January Garment Sewing Group Hosts

Saturday’s meeting was much fun with some great winter inspiration!

We’re masking again but small inconvenience if we can still get together. Zoom just isn’t the same as seeing things in person!

We’ll be at Maggy’s Sewing Lounge on Wednesday, Jan. 12 and then Thursday, Jan. 13, at First Sewing in Bloomington for the last meeting of the month and FABRIC SWAP! The swap has been catching on so as long as people bring fabric and take it home, we’ll continue it.

Redo of an OOP Vogue-love the lining and BUTTONS!
Mashup of ready to wear and a few other patterns-very well matched pocket!
Love Notions Whistler
Favorite tee of Pam’s and Debbie-now Butterick 6848 instead of McCalls

Happy Holidays!

Hope you all enjoy the Season! The creativity and inspiration you all bring to our meetings and classes keep us sewing and wanting more. We’ll be back in January-

More inspiration from December’s Garment Sewing Group-

Fabric swap at First Sewing
So many choices-
Beautiful wool gabardine coat and many lessons learned
Merry Christmas sewing
Marcy Tilton tee and Jalie Renee pants

Garment Sewing Group Week

All three meetings inside one week this month! Sweet! Come once or come to all-you will surely see something that inspires you. As always, first time is free/pay once and come to as many December meetings as you like.

Fabric origin? Pattern? Come and find out… 🙂

Wednesday, December 8th at Treadle, 10:30

Thursday, December 9th at First Sewing, 10:30. We will continue our fabric swapping at this meeting. Someone (?!) is also moving houses this week and needs to share the stash…

Saturday, December 11th at Treadle, 10:30

More November Inspiration

November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!

December’s meetings are:

Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle

Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)

Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.

Hope to see you!!

Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing Workshop
And then there were two…
Light and Shadows from Cutting Line Designs
A chic thriftstore upcycle
An oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!

November’s Garments

Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-

Garment Sewing Group

November 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress

McCalls 7470, View B

Fine wale corduroy

  1. This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier.  My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
  2. It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
  3. I made the following construction changes:  burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
  4. I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric.  A fun make.

Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt

My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)

adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011, 

Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.

Cotton/linen blend

  1. While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try. 
  2. To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
  3. I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.

Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi

Simplicity 9374, View D

Light weight organic cotton fleece

  1. Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
  2. I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated  pockets and interfacing. 

Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)

McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848

Cotton knit with very little stretch.

This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!

Kristin’s Garments:

Casual Chanel 

Vogue 7975

Navy wool/multicolor wool

  1. I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
  2. Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
  3. Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
  4. Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
  5. Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
  6. Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.

Uniform Pinafore?? 

The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills

Cotton corduroy

  1. I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
  2. Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
  3. Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
  4. Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂

Floral/Spider Blouse

KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy

Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand

  1. After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time. 
  2. No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.

Slippery Leggings

Clara Leggings by Jalie

Activewear knit

  1. Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
  2. Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!

December 2021 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

September Sewing-Meeting on Wednesday!

We’ll be at Ginny’s in Rochester on Wednesday at 10:30 for Garment Sewing Group and then at First Sewing on Thursday with an added fabric swap after the regular meeting also at 10:30!

I know, it’s October but I’m a bit behind and can’t pass up the opportunity to share some of what we saw last month-

Liberty Shirt from Sewing Workshop-and then some
Hacking Louise Cutting to make the Holiday Shirt from Makers Atelier
Grace Top from StyleArc and one of four Free Range Slacks from Sew House Seven!
Handkerchief linen shirt
Working with Sandra Betzina pattern
Burnside Bibs from Sew House Seven
A great print tee
An Alabama Chanin inspiration
StyleArc Archer Jacket

October Garment Sewing Group Starts Saturday

The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!

So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am

Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com

Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!

A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!

July Garments from Debbie and Kristin

July was such an amazing month for inspiration from all of you that our garments feel like an after thought but here goes :))

Kristin’s Garments

Summer Blouse, Burda 6914, Gray silk print

1. Made to pattern-love the dart placement. Great summer top for drapey fabric.

2. Forgot to trim 3/8” from neck edge-Burda learning opportunity!

Summer Shirt, Melody Dolman from Love Notions, Rayon stripe

1. Made to pattern-should have added at hips.

2. Sleeve cuff is sewn on and then flipped up-I didn’t like that look so let it hang.

3. Serged the collar on all the way across neck instead of pattern directions for back neck.

4. Kalle Shirt from Closet Core is similar-this shirt is everywhere in RTW.

Shirt Dress, Helmi Trench Shirt and Dress from Named Patterns, Stretch shirting

1. Measured favorite JJill shirt and tried to copy.

2. Ended up with a bit more ease at hips than may be necessary.

3. Added vertical tucks to back to bring in a bit.

4. Moved waist seam up two inches to copy JJill.

5. Made collar a right angle instead of curve at neck edge-this is the narrow version-pattern includes a collar that will fold over.

6. Omitted the hidden placket. Quick and easy “fold twice and topstitch” placket-as long as your fabric is acceptable on wrong side.

7. This will be a favorite pattern!! Sleeves and shoulders fit well!

8. Factory Dress from Merchant & Mills is similar.

Debbie’s Garments

Black Hem Slit Pants, Love Notions Sabrina Slims Pant, Rayon blend ponte

1. I made View A-flat front and eliminated front and back pockets. Since this was my first make from this pattern I wanted to just do the basic to determine alterations and Ethan consider options such as the seaming down the front and back, zips at leg bottom and welt pockets in the future.

2. This was quick and easy. Great directions and construction techniques.

3. I will need to remove some length between my bottom and knee and knee and hem. I will also decrease the width of the waistband. I find 2” is too wide and I prefer 1.5” elastic so waistband needs adjusting. Upper side seams are a little too curvy for me so I straightened them about 6”from the hip toward the hem.

(See photo above)

Purple Print Top With Contrast Trim, New Look 6808, View A, adapted, Rayon twill for shirt body, linen blend for contrast

1. A TNT pattern that meets my needs every once in awhile. I like the fish eye darts on front and back for shaping.

2. Instead of facing for the neck edge I did a serged bias wrapped edge. I replaced the slit hemmed sleeves and added cuffs to break up the busy print.

Camel Herringbone Woven Joggers, Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants, Linen blend (cotton or rayon?)

1. This is my fourth make from this pattern and I can see more coming. My first pair was a navy rayon blend made to pattern without cuffs. For May I used a light weight denim with cuffs but did not add draw string. I used a light weight French terry for the third pair. Even though I went down a size a more stable knit like a ponte would be better. I use that make for pj’s-I will stick with wovens from here on out.

2. I made the following fit adjustments-increased back darts by 1/4”, increased CB seam 5/8” from waist to crotch curve and narrowed width of waistband 1/2”.

3. Again, no draw string-flat center front which eliminates bulk.

(See photo above)

Border Print Raglan Tee-Butterick 6207, View A w/o band-Rayon jersey

1. This pattern is great for a quick and easy tee that has some shape and flows.

2. The fabric makes the tee but I didn’t want it to be too much so I worked around the print for solid sleeves and band. Another TNT pattern.

November Garment Sewing Group

Good to see people-familiar and new 🙂 “Wearable now” seemed to be the theme for Debbie and myself-

Please note that instead of a photo of the pattern, the pattern name is a clickable link and will take you directly to the pattern website.

Debbie’s Garments:

Teal Asymmetric Jacket

Free download from Sew Style Magazine

Lana Bolleto Boiled Wool, 60% Viscose, 40% Wool

1. I have been sorting through pattern stash and came across this jacket and thought I would give it a try.

2. Even though the directions are vague and incomplete it is a quick and easy make, especially when using boiled wool.

3. The buttonholes went in nicely.  I did edge stitch all raw edges but it certainly wasn’t necessary.

Navy Shawl Neck Cardigan

McCalls 7254, view C

Designer Plush Cotton French Terry

1. Another pattern from stash. This was a pattern of the year on Pattern Review from 2017. I am late to the party! I love this fabric and wanted to be warm and nice looking at the same time and thought this was the ticket. I did make a few changes.

2. I used one layer-no facing-for the collar and peplum to eliminate bulk.

3. I turned the collar seam allowance to right side and covered stitched the entire cardi.

4. I didn’t like the look of the raw edge on the collar so I added a narrow knit band for a clean finish.

5. I used the serger and cover stitch machine for most of the construction but when I needed to use the sewing machine my walking foot did the trick.

To complete my outfits I used the following tried and true patterns:

Watercolor Splatter Dot Jersey Knit turtleneck

Jalie #2805

Solid Teal Stretch Pinwale Corduroy Pants

Eleonore Jalie Pull on Pants #3461

Kristin’s Garments:

Monet Boucle Jacket

Chenille Boucle from NYC buying trip with Peggy Sagers

Burda 7700

1. This is a favorite pattern-I’ve worn out the other one! Love the big but not too big size and the collar with minimal bulk at center front, the pockets, the length, everything!!

2. Pattern is written for fulled fabrics or linen type (no facings vs. facings) which adds to its versatility.

3. I used facings but no interfacing except at neck edge as it seemed to take a lot of abuse during construction.

4. I trimmed off a long triangle at underarm of sleeve and side seam to eliminate some bulk and it worked well. Set the sleeve in instead of flat application.

5. Tried topstitching the sleeve seam allowance both directions to see if it laid differently with the drop shoulder but inconclusive results.

6. I applied the collar in one piece with a bias strip on top of seam and then rolled around and under seam allowance and stitched in ditch.

Luxe Sweatshirt

Sweatshirt fleece

Pinnacle Top/Sweater by Papercut

1. Intriqued by the triangles, I chose to color block the pattern. The versions without the top triangle got quite low and I wanted warmth.

2. Pattern is one big piece with no shoulder seam and then the two triangles. Would be fun with a stripe.

3. The instructions were well written and it all went together well.

4. It didn’t really flare out as it shows in pattern.

5. Was a little on the short side so added a hem band with diagonal slits. Used Solvy to keep the butted bands together during application to bottom of garment.

6. Copied the diagonal slits for the sleeve bands and put the slits opposite the sleeve seam and they ended up in a perfect place!

7. Doubled the width of the neck band for a little more coverage.

Skinny Pants

Peggy Sagers 4 Piece Yoga Pant

Beyond Yoga activewear knit

1. A great finishing touch to the other two garments.

2. Added a waistband instead of elastic sewn directly to top of pants.

December Garment Sewing Group via Zoom:

10:30 AM

Tuesday, December 8

Thursday, December 10

Saturday, December 12