My Jacket of Mistakes and Disappointments! What Happened?
– Chose the wrong size
– Not enough fabric thus knit sleeves with woven main fabric and unlined sleeves – needed to adjust lining construction
– Cut off too many zipper teeth and lost pull when testing and needed to rip out and insert again –
– It is a tailored jacket and I wasn’t prepared for that
– omitted zipper welt pockets
– too much in a hurry and so much more!
I like this jacket pattern. The directions are very detailed and well illustrated. The method of attaching the lining without any hand sewing is terrific. I will give this a try again but not for a long time.
1. This is TNT pattern for me but I am ready to try something new.
2. I like the contrast band even though it is black. The only thing I would do differently would be to sew the band to the center front right sides together so the black fabric would be exposed and not the ws of the print.
1. Another TNT pattern for me but again, ready to try something new.
1. So I tried something new and I didn’t do well.
2. I did shorten the length between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. I also lengthened the short version of the sweater by 2”.
3. I feel I should have used a more stable sweater knit.
4. I constructed the sweater with the serger and tried topstitching the bands using a walking foot but that did not work well – needed a more stable knit.
5. I gave up on buttonholes after trying Solvy and sticky back stabilizer to no avail.
6. The sweater is no longer a cardigan since I sewed the bands closed with buttons – it works.
1. Had to try one of the versions of the short cardigan. This one is a raglan-probably cut along the lines of their Romy pattern.
2. No hem band or back neck facing. Wrapped seams used very effectively.
3. Had fun using stash pieces.
1. Looking for a fuller-at-hem tee to layer under garments.
2. This is a size large-narrow across shoulders. Close fit through bust and back.
1. A new pattern that I just had to try. Blakandblanca Instagram photo inspired me. Wide leg and tapered leg version. I made a size 16 in wide leg version.
2. Directions are great. Everything came together. The pleat is a bit different and I’d love to see someone else’s version of it.
3. Discovered the bar tack feature on my sewing machine.
4. Omitted welt pockets and side tabs.
5. Fit worked very well. Lots of trouser features (fly shield!)-unfortunately most of them are invisible to the general public 🙂 A slower sew but worth it in the end.
November 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, December 8, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, December 10, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, December 14, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Looking a little bit like it was a slumber party, here are our October garments and notes.
We’ll be at the Sewing Lounge tomorrow (Wednesday), then First Sewing on Thursday and Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. See you!?
1. A TNT pattern for me. This pattern can be made up in a variety of knits that can be casual or dressy and takes about a yard of 54-60 inch fabric. It’s a win-win.
2. The original pattern has a longer shirt tail hem on back . I made the front and back even in length with a shirt tail hem.
3. Instead of a neckband I did a serged “bias” edge finish to eliminate bulk and give it a more dressy look.
1. I was excited to try this pattern because it seemed relaxed but a step up from an everyday bathrobe. I still feel that way but constructing it is a different story – it is very “putsy” to make and put on! The waffle knit sews as smooth as butter.
2. I made the robe knee length.
3. The front band is connected to a faced neck band that hugs the back neck.
4. The pattern sets in sleeves but I put them in using the flat method.
5. I added the ties for closing the band after the robe was finished so I could get correct placement due to my height-I am short .
1. This pattern runs large – next time I will take that in consideration when choosing a size.
2. Instead of neckband I serged a contrast knit strip to neck edge and then folded contrast to wrong side and stitched in the ditch to secure trim.
3. I put a straight hem on the sleeves rather than adding trim at an angle.
Coral Dot PJ Bottoms
1. My go to pattern for a quick and easy make.
2. I made it to pattern but I did change up the waist band by doing an “Eileen Fischer type” waistband. I determine the waist measurement and sew the elastic as a circle. Then the rs of the elastic is serged to rs of pj waist. The elastic is turned to ws and stitched in the ditch at center front and back and side seams.
1. Shortened the waist (tie point) by 1.5” and when I shortened the neck facing accordingly, it was easier to just fold the center front in (and lessen the overlap at CF). This also took out some bulk in the overlap.
2. Cut out a size 16 and graded larger at hips and took 1/4” seams at sides and sleeve seams. Sleeves are narrow and have a high cap but went in nicely. And to be fair, that pattern photo suggests this is to be worn without something underneath.
3. Fabric was wonderful to work with-used triple zigzag to understitch neck edge. Interfaced the back neck facing but just used 3/8” fusible stabilizer for larger part of neck edge.
4. Omitted the hole in side seam and attaching ties so I can try different solutions as I plan to wear tied most of time and the stickiness of fabric will keep flaps in place (I think).
5. Made size 20 which is largest that New Look usually goes. With this stretch rayon, it was a good size. Pant seems wider than pattern photo. Turned down an extra 2” at waist mostly due to stretchiness and weight of fabric.
1. I couldn’t help myself-this was the pattern I had in my head for this fabric. I have a wedding in Phoenix and didn’t want to blend in-ha!!
2. Because of the lantern shape there was no need to increase at hips! Pretty much made to pattern-sleeves are on the slender side but it is a tunic and not a jacket so that’s OK.
3. Collar was applied with the hot dog technique from my “At Any Angle” shirts last month. The collar is very high but turns over nicely.
4. Interesting selvage edge was used at hems and facing.
5. I have a dress waiting in the wings in case I lose my nerve or the temperature remains high.
1. Last month’s Willow Tank from Grainline Studio was great to wear under my At Every Angle shirt so I thought rayon would make a great knit option under a top but I wanted a short sleeve without the bulk of seams.
2. Pattern calls for 1.25” neckband optional but more as a wrap. I wanted a bit more strength to hold the stretchy rayon in place so I treated it as a tee shirt neckband. I like the narrowness of it.
3. Took in under arm-I think mostly because of the rayon knit.
November 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, November 9, 10:30, Sewing Lounge
Thursday, November 10, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, November 12, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
I know, it’s September already-trying to catch up…
September 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, September 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester
Wednesday, September 14, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
And here’s what we sewed in August—-
Did not petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten length on front, back and sleeves by 2 inches.
This was a fun, easy and quick make. I am fan of Love Notions patterns. I appreciate all the options for sleeves, necklines and lengths offered. The bust darts help in shaping and the dress can easily slip over your head but a zipper closure is optional.
I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.
The under collar is the only pattern piece interfaced due to the fabric texture.
I changed the order of construction and added petersham ribbon to inside collar for a clean finish instead of slip stitching.
I did not enjoy working with this fabric – too shifty.
The jacket end product isn’t what I had in my mind for a go to jean jacket. I think my choice of fabric had a lot to do with the end result.
This is my favorite classic shirt pattern. If you can not find this particular pattern on line try a similar pattern from Cashmerette, Love Notions, Sewaholic, Grainline or the big four.
I raised the front neckline one inch and used a neckband to finish neck edge.
I left the hem length for front as is but shortened back length by 2 inches.
This tee will be perfect for end of summer evenings and it decreased my fabric stash a bit – always a good thing.
Made a size 16 top and skirt. Size was perfect.
Cut 2” off of bottom edge of bodice to raise waist. Helped a lot!
Great fit through bust and shoulders.
1. Added 5” to skirt and raised waist on bodice 1.5”. Needed to piece the center fronts but like the result.
2. Pattern well written. Used rayon for muslin and skirt draped more than it did with the linen.
3. Made size 14.
Pattern instructions from Stylearc seem to be getting better! Pants easy to put together.
Very much the “lantern pant” I’ve been looking for!
Our next Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts next Thursday, June 30 at 10 am at First Sewing, 494 and Penn! The class continues July 7 and 21. Go to “Classes at First Sewing” in the menu bar to register.
June Garment Sewing Group:
1. This is an unlined jacket so my first step was to draft lining pattern pieces. The sleeves are underlined. Also a dart in the sleeve creates a 2 piece look which I like. It eliminates a lot of bulk.
2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment but did not shorten length because it is a cropped style.
3. Due to the texture of the main fabric I only interfaced the under collar.
4. Also due to the texture of the fabric I did not top stitch.
5. This pattern is from 2015. It was a fun make and I also decreased my pattern collection.
1. As always I did my petite adjustments but did not shorten the hem length – this is a crop length shirt.
2. The pattern envelope gives yardage for a skirt. There is no skirt in this pattern – maybe a typing error. That should have been my first clue that the pattern had some flaws.
3. The neckband is too short for neck and the directions for collar insertion are poor.
4. The only feature different from my TNT blouse pattern is the “cuff”.
Navy Gingham Pants, Burda 7062, Gingham with Bemberg lining, see photo above
1. This pattern is from 2013 and has been updated in the catalog.
2. I eliminated the side slits and added a lining.
3. This is a TNT for me and it will stay in pattern collection.
Coral “Scraps” Blouse
1. I did my standard petite adjustments and removed 2 inches from the length. I also softened the shirt tail hem and removed length from there as well. The designer is tall!
2. I raised the v-neck 1 inch.
3. I changed construction steps because I wanted to have the neck band on the rs of the blouse. I used the shorten/lengthen line to determine the the length of back top and bottom.
4. I chose this pattern because of the lantern sleeve. I am not fan of v-neck blouses but I thought I would give it a try anyway.
5. It was a fun make even though the construction techniques are kind of putsy and 1/2 seam allowances are used – WHY?!
1. Pattern includes lining but didn’t want to lose the stretch of fabric so just used facings.
2. Very large pleat in back was topstitched through all layers-directions had it hanging loose-I wanted a bit more of a “yoke line” to copy garment.
3. Center front overlap was eliminated so no closure. Corners at collar were rounded.
4. This pattern was previously made in fleece. Fits surprisingly well (no forward shoulder needed, bust dart in proper place, sleeve is great.
Judging from the photos we have a pretty good time at our meetings! We had a large group at the Sewing Lounge and then a LARGE group of free fabric at First Sewing-and many people went home with a bagful 🙂
Thanks for being there!! Lots of new faces and a few we hadn’t seen for some time…
Purple Print Empire Waist Dress
Itch to Stitch Recoleta Dress
1. Did not do any petite adjustments but shortened length 3 inches.
2. I felt the print needed to be broken up a bit so I added piping around neckband- not fun.
3. Adding a zipper is optional but I disagree with that. Even with zipper I find the dress difficult to put on and take off.
4. I have a difficult time choosing what size to make when using Itch to Stitch patterns. They seem to run large on bodice but smaller at hips. I am sure it is just me but I think I will stay away from this brand for awhile .
Soft Coral Print Cut On Sleeve Blouse
Melody Dolman by Love Notions
1. I did my petite adjustments between shoulder and bust, bust and waist and shortened one inch at hem.
2. I used the one piece collar method from Louise Cutting for collar. It eliminates seams at collar edge. I also softened the shirt tail curve on hem.
3. The directions for inside collar are good, easy and quick and eliminates slipstitching.
4. I feel the blouse fits nice but next time, depending on fabric choice, I would XS shoulders to medium at hips.
5. There will be a next time. Love Notions patterns work well for me.
Oatmeal/Coral Print Sweatshirt
95% Cotton 5% Spandex French Terry 4-way stretch
1. I made this tee last year and was pleased with it. The angled front design line is showing up everywhere so with a few changes I am already thinking of my next make using this pattern.
2. I did my standard petite adjustments.
3. I extended the short sleeve into long sleeve length .
4. I topstitched the angle seam for contrast.
Jalie Vanessa Joggers
1. A TNT pattern that I make often.
2.The changes I make from the original pattern is a one piece waistband without the drawstring feature and no fly front detail.
1. Looking for sun protection and comfort. Quarter zip was pretty straightforward-reinforce the area with interfacing, stitch over stitching line, clip to inside corners, sew each side of zipper and tuck in the triangle at bottom.
2. Pattern called for sewing ribbon to the inside of zipper but used bias strip instead-easier to stitch to raw edge and pressed easily for less bulk.
3. Pattern called for stitching one band on then turning under edges of other and topstitching but with chosen fabric I serged the whole band on and topstitched seam allowance down.
Cold Sewing Day Sweater
Jalie Romy Pattern
Wool knit remnants
1. Very quick sew with only two pattern pieces (sleeve and front/back) and because of that the fit at the neck could use a good forward shoulder adjustment.
2. Instead of adding band, I cut pattern longer to equal band and made a deep hem.
3. Underarm curve and sleeve is to pattern.
4. Funnel neck is nice and their technique of sewing the seam allowances together to keep neck in place is a technique I will use again.
Faux Wrap Skirt (pictured above and below)
New Look 6646
1. Not enough fabric to make the wrap to pattern and didn’t really want the free swinging wrap anyway.
2. Cut the front 2.5” wider and stitched a 1.25” pleat in the position of the wrap hem.
3. Basic straight skirt with back darts. Omitted the waistband and stitched on elastic.
Peplum Sweater Jacket
1. Loved the photo so had to give it a try. Instead of facings and linings I added a band at the neck and a band at center fronts so I had overlap for closure.
2. Lots of seams for knit but a fun adventure in fitting.
3. Lighter weight ponte was perfect fabric choice.
May 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, May 11, 10:30, Ginny’s in Rochester
Thursday, May 12, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, May 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
It’s tomorrow (Thursday, April 14) at First Sewing, Bloomington and there’s going to be ALOT of fabric to swap!!!! Please come and take some. Somebody was moving… There will be some diamonds and some duds but it’s all free and going to Goodwill by 4 pm.
There will also be great sewing inspiration! Here’s what we saw at the Sewing Lounge Wednesday. There were 27 people and we stood on a chair so all could see-but we had a great time 🙂 Thanks for keeping on keeping on.