December Garment Sewing Group

Our Friday full of snow put a damper on Saturday’s attendance but Rosemary did her best to be the audience 🙂

Simplicity 8556 in Treadle cotton

Garment Sewing Group

December 2021

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Stripe Tunic

Terra Tunic Funnel Neck by Love Notions

French terry

1. The most difficult aspect to this make is deciding which view to make.

2. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the length two inches.

3. Fun, easy, quick make-perfect for warming up on cold days.

Blouse with Ruffles and Bling

McCalls 6750, View C with adaptations (OOP)

Cotton with metallic stripes.

1.I Did standard petite adjustments and shortened one inch below waist.

2. This pattern is from from 2013 so I did make some design/construction changes.

3. To achieve the V neck I removed the collar portion of the blouse front and facing. I also reduced facing width and I did not use any interfacing in the garment.

4. I narrowed the cuff width and converted to a two piece cuff with the ws of fabric against my skin thinking that would be more comfortable but it wasn’t necessary because the metallic threads are very soft. I also used the ws of facing against my skin – not necessary.

5. I narrowed the sleeve cap 1/4” from front notch to 1/2” at shoulder to 1/4 at back notch.

6. I cut 2 1/2 “ strips for ruffle and gathered them using the serger set at 2 for differential feed and 4 for stitch length.

7. To construct the blouse I used the sewing machine, serger and french seams.

Burgundy Holiday Topper

Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio

Cotton/lycra cotton stretch velveteen

1. I have made this blazer before but this time I wanted to line it.  The pattern is unlined so I needed to work that out – a little bit of a challenge.

2. I thought about making a two-piece sleeve as suggested in pattern reviews to remove drag lines from the sleeve but that didn’t work out for me.

3. The facing is interfaced with stretch going up and down, not around – another hint from pattern reviewers. It may have made a difference in facing drape but I think the lining took care of that.

4. I lengthened the sleeves by 2 inches.

5. I made piping and applied to the lining edge using a zipper foot. All other construction was done with a walking foot.

`Kristin’s Garments:

Winter Vanessas

Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants 3676

Tropical weight wool

Kristin’s Garments, continued

1. No ankle cuffs this time around. Wool is just right for indoor wear, I washed it and it fluffed up a bit.

2. Great basic, comfy pant.

Winter Hudson Joggers

Hudson Pant by True/Bias

Activewear knit

1. Summer joggers have pilled so time for another pair (they are go to pants!)

2. Love the pockets-everything about the pattern.

Winter Basic Dress

Jalie Nicole Shift Dress 3903

Ponte

1. This mock tee dress is the bomb. Throw a sweater over it or a jacket-many looks.

2. I went up a size in the sleeve as it’s a bit snug and lowered bust darts.

3. Mock turtle neck is to pattern.

Designer Jacket

Merchant & Mills Landgate

Moleskin/flannel back satin/outerwear print

1. I had dreams!! Wanted a jacket to layer over fleece, look cool 🙂 Love the fabrics.

2. Underlined the jacket so it would hang well which made for a few interesting changes but went fairly smoothly.

3. Chopped off the hood as I knew I didn’t want it-glad I did.

4. Pretty cool construction of the front neck/yoke pieces.

5. All lot of work, in the end but other than the monster neck-which may relax over time?? I’m pretty happy with it.

Designer Joggers (Snowpants) -see photo above

Sew House Seven Free Range Pants-tapered version

Pre-quilted and self quilted fabrics

1. Just got sucked in by designer snowpants but fun to construct and figure out.

2. Made the lining first to check out fit-wanted them a bit fluffier for outdoor activities.

3. Serged the pieces together with only batting behind fabric, worked out much better than I hoped.

4. Really great pattern/style choice as there weren’t many seams to match up.

5. Used activewear knit for waistband and ankle bands.

January 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, January 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, January 12, 10;30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, January 13, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

More November Inspiration

November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!

December’s meetings are:

Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle

Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)

Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.

Hope to see you!!

Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing Workshop
And then there were two…
Light and Shadows from Cutting Line Designs
A chic thriftstore upcycle
An oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!

October Garment Sewing Group

First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!

Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…

Debbie’s Garments:

Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt

Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt

1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.

2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.

3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .

This make was a little slow but well worth it.

Teal/Green Cardigan

New Look 6735, View A

Luxury Plush Rib Knit

1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.

2.  This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.

3.  I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.

Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.

Two Stash Buster Tees:

Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical  Tee

McCalls 7247

Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit

1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.

Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top

Jalie Dolman Top 3352

French Terry

1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.

     I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.

2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.

Kristin’s Garments:

Fall Trend: Sweater Vest

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck

Sweater knit with fleece backing

1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!

2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.

3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.

4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!

Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse

Simplicity 9231

Rayon woven

1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.

2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.

3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.

4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.

Sweater Vest

Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven

Bulky cotton sweater knit

1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck

2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.

3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.

3. Constructed per pattern.

4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.

One Thing Led to Another

Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan

Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above

1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.

2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!

Funnel Neck Dress

Burda 6080

Ponte stripe

1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.

2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.

3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.

November Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Fabric Swap, Anyone?

Our last October meeting is tomorrow (Thursday) at First Sewing and we’re going to try a fabric swap.

GOT FABRIC? WANT FABRIC? Bring it to the Garment Sewing Group meeting at 10:30 am. We’re not going to charge money or anything, leave your fabric or take it back home-patterns, notions, anything sewing related.

Here are photos from Saturday (Treadle) and Wednesday (Ginny’s)-

September meetings start Wednesday/Inspiration from August

Looking forward to seeing what everyone’s been sewing! Meetings start at 10:30 on Wednesday, September 8th at The Sewing Lounge, 987 Selby Av., St. Paul, (there was a typo in my last email).

Then we’ll be at First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday at 10:30 and follow up with Sew Social from 1-4 pm.

Saturday’s meeting will be at Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am.

And a few pics from last month—

A great way to narrow a pant leg
Harrington Jacket

February Garment Sewing Group

Another great month with our first challenge Sew Your Roll. See photos and end of post. Next month’s Sew Your Roll is PINK, BRIGHT, CUFFS.

March is here-any spring sewing yet??

Debbie’s Garments

Quilted Jacket

Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket, View A

Chambray with rayon lining

1. Petite between shoulder and bust but did not shorten length.

2. Quilted horizontal lines 3 inches apart rather than 3.5 as pattern directs.

3. Made bias tape and bound the shoulder and side seams as well as outside edges.

*I am  a little late to the party since this pattern debuted in 2016. Before I started this project I checked out galleries and reviews and thought I would give it a try. I love my fabrics but not a fan of the pattern for the following reasons:

-welt and pocket bag instructions make procedure more difficult and messy than necessary

-too many “homemade” construction details

-quilting jacket and then lining would be a better option in my opinion.

Hvar Water Fall Jacket Tee Shirt Remake (worn under jacket)

I did not like the jacket but really liked the fabric so I made a tee that will get a lot more wear.

Classic Pajamas

Closet Case Carolyn Pajama, View A

Seafoam green print rayon

Another late to the party pattern for me!

1. Standard petite adjustments on top.  Shortened legs 1 inch between waist and hip and between hip and hem. Also removed 3 inches from hem.

2. Tapered inseam and outside leg seams from knee to hem.

3. Made contrasting piping.

4. Really liked the pocket bag for bottoms.

5. Collar and neck is putsy and this is stated in the instructions. Their reason is for that is eliminating a back neck facing. A homemade look in my opinion.

6. On the pattern envelope View A does not have pipping and cuffs, View B does. The illustrations are the opposite on direction sheet.

I love the fabric but not a fan of the pattern.

Kristin’s Garments:

A little bit of fun with the collar stripes

Bells of Bells & Whistles, Sewing Workshop

Cotton stripe

1. Resurrected this pattern from a bucket of UFO’s. Pattern reissued in 2017.

2. Collar manipulated to make best use of stripes. Had fun playing with stripes.

3. Instructions suggested no interfacing so I didn’t. Happy with results.

4. Omitted the flowing tie and cut off center placket at hem instead of dangling.

5. Fairly close fitting for a Sewing Workshop pattern.

Easy Wear/Easy Sew Shirt

Holiday Shirt by Makers Atelier

Gingham linen

1. Was hoping for a faux pajama shirt without the fuss of buttons, both in sewing and wearing.

2. Made to pattern but didn’t like the yoke or collar techniques-fussy.

3. Boxy fit but slim sleeve. Liked the collar.

Easy Wear/Easy Sew Shirt #2

Holiday Shirt from Makers Atelier combined with Now Shirt by Sewing Workshop

Mammoth flannel by Robert Kaufman

1. Cut fronts and backs from Now Shirt.

2. Used sleeves and collar from Holiday Shirt (Now Shirt has a very flat sleeve head-Holiday shirt sleeve head is high).

3. Recut center fronts to have 1” seam allowance which continued to collar.

4. Really pleased with the “New” Shirt.

Knit Joggers

Ruby Joggers by Paprika Patterns

Rayon french terry

1. Made to pattern and then cut down waist by 1”.

2. Techniques great and pattern well drafted. Pattern suggests 10-20% stretch. Stretchier fabric (like mine) can get a little wavy on cross grain seams.

3. Elastic went all the way around because knit was stretchy as directions suggested.

Sew Your Roll-does “garment” override “no bags”? Sewing up UFO’s is definitely within the spirit of the challenge 🙂

Garment Bag copied from a suit bag

Debbie’s challenge garment was a tee to match her new pajamas-

March 2021 Garment Sewing Group

Tuesday, March 9, 10:30

Thursday, March 11, 10:30

Saturday, March13, 10:30

January Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s been working overtime this month thinking of things to keep our interest up during the long winter months. We started a “Sew Your Roll” challenge! Our first attempts were fun (after a little initial whining 🙂 The rules are listed at the end of the post.

Next month’s challenge will be white, shiny and contrast! Yes, more whining but that’s how the dice rolled/cookie crumbles. Give it a shot-win $10 gift certificate at Treadle if your name is drawn.

We also reinstated our practice of drawing a name from those of you that have a project to show. Your name will be entered as many times as you attend in a month and you will get free admittance the next month if your name is drawn!

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy Blazer

Jasika Jacket, Closet Core Pattens

Wool Flannel, Rayon Lining

I have been  thinking about a tailored jacket for awhile. Once the pandemic hit I felt now is the time. 

I gathered all my fabric and supplies and started the jacket in November and finished just before Christmas. A slow and Therapeutic Sew!

1. Made a muslin and did basic adjustments.

2. The pattern is well drafted and the instructions are excellent.

3. Modern tailoring techniques and supplies are used with just the right amount of hand stitching.  It was a great experience for me.

Navy Classic Dot Shirt

Kwik Sew 3555

Same rayon used for lining of jacket

1. My favorite classic shirt pattern. However I found that the pattern is a bit outdated in fit and collar size so I may be on the lookout for a new TNT shirt pattern.

Green/Teal Shawl Coatigan

Loren Jacket by Style Arc

Double faced Wool Knit

1. Tested various preshrinking techniques and found that placing the wool in the dryer with a damp towel gave me the results I was looking  for.

2. Did my standard fitting adjustments.

3. Tested several seam techniques on scraps and went with stitching the seams with the sewing machine, press open and topstitch on each side.

8. Also tested several edge finishes and went with edge stitching cut edges and then top stitching 1/4” from edge stitch.

9. The patch pockets are underlined with silk for a smooth finish.

10. Another therapeutic sewing project.

Sew and Roll Challenge-Iris Tee by Forget Me Not Patterns, Rayon Jersey

1. When sewing the cuff to the sleeve I left a small opening about an inch in length to add a tie to the cuff of each sleeve to add the detail for my roll!

Color-Tan

Shade-Neutral (white, black, grays, browns)

Detail- Tie

Kristin’s Garments:

Right side out version
Inside out version

Sew Your Roll Challenge

Neige Sweater-Deer and Doe

Assorted blends of sweater knit

  1. Chose a mashup of views-longer length, wide stand up collar and no cuffs.
  2. Arranged fabrics for a reversible option.
  3. Serged seams to accentuate “Michelin man” arms.
  4. Added binding to hem for reversibility.
  5. Pattern well drafted and instructions good. Separate booklet for English and French

Yoga Sweatshirt

Oliver Pattern from Seamwork

Activewear fabric

  1. Closer fit through shoulder and bust.
  2. Added a band as it was just a bit short.
  3. Added subtle accents with flatlock stitching on serger.
  4. Reversed the fabric for another subtle accent.

Wool Sweater

Talvikki Sweater from Named Patterns

Wool sweater knit

  1. Neck darts were easier than expected. Like the accent at face level.
  2. Neck facing is activewear knit (pattern called for stretch interfacing so I thought it would do nicely as neck must stretch some to get over head.
  3. Sleeves were large and underarm low so took in and raised 2”.
  4. Side seam vents were a bit high so lowered 2”.

Sew Your Roll Garment Challenge

Rules – follow the color, shade and detail

Garments only please – No bags or Masks

Make something for yourself or others

Use up your stash, re-fashion previous make or even a RTW

Purchase new fabric from a different source than usual

Have Fun!

Color: 1. Can’t be rolled 2. Pink 3. White 4. Purple 5. Black 6. Blue 7. Teal 8. Green 9. Red 10. Yellow 11. Gray 12. Orange

Shade: 1. Can’t be rolled 2. Dark 3. Earthy 4. Pastel. 5. Neon 6. Print 7. Bright 8. Sheer 9. Muted 10. Solid 11. Neutral 12. Pick Your Own

Detail 1. Can’t be rolled 2. Ruffle 3. Cut out 4. Asymmetric 5.Cuffs 6. Buttons 7. Bow 8. Color Block 9. Lace insert 10. Puff Sleeve 11. Contrast 12. Pocket

February 2021 Garment Sewing Group via Zoom

Tuesday, February 9, 10:30

Thursday, February 11, 10:30

Saturday, February 13, 10:30