My Jacket of Mistakes and Disappointments! What Happened?
– Chose the wrong size
– Not enough fabric thus knit sleeves with woven main fabric and unlined sleeves – needed to adjust lining construction
– Cut off too many zipper teeth and lost pull when testing and needed to rip out and insert again –
– It is a tailored jacket and I wasn’t prepared for that
– omitted zipper welt pockets
– too much in a hurry and so much more!
I like this jacket pattern. The directions are very detailed and well illustrated. The method of attaching the lining without any hand sewing is terrific. I will give this a try again but not for a long time.
1. This is TNT pattern for me but I am ready to try something new.
2. I like the contrast band even though it is black. The only thing I would do differently would be to sew the band to the center front right sides together so the black fabric would be exposed and not the ws of the print.
1. Another TNT pattern for me but again, ready to try something new.
1. So I tried something new and I didn’t do well.
2. I did shorten the length between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. I also lengthened the short version of the sweater by 2”.
3. I feel I should have used a more stable sweater knit.
4. I constructed the sweater with the serger and tried topstitching the bands using a walking foot but that did not work well – needed a more stable knit.
5. I gave up on buttonholes after trying Solvy and sticky back stabilizer to no avail.
6. The sweater is no longer a cardigan since I sewed the bands closed with buttons – it works.
1. Had to try one of the versions of the short cardigan. This one is a raglan-probably cut along the lines of their Romy pattern.
2. No hem band or back neck facing. Wrapped seams used very effectively.
3. Had fun using stash pieces.
1. Looking for a fuller-at-hem tee to layer under garments.
2. This is a size large-narrow across shoulders. Close fit through bust and back.
1. A new pattern that I just had to try. Blakandblanca Instagram photo inspired me. Wide leg and tapered leg version. I made a size 16 in wide leg version.
2. Directions are great. Everything came together. The pleat is a bit different and I’d love to see someone else’s version of it.
3. Discovered the bar tack feature on my sewing machine.
4. Omitted welt pockets and side tabs.
5. Fit worked very well. Lots of trouser features (fly shield!)-unfortunately most of them are invisible to the general public 🙂 A slower sew but worth it in the end.
November 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, December 8, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, December 10, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, December 14, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Looking a little bit like it was a slumber party, here are our October garments and notes.
We’ll be at the Sewing Lounge tomorrow (Wednesday), then First Sewing on Thursday and Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. See you!?
1. A TNT pattern for me. This pattern can be made up in a variety of knits that can be casual or dressy and takes about a yard of 54-60 inch fabric. It’s a win-win.
2. The original pattern has a longer shirt tail hem on back . I made the front and back even in length with a shirt tail hem.
3. Instead of a neckband I did a serged “bias” edge finish to eliminate bulk and give it a more dressy look.
1. I was excited to try this pattern because it seemed relaxed but a step up from an everyday bathrobe. I still feel that way but constructing it is a different story – it is very “putsy” to make and put on! The waffle knit sews as smooth as butter.
2. I made the robe knee length.
3. The front band is connected to a faced neck band that hugs the back neck.
4. The pattern sets in sleeves but I put them in using the flat method.
5. I added the ties for closing the band after the robe was finished so I could get correct placement due to my height-I am short .
1. This pattern runs large – next time I will take that in consideration when choosing a size.
2. Instead of neckband I serged a contrast knit strip to neck edge and then folded contrast to wrong side and stitched in the ditch to secure trim.
3. I put a straight hem on the sleeves rather than adding trim at an angle.
Coral Dot PJ Bottoms
1. My go to pattern for a quick and easy make.
2. I made it to pattern but I did change up the waist band by doing an “Eileen Fischer type” waistband. I determine the waist measurement and sew the elastic as a circle. Then the rs of the elastic is serged to rs of pj waist. The elastic is turned to ws and stitched in the ditch at center front and back and side seams.
1. Shortened the waist (tie point) by 1.5” and when I shortened the neck facing accordingly, it was easier to just fold the center front in (and lessen the overlap at CF). This also took out some bulk in the overlap.
2. Cut out a size 16 and graded larger at hips and took 1/4” seams at sides and sleeve seams. Sleeves are narrow and have a high cap but went in nicely. And to be fair, that pattern photo suggests this is to be worn without something underneath.
3. Fabric was wonderful to work with-used triple zigzag to understitch neck edge. Interfaced the back neck facing but just used 3/8” fusible stabilizer for larger part of neck edge.
4. Omitted the hole in side seam and attaching ties so I can try different solutions as I plan to wear tied most of time and the stickiness of fabric will keep flaps in place (I think).
5. Made size 20 which is largest that New Look usually goes. With this stretch rayon, it was a good size. Pant seems wider than pattern photo. Turned down an extra 2” at waist mostly due to stretchiness and weight of fabric.
1. I couldn’t help myself-this was the pattern I had in my head for this fabric. I have a wedding in Phoenix and didn’t want to blend in-ha!!
2. Because of the lantern shape there was no need to increase at hips! Pretty much made to pattern-sleeves are on the slender side but it is a tunic and not a jacket so that’s OK.
3. Collar was applied with the hot dog technique from my “At Any Angle” shirts last month. The collar is very high but turns over nicely.
4. Interesting selvage edge was used at hems and facing.
5. I have a dress waiting in the wings in case I lose my nerve or the temperature remains high.
1. Last month’s Willow Tank from Grainline Studio was great to wear under my At Every Angle shirt so I thought rayon would make a great knit option under a top but I wanted a short sleeve without the bulk of seams.
2. Pattern calls for 1.25” neckband optional but more as a wrap. I wanted a bit more strength to hold the stretchy rayon in place so I treated it as a tee shirt neckband. I like the narrowness of it.
3. Took in under arm-I think mostly because of the rayon knit.
November 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, November 9, 10:30, Sewing Lounge
Thursday, November 10, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, November 12, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Whirlwind fall, anyone!? Beautiful weather and back to school has made the days fly by and we are looking at October meetings next week! Our Saturday group has turned up the volume and asked us to rotate their meetings so they see all the wonderful stores that the area has to offer too. We’re adding a new store this month-Quilter’s Haven. They carry some great Stoff knits, indie patterns, notions and more!
October 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, October 6, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, October 8, 10:30, Quilter’s Haven, 2930 146th St., Rosemount
Wednesday, October 12, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
1. This is my second tee from this pattern. I really like the boat neck and wanted to try the bishop sleeves.
2. Did not petite between shoulder and bust but did take in the back neckline with 1/8” darts on pattern piece before cutting fabric.
3. The pattern instructs zigzagging over thread elastic to gather sleeve before adding the cuffs. I found it much easier and a better look using my serger to gather. Placing the differential feed on 2 and the stitch length to 4 is an easy way to gather.
1. Jalie’s bodice pattern creates a lining for the front which can get heavy. The Olympia front bodice has a cut on facing to create the same look as the Jalie and is much lighter – my preference.
2. The front has a upper bodice and lower skirt. The back is one piece.
3. I did raise the center front neckline one inch.
4. Once I determined how to combine the two patterns it was an easy and quick make.
1. I did not need to petite this top but I did cut down the cowl height by 6 inches. Next time I may use one layer of fabric for the cowl.
2. I also added side slits and a ribbed band.
3. I am not sure about the placement of the long cuff. I may be shortening that cuff some day.
1. This is an old pattern and the maker has a quilting background so 1/2” seam allowances!
2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, shortened the hem and sleeve lengths.
3. Again an old pattern so I did some construction changes: increased the hood width to create a band, added side seam pockets, added 2” to center front to create a fold over facing. I bagged the lining – the pattern instructs you to place ws of lining to ws of jacket and then stitch side and under arm sleeves. The lining is caught in the hems as you fold them up to stitch – What???
4. This was a bit of a challenge but it meets a need and I was able to make use of my pattern stash.
Looking for a shirt pattern that’s easy fit, a bit out of ordinary, I compared Now and Zen Shirt from Sewing Workshop, Anything But Ordinary and At Every Angle. At Every Angle won because it had the highest sleeve cap, narrow sleeves, less dropped shoulder and higher underarm.
1. The pattern is designed to be cut out in separate pieces-one left front, one right front, etc. so I cut out the XS in the shorter pieces and made to pattern.
2. As is Louise Cutting, all went together well, nice hems, funky collar, narrow sleeves.
3. Perhaps the extra small was a bit over confident-sleeves too short, neck a bit small, body too short, sleeves a bit tight. But I like the look of it (maybe it’s the samurai!)
So I made a tank to wear under the shirt-really like the samurai!
1. I love this tank-still need to widen at hip one size but armholes, neckline and bust dart, deep hem nail it as a TNT.
Barry Woven Pant-StyleArc Patterns
1. Same pattern as last month but a warmer version and added 2” to length.
2. Used silky cotton for pocket facing to keep things slimmer. Still love the pants!
Now to try the next size up (small) and use the other pattern pieces!
1. Body gets a big boost-about 4”. Sleeve gets longer but not a lot wider. Quite an improvement. But now it just looks blah-maybe I need to try in a fabric with more drape?
Vanessa Woven Pants-Jalie Patterns
1. Favorite pattern but looking out for a wide leg pant to be a bit more on trend…
1. Have wanted to try this pattern for the collar/neckline. Usual Burda directions-wait, when did you tell me to sew the side seams??
2. Putsy technique for adding the yoke and facing at the same time-wouldn’t want to show the inside version.
3. Fit is great-through shoulders, etc. Could have added more at hip. Not in love yet 🙂
Oh. My. Goodness! Thursday and Saturday were such great meetings-can’t wait to see what tomorrow at Sewing Lounge brings! And Maggy has worked really hard to find chairs and a comfortable arrangement for all of us.
August meetings for Garment Sewing Group are as follows:
Wednesday, August 10, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods
Thursday, August 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Blmgtn., and FABRIC SWAP
Saturday, August 13, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Hope to see you and your end of summer sewing!
July 2022Garment Sewing Group Photos and Notes
I was a little hesitant making this dress due to style vibe and fitting concerns. I read lots of reviews, listened to Brenda and made a muslin. Then I thought go for it and I am glad I did. It is a fun make.
1. I did my petite adjustments between shoulder and bust but not any length!
2. The construction is easy and very clear. I did question the direction of stay stitching the pattern directs. It is just the opposite of the way I was taught.
3. Not fond of the construction technique used for the opening for the tie. Next time I would put in a buttonhole.
I have no idea what pattern the skirt is cut from. I have a traced pattern with no info on it but it is a TNT. The fabric is cotton sateen.
1. The pattern is simple and easy to make however the fabric gave me a little trouble. Thought I was buying a panel but it was sold by yardage. Therefore I really needed to be careful cutting so I could get the print where I wanted it.
2. Again, fabric was scarce so instead of losing fabric to a hem I serged a bias strip around the hem.
3. I put in a side invisible zipper and the waist is shaped with facing, no waistband.
Coral Boatneck Tee/Somerset Tee by Maven patterns (photo above)
1. I did not need any petite adjustments but I did shorten length on front, back and sleeve one inch.
2. I love a boatneck and this is a good one. The directions are clear and concise and produce RTW results.
3. I would decrease the width of the back neckline with small darts on paper pattern before cutting the next make.
4. This was a fun make. I like the variety of sleeves the pattern offers.
1. This is a TNT pattern that I make often. Each time I add or delete design features.
2. I eliminated the back pockets and I tapered the legs about 2 inches from knee to leg hems.
1. Front band is cut on as part of front pattern piece and darts help make the turn. Interesting and well thought out construction.
2. Made a size medium which fit perfectly-graded to next size at hips. Sleeves a bit wide for my taste.
3. Did all interfacing as pattern directed. Fun summer jacket to wear tied.
1. Basic raglan robe pattern which can be hard to find. In my stash for some time and still available on the internet. I made a size medium-it’s also a bit A-lined.
2. Misread placement dots for belt but it worked out in the end 🙂
3. Applied neck/front band to wrong side of robe and wrapped seam allowance with bias contrast fabric and love the detail.
4. Linen makes a wonderful robe for hot weather!
Vogue 8906 OOP, View C
1. This is a view from a TNT pattern that I have always wanted to try. Cut on sleeves, no darts and a v-neck with some shaping pleats to boot!
2. Used a 3/8” seam allowance at neck for a closer neck. Did a forward shoulder just because it’s an old Vogue. Had to add a cuff because sleeve was too short. Topstitched facings down.
3. Buttonholes were a struggle but Solvy did the trick!
August Garment Sewing Group Meetings
Wednesday, August 10, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods
Thursday, August 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, August 13, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul