We’ll be at Ginny’s in Rochester on Wednesday at 10:30 for Garment Sewing Group and then at First Sewing on Thursday with an added fabric swap after the regular meeting also at 10:30!
I know, it’s October but I’m a bit behind and can’t pass up the opportunity to share some of what we saw last month-
The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!
So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:
Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am
Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com
Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!
A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!
July was such an amazing month for inspiration from all of you that our garments feel like an after thought but here goes :))
Kristin’s Garments
Summer Blouse, Burda 6914, Gray silk print
1. Made to pattern-love the dart placement. Great summer top for drapey fabric.
2. Forgot to trim 3/8” from neck edge-Burda learning opportunity!
Summer Shirt, Melody Dolman from Love Notions, Rayon stripe
1. Made to pattern-should have added at hips.
2. Sleeve cuff is sewn on and then flipped up-I didn’t like that look so let it hang.
3. Serged the collar on all the way across neck instead of pattern directions for back neck.
4. Kalle Shirt from Closet Core is similar-this shirt is everywhere in RTW.
Shirt Dress, Helmi Trench Shirt and Dress from Named Patterns, Stretch shirting
1. Measured favorite JJill shirt and tried to copy.
2. Ended up with a bit more ease at hips than may be necessary.
3. Added vertical tucks to back to bring in a bit.
4. Moved waist seam up two inches to copy JJill.
5. Made collar a right angle instead of curve at neck edge-this is the narrow version-pattern includes a collar that will fold over.
6. Omitted the hidden placket. Quick and easy “fold twice and topstitch” placket-as long as your fabric is acceptable on wrong side.
7. This will be a favorite pattern!! Sleeves and shoulders fit well!
8. Factory Dress from Merchant & Mills is similar.
Debbie’s Garments
Black Hem Slit Pants, Love Notions Sabrina Slims Pant, Rayon blend ponte
1. I made View A-flat front and eliminated front and back pockets. Since this was my first make from this pattern I wanted to just do the basic to determine alterations and Ethan consider options such as the seaming down the front and back, zips at leg bottom and welt pockets in the future.
2. This was quick and easy. Great directions and construction techniques.
3. I will need to remove some length between my bottom and knee and knee and hem. I will also decrease the width of the waistband. I find 2” is too wide and I prefer 1.5” elastic so waistband needs adjusting. Upper side seams are a little too curvy for me so I straightened them about 6”from the hip toward the hem.
(See photo above)
Purple Print Top With Contrast Trim, New Look 6808, View A, adapted, Rayon twill for shirt body, linen blend for contrast
1. A TNT pattern that meets my needs every once in awhile. I like the fish eye darts on front and back for shaping.
2. Instead of facing for the neck edge I did a serged bias wrapped edge. I replaced the slit hemmed sleeves and added cuffs to break up the busy print.
Camel Herringbone Woven Joggers, Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants, Linen blend (cotton or rayon?)
1. This is my fourth make from this pattern and I can see more coming. My first pair was a navy rayon blend made to pattern without cuffs. For May I used a light weight denim with cuffs but did not add draw string. I used a light weight French terry for the third pair. Even though I went down a size a more stable knit like a ponte would be better. I use that make for pj’s-I will stick with wovens from here on out.
2. I made the following fit adjustments-increased back darts by 1/4”, increased CB seam 5/8” from waist to crotch curve and narrowed width of waistband 1/2”.
3. Again, no draw string-flat center front which eliminates bulk.
(See photo above)
Border Print Raglan Tee-Butterick 6207, View A w/o band-Rayon jersey
1. This pattern is great for a quick and easy tee that has some shape and flows.
2. The fabric makes the tee but I didn’t want it to be too much so I worked around the print for solid sleeves and band. Another TNT pattern.
Good to see people-familiar and new 🙂 “Wearable now” seemed to be the theme for Debbie and myself-
Please note that instead of a photo of the pattern, the pattern name is a clickable link and will take you directly to the pattern website.
Debbie’s Garments:
Teal Asymmetric Jacket
Free download from Sew Style Magazine
Lana Bolleto Boiled Wool, 60% Viscose, 40% Wool
1. I have been sorting through pattern stash and came across this jacket and thought I would give it a try.
2. Even though the directions are vague and incomplete it is a quick and easy make, especially when using boiled wool.
3. The buttonholes went in nicely. I did edge stitch all raw edges but it certainly wasn’t necessary.
Navy Shawl Neck Cardigan
Designer Plush Cotton French Terry
1. Another pattern from stash. This was a pattern of the year on Pattern Review from 2017. I am late to the party! I love this fabric and wanted to be warm and nice looking at the same time and thought this was the ticket. I did make a few changes.
2. I used one layer-no facing-for the collar and peplum to eliminate bulk.
3. I turned the collar seam allowance to right side and covered stitched the entire cardi.
4. I didn’t like the look of the raw edge on the collar so I added a narrow knit band for a clean finish.
5. I used the serger and cover stitch machine for most of the construction but when I needed to use the sewing machine my walking foot did the trick.
To complete my outfits I used the following tried and true patterns:
Watercolor Splatter Dot Jersey Knit turtleneck
Solid Teal Stretch Pinwale Corduroy Pants–
Eleonore Jalie Pull on Pants #3461
Kristin’s Garments:
Monet Boucle Jacket
Chenille Boucle from NYC buying trip with Peggy Sagers
1. This is a favorite pattern-I’ve worn out the other one! Love the big but not too big size and the collar with minimal bulk at center front, the pockets, the length, everything!!
2. Pattern is written for fulled fabrics or linen type (no facings vs. facings) which adds to its versatility.
3. I used facings but no interfacing except at neck edge as it seemed to take a lot of abuse during construction.
4. I trimmed off a long triangle at underarm of sleeve and side seam to eliminate some bulk and it worked well. Set the sleeve in instead of flat application.
5. Tried topstitching the sleeve seam allowance both directions to see if it laid differently with the drop shoulder but inconclusive results.
6. I applied the collar in one piece with a bias strip on top of seam and then rolled around and under seam allowance and stitched in ditch.
Luxe Sweatshirt
Sweatshirt fleece
Pinnacle Top/Sweater by Papercut
1. Intriqued by the triangles, I chose to color block the pattern. The versions without the top triangle got quite low and I wanted warmth.
2. Pattern is one big piece with no shoulder seam and then the two triangles. Would be fun with a stripe.
3. The instructions were well written and it all went together well.
4. It didn’t really flare out as it shows in pattern.
5. Was a little on the short side so added a hem band with diagonal slits. Used Solvy to keep the butted bands together during application to bottom of garment.
6. Copied the diagonal slits for the sleeve bands and put the slits opposite the sleeve seam and they ended up in a perfect place!
7. Doubled the width of the neck band for a little more coverage.
Skinny Pants
Peggy Sagers 4 Piece Yoga Pant
Beyond Yoga activewear knit
1. A great finishing touch to the other two garments.
2. Added a waistband instead of elastic sewn directly to top of pants.
December Garment Sewing Group via Zoom:
10:30 AM
Tuesday, December 8
Thursday, December 10
Saturday, December 12
Things didn’t change much under our new name-we still were inspired by everyone’s creativity and interest! People attended from Texas, Alaska and Florida! That’s the beauty of Zoom and why we intend to continue at least one Zoom meeting after we are back to normal (don’t go there 🙂
Garment Sewing Group
September 2020
Debbie’s Garments:
Coral Novelty Knit Casual Jacket-
NewLook 6251, View A
1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
2. Used mesh for pocket bags and cut 4 rather than 2 as pattern directs. I intended to increase pocket size to enable pocket bag to be caught in the stitching of hem and zipper but I forgot! Because of that the pockets needed to be topstitched to garment front.
3. I inserted invisible zippers in princess seam rather than exposed zipper at pocket as pattern directs. I also applied a contrast binding to zipper tape.
4. The fabric was difficult to work with. The serger chewed more than cut and the walking foot was necessary for all other stitching.
Kristin’s Cropped Rust Jacket and Debbie’s Navy Version-
Closet Core Sienna Maker Jacket, View C
Pendleton Wool
1. I did not make a muslin for this jacket but instead did my usual fitting adjustments.
2. I should’ve made a muslin – so I did before I made the second jacket. The new adjustments included shortening between shoulders and bust one inch, forward shoulder and narrow shoulder even though it is a drop sleeve.
3. The jacket is for the intermediate sewer and it is extremely important to follow instructions especially when making back placket and when to put buttonhole on sleeve!
4. I did make some changes in construction – interfaced pocket hems, did a single one inch hem rather than a double fold hem, and horizontal buttonholes on back placket rather than vertical.
5. I am very pleased with my second make and grateful to have a personal fit master. I was able to thank her with an almost finished Rust Sienna Jacket that fits her nicely!
6. Kristin’s addendum-As long as you have another body-you don’t need to make a muslin 🙂 I am very happy with my Sienna Maker Jacket! I added buttons and a one inch band to the sleeves with not too much left for a hem but it worked and will be a fun fall jacket. Thanks, Debbie!
Terracotta Water Wave Jacket-
Itch to Stitch Hvar Jacket
Soft Gauze Sweater Knit
1. I used the wrong fabric for this pattern accidentally! I had intended to use this fabric for another project and somehow got the two mixed up and didn’t discover my mistake until it was too late. Oh well.
2. The pattern calls for drapey woven or stable knit. The sweater knit did not fit that category so I adjusted by eliminating the darts and thinking of the garment as a sweater and not a jacket. I also shortened the length between shoulder and bust and went down a size by taking large seam allowances.
3. This is a quick and easy make. The entire garment was serged except for topstitching the princess seams. An afternoon make.
Kristin’s Garments:
Warmer Weather Fall Blouse
Cielo Top and Dress by Closet Core Patterns, View B
Rayon woven
1. I’ve made the dress before and knew that it was a bit broad at the neck and shoulders so placed center fronts and backs on fold but then rotated keeping waist point on the fold but making neck a bit smaller and hips wider. Kind of a quick fix but it worked very well.
2. The short yokes at the shoulder I cut four and doubled them to give a little more stability.
3. I tried it as a longer blouse but decided I like short better in this blouse.
4. Pattern directions great. I used contrast inside the lantern sleeve.
5. A vest with deep armholes would go nicely over this blouse-if it stays this cold!!
Fall Ankle Pants
Pietra Pants by Closet Core Patterns, View B
Light coral denim
1. Nice fitting pattern right out of the envelope. Extended the center back by curving seam allowances across back waistband and waist to 1/4” at center back and back to 5/8” at side seam.
2. Pockets take a little bit of puzzling but worth the work.
3. The treatment of the elastic and back waistband at side seams makes for a bit of bulkiness.
4. Back waistband also got a bit bulky as the pattern is high waisted and there’s a lot to gather. I stitched the elastic down and pressed it to try to flatten.
5. View B is a cropped length and View A is longer.
6. Fun fall pant until socks are a necessity.
Eileen Fisher Dress Copy
Jalie Nicole Dress and Top
Ponte knit
1. Thought the EF dress would be a great fall wardrobe staple but as I looked at the pattern measurements it became clear that it was a very close fitting pattern. So I sized up. Kind of nice that the pattern pieces for bodice and skirt are two separate pieces and then joined when you lay them on fabric to cut out.
2. First version (in red) was more body skimming than I wanted so I dropped the armhole, added at side seams and used a larger sleeve.
3. Second version is closer to what I was looking for. The bust dart is quite big and ends up pokey but I will most likely be wearing the dress under a jacket like my Sienna Maker Jacket by Debbie 🙂 and I’m not going to stress about it. I already spent the better part of a day trying to remedy the problem and ended up extending the dart by 1/2” and giving it a good press!
October Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:
Thursday,October 8, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville
Saturday, October 10, 10:30 at Treadle , St. Paul
Tuesday, October 13, 10:30 at Treadle, St. Paul
