Last of January Photos

I hope you are in the sunshine somewhere-it’s beautiful!! Speaking of beautiful-here are the remaining sew and tell pics. Another great month of sewing!

Lisette 6296
Simplicity 9291 Gertie pattern
Shucks, I didn’t write down the wrap sweater pattern! Can anyone help me out?
Sapporo Coat/now Nova Coat from Papercut Patterns
Vogue 1784
OOP coat pattern
Historically correct doll bodice
Daughter/mother duo in The Blouse by Avid Seamstress (daughter) and Estelle Ponte Jacket by Stylearc (mother)
Madden Skirt by Tessuti Patterns
Tremont Jacket/Vest by The Sewing Workshop X 2
Nancy’s Blouse by Silhouette Patterns in rayon batik
McCalls 7874 from two old sweatshirts!
Vogue 8854
Wool Coat-Logan Shacket by Stylearc
Copied ready-to-wear/still making modifications

Happy sewing for February!!

January Garment Sewing Group Photos

Another wonderful week of meetings despite weather challenges! It is such a pleasure to get together with like minded people and talk about sewing. And afterwards at lunch, too!

Check out the article in Minneapolis/St. Paul Magazine about all the wonderful fabric store options in the metro area! Old news for us but about time everyone else hears about it 🙂

Garment Sewing Group-January 2023

Debbie’s Garments:

Simplicity 9106, cotton flannel

1. Standard petite adjustments were made as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment and overall garment length by 1 inch.

2. The back hem was made even to the front so that the wrong side of the floral print would not be visible.

3. Instead of slip stitching the inside collar, I added a bias strip to cover neck edge.

4. I basted a contrast facing to right front then had my serger cut at basting stitch line. Then the the facing was wrapped around serger stitch to have contrast from facing show and again not have wrong side of navy print visible. The trim was stitched in the ditch to secure.

5. Contrast cuffs were added to sleeves.

Green Plaid Shirt

Helga Shirt by Tessuti Fabrics, View B
(Helga is OOP-new version is Harlow) in textured cotton

1. Determined size then did fitting adjustments, made a muslin and then started over. Needed to go down two sizes. – it is very oversized.

2. Generally the pattern has very good construction techniques but it does go from 3/8” to 1/4” seam allowances so you must pay attention. Also there is a lot of hand basting that could be replaced by serging an edge and press under.

3. This was a fun but challenging make. Too many pattern fit adjustments were needed and that affected the neck opening and slide slits a bit. Also, plaid fabric probably wasn’t the best choice when matching seams.

Tabitha Tee by Love Notions in cotton knits

1. This a TNT pattern, especially when using up leftovers.

2. For this make I sewed the rst of neckband to wrong side of tee and then topstitched the band at neck edge.

Kristin’s Garments:

Assembly Line Shirt Dress in charcoal tencel
No safety pins!!

1. Features: bust and bodice back darts, skirt is more a-line, fold over placket, simple turn under sleeve placket.

2. Started with a medium size bodice and large skirt-bodice snug so redrew lines and cut a large size for bodice.

3. Sleeves are very similar to the Burda pattern. Turning under the placket was quick and easy, especially with the tencel. Sleeve cap less shaped than Burda.

4. Fold under placket was another time saver.

5. Good instructions, lots of information, mostly clear 🙂 Happy with my fabric choice.=

Burda Shirt Dress #5971 in stretch twill
No safety pins!!

1. Features: bust darts only, straighter skirt, not as much shape, folded sew-on placket, traditional sleeve placket.

2. Made size 16 bodice and 18 skirt. Fit well.

3. Sleeve has a well shaped cap, took a little easing with the twill.

4. Pattern instructions were misplaced so followed Grainline instructions.

Burda 6067, Neck B in cotton knit

1. Burda has a “new look” which seems to mean even less instructions! But still the same great drafting.

2. Narrow-but not too-turtle neck. Long sleeve has ruching with a strip of elastic but not interested.

3. I sized up as it seemed to be close fitting, happy I did.

New Look 6469 in rayon knit

1. Similar to Laundry Day Tee made previously except raglan instead of set in sleeves.

2. Pattern calls for a zip with the turtle neck but not necessary with rayon knit. Turtle neck very similar in size to the Burda tee above.

3. I like the fit of the New Look better than Love Notions Laundry Day.

February Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, February 8, 10:30 at Quilters Haven in Rosemount

Thursday, February 9, 10:30 at First Sewing in Bloomington

Saturday, February 11, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge in St. Paul

Lots to See on Saturday

Great turnout in Lakes Makerie’s new classroom! Sunny, wood floors and bright yellow chairs-snow didn’t seem quite so overwhelming.

We’ll be at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul on Wednesday and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, both start at 10:30.

Sandra Betzina wool coat
Warm lining
Elastic Tie Sweater
Jalie 2682
Remy from Grainline Studio with free sleeve extension
Vogue 8924
Vintage shirt in plaid wool

Garment Sewing Group December 2022

Merriest wishes and happy New Year to all of you wonderfully creative and fun people!! Here are the garments Debbie and I made in December along with commentary.

Classes are finished for the year and we will have a new calendar out at some point for 2023. Garment Sewing Group dates are at end of post.

Debbie’s Garments:

Kwik Sew 4191, View B without facing Double faced wool blend with cotton lawn edging

1. Shortened front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust.

2. After eliminating front facing, Hong Kong finishing seam allowances and lining the sleeves, inserting the sleeves with hand sewing it would have been easier to line the jacket!

3. I did not use any interfacing but I did add sleeve heads.

4. Due to not facing the jacket front I changed the order of construction and techniques.

5. The collar seam is stitched wst and the center back seam is stitched rst. Bias trim was added to hide collar seam.

6. Hong Kong seam finish is done with single layer and a folded bias strip was used for edge finishes.

7. The front edges were trimmed before stitching side seams and sleeves.

Love Notions Tabitha Top with Yoke and Long Sleeves. Rayon blend jersey knit and cotton lawn

1. Shortened back, front, and sleeves between shoulder and bust. Sleeve length shortened 2 inches.

2. This is a TNT pattern for me. I need to remember the sleeves get too narrow below elbow before I make it again.

Jalie Renee Pant #4018 (see photo above)

Ponte rayon blend

1. I shortened the length of the pants 1 and 1/2 inch above and below the knee. Next time I would only shorten length by 2 inches.

2. I used 1/4 inch seam allowances instead 3/8 seam allowances that pattern recommends- just to give me a little less negative ease.

3. This is my first make from this pattern and I will make it again. I like the fit, style and ease of construction, especially when it comes to the waistband.

Simplicity 0659/8377, Wool blend knit

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back, and sleeves. Also shortened the sleeve length 1 inch.

2. Did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. I used a jersey knit for facing to eliminate bulk.

4. Quick, easy, fun make.

Kristin’s Garments

Jalie 3248 Drop Pocket Cardigan, various knits

1. Made to pattern-size X. Fun to put together. Great for using larger scraps.

2. Recommend lightweight drapey fabric to keep pockets from getting too bulky.

Love Notions La Bella Donna, cotton knit
Jalie Dolman 3352, cotton knit

1. Both patterns have wide neck openings.

2. Jalie (size X) has a shorter sleeve and 3/4 length sleeve addition, La Bella Donna is longer and has a long hour glass shaped cuff. Recommend one size larger for cuff.

3. La Bella Donna (size Large) has one pattern piece, front same as back except for neck.

4. Added neckband from Tabor Vee Neck to “warm” up the tees.

True Bias Hudson Pant for Men, rayon knit

1. Ankle bands are bigger but narrower than women’s.

2. Same great fit as women’s pattern!

New Look 6735, rayon knit True Bias Hudson Pant for Women

1. Cut out smaller size (14) across shoulders for a closer fit. Also sized down for sleeve.

2. Added 6” to length.

3. Great New Look pattern with best construction practices. Neck band is straight, long band. Added cuffs. Bands overlap at center front which is what I was aiming for. Perfect for rayon knits and not a lot of extra fabric.

True Bias Hudson Pant for Women (photo above)

1. Omitted pockets. TNT pattern! Love the fit!!

Simplicity 9239, fleece with kimono remnants

1. Larger sleeve, different cuff, no placket, were some of the details that drew me to the pattern after seeing a few like it in magazines/websites.

2. Made size Medium, it’s an oversized fit.

3. Cut out another yoke and did burrito roll-just barely with the fleece. Used kimono fabrics as facings for fronts, collar, cuffs and pockets.

4. Omitted the back neck facing and trimmed back neck with bias.

January Garment Sewing Group Meetings

Saturday, January 7, Lakes Makerie (first Saturday of month-not second!)

Wednesday, January 11, Sewing Lounge

Thursday, January 12, First Sewing and Fabric Swap

Wednesday at Lakes Makerie

We’ll have our last installment of Garment Sewing Group for December and 2022 (!!) on Wednesday, December 14, 10:30 am. Hope you can join us and check out Lakes as it’s been a few months since we’ve been there.

On Thursday, December 15, we’ll be at First Sewing for Basic and Beyond Sergery, 10:15-12:15. It’s a one time class-any level you are at, we will help you thread, decorative stitches, cover stitch or just refresh your memory 🙂

Sew Social meets the same day and place (Thursday at First Sewing) from 1-4 pm. That will be the last of classes for 2022!

Here’s what we saw on Saturday at Treadle-

Great Copy Cascade Jacket
Resolution Bottoms from Love Notions
Toaster Sweater and then some-great trim acquired on travels abroad
Satisfying job of relining a handmade coat
A little Barbie sewing-did you know her body changed but the patterns didn’t!

Thursday’s Garments

Great turnout at First Sewing yesterday, 21 people! And a fair amount of fabric to swap 🙂

We’ll be at Treadle tomorrow, Saturday, Dec. 10, at 10:30 and then at Lakes Makerie on Wednesday, Dec. 14, 10:30. Lots of opportunities to get your sewjo on the go!!

Nothing says holidays like a great rayon velvet!
Liberty of London in Faith from StyleArc
FibreMood skirt in jacquard floral
Holiday sewing for teens
Holiday skirt with plenty of swirl

December Meetings-

The holiday train is moving through the station and next up is Garment Sewing Group!

Meetings-all beginning at 10:30 am: Thursday, December 8, at First Sewing and FABRIC SWAP Saturday, December 10, at Treadle Yard Goods Wednesday, December 14 at Lakes Makerie

Sew Social will meet December 8 and 15 from 1-4 pm at First Sewing.

Basic & Beyond Sergery will meet Thursday, December 15, 10:15-12:15. One session, any skill level. Use it to make up what you might have missed or forgotten or just get started with serging!! Class is at First Sewing.

Here are a few pics from the Quilted Jacket class back in November at Quilter’s Haven:

Saturday’s Meeting

A beautiful summer Saturday and great sewing inspiration!

We’ll be at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis, on Wednesday, July 13 and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, July 14 (and FABRIC SWAP). Both start at 10:30 am!

Japanese panel in Vogue 1264
Vogue 1264-who’s still got it in their stash?
Front of Vogue 1264 jacket and Vogue 1729 pants (they have a nice ankle pleat)
Final of 3 Japanese panels (first one in June) Assembly Line Long Sleeve Tunic
Front pattern piece was cut to accommodate panel
Terra Tunic from Love Notions-saved!! Are you supposed to READ pattern instructions?? Happens to all of us 🙂
Trio Pattern from Sewing Workshop and Barry Pant from StyleArc
Butterick 6856 in a beautiful silk and perfect buttons!

Happy Sewing!!

More Inspiration from June

We’ll be at First Sewing all day, Thursday, June 30 (end of another month!) Serger in the am and Sew Social pm. Still room for YOU!

Elodie Dress/Closet Core-Men’s Jacket/Simplicity 8962
Kingston Jacket/Sew Beautiful-York Top/Seamwork
Self drafted top
Inspired by buttons!
Vogue 1868
Anthea/Anna Allen
Remy Top
OOP Simplicity Kimono Jacket
What to do with a border print!
Remy Top/Sew House Seven
Hey, hey it’s the monkeys!!

We’ll be at Lakes Makerie on July 13 for the start of July Garment Sewing Group! See you there——

Serger Class starts next week AND June GSG

Our next Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts next Thursday, June 30 at 10 am at First Sewing, 494 and Penn! The class continues July 7 and 21. Go to “Classes at First Sewing” in the menu bar to register.

June Garment Sewing Group:

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy Jacket, Burda 6760, View C, Silk Matka and Rayon Crepe Lining

1. This is an unlined jacket so my first step was to draft lining pattern pieces. The sleeves are underlined. Also a dart in the sleeve creates a 2 piece look which I like. It eliminates a lot of bulk.

2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment but did not shorten length because it is a cropped style.

3. Due to the texture of the main fabric I only interfaced the under collar.

4. Also due to the texture of the fabric I did not top stitch.

5. This pattern is from 2015. It was a fun make and I also decreased my pattern collection.

Coral with Navy Dot Classic Blouse, NewLook 6698, View B, Cotton Sateen

1. As always I did my petite adjustments but did not shorten the hem length – this is a crop length shirt.

2. The pattern envelope gives yardage for a skirt. There is no skirt in this pattern – maybe a typing error. That should have been my first clue that the pattern had some flaws.

3. The neckband is too short for neck and the directions for collar insertion are poor.

4. The only feature different from my TNT blouse pattern is the “cuff”.

Navy Gingham Pants, Burda 7062, Gingham with Bemberg lining, see photo above

1. This pattern is from 2013 and has been updated in the catalog.

2. I eliminated the side slits and added a lining.

3. This is a TNT for me and it will stay in pattern collection.

Coral “Scraps” Blouse

Coral “Scraps” Blouse, Liesl+ Co Geneva V-Neck Blouse, Cotton lawn, stripe and sateen

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and removed 2 inches from the length. I also softened the shirt tail hem and removed length from there as well. The designer is tall!

2. I raised the v-neck 1 inch.

3. I changed construction steps because I wanted to have the neck band on the rs of the blouse. I used the shorten/lengthen line to determine the the length of back top and bottom.

4. I chose this pattern because of the lantern sleeve. I am not fan of v-neck blouses but I thought I would give it a try anyway.

5. It was a fun make even though the construction techniques are kind of putsy and 1/2 seam allowances are used – WHY?!

Kristin’s Garments:

Summer Jacket/The Fold London, Vogue 1648, Stretch woven blend

1. Pattern includes lining but didn’t want to lose the stretch of fabric so just used facings.

2. Very large pleat in back was topstitched through all layers-directions had it hanging loose-I wanted a bit more of a “yoke line” to copy garment.

3. Center front overlap was eliminated so no closure. Corners at collar were rounded.

4. This pattern was previously made in fleece. Fits surprisingly well (no forward shoulder needed, bust dart in proper place, sleeve is great.

Brick Summer Pants, Vanessa Fluid Pants/Jalie Patterns, Silk blend fabric? See photo below

1. Added 3” to length-omitted cuff.

2. Darts are extended 2” for a lower seat 🙂

3. Waist band is made into one continuous strip eliminating seams and tie.

4. Great pants pattern-TNT!

Woven Summer Blouse, Harmony Blouse/Love Notions, Rayon challis and Jalie Vanessa Pants

1. Made to pattern as the hip area is already wider.

2. Neck binding is supposed to be turned all the way under, I like wrapping the serged edge.

3. Center back seam has waist shaping but the opening isn’t necessary to get blouse on. I just sewed the button on permanently.

4. Several sleeve variations. Great summer woven tee with a dart.

5. Great fit for my body!

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck
Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Tomato rayon knit vee neck

1. Shortened length 2”.

2. Both necklines are great depthwise. Vee is quite pointed and the rayon fabric didn’t help. Pattern also includes a scoop neck and all sleeve length variations.

3. Definitely a TNT!

July 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, July 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, July 13, 10:30 Lakes Makerie, Mpls

Thursday, July 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap 🙂