November Garment Sewing Group

Good to see people-familiar and new 🙂 “Wearable now” seemed to be the theme for Debbie and myself-

Please note that instead of a photo of the pattern, the pattern name is a clickable link and will take you directly to the pattern website.

Debbie’s Garments:

Teal Asymmetric Jacket

Free download from Sew Style Magazine

Lana Bolleto Boiled Wool, 60% Viscose, 40% Wool

1. I have been sorting through pattern stash and came across this jacket and thought I would give it a try.

2. Even though the directions are vague and incomplete it is a quick and easy make, especially when using boiled wool.

3. The buttonholes went in nicely.  I did edge stitch all raw edges but it certainly wasn’t necessary.

Navy Shawl Neck Cardigan

McCalls 7254, view C

Designer Plush Cotton French Terry

1. Another pattern from stash. This was a pattern of the year on Pattern Review from 2017. I am late to the party! I love this fabric and wanted to be warm and nice looking at the same time and thought this was the ticket. I did make a few changes.

2. I used one layer-no facing-for the collar and peplum to eliminate bulk.

3. I turned the collar seam allowance to right side and covered stitched the entire cardi.

4. I didn’t like the look of the raw edge on the collar so I added a narrow knit band for a clean finish.

5. I used the serger and cover stitch machine for most of the construction but when I needed to use the sewing machine my walking foot did the trick.

To complete my outfits I used the following tried and true patterns:

Watercolor Splatter Dot Jersey Knit turtleneck

Jalie #2805

Solid Teal Stretch Pinwale Corduroy Pants

Eleonore Jalie Pull on Pants #3461

Kristin’s Garments:

Monet Boucle Jacket

Chenille Boucle from NYC buying trip with Peggy Sagers

Burda 7700

1. This is a favorite pattern-I’ve worn out the other one! Love the big but not too big size and the collar with minimal bulk at center front, the pockets, the length, everything!!

2. Pattern is written for fulled fabrics or linen type (no facings vs. facings) which adds to its versatility.

3. I used facings but no interfacing except at neck edge as it seemed to take a lot of abuse during construction.

4. I trimmed off a long triangle at underarm of sleeve and side seam to eliminate some bulk and it worked well. Set the sleeve in instead of flat application.

5. Tried topstitching the sleeve seam allowance both directions to see if it laid differently with the drop shoulder but inconclusive results.

6. I applied the collar in one piece with a bias strip on top of seam and then rolled around and under seam allowance and stitched in ditch.

Luxe Sweatshirt

Sweatshirt fleece

Pinnacle Top/Sweater by Papercut

1. Intriqued by the triangles, I chose to color block the pattern. The versions without the top triangle got quite low and I wanted warmth.

2. Pattern is one big piece with no shoulder seam and then the two triangles. Would be fun with a stripe.

3. The instructions were well written and it all went together well.

4. It didn’t really flare out as it shows in pattern.

5. Was a little on the short side so added a hem band with diagonal slits. Used Solvy to keep the butted bands together during application to bottom of garment.

6. Copied the diagonal slits for the sleeve bands and put the slits opposite the sleeve seam and they ended up in a perfect place!

7. Doubled the width of the neck band for a little more coverage.

Skinny Pants

Peggy Sagers 4 Piece Yoga Pant

Beyond Yoga activewear knit

1. A great finishing touch to the other two garments.

2. Added a waistband instead of elastic sewn directly to top of pants.

December Garment Sewing Group via Zoom:

10:30 AM

Tuesday, December 8

Thursday, December 10

Saturday, December 12

September Garment Sewing Group

Things didn’t change much under our new name-we still were inspired by everyone’s creativity and interest! People attended from Texas, Alaska and Florida! That’s the beauty of Zoom and why we intend to continue at least one Zoom meeting after we are back to normal (don’t go there 🙂

Garment Sewing Group

September 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

Coral Novelty Knit Casual Jacket-

NewLook 6251, View A

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

2. Used mesh for pocket bags and cut 4 rather than 2 as pattern directs. I intended to increase pocket size to enable pocket bag to be caught in the stitching of hem and zipper but I forgot! Because of that the pockets needed to be topstitched to garment front.

3. I inserted invisible zippers in princess seam rather than exposed zipper at pocket as pattern directs. I also applied a contrast binding to zipper tape.

4. The fabric was difficult to work with. The serger chewed more than cut and the walking foot was necessary for all other stitching.

Kristin’s Cropped Rust Jacket and Debbie’s Navy Version-

Closet Core Sienna Maker Jacket, View C

Pendleton Wool

1. I did not make a muslin for this jacket but instead did my usual fitting adjustments.

2. I should’ve made a muslin – so I did before I made the second jacket. The new adjustments included shortening between shoulders and bust one inch, forward shoulder and narrow shoulder even though it is a drop sleeve.

3. The jacket is for the intermediate sewer and it is extremely important to follow instructions especially when making back placket and when to put buttonhole on sleeve!

4. I did make some changes in construction – interfaced pocket hems, did a single one inch hem rather than a double fold hem, and horizontal buttonholes on back placket rather than vertical.

5. I am very pleased with my second make and grateful to have a personal fit master. I was able to thank her with an almost finished Rust Sienna Jacket that fits her nicely!

6. Kristin’s addendum-As long as you have another body-you don’t need to make a muslin 🙂 I am very happy with my Sienna Maker Jacket! I added buttons and a one inch band to the sleeves with not too much left for a hem but it worked and will be a fun fall jacket. Thanks, Debbie!

Terracotta Water Wave Jacket-

Itch to Stitch Hvar Jacket

Soft Gauze Sweater Knit

1. I used the wrong fabric for this pattern accidentally! I had intended to use this fabric for another project and somehow got the two mixed up and didn’t discover my mistake until it was too late. Oh well.

2. The pattern calls for drapey woven or stable knit. The sweater knit did not fit that category so I adjusted by eliminating the darts and thinking of the garment as a sweater and not a jacket. I also shortened the length between shoulder and bust and went down a size by taking large seam allowances.

3. This is a quick and easy make. The entire garment was serged except for topstitching the princess seams. An afternoon make.

Kristin’s Garments:

Warmer Weather Fall Blouse

Cielo Top and Dress by Closet Core Patterns, View B

Rayon woven

1. I’ve made the dress before and knew that it was a bit broad at the neck and shoulders so placed center fronts and backs on fold but then rotated keeping waist point on the fold but making neck a bit smaller and hips wider. Kind of a quick fix but it worked very well.

2. The short yokes at the shoulder I cut four and doubled them to give a little more stability.

3. I tried it as a longer blouse but decided I like short better in this blouse.

4. Pattern directions great. I used contrast inside the lantern sleeve.

5. A vest with deep armholes would go nicely over this blouse-if it stays this cold!!

Fall Ankle Pants

Pietra Pants by Closet Core Patterns, View B

Light coral denim

1. Nice fitting pattern right out of the envelope. Extended the center back by curving seam allowances across back waistband and waist to 1/4” at center back and back to 5/8” at side seam.

2. Pockets take a little bit of puzzling but worth the work.

3. The treatment of the elastic and back waistband at side seams makes for a bit of bulkiness.

4. Back waistband also got a bit bulky as the pattern is high waisted and there’s a lot to gather. I stitched the elastic down and pressed it to try to flatten.

5. View B is a cropped length and View A is longer.

6. Fun fall pant until socks are a necessity.

Eileen Fisher Dress Copy

Jalie Nicole Dress and Top

Ponte knit

1. Thought the EF dress would be a great fall wardrobe staple but as I looked at the pattern measurements it became clear that it was a very close fitting pattern. So I sized up. Kind of nice that the pattern pieces for bodice and skirt are two separate pieces and then joined when you lay them on fabric to cut out.

2. First version (in red) was more body skimming than I wanted so I dropped the armhole, added at side seams and used a larger sleeve.

3. Second version is closer to what I was looking for. The bust dart is quite big and ends up pokey but I will most likely be wearing the dress under a jacket like my Sienna Maker Jacket by Debbie 🙂 and I’m not going to stress about it. I already spent the better part of a day trying to remedy the problem and ended up extending the dart by 1/2” and giving it a good press!

October Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:

Thursday,October 8, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Saturday, October 10, 10:30 at Treadle , St. Paul

Tuesday, October 13, 10:30 at Treadle, St. Paul