A Great Day at Ginny’s

We waited till May to avoid late snowstorms and instead we got heavy rain and road construction! But everyone got there safely and showed some great warmer weather garments. We are so grateful that you all love to meet together!!

Thursday will be Garment Sewing Group and Fabric Swap at 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington and then Saturday at Treadle Yard Goods-come and join the fun and creativity.

Trio Top/Sewing Workhop and Barry Pant/StyleArc
London Shirt/Sewing Workshop
Noto Tee, Hudson Pant, Sterling Jacket-all Sewing Workshop
OOP Butterick Jean Jacket
Jacket/Vogue 1975 Barcelona Dress/Maven Patterns
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop
Fabric selection by Ginny
Machine embroidery

April Garments

Judging from the photos we have a pretty good time at our meetings! We had a large group at the Sewing Lounge and then a LARGE group of free fabric at First Sewing-and many people went home with a bagful 🙂

Thanks for being there!! Lots of new faces and a few we hadn’t seen for some time…

Debbie’s Garments:

Purple Print Empire Waist Dress

Itch to Stitch Recoleta Dress

Linen

1. Did not do any petite adjustments but shortened length 3 inches.

2. I felt the print needed to be broken up a bit so I added piping around neckband- not fun.

3. Adding a zipper is optional but I disagree with that. Even with zipper I find the dress difficult to put on and take off.

4. I have a difficult time choosing what size to make when using Itch to Stitch patterns. They seem to run large on bodice but smaller at hips. I am sure it is just me but I think I will stay away from this brand for awhile .

Soft Coral Print Cut On Sleeve Blouse

Melody Dolman by Love Notions

Rayon Lawn

1. I did my petite adjustments between shoulder and bust, bust and waist and shortened one inch at hem.

2. I used the one piece collar method from Louise Cutting for collar. It eliminates seams at collar edge. I also softened the shirt tail curve on hem.

3. The directions for inside collar are good, easy and quick and eliminates slipstitching.

4. I feel the blouse fits nice but next time, depending on fabric choice, I would XS shoulders to medium at hips.

5. There will be a next time. Love Notions patterns work well for me.

Oatmeal/Coral Print Sweatshirt

Simplicity 9229

95% Cotton 5% Spandex French Terry 4-way stretch

1. I made this tee last year and was pleased with it. The angled front design line is showing up everywhere so with a few changes I am already thinking of my next make using this pattern.

2. I did my standard petite adjustments.

3. I extended the short sleeve into long sleeve length .

4. I topstitched the angle seam for contrast.

Both are wearing the Vanessa Joggers

Coral Joggers

Jalie Vanessa Joggers

Cotton

1. A TNT pattern that I make often.

2.The changes I make from the original pattern is a one piece waistband without the drawstring feature and no fly front detail.

Kristin’s Garments

Golf Dress

Simplicity 9328

Poly/lycra knit

1. Looking for sun protection and comfort. Quarter zip was pretty straightforward-reinforce the area with interfacing, stitch over stitching line, clip to inside corners, sew each side of zipper and tuck in the triangle at bottom.

2. Pattern called for sewing ribbon to the inside of zipper but used bias strip instead-easier to stitch to raw edge and pressed easily for less bulk.

3. Pattern called for stitching one band on then turning under edges of other and topstitching but with chosen fabric I serged the whole band on and topstitched seam allowance down.

Cold Sewing Day Sweater

Jalie Romy Pattern

Wool knit remnants

1. Very quick sew with only two pattern pieces (sleeve and front/back) and because of that the fit at the neck could use a good forward shoulder adjustment.

2. Instead of adding band, I cut pattern longer to equal band and made a deep hem.

3. Underarm curve and sleeve is to pattern.

4. Funnel neck is nice and their technique of sewing the seam allowances together to keep neck in place is a technique I will use again.

Faux Wrap Skirt (pictured above and below)

New Look 6646

Stretch woven

1. Not enough fabric to make the wrap to pattern and didn’t really want the free swinging wrap anyway.

2. Cut the front 2.5” wider and stitched a 1.25” pleat in the position of the wrap hem.

3. Basic straight skirt with back darts. Omitted the waistband and stitched on elastic.

Peplum Sweater Jacket

Burda 6293

Ponte

1. Loved the photo so had to give it a try. Instead of facings and linings I added a band at the neck and a band at center fronts so I had overlap for closure.

2. Lots of seams for knit but a fun adventure in fitting.

3. Lighter weight ponte was perfect fabric choice.

May 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, May 11, 10:30, Ginny’s in Rochester

Thursday, May 12, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, May 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

One More April Meeting

It’s tomorrow (Thursday, April 14) at First Sewing, Bloomington and there’s going to be ALOT of fabric to swap!!!! Please come and take some. Somebody was moving… There will be some diamonds and some duds but it’s all free and going to Goodwill by 4 pm.

There will also be great sewing inspiration! Here’s what we saw at the Sewing Lounge Wednesday. There were 27 people and we stood on a chair so all could see-but we had a great time 🙂 Thanks for keeping on keeping on.

Spring cotton knit pj’s-Madison Top and Joggers-Sewing Workshop
Flynn Jacket-In the Folds and Peplum Top-Peppermint Magazine
Perfectly matched pockets-Simplicity 9479
OOP Marcy Tilton-still a winner!
Blanca Flight Suit X 2-Closet Core Patterns
Nova Sweatshirt-Sinclair Patterns
Tabor Vee-Sew House Seven and another Madison Jogger-Sewing Workshop
Sterling Jacket-Sewing Workshop
Simplicity 9229
Tallinn Sweater-Hey June
Mary Poppins Bag

April Garment Sewing Group Meetings Begin Saturday

Please join us!

Saturday, April 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, April 13, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, April 14, First Sewing, Bloomington AND FABRIC SWAP!

And keeping up with last month’s meeting-

Debbie’s Garments:

Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress, Cotton

1. Made petite adjustment between shoulder and bust and shortened length by one inch.

2. I reversed construction technique for button placket to add contrast interest.

3. Also did burrito roll for yoke rather than slipstitch method.

4. Since my  first make from this pattern was the gathered view I wanted to try the other view and I am very glad I did and will probably make it again.

Love Notions Vivace Tunic, Rayon Lawn

1. Made my standard petite adjustments but did not shorten length.

2. Due to lack of fabric  and one way design I cut apart the back to create a lined yoke and used contrast fabric for facing.

3. I like how this pattern is relaxed and yet isn’t too oversized. A fun make that I will do agin.

Love Notions Terra Tunic, Cotton jersey with spandex

1. Using my remnants and copying RTW, I was able to make my favorite  tunic pattern.

2. I cut apart front, back and sleeves, added seam allowance and carefully constructed the boatneck. The most difficult part was adapting the white upper sleeve  because it couldn’t be cut straight across at the hem. Once I figured out that I added  a coral rectangle to the upper sleeve and placed the the sleeve pattern onto of fabric to get the shape of the sleeve correct. Then I was able to determine the length of the coral section and added the bottom lavender potion. All this was done while the body  of the tee was on my mannequin.  Whew – not as easy as I thought.

3. The construction of the boatneck and side slits are very good and not at all difficult.

4. This is a TNT pattern with so many options  – I will be making more.

McCalls 7122, Viscose print and cotton jersey solid

1. Still making use of remnants I was able to gain more storage space for new fabric and have fun tee to wear. Its a win win!

2. The cotton jersey is easy to work with, the viscose not so much.

3. Another TNT pattern that I will using again with or without remnants.

Kristin’s Garments

New Look 6588, various fleeces and knits

1. Made to pattern to get an idea of fit. It is unisex so quite oversized but all the pics I saw were drop shoulder at least.

2. Glad that I chose a stripe for the neck to see how it worked. All pieces went together perfectly. Turning corners as in Tabor Vee and worked like a charm.

3. Whacked off lots of fabric but pleased with the results. Not quite what I was hoping for in the end but I have a great pattern piece to hack on to a better fitting tunic.

Helmi Trench Blouse/Named Patterns, Cotton shirting

1. Moved bust dart and widened at hip but otherwise great shoulders and all.

2. Wish I would have matched vertical stripes!

3. Sleeves were supposed to be cinched with a band-more trench coat-like. Tapered instead.

Helmi Trench Blouse and Dress by Named

Helmi Trench Dress/Named Patterns, Corduroy

1. Same fit adjustments. Very happy with results. I have added 2” to skirt length.

Nicole/Jalie Patterns #3903

1. The Nicole pattern has a bodice piece and skirt piece that is to be joined when you cut it out but I had these two fabrics as remnants and have always wanted them together. Perfect opportunity!

2. Neckband has been shortened by 1/4” (1/2” total).

3. Faux pockets added to accommodate a flaw in the fabric discovered only after unfolding the already cut out skirt piece.

April 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, April 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, April 13, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, April 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

More From January/February Starts Wed.

Garment Sewing Group Meetings (all at 10:30):

Treadle Yard Goods, Wednesday, Feb. 9

First Sewing (and Fabric Swap), Thursday, Feb. 10

Treadle Yard Goods, Saturday, Feb. 12

And some of what you may have missed in January-

Garment Sewing Group

January 2022

Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Tessa Sheath-Light weight rayon ponte

Navy Sheath Dress with Leather Trim

1. Did several shortening petite adjustments as well as straightening side seam at hip area – too curvy for me.

2. I did not want the leather yoke against my skin so I basted the leather piece on top of dress front and treated it as one piece.

3. I used very light interfacing on front facings, under stitched the back facing and stitched in the ditch at shoulders to secure facing to dress.

4. Glue stick, quilt clips and a leather sewing machine needle made sewing the leather a breeze. A fun project!

Love Notions Metra Blazer-Heavy weight rayon ponte

Navy Blazer with Leather Faux Welt Pocket

1.I enjoyed making the Shawl Collar Metra Blazer last spring so I thought I would give the Lapel version a try. I also had some leather left over from the Tessa sheath which could add just a bit more style to a fun topper.  

2. I did not use any interfacing and because my machine did not like sewing on the ponte I used Steam a Seam for sleeves and jacket hems.

Sewing Workshop Charlie Bomber-Stretch woven with rib knit

Purple Print with Rib Jacket

1. Although I admire Linda Lee’s work and products I hesitate to use her patterns because so many are oversized – not my jam. However when I saw reviews for her bomber jacket I couldn’t resist. I did my standard petite adjustments and dove into constructing the jacket.

2. I did not interface facing – pattern does not suggest using it. I did stabilize zipper seam allowances – not part of pattern instructions.

3. Step #9 is a bit confusing because the dot on the pattern is not labeled. The sleeves are set in but I did flat construction. The back collar is supposed to be slip stitched but I machine stitched. I was surprised at the lack of the finishing construction details such as stitching in the ditch or topstitching.

Kristin’s Garments:

Black Leggings

Stitch Upon a Time Ursula Leggings/Black cotton/spandex jersey

1. Made a size XL to pattern with the gusset (still perfecting the stitching of gussets:) Made the Midrise version-very good fit with the stretch of my fabric. Skinny at ankles, crotch length great. Very much a legging pattern in this knit-no bags or wrinkles.

2. Pattern also includes yoga and maternity waistband and a sewn in skirt.

Tabor Vee from Sew House Seven/Annika Top from StyleArc-Paisley wool sweater knit, gray wool blend

Tabor Vest Plus

1. I wanted to make another Tabor but wanted something longer so I hacked the bottom section of the Annika Top in a contrasting wool.

2. I can’t say enough about the vee on the Tabor. First time worked perfectly.

3. Topstitched to keep seams flat.

Irma Bodywarmer from FibreMood #16-Variety of silk, cotton fabrics/wool batting

Quilted Vest

1. The pattern only gives directions for using prequilted fabric so I went to the Tamarack Jacket from Grainline Studio for more specifics.

2. FibreMood patterns must be traced and seam allowance added. Directions were clear.

3. Fabric sandwiches were quilted as cut-if I did it again I would cut everything bigger. I lost about a quarter of an inch, which isn’t bad.

4. All seams were hong kong finished.

5. The back neck seam was tall and pushed my head forward (muslin did not show this) so I opened the seam and added a triangle before finishing the outer edges.

6. Belt is to be quilted but because the fabric was already pleated, I omitted this.

7. I cut one inch off hem because one of the fabrics was short.

Fibremood #16-rayon knit

Clemence Top

1. The fun shoulders called to me and I answered 🙂

2. Shoulder cap is square, sewn together and triangle folded to shoulder edge.

3. Neck band was on the short side.

4. I eliminated the hem band and added for a longer tee.

5. Nicely drafted.

December Garment Sewing Group

Our Friday full of snow put a damper on Saturday’s attendance but Rosemary did her best to be the audience 🙂

Simplicity 8556 in Treadle cotton

Garment Sewing Group

December 2021

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Stripe Tunic

Terra Tunic Funnel Neck by Love Notions

French terry

1. The most difficult aspect to this make is deciding which view to make.

2. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the length two inches.

3. Fun, easy, quick make-perfect for warming up on cold days.

Blouse with Ruffles and Bling

McCalls 6750, View C with adaptations (OOP)

Cotton with metallic stripes.

1.I Did standard petite adjustments and shortened one inch below waist.

2. This pattern is from from 2013 so I did make some design/construction changes.

3. To achieve the V neck I removed the collar portion of the blouse front and facing. I also reduced facing width and I did not use any interfacing in the garment.

4. I narrowed the cuff width and converted to a two piece cuff with the ws of fabric against my skin thinking that would be more comfortable but it wasn’t necessary because the metallic threads are very soft. I also used the ws of facing against my skin – not necessary.

5. I narrowed the sleeve cap 1/4” from front notch to 1/2” at shoulder to 1/4 at back notch.

6. I cut 2 1/2 “ strips for ruffle and gathered them using the serger set at 2 for differential feed and 4 for stitch length.

7. To construct the blouse I used the sewing machine, serger and french seams.

Burgundy Holiday Topper

Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio

Cotton/lycra cotton stretch velveteen

1. I have made this blazer before but this time I wanted to line it.  The pattern is unlined so I needed to work that out – a little bit of a challenge.

2. I thought about making a two-piece sleeve as suggested in pattern reviews to remove drag lines from the sleeve but that didn’t work out for me.

3. The facing is interfaced with stretch going up and down, not around – another hint from pattern reviewers. It may have made a difference in facing drape but I think the lining took care of that.

4. I lengthened the sleeves by 2 inches.

5. I made piping and applied to the lining edge using a zipper foot. All other construction was done with a walking foot.

`Kristin’s Garments:

Winter Vanessas

Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants 3676

Tropical weight wool

Kristin’s Garments, continued

1. No ankle cuffs this time around. Wool is just right for indoor wear, I washed it and it fluffed up a bit.

2. Great basic, comfy pant.

Winter Hudson Joggers

Hudson Pant by True/Bias

Activewear knit

1. Summer joggers have pilled so time for another pair (they are go to pants!)

2. Love the pockets-everything about the pattern.

Winter Basic Dress

Jalie Nicole Shift Dress 3903

Ponte

1. This mock tee dress is the bomb. Throw a sweater over it or a jacket-many looks.

2. I went up a size in the sleeve as it’s a bit snug and lowered bust darts.

3. Mock turtle neck is to pattern.

Designer Jacket

Merchant & Mills Landgate

Moleskin/flannel back satin/outerwear print

1. I had dreams!! Wanted a jacket to layer over fleece, look cool 🙂 Love the fabrics.

2. Underlined the jacket so it would hang well which made for a few interesting changes but went fairly smoothly.

3. Chopped off the hood as I knew I didn’t want it-glad I did.

4. Pretty cool construction of the front neck/yoke pieces.

5. All lot of work, in the end but other than the monster neck-which may relax over time?? I’m pretty happy with it.

Designer Joggers (Snowpants) -see photo above

Sew House Seven Free Range Pants-tapered version

Pre-quilted and self quilted fabrics

1. Just got sucked in by designer snowpants but fun to construct and figure out.

2. Made the lining first to check out fit-wanted them a bit fluffier for outdoor activities.

3. Serged the pieces together with only batting behind fabric, worked out much better than I hoped.

4. Really great pattern/style choice as there weren’t many seams to match up.

5. Used activewear knit for waistband and ankle bands.

January 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, January 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, January 12, 10;30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, January 13, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

More November Inspiration

November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!

December’s meetings are:

Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle

Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)

Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.

Hope to see you!!

Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing Workshop
And then there were two…
Light and Shadows from Cutting Line Designs
A chic thriftstore upcycle
An oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!

October Garment Sewing Group

First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!

Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…

Debbie’s Garments:

Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt

Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt

1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.

2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.

3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .

This make was a little slow but well worth it.

Teal/Green Cardigan

New Look 6735, View A

Luxury Plush Rib Knit

1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.

2.  This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.

3.  I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.

Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.

Two Stash Buster Tees:

Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical  Tee

McCalls 7247

Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit

1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.

Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top

Jalie Dolman Top 3352

French Terry

1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.

     I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.

2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.

Kristin’s Garments:

Fall Trend: Sweater Vest

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck

Sweater knit with fleece backing

1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!

2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.

3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.

4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!

Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse

Simplicity 9231

Rayon woven

1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.

2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.

3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.

4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.

Sweater Vest

Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven

Bulky cotton sweater knit

1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck

2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.

3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.

3. Constructed per pattern.

4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.

One Thing Led to Another

Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan

Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above

1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.

2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!

Funnel Neck Dress

Burda 6080

Ponte stripe

1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.

2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.

3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.

November Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Fabric Swap, Anyone?

Our last October meeting is tomorrow (Thursday) at First Sewing and we’re going to try a fabric swap.

GOT FABRIC? WANT FABRIC? Bring it to the Garment Sewing Group meeting at 10:30 am. We’re not going to charge money or anything, leave your fabric or take it back home-patterns, notions, anything sewing related.

Here are photos from Saturday (Treadle) and Wednesday (Ginny’s)-

September meetings start Wednesday/Inspiration from August

Looking forward to seeing what everyone’s been sewing! Meetings start at 10:30 on Wednesday, September 8th at The Sewing Lounge, 987 Selby Av., St. Paul, (there was a typo in my last email).

Then we’ll be at First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday at 10:30 and follow up with Sew Social from 1-4 pm.

Saturday’s meeting will be at Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am.

And a few pics from last month—

A great way to narrow a pant leg
Harrington Jacket