Although we’d much rather like to see and be seen in person, the Zoom meetings have been a great substitute for getting together!

Debbie’s Garments:

Denim Blue Rayon Challis Shirtdress: Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress, View B.

1. Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust but did not shorten length.

2. I prefer to do the collar before side seams for easier fit adjustments so I changed order of construction and did the hot dog method for a contrast yoke facing.

3. I did not add the chest pocket and wished I would have added side seams pockets.

4. The button band instructions are confusing so be sure to read info on pattern piece thoroughly.

5. I feel the pattern runs big – I would go down a size if I make it again.

6. This is a fun pattern and I am finding loose dresses are so much more cool and fun to wear with the weather we are experiencing lately!

Blue Flora Wrap Top: New Look 6560, View C, 85% Cotton and 15% Linen Blend.

1. As always did standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.

2. The top does look short so I considered adding length but after reading many reviews (2019 pattern of the year on Pattern Review) I did not adjust length – good decision!

3. For security I added a snap at the center front and made serger loops for the tie belt.

4. This is a quick and easy make and perfect for keeping cool this summer.

Wide Cropped Denim Pants: New Look 6643 plus Burda 7058, Tencel.

1. To get the fit I used Burda from waist to crotch and for the look I used New Look from crotch to hem. I shortened the length by 4 inches in segments along the leg of the pants.

2. The Burda pants are a TNT pattern for me so it was fun to try out the wide leg from New Look and have success – these pants are cool and fun!

Pineapple Tee-shirt Dress: New Look 6449, View A, Cotton Lycra

1. My first step was to make my petite adjustments from shoulder to bust. I did not change the length.

2. This tee -shirt dress is less fitted than McCalls 7432 – my make from June club- and that works for me. There are times when I want a little more shaping but lately I am enjoying loose fitting dresses. This pattern does the trick! It is a quick and easy make.

Kristin’s Garments:

Knit Jumpsuit: Butterick 6330, View E, Liverpool knit

1. Easy summer sewing-neck and armhole hems are just turned under. Seam down center back with slit opening to allow getting the jumpsuit on 🙂

2. I like this style pocket at it lays better than an in-seam pocket (IMHO).

3. The legs are wide but not overly. I cut off 7” because the “shorter” length felt more summery. Hoping that the fabric relaxes a bit so the leg doesn’t stand open at hem so much.

4. Waist casing-1” seam allowance at waist, trim bodice seam and then press pant seam toward bodice and topstitch to form casing. This is a nice look, it worked very well. Would be easy to tack on a bow as shown in my inspiration pic.

5. Fit adjustments-I sized down one size in the pant and ended up going down one more because I didn’t want all the ease in pattern. Also, added an inch to bodice length and took off an inch in pant waist length (height/crotch depth 🙂

Woven Jumpsuit: New Look 6413, View A, Crinkle Linen

1. Fit-very good for overall length and waist location. Neck opening a bit large-I’d take a 1/4” seam next time for starters. Legs aren’t as tight as it shows on pattern cover-I liked how they turned out for me. Sleeves are to pattern for View A. Next time I will add a cuff to give a more stable hem that doesn’t stretch out-maybe washing will help?

2. Zipper opening at neck seemed to take some time but looked nice and was fairly easy in the end. A good sewing friend advised putting the zip in the neck and that probably was a better option.

3. Waist casing-pattern called for 5/8” seam allowance and then stitching seam allowance at edge and inserting elastic. We usually cringe at this when our young students encounter this in a pattern but the linen held together and I serged the raw edges together (not a bad idea to serge edges before sewing if they are raveling) and inserted elastic. I tried the topstitch method as above but in the end did not because it seemed to “blouse” better without it.

4. I didn’t include in-seam pockets because of added bulk and it also made the waist casing smoother.

5. Legs are fun rolled up at ankles too!

Wavy Stripe Shorts: Jalie Pull-on Pants and Shorts, No stretch woven

1. Great go-to pull on pant with just the right amount of ease-for me 🙂 Great waist shaping.

2. Made to pattern with required 3/8” seam allowances.

3. Waist casing is a facing that is sewn on and turned to inside. I especially like the shaping of the waist-not straight across but higher in back and lower (but not too low) in back.

Woven Stripe Shorts: Burda 6952, View B

1. This is a plus size pattern that I wanted to try to see if fit is any different than regular Burda patterns. Burda is still the bomb for pants fit, in my book.

2. The two views are the same except View A has darts, a zip and waistband. I was going to try adding the contour fitted waist band to the gathered version but there was a gap between idea/cutting out and execution-so it’s a narrower folded waistband as called for in View B.

Hello, Summer!!!

August Fashion Sewing Club via Zoom or at:

Saturday, August 8,10:30 at Treadle

Tuesday, August 11, 10:30 at Treadle

Thursday, August 13, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

When Debbie sent her photos in her back yard I had to take my photos in my surroundings-down on the farm 🙂 Hope you’ve been finding your happy place wherever you are-we hope to have some live meetings next month. Will keep you posted!

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club

June 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

Floral Tee Shirt Dress: McCalls 7432, View E

Art Gallery cotton spandex

1. Did my standard petite adjustments and breezed through this quickly. Fun make that I will wear often.

Poppy Backyard Tunic/Dress: Closet Case Cielo, View C

Textured Cotton.

1. Did my standard petite adjustments.

2. Changed order of construction to adjust fit if necessary.

3. Stabilized pocket seams.

4. Serged bias neck edge finish.

5. This is a fun make, I like the back shoulder yoke detail and of course the pockets.

Floral/Fleece Contrast Raglan Tee: Jalie Marie Claude

Floral from Tee dress and fleece from my stash.

1. I loved the combination of the two fabrics but didn’t have quite enough for the back.

I didn’t want to give-up so after looking at some RTW I was able to add some exit interest.

2. Using my scraps I cut apart the back pattern piece at my waist and cut two lower pieces to create faux button placket. I did add and stabilize seam allowances .

3. Placket edges are clean finished before stitching to upper back.

4. Tee is completed as pattern directs with the addition of buttons to the exit interest.

Purple Cut Apart Tee: McCalls 6964

Avalon Jersey, 94% cotton, 6% elastic.

1. Again, checking out RTW, I saw this tee and knew I had some fabric in my stash that would step up a basic tee and fabric.

2. Using my favorite tee shirt pattern as my base I cut apart the front pattern to form the design lines and added seam allowances.

3. Before constructing the tee, I added fusible interfacing to seam lines and clean finished placket edges. Three buttons were added for a little more interest.

Kristin’s Garments:

Camber Set #2-Top: Merchant & Mills Camber Set

Rayon fabric

1. Executed changes from last month-added to bottom edge of back yoke for a rounded back adjustment. I tried to cut one yoke on the bias so the crooked lines wouldn’t but my cutting was way off and then I sewed the bias cut yoke to the wrong side and it didn’t work anyway!!

2. Still love the fit of it-sleeves and all.

3. I made the neck band correctly this time and like the looks of it.

Cool Summer Woven Tee: Scout Tee-Grainline Studios

Rayon fabric

1. Executed changes from last month-sleeves and armholes and had to grab this out of the closet as I ran out of summer things to wear. Love the cool draping of the fabric-cooler than a knit tee! And quick to sew-no bust dart!

Cool Summer Woven Tank: Willow Tee-Grainline Studios

Cotton fabric

1. Very good fit and nice coverage at neck and armholes.

2. Serged the bias edges on, turned to wrong side and topstitched instead of their method.

3. Nice deep hem.

One More Woven Tee: Coram Top & Dress, Allie Olson Patterns

Cotton fabric

1. Saw this at Puyallup and had to give it a try. Raglan sleeves with a dolphin hem-love that name.

2. Pattern sewed up well-like the hem.

3. Neck band is a bias strip and sewn on like a knit band-maybe a bit wide but laid down pretty nicely.

Lace Jacket: Now Shirt from Sewing Workshop

Novelty lace-colored on right side, white on wrong side

1. I may have overcooked this one! Very much attracted to the colors of the lace but the white backing is high contrast. And the seam allowances stretched out so most were bound with bias binding.

2. Cut 2” folded strips for front placket (pattern has simple, folded placket), hems and sleeves. I intended to use these folded but a white seam allowance still showed through so I encased some of them.

3. Swapped the “Now” collar out and used the “Zen” as it was shorter and stood up. Not sure how it will “wear”.

4. Turned in to a long sew. I have a fair amount left so will most likely underline next time but really wanted the airiness of the lace to be a feature of the jacket.

July Fashion Sewing Club Dates

Thursday, July 9, 10:30 at SR Harris – maybe!

Saturday, July 11, 10:30 , Treadle -maybe!

Tuesday, July 14, 10:30, Treadle – maybe!

We had a great turn out with 26 people hopping on to our Zoom meeting-froze my iPad but the show went on!

Here are photos from sew and tell. It’s never too late to send photos-I will keep adding them to this blogpost.

Next meeting is tomorrow-Thursday-at 10:30. Anyone wishing to attend can email me for Club sheets in advance so you can print them out if you want.

The meeting link can be accessed here in the Calendar or email me and I can send it to you.

Thanks for staying connected with us!

We started with ten attendees at our Tuesday Zoom meeting, ten on Thursday and then 18 on Saturday! We had new people, regular attenders and one unidentified iPHone 🙂 It was a great way for people to check us out. Everybody mentioned how nice it was to see familiar faces and talk sewing.

First, we’ll catch up on some show and tell and then you’ll see the Club sheets and photos of our garments. Looks like we may be meeting this way again in May so work on your skillz with Zoom and join us in May!

And now Debbie and Kristin garments/Club sheets-

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club

April 2020

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy Vintage Shirt Dress:

Sew Over It Vintage Shirt Dress, View 1

Rayon Challis

1. Not sure I was into the vintage look so I made a muslin and did all my shortening adjustments between shoulder and waist and hip and hems. I also added 1 inch to waist length but removed that inch after the try on.  The upper body fit seemed a little boxy.  I feel it runs big so consider going down a size for bodice.

2. The pattern is easy and goes together quickly, especially if you adjust order of construction.

3. I made a fabric belt and used covered buttons.

4. I like the dress but will not make it again. I’m sticking to today’s current patterns.

Home Dec Jean Jacket:  

Butterick 5616, View B

Ink Bolt Ebony, 71%cotton, 12%nylon, 11% rayon

1. I have made this pattern before and was set to sew without any change to pattern.

2. I did change construction order and constructed collar before side seams.

3. The fabric is quite heavy so I limited the amount of interfacing – i.e. only interface half of cuff and band. I used a rayon lining for under collar.

4. I used all purpose thread and a size 16 needle for topstitching. My first choice would have been to use topstitch thread but none in my stash. Also as you can see I have buttonholes without buttons. The pattern calls for 3 buttonholes on cuff but I did two. I need ten 3/4” buttons for entire jacket and again none in my stash.

5. I added trim to back neck line collar. This pattern is a TNT but I do prefer the Janet Pray Islander System and her Jean Jacket pattern, especially for construction techniques.

Grey Stripe Ballet/Boatneck Tee:

Sew Over It Edie tee from Work to Weekend ebook

Cotton Jersey

1. This is a new pattern for me and I like the fit and neckline. I did do a lot of shortening and stabilized the neckline.  Other than that it went together quickly and is quite easy.

New Garments sewn with favorite TNT patterns used for the following outfits:

Grey Denim Jeans – Eleonore by Jalie, 78%cotton, 21% poly and 1% elastic

Panel Tee – Vogue 9065, View A, Rayon Jersey

Coral Blazer -Morris Blazer by  Grainline Studio, Cotton Stretch

Rusty Tee with Bow at Neckline – McCalls 6964, rayon Jersey

Plaid floral Pants- Vogue 1630, Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina, rayon, nylon and spandex

Kristin’s Garments

Denim Jacket

Fit for Art Tabula Rasa Base Pattern

Assorted denims

1. Purchased the pattern and tried on their muslins for a first fitting. Wish I would have taken more time and a few pictures!

2. Pattern is based on a kimono with a square underarm and princess seams.

3. Pattern has horizontal fitting lines that work well to divide pieces for piecing your leftovers 🙂

4. Bust dart quite low (where are my photos from the try-on?) but it fits nicely with the underarm seam.

5. Looks like I need a rounded shoulder or sway back adjustment (centerback rides up and stands out) but I added a center back seam and topstitched it so hoped that it might go away with omitting the center back seam.

Peach Wool Jacket

Fit for Art Tabula Rasa with Shirt Variations

Very soft wool in gabardine (?) weave

1. This was my attraction to the pattern-she has done all the variations for you. First bit of advice-pin the variation right on to the pattern so you don’t accidentally cut out the base piece! So the front of the jacket is on the cross grain because that is exactly what I did.

2. I added 5” to the pattern to get a longer shirt jacket.

3. Moved the dart but opted not to mess with the center back.

4. Should have messed with the center back!

5. Stand up collar doesn’t stand up much so Debbie’s (Treadle’s) beautiful floral wool doesn’t show as much as I’d hoped.

6. Bust dart placement is better but I may change it to look like a typical Burda princess dart-short and in the right place with no relationship to the underarm seam.

7. Stay tuned for further variations.

Spring Tee

Fit for Art Tabula Rasa Knits Tee

Cotton knit

1. Made the pattern using same size as jacket. Happy that the drafting skinnied up the sleeve and overall worked well as a tee.

2. Neck shaping is a bit close at sides of neck but that is easily changed.

3. Threads featured a blue faux wrap dress (painted garment was the focus) that uses this pattern with the Clever Crossings variation.

Addendum-there were some drag lines coming from the center back neck on both of the Tabula Rasa jackets which would indicate a rounded shoulder adjustment so I gave it a try one more time in a woven quilt weight cotton.

May 2020 Fashion Sewing Club

Saturday, May 7, 10:30 at Treadle

Tuesday, May 12, 10:30 at Treadle

Thursday, May 14, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville