May Garment Sewing Group Final

A few photos from the Saturday meeting at Quilter’s Haven-

Silhouette Patterns #575 hacked into a biking shirt

And Debbie and Kristin’s garments-

Debbie’s Garments:

Shirt Dress

1. The only fitting adjustment needed was narrow shoulder. Unfortunately I cut the dress length too short – need to wear it with leggings.

2. I added a lining to the back yoke and used the burrito method to construct.

3. This was a fun make. The pattern offers several choices for length, sleeves and bodice. The Chambray fabric was easy to work with.

**Itch to Stitch Medellin Top, cotton interlock and Love Notions Duet Trousers, stretch denim**

1. IS patterns work well for me generally. I did not do any petite adjustments. Since I eliminated the bottom band I increased the body length pattern pieces by one inch.

2. The directions call for clear elastic for the shirring on side. I found that the gather stitches alone worked well so I did not use the elastic.

3. The pattern instructions are clear and concise and the fabric was great to work with.

Love Notions Duet Trousers, Stretch Denim

1. This is my second try at this pattern. The fabric choice makes a difference in sizing. The stretch denim I used was poor quality and shrunk 4 inches when I washed it. Live and Learn!

2. I eliminated the front pockets due to lack of fabric. I used the curvy waistband pattern piece instead of the straight piece.

3. The pattern can be used for stretch woven and stable knits.

4. I am not thrilled with this make. I will try a stable knit next time and then move on.

**Itch to Stitch Galicia Top, cotton poplin**

1. I petited the pattern between shoulder and bust and shortened the length by 2 inches.

2. The pattern has great construction techniques. There is an option for vertical darts which I chose to do. I also shortened the width of the cuff.

3. The pattern is a little out of my comfort zone but I am glad I gave it a try. I think it would be a fun special occasion top.

Kristin’s Garments

**Burda 6114 Jacket, fleece and scuba knit and Ravinia Skirt, Love Notions in cotton interlock (version 1)**

Jacket, Burda 6114

1. Made size 16/18 at hip. Sizing seemed great.

2. Folded 3/4” out of collar lengthwise. Collar is taller in front, probably would change that in future jackets as it just stands up and doesn’t seem to want to lay in a “collarly” fashion. Didn’t interface.

3. Pockets according to pattern were just a passing thought-instead cut 6×9” rectangles and 3 layers so that anywhere the pocket showed would be my knit print. Pockets went from seam to seam and were topstitched through outer fabric across the top. Very happy with them.

4. Changed up zipper installation-folded collar and hem over zip, stitched and turned right side out. Very important (I think): handbasted from pocket top up and down to ensure all meeting points were happy.

5. Left sleeve hems very deep (sleeves were 2”+ too long) so white wrong side of scuba doesn’t show.

Midi Length Knit SkirtRavinia Skirt/Love NotionsCotton knit

1. Oh, my, how could I have been so blind!! I had traveled down the Instagram/email rabbit hole and saw this pattern which matched a picture I had cut out of a catalog numerous times!! How could I have missed the photos of the test garments?

2. But the skirt was already cut out so sew it I must. It isn’t so bad-I knew it was an a-line skirt and that the waist band had negative ease (5-7”) but I didn’t understand that the waist edge of the skirt also had the same negative ease. I was hoping for a few tucks and pleats as the waistband was stretched to meet the skirt. Nope-I had to stretch the skirt to fit the waistband that I cut out two sizes larger to accommodate the fact that my waist was larger than the pattern measurements (not a problem if the skirt is gathered into the negative ease waistband!)

3. The gathered pocket went in well and to be fair there are some funny puckers in my inspiration picture where gathers go all the way to waist.

4. I added 4” to the calf length of the skirt. A narrow elastic is applied to the top waistband seam for extra security.

5. If I make this again, I will get rid of the A-line and add fabric at waist so it has gathers all around 🙂

6. So I went home Wednesday night and made another skirt, this time using the full 60” width of the fabric as my skirt and applying the pockets and gathering the 60” to the negative ease waistband. Now that’s what I had in mind!!

**Ravinia Skirt, Version 1-hem width 100” plus Version 2 (being worn)-gathers at waist and 60” hem width**

**Pleat Detail Dress and Top/Maker’s Atelier, cotton lawn**

1. Made size medium to pattern except for a few construction changes.

2. Seam allowances are 3/8” which makes it a little trickier to serge seam allowances and sew seams but I wanted a nice flat press.

3. Pattern instructions assume you will do things and doesn’t tell you to-understitching facing, finishing facing edges, pleats should have been basted to make pressing easier, etc.

4. There’s a tiny slit in sleeve opening (cuff edge) that may be to allow for more ease but it’s pretty small and not shown on pattern.

**Vogue 8616 (OOP) in activewear fleece**

1. Both are patterns I’ve made before. The Vogue pattern was quite recent-this time I cut off the folded facing and banded the whole opening. Much better and less fussy than the folded facing.

2. The Burda pattern always feels like home to me-shoulders are a bit dropped but not too much. The whole thing feels like a cozy sweatshirt that wears a bit more like a long sleeve tee.

Wool Sweater

1. Had to try this pattern again in something a bit more basic than the other patch work one. Still like it. No changes. Goes together well.

June Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, June 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, June 10, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, June 14, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Last chance for October inspiration!!

Wednesday, 10/12, Ginny’s in Rochester will be our host-she has great new fabric and extra discounts on wool to boot! That’s Wednesday, October 12 at 10:30 am. Ginny’s address is 211 Broadway Av. S., Rochester. Bring a folding chair if sitting is important to you :)) Hope to see you!

And to keep you till tomorrow, here are some pics from our Saturday meeting last week-great quilt backdrop, huh?

Butterick 6719-still available digitally from Something Delightful

Vogue 1808-still available in paper from Something Delightful!

Just a Pinch, modified/Cutting Line Designs and a quilt project for a meeting at a quilt store (we were at Quilter’s Haven)

Jalie Drop Pocket Cardigan and Greenstyle Joggers

It’s Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven season!

Copy RTW (right), final (center) muslin (left)

Serger Class starts next week AND June GSG

Our next Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts next Thursday, June 30 at 10 am at First Sewing, 494 and Penn! The class continues July 7 and 21. Go to “Classes at First Sewing” in the menu bar to register.

June Garment Sewing Group:

Debbie’s Garments:

**Navy Jacket, Burda 6760, View C, Silk Matka and Rayon Crepe Lining**

1. This is an unlined jacket so my first step was to draft lining pattern pieces. The sleeves are underlined. Also a dart in the sleeve creates a 2 piece look which I like. It eliminates a lot of bulk.

2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment but did not shorten length because it is a cropped style.

3. Due to the texture of the main fabric I only interfaced the under collar.

4. Also due to the texture of the fabric I did not top stitch.

5. This pattern is from 2015. It was a fun make and I also decreased my pattern collection.

**Coral with Navy Dot Classic Blouse, NewLook 6698, View B, Cotton Sateen**

1. As always I did my petite adjustments but did not shorten the hem length – this is a crop length shirt.

2. The pattern envelope gives yardage for a skirt. There is no skirt in this pattern – maybe a typing error. That should have been my first clue that the pattern had some flaws.

3. The neckband is too short for neck and the directions for collar insertion are poor.

4. The only feature different from my TNT blouse pattern is the “cuff”.

Navy Gingham Pants, Burda 7062, Gingham with Bemberg lining, see photo above

1. This pattern is from 2013 and has been updated in the catalog.

2. I eliminated the side slits and added a lining.

3. This is a TNT for me and it will stay in pattern collection.

Coral “Scraps” Blouse

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and removed 2 inches from the length. I also softened the shirt tail hem and removed length from there as well. The designer is tall!

2. I raised the v-neck 1 inch.

3. I changed construction steps because I wanted to have the neck band on the rs of the blouse. I used the shorten/lengthen line to determine the the length of back top and bottom.

4. I chose this pattern because of the lantern sleeve. I am not fan of v-neck blouses but I thought I would give it a try anyway.

5. It was a fun make even though the construction techniques are kind of putsy and 1/2 seam allowances are used – WHY?!

Kristin’s Garments:

**Summer Jacket/The Fold London, Vogue 1648, Stretch woven blend**

1. Pattern includes lining but didn’t want to lose the stretch of fabric so just used facings.

2. Very large pleat in back was topstitched through all layers-directions had it hanging loose-I wanted a bit more of a “yoke line” to copy garment.

3. Center front overlap was eliminated so no closure. Corners at collar were rounded.

4. This pattern was previously made in fleece. Fits surprisingly well (no forward shoulder needed, bust dart in proper place, sleeve is great.

Brick Summer Pants, Vanessa Fluid Pants/Jalie Patterns, Silk blend fabric? See photo below

1. Added 3” to length-omitted cuff.

2. Darts are extended 2” for a lower seat 🙂

3. Waist band is made into one continuous strip eliminating seams and tie.

4. Great pants pattern-TNT!

**Woven Summer Blouse, Harmony Blouse/Love Notions, Rayon challis and Jalie Vanessa Pants**

1. Made to pattern as the hip area is already wider.

2. Neck binding is supposed to be turned all the way under, I like wrapping the serged edge.

3. Center back seam has waist shaping but the opening isn’t necessary to get blouse on. I just sewed the button on permanently.

4. Several sleeve variations. Great summer woven tee with a dart.

5. Great fit for my body!

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck

**Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Tomato rayon knit vee neck**

1. Shortened length 2”.

2. Both necklines are great depthwise. Vee is quite pointed and the rayon fabric didn’t help. Pattern also includes a scoop neck and all sleeve length variations.

3. Definitely a TNT!

July 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, July 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, July 13, 10:30 Lakes Makerie, Mpls

Thursday, July 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap 🙂

May Garments

Squeaking in on the last day of May…for June meeting dates and locations, please scroll to end of post-

Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

**Navy/Teal Tie Knit Dress, New Look 6650, Cotton jersey**

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the hem length by 2 inches – whoops – it feels a little too short.

2. I did a serged “bias” neck finish instead of turning under neck edge twice and topstitching as pattern directs. I also eliminated the side slit.

3. Fun, easy make that can be casual or dressy, depending on fabric choice.

**Navy Stripe Dolman Tee, Jalie 3352, Rayon jersey**

1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as shortening hem length.

2. I added a neckband rather than folding neck edge to ws and top stitching. Also added cuffs to again avoid turning hem to inside and topstitching.

3. This is a TNT pattern for me. I like how it fits, there are several looks and it is a great scrap buster.

**Navy Print Quilted Cardigan, New Look 6351 hack, Liberty of London with cotton flannel batting, rayon crepe lining**

1. I tried to copy a RTW garment and did fairly well except I wish I would have used very light batting instead of flannel. It is not as soft as RTW garment.

2. Besides my standard petite adjustments I straightened the CF so the fronts meet, not overlap.

3. For construction: stitch side fronts to fronts for main fabric, batting and lining. Follow same procedure for CB seam. Quilt front, back and sleeves using walking foot and 1/2 vertical rows at 3.0 stitch length. Jacket is then serged together.

4. I added a contrast band for CF and hemmed sleeves and bottom with bias strip bands.

5. The RTW version added buttons and buttonholes – I did not.

6. It was a good project to work on during our cold spring but I am done with quilting for a long time now!

Coral Side Button Tee, Simplicity 9229 hack to copy Love Notions Lincoln Top, Cotton modal

1. To redesign the pattern I eliminated the side seam and made the back and wedge one piece allowing for sa and placket folds. Later I added a placket to button edge because my math was incorrect! A two inch length of fabric was pressed wst and serged to rst of shirt back side seam.

2. On the side fronts I added 1 inch plus sa for button hole placket. The placket edges were clean finished, pressed to ws and top stitched.

3. The back hem is longer by one inch.

4. I did make buttonholes but really not necessary.

5. This became more of a chore than I planned on and I realize now I should have just bought the Love Notions pattern!

Kristin’s Garments

Woven Tee, Coram Top/Allie Olson, Rayon woven

1. Quick to sew with raglan sleeves. Bust dart is a plus.

2. As with most popular patterns of this type, the neck is on the larger end of spectrum.

3. I took it in 3/8” along shoulder dart and through sleeve as it seemed a bit low under arms also.

4. Neck band also seemed long but bias binding can stretch when pressed so follow pattern directions and adjust as needed.

**Summer Dress, Sandra Betzina Vogue 1530 OOP View A, Scuba knit/wool knit**

1. Eliminated center back seam. Added back darts.

2. Eliminated skirt lining because scuba hung nicely without. Turned under underarms and stitched to make up for lack of lining.

3. Like the fit and the way it went together.

4. Omitted the trim down the side seams as wool knit was thick.

5. Disappointed with fusible interfacing results around decorative neck hole. Glued too well.

6. Hole in front yoke fussy but a fun detail.

**Willow Wrap Dress/Love Notions, Rayon knit**

1. Made the first version in a medium and that was too small so tried XL and that was much better except bust was big so took shaping out of front bust area.

2. Tried elastic trim for neckline (floral version) and band per pattern (solid version).

3. Lots of options-higher neckline and lower (solid knit was in between), pleated front and plain front, 3 sleeve lengths and a children’s version (separate purchase).

June 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday, June 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

Saturday, June 11, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

January Fashion Sewing Club Photos

Even though Old Man Winter tried to keep people away, there was lots of show and tell and a pretty impressive group of people attended our three meetings in January.

We are trying a few new things with the start of the new year. At our Hancock Southtown meetings we are including some hands on demonstrations each month to add an educational element and give attendees a chance to try out the techniques that we find useful. This month we demonstrated several knit techniques.

At Treadle we are choosing a pattern of the month and encouraging anyone to try the pattern themselves and bring the garment to show. To sweeten the deal we will be drawing for a $15 gift certificate from those who sew the pattern of the month. The goal is to see one pattern in a variety of fabrics and on a variety of bodies.

Can This Garment Be Saved? is a new idea to help get those finished-but-never-worn garments out into the light. Show us how you alter/change a garment to make it wearable. Debbie restyled an oversized Nordic ski sweater in December into a perfect warm, fitted sweater. If you are stumped, bring the garment and get ideas from the group!

Here is the calendar for the remainder of the month and pictures from Show and Tell. January Club sheets and garment photos can be found by clicking the tab above.
First Sewing, Bloomington Hancock Fabrics
Jean Jacket Sew Along/Sewing Studio, Thursdays, January 8, 15, 22 and 29, 1:00-4:00
Sew-Serge-Fit, Thursdays, January 15, 22, 29, 10:00-12:00 or 6:00-8:00
After School Kids Sewing, Thursdays, January 15 and 29, 4:30-6:00

Special note about February Club Dates:
Saturday, February 7, 10:30 at Treadle – this is a change from usually meeting the second Saturday of the month.
Tuesday, February 10, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, February 12, 10:30 or 6:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington Hancock Fabrics

Chanhassen Vacuum Center
Kids’ Sewing, Monday, January 26, 10:30-12:30, 1-3

Treadle's beautiful wool knit Linda Lee's Chicago Jacket — Treadle’s beautiful wool knit
Linda Lee’s Chicago Jacket

Treadle's Active Wear Knit Jalie pattern — Treadle’s Active Wear Knit
Jalie pattern

Loro Plano fabric from SR Harris Walden Jacket from Collette Lots of love and hard work from Mom — Loro Plano fabric from SR Harris
Walden Jacket from Collette
Lots of love and hard work from Mom

JAY -lee, Jolly, how do you say Jalie?

The first Jalie pattern I made was the woman’s Twist Top, and although I liked the fit of the top I wasn’t a fan of the format of their instructions. Instructions are printed together with all construction pictures grouped together – not integrated into the text – and I won’t mention the small the type face… But in the end, the top was fairly easy to put together, the style is feminine and flattering. I’ve made two so far.

Last month I made the Scarf-Collar Top. I was able to put this top together in a couple of hours – and I quickly had a comfortable, fashionable top to wear to work. Jalie has an interesting method for sewing the scarf onto the neck line so that there are no exposed seams. Jalie hit the mark again – another fashionable, feminine, well fitting, easy top! (P.S. please excuse the wrinkles in my picture – my photo assistant wasn’t doing his job ; ) )

Posted by Carrie Diamont

	AnnaBlue on May Garment Sewing Group …
	Patricia Ericson on May Inspiration at First …
	Caity on Meeting Saturday at Tread…
	Kristin on Meeting Saturday at Tread…
	Caity on Meeting Saturday at Tread…

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