May Garment Sewing Group Final

A few photos from the Saturday meeting at Quilter’s Haven-

Silhouette Patterns #575 hacked into a biking shirt
Summer dress-McCalls 5668
Simplicity 8061

And Debbie and Kristin’s garments-

Debbie’s Garments:

Shirt Dress

Simplicity 8014, View D, chambray

1. The only fitting adjustment needed was narrow shoulder. Unfortunately I cut the dress length too short – need to wear it with leggings.

2. I added a lining to the back yoke and used the burrito method to construct.

3. This was a fun make. The pattern offers several choices for length, sleeves and bodice. The Chambray fabric was easy to work with.

Itch to Stitch Medellin Top, cotton interlock and Love Notions Duet Trousers, stretch denim

1. IS patterns work well for me generally. I did not do any petite adjustments. Since I eliminated the bottom band I increased the body length pattern pieces by one inch.

2. The directions call for clear elastic for the shirring on side. I found that the gather stitches alone worked well so I did not use the elastic.

3. The pattern instructions are clear and concise and the fabric was great to work with.

Love Notions Duet Trousers, Stretch Denim

1. This is my second try at this pattern. The fabric choice makes a difference in sizing. The stretch denim I used was poor quality and shrunk 4 inches when I washed it. Live and Learn!

2. I eliminated the front pockets due to lack of fabric. I used the curvy waistband pattern piece instead of the straight piece.

3. The pattern can be used for stretch woven and stable knits.

4. I am not thrilled with this make. I will try a stable knit next time and then move on.

Itch to Stitch Galicia Top, cotton poplin
Button back

1. I petited the pattern between shoulder and bust and shortened the length by 2 inches.

2. The pattern has great construction techniques. There is an option for vertical darts which I chose to do. I also shortened the width of the cuff.

3. The pattern is a little out of my comfort zone but I am glad I gave it a try. I think it would be a fun special occasion top.

Kristin’s Garments

Burda 6114 Jacket, fleece and scuba knit and Ravinia Skirt, Love Notions in cotton interlock (version 1)

Jacket, Burda 6114

1. Made size 16/18 at hip. Sizing seemed great.

2. Folded 3/4” out of collar lengthwise. Collar is taller in front, probably would change that in future jackets as it just stands up and doesn’t seem to want to lay in a “collarly” fashion. Didn’t interface.

3. Pockets according to pattern were just a passing thought-instead cut 6×9” rectangles and 3 layers so that anywhere the pocket showed would be my knit print. Pockets went from seam to seam and were topstitched through outer fabric across the top. Very happy with them.

4. Changed up zipper installation-folded collar and hem over zip, stitched and turned right side out. Very important (I think): handbasted from pocket top up and down to ensure all meeting points were happy.

5. Left sleeve hems very deep (sleeves were 2”+ too long) so white wrong side of scuba doesn’t show.

Midi Length Knit SkirtRavinia Skirt/Love NotionsCotton knit

1. Oh, my, how could I have been so blind!! I had traveled down the Instagram/email rabbit hole and saw this pattern which matched a picture I had cut out of a catalog numerous times!! How could I have missed the photos of the test garments?

2. But the skirt was already cut out so sew it I must. It isn’t so bad-I knew it was an a-line skirt and that the waist band had negative ease (5-7”) but I didn’t understand that the waist edge of the skirt also had the same negative ease. I was hoping for a few tucks and pleats as the waistband was stretched to meet the skirt. Nope-I had to stretch the skirt to fit the waistband that I cut out two sizes larger to accommodate the fact that my waist was larger than the pattern measurements (not a problem if the skirt is gathered into the negative ease waistband!)

3. The gathered pocket went in well and to be fair there are some funny puckers in my inspiration picture where gathers go all the way to waist.

4. I added 4” to the calf length of the skirt. A narrow elastic is applied to the top waistband seam for extra security.

5. If I make this again, I will get rid of the A-line and add fabric at waist so it has gathers all around 🙂

6. So I went home Wednesday night and made another skirt, this time using the full 60” width of the fabric as my skirt and applying the pockets and gathering the 60” to the negative ease waistband. Now that’s what I had in mind!!

Ravinia Skirt, Version 1-hem width 100” plus Version 2 (being worn)-gathers at waist and 60” hem width
Pleat Detail Dress and Top/Maker’s Atelier, cotton lawn

1. Made size medium to pattern except for a few construction changes.

2. Seam allowances are 3/8” which makes it a little trickier to serge seam allowances and sew seams but I wanted a nice flat press.

3. Pattern instructions assume you will do things and doesn’t tell you to-understitching facing, finishing facing edges, pleats should have been basted to make pressing easier, etc.

4. There’s a tiny slit in sleeve opening (cuff edge) that may be to allow for more ease but it’s pretty small and not shown on pattern.

Vogue 8616 (OOP) in activewear fleece
Burda 6367 in activewear fleece

1. Both are patterns I’ve made before. The Vogue pattern was quite recent-this time I cut off the folded facing and banded the whole opening. Much better and less fussy than the folded facing.

2. The Burda pattern always feels like home to me-shoulders are a bit dropped but not too much. The whole thing feels like a cozy sweatshirt that wears a bit more like a long sleeve tee.

Wool Sweater

Karine Jalie #4242 in wool knit

1. Had to try this pattern again in something a bit more basic than the other patch work one. Still like it. No changes. Goes together well.

June Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, June 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, June 10, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, June 14, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Last of April Photos

This is the Lakes Makerie owner’s daughter in Burnside Bibs from Sew House Seven. Several of us bit hard and bought the pattern (I have the fabric in my stash-still some in the store when we were there. We left a few patterns at the store for you to buy or it is now on sale and they have some fun free extensions for the pattern. Hmmm…might have to get busy 🙂

Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs
Metra Blazer/Love Notions in knit
Self drafted pattern using scraps
#2 same as above
Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Fun back detail on Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Mini Marcel/Chalk and Notch
Simplicity 1318
Ashton/Helen’s Closet
Vogue 1277/multiple fabrics and stitching
McCalls 7061
OOP KwikSew with self drafted cuff
Helen’s Closet Moss Jacket
Fringe Dress/Chalk and Notch (there’s a mini version also)
Trio Shirt/Sewing Workshop and Burda 7400 pant
Great warm weather top/can’t remember pattern #
Stanton Tee/Cashmerette
Blanca Flight Suit/Closet Core
In case you need a new tool! Rave reviews!

Meeting Saturday at Treadle

Last chance for March Garment Sewing Group today at Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30 am.

Here are photos from our meeting on Thursday at First Sewing-

Butterick 6802 in linen minus 10” in length and longer sleeves
All the dots matched along the pleat!!
Now Jacket as modified in Sewing Workshop Club-pinwale cord, E-tee and Helix pant-all Sewing Workshop patterns
Japanese pattern in cable knit
Adaptation of Tremont Jacket
Burda 6990
I Spy quilt/Happy grandma 🙂
Simplicity 9275 in knit
Katherine Tilton blouse in lightweight wool
Burda 6463 as vest in wool
Vogue 1899
Liesl & Co Verdun Woven T-shirt

Wednesday at Lakes Makerie

Yesterday was our first March meeting-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, March 9 and at Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. Here’s what we saw at Lakes-

Stacker Jacket by Papercut Patterns in corduroy
Stacker Jacket, back view
New Look 6659 in denim
Sew House Seven Albert Street Skirt in stretch twill available at Lakes
Versatile Top and Pants from Tauko #5
Soho Coat from Sewing Workshop in wool
Chateau Coat from Sewing Workshop in double sided wool
Remy Top from Sew House Seven with free sleeve extension
Latest and greatest men’s shirt!
Cuff detail
Collar detail
Beautiful handwork

Your February Makes

Vests based on Tremont Jacket from Sewing Workshop
Vintage Shirt with tower placket
Talvikki Sweater/Named in double sided fleece
Attitude Pullover/Peekaboo Patterns
Neighborhood Hoodie/Liesl & Co. and Girl’s Dress/McCalls 6915
Carole’s sketches are always fun to see!
Self drafted sari skirt
Opal Coat/Paprika Patterns and Pants/KwikSew 3115
Logan Shacket/StyleArc in corduroy
Gallery Tunic/Liesl & Co
Hayward Tunic/StyleArc
Vest/Simplicity 1506
Vest/Butterick 6328 and Dress/New Look 6428-all the way from Texas!
A Way With Stripes/Simplicity 8556
Clare Coat/Closet Core
Elle Shirt With Mixit Top/Sewing Workshop in wool
Ikina Jacket 2/Sewing Workshop
What to do with a remnant of silk? Shoulder seams and buttons!

What will you be sewing for March-that in between, “I don’t really want to sew more wool but it’s still COLD” month!!

Wednesday Photos

Here are pics from yesterday-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, and then at Sewing Lounge on Saturday. Great sewing!!

Madrid Top/Sewing Workshop adapted to knits and no front closure-knit from Sewing Lounge
Sew House Seven in yummy bamboo fleece from Sewing Lounge
Art Gallery knits inButterick 6633
Renee Pant/Jalie in preteen size (long legs 🙂
Roxy from Stylearc in wool from Sewing Lounge
Marley Shirt/Stylearc
Vogue 9347 Blouse adapted to jacket
Vintage men’s shirt pattern in double fleece
Beautiful wool/silk self drafted to use every thread 🙂
Eureka/Sewing Workshop in soft knit for the perfect vest
KwikSew 2896-made for Valentine’s Day-jacket
Anything But Ordinary/Cutting Line Designs and lined!
Jarrah Top/Megan Nielsen in textured knit from Quilter’s Haven
The other Jarrah Top in waffle knit from Quilter’s Haven
Ebony Tunic/Closet Core-gray knit from Quilter’s Haven

Last of January Photos

I hope you are in the sunshine somewhere-it’s beautiful!! Speaking of beautiful-here are the remaining sew and tell pics. Another great month of sewing!

Lisette 6296
Simplicity 9291 Gertie pattern
Shucks, I didn’t write down the wrap sweater pattern! Can anyone help me out?
Sapporo Coat/now Nova Coat from Papercut Patterns
Vogue 1784
OOP coat pattern
Historically correct doll bodice
Daughter/mother duo in The Blouse by Avid Seamstress (daughter) and Estelle Ponte Jacket by Stylearc (mother)
Madden Skirt by Tessuti Patterns
Tremont Jacket/Vest by The Sewing Workshop X 2
Nancy’s Blouse by Silhouette Patterns in rayon batik
McCalls 7874 from two old sweatshirts!
Vogue 8854
Wool Coat-Logan Shacket by Stylearc
Copied ready-to-wear/still making modifications

Happy sewing for February!!

Lots to See on Saturday

Great turnout in Lakes Makerie’s new classroom! Sunny, wood floors and bright yellow chairs-snow didn’t seem quite so overwhelming.

We’ll be at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul on Wednesday and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, both start at 10:30.

Sandra Betzina wool coat
Warm lining
Elastic Tie Sweater
Jalie 2682
Remy from Grainline Studio with free sleeve extension
Vogue 8924
Vintage shirt in plaid wool

Garment Sewing Group December 2022

Merriest wishes and happy New Year to all of you wonderfully creative and fun people!! Here are the garments Debbie and I made in December along with commentary.

Classes are finished for the year and we will have a new calendar out at some point for 2023. Garment Sewing Group dates are at end of post.

Debbie’s Garments:

Kwik Sew 4191, View B without facing Double faced wool blend with cotton lawn edging

1. Shortened front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust.

2. After eliminating front facing, Hong Kong finishing seam allowances and lining the sleeves, inserting the sleeves with hand sewing it would have been easier to line the jacket!

3. I did not use any interfacing but I did add sleeve heads.

4. Due to not facing the jacket front I changed the order of construction and techniques.

5. The collar seam is stitched wst and the center back seam is stitched rst. Bias trim was added to hide collar seam.

6. Hong Kong seam finish is done with single layer and a folded bias strip was used for edge finishes.

7. The front edges were trimmed before stitching side seams and sleeves.

Love Notions Tabitha Top with Yoke and Long Sleeves. Rayon blend jersey knit and cotton lawn

1. Shortened back, front, and sleeves between shoulder and bust. Sleeve length shortened 2 inches.

2. This is a TNT pattern for me. I need to remember the sleeves get too narrow below elbow before I make it again.

Jalie Renee Pant #4018 (see photo above)

Ponte rayon blend

1. I shortened the length of the pants 1 and 1/2 inch above and below the knee. Next time I would only shorten length by 2 inches.

2. I used 1/4 inch seam allowances instead 3/8 seam allowances that pattern recommends- just to give me a little less negative ease.

3. This is my first make from this pattern and I will make it again. I like the fit, style and ease of construction, especially when it comes to the waistband.

Simplicity 0659/8377, Wool blend knit

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back, and sleeves. Also shortened the sleeve length 1 inch.

2. Did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. I used a jersey knit for facing to eliminate bulk.

4. Quick, easy, fun make.

Kristin’s Garments

Jalie 3248 Drop Pocket Cardigan, various knits

1. Made to pattern-size X. Fun to put together. Great for using larger scraps.

2. Recommend lightweight drapey fabric to keep pockets from getting too bulky.

Love Notions La Bella Donna, cotton knit
Jalie Dolman 3352, cotton knit

1. Both patterns have wide neck openings.

2. Jalie (size X) has a shorter sleeve and 3/4 length sleeve addition, La Bella Donna is longer and has a long hour glass shaped cuff. Recommend one size larger for cuff.

3. La Bella Donna (size Large) has one pattern piece, front same as back except for neck.

4. Added neckband from Tabor Vee Neck to “warm” up the tees.

True Bias Hudson Pant for Men, rayon knit

1. Ankle bands are bigger but narrower than women’s.

2. Same great fit as women’s pattern!

New Look 6735, rayon knit True Bias Hudson Pant for Women

1. Cut out smaller size (14) across shoulders for a closer fit. Also sized down for sleeve.

2. Added 6” to length.

3. Great New Look pattern with best construction practices. Neck band is straight, long band. Added cuffs. Bands overlap at center front which is what I was aiming for. Perfect for rayon knits and not a lot of extra fabric.

True Bias Hudson Pant for Women (photo above)

1. Omitted pockets. TNT pattern! Love the fit!!

Simplicity 9239, fleece with kimono remnants

1. Larger sleeve, different cuff, no placket, were some of the details that drew me to the pattern after seeing a few like it in magazines/websites.

2. Made size Medium, it’s an oversized fit.

3. Cut out another yoke and did burrito roll-just barely with the fleece. Used kimono fabrics as facings for fronts, collar, cuffs and pockets.

4. Omitted the back neck facing and trimmed back neck with bias.

January Garment Sewing Group Meetings

Saturday, January 7, Lakes Makerie (first Saturday of month-not second!)

Wednesday, January 11, Sewing Lounge

Thursday, January 12, First Sewing and Fabric Swap

Wednesday at Lakes Makerie

We’ll have our last installment of Garment Sewing Group for December and 2022 (!!) on Wednesday, December 14, 10:30 am. Hope you can join us and check out Lakes as it’s been a few months since we’ve been there.

On Thursday, December 15, we’ll be at First Sewing for Basic and Beyond Sergery, 10:15-12:15. It’s a one time class-any level you are at, we will help you thread, decorative stitches, cover stitch or just refresh your memory 🙂

Sew Social meets the same day and place (Thursday at First Sewing) from 1-4 pm. That will be the last of classes for 2022!

Here’s what we saw on Saturday at Treadle-

Great Copy Cascade Jacket
Resolution Bottoms from Love Notions
Toaster Sweater and then some-great trim acquired on travels abroad
Satisfying job of relining a handmade coat
A little Barbie sewing-did you know her body changed but the patterns didn’t!