Saturday’s meeting was much fun with some great winter inspiration!
We’re masking again but small inconvenience if we can still get together. Zoom just isn’t the same as seeing things in person!
We’ll be at Maggy’s Sewing Lounge on Wednesday, Jan. 12 and then Thursday, Jan. 13, at First Sewing in Bloomington for the last meeting of the month and FABRIC SWAP! The swap has been catching on so as long as people bring fabric and take it home, we’ll continue it.
All three meetings inside one week this month! Sweet! Come once or come to all-you will surely see something that inspires you. As always, first time is free/pay once and come to as many December meetings as you like.
Wednesday, December 8th at Treadle, 10:30
Thursday, December 9th at First Sewing, 10:30. We will continue our fabric swapping at this meeting. Someone (?!) is also moving houses this week and needs to share the stash…
Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-
Garment Sewing Group
Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress
McCalls 7470, View B
Fine wale corduroy
This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier. My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
I made the following construction changes: burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric. A fun make.
Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt
My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)
adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011,
Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.
While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try.
To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.
Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi
Simplicity 9374, View D
Light weight organic cotton fleece
Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated pockets and interfacing.
Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)
McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848
Cotton knit with very little stretch.
This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!
Navy wool/multicolor wool
I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.
The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills
I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂
KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy
Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand
After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time.
No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.
Clara Leggings by Jalie
Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!
December 2021 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!
So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:
Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am
Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to email@example.com
Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!
A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!
July was such an amazing month for inspiration from all of you that our garments feel like an after thought but here goes :))
Summer Blouse, Burda 6914, Gray silk print
1. Made to pattern-love the dart placement. Great summer top for drapey fabric.
2. Forgot to trim 3/8” from neck edge-Burda learning opportunity!
Summer Shirt, Melody Dolman from Love Notions, Rayon stripe
1. Made to pattern-should have added at hips.
2. Sleeve cuff is sewn on and then flipped up-I didn’t like that look so let it hang.
3. Serged the collar on all the way across neck instead of pattern directions for back neck.
4. Kalle Shirt from Closet Core is similar-this shirt is everywhere in RTW.
Shirt Dress, Helmi Trench Shirt and Dress from Named Patterns, Stretch shirting
1. Measured favorite JJill shirt and tried to copy.
2. Ended up with a bit more ease at hips than may be necessary.
3. Added vertical tucks to back to bring in a bit.
4. Moved waist seam up two inches to copy JJill.
5. Made collar a right angle instead of curve at neck edge-this is the narrow version-pattern includes a collar that will fold over.
6. Omitted the hidden placket. Quick and easy “fold twice and topstitch” placket-as long as your fabric is acceptable on wrong side.
7. This will be a favorite pattern!! Sleeves and shoulders fit well!
8. Factory Dress from Merchant & Mills is similar.
Black Hem Slit Pants, Love Notions Sabrina Slims Pant, Rayon blend ponte
1. I made View A-flat front and eliminated front and back pockets. Since this was my first make from this pattern I wanted to just do the basic to determine alterations and Ethan consider options such as the seaming down the front and back, zips at leg bottom and welt pockets in the future.
2. This was quick and easy. Great directions and construction techniques.
3. I will need to remove some length between my bottom and knee and knee and hem. I will also decrease the width of the waistband. I find 2” is too wide and I prefer 1.5” elastic so waistband needs adjusting. Upper side seams are a little too curvy for me so I straightened them about 6”from the hip toward the hem.
(See photo above)
Purple Print Top With Contrast Trim, New Look 6808, View A, adapted, Rayon twill for shirt body, linen blend for contrast
1. A TNT pattern that meets my needs every once in awhile. I like the fish eye darts on front and back for shaping.
2. Instead of facing for the neck edge I did a serged bias wrapped edge. I replaced the slit hemmed sleeves and added cuffs to break up the busy print.
1. This is my fourth make from this pattern and I can see more coming. My first pair was a navy rayon blend made to pattern without cuffs. For May I used a light weight denim with cuffs but did not add draw string. I used a light weight French terry for the third pair. Even though I went down a size a more stable knit like a ponte would be better. I use that make for pj’s-I will stick with wovens from here on out.
2. I made the following fit adjustments-increased back darts by 1/4”, increased CB seam 5/8” from waist to crotch curve and narrowed width of waistband 1/2”.
3. Again, no draw string-flat center front which eliminates bulk.
(See photo above)
Border Print Raglan Tee-Butterick 6207, View A w/o band-Rayon jersey
1. This pattern is great for a quick and easy tee that has some shape and flows.
2. The fabric makes the tee but I didn’t want it to be too much so I worked around the print for solid sleeves and band. Another TNT pattern.
1. Another pattern from stash. This was a pattern of the year on Pattern Review from 2017. I am late to the party! I love this fabric and wanted to be warm and nice looking at the same time and thought this was the ticket. I did make a few changes.
2. I used one layer-no facing-for the collar and peplum to eliminate bulk.
3. I turned the collar seam allowance to right side and covered stitched the entire cardi.
4. I didn’t like the look of the raw edge on the collar so I added a narrow knit band for a clean finish.
5. I used the serger and cover stitch machine for most of the construction but when I needed to use the sewing machine my walking foot did the trick.
To complete my outfits I used the following tried and true patterns: