Wednesday, 10/12, Ginny’s in Rochester will be our host-she has great new fabric and extra discounts on wool to boot! That’s Wednesday, October 12 at 10:30 am. Ginny’s address is 211 Broadway Av. S., Rochester. Bring a folding chair if sitting is important to you :)) Hope to see you!
And to keep you till tomorrow, here are some pics from our Saturday meeting last week-great quilt backdrop, huh?
Whirlwind fall, anyone!? Beautiful weather and back to school has made the days fly by and we are looking at October meetings next week! Our Saturday group has turned up the volume and asked us to rotate their meetings so they see all the wonderful stores that the area has to offer too. We’re adding a new store this month-Quilter’s Haven. They carry some great Stoff knits, indie patterns, notions and more!
October 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, October 6, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, October 8, 10:30, Quilter’s Haven, 2930 146th St., Rosemount
Wednesday, October 12, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
1. This is my second tee from this pattern. I really like the boat neck and wanted to try the bishop sleeves.
2. Did not petite between shoulder and bust but did take in the back neckline with 1/8” darts on pattern piece before cutting fabric.
3. The pattern instructs zigzagging over thread elastic to gather sleeve before adding the cuffs. I found it much easier and a better look using my serger to gather. Placing the differential feed on 2 and the stitch length to 4 is an easy way to gather.
1. Jalie’s bodice pattern creates a lining for the front which can get heavy. The Olympia front bodice has a cut on facing to create the same look as the Jalie and is much lighter – my preference.
2. The front has a upper bodice and lower skirt. The back is one piece.
3. I did raise the center front neckline one inch.
4. Once I determined how to combine the two patterns it was an easy and quick make.
1. I did not need to petite this top but I did cut down the cowl height by 6 inches. Next time I may use one layer of fabric for the cowl.
2. I also added side slits and a ribbed band.
3. I am not sure about the placement of the long cuff. I may be shortening that cuff some day.
1. This is an old pattern and the maker has a quilting background so 1/2” seam allowances!
2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, shortened the hem and sleeve lengths.
3. Again an old pattern so I did some construction changes: increased the hood width to create a band, added side seam pockets, added 2” to center front to create a fold over facing. I bagged the lining – the pattern instructs you to place ws of lining to ws of jacket and then stitch side and under arm sleeves. The lining is caught in the hems as you fold them up to stitch – What???
4. This was a bit of a challenge but it meets a need and I was able to make use of my pattern stash.
Looking for a shirt pattern that’s easy fit, a bit out of ordinary, I compared Now and Zen Shirt from Sewing Workshop, Anything But Ordinary and At Every Angle. At Every Angle won because it had the highest sleeve cap, narrow sleeves, less dropped shoulder and higher underarm.
1. The pattern is designed to be cut out in separate pieces-one left front, one right front, etc. so I cut out the XS in the shorter pieces and made to pattern.
2. As is Louise Cutting, all went together well, nice hems, funky collar, narrow sleeves.
3. Perhaps the extra small was a bit over confident-sleeves too short, neck a bit small, body too short, sleeves a bit tight. But I like the look of it (maybe it’s the samurai!)
So I made a tank to wear under the shirt-really like the samurai!
1. I love this tank-still need to widen at hip one size but armholes, neckline and bust dart, deep hem nail it as a TNT.
Barry Woven Pant-StyleArc Patterns
1. Same pattern as last month but a warmer version and added 2” to length.
2. Used silky cotton for pocket facing to keep things slimmer. Still love the pants!
Now to try the next size up (small) and use the other pattern pieces!
1. Body gets a big boost-about 4”. Sleeve gets longer but not a lot wider. Quite an improvement. But now it just looks blah-maybe I need to try in a fabric with more drape?
Vanessa Woven Pants-Jalie Patterns
1. Favorite pattern but looking out for a wide leg pant to be a bit more on trend…
1. Have wanted to try this pattern for the collar/neckline. Usual Burda directions-wait, when did you tell me to sew the side seams??
2. Putsy technique for adding the yoke and facing at the same time-wouldn’t want to show the inside version.
3. Fit is great-through shoulders, etc. Could have added more at hip. Not in love yet 🙂
Oh. My. Goodness! Thursday and Saturday were such great meetings-can’t wait to see what tomorrow at Sewing Lounge brings! And Maggy has worked really hard to find chairs and a comfortable arrangement for all of us.
I know, it’s September already-trying to catch up…
September 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, September 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester
Wednesday, September 14, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
And here’s what we sewed in August—-
Did not petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten length on front, back and sleeves by 2 inches.
This was a fun, easy and quick make. I am fan of Love Notions patterns. I appreciate all the options for sleeves, necklines and lengths offered. The bust darts help in shaping and the dress can easily slip over your head but a zipper closure is optional.
I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.
The under collar is the only pattern piece interfaced due to the fabric texture.
I changed the order of construction and added petersham ribbon to inside collar for a clean finish instead of slip stitching.
I did not enjoy working with this fabric – too shifty.
The jacket end product isn’t what I had in my mind for a go to jean jacket. I think my choice of fabric had a lot to do with the end result.
This is my favorite classic shirt pattern. If you can not find this particular pattern on line try a similar pattern from Cashmerette, Love Notions, Sewaholic, Grainline or the big four.
I raised the front neckline one inch and used a neckband to finish neck edge.
I left the hem length for front as is but shortened back length by 2 inches.
This tee will be perfect for end of summer evenings and it decreased my fabric stash a bit – always a good thing.
Made a size 16 top and skirt. Size was perfect.
Cut 2” off of bottom edge of bodice to raise waist. Helped a lot!
Great fit through bust and shoulders.
1. Added 5” to skirt and raised waist on bodice 1.5”. Needed to piece the center fronts but like the result.
2. Pattern well written. Used rayon for muslin and skirt draped more than it did with the linen.
3. Made size 14.
Pattern instructions from Stylearc seem to be getting better! Pants easy to put together.
Very much the “lantern pant” I’ve been looking for!
Squeaking in on the last day of May…for June meeting dates and locations, please scroll to end of post-
Garment Sewing Group
1. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the hem length by 2 inches – whoops – it feels a little too short.
2. I did a serged “bias” neck finish instead of turning under neck edge twice and topstitching as pattern directs. I also eliminated the side slit.
3. Fun, easy make that can be casual or dressy, depending on fabric choice.
1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as shortening hem length.
2. I added a neckband rather than folding neck edge to ws and top stitching. Also added cuffs to again avoid turning hem to inside and topstitching.
3. This is a TNT pattern for me. I like how it fits, there are several looks and it is a great scrap buster.
1. I tried to copy a RTW garment and did fairly well except I wish I would have used very light batting instead of flannel. It is not as soft as RTW garment.
2. Besides my standard petite adjustments I straightened the CF so the fronts meet, not overlap.
3. For construction: stitch side fronts to fronts for main fabric, batting and lining. Follow same procedure for CB seam. Quilt front, back and sleeves using walking foot and 1/2 vertical rows at 3.0 stitch length. Jacket is then serged together.
4. I added a contrast band for CF and hemmed sleeves and bottom with bias strip bands.
5. The RTW version added buttons and buttonholes – I did not.
6. It was a good project to work on during our cold spring but I am done with quilting for a long time now!
1. To redesign the pattern I eliminated the side seam and made the back and wedge one piece allowing for sa and placket folds. Later I added a placket to button edge because my math was incorrect! A two inch length of fabric was pressed wst and serged to rst of shirt back side seam.
2. On the side fronts I added 1 inch plus sa for button hole placket. The placket edges were clean finished, pressed to ws and top stitched.
3. The back hem is longer by one inch.
4. I did make buttonholes but really not necessary.
5. This became more of a chore than I planned on and I realize now I should have just bought the Love Notions pattern!
1. Quick to sew with raglan sleeves. Bust dart is a plus.
2. As with most popular patterns of this type, the neck is on the larger end of spectrum.
3. I took it in 3/8” along shoulder dart and through sleeve as it seemed a bit low under arms also.
4. Neck band also seemed long but bias binding can stretch when pressed so follow pattern directions and adjust as needed.
1. Eliminated center back seam. Added back darts.
2. Eliminated skirt lining because scuba hung nicely without. Turned under underarms and stitched to make up for lack of lining.
3. Like the fit and the way it went together.
4. Omitted the trim down the side seams as wool knit was thick.
5. Disappointed with fusible interfacing results around decorative neck hole. Glued too well.
6. Hole in front yoke fussy but a fun detail.
1. Made the first version in a medium and that was too small so tried XL and that was much better except bust was big so took shaping out of front bust area.
2. Tried elastic trim for neckline (floral version) and band per pattern (solid version).
3. Lots of options-higher neckline and lower (solid knit was in between), pleated front and plain front, 3 sleeve lengths and a children’s version (separate purchase).
June 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, June 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Thursday, June 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, June 11, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!
Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…
Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt
Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt
1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.
2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.
3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .
This make was a little slow but well worth it.
New Look 6735, View A
Luxury Plush Rib Knit
1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.
2. This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.
3. I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.
Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.
Two Stash Buster Tees:
Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical Tee
Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit
1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.
Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top
Jalie Dolman Top 3352
1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.
I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.
2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.
Fall Trend: Sweater Vest
Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck
Sweater knit with fleece backing
1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!
2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.
3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.
4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!
Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse
1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.
2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.
3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.
4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven
Bulky cotton sweater knit
1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck
2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.
3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.
3. Constructed per pattern.
4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.
One Thing Led to Another
Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan
Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above
1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.
2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!
Funnel Neck Dress
1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.
2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.
3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.
November Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul