Serger Class starts next week AND June GSG

Our next Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts next Thursday, June 30 at 10 am at First Sewing, 494 and Penn! The class continues July 7 and 21. Go to “Classes at First Sewing” in the menu bar to register.

June Garment Sewing Group:

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy Jacket, Burda 6760, View C, Silk Matka and Rayon Crepe Lining

1. This is an unlined jacket so my first step was to draft lining pattern pieces. The sleeves are underlined. Also a dart in the sleeve creates a 2 piece look which I like. It eliminates a lot of bulk.

2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment but did not shorten length because it is a cropped style.

3. Due to the texture of the main fabric I only interfaced the under collar.

4. Also due to the texture of the fabric I did not top stitch.

5. This pattern is from 2015. It was a fun make and I also decreased my pattern collection.

Coral with Navy Dot Classic Blouse, NewLook 6698, View B, Cotton Sateen

1. As always I did my petite adjustments but did not shorten the hem length – this is a crop length shirt.

2. The pattern envelope gives yardage for a skirt. There is no skirt in this pattern – maybe a typing error. That should have been my first clue that the pattern had some flaws.

3. The neckband is too short for neck and the directions for collar insertion are poor.

4. The only feature different from my TNT blouse pattern is the “cuff”.

Navy Gingham Pants, Burda 7062, Gingham with Bemberg lining, see photo above

1. This pattern is from 2013 and has been updated in the catalog.

2. I eliminated the side slits and added a lining.

3. This is a TNT for me and it will stay in pattern collection.

Coral “Scraps” Blouse

Coral “Scraps” Blouse, Liesl+ Co Geneva V-Neck Blouse, Cotton lawn, stripe and sateen

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and removed 2 inches from the length. I also softened the shirt tail hem and removed length from there as well. The designer is tall!

2. I raised the v-neck 1 inch.

3. I changed construction steps because I wanted to have the neck band on the rs of the blouse. I used the shorten/lengthen line to determine the the length of back top and bottom.

4. I chose this pattern because of the lantern sleeve. I am not fan of v-neck blouses but I thought I would give it a try anyway.

5. It was a fun make even though the construction techniques are kind of putsy and 1/2 seam allowances are used – WHY?!

Kristin’s Garments:

Summer Jacket/The Fold London, Vogue 1648, Stretch woven blend

1. Pattern includes lining but didn’t want to lose the stretch of fabric so just used facings.

2. Very large pleat in back was topstitched through all layers-directions had it hanging loose-I wanted a bit more of a “yoke line” to copy garment.

3. Center front overlap was eliminated so no closure. Corners at collar were rounded.

4. This pattern was previously made in fleece. Fits surprisingly well (no forward shoulder needed, bust dart in proper place, sleeve is great.

Brick Summer Pants, Vanessa Fluid Pants/Jalie Patterns, Silk blend fabric? See photo below

1. Added 3” to length-omitted cuff.

2. Darts are extended 2” for a lower seat 🙂

3. Waist band is made into one continuous strip eliminating seams and tie.

4. Great pants pattern-TNT!

Woven Summer Blouse, Harmony Blouse/Love Notions, Rayon challis and Jalie Vanessa Pants

1. Made to pattern as the hip area is already wider.

2. Neck binding is supposed to be turned all the way under, I like wrapping the serged edge.

3. Center back seam has waist shaping but the opening isn’t necessary to get blouse on. I just sewed the button on permanently.

4. Several sleeve variations. Great summer woven tee with a dart.

5. Great fit for my body!

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck
Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Tomato rayon knit vee neck

1. Shortened length 2”.

2. Both necklines are great depthwise. Vee is quite pointed and the rayon fabric didn’t help. Pattern also includes a scoop neck and all sleeve length variations.

3. Definitely a TNT!

July 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, July 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, July 13, 10:30 Lakes Makerie, Mpls

Thursday, July 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap 🙂

Classes and Saturday’s Pics

We have two classes starting this week-

Serge (or Sew) This: Woven Tee: Wed., May 18, 25, June 2, 10:30-12:30, Treadle

Serge (or Sew) This: Core Pattern Tee: Thurs., May 19, 26, June 2, 10-12, First Sewing

Register online at Treadle for Treadle class and Material Girls for First Sewing class. Email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com for questions.

Remy Top/Brussels Skirt
Simple tee dress in a great print
Lightweight wool jacket

A Great Day at Ginny’s

We waited till May to avoid late snowstorms and instead we got heavy rain and road construction! But everyone got there safely and showed some great warmer weather garments. We are so grateful that you all love to meet together!!

Thursday will be Garment Sewing Group and Fabric Swap at 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington and then Saturday at Treadle Yard Goods-come and join the fun and creativity.

Trio Top/Sewing Workhop and Barry Pant/StyleArc
London Shirt/Sewing Workshop
Noto Tee, Hudson Pant, Sterling Jacket-all Sewing Workshop
OOP Butterick Jean Jacket
Jacket/Vogue 1975 Barcelona Dress/Maven Patterns
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop
Fabric selection by Ginny
Machine embroidery

April Garments

Judging from the photos we have a pretty good time at our meetings! We had a large group at the Sewing Lounge and then a LARGE group of free fabric at First Sewing-and many people went home with a bagful 🙂

Thanks for being there!! Lots of new faces and a few we hadn’t seen for some time…

Debbie’s Garments:

Purple Print Empire Waist Dress

Itch to Stitch Recoleta Dress

Linen

1. Did not do any petite adjustments but shortened length 3 inches.

2. I felt the print needed to be broken up a bit so I added piping around neckband- not fun.

3. Adding a zipper is optional but I disagree with that. Even with zipper I find the dress difficult to put on and take off.

4. I have a difficult time choosing what size to make when using Itch to Stitch patterns. They seem to run large on bodice but smaller at hips. I am sure it is just me but I think I will stay away from this brand for awhile .

Soft Coral Print Cut On Sleeve Blouse

Melody Dolman by Love Notions

Rayon Lawn

1. I did my petite adjustments between shoulder and bust, bust and waist and shortened one inch at hem.

2. I used the one piece collar method from Louise Cutting for collar. It eliminates seams at collar edge. I also softened the shirt tail curve on hem.

3. The directions for inside collar are good, easy and quick and eliminates slipstitching.

4. I feel the blouse fits nice but next time, depending on fabric choice, I would XS shoulders to medium at hips.

5. There will be a next time. Love Notions patterns work well for me.

Oatmeal/Coral Print Sweatshirt

Simplicity 9229

95% Cotton 5% Spandex French Terry 4-way stretch

1. I made this tee last year and was pleased with it. The angled front design line is showing up everywhere so with a few changes I am already thinking of my next make using this pattern.

2. I did my standard petite adjustments.

3. I extended the short sleeve into long sleeve length .

4. I topstitched the angle seam for contrast.

Both are wearing the Vanessa Joggers

Coral Joggers

Jalie Vanessa Joggers

Cotton

1. A TNT pattern that I make often.

2.The changes I make from the original pattern is a one piece waistband without the drawstring feature and no fly front detail.

Kristin’s Garments

Golf Dress

Simplicity 9328

Poly/lycra knit

1. Looking for sun protection and comfort. Quarter zip was pretty straightforward-reinforce the area with interfacing, stitch over stitching line, clip to inside corners, sew each side of zipper and tuck in the triangle at bottom.

2. Pattern called for sewing ribbon to the inside of zipper but used bias strip instead-easier to stitch to raw edge and pressed easily for less bulk.

3. Pattern called for stitching one band on then turning under edges of other and topstitching but with chosen fabric I serged the whole band on and topstitched seam allowance down.

Cold Sewing Day Sweater

Jalie Romy Pattern

Wool knit remnants

1. Very quick sew with only two pattern pieces (sleeve and front/back) and because of that the fit at the neck could use a good forward shoulder adjustment.

2. Instead of adding band, I cut pattern longer to equal band and made a deep hem.

3. Underarm curve and sleeve is to pattern.

4. Funnel neck is nice and their technique of sewing the seam allowances together to keep neck in place is a technique I will use again.

Faux Wrap Skirt (pictured above and below)

New Look 6646

Stretch woven

1. Not enough fabric to make the wrap to pattern and didn’t really want the free swinging wrap anyway.

2. Cut the front 2.5” wider and stitched a 1.25” pleat in the position of the wrap hem.

3. Basic straight skirt with back darts. Omitted the waistband and stitched on elastic.

Peplum Sweater Jacket

Burda 6293

Ponte

1. Loved the photo so had to give it a try. Instead of facings and linings I added a band at the neck and a band at center fronts so I had overlap for closure.

2. Lots of seams for knit but a fun adventure in fitting.

3. Lighter weight ponte was perfect fabric choice.

May 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, May 11, 10:30, Ginny’s in Rochester

Thursday, May 12, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, May 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

January Garment Sewing Group Hosts

Saturday’s meeting was much fun with some great winter inspiration!

We’re masking again but small inconvenience if we can still get together. Zoom just isn’t the same as seeing things in person!

We’ll be at Maggy’s Sewing Lounge on Wednesday, Jan. 12 and then Thursday, Jan. 13, at First Sewing in Bloomington for the last meeting of the month and FABRIC SWAP! The swap has been catching on so as long as people bring fabric and take it home, we’ll continue it.

Redo of an OOP Vogue-love the lining and BUTTONS!
Mashup of ready to wear and a few other patterns-very well matched pocket!
Love Notions Whistler
Favorite tee of Pam’s and Debbie-now Butterick 6848 instead of McCalls

Happy Holidays!

Hope you all enjoy the Season! The creativity and inspiration you all bring to our meetings and classes keep us sewing and wanting more. We’ll be back in January-

More inspiration from December’s Garment Sewing Group-

Fabric swap at First Sewing
So many choices-
Beautiful wool gabardine coat and many lessons learned
Merry Christmas sewing
Marcy Tilton tee and Jalie Renee pants

Garment Sewing Group Week

All three meetings inside one week this month! Sweet! Come once or come to all-you will surely see something that inspires you. As always, first time is free/pay once and come to as many December meetings as you like.

Fabric origin? Pattern? Come and find out… 🙂

Wednesday, December 8th at Treadle, 10:30

Thursday, December 9th at First Sewing, 10:30. We will continue our fabric swapping at this meeting. Someone (?!) is also moving houses this week and needs to share the stash…

Saturday, December 11th at Treadle, 10:30

More November Inspiration

November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!

December’s meetings are:

Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle

Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)

Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.

Hope to see you!!

Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing Workshop
And then there were two…
Light and Shadows from Cutting Line Designs
A chic thriftstore upcycle
An oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!

November’s Garments

Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-

Garment Sewing Group

November 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress

McCalls 7470, View B

Fine wale corduroy

  1. This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier.  My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
  2. It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
  3. I made the following construction changes:  burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
  4. I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric.  A fun make.

Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt

My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)

adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011, 

Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.

Cotton/linen blend

  1. While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try. 
  2. To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
  3. I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.

Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi

Simplicity 9374, View D

Light weight organic cotton fleece

  1. Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
  2. I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated  pockets and interfacing. 

Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)

McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848

Cotton knit with very little stretch.

This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!

Kristin’s Garments:

Casual Chanel 

Vogue 7975

Navy wool/multicolor wool

  1. I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
  2. Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
  3. Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
  4. Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
  5. Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
  6. Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.

Uniform Pinafore?? 

The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills

Cotton corduroy

  1. I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
  2. Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
  3. Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
  4. Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂

Floral/Spider Blouse

KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy

Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand

  1. After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time. 
  2. No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.

Slippery Leggings

Clara Leggings by Jalie

Activewear knit

  1. Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
  2. Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!

December 2021 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul