May Garment Sewing Group Final

A few photos from the Saturday meeting at Quilter’s Haven-

Silhouette Patterns #575 hacked into a biking shirt
Summer dress-McCalls 5668
Simplicity 8061

And Debbie and Kristin’s garments-

Debbie’s Garments:

Shirt Dress

Simplicity 8014, View D, chambray

1. The only fitting adjustment needed was narrow shoulder. Unfortunately I cut the dress length too short – need to wear it with leggings.

2. I added a lining to the back yoke and used the burrito method to construct.

3. This was a fun make. The pattern offers several choices for length, sleeves and bodice. The Chambray fabric was easy to work with.

Itch to Stitch Medellin Top, cotton interlock and Love Notions Duet Trousers, stretch denim

1. IS patterns work well for me generally. I did not do any petite adjustments. Since I eliminated the bottom band I increased the body length pattern pieces by one inch.

2. The directions call for clear elastic for the shirring on side. I found that the gather stitches alone worked well so I did not use the elastic.

3. The pattern instructions are clear and concise and the fabric was great to work with.

Love Notions Duet Trousers, Stretch Denim

1. This is my second try at this pattern. The fabric choice makes a difference in sizing. The stretch denim I used was poor quality and shrunk 4 inches when I washed it. Live and Learn!

2. I eliminated the front pockets due to lack of fabric. I used the curvy waistband pattern piece instead of the straight piece.

3. The pattern can be used for stretch woven and stable knits.

4. I am not thrilled with this make. I will try a stable knit next time and then move on.

Itch to Stitch Galicia Top, cotton poplin
Button back

1. I petited the pattern between shoulder and bust and shortened the length by 2 inches.

2. The pattern has great construction techniques. There is an option for vertical darts which I chose to do. I also shortened the width of the cuff.

3. The pattern is a little out of my comfort zone but I am glad I gave it a try. I think it would be a fun special occasion top.

Kristin’s Garments

Burda 6114 Jacket, fleece and scuba knit and Ravinia Skirt, Love Notions in cotton interlock (version 1)

Jacket, Burda 6114

1. Made size 16/18 at hip. Sizing seemed great.

2. Folded 3/4” out of collar lengthwise. Collar is taller in front, probably would change that in future jackets as it just stands up and doesn’t seem to want to lay in a “collarly” fashion. Didn’t interface.

3. Pockets according to pattern were just a passing thought-instead cut 6×9” rectangles and 3 layers so that anywhere the pocket showed would be my knit print. Pockets went from seam to seam and were topstitched through outer fabric across the top. Very happy with them.

4. Changed up zipper installation-folded collar and hem over zip, stitched and turned right side out. Very important (I think): handbasted from pocket top up and down to ensure all meeting points were happy.

5. Left sleeve hems very deep (sleeves were 2”+ too long) so white wrong side of scuba doesn’t show.

Midi Length Knit SkirtRavinia Skirt/Love NotionsCotton knit

1. Oh, my, how could I have been so blind!! I had traveled down the Instagram/email rabbit hole and saw this pattern which matched a picture I had cut out of a catalog numerous times!! How could I have missed the photos of the test garments?

2. But the skirt was already cut out so sew it I must. It isn’t so bad-I knew it was an a-line skirt and that the waist band had negative ease (5-7”) but I didn’t understand that the waist edge of the skirt also had the same negative ease. I was hoping for a few tucks and pleats as the waistband was stretched to meet the skirt. Nope-I had to stretch the skirt to fit the waistband that I cut out two sizes larger to accommodate the fact that my waist was larger than the pattern measurements (not a problem if the skirt is gathered into the negative ease waistband!)

3. The gathered pocket went in well and to be fair there are some funny puckers in my inspiration picture where gathers go all the way to waist.

4. I added 4” to the calf length of the skirt. A narrow elastic is applied to the top waistband seam for extra security.

5. If I make this again, I will get rid of the A-line and add fabric at waist so it has gathers all around 🙂

6. So I went home Wednesday night and made another skirt, this time using the full 60” width of the fabric as my skirt and applying the pockets and gathering the 60” to the negative ease waistband. Now that’s what I had in mind!!

Ravinia Skirt, Version 1-hem width 100” plus Version 2 (being worn)-gathers at waist and 60” hem width
Pleat Detail Dress and Top/Maker’s Atelier, cotton lawn

1. Made size medium to pattern except for a few construction changes.

2. Seam allowances are 3/8” which makes it a little trickier to serge seam allowances and sew seams but I wanted a nice flat press.

3. Pattern instructions assume you will do things and doesn’t tell you to-understitching facing, finishing facing edges, pleats should have been basted to make pressing easier, etc.

4. There’s a tiny slit in sleeve opening (cuff edge) that may be to allow for more ease but it’s pretty small and not shown on pattern.

Vogue 8616 (OOP) in activewear fleece
Burda 6367 in activewear fleece

1. Both are patterns I’ve made before. The Vogue pattern was quite recent-this time I cut off the folded facing and banded the whole opening. Much better and less fussy than the folded facing.

2. The Burda pattern always feels like home to me-shoulders are a bit dropped but not too much. The whole thing feels like a cozy sweatshirt that wears a bit more like a long sleeve tee.

Wool Sweater

Karine Jalie #4242 in wool knit

1. Had to try this pattern again in something a bit more basic than the other patch work one. Still like it. No changes. Goes together well.

June Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, June 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, June 10, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, June 14, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Last of April Photos

This is the Lakes Makerie owner’s daughter in Burnside Bibs from Sew House Seven. Several of us bit hard and bought the pattern (I have the fabric in my stash-still some in the store when we were there. We left a few patterns at the store for you to buy or it is now on sale and they have some fun free extensions for the pattern. Hmmm…might have to get busy 🙂

Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs
Metra Blazer/Love Notions in knit
Self drafted pattern using scraps
#2 same as above
Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Fun back detail on Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Mini Marcel/Chalk and Notch
Simplicity 1318
Ashton/Helen’s Closet
Vogue 1277/multiple fabrics and stitching
McCalls 7061
OOP KwikSew with self drafted cuff
Helen’s Closet Moss Jacket
Fringe Dress/Chalk and Notch (there’s a mini version also)
Trio Shirt/Sewing Workshop and Burda 7400 pant
Great warm weather top/can’t remember pattern #
Stanton Tee/Cashmerette
Blanca Flight Suit/Closet Core
In case you need a new tool! Rave reviews!

Wednesday’s Sewing Inspiration

Our very spring-ish meeting at Sewing Lounge today was wonderful! Thursday we’ll be at First Sewing and fabric swapping. Saturday is at Lakes Makerie-hope you can make it!!!

Here’s the link for the YouTube video Debbie mentioned-https://youtu.be/RWfxYYb165k. Enjoy!

George & Ginger 40K Sway Top-free!
Sewing Workshop Maison Joggers with a few adjustments 🙂
Sewing Workshop Picasso Top-also a few adjustments
Sew House Seven Toaster One
And Toaster Two!
Beautiful trim on an Onde Jacket/Sewing Workshop
Bernie’s Award Winning Shirt
Ready to Sew Janis Top
Closet Core Sienna #1
Sienna #2
Sienna #3
Back detail
Sentosa Tank Itch to Stitch
Dawn Jeans by Megan Nielsen
McCalls 8047 Jumpsuit

The People We Rub Shoulders With-

Like Bernie, the winner of Ginny’s Fine Fabrics Shirt contest!! We are working with Bernie to teach shirt technique classes next month. Learn from a pro!! Dates and times soon-

He’ll be at Garment Sewing Group this month (although we hear he’s been relining a wool coat so might not have a new shirt) and you can congratulate him!

Garment Sewing Group this week-

Wednesday, April 12 at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul
Thursday, April 13 at First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, April 15 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Meeting Saturday at Treadle

Last chance for March Garment Sewing Group today at Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30 am.

Here are photos from our meeting on Thursday at First Sewing-

Butterick 6802 in linen minus 10” in length and longer sleeves
All the dots matched along the pleat!!
Now Jacket as modified in Sewing Workshop Club-pinwale cord, E-tee and Helix pant-all Sewing Workshop patterns
Japanese pattern in cable knit
Adaptation of Tremont Jacket
Burda 6990
I Spy quilt/Happy grandma 🙂
Simplicity 9275 in knit
Katherine Tilton blouse in lightweight wool
Burda 6463 as vest in wool
Vogue 1899
Liesl & Co Verdun Woven T-shirt

Wednesday at Lakes Makerie

Yesterday was our first March meeting-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, March 9 and at Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. Here’s what we saw at Lakes-

Stacker Jacket by Papercut Patterns in corduroy
Stacker Jacket, back view
New Look 6659 in denim
Sew House Seven Albert Street Skirt in stretch twill available at Lakes
Versatile Top and Pants from Tauko #5
Soho Coat from Sewing Workshop in wool
Chateau Coat from Sewing Workshop in double sided wool
Remy Top from Sew House Seven with free sleeve extension
Latest and greatest men’s shirt!
Cuff detail
Collar detail
Beautiful handwork

Your February Makes

Vests based on Tremont Jacket from Sewing Workshop
Vintage Shirt with tower placket
Talvikki Sweater/Named in double sided fleece
Attitude Pullover/Peekaboo Patterns
Neighborhood Hoodie/Liesl & Co. and Girl’s Dress/McCalls 6915
Carole’s sketches are always fun to see!
Self drafted sari skirt
Opal Coat/Paprika Patterns and Pants/KwikSew 3115
Logan Shacket/StyleArc in corduroy
Gallery Tunic/Liesl & Co
Hayward Tunic/StyleArc
Vest/Simplicity 1506
Vest/Butterick 6328 and Dress/New Look 6428-all the way from Texas!
A Way With Stripes/Simplicity 8556
Clare Coat/Closet Core
Elle Shirt With Mixit Top/Sewing Workshop in wool
Ikina Jacket 2/Sewing Workshop
What to do with a remnant of silk? Shoulder seams and buttons!

What will you be sewing for March-that in between, “I don’t really want to sew more wool but it’s still COLD” month!!

February Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Light and Shadow/Cutting Line Designs/Boiled wool

1. Cut size small and petited between shoulders and bust but not length.

2. Stabilized the hems with Steam a Seam and then topstitched.

3. Used a serged bias finish for armholes.

4. This vest requires a lot of fabric due to the neck cowl but is worth it.

5. The fabric requires a great amount of steaming, press and pounding but again well worth it.

Vogue 1541/Cotton shirting

1. This is my second make from this pattern. I like her construction techniques but find the sleeves very narrow.

2. I petited between the shoulder and bust and shortened the front placket 7” and cut it on the bias.

3. I also straightened the outside collar edges instead of using the curve shape.

4. Her collar instructions are a little tricky so I used my own method. It’s a fun make but time to move onto another pattern for a woven tunic.

Navy Travel Pants/Jalie Vanessa #3676/Poly travel fabric-hard to see in photo 🙂

1. This is TNT pattern for me and thought it would work for a staple travel pant, especially on a plane.

2. Polyester is never my first choice but in this case it worked well for my needs.

3. I converted the waistband to one piece and eliminated the faux fly zipper.

4. A quick make and a versatile pattern.

McCalls 7360, View A/Japanese cotton gauze

1. I did not need to petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten the sleeve length by one inch.

2. The pattern has a 2 piece sleeve which I like but I would do a continuous or tower placket next time.

3. I used a burrito roll for the yoke and applied placket and cuffs ws to rs.

4. I will use this pattern again – other than out dated construction techniques it checks a lot of boxes.

Simplicity 7194, View A/Organic cotton knit and ribbing

1. Another TNT pattern that I often hack to meet my needs or my fabric needs- in this case too much stretch!

2. I changed the cowl to a T neck by removing width and length from pattern piece. If I did it again I would make the T neck out of ribbing but I didn’t have enough ribbing after making bottom band and cuffs from ribbing.

3. I wanted more of a boxy fit so I straightened the side seams from bust to hem.

Kristin’s Garments:

Burda 5941/Assorted corduroys and wovens

1. Made a size 16 for bodice, size 18 at hips.

2. One piece collar went in very easily with facings.

3. Sleeves went in flat very well.

4. Bust dart built in with the two horizontal seams. Makes pocket application a bit awkward.

5. Front placket is part of front facing-worked well.

6. Took sleeves and side seam at bust in 1/2” and that improved the fit by a lot.

T:201 Elastic Tie Sweater/The Assembly Line/Pendleton wool

1. Loved working with the wool! Fit turned out to be wonderful-size medium.

2. Elbow dart in sleeve; sleeve facing at hem.

3. Learned how to use eyelet stitch but it was a bit small for the tie.

4. Made a narrow hem-would add to length next time.

5. Made elastic cording from cotton knit-jersey rolls to right side (wrong side shows) on crossgrain and to wrong side (right side shows) on straight of grain.

T:201 Elastic Tie Sweater/The Assembly Line/Cotton waffle knit

1. Omitted neck facing and holes for ties.

2. Took dart out of sleeve:

1. Draw a line from hem to tip of dart, parallel to grainline.

2. Fold dart closed.

3. Draw straight line from armscye (close to side seam) to each side of newly opened area.

4. Fold this newly drawn “dart” closed.

5. True up the hem.

3. Finished the neck edge and hems with knit strips and sewed all seams with knit strips.

4. Took in sleeves and side seams by 1/2” to down size from woven pattern.

OOPVogue 8616/Activewear knits

1. Split neck version-shaped front and back center seams. Vee seemed to open too high for comfort so fiddled with that.

2. Pattern calls for a neck zipper but not necessary.

OOP Vogue 8616/Activewear knits

3. Wrap version-shoulder seams continue up to folded over neck edge. Stitched down the fold to keep things neat.

March 2023 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, March 8, 10:30 Lakes Makerie

Thursday, March 9, 10:30 First Sewing

Saturday, March 11, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods

Wednesday Photos

Here are pics from yesterday-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, and then at Sewing Lounge on Saturday. Great sewing!!

Madrid Top/Sewing Workshop adapted to knits and no front closure-knit from Sewing Lounge
Sew House Seven in yummy bamboo fleece from Sewing Lounge
Art Gallery knits inButterick 6633
Renee Pant/Jalie in preteen size (long legs 🙂
Roxy from Stylearc in wool from Sewing Lounge
Marley Shirt/Stylearc
Vogue 9347 Blouse adapted to jacket
Vintage men’s shirt pattern in double fleece
Beautiful wool/silk self drafted to use every thread 🙂
Eureka/Sewing Workshop in soft knit for the perfect vest
KwikSew 2896-made for Valentine’s Day-jacket
Anything But Ordinary/Cutting Line Designs and lined!
Jarrah Top/Megan Nielsen in textured knit from Quilter’s Haven
The other Jarrah Top in waffle knit from Quilter’s Haven
Ebony Tunic/Closet Core-gray knit from Quilter’s Haven

This Week’s Meetings/Last Week’s Classes

Garment Sewing Group week is upon us! Hope to see you!!

Wednesday, 2/8 at Quilters’ Haven, 2930 146th St Suite 108
Rosemount MN 55068. We were there for a fall Saturday meeting.

Thursday, 2/9 at First Sewing, Southtown Center, Bloomington AND Fabric Swap!

Saturday, 2/11 at The Sewing Lounge, 987 Selby Av., St. Paul

Last week was our first day of classes in the Lakes Makerie space-Open Studio and Basic Sergery-