What will you be sewing for March-that in between, “I don’t really want to sew more wool but it’s still COLD” month!!
Your February Makes
Category: Garment Sewing Group
January Garment Sewing Group Photos
Another wonderful week of meetings despite weather challenges! It is such a pleasure to get together with like minded people and talk about sewing. And afterwards at lunch, too!
Check out the article in Minneapolis/St. Paul Magazine about all the wonderful fabric store options in the metro area! Old news for us but about time everyone else hears about it 🙂
Garment Sewing Group-January 2023
Debbie’s Garments:
1. Standard petite adjustments were made as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment and overall garment length by 1 inch.
2. The back hem was made even to the front so that the wrong side of the floral print would not be visible.
3. Instead of slip stitching the inside collar, I added a bias strip to cover neck edge.
4. I basted a contrast facing to right front then had my serger cut at basting stitch line. Then the the facing was wrapped around serger stitch to have contrast from facing show and again not have wrong side of navy print visible. The trim was stitched in the ditch to secure.
5. Contrast cuffs were added to sleeves.
Green Plaid Shirt
(Helga is OOP-new version is Harlow) in textured cotton
1. Determined size then did fitting adjustments, made a muslin and then started over. Needed to go down two sizes. – it is very oversized.
2. Generally the pattern has very good construction techniques but it does go from 3/8” to 1/4” seam allowances so you must pay attention. Also there is a lot of hand basting that could be replaced by serging an edge and press under.
3. This was a fun but challenging make. Too many pattern fit adjustments were needed and that affected the neck opening and slide slits a bit. Also, plaid fabric probably wasn’t the best choice when matching seams.
1. This a TNT pattern, especially when using up leftovers.
2. For this make I sewed the rst of neckband to wrong side of tee and then topstitched the band at neck edge.
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Features: bust and bodice back darts, skirt is more a-line, fold over placket, simple turn under sleeve placket.
2. Started with a medium size bodice and large skirt-bodice snug so redrew lines and cut a large size for bodice.
3. Sleeves are very similar to the Burda pattern. Turning under the placket was quick and easy, especially with the tencel. Sleeve cap less shaped than Burda.
4. Fold under placket was another time saver.
5. Good instructions, lots of information, mostly clear 🙂 Happy with my fabric choice.=
1. Features: bust darts only, straighter skirt, not as much shape, folded sew-on placket, traditional sleeve placket.
2. Made size 16 bodice and 18 skirt. Fit well.
3. Sleeve has a well shaped cap, took a little easing with the twill.
4. Pattern instructions were misplaced so followed Grainline instructions.
1. Burda has a “new look” which seems to mean even less instructions! But still the same great drafting.
2. Narrow-but not too-turtle neck. Long sleeve has ruching with a strip of elastic but not interested.
3. I sized up as it seemed to be close fitting, happy I did.
1. Similar to Laundry Day Tee made previously except raglan instead of set in sleeves.
2. Pattern calls for a zip with the turtle neck but not necessary with rayon knit. Turtle neck very similar in size to the Burda tee above.
3. I like the fit of the New Look better than Love Notions Laundry Day.
February Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, February 8, 10:30 at Quilters Haven in Rosemount
Thursday, February 9, 10:30 at First Sewing in Bloomington
Saturday, February 11, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge in St. Paul
Lots to See on Saturday
Great turnout in Lakes Makerie’s new classroom! Sunny, wood floors and bright yellow chairs-snow didn’t seem quite so overwhelming.
We’ll be at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul on Wednesday and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, both start at 10:30.
Garment Sewing Group December 2022
Merriest wishes and happy New Year to all of you wonderfully creative and fun people!! Here are the garments Debbie and I made in December along with commentary.
Classes are finished for the year and we will have a new calendar out at some point for 2023. Garment Sewing Group dates are at end of post.
Debbie’s Garments:
1. Shortened front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust.
2. After eliminating front facing, Hong Kong finishing seam allowances and lining the sleeves, inserting the sleeves with hand sewing it would have been easier to line the jacket!
3. I did not use any interfacing but I did add sleeve heads.
4. Due to not facing the jacket front I changed the order of construction and techniques.
5. The collar seam is stitched wst and the center back seam is stitched rst. Bias trim was added to hide collar seam.
6. Hong Kong seam finish is done with single layer and a folded bias strip was used for edge finishes.
7. The front edges were trimmed before stitching side seams and sleeves.
1. Shortened back, front, and sleeves between shoulder and bust. Sleeve length shortened 2 inches.
2. This is a TNT pattern for me. I need to remember the sleeves get too narrow below elbow before I make it again.
Jalie Renee Pant #4018 (see photo above)
Ponte rayon blend
1. I shortened the length of the pants 1 and 1/2 inch above and below the knee. Next time I would only shorten length by 2 inches.
2. I used 1/4 inch seam allowances instead 3/8 seam allowances that pattern recommends- just to give me a little less negative ease.
3. This is my first make from this pattern and I will make it again. I like the fit, style and ease of construction, especially when it comes to the waistband.
1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back, and sleeves. Also shortened the sleeve length 1 inch.
2. Did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. I used a jersey knit for facing to eliminate bulk.
4. Quick, easy, fun make.
Kristin’s Garments
1. Made to pattern-size X. Fun to put together. Great for using larger scraps.
2. Recommend lightweight drapey fabric to keep pockets from getting too bulky.
1. Both patterns have wide neck openings.
2. Jalie (size X) has a shorter sleeve and 3/4 length sleeve addition, La Bella Donna is longer and has a long hour glass shaped cuff. Recommend one size larger for cuff.
3. La Bella Donna (size Large) has one pattern piece, front same as back except for neck.
4. Added neckband from Tabor Vee Neck to “warm” up the tees.
1. Ankle bands are bigger but narrower than women’s.
2. Same great fit as women’s pattern!
1. Cut out smaller size (14) across shoulders for a closer fit. Also sized down for sleeve.
2. Added 6” to length.
3. Great New Look pattern with best construction practices. Neck band is straight, long band. Added cuffs. Bands overlap at center front which is what I was aiming for. Perfect for rayon knits and not a lot of extra fabric.
True Bias Hudson Pant for Women (photo above)
1. Omitted pockets. TNT pattern! Love the fit!!
1. Larger sleeve, different cuff, no placket, were some of the details that drew me to the pattern after seeing a few like it in magazines/websites.
2. Made size Medium, it’s an oversized fit.
3. Cut out another yoke and did burrito roll-just barely with the fleece. Used kimono fabrics as facings for fronts, collar, cuffs and pockets.
4. Omitted the back neck facing and trimmed back neck with bias.
January Garment Sewing Group Meetings
Saturday, January 7, Lakes Makerie (first Saturday of month-not second!)
Wednesday, January 11, Sewing Lounge
Thursday, January 12, First Sewing and Fabric Swap
Wednesday at Lakes Makerie
We’ll have our last installment of Garment Sewing Group for December and 2022 (!!) on Wednesday, December 14, 10:30 am. Hope you can join us and check out Lakes as it’s been a few months since we’ve been there.
On Thursday, December 15, we’ll be at First Sewing for Basic and Beyond Sergery, 10:15-12:15. It’s a one time class-any level you are at, we will help you thread, decorative stitches, cover stitch or just refresh your memory 🙂
Sew Social meets the same day and place (Thursday at First Sewing) from 1-4 pm. That will be the last of classes for 2022!
Here’s what we saw on Saturday at Treadle-
Thursday’s Garments
Great turnout at First Sewing yesterday, 21 people! And a fair amount of fabric to swap 🙂
We’ll be at Treadle tomorrow, Saturday, Dec. 10, at 10:30 and then at Lakes Makerie on Wednesday, Dec. 14, 10:30. Lots of opportunities to get your sewjo on the go!!
December Meetings-
The holiday train is moving through the station and next up is Garment Sewing Group!
Meetings-all beginning at 10:30 am: Thursday, December 8, at First Sewing and FABRIC SWAP Saturday, December 10, at Treadle Yard Goods Wednesday, December 14 at Lakes Makerie
Sew Social will meet December 8 and 15 from 1-4 pm at First Sewing.
Basic & Beyond Sergery will meet Thursday, December 15, 10:15-12:15. One session, any skill level. Use it to make up what you might have missed or forgotten or just get started with serging!! Class is at First Sewing.
Here are a few pics from the Quilted Jacket class back in November at Quilter’s Haven:
November Sewing
We’ll be at Ginny’s on Friday (11/11) at 1 pm, kind of a pop-up Garment Sewing Group :)) Ginny is also having a silk sale!
Then we’ll be a Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday at 10:30 am for our last November meeting. Hope you can make it!
And here’s some of what we saw on Wednesday-
Last Month’s Garment Sewing Group
Looking a little bit like it was a slumber party, here are our October garments and notes.
We’ll be at the Sewing Lounge tomorrow (Wednesday), then First Sewing on Thursday and Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. See you!?
Debbie’s Garments:
1. A TNT pattern for me. This pattern can be made up in a variety of knits that can be casual or dressy and takes about a yard of 54-60 inch fabric. It’s a win-win.
2. The original pattern has a longer shirt tail hem on back . I made the front and back even in length with a shirt tail hem.
3. Instead of a neckband I did a serged “bias” edge finish to eliminate bulk and give it a more dressy look.
1. I was excited to try this pattern because it seemed relaxed but a step up from an everyday bathrobe. I still feel that way but constructing it is a different story – it is very “putsy” to make and put on! The waffle knit sews as smooth as butter.
2. I made the robe knee length.
3. The front band is connected to a faced neck band that hugs the back neck.
4. The pattern sets in sleeves but I put them in using the flat method.
5. I added the ties for closing the band after the robe was finished so I could get correct placement due to my height-I am short .
Bottoms: Jalie Jeanne #4016, Art Gallery cotton knit
1. This pattern runs large – next time I will take that in consideration when choosing a size.
2. Instead of neckband I serged a contrast knit strip to neck edge and then folded contrast to wrong side and stitched in the ditch to secure trim.
3. I put a straight hem on the sleeves rather than adding trim at an angle.
Coral Dot PJ Bottoms
1. My go to pattern for a quick and easy make.
2. I made it to pattern but I did change up the waist band by doing an “Eileen Fischer type” waistband. I determine the waist measurement and sew the elastic as a circle. Then the rs of the elastic is serged to rs of pj waist. The elastic is turned to ws and stitched in the ditch at center front and back and side seams.
Kristin’s Garments
1. Shortened the waist (tie point) by 1.5” and when I shortened the neck facing accordingly, it was easier to just fold the center front in (and lessen the overlap at CF). This also took out some bulk in the overlap.
2. Cut out a size 16 and graded larger at hips and took 1/4” seams at sides and sleeve seams. Sleeves are narrow and have a high cap but went in nicely. And to be fair, that pattern photo suggests this is to be worn without something underneath.
3. Fabric was wonderful to work with-used triple zigzag to understitch neck edge. Interfaced the back neck facing but just used 3/8” fusible stabilizer for larger part of neck edge.
4. Omitted the hole in side seam and attaching ties so I can try different solutions as I plan to wear tied most of time and the stickiness of fabric will keep flaps in place (I think).
5. Made size 20 which is largest that New Look usually goes. With this stretch rayon, it was a good size. Pant seems wider than pattern photo. Turned down an extra 2” at waist mostly due to stretchiness and weight of fabric.
1. I couldn’t help myself-this was the pattern I had in my head for this fabric. I have a wedding in Phoenix and didn’t want to blend in-ha!!
2. Because of the lantern shape there was no need to increase at hips! Pretty much made to pattern-sleeves are on the slender side but it is a tunic and not a jacket so that’s OK.
3. Collar was applied with the hot dog technique from my “At Any Angle” shirts last month. The collar is very high but turns over nicely.
4. Interesting selvage edge was used at hems and facing.
5. I have a dress waiting in the wings in case I lose my nerve or the temperature remains high.
1. Last month’s Willow Tank from Grainline Studio was great to wear under my At Every Angle shirt so I thought rayon would make a great knit option under a top but I wanted a short sleeve without the bulk of seams.
2. Pattern calls for 1.25” neckband optional but more as a wrap. I wanted a bit more strength to hold the stretchy rayon in place so I treated it as a tee shirt neckband. I like the narrowness of it.
3. Took in under arm-I think mostly because of the rayon knit.
November 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, November 9, 10:30, Sewing Lounge
Thursday, November 10, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, November 12, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
September Garment Sewing Group
Whirlwind fall, anyone!? Beautiful weather and back to school has made the days fly by and we are looking at October meetings next week! Our Saturday group has turned up the volume and asked us to rotate their meetings so they see all the wonderful stores that the area has to offer too. We’re adding a new store this month-Quilter’s Haven. They carry some great Stoff knits, indie patterns, notions and more!
October 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, October 6, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, October 8, 10:30, Quilter’s Haven, 2930 146th St., Rosemount
Wednesday, October 12, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Debbie’s Garments:
1. This is my second tee from this pattern. I really like the boat neck and wanted to try the bishop sleeves.
2. Did not petite between shoulder and bust but did take in the back neckline with 1/8” darts on pattern piece before cutting fabric.
3. The pattern instructs zigzagging over thread elastic to gather sleeve before adding the cuffs. I found it much easier and a better look using my serger to gather. Placing the differential feed on 2 and the stitch length to 4 is an easy way to gather.
1. Jalie’s bodice pattern creates a lining for the front which can get heavy. The Olympia front bodice has a cut on facing to create the same look as the Jalie and is much lighter – my preference.
2. The front has a upper bodice and lower skirt. The back is one piece.
3. I did raise the center front neckline one inch.
4. Once I determined how to combine the two patterns it was an easy and quick make.
1. I did not need to petite this top but I did cut down the cowl height by 6 inches. Next time I may use one layer of fabric for the cowl.
2. I also added side slits and a ribbed band.
3. I am not sure about the placement of the long cuff. I may be shortening that cuff some day.
1. This is an old pattern and the maker has a quilting background so 1/2” seam allowances!
2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, shortened the hem and sleeve lengths.
3. Again an old pattern so I did some construction changes: increased the hood width to create a band, added side seam pockets, added 2” to center front to create a fold over facing. I bagged the lining – the pattern instructs you to place ws of lining to ws of jacket and then stitch side and under arm sleeves. The lining is caught in the hems as you fold them up to stitch – What???
4. This was a bit of a challenge but it meets a need and I was able to make use of my pattern stash.
Kristin’s Garments:
Looking for a shirt pattern that’s easy fit, a bit out of ordinary, I compared Now and Zen Shirt from Sewing Workshop, Anything But Ordinary and At Every Angle. At Every Angle won because it had the highest sleeve cap, narrow sleeves, less dropped shoulder and higher underarm.
1. The pattern is designed to be cut out in separate pieces-one left front, one right front, etc. so I cut out the XS in the shorter pieces and made to pattern.
2. As is Louise Cutting, all went together well, nice hems, funky collar, narrow sleeves.
3. Perhaps the extra small was a bit over confident-sleeves too short, neck a bit small, body too short, sleeves a bit tight. But I like the look of it (maybe it’s the samurai!)
Necessary Tank
Barry Woven Pant/StyleArc/Wool seersucker
So I made a tank to wear under the shirt-really like the samurai!
1. I love this tank-still need to widen at hip one size but armholes, neckline and bust dart, deep hem nail it as a TNT.
Barry Woven Pant-StyleArc Patterns
1. Same pattern as last month but a warmer version and added 2” to length.
2. Used silky cotton for pocket facing to keep things slimmer. Still love the pants!
Vanessa Woven Pants/Jalie Patterns/Linen twill
Now to try the next size up (small) and use the other pattern pieces!
1. Body gets a big boost-about 4”. Sleeve gets longer but not a lot wider. Quite an improvement. But now it just looks blah-maybe I need to try in a fabric with more drape?
Vanessa Woven Pants-Jalie Patterns
1. Favorite pattern but looking out for a wide leg pant to be a bit more on trend…
1. Have wanted to try this pattern for the collar/neckline. Usual Burda directions-wait, when did you tell me to sew the side seams??
2. Putsy technique for adding the yoke and facing at the same time-wouldn’t want to show the inside version.
3. Fit is great-through shoulders, etc. Could have added more at hip. Not in love yet 🙂
Material Girl Sewing 