Serger Class starts next week AND June GSG

Our next Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts next Thursday, June 30 at 10 am at First Sewing, 494 and Penn! The class continues July 7 and 21. Go to “Classes at First Sewing” in the menu bar to register.

June Garment Sewing Group:

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy Jacket, Burda 6760, View C, Silk Matka and Rayon Crepe Lining

1. This is an unlined jacket so my first step was to draft lining pattern pieces. The sleeves are underlined. Also a dart in the sleeve creates a 2 piece look which I like. It eliminates a lot of bulk.

2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment but did not shorten length because it is a cropped style.

3. Due to the texture of the main fabric I only interfaced the under collar.

4. Also due to the texture of the fabric I did not top stitch.

5. This pattern is from 2015. It was a fun make and I also decreased my pattern collection.

Coral with Navy Dot Classic Blouse, NewLook 6698, View B, Cotton Sateen

1. As always I did my petite adjustments but did not shorten the hem length – this is a crop length shirt.

2. The pattern envelope gives yardage for a skirt. There is no skirt in this pattern – maybe a typing error. That should have been my first clue that the pattern had some flaws.

3. The neckband is too short for neck and the directions for collar insertion are poor.

4. The only feature different from my TNT blouse pattern is the “cuff”.

Navy Gingham Pants, Burda 7062, Gingham with Bemberg lining, see photo above

1. This pattern is from 2013 and has been updated in the catalog.

2. I eliminated the side slits and added a lining.

3. This is a TNT for me and it will stay in pattern collection.

Coral “Scraps” Blouse

Coral “Scraps” Blouse, Liesl+ Co Geneva V-Neck Blouse, Cotton lawn, stripe and sateen

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and removed 2 inches from the length. I also softened the shirt tail hem and removed length from there as well. The designer is tall!

2. I raised the v-neck 1 inch.

3. I changed construction steps because I wanted to have the neck band on the rs of the blouse. I used the shorten/lengthen line to determine the the length of back top and bottom.

4. I chose this pattern because of the lantern sleeve. I am not fan of v-neck blouses but I thought I would give it a try anyway.

5. It was a fun make even though the construction techniques are kind of putsy and 1/2 seam allowances are used – WHY?!

Kristin’s Garments:

Summer Jacket/The Fold London, Vogue 1648, Stretch woven blend

1. Pattern includes lining but didn’t want to lose the stretch of fabric so just used facings.

2. Very large pleat in back was topstitched through all layers-directions had it hanging loose-I wanted a bit more of a “yoke line” to copy garment.

3. Center front overlap was eliminated so no closure. Corners at collar were rounded.

4. This pattern was previously made in fleece. Fits surprisingly well (no forward shoulder needed, bust dart in proper place, sleeve is great.

Brick Summer Pants, Vanessa Fluid Pants/Jalie Patterns, Silk blend fabric? See photo below

1. Added 3” to length-omitted cuff.

2. Darts are extended 2” for a lower seat 🙂

3. Waist band is made into one continuous strip eliminating seams and tie.

4. Great pants pattern-TNT!

Woven Summer Blouse, Harmony Blouse/Love Notions, Rayon challis and Jalie Vanessa Pants

1. Made to pattern as the hip area is already wider.

2. Neck binding is supposed to be turned all the way under, I like wrapping the serged edge.

3. Center back seam has waist shaping but the opening isn’t necessary to get blouse on. I just sewed the button on permanently.

4. Several sleeve variations. Great summer woven tee with a dart.

5. Great fit for my body!

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck
Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Tomato rayon knit vee neck

1. Shortened length 2”.

2. Both necklines are great depthwise. Vee is quite pointed and the rayon fabric didn’t help. Pattern also includes a scoop neck and all sleeve length variations.

3. Definitely a TNT!

July 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, July 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, July 13, 10:30 Lakes Makerie, Mpls

Thursday, July 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap 🙂

May Garments

Squeaking in on the last day of May…for June meeting dates and locations, please scroll to end of post-

Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy/Teal Tie Knit Dress, New Look 6650, Cotton jersey

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the hem length by 2 inches – whoops – it feels a little too short.

2. I did a serged “bias” neck finish instead of turning under neck edge twice and topstitching as pattern directs. I also eliminated the side slit.

3. Fun, easy make that can be casual or dressy, depending on fabric choice.

Navy Stripe Dolman Tee, Jalie 3352, Rayon jersey

1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as shortening hem length.

2. I added a neckband rather than folding neck edge to ws and top stitching. Also added cuffs to again avoid turning hem to inside and topstitching.

3. This is a TNT pattern for me. I like how it fits, there are several looks and it is a great scrap buster.

Navy Print Quilted Cardigan, New Look 6351 hack, Liberty of London with cotton flannel batting, rayon crepe lining

1. I tried to copy a RTW garment and did fairly well except I wish I would have used very light batting instead of flannel. It is not as soft as RTW garment.

2. Besides my standard petite adjustments I straightened the CF so the fronts meet, not overlap.

3. For construction: stitch side fronts to fronts for main fabric, batting and lining. Follow same procedure for CB seam. Quilt front, back and sleeves using walking foot and 1/2 vertical rows at 3.0 stitch length.  Jacket is then serged together.

4. I added a contrast band for CF and hemmed sleeves and bottom with bias strip bands.

5. The RTW version added buttons and buttonholes – I did not.

6. It was a good project to work on during our cold spring but I am done with quilting for a long time now!

Coral Side Button Tee, Simplicity 9229 hack to copy Love Notions Lincoln Top, Cotton modal

1. To redesign the pattern I eliminated the side seam and made the back and wedge one piece allowing for sa and placket folds. Later I added a placket to button edge because my math was incorrect! A two inch length of fabric was pressed wst and serged to rst of shirt back side seam.

2. On the side fronts I added 1 inch plus sa for button hole placket.  The placket edges were clean finished, pressed to ws and top stitched.

3. The back hem is longer by one inch.

4. I did make buttonholes but really not necessary.

5. This became more of a chore than I planned on and I realize now I should have just bought the Love Notions pattern! 

Kristin’s Garments

Woven Tee, Coram Top/Allie Olson, Rayon woven
Debbie’s Coram in cotton shirting

1. Quick to sew with raglan sleeves. Bust dart is a plus.

2. As with most popular patterns of this type, the neck is on the larger end of spectrum.

3. I took it in 3/8” along shoulder dart and through sleeve as it seemed a bit low under arms also.

4. Neck band also seemed long but bias binding can stretch when pressed so follow pattern directions and adjust as needed.

Summer Dress, Sandra Betzina Vogue 1530 OOP View A, Scuba knit/wool knit

1. Eliminated center back seam. Added back darts.

2. Eliminated skirt lining because scuba hung nicely without. Turned under underarms and stitched to make up for lack of lining.

3. Like the fit and the way it went together.

4. Omitted the trim down the side seams as wool knit was thick.

5. Disappointed with fusible interfacing results around decorative neck hole. Glued too well.

6. Hole in front yoke fussy but a fun detail.

Willow Wrap Dress/Love Notions, Rayon knit

1. Made the first version in a medium and that was too small so tried XL and that was much better except bust was big so took shaping out of front bust area.

2. Tried elastic trim for neckline (floral version) and band per pattern (solid version).

3. Lots of options-higher neckline and lower (solid knit was in between), pleated front and plain front, 3 sleeve lengths and a children’s version (separate purchase).

June 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday, June 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

Saturday, June 11, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Classes and Saturday’s Pics

We have two classes starting this week-

Serge (or Sew) This: Woven Tee: Wed., May 18, 25, June 2, 10:30-12:30, Treadle

Serge (or Sew) This: Core Pattern Tee: Thurs., May 19, 26, June 2, 10-12, First Sewing

Register online at Treadle for Treadle class and Material Girls for First Sewing class. Email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com for questions.

Remy Top/Brussels Skirt
Simple tee dress in a great print
Lightweight wool jacket

A Great Day at Ginny’s

We waited till May to avoid late snowstorms and instead we got heavy rain and road construction! But everyone got there safely and showed some great warmer weather garments. We are so grateful that you all love to meet together!!

Thursday will be Garment Sewing Group and Fabric Swap at 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington and then Saturday at Treadle Yard Goods-come and join the fun and creativity.

Trio Top/Sewing Workhop and Barry Pant/StyleArc
London Shirt/Sewing Workshop
Noto Tee, Hudson Pant, Sterling Jacket-all Sewing Workshop
OOP Butterick Jean Jacket
Jacket/Vogue 1975 Barcelona Dress/Maven Patterns
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop
Fabric selection by Ginny
Machine embroidery

One More April Meeting

It’s tomorrow (Thursday, April 14) at First Sewing, Bloomington and there’s going to be ALOT of fabric to swap!!!! Please come and take some. Somebody was moving… There will be some diamonds and some duds but it’s all free and going to Goodwill by 4 pm.

There will also be great sewing inspiration! Here’s what we saw at the Sewing Lounge Wednesday. There were 27 people and we stood on a chair so all could see-but we had a great time 🙂 Thanks for keeping on keeping on.

Spring cotton knit pj’s-Madison Top and Joggers-Sewing Workshop
Flynn Jacket-In the Folds and Peplum Top-Peppermint Magazine
Perfectly matched pockets-Simplicity 9479
OOP Marcy Tilton-still a winner!
Blanca Flight Suit X 2-Closet Core Patterns
Nova Sweatshirt-Sinclair Patterns
Tabor Vee-Sew House Seven and another Madison Jogger-Sewing Workshop
Sterling Jacket-Sewing Workshop
Simplicity 9229
Tallinn Sweater-Hey June
Mary Poppins Bag

Jacket Class Wednesday and More

Metra Blazer/Love Notions

Not quite spring and hoping to NOT be winter we are sewing/serging jackets or cardigans starting Wednesday, March 2, 9 and 16 from 1-3 at Treadle Yard Goods. Please call or go online to sign up-3 spots left! We are recommending the Metra Blazer from Love Notions, New Look 6735 cardigan, Blackwood Cardigan from Helen’s Closet as just a few of our favorites. You can get your pattern printed easily and quickly at the Sewing Lounge. Email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com if you have questions.

Metra Blazer
New Look 6735

And then we have some more to show from February Garment Sewing Group-are you sewing something spring-ish for March??

Vogue 9133
Burda 7700
Paddington Top/Peppermint Mag-(buttons down back)
Butterick 6323
Romy/Jalie Patterns
Belvedere Waistcoat/Thread Theory
Simplicity 7277
McCalls 6796

Can’t wait to see what March meetings have in store…Wednesday, 3/9 at Lakes Makerie, Thursday, 3/10 at First Sewing, Saturday, 3/12 at Treadle!

February Garment Sewing Group

Here are the garments Debbie and I made for February. Inspiration from all of you will follow soon…

 Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Olympia Dress

Teal/Navy Fit and Flare Dress

Cotton Jersey

1. I Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust and shortened hem length by 1.5 inches.

2. I eliminated the pockets and tapered the sleeves one inch at hem.

3. The construction of the neckline is unique but also very easy and quick. Jalie has a top pattern with a similar neck line construction that creates a lined bodice. I think the two techniques could be interchanged especially if you have light weight fabric.

4. Very pleased with this dress I would like to make another but there are so many other patterns to try!

Jalie Nicole Dress

Teal/Gray Pocket Tunic/Dress

Viscose, rayon, spandex ponte

1. I wanted some “everyday “ easy, casual, polished and warm garments and a dress from   Artful Home became my inspiration.

2. I did my petite and shortening adjustments as usual.

3. Pocket – I determined the size of the two rectangles used for pockets and added seam allowances. Then I clean finished the sides of both pockets. I stitched the small pocket to the large pocket leaving top of pocket open. I used Wonder Under fusible to then attach the large pocket to dress. I also stitched around all sides of large pocket. It took a lot longer to think about what process to use than to actually sew the pockets to the dress.

4.  The inspiration dress does not have a mock neck or long sleeves but this is Minnesota and the Jalie dress pattern is very accommodating for our climate!

5.  Once pocket was attached I continued construction as pattern directs.

McCalls 8022

Brick Tunic/Dress with Contrast Trim

Viscose rayon, spandex Ponte

1. I always start with my fit adjustments-petiting and shortening length.

2. I did not care for the collar on the pattern so again I made a mock T neck. To give the dress a bit of contrast I cut the neck pattern piece in half and added seam allowance. The outside of the mock is Ponte and the inside is cotton jersey. The contrast is created by stitching the upper edge and then wrapping the jersey over the Ponte seam allowance.

3. The contrast on sleeve hem is created by stitching RS of contrast jersey to WS of sleeve.

4. The instructions suggest using fusible tape for the hem. I do not find that tip often in the big four pattern companies.

Kristin’s Garments:

Giselle from FibreMood

Last Quilted Jacket

Wool, linen, wool knit, wool batting

1. Although puffer jacket was my inspiration, my choice of fabrics certainly didn’t reflect it!

2. Cut to pattern and then shortened by two inches when finished.

3. Resorted to my old quilt habits and quilted the back piece from center out to minimize the fabric/layer movement.

4. Changed the collar to a knit band and am very happy I did-warm, not stiff.

5. The zipper placket and zipper guard went together very well although a bit thick at seam crossings. Made it look more ready to wear.

6. A fun journey but done quilting for the year 🙂

Tabor Vee View 4 Sew House Seven/Hudson Pant from True Bias

Pajama Set

1. Wanted to give the Tabor a try with sleeves. Very happy with them-snug fitting sleeves but loose body.

2. Vee neck fits closely around neck so not too cold for winter!

3. Hudson Pant is my go-to knit jogger pattern. Added another inch to length and omitted pockets.

New Classes in March:

Jackets, Cardigans, Coatigans-Wednesdays, March 2, 9, 16, 1-3 pm at Treadle Yard Goods

March 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, March 9, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, March 10, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, March 12, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

More From January/February Starts Wed.

Garment Sewing Group Meetings (all at 10:30):

Treadle Yard Goods, Wednesday, Feb. 9

First Sewing (and Fabric Swap), Thursday, Feb. 10

Treadle Yard Goods, Saturday, Feb. 12

And some of what you may have missed in January-

Garment Sewing Group

January 2022

Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Tessa Sheath-Light weight rayon ponte

Navy Sheath Dress with Leather Trim

1. Did several shortening petite adjustments as well as straightening side seam at hip area – too curvy for me.

2. I did not want the leather yoke against my skin so I basted the leather piece on top of dress front and treated it as one piece.

3. I used very light interfacing on front facings, under stitched the back facing and stitched in the ditch at shoulders to secure facing to dress.

4. Glue stick, quilt clips and a leather sewing machine needle made sewing the leather a breeze. A fun project!

Love Notions Metra Blazer-Heavy weight rayon ponte

Navy Blazer with Leather Faux Welt Pocket

1.I enjoyed making the Shawl Collar Metra Blazer last spring so I thought I would give the Lapel version a try. I also had some leather left over from the Tessa sheath which could add just a bit more style to a fun topper.  

2. I did not use any interfacing and because my machine did not like sewing on the ponte I used Steam a Seam for sleeves and jacket hems.

Sewing Workshop Charlie Bomber-Stretch woven with rib knit

Purple Print with Rib Jacket

1. Although I admire Linda Lee’s work and products I hesitate to use her patterns because so many are oversized – not my jam. However when I saw reviews for her bomber jacket I couldn’t resist. I did my standard petite adjustments and dove into constructing the jacket.

2. I did not interface facing – pattern does not suggest using it. I did stabilize zipper seam allowances – not part of pattern instructions.

3. Step #9 is a bit confusing because the dot on the pattern is not labeled. The sleeves are set in but I did flat construction. The back collar is supposed to be slip stitched but I machine stitched. I was surprised at the lack of the finishing construction details such as stitching in the ditch or topstitching.

Kristin’s Garments:

Black Leggings

Stitch Upon a Time Ursula Leggings/Black cotton/spandex jersey

1. Made a size XL to pattern with the gusset (still perfecting the stitching of gussets:) Made the Midrise version-very good fit with the stretch of my fabric. Skinny at ankles, crotch length great. Very much a legging pattern in this knit-no bags or wrinkles.

2. Pattern also includes yoga and maternity waistband and a sewn in skirt.

Tabor Vee from Sew House Seven/Annika Top from StyleArc-Paisley wool sweater knit, gray wool blend

Tabor Vest Plus

1. I wanted to make another Tabor but wanted something longer so I hacked the bottom section of the Annika Top in a contrasting wool.

2. I can’t say enough about the vee on the Tabor. First time worked perfectly.

3. Topstitched to keep seams flat.

Irma Bodywarmer from FibreMood #16-Variety of silk, cotton fabrics/wool batting

Quilted Vest

1. The pattern only gives directions for using prequilted fabric so I went to the Tamarack Jacket from Grainline Studio for more specifics.

2. FibreMood patterns must be traced and seam allowance added. Directions were clear.

3. Fabric sandwiches were quilted as cut-if I did it again I would cut everything bigger. I lost about a quarter of an inch, which isn’t bad.

4. All seams were hong kong finished.

5. The back neck seam was tall and pushed my head forward (muslin did not show this) so I opened the seam and added a triangle before finishing the outer edges.

6. Belt is to be quilted but because the fabric was already pleated, I omitted this.

7. I cut one inch off hem because one of the fabrics was short.

Fibremood #16-rayon knit

Clemence Top

1. The fun shoulders called to me and I answered 🙂

2. Shoulder cap is square, sewn together and triangle folded to shoulder edge.

3. Neck band was on the short side.

4. I eliminated the hem band and added for a longer tee.

5. Nicely drafted.

December Garment Sewing Group

Our Friday full of snow put a damper on Saturday’s attendance but Rosemary did her best to be the audience 🙂

Simplicity 8556 in Treadle cotton

Garment Sewing Group

December 2021

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Stripe Tunic

Terra Tunic Funnel Neck by Love Notions

French terry

1. The most difficult aspect to this make is deciding which view to make.

2. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the length two inches.

3. Fun, easy, quick make-perfect for warming up on cold days.

Blouse with Ruffles and Bling

McCalls 6750, View C with adaptations (OOP)

Cotton with metallic stripes.

1.I Did standard petite adjustments and shortened one inch below waist.

2. This pattern is from from 2013 so I did make some design/construction changes.

3. To achieve the V neck I removed the collar portion of the blouse front and facing. I also reduced facing width and I did not use any interfacing in the garment.

4. I narrowed the cuff width and converted to a two piece cuff with the ws of fabric against my skin thinking that would be more comfortable but it wasn’t necessary because the metallic threads are very soft. I also used the ws of facing against my skin – not necessary.

5. I narrowed the sleeve cap 1/4” from front notch to 1/2” at shoulder to 1/4 at back notch.

6. I cut 2 1/2 “ strips for ruffle and gathered them using the serger set at 2 for differential feed and 4 for stitch length.

7. To construct the blouse I used the sewing machine, serger and french seams.

Burgundy Holiday Topper

Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio

Cotton/lycra cotton stretch velveteen

1. I have made this blazer before but this time I wanted to line it.  The pattern is unlined so I needed to work that out – a little bit of a challenge.

2. I thought about making a two-piece sleeve as suggested in pattern reviews to remove drag lines from the sleeve but that didn’t work out for me.

3. The facing is interfaced with stretch going up and down, not around – another hint from pattern reviewers. It may have made a difference in facing drape but I think the lining took care of that.

4. I lengthened the sleeves by 2 inches.

5. I made piping and applied to the lining edge using a zipper foot. All other construction was done with a walking foot.

`Kristin’s Garments:

Winter Vanessas

Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants 3676

Tropical weight wool

Kristin’s Garments, continued

1. No ankle cuffs this time around. Wool is just right for indoor wear, I washed it and it fluffed up a bit.

2. Great basic, comfy pant.

Winter Hudson Joggers

Hudson Pant by True/Bias

Activewear knit

1. Summer joggers have pilled so time for another pair (they are go to pants!)

2. Love the pockets-everything about the pattern.

Winter Basic Dress

Jalie Nicole Shift Dress 3903

Ponte

1. This mock tee dress is the bomb. Throw a sweater over it or a jacket-many looks.

2. I went up a size in the sleeve as it’s a bit snug and lowered bust darts.

3. Mock turtle neck is to pattern.

Designer Jacket

Merchant & Mills Landgate

Moleskin/flannel back satin/outerwear print

1. I had dreams!! Wanted a jacket to layer over fleece, look cool 🙂 Love the fabrics.

2. Underlined the jacket so it would hang well which made for a few interesting changes but went fairly smoothly.

3. Chopped off the hood as I knew I didn’t want it-glad I did.

4. Pretty cool construction of the front neck/yoke pieces.

5. All lot of work, in the end but other than the monster neck-which may relax over time?? I’m pretty happy with it.

Designer Joggers (Snowpants) -see photo above

Sew House Seven Free Range Pants-tapered version

Pre-quilted and self quilted fabrics

1. Just got sucked in by designer snowpants but fun to construct and figure out.

2. Made the lining first to check out fit-wanted them a bit fluffier for outdoor activities.

3. Serged the pieces together with only batting behind fabric, worked out much better than I hoped.

4. Really great pattern/style choice as there weren’t many seams to match up.

5. Used activewear knit for waistband and ankle bands.

January 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, January 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, January 12, 10;30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, January 13, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

More November Inspiration

November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!

December’s meetings are:

Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle

Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)

Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.

Hope to see you!!

Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing Workshop
And then there were two…
Light and Shadows from Cutting Line Designs
A chic thriftstore upcycle
An oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!