July Garments from Debbie and Kristin

July was such an amazing month for inspiration from all of you that our garments feel like an after thought but here goes :))

Kristin’s Garments

Summer Blouse, Burda 6914, Gray silk print

1. Made to pattern-love the dart placement. Great summer top for drapey fabric.

2. Forgot to trim 3/8” from neck edge-Burda learning opportunity!

Summer Shirt, Melody Dolman from Love Notions, Rayon stripe

1. Made to pattern-should have added at hips.

2. Sleeve cuff is sewn on and then flipped up-I didn’t like that look so let it hang.

3. Serged the collar on all the way across neck instead of pattern directions for back neck.

4. Kalle Shirt from Closet Core is similar-this shirt is everywhere in RTW.

Shirt Dress, Helmi Trench Shirt and Dress from Named Patterns, Stretch shirting

1. Measured favorite JJill shirt and tried to copy.

2. Ended up with a bit more ease at hips than may be necessary.

3. Added vertical tucks to back to bring in a bit.

4. Moved waist seam up two inches to copy JJill.

5. Made collar a right angle instead of curve at neck edge-this is the narrow version-pattern includes a collar that will fold over.

6. Omitted the hidden placket. Quick and easy “fold twice and topstitch” placket-as long as your fabric is acceptable on wrong side.

7. This will be a favorite pattern!! Sleeves and shoulders fit well!

8. Factory Dress from Merchant & Mills is similar.

Debbie’s Garments

Black Hem Slit Pants, Love Notions Sabrina Slims Pant, Rayon blend ponte

1. I made View A-flat front and eliminated front and back pockets. Since this was my first make from this pattern I wanted to just do the basic to determine alterations and Ethan consider options such as the seaming down the front and back, zips at leg bottom and welt pockets in the future.

2. This was quick and easy. Great directions and construction techniques.

3. I will need to remove some length between my bottom and knee and knee and hem. I will also decrease the width of the waistband. I find 2” is too wide and I prefer 1.5” elastic so waistband needs adjusting. Upper side seams are a little too curvy for me so I straightened them about 6”from the hip toward the hem.

(See photo above)

Purple Print Top With Contrast Trim, New Look 6808, View A, adapted, Rayon twill for shirt body, linen blend for contrast

1. A TNT pattern that meets my needs every once in awhile. I like the fish eye darts on front and back for shaping.

2. Instead of facing for the neck edge I did a serged bias wrapped edge. I replaced the slit hemmed sleeves and added cuffs to break up the busy print.

Camel Herringbone Woven Joggers, Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants, Linen blend (cotton or rayon?)

1. This is my fourth make from this pattern and I can see more coming. My first pair was a navy rayon blend made to pattern without cuffs. For May I used a light weight denim with cuffs but did not add draw string. I used a light weight French terry for the third pair. Even though I went down a size a more stable knit like a ponte would be better. I use that make for pj’s-I will stick with wovens from here on out.

2. I made the following fit adjustments-increased back darts by 1/4”, increased CB seam 5/8” from waist to crotch curve and narrowed width of waistband 1/2”.

3. Again, no draw string-flat center front which eliminates bulk.

(See photo above)

Border Print Raglan Tee-Butterick 6207, View A w/o band-Rayon jersey

1. This pattern is great for a quick and easy tee that has some shape and flows.

2. The fabric makes the tee but I didn’t want it to be too much so I worked around the print for solid sleeves and band. Another TNT pattern.

Makes as Seen at “Lakes”

July’s Wednesday Garment Sewing Group was held at Lakes Makerie-“on the go” as we dubbed it. It was a great turnout and everyone seemed to have multiple makes so here we go-(yes, this is August and I am playing catch up-internet issues!)

Fearless leader, Sarah, in the Bijou Beret from Untitled Thoughts
Lottie Tunic from Christine Haynes
Vogue 1297-a silhouette that popped up again later
Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch
Rye Vest from By Hand
Butterick 5891
Hoodie from Silhouette Patterns
Alabama Chanin inspired work
Nani Iro Jumpsuit X 2
Vogue 8798
Now Shirt by Sewing Workshop
Kielo Jumpsuit by Named Patterns
Muse’s Jenna Cardigan

Makes as Seen at “Lakes”

July’s Wednesday Garment Sewing Group was held at Lakes Makerie-“on the go” as we dubbed it. It was a great turnout and everyone seemed to have multiple makes so here we go-(yes, this is August and I am playing catch up-internet issues!)

Fearless leader, Sarah, in the Bijou Beret from Untitled Thoughts
Lottie Tunic from Christine Haynes
Vogue 1297-a silhouette that popped up again later
Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch
Rye Vest from By Hand
Butterick 5891
Hoodie from Silhouette Patterns
Alabama Chanin inspired work
Nani Iro Jumpsuit X 2
Vogue 8798
Now Shirt by Sewing Workshop
Kielo Jumpsuit by Named Patterns
Muse’s Jenna Cardigan

Until Wednesday…

Our last meeting of July’s Garment Sewing Group is this Wednesday, July 14th, 10:30 am at Lakes Makerie. This is our “On the Go” version-just for fun.

Until then, here is some inspiration from our Thursday and Saturday meetings-

A new generation of superheroes-thanks to Grandma!
Rina just finished Fashion Design classes at Minneapolis College-she’ll be at Mpls. Fashion Week in September!
Here’s the garment on her model-
Fajita Skirt from LJ Designs
Roxy Blouse from StyleArc
Vintage patterns

Garment Sewing Group starts tomorrow!

Our mixed up month of meetings starts at First Sewing in Bloomington tomorrow, Thursday, July 8th at 10:30.

No need to register, just come. Maybe we’ll have lunch and then there’s Sew Social from 1-4 pm. Bring your project 🙂

On Saturday, July 10th, we’ll be at Treadle Yard Goods for the Saturday version. We had a class at the store today and Roberta was just opening a large bundle of fabric…

We’ll finish our monthly meetings at Lakes Makerie with “Garment Sewing Group on the Go” on Wednesday, July 14th, also at 10:30 am. No registration necessary but we plan to go to lunch at Heather’s after and will need numbers for reservations.

New Classes Start This Week

Fun and generosity!

Meeting new people is one thing you might not consider when you sign up for a class but Mary brought two aprons she make for Jennifer, who is a kindergarten teacher-just because we talked about it in class!

Make sure you meet some new people and learn some new sewing skills at our classes this summer! More information about each is found in menu bars at top of webpage-or call/text/email 🙂

July-August 2021 Classes

Classes at Treadle Yard Goods-register at treadleyardgoods.com

Pick a Pattern and Make It~we’ll help with any step in the process-choosing patterns to zippers and more. Wednesdays, July 7 and 21, 10-1 pm (also at Lakes Makerie Aug. 18 and 25)

PDF Patterns-Exploring, Ordering and Printing~choosing, ordering and printing. Wednesday, July 7, 2-3 pm (also at First Sewing Aug. 5)

Garment Sewing Group, Saturday, July 10th, 10:30 am We are changing to Wednesdays instead of Tuesdays-July 14 is kids’ camp at Treadle so we will try a Garment Sewing Group on the Go and meet at Lakes Makerie for our Wednesday meeting-this is NOT a permanent location change, just an exploration of resources 🙂 No need to register for this class-just come! First time free! (Also at First Sewing July 8)

Cover Stitch or Catch Up Sergery~tricks and techniques for coverstitch or serger (catch up only, please, not beginner). Wednesday, July 21, 2-3 pm (also at First Sewing Aug. 5)

Basic & Beyond Sergery In a Day!~Overcome the mystery 🙂 Wednesdays, August 4, 18, 25, 10-4 pm (also at Lakes Makerie Aug. 5, 19, 26)

Classes at Lakes Makerie-register at materialgirlsewing.com

Garment Sewing Group On the Go!~monthly meeting featuring garments, pattern modification and review, and the latest news in the sewing world. Wednesday, July 14, 10:30 am-no need to register-just come! First time free-(also at First Sewing July 8 or Treadle July 10)

Basic & Beyond Sergery~Overcome the mystery 🙂 Thursdays, August 5, 19, 26, 10-12 pm (Also offered at Treadle, Aug. 4)

Pick a Pattern and Make It~we’ll help with any step in the process-choosing patterns to zippers and more. Tuesdays, August 18 and 25, 9:30-12:30 pm (Also offered at Treadle July 7 and 21)

Classes at First Sewing-register at materialgirlsewing.com

Garment Sewing Group~monthly meeting featuring garments, pattern modification and review, and the latest news in the sewing world. Thursday, July 8, 10:30 am-no need to register-just come! First time free-(also at Treadle July 10 and Lakes Makerie July 14)

Sew Social~guided sewing and group fun! Thursdays, 1-4 pm, July 8, 15, 22, August 12, 19, 26

Coming Back to Sewing or Garment Sewing Need to Know~Garment sewing for the first time or getting back into it-we can help! Lecture only, no sewing. Thursdays, July 15 and 22, 10-12 pm

Cover Stitch or Catch Up Sergery~tricks and techniques for coverstitch or serger (catch up only, please, not beginner) Thursday, August 5, 1-2 pm (also at Treadle July 21)

PDF Patterns-All You Need to Know~choosing, ordering and printing-hands-on. Thursday, August 5, 2:30-3:30 pm (also at Treadle July 7)

July Garment Sewing Group Meetings

Not what it started out as-but definitely wearable!

OK, buckle up and hold on-we’re taking a wild ride this month! Debbie and I are having a hard time keeping it straight so we’ll tell you often so you can stay on track-

First, there will be no Zoom meeting this month. We’ll see if we can make something work that is a recorded or live version-fingers crossed.

Second, we’re meeting at First Sewing on Thursday-they have been so good to us and have plenty of space and it’s easy access from most of metro area.

Third, we are changing our Tuesday meeting day to Wednesday to keep our teaching days to two per week and back to back. Hope this day change works for all-

Fourth, Treadle was having kids’ camp on our 2nd Wednesday so we thought we’d try “Garment Sewing Group on the Go”. Lakes Makerie opens at noon so the store has room for us. Sarah has been in business for several years now, carries indie patterns, great fabric and is easy to get to. Join us for lunch afterward at Heather’s nearby.

In a nutshell-

Thursday, July 8th, 10:30 am IN PERSON

At First Sewing, 7985 Southtown Center, Bloomington

Saturday, July 10, 10:30 am IN PERSON

At Treadle Yard Goods, 1338 Grand Ave., St. Paul

Wednesday (yes-a permanent day change), July 14, 10:30 am IN PERSON

At Lakes Makerie, 5257 Chicago Av. South, Minneapolis (NE corner of 53rd and Chicago—easy on street parking, promise 🙂

June’s Garment Sewing Group

We’re back in person. It seems sudden and wonderful and hard to remember what we’re supposed to do!

Thanks to everyone who attended-both in person and on Zoom. It was so good to see real faces again! See you in July-

Kristin’s Garments

Crinkled Linen Kimono

Burda 6244

Washed linen

1. Wanted a lightweight jacket in this crinkly, lovely colored linen. Listened to Linda Lee on YouTube-https://youtu.be/lEzd3WhK91— and decided to use a kimono pattern to minimize the challenges of working with the crinkle fabric.

2. Stabilized back neck, shoulders, sleeve cap and interfaced sleeve band and neckband.

3. I was able to use differential feed to finish edges of hem and then turn up and coverstitch with differential feed also.

4. I regret coverstitching the neckband as it waved a bit but guessing a second washing (I washed after construction to see what happens) and I won’t even be able to tell.

5. Garment is 4” shorter than pattern-ran out of fabric but also like it this length.

6. Shortened sleeves and added band for a more finished look than pattern.

Plum Tee

Classic Tee by Love Notions

Cotton Interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit

1. Made to pattern except for increasing hips one size. Love the flexibility of this pattern and the range of sizes. Great basic!!

Straight Leg Cropped Pant

Free Range Slacks by Sew House Seven

Linen

1. Made to pattern according to measurements. It’s a high waisted pant with roomy legs but a comfortable/close fit at hips.

2. Side strip gives a break up line for both front and side view.

3. Facing at waistband is nice for reducing bulk-I used rayon to further reduce bulk.

4. Omitted side pockets but put in one back pocket for cell phone. Fun inseam application.

Plum Tunic

Terra Tunic by Love Notions

Cotton interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit

1. Made the scoop version-will make it more crew next time-just personal preference.

2. Fabric made for a looser fit.

3. Mitered the corners on side seams as opposed to square fold in directions. Deep 2+’’ hem.

4. Length is to pattern. Made Large through shoulders and went to XL at hip.

Sailor Tunic

Terra Tunic by Love Notions-version 2

Cotton French terry-more cotton in stripe than solid

1. Made the boatneck version-facing, interfaced and all. Love it. Fits very nicely.

2. Wish I could say that for the rest of the top!! The plum tunic above was saggy baggy so I cut may pattern down to a medium at the shoulders and large at hips. Evidently I didn’t check amount of stretch. Still love it but will gift to daughter 🙂

Dandelion Green Tee

Melrose Top by Itch to Stitch

Rayon challis

1. One more of these in a great print. Fabric has been in stash. Got the lower band wide enough this time. Fixed the last one by opening up side seam bands and making vent.

2. This class is still available June 24 and July 1, 1-3 pm at First Sewing, Bloomington.

Debbie’s Garments:

Poppy Day Brightener Dress

Very Easy Vogue 8764

Yarn Dyed Cotton Shirting

1. Did my standard petite adjustments and narrow shoulder and rounded back changes.

2. I changed the V neck opening to a scoop and did not line the dress as pattern directs.

3. I did a serged bias edge for neckline and placed the zipper one inch lower than neck edge.

4. To adjust for fit and construction techniques I prefer I changed the order of construction.

5. The pattern is one I have been wanting to try for awhile and I am generally  pleased with it, except for the large scoop neckline.

Orange Gingham Ruffle Sleeve Blouse

Amy Butler Liverpool Blouse Pattern

1. This is a favorite blouse pattern. I haven’t used it for awhile and found I needed to do some new fitting adjustments for lots of reasons! They include petiting between bust and shoulder, narrow shoulder adjustment

2. I also hacked the pattern a bit to copy a RTW look by shortening the hem and changing to a shirt tail style, and eliminating the cuff and adding a band and ruffle to the sleeve.

3. I did add interfacing to collar and placket because the gingham is light weight.

4. The designer of the pattern is a quilter so I did change some construction  techniques that I prefer.

Coral Blazer

Metra Blazer with shawl collar by Love Notions

100% poly Ponte

1. I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust and shortened front, back and sleeve length by 2 inches.

2. I love the shawl  collar and the faux welt pocket. Great designer details and very good sewing instructions.

3. The fabric sewed up beautifully using my seger but not the sewing machine.  Therefore I needed to adjust some sewing techniques and use  steam a seam on the hems.

4. I usually line the sleeves of an unlined jacket but due to the slippery feel of the fabric and the fact that it is a knit, lining the sleeves was not necessary.

5. It’s a wearable muslin that I will make again.

July Garment Sewing Group-Stay tuned for changes may happen 🙂

Thursday, July 8, 10:30, Zoom

Saturday, July 10, 10:30

Tuesday, July 13, 10:30 we may change to Wednesdays

We’ll Be In Person at Treadle!!!

Wow! It feels so good to be out with people! We finished our first day of classes back in person at Treadle today. New classroom is nice.

And now it’s time to get back in person for Garment Sewing Group!

We’ll be at Treadle for Garment Sewing Group:

Tuesday, June 8 and Saturday, June 12 at 10:30 am-our regular time

Our regular Zoom meeting will be on Thursday, June 10, for anyone who is from out of state or doesn’t want to get out just yet.

We’ll follow the same procedure as before-you can pay at the meeting or register online if that works better for you. Notes for the meeting will be distributed at the meeting.

Zoom attendees can register online and notes will be sent by email.

Our in person meeting will be in the new Treadle classroom-come to the Grand Av. entrance.

Hope you can make it some way-we’ve missed many people!

May Garment Sewing Group

Garment Sewing Group

May 2021

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Peach Jacket

Liesl + Co Yanaka

Japanese Cotton/Bemberg underlining/lining

1. Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust. Did not do any other shortening – it is a crop jacket and I did not want it any shorter than pictured.

2. The jacket is unlined which I don’t mind because I usually line the sleeves for easy on and off. However, due to the sleeve design I could not line just the sleeves. So I made a muslin from lining, checked fit and made adjustments and then lined the entire jacket by stitching the rs of lining to rs of jacket except at jacket hem.

3. The jacket has faced hems so it was easy to baste lining to jacket at hems and then add the facing.  I had to think out construction steps carefully to get my desired finish. A jacket without lined sleeves does not work for me.

4. The lining hides the seams and I had fun binding the facing with contrast stripe.

5. I like the pattern. The directions are clear and isn’t a difficult make at all, especially if you do not care about lining.

Peach Stripe Tee (pictured above under jacket

Art Gallery Jersey Knit ( very off grain) made from my TNT, McCalls 6964

Large Floral Periwinkle Wrap Skirt

Cotton sateen with Bemberg lining

Simplicity 8699, View C, lengthened

1. I liked the contour waistband on this skirt so I thought I would give it a try. It is an unlined skirt so once again I needed to make some changes in construction.

2. I constructed the skirt, cutoff facing of lining leaving seam allowance and stitched the lining to the skirt rst at wrap facing edges.

3. Then I basted the lining to the skirt at waist and added the waistband. I think it worked out well.

4.The pattern calls for two buttons at wrap but I added a third. I also had fun adding bias trim to waistband facing.

Periwinkle Short Sleeve Turtleneck (pictured above)

Cotton/Spandex jersey knit

TNT Jalie T-Shirts Pattern 2805

Light Weight Joggers

Denim

Jalie Vanessa Pants

1. This is my second make from this pattern. I went down a size and added cuffs with elastic.

2.My first pair was made with a light weight  linen blend , no cuffs.

3. Between the two pairs and the fit adjustments I have made a third pair would be perfect – I think!

Indigo Leaves Top (pictured above)

Rayon jersey

Jalie 2682 Women’s tops

This is a favorite pattern. I am finding this time of year I want my neck to be warm so this Tee and the short sleeve Turtleneck meet my needs as we move from spring to summer.

Kristin’s Garments

Vanessa Fluid Pant by Jalie—Black linen/activewear knit

1. Added length, swapped waistband and ankle cuffs for Hudson Pant pattern pieces and cut from knit.

2. Eliminated elastic from ankle cuffs as activewear knit gathered linen.

3. Linen is definitely bulkier at the waist with the gathering but great for the pattern design.

Spring Green Jacket

Metra Blazer from Love Notions

Activewear knit with fleece on wrong side

1. This is similar to Debbie’s Morris Blazer/Grainline Studios. Princess seams on front and side seam goes toward back so almost not a “side” seam. Longer than Morris with collar options.

2. Great directions and drafting. Marking lines blur sometimes. Full bust option.

3. Pocket welt is clever and easy to insert.

4. Front lapel is applied with burrito roll so very clean interior.

5. Love the Love Notions instructions-clear, beautifully laid out and very well organized-links to tutorials that I watched for the welt and burrito roll/shoulders.

6. Lapels lie flat, fabric may be not the best but it is a nice alternative to a zip fleece!

The Top That Every Pattern Company Makes

Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch

Linen, rayon and chambray

1. Itch to Stitch has a large size range and cup sizes so I wanted to test the pattern in different sizes and fabrics before jumping in and using for class.

2. The instructions are very old school so I ignored them and applied the bands with my serger and topstitched the seam allowances toward the body of garment.

3. Pattern is well drafted-sleeves are nicely narrow/no bra view under arm. The neck could be a bit smaller, depending on the fabric you use. Band seemed to be a bit smaller than bottom of garment so I would cut band larger next time so I can accommodate as needed.

4. Bust dart for C+ cup sizes needs to point up-not much room under arm to move up.

5. Added a few touches-machine embroidery on chambray and bias binding on linen.

Garnet Hill PJ Pants

Tranquil Pajamas/Love Notions

Art Gallery cotton knit/linen binding

1. I’ve been ripping this pajama style out of the catalog for years!! The Love Notions pattern is exactly what I needed.

2. Pants are one seam and fit spot on-except for the peak of the center back seam but that is easily cut down.

3. The tulip detail takes a little time-the detail piece is topstitched on but could easily be sewn into the seam-but that’s what makes them special.

4. I think I have a new favorite pattern company!! And they are on sale till May 10-40% off!!

New pattern printing company-Sublime Grafx

1. Print patterns in tissue, light white paper or regular heavier white paper.

2. Patterns are printed in color if the file is in color-no extra charge.

3. Flat fee for printing no matter how many pages-$10, $8 and $6 per pattern.

4. There was an email or two between us to get it sorted but they were very nice and I love my tissue patterns!

5. I learned from ordering both from Sublime Grafx and Pattern Review that if you want all sizes you need to tell them. They are saving trees and assume you are making only one size.

June Garment Sewing Group Zoom /Live? We will keep you posted!

Tuesday, June 8, 10:30 Thursday, June 10, 10:30 Saturday, June 12, 10:30