October Garment Sewing Group Starts Saturday

The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!

So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am

Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com

Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!

A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!

August Garments

Debbie’s Garments- Topping off summer!

Sea Glass Dotted Swiss Peplum Blouse

Simplicity 8384, View D

Cotton

1. Did standard petite adjustments and lowered bust dart.

2. Inserted button placket rs facing to ws shirt, opposite of instructions. I feel it gives a clean finish on both ws and rs, easier to topstitch and no slip stitching.

3. Did split hem on sleeve but did not follow pattern instructions – see sample.

4. Serged clear elastic along back waist rather than making a casing as pattern directs.

Coral Asymmetrical Placket Blouse

Grainline Studio Augusta Shirt

Tencel and cotton twill

1. Made too many petite adjustments – my fault, not a good choice for me.

2. Good construction techniques.

3. I find their sizing difficult – too much of a gap between body measurements and finished measurements.

4. Chose not to turn up cuff on sleeve.

Plaid Tunic

Simplicity 9130

Linen

1.Did standard petite adjustments as well as narrow shoulder.

2. Sewed the rs of facing to ws of front. Again, clean finish in and out, easier to topstitch and gives the top some detail.

3. Did bias edge finish on armhole as pattern directs.

Rusty Dolman Tee

Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops

Cotton Modal

1. Did standard petite adjustments but feel I would shorten in length and maybe go down a size. 

2. Pattern finishes all edges with fold over and topstitch. I added a neckband at neck edge and then did fold and topstitch on hems.

Kristin’s Garments

Summer Dress

Vogue 1698, View A

Seersucker

1. Constructed per instructions except didn’t interface the seersucker collar or placket. Collar would have been better with some interfacing.

2. Placket was straightforward-my topstitching of bottom of placket was not 🙂

3. Fit issues centered around bust/underarm/shoulder area. Should the horizontal seam be at bust point??? Took in side seams to underarm 3/4” and moved top of sleeve in 2” to alleviate sagging.

WearWithAll Skort

Jalie 2796 Multi-Sport Skort

Navy activewear knit

1. Lengthened 3” and chose the wider waistband.

2. Compression shorts are compressing! Recut 4 sizes up and was happy with less compression.

3. No elastic in waistband is really comfortable.

4. Next time I will make the short from a lighter fabric-whole skort is heavy.

5. Love the pockets and side detail.

Summer Jumpsuit

Kielo Jumpsuit by Named

Black cotton knit and floral novelty knit

1. Just had to try this jumpsuit after seeing it on Brenda. Perfect for relaxing after a hot summer day or, with this floral, going out on the town. Not too close fitting but not too baggy.

2. Sizing is according to bust as there’s ample space everywhere else 🙂 You want shoulder/bust area to fit.

3. Pattern directions are awesome with the neck/shoulder area all finished off with burrito roll techniques and under stitching. Facings need to be tacked down.

4. Fit was spot on for my chosen size-underarms and all-unless it starts growing as the day goes on.

5. Back closure was raised about 4” to cover straps.

Until Wednesday…

Our last meeting of July’s Garment Sewing Group is this Wednesday, July 14th, 10:30 am at Lakes Makerie. This is our “On the Go” version-just for fun.

Until then, here is some inspiration from our Thursday and Saturday meetings-

A new generation of superheroes-thanks to Grandma!
Rina just finished Fashion Design classes at Minneapolis College-she’ll be at Mpls. Fashion Week in September!
Here’s the garment on her model-
Fajita Skirt from LJ Designs
Roxy Blouse from StyleArc
Vintage patterns

June’s Garment Sewing Group

We’re back in person. It seems sudden and wonderful and hard to remember what we’re supposed to do!

Thanks to everyone who attended-both in person and on Zoom. It was so good to see real faces again! See you in July-

Kristin’s Garments

Crinkled Linen Kimono

Burda 6244

Washed linen

1. Wanted a lightweight jacket in this crinkly, lovely colored linen. Listened to Linda Lee on YouTube-https://youtu.be/lEzd3WhK91— and decided to use a kimono pattern to minimize the challenges of working with the crinkle fabric.

2. Stabilized back neck, shoulders, sleeve cap and interfaced sleeve band and neckband.

3. I was able to use differential feed to finish edges of hem and then turn up and coverstitch with differential feed also.

4. I regret coverstitching the neckband as it waved a bit but guessing a second washing (I washed after construction to see what happens) and I won’t even be able to tell.

5. Garment is 4” shorter than pattern-ran out of fabric but also like it this length.

6. Shortened sleeves and added band for a more finished look than pattern.

Plum Tee

Classic Tee by Love Notions

Cotton Interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit

1. Made to pattern except for increasing hips one size. Love the flexibility of this pattern and the range of sizes. Great basic!!

Straight Leg Cropped Pant

Free Range Slacks by Sew House Seven

Linen

1. Made to pattern according to measurements. It’s a high waisted pant with roomy legs but a comfortable/close fit at hips.

2. Side strip gives a break up line for both front and side view.

3. Facing at waistband is nice for reducing bulk-I used rayon to further reduce bulk.

4. Omitted side pockets but put in one back pocket for cell phone. Fun inseam application.

Plum Tunic

Terra Tunic by Love Notions

Cotton interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit

1. Made the scoop version-will make it more crew next time-just personal preference.

2. Fabric made for a looser fit.

3. Mitered the corners on side seams as opposed to square fold in directions. Deep 2+’’ hem.

4. Length is to pattern. Made Large through shoulders and went to XL at hip.

Sailor Tunic

Terra Tunic by Love Notions-version 2

Cotton French terry-more cotton in stripe than solid

1. Made the boatneck version-facing, interfaced and all. Love it. Fits very nicely.

2. Wish I could say that for the rest of the top!! The plum tunic above was saggy baggy so I cut may pattern down to a medium at the shoulders and large at hips. Evidently I didn’t check amount of stretch. Still love it but will gift to daughter 🙂

Dandelion Green Tee

Melrose Top by Itch to Stitch

Rayon challis

1. One more of these in a great print. Fabric has been in stash. Got the lower band wide enough this time. Fixed the last one by opening up side seam bands and making vent.

2. This class is still available June 24 and July 1, 1-3 pm at First Sewing, Bloomington.

Debbie’s Garments:

Poppy Day Brightener Dress

Very Easy Vogue 8764

Yarn Dyed Cotton Shirting

1. Did my standard petite adjustments and narrow shoulder and rounded back changes.

2. I changed the V neck opening to a scoop and did not line the dress as pattern directs.

3. I did a serged bias edge for neckline and placed the zipper one inch lower than neck edge.

4. To adjust for fit and construction techniques I prefer I changed the order of construction.

5. The pattern is one I have been wanting to try for awhile and I am generally  pleased with it, except for the large scoop neckline.

Orange Gingham Ruffle Sleeve Blouse

Amy Butler Liverpool Blouse Pattern

1. This is a favorite blouse pattern. I haven’t used it for awhile and found I needed to do some new fitting adjustments for lots of reasons! They include petiting between bust and shoulder, narrow shoulder adjustment

2. I also hacked the pattern a bit to copy a RTW look by shortening the hem and changing to a shirt tail style, and eliminating the cuff and adding a band and ruffle to the sleeve.

3. I did add interfacing to collar and placket because the gingham is light weight.

4. The designer of the pattern is a quilter so I did change some construction  techniques that I prefer.

Coral Blazer

Metra Blazer with shawl collar by Love Notions

100% poly Ponte

1. I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust and shortened front, back and sleeve length by 2 inches.

2. I love the shawl  collar and the faux welt pocket. Great designer details and very good sewing instructions.

3. The fabric sewed up beautifully using my seger but not the sewing machine.  Therefore I needed to adjust some sewing techniques and use  steam a seam on the hems.

4. I usually line the sleeves of an unlined jacket but due to the slippery feel of the fabric and the fact that it is a knit, lining the sleeves was not necessary.

5. It’s a wearable muslin that I will make again.

July Garment Sewing Group-Stay tuned for changes may happen 🙂

Thursday, July 8, 10:30, Zoom

Saturday, July 10, 10:30

Tuesday, July 13, 10:30 we may change to Wednesdays

Pattern Review Weekend, Anyone?

Always on the lookout for sewing related things to do, we’ve decided to take in the Pattern Review Weekend as it is so close by in Chicago. Our rooms and flights are booked-now all we have to do is decide which indie (or other) patterns to try before we go.

Dates are Friday and Saturday, May 15-16. Check-in is Thursday night, a full day of panel discussions, etc. and a dinner on Friday and shopping on Saturday.

Grainline Studio, Jalie, Janet Pray of Islander Patterns and Angela Wolf will be on the panel.

We’d love to have company so email us if you are planning to go to.

Here’s the link.

Coffee Break Perusing

Guest Post from Kenzie Carlson

Dear Sewists,

Here are a few examples of how I use Pattern Review (patternreview.com).

I’m having a great time experimenting with making knit tee’s in a non-bias fashion using the bias Burda pattern 7509. I wondered if there’s a simple men’s tee pattern…not that I want to switch gears to make something for my husband at this time. So, I looked at Pattern Review during my coffee break from sewing.

I found this posting that has directions on how to make a design on freezer paper, iron it to the shirt, and spray paint. Now, how cool is that!

I noticed that this sewer has 85 reviews, so I took a look to see what other creative things she has:

Then, THIS Amy Butler bag took my eye because MOST Amy Butler bags are made with colorful quilting material. This had wording and looked different! Turns out, it’s made with rice bags, plus there’s an inside insulated pocket for refrigerated items when using for market purchases. (This is a very creative sewer!!)

Weeks ago, killing time looking at Accessories on Pattern Review, I came across this Obi Bag from Sewing Workshop. Turns out the pattern is OOP, but by reading the reviews, I think I can duplicate it. I found material and it’s in the hopper, waiting to be made.

This sewer has 60 reviews and here’s more inspiration to tack onto my “to do” sewing list:


As I’ve mentioned before, daily (usually!), I scan the Review Gallery (under Sewing Reviews on the home page, 1/2 way down the left side) for inspiration. Pattern Review has a variety of garments and you never know what will be posted.

I look at other websites/facebook, too, such as Tilton and Sagers, which are wonderful for ideas especially on different looks for one pattern; how to change things up to get the most out of one pattern. To me, this is extremely important because the pattern work of fitting is the most time consuming. Once something fits (darts in right place, shorten/lengthen lines adjusted, etc), then the fun can begin!

Coffee break done – back to sewing!

JAY -lee, Jolly, how do you say Jalie?

The first Jalie pattern I made was the woman’s Twist Top, and although I liked the fit of the top I wasn’t a fan of the format of their instructions. Instructions are printed together with all construction pictures grouped together – not integrated into the text – and I won’t mention the small the type face… But in the end, the top was fairly easy to put together, the style is feminine and flattering. I’ve made two so far.

Last month I made the Scarf-Collar Top. I was able to put this top together in a couple of hours – and I quickly had a comfortable, fashionable top to wear to work. Jalie has an interesting method for sewing the scarf onto the neck line so that there are no exposed seams. Jalie hit the mark again – another fashionable, feminine, well fitting, easy top! (P.S. please excuse the wrinkles in my picture – my photo assistant wasn’t doing his job ; ) )

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Posted by Carrie Diamont