Meeting Saturday at Treadle

Last chance for March Garment Sewing Group today at Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30 am.

Here are photos from our meeting on Thursday at First Sewing-

Pattern number TBD in linen
All the dots matched along the pleat!!
Now Jacket as modified in Sewing Workshop Club-pinwale cord, E-tee and Helix pant-all Sewing Workshop patterns
Japanese pattern in cable knit
Adaptation of Tremont Jacket
Burda 6990
I Spy quilt/Happy grandma 🙂
Simplicity 9275 in knit
Katherine Tilton blouse in lightweight wool
Burda 6463 as vest in wool
Vogue 1899
Liesl & Co Verdun Woven T-shirt

Wednesday at Lakes Makerie

Yesterday was our first March meeting-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, March 9 and at Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. Here’s what we saw at Lakes-

Stacker Jacket by Papercut Patterns in corduroy
Stacker Jacket, back view
New Look 6659 in denim
Sew House Seven Albert Street Skirt in stretch twill available at Lakes
Versatile Top and Pants from Tauko #5
Soho Coat from Sewing Workshop in wool
Chateau Coat from Sewing Workshop in double sided wool
Remy Top from Sew House Seven with free sleeve extension
Latest and greatest men’s shirt!
Cuff detail
Collar detail
Beautiful handwork

Your February Makes

Vests based on Tremont Jacket from Sewing Workshop
Vintage Shirt with tower placket
Talvikki Sweater/Named in double sided fleece
Attitude Pullover/Peekaboo Patterns
Neighborhood Hoodie/Liesl & Co. and Girl’s Dress/McCalls 6915
Carole’s sketches are always fun to see!
Self drafted sari skirt
Opal Coat/Paprika Patterns and Pants/KwikSew 3115
Logan Shacket/StyleArc in corduroy
Gallery Tunic/Liesl & Co
Hayward Tunic/StyleArc
Vest/Simplicity 1506
Vest/Butterick 6328 and Dress/New Look 6428-all the way from Texas!
A Way With Stripes/Simplicity 8556
Clare Coat/Closet Core
Elle Shirt With Mixit Top/Sewing Workshop in wool
Ikina Jacket 2/Sewing Workshop
What to do with a remnant of silk? Shoulder seams and buttons!

What will you be sewing for March-that in between, “I don’t really want to sew more wool but it’s still COLD” month!!

February Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Light and Shadow/Cutting Line Designs/Boiled wool

1. Cut size small and petited between shoulders and bust but not length.

2. Stabilized the hems with Steam a Seam and then topstitched.

3. Used a serged bias finish for armholes.

4. This vest requires a lot of fabric due to the neck cowl but is worth it.

5. The fabric requires a great amount of steaming, press and pounding but again well worth it.

Vogue 1541/Cotton shirting

1. This is my second make from this pattern. I like her construction techniques but find the sleeves very narrow.

2. I petited between the shoulder and bust and shortened the front placket 7” and cut it on the bias.

3. I also straightened the outside collar edges instead of using the curve shape.

4. Her collar instructions are a little tricky so I used my own method. It’s a fun make but time to move onto another pattern for a woven tunic.

Navy Travel Pants/Jalie Vanessa #3676/Poly travel fabric-hard to see in photo 🙂

1. This is TNT pattern for me and thought it would work for a staple travel pant, especially on a plane.

2. Polyester is never my first choice but in this case it worked well for my needs.

3. I converted the waistband to one piece and eliminated the faux fly zipper.

4. A quick make and a versatile pattern.

McCalls 7360, View A/Japanese cotton gauze

1. I did not need to petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten the sleeve length by one inch.

2. The pattern has a 2 piece sleeve which I like but I would do a continuous or tower placket next time.

3. I used a burrito roll for the yoke and applied placket and cuffs ws to rs.

4. I will use this pattern again – other than out dated construction techniques it checks a lot of boxes.

Simplicity 7194, View A/Organic cotton knit and ribbing

1. Another TNT pattern that I often hack to meet my needs or my fabric needs- in this case too much stretch!

2. I changed the cowl to a T neck by removing width and length from pattern piece. If I did it again I would make the T neck out of ribbing but I didn’t have enough ribbing after making bottom band and cuffs from ribbing.

3. I wanted more of a boxy fit so I straightened the side seams from bust to hem.

Kristin’s Garments:

Burda 5941/Assorted corduroys and wovens

1. Made a size 16 for bodice, size 18 at hips.

2. One piece collar went in very easily with facings.

3. Sleeves went in flat very well.

4. Bust dart built in with the two horizontal seams. Makes pocket application a bit awkward.

5. Front placket is part of front facing-worked well.

6. Took sleeves and side seam at bust in 1/2” and that improved the fit by a lot.

T:201 Elastic Tie Sweater/The Assembly Line/Pendleton wool

1. Loved working with the wool! Fit turned out to be wonderful-size medium.

2. Elbow dart in sleeve; sleeve facing at hem.

3. Learned how to use eyelet stitch but it was a bit small for the tie.

4. Made a narrow hem-would add to length next time.

5. Made elastic cording from cotton knit-jersey rolls to right side (wrong side shows) on crossgrain and to wrong side (right side shows) on straight of grain.

T:201 Elastic Tie Sweater/The Assembly Line/Cotton waffle knit

1. Omitted neck facing and holes for ties.

2. Took dart out of sleeve:

1. Draw a line from hem to tip of dart, parallel to grainline.

2. Fold dart closed.

3. Draw straight line from armscye (close to side seam) to each side of newly opened area.

4. Fold this newly drawn “dart” closed.

5. True up the hem.

3. Finished the neck edge and hems with knit strips and sewed all seams with knit strips.

4. Took in sleeves and side seams by 1/2” to down size from woven pattern.

OOPVogue 8616/Activewear knits

1. Split neck version-shaped front and back center seams. Vee seemed to open too high for comfort so fiddled with that.

2. Pattern calls for a neck zipper but not necessary.

OOP Vogue 8616/Activewear knits

3. Wrap version-shoulder seams continue up to folded over neck edge. Stitched down the fold to keep things neat.

March 2023 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, March 8, 10:30 Lakes Makerie

Thursday, March 9, 10:30 First Sewing

Saturday, March 11, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods

Wednesday Photos

Here are pics from yesterday-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, and then at Sewing Lounge on Saturday. Great sewing!!

Madrid Top/Sewing Workshop adapted to knits and no front closure-knit from Sewing Lounge
Sew House Seven in yummy bamboo fleece from Sewing Lounge
Art Gallery knits inButterick 6633
Renee Pant/Jalie in preteen size (long legs 🙂
Roxy from Stylearc in wool from Sewing Lounge
Marley Shirt/Stylearc
Vogue 9347 Blouse adapted to jacket
Vintage men’s shirt pattern in double fleece
Beautiful wool/silk self drafted to use every thread 🙂
Eureka/Sewing Workshop in soft knit for the perfect vest
KwikSew 2896-made for Valentine’s Day-jacket
Anything But Ordinary/Cutting Line Designs and lined!
Jarrah Top/Megan Nielsen in textured knit from Quilter’s Haven
The other Jarrah Top in waffle knit from Quilter’s Haven
Ebony Tunic/Closet Core-gray knit from Quilter’s Haven

Last of January Photos

I hope you are in the sunshine somewhere-it’s beautiful!! Speaking of beautiful-here are the remaining sew and tell pics. Another great month of sewing!

Lisette 6296
Simplicity 9291 Gertie pattern
Shucks, I didn’t write down the wrap sweater pattern! Can anyone help me out?
Sapporo Coat/now Nova Coat from Papercut Patterns
Vogue 1784
OOP coat pattern
Historically correct doll bodice
Daughter/mother duo in The Blouse by Avid Seamstress (daughter) and Estelle Ponte Jacket by Stylearc (mother)
Madden Skirt by Tessuti Patterns
Tremont Jacket/Vest by The Sewing Workshop X 2
Nancy’s Blouse by Silhouette Patterns in rayon batik
McCalls 7874 from two old sweatshirts!
Vogue 8854
Wool Coat-Logan Shacket by Stylearc
Copied ready-to-wear/still making modifications

Happy sewing for February!!

January Garment Sewing Group Photos

Another wonderful week of meetings despite weather challenges! It is such a pleasure to get together with like minded people and talk about sewing. And afterwards at lunch, too!

Check out the article in Minneapolis/St. Paul Magazine about all the wonderful fabric store options in the metro area! Old news for us but about time everyone else hears about it 🙂

Garment Sewing Group-January 2023

Debbie’s Garments:

Simplicity 9106, cotton flannel

1. Standard petite adjustments were made as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment and overall garment length by 1 inch.

2. The back hem was made even to the front so that the wrong side of the floral print would not be visible.

3. Instead of slip stitching the inside collar, I added a bias strip to cover neck edge.

4. I basted a contrast facing to right front then had my serger cut at basting stitch line. Then the the facing was wrapped around serger stitch to have contrast from facing show and again not have wrong side of navy print visible. The trim was stitched in the ditch to secure.

5. Contrast cuffs were added to sleeves.

Green Plaid Shirt

Helga Shirt by Tessuti Fabrics, View B
(Helga is OOP-new version is Harlow) in textured cotton

1. Determined size then did fitting adjustments, made a muslin and then started over. Needed to go down two sizes. – it is very oversized.

2. Generally the pattern has very good construction techniques but it does go from 3/8” to 1/4” seam allowances so you must pay attention. Also there is a lot of hand basting that could be replaced by serging an edge and press under.

3. This was a fun but challenging make. Too many pattern fit adjustments were needed and that affected the neck opening and slide slits a bit. Also, plaid fabric probably wasn’t the best choice when matching seams.

Tabitha Tee by Love Notions in cotton knits

1. This a TNT pattern, especially when using up leftovers.

2. For this make I sewed the rst of neckband to wrong side of tee and then topstitched the band at neck edge.

Kristin’s Garments:

Assembly Line Shirt Dress in charcoal tencel
No safety pins!!

1. Features: bust and bodice back darts, skirt is more a-line, fold over placket, simple turn under sleeve placket.

2. Started with a medium size bodice and large skirt-bodice snug so redrew lines and cut a large size for bodice.

3. Sleeves are very similar to the Burda pattern. Turning under the placket was quick and easy, especially with the tencel. Sleeve cap less shaped than Burda.

4. Fold under placket was another time saver.

5. Good instructions, lots of information, mostly clear 🙂 Happy with my fabric choice.=

Burda Shirt Dress #5971 in stretch twill
No safety pins!!

1. Features: bust darts only, straighter skirt, not as much shape, folded sew-on placket, traditional sleeve placket.

2. Made size 16 bodice and 18 skirt. Fit well.

3. Sleeve has a well shaped cap, took a little easing with the twill.

4. Pattern instructions were misplaced so followed Grainline instructions.

Burda 6067, Neck B in cotton knit

1. Burda has a “new look” which seems to mean even less instructions! But still the same great drafting.

2. Narrow-but not too-turtle neck. Long sleeve has ruching with a strip of elastic but not interested.

3. I sized up as it seemed to be close fitting, happy I did.

New Look 6469 in rayon knit

1. Similar to Laundry Day Tee made previously except raglan instead of set in sleeves.

2. Pattern calls for a zip with the turtle neck but not necessary with rayon knit. Turtle neck very similar in size to the Burda tee above.

3. I like the fit of the New Look better than Love Notions Laundry Day.

February Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, February 8, 10:30 at Quilters Haven in Rosemount

Thursday, February 9, 10:30 at First Sewing in Bloomington

Saturday, February 11, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge in St. Paul

Lots to See on Saturday

Great turnout in Lakes Makerie’s new classroom! Sunny, wood floors and bright yellow chairs-snow didn’t seem quite so overwhelming.

We’ll be at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul on Wednesday and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, both start at 10:30.

Sandra Betzina wool coat
Warm lining
Elastic Tie Sweater
Jalie 2682
Remy from Grainline Studio with free sleeve extension
Vogue 8924
Vintage shirt in plaid wool

Happy Thanksgiving and More Photos

We are thankful for all of you allowing us to keep doing what we love! You inspire us every month-speaking of-next month’s meetings will be:

December meetings: Thursday, 12/8 at First Sewing, Saturday, 12/10 at Treadle Yard Goods, Wednesday, 12/14 at Lakes Makerie

Can’t wait!!! Hope you all enjoy your Turkey Day, however you celebrate!

Copied RTW, original on left
Upcycling-Garment bag from oversized men’s shirt
Butterick 6241
Silhouette 8019 Diane’s Wrap Dress
OOP KwikSew
Vogue 9244
Great kids’ Christmas gift McCalls 8250
Sewing Workshop Sterling Jacket
McCalls 7969
Chateau Jacket Sewing Workshop
KwikSew 2895
Butterick 6634
Stanway Tee, Cashmerette Ahead of the Curve book
Opal Coat & Cardigan, Paprika Patterns
And a little Merry Christmas!

November GSG Photos and Comments :)

Garment Sewing Group/November 2022

Debbie’s Garments:

Itch to Stitch Cerrito Alto Jacket/Cotton blend with ponte contrast

My Jacket of Mistakes and Disappointments! What Happened?

Chose the wrong size

Not enough fabric thus knit sleeves with woven main fabric and unlined sleeves – needed to adjust lining construction

Cut off too many zipper teeth and lost pull when testing and needed to rip out and insert again –

It is a tailored jacket and I wasn’t prepared for that

omitted zipper welt pockets

too much in a hurry and so much more!

I like this jacket pattern. The directions are very detailed and well illustrated. The method of attaching the lining without any hand sewing is terrific. I will give this a try again but not for a long time.

KwikSew 3555, Cotton and Burda 7062, Stretch cotton corduroy

1. This is TNT pattern for me but I am ready to try something new.

2. I like the contrast band even though it is black. The only thing I would do differently would be to sew the band to the center front right sides together so the black fabric would be exposed and not the ws of the print.

1. Another TNT pattern for me but again, ready to try something new.

True Bias Marlo Sweater, Sweater knit blend

1. So I tried something new and I didn’t do well.

2. I did shorten the length between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. I also lengthened the short version of the sweater by 2”.

3. I feel I should have used a more stable sweater knit.

4. I constructed the sweater with the serger and tried topstitching the bands using a walking foot but that did not work well – needed a more stable knit.

5. I gave up on buttonholes after trying Solvy and sticky back stabilizer to no avail.

6. The sweater is no longer a cardigan since I sewed the bands closed with buttons – it works.

Kristin’s Garments

Karine Sweater Jalie 4242, Various knits

1. Had to try one of the versions of the short cardigan. This one is a raglan-probably cut along the lines of their Romy pattern.

2. No hem band or back neck facing. Wrapped seams used very effectively.

3. Had fun using stash pieces.

Laundry Day Tee Love Notions, Rayon knit

1. Looking for a fuller-at-hem tee to layer under garments.

2. This is a size large-narrow across shoulders. Close fit through bust and back.

Mitchell Trousers Closet Core, Bottom weight herringbone
Well fitting back side without the welt pockets

1. A new pattern that I just had to try. Blakandblanca Instagram photo inspired me. Wide leg and tapered leg version. I made a size 16 in wide leg version.

2. Directions are great. Everything came together. The pleat is a bit different and I’d love to see someone else’s version of it.

3. Discovered the bar tack feature on my sewing machine.

4. Omitted welt pockets and side tabs.

5. Fit worked very well. Lots of trouser features (fly shield!)-unfortunately most of them are invisible to the general public 🙂 A slower sew but worth it in the end.

November 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, December 8, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, December 10, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, December 14, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.