Oh. My. Goodness! Thursday and Saturday were such great meetings-can’t wait to see what tomorrow at Sewing Lounge brings! And Maggy has worked really hard to find chairs and a comfortable arrangement for all of us.
Let’s get to some photos!
Squeaking in on the last day of May…for June meeting dates and locations, please scroll to end of post-
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the hem length by 2 inches – whoops – it feels a little too short.
2. I did a serged “bias” neck finish instead of turning under neck edge twice and topstitching as pattern directs. I also eliminated the side slit.
3. Fun, easy make that can be casual or dressy, depending on fabric choice.
1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as shortening hem length.
2. I added a neckband rather than folding neck edge to ws and top stitching. Also added cuffs to again avoid turning hem to inside and topstitching.
3. This is a TNT pattern for me. I like how it fits, there are several looks and it is a great scrap buster.
1. I tried to copy a RTW garment and did fairly well except I wish I would have used very light batting instead of flannel. It is not as soft as RTW garment.
2. Besides my standard petite adjustments I straightened the CF so the fronts meet, not overlap.
3. For construction: stitch side fronts to fronts for main fabric, batting and lining. Follow same procedure for CB seam. Quilt front, back and sleeves using walking foot and 1/2 vertical rows at 3.0 stitch length. Jacket is then serged together.
4. I added a contrast band for CF and hemmed sleeves and bottom with bias strip bands.
5. The RTW version added buttons and buttonholes – I did not.
6. It was a good project to work on during our cold spring but I am done with quilting for a long time now!
1. To redesign the pattern I eliminated the side seam and made the back and wedge one piece allowing for sa and placket folds. Later I added a placket to button edge because my math was incorrect! A two inch length of fabric was pressed wst and serged to rst of shirt back side seam.
2. On the side fronts I added 1 inch plus sa for button hole placket. The placket edges were clean finished, pressed to ws and top stitched.
3. The back hem is longer by one inch.
4. I did make buttonholes but really not necessary.
5. This became more of a chore than I planned on and I realize now I should have just bought the Love Notions pattern!
Kristin’s Garments
1. Quick to sew with raglan sleeves. Bust dart is a plus.
2. As with most popular patterns of this type, the neck is on the larger end of spectrum.
3. I took it in 3/8” along shoulder dart and through sleeve as it seemed a bit low under arms also.
4. Neck band also seemed long but bias binding can stretch when pressed so follow pattern directions and adjust as needed.
1. Eliminated center back seam. Added back darts.
2. Eliminated skirt lining because scuba hung nicely without. Turned under underarms and stitched to make up for lack of lining.
3. Like the fit and the way it went together.
4. Omitted the trim down the side seams as wool knit was thick.
5. Disappointed with fusible interfacing results around decorative neck hole. Glued too well.
6. Hole in front yoke fussy but a fun detail.
1. Made the first version in a medium and that was too small so tried XL and that was much better except bust was big so took shaping out of front bust area.
2. Tried elastic trim for neckline (floral version) and band per pattern (solid version).
3. Lots of options-higher neckline and lower (solid knit was in between), pleated front and plain front, 3 sleeve lengths and a children’s version (separate purchase).
June 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, June 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Thursday, June 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, June 11, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
We waited till May to avoid late snowstorms and instead we got heavy rain and road construction! But everyone got there safely and showed some great warmer weather garments. We are so grateful that you all love to meet together!!
Thursday will be Garment Sewing Group and Fabric Swap at 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington and then Saturday at Treadle Yard Goods-come and join the fun and creativity.
Judging from the photos we have a pretty good time at our meetings! We had a large group at the Sewing Lounge and then a LARGE group of free fabric at First Sewing-and many people went home with a bagful 🙂
Thanks for being there!! Lots of new faces and a few we hadn’t seen for some time…
Debbie’s Garments:
Purple Print Empire Waist Dress
Itch to Stitch Recoleta Dress
Linen
1. Did not do any petite adjustments but shortened length 3 inches.
2. I felt the print needed to be broken up a bit so I added piping around neckband- not fun.
3. Adding a zipper is optional but I disagree with that. Even with zipper I find the dress difficult to put on and take off.
4. I have a difficult time choosing what size to make when using Itch to Stitch patterns. They seem to run large on bodice but smaller at hips. I am sure it is just me but I think I will stay away from this brand for awhile .
Soft Coral Print Cut On Sleeve Blouse
Melody Dolman by Love Notions
Rayon Lawn
1. I did my petite adjustments between shoulder and bust, bust and waist and shortened one inch at hem.
2. I used the one piece collar method from Louise Cutting for collar. It eliminates seams at collar edge. I also softened the shirt tail curve on hem.
3. The directions for inside collar are good, easy and quick and eliminates slipstitching.
4. I feel the blouse fits nice but next time, depending on fabric choice, I would XS shoulders to medium at hips.
5. There will be a next time. Love Notions patterns work well for me.
Oatmeal/Coral Print Sweatshirt
Simplicity 9229
95% Cotton 5% Spandex French Terry 4-way stretch
1. I made this tee last year and was pleased with it. The angled front design line is showing up everywhere so with a few changes I am already thinking of my next make using this pattern.
2. I did my standard petite adjustments.
3. I extended the short sleeve into long sleeve length .
4. I topstitched the angle seam for contrast.
Coral Joggers
Jalie Vanessa Joggers
Cotton
1. A TNT pattern that I make often.
2.The changes I make from the original pattern is a one piece waistband without the drawstring feature and no fly front detail.
Kristin’s Garments
Golf Dress
Simplicity 9328
Poly/lycra knit
1. Looking for sun protection and comfort. Quarter zip was pretty straightforward-reinforce the area with interfacing, stitch over stitching line, clip to inside corners, sew each side of zipper and tuck in the triangle at bottom.
2. Pattern called for sewing ribbon to the inside of zipper but used bias strip instead-easier to stitch to raw edge and pressed easily for less bulk.
3. Pattern called for stitching one band on then turning under edges of other and topstitching but with chosen fabric I serged the whole band on and topstitched seam allowance down.
Cold Sewing Day Sweater
Jalie Romy Pattern
Wool knit remnants
1. Very quick sew with only two pattern pieces (sleeve and front/back) and because of that the fit at the neck could use a good forward shoulder adjustment.
2. Instead of adding band, I cut pattern longer to equal band and made a deep hem.
3. Underarm curve and sleeve is to pattern.
4. Funnel neck is nice and their technique of sewing the seam allowances together to keep neck in place is a technique I will use again.
Faux Wrap Skirt (pictured above and below)
New Look 6646
Stretch woven
1. Not enough fabric to make the wrap to pattern and didn’t really want the free swinging wrap anyway.
2. Cut the front 2.5” wider and stitched a 1.25” pleat in the position of the wrap hem.
3. Basic straight skirt with back darts. Omitted the waistband and stitched on elastic.
Peplum Sweater Jacket
Burda 6293
Ponte
1. Loved the photo so had to give it a try. Instead of facings and linings I added a band at the neck and a band at center fronts so I had overlap for closure.
2. Lots of seams for knit but a fun adventure in fitting.
3. Lighter weight ponte was perfect fabric choice.
May 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, May 11, 10:30, Ginny’s in Rochester
Thursday, May 12, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, May 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
It’s tomorrow (Thursday, April 14) at First Sewing, Bloomington and there’s going to be ALOT of fabric to swap!!!! Please come and take some. Somebody was moving… There will be some diamonds and some duds but it’s all free and going to Goodwill by 4 pm.
There will also be great sewing inspiration! Here’s what we saw at the Sewing Lounge Wednesday. There were 27 people and we stood on a chair so all could see-but we had a great time 🙂 Thanks for keeping on keeping on.
Please join us!
Saturday, April 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, April 13, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, April 14, First Sewing, Bloomington AND FABRIC SWAP!
And keeping up with last month’s meeting-
Debbie’s Garments:
1. Made petite adjustment between shoulder and bust and shortened length by one inch.
2. I reversed construction technique for button placket to add contrast interest.
3. Also did burrito roll for yoke rather than slipstitch method.
4. Since my first make from this pattern was the gathered view I wanted to try the other view and I am very glad I did and will probably make it again.
1. Made my standard petite adjustments but did not shorten length.
2. Due to lack of fabric and one way design I cut apart the back to create a lined yoke and used contrast fabric for facing.
3. I like how this pattern is relaxed and yet isn’t too oversized. A fun make that I will do agin.
1. Using my remnants and copying RTW, I was able to make my favorite tunic pattern.
2. I cut apart front, back and sleeves, added seam allowance and carefully constructed the boatneck. The most difficult part was adapting the white upper sleeve because it couldn’t be cut straight across at the hem. Once I figured out that I added a coral rectangle to the upper sleeve and placed the the sleeve pattern onto of fabric to get the shape of the sleeve correct. Then I was able to determine the length of the coral section and added the bottom lavender potion. All this was done while the body of the tee was on my mannequin. Whew – not as easy as I thought.
3. The construction of the boatneck and side slits are very good and not at all difficult.
4. This is a TNT pattern with so many options – I will be making more.
1. Still making use of remnants I was able to gain more storage space for new fabric and have fun tee to wear. Its a win win!
2. The cotton jersey is easy to work with, the viscose not so much.
3. Another TNT pattern that I will using again with or without remnants.
Kristin’s Garments
1. Made to pattern to get an idea of fit. It is unisex so quite oversized but all the pics I saw were drop shoulder at least.
2. Glad that I chose a stripe for the neck to see how it worked. All pieces went together perfectly. Turning corners as in Tabor Vee and worked like a charm.
3. Whacked off lots of fabric but pleased with the results. Not quite what I was hoping for in the end but I have a great pattern piece to hack on to a better fitting tunic.
1. Moved bust dart and widened at hip but otherwise great shoulders and all.
2. Wish I would have matched vertical stripes!
3. Sleeves were supposed to be cinched with a band-more trench coat-like. Tapered instead.
Helmi Trench Blouse and Dress by Named
1. Same fit adjustments. Very happy with results. I have added 2” to skirt length.
1. The Nicole pattern has a bodice piece and skirt piece that is to be joined when you cut it out but I had these two fabrics as remnants and have always wanted them together. Perfect opportunity!
2. Neckband has been shortened by 1/4” (1/2” total).
3. Faux pockets added to accommodate a flaw in the fabric discovered only after unfolding the already cut out skirt piece.
April 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, April 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, April 13, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, April 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Garment Sewing Group Meetings (all at 10:30):
Treadle Yard Goods, Wednesday, Feb. 9
First Sewing (and Fabric Swap), Thursday, Feb. 10
Treadle Yard Goods, Saturday, Feb. 12
And some of what you may have missed in January-
Garment Sewing Group
January 2022
Debbie’s Garments:
Navy Sheath Dress with Leather Trim
1. Did several shortening petite adjustments as well as straightening side seam at hip area – too curvy for me.
2. I did not want the leather yoke against my skin so I basted the leather piece on top of dress front and treated it as one piece.
3. I used very light interfacing on front facings, under stitched the back facing and stitched in the ditch at shoulders to secure facing to dress.
4. Glue stick, quilt clips and a leather sewing machine needle made sewing the leather a breeze. A fun project!
Navy Blazer with Leather Faux Welt Pocket
1.I enjoyed making the Shawl Collar Metra Blazer last spring so I thought I would give the Lapel version a try. I also had some leather left over from the Tessa sheath which could add just a bit more style to a fun topper.
2. I did not use any interfacing and because my machine did not like sewing on the ponte I used Steam a Seam for sleeves and jacket hems.
Purple Print with Rib Jacket
1. Although I admire Linda Lee’s work and products I hesitate to use her patterns because so many are oversized – not my jam. However when I saw reviews for her bomber jacket I couldn’t resist. I did my standard petite adjustments and dove into constructing the jacket.
2. I did not interface facing – pattern does not suggest using it. I did stabilize zipper seam allowances – not part of pattern instructions.
3. Step #9 is a bit confusing because the dot on the pattern is not labeled. The sleeves are set in but I did flat construction. The back collar is supposed to be slip stitched but I machine stitched. I was surprised at the lack of the finishing construction details such as stitching in the ditch or topstitching.
Kristin’s Garments:
Black Leggings
Stitch Upon a Time Ursula Leggings/Black cotton/spandex jersey
1. Made a size XL to pattern with the gusset (still perfecting the stitching of gussets:) Made the Midrise version-very good fit with the stretch of my fabric. Skinny at ankles, crotch length great. Very much a legging pattern in this knit-no bags or wrinkles.
2. Pattern also includes yoga and maternity waistband and a sewn in skirt.
Tabor Vest Plus
1. I wanted to make another Tabor but wanted something longer so I hacked the bottom section of the Annika Top in a contrasting wool.
2. I can’t say enough about the vee on the Tabor. First time worked perfectly.
3. Topstitched to keep seams flat.
Quilted Vest
1. The pattern only gives directions for using prequilted fabric so I went to the Tamarack Jacket from Grainline Studio for more specifics.
2. FibreMood patterns must be traced and seam allowance added. Directions were clear.
3. Fabric sandwiches were quilted as cut-if I did it again I would cut everything bigger. I lost about a quarter of an inch, which isn’t bad.
4. All seams were hong kong finished.
5. The back neck seam was tall and pushed my head forward (muslin did not show this) so I opened the seam and added a triangle before finishing the outer edges.
6. Belt is to be quilted but because the fabric was already pleated, I omitted this.
7. I cut one inch off hem because one of the fabrics was short.
Clemence Top
1. The fun shoulders called to me and I answered 🙂
2. Shoulder cap is square, sewn together and triangle folded to shoulder edge.
3. Neck band was on the short side.
4. I eliminated the hem band and added for a longer tee.
5. Nicely drafted.
Our Friday full of snow put a damper on Saturday’s attendance but Rosemary did her best to be the audience 🙂
Garment Sewing Group
December 2021
Debbie’s Garments:
Stripe Tunic
Terra Tunic Funnel Neck by Love Notions
French terry
1. The most difficult aspect to this make is deciding which view to make.
2. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the length two inches.
3. Fun, easy, quick make-perfect for warming up on cold days.
Blouse with Ruffles and Bling
McCalls 6750, View C with adaptations (OOP)
Cotton with metallic stripes.
1.I Did standard petite adjustments and shortened one inch below waist.
2. This pattern is from from 2013 so I did make some design/construction changes.
3. To achieve the V neck I removed the collar portion of the blouse front and facing. I also reduced facing width and I did not use any interfacing in the garment.
4. I narrowed the cuff width and converted to a two piece cuff with the ws of fabric against my skin thinking that would be more comfortable but it wasn’t necessary because the metallic threads are very soft. I also used the ws of facing against my skin – not necessary.
5. I narrowed the sleeve cap 1/4” from front notch to 1/2” at shoulder to 1/4 at back notch.
6. I cut 2 1/2 “ strips for ruffle and gathered them using the serger set at 2 for differential feed and 4 for stitch length.
7. To construct the blouse I used the sewing machine, serger and french seams.
Burgundy Holiday Topper
Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio
Cotton/lycra cotton stretch velveteen
1. I have made this blazer before but this time I wanted to line it. The pattern is unlined so I needed to work that out – a little bit of a challenge.
2. I thought about making a two-piece sleeve as suggested in pattern reviews to remove drag lines from the sleeve but that didn’t work out for me.
3. The facing is interfaced with stretch going up and down, not around – another hint from pattern reviewers. It may have made a difference in facing drape but I think the lining took care of that.
4. I lengthened the sleeves by 2 inches.
5. I made piping and applied to the lining edge using a zipper foot. All other construction was done with a walking foot.
`Kristin’s Garments:
Winter Vanessas
Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants 3676
Tropical weight wool
Kristin’s Garments, continued
1. No ankle cuffs this time around. Wool is just right for indoor wear, I washed it and it fluffed up a bit.
2. Great basic, comfy pant.
Winter Hudson Joggers
Hudson Pant by True/Bias
Activewear knit
1. Summer joggers have pilled so time for another pair (they are go to pants!)
2. Love the pockets-everything about the pattern.
Winter Basic Dress
Jalie Nicole Shift Dress 3903
Ponte
1. This mock tee dress is the bomb. Throw a sweater over it or a jacket-many looks.
2. I went up a size in the sleeve as it’s a bit snug and lowered bust darts.
3. Mock turtle neck is to pattern.
Designer Jacket
Merchant & Mills Landgate
Moleskin/flannel back satin/outerwear print
1. I had dreams!! Wanted a jacket to layer over fleece, look cool 🙂 Love the fabrics.
2. Underlined the jacket so it would hang well which made for a few interesting changes but went fairly smoothly.
3. Chopped off the hood as I knew I didn’t want it-glad I did.
4. Pretty cool construction of the front neck/yoke pieces.
5. All lot of work, in the end but other than the monster neck-which may relax over time?? I’m pretty happy with it.
Designer Joggers (Snowpants) -see photo above
Sew House Seven Free Range Pants-tapered version
Pre-quilted and self quilted fabrics
1. Just got sucked in by designer snowpants but fun to construct and figure out.
2. Made the lining first to check out fit-wanted them a bit fluffier for outdoor activities.
3. Serged the pieces together with only batting behind fabric, worked out much better than I hoped.
4. Really great pattern/style choice as there weren’t many seams to match up.
5. Used activewear knit for waistband and ankle bands.
January 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, January 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, January 12, 10;30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, January 13, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!
December’s meetings are:
Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle
Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)
Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.
Hope to see you!!
First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!
Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…
Debbie’s Garments:
Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt
Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt
1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.
2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.
3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .
This make was a little slow but well worth it.
Teal/Green Cardigan
New Look 6735, View A
Luxury Plush Rib Knit
1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.
2. This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.
3. I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.
Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.
Two Stash Buster Tees:
Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical Tee
McCalls 7247
Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit
1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.
Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top
Jalie Dolman Top 3352
French Terry
1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.
I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.
2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.
Kristin’s Garments:
Fall Trend: Sweater Vest
Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck
Sweater knit with fleece backing
1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!
2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.
3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.
4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!
Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse
Simplicity 9231
Rayon woven
1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.
2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.
3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.
4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.
Sweater Vest
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven
Bulky cotton sweater knit
1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck
2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.
3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.
3. Constructed per pattern.
4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.
One Thing Led to Another
Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan
Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above
1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.
2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!
Funnel Neck Dress
Burda 6080
Ponte stripe
1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.
2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.
3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.
November Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Material Girl Sewing 