip!
6. I like the blouse-a little style and cool to wear-just won’t put in a zipper again!
McCall’s 8042, View A, Rayon Challis
1. The photo on the cover appealed to me so I gave it a try 🙂
2. Front is cut single layer with lots of stitching lines and cutting lines to transfer. I folded on center and got pretty close.
3. Sleeve ruffle ends up as part of armhole and doesn’t meet at underarm so a small piece of bias tape is added but it finished nicely, just puttsy.
4. I needed more room at hips so whacked it off, added more and ruffled it. A very gathered month 🙂
5. Both the sleeves and front/back are squares at the neck-no shaping in toward neck so when you pull in gathers at neck, there’s a lot of fabric. The height of the underarm is also determined by how much you pull up the neck. There were no suggestions as to how much it should be pulled in. I have used a stretchy cord so I can tie it where I want it and still get it over my head and not adjust every time.
6. The blouse is a keeper-the pattern is not 🙂
Linen Work Dress
Merchant & Mills Factory Dress, Crinkly Linen
1. Skirt front has two small pleats and is wider than skirt back so added a bit to the back in the form of two small pleats.
2. Nice fit, loose fitting but with a bust dart. Sleeves fold up as per pattern. No fit adjustments.
3. Added contrast pocket and facing for fun.
4. Pattern drafting was great. Pattern directions more for a sewist with experience but definitely a keeper!
September Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:
*Second Tuesday date is changed due to labor Day weekend
Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, September 12, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, September 15, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville
Although we’d much rather like to see and be seen in person, the Zoom meetings have been a great substitute for getting together!
Denim Blue Rayon Challis Shirtdress: Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress, View B.
1. Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust but did not shorten length.
2. I prefer to do the collar before side seams for easier fit adjustments so I changed order of construction and did the hot dog method for a contrast yoke facing.
3. I did not add the chest pocket and wished I would have added side seams pockets.
4. The button band instructions are confusing so be sure to read info on pattern piece thoroughly.
5. I feel the pattern runs big – I would go down a size if I make it again.
6. This is a fun pattern and I am finding loose dresses are so much more cool and fun to wear with the weather we are experiencing lately!
Blue Flora Wrap Top: New Look 6560, View C, 85% Cotton and 15% Linen Blend.
1. As always did standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.
2. The top does look short so I considered adding length but after reading many reviews (2019 pattern of the year on Pattern Review) I did not adjust length – good decision!
3. For security I added a snap at the center front and made serger loops for the tie belt.
4. This is a quick and easy make and perfect for keeping cool this summer.
Wide Cropped Denim Pants: New Look 6643 plus Burda 7058, Tencel.
1. To get the fit I used Burda from waist to crotch and for the look I used New Look from crotch to hem. I shortened the length by 4 inches in segments along the leg of the pants.
2. The Burda pants are a TNT pattern for me so it was fun to try out the wide leg from New Look and have success – these pants are cool and fun!
Pineapple Tee-shirt Dress: New Look 6449, View A, Cotton Lycra
1. My first step was to make my petite adjustments from shoulder to bust. I did not change the length.
2. This tee -shirt dress is less fitted than McCalls 7432 – my make from June club- and that works for me. There are times when I want a little more shaping but lately I am enjoying loose fitting dresses. This pattern does the trick! It is a quick and easy make.
Knit Jumpsuit: Butterick 6330, View E, Liverpool knit
1. Easy summer sewing-neck and armhole hems are just turned under. Seam down center back with slit opening to allow getting the jumpsuit on 🙂
2. I like this style pocket at it lays better than an in-seam pocket (IMHO).
3. The legs are wide but not overly. I cut off 7” because the “shorter” length felt more summery. Hoping that the fabric relaxes a bit so the leg doesn’t stand open at hem so much.
4. Waist casing-1” seam allowance at waist, trim bodice seam and then press pant seam toward bodice and topstitch to form casing. This is a nice look, it worked very well. Would be easy to tack on a bow as shown in my inspiration pic.
5. Fit adjustments-I sized down one size in the pant and ended up going down one more because I didn’t want all the ease in pattern. Also, added an inch to bodice length and took off an inch in pant waist length (height/crotch depth 🙂
Woven Jumpsuit: New Look 6413, View A, Crinkle Linen
1. Fit-very good for overall length and waist location. Neck opening a bit large-I’d take a 1/4” seam next time for starters. Legs aren’t as tight as it shows on pattern cover-I liked how they turned out for me. Sleeves are to pattern for View A. Next time I will add a cuff to give a more stable hem that doesn’t stretch out-maybe washing will help?
2. Zipper opening at neck seemed to take some time but looked nice and was fairly easy in the end. A good sewing friend advised putting the zip in the neck and that probably was a better option.
3. Waist casing-pattern called for 5/8” seam allowance and then stitching seam allowance at edge and inserting elastic. We usually cringe at this when our young students encounter this in a pattern but the linen held together and I serged the raw edges together (not a bad idea to serge edges before sewing if they are raveling) and inserted elastic. I tried the topstitch method as above but in the end did not because it seemed to “blouse” better without it.
4. I didn’t include in-seam pockets because of added bulk and it also made the waist casing smoother.
5. Legs are fun rolled up at ankles too!
Wavy Stripe Shorts: Jalie Pull-on Pants and Shorts, No stretch woven
1. Great go-to pull on pant with just the right amount of ease-for me 🙂 Great waist shaping.
2. Made to pattern with required 3/8” seam allowances.
3. Waist casing is a facing that is sewn on and turned to inside. I especially like the shaping of the waist-not straight across but higher in back and lower (but not too low) in back.
Woven Stripe Shorts: Burda 6952, View B
1. This is a plus size pattern that I wanted to try to see if fit is any different than regular Burda patterns. Burda is still the bomb for pants fit, in my book.
2. The two views are the same except View A has darts, a zip and waistband. I was going to try adding the contour fitted waist band to the gathered version but there was a gap between idea/cutting out and execution-so it’s a narrower folded waistband as called for in View B.
August Fashion Sewing Club via Zoom or at:
Saturday, August 8,10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, August 11, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, August 13, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville
When Debbie sent her photos in her back yard I had to take my photos in my surroundings-down on the farm 🙂 Hope you’ve been finding your happy place wherever you are-we hope to have some live meetings next month. Will keep you posted!
Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
Floral Tee Shirt Dress: McCalls 7432, View E
Art Gallery cotton spandex
1. Did my standard petite adjustments and breezed through this quickly. Fun make that I will wear often.
Poppy Backyard Tunic/Dress: Closet Case Cielo, View C
1. Did my standard petite adjustments.
2. Changed order of construction to adjust fit if necessary.
3. Stabilized pocket seams.
4. Serged bias neck edge finish.
5. This is a fun make, I like the back shoulder yoke detail and of course the pockets.
Floral/Fleece Contrast Raglan Tee: Jalie Marie Claude
Floral from Tee dress and fleece from my stash.
1. I loved the combination of the two fabrics but didn’t have quite enough for the back.
I didn’t want to give-up so after looking at some RTW I was able to add some exit interest.
2. Using my scraps I cut apart the back pattern piece at my waist and cut two lower pieces to create faux button placket. I did add and stabilize seam allowances .
3. Placket edges are clean finished before stitching to upper back.
4. Tee is completed as pattern directs with the addition of buttons to the exit interest.
Purple Cut Apart Tee: McCalls 6964
Avalon Jersey, 94% cotton, 6% elastic.
1. Again, checking out RTW, I saw this tee and knew I had some fabric in my stash that would step up a basic tee and fabric.
2. Using my favorite tee shirt pattern as my base I cut apart the front pattern to form the design lines and added seam allowances.
3. Before constructing the tee, I added fusible interfacing to seam lines and clean finished placket edges. Three buttons were added for a little more interest.
Camber Set #2-Top: Merchant & Mills Camber Set
1. Executed changes from last month-added to bottom edge of back yoke for a rounded back adjustment. I tried to cut one yoke on the bias so the crooked lines wouldn’t but my cutting was way off and then I sewed the bias cut yoke to the wrong side and it didn’t work anyway!!
2. Still love the fit of it-sleeves and all.
3. I made the neck band correctly this time and like the looks of it.
1. Executed changes from last month-sleeves and armholes and had to grab this out of the closet as I ran out of summer things to wear. Love the cool draping of the fabric-cooler than a knit tee! And quick to sew-no bust dart!
1. Very good fit and nice coverage at neck and armholes.
2. Serged the bias edges on, turned to wrong side and topstitched instead of their method.
3. Nice deep hem.
One More Woven Tee: Coram Top & Dress, Allie Olson Patterns
1. Saw this at Puyallup and had to give it a try. Raglan sleeves with a dolphin hem-love that name.
2. Pattern sewed up well-like the hem.
3. Neck band is a bias strip and sewn on like a knit band-maybe a bit wide but laid down pretty nicely.
Lace Jacket: Now Shirt from Sewing Workshop
Novelty lace-colored on right side, white on wrong side
1. I may have overcooked this one! Very much attracted to the colors of the lace but the white backing is high contrast. And the seam allowances stretched out so most were bound with bias binding.
2. Cut 2” folded strips for front placket (pattern has simple, folded placket), hems and sleeves. I intended to use these folded but a white seam allowance still showed through so I encased some of them.
3. Swapped the “Now” collar out and used the “Zen” as it was shorter and stood up. Not sure how it will “wear”.
4. Turned in to a long sew. I have a fair amount left so will most likely underline next time but really wanted the airiness of the lace to be a feature of the jacket.
Thursday and Saturday meetings are coming up tomorrow at 10:30. Go to “Fashion Sewing Club” on the website menu and register to receive the link to the Zoom meeting and the Club sheets.
Some info to pass on:
Craftsy/Bluprint is going out of business. Try this (allavsoft.com) for saving all of your classes before they go away.
SBCC (Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick) patterns are made for petites and more. Paulette made the Paloma Blouse right out of the package and it fit! They are sold on patternreview.com and you can choose the print option as it is a pdf only pattern. I found several I’d like to try because even though I am regular height, I often “petite” patterns to bring up the underarms and waist. I’ll have to lengthen the skirt 🙂 There are a few average height patterns also.
Treadle will honor its 10% off if you attend Fashion Sewing Club, good through June 20. Here’s a pic of their latest arrivals. There are also new rayon batiks.
SR Harris is offering to let us in at 9 am for Fashion Sewing Club next month so we can meet and shop and not keep other customers away-their current limit is 15 people. We’ll let you know if it can be done!
We’re meeting for Sew Social at First Sewing tomorrow! First time in a long time-looking forward to getting together. There will be a limit of 8 people. You can email/text/call if interested in coming.
Linda Lee of Sewing Workshop is hosting some great videos each Tuesday at 11 am but you can watch them anytime-check her website/Facebook/YouTube.
And now for the Sew and Tell-you can send your photos before the meeting and we can all see them on Zoom.
Covid isn’t going to let us gather this month either!! But we’ve been having fun via Zoom so we’ll meet on Zoom again this month-
Tuesday, June 9,
Thursday, June 11
Saturday, June 13
All meetings begin at 10:30 am
This month we are asking that you register and pay ($10) through our website. Then a Zoom meeting link will be sent to you along with the Club sheets. Just a debit or credit card is all you need. Here is the link or you can click on “Fashion Sewing Club” in the menu at the top of the website.
You may attend as many sessions of the month’s meetings as you want and still just pay for one meeting. Your first meeting is free.
Another great month of meeting via Zoom! We had almost 60 people attending over the three sessions. We saw many indie patterns and always get the question about copy shop printing (the big box stores can be very expensive and knowledge varies from employee to employee) so here are are 3 best ways of getting those Pdf patterns printed on something other than 8.5”x11” sheets that you have to tape together:
1. Look for the pattern on patternreview.com. If they sell it, they will give you the option to choose having it printed for about $5 when you add it to your cart.
2. Go to pdfplotting.com and send your files to them. It takes a few minutes to figure out how to navigate in your computer and files but the price and convenience are worth it. And you can call and talk to Keith and he will help you out. Shipping time is usually a few days.
3. Thomas Printworks, 801 2nd Ave. N., Mpls.-you’ll have to go pick it up but turnaround is quick and price is great. The online form can be hard to figure out so just call 612-374-1120 and get the email address to send your files to.
And now for Debbie and Kristin’s garments for May-we hope we can actually see some of you in June as stores are opening up but we will definitely be meeting by Zoom. We’ll keep you posted.
Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
Navy Knit Blazer:
La Paz Jacket by Itch to Stitch
65% Rayon, 32%nylon and 5% spandex Ponte
1. I made a muslin first to determine fit changes and there were several- shortened between shoulder and bust, shortened jacket and sleeve length, adjusted for narrow shoulder and went down a size – I feel the pattern runs big.
2. This is PDF pattern which I try to avoid because I don’t like to trace and to determine lines and marks to follow is difficult.
3. The directions are excellent and a website is given to follow for welt pockets which is also very well done. The collar instructions are more difficult than necessary though.
4. The jacket has a back lining shield which is very nice. However, I wish I would have drafted a lining pattern. It would have been easier and given a cleaner inside look.
Floral Chambray Shirt Dress:
McCalls 7351, View B with straight hem
1. Did my standard fitting adjustments and lowered front bust dart, added 1/2” to waist length and 1 inch to hem.
2. I changed order of construction, did a burrito roll for yoke and stitched rs of button band to ws of dress front for a clean finish and no slip stitching.
3. I added a fabric tie belt to copy what I am seeing in RTW.
Coral Floral Tunic:
New Look 6439, View D with View C neckline
1. This is a TNT pattern. This is my summer version. Winter is the only season I haven’t covered and I don’t want to think about that for a lonnnnng time!
Cut Apart T-Shirt:
Green and navy solid rayon jersey, print cotton lycra from Art Gallery.
Saw this tee in a catalog and thought it would be cute and use up some of my scraps.
Palisade Pants by Papercut Patterns
1. Pattern has a nice flat front waist and fun pockets-one pattern piece is heart shaped.
2. Lots of layers in pocket hide hip issues.
3. For my figure, the front waist was high but not a deal breaker.
4. Good instructions, fun to see how a stripe worked out with the pocket pieces.
Hudson Pant by True/Bias
Rayon ponte, very soft and stretchy
1. Omitted the pockets for the sake of bulk.
2. Pattern advises making a size up if you don’t want a tight fit so I did that.
3. Made waist band smaller by 2” to reduce bulk.
SUMMER (?!) Dress
Camber Set by Merchant & Mills
Patchwork plaid cotton
1. Pattern features a bust dart that borders on a French dart.
2. Needed to do a bit of work on sleeves as they were quite slim but the armhole was on the larger size.
3. Also made the Scout Tee by Grainline and that had a flat sleeve with a close fitting armhole-so I went with Camber to get the yoke (made a rounded back adjustment easier) and used armhole from Scout.