September Inspiration

Oh. My. Goodness! Thursday and Saturday were such great meetings-can’t wait to see what tomorrow at Sewing Lounge brings! And Maggy has worked really hard to find chairs and a comfortable arrangement for all of us.

Let’s get to some photos!

Cielo Dress/Closet Core minus the bottom part of the sleeve
Style Sew Me
Simplicity 8988
Fit for Art Carpe Diem Dress
Www.dressagirlaroundtheworld.com
Olympia Dress/Love Notions
Huron Top and Saltmarsh Skirt/Merchant & Mills
Crane Street Tee/Sewing Workshop
Butterick Jacket
Hong Kong Vest/Sewing Workshop
Inspiration for jacket above from Japanese Textile Exhibit
Great use of a great border print
Self drafted cape with feather trim
Reversible vintage tablecloth Chicago Jacket/Sewing Workshop
The reverse of jacket above

More Photos from August

After going through these photos, I just can’t wait to see what everyone brings for September. Pat yourselves on the back-you rock the sewing world!!!

See you this Thursday (First Sewing), Saturday (Ginny’s) or next Wednesday (Sewing Lounge). Or maybe all three days!!

Simplicity wide leg pant with personal slopes
Bonn Shirt from Itch to Stitch
Frankie from Sewing Workshop
Silhouette Patterns 575 with some great modifications
OOP Vogue
By Popular Demand/Cutting Line Designs and Pietra Pant/Closet Core
Great print in Gallery Shirt/Liesl Patterns
KwikSew 3555 and Free Range Slacks/Sew House 7
Little girl’s Dolce Dress/Love Notions
Blouse from Tauko Magazine
Just too much fun!!

August Garment Sewing Photos

I know, it’s September already-trying to catch up…

September 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, September 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester

Wednesday, September 14, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

And here’s what we sewed in August—-

Debbie’s Garments: 

Cadence Dress-Love Notions-Japanese cotton
  1. Did not petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten length on front, back and sleeves by 2 inches.
  2. This was a fun, easy and quick make. I am fan of Love Notions patterns. I appreciate all the options for sleeves, necklines and lengths offered. The bust darts help in shaping and the dress can easily slip over your head but a zipper closure is optional.
Butterick 5616-Linen
  1. I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.
  2. The under collar is the only pattern piece interfaced due to the fabric texture.
  3. I changed the order of construction and added petersham ribbon to inside collar for a clean finish instead of slip stitching.
  4. I did not enjoy working with this fabric  – too shifty.
  5. The jacket  end product isn’t what I had in my mind for a go to jean jacket. I think my choice of fabric had a lot to do with the end result.
KwikSew 3555-Italian cotton
  1. This is my favorite classic shirt pattern. If you can not find this particular pattern on line try a similar pattern from Cashmerette, Love Notions, Sewaholic, Grainline or the big four.
Jalie Dolman Top-French Terry and cotton interlock
  1. I raised the front neckline one inch and used a neckband to finish neck edge. 
  2. I left the hem length for front as is but shortened back length by 2 inches.
  3. This tee will be perfect for end of summer evenings and it decreased my fabric stash a bit – always a good thing.

Kristin’s Garments: 

Simplicity 9136-linen floral and rayon stripe
  1. Made a size 16 top and skirt. Size was perfect. 
  2. Cut 2” off of bottom edge of bodice to raise waist. Helped a lot! 
  3. Great fit through bust and shoulders.
New Look 6607-linen

1. Added 5” to skirt and raised waist on bodice 1.5”. Needed to piece the center fronts but like the result.

2. Pattern well written. Used rayon for muslin and skirt draped more than it did with the linen.

3. Made size 14.

Barry Woven Pant-Stylearc-linen
  1. Pattern instructions from Stylearc seem to be getting better! Pants easy to put together.
  2. Very much the “lantern pant” I’ve been looking for!
  3. Eliminated the “ruffle” at top of waist band.

May Garments

Squeaking in on the last day of May…for June meeting dates and locations, please scroll to end of post-

Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy/Teal Tie Knit Dress, New Look 6650, Cotton jersey

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the hem length by 2 inches – whoops – it feels a little too short.

2. I did a serged “bias” neck finish instead of turning under neck edge twice and topstitching as pattern directs. I also eliminated the side slit.

3. Fun, easy make that can be casual or dressy, depending on fabric choice.

Navy Stripe Dolman Tee, Jalie 3352, Rayon jersey

1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as shortening hem length.

2. I added a neckband rather than folding neck edge to ws and top stitching. Also added cuffs to again avoid turning hem to inside and topstitching.

3. This is a TNT pattern for me. I like how it fits, there are several looks and it is a great scrap buster.

Navy Print Quilted Cardigan, New Look 6351 hack, Liberty of London with cotton flannel batting, rayon crepe lining

1. I tried to copy a RTW garment and did fairly well except I wish I would have used very light batting instead of flannel. It is not as soft as RTW garment.

2. Besides my standard petite adjustments I straightened the CF so the fronts meet, not overlap.

3. For construction: stitch side fronts to fronts for main fabric, batting and lining. Follow same procedure for CB seam. Quilt front, back and sleeves using walking foot and 1/2 vertical rows at 3.0 stitch length.  Jacket is then serged together.

4. I added a contrast band for CF and hemmed sleeves and bottom with bias strip bands.

5. The RTW version added buttons and buttonholes – I did not.

6. It was a good project to work on during our cold spring but I am done with quilting for a long time now!

Coral Side Button Tee, Simplicity 9229 hack to copy Love Notions Lincoln Top, Cotton modal

1. To redesign the pattern I eliminated the side seam and made the back and wedge one piece allowing for sa and placket folds. Later I added a placket to button edge because my math was incorrect! A two inch length of fabric was pressed wst and serged to rst of shirt back side seam.

2. On the side fronts I added 1 inch plus sa for button hole placket.  The placket edges were clean finished, pressed to ws and top stitched.

3. The back hem is longer by one inch.

4. I did make buttonholes but really not necessary.

5. This became more of a chore than I planned on and I realize now I should have just bought the Love Notions pattern! 

Kristin’s Garments

Woven Tee, Coram Top/Allie Olson, Rayon woven
Debbie’s Coram in cotton shirting

1. Quick to sew with raglan sleeves. Bust dart is a plus.

2. As with most popular patterns of this type, the neck is on the larger end of spectrum.

3. I took it in 3/8” along shoulder dart and through sleeve as it seemed a bit low under arms also.

4. Neck band also seemed long but bias binding can stretch when pressed so follow pattern directions and adjust as needed.

Summer Dress, Sandra Betzina Vogue 1530 OOP View A, Scuba knit/wool knit

1. Eliminated center back seam. Added back darts.

2. Eliminated skirt lining because scuba hung nicely without. Turned under underarms and stitched to make up for lack of lining.

3. Like the fit and the way it went together.

4. Omitted the trim down the side seams as wool knit was thick.

5. Disappointed with fusible interfacing results around decorative neck hole. Glued too well.

6. Hole in front yoke fussy but a fun detail.

Willow Wrap Dress/Love Notions, Rayon knit

1. Made the first version in a medium and that was too small so tried XL and that was much better except bust was big so took shaping out of front bust area.

2. Tried elastic trim for neckline (floral version) and band per pattern (solid version).

3. Lots of options-higher neckline and lower (solid knit was in between), pleated front and plain front, 3 sleeve lengths and a children’s version (separate purchase).

June 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday, June 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

Saturday, June 11, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

October Garment Sewing Group

First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!

Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…

Debbie’s Garments:

Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt

Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt

1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.

2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.

3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .

This make was a little slow but well worth it.

Teal/Green Cardigan

New Look 6735, View A

Luxury Plush Rib Knit

1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.

2.  This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.

3.  I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.

Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.

Two Stash Buster Tees:

Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical  Tee

McCalls 7247

Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit

1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.

Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top

Jalie Dolman Top 3352

French Terry

1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.

     I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.

2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.

Kristin’s Garments:

Fall Trend: Sweater Vest

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck

Sweater knit with fleece backing

1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!

2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.

3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.

4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!

Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse

Simplicity 9231

Rayon woven

1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.

2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.

3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.

4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.

Sweater Vest

Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven

Bulky cotton sweater knit

1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck

2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.

3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.

3. Constructed per pattern.

4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.

One Thing Led to Another

Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan

Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above

1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.

2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!

Funnel Neck Dress

Burda 6080

Ponte stripe

1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.

2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.

3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.

November Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

October Garment Sewing Group Starts Saturday

The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!

So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am

Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com

Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!

A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!