I know, it’s September already-trying to catch up…
September 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, September 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester
Wednesday, September 14, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
And here’s what we sewed in August—-
Debbie’s Garments:
Cadence Dress-Love Notions-Japanese cotton
Did not petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten length on front, back and sleeves by 2 inches.
This was a fun, easy and quick make. I am fan of Love Notions patterns. I appreciate all the options for sleeves, necklines and lengths offered. The bust darts help in shaping and the dress can easily slip over your head but a zipper closure is optional.
Butterick 5616-Linen
I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.
The under collar is the only pattern piece interfaced due to the fabric texture.
I changed the order of construction and added petersham ribbon to inside collar for a clean finish instead of slip stitching.
I did not enjoy working with this fabric – too shifty.
The jacket end product isn’t what I had in my mind for a go to jean jacket. I think my choice of fabric had a lot to do with the end result.
KwikSew 3555-Italian cotton
This is my favorite classic shirt pattern. If you can not find this particular pattern on line try a similar pattern from Cashmerette, Love Notions, Sewaholic, Grainline or the big four.
Jalie Dolman Top-French Terry and cotton interlock
I raised the front neckline one inch and used a neckband to finish neck edge.
I left the hem length for front as is but shortened back length by 2 inches.
This tee will be perfect for end of summer evenings and it decreased my fabric stash a bit – always a good thing.
Kristin’s Garments:
Simplicity 9136-linen floral and rayon stripe
Made a size 16 top and skirt. Size was perfect.
Cut 2” off of bottom edge of bodice to raise waist. Helped a lot!
Great fit through bust and shoulders.
New Look 6607-linen
1. Added 5” to skirt and raised waist on bodice 1.5”. Needed to piece the center fronts but like the result.
2. Pattern well written. Used rayon for muslin and skirt draped more than it did with the linen.
3. Made size 14.
Barry Woven Pant-Stylearc-linen
Pattern instructions from Stylearc seem to be getting better! Pants easy to put together.
Very much the “lantern pant” I’ve been looking for!
A beautiful summer Saturday and great sewing inspiration!
We’ll be at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis, on Wednesday, July 13 and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, July 14 (and FABRIC SWAP). Both start at 10:30 am!
Japanese panel in Vogue 1264Vogue 1264-who’s still got it in their stash?Front of Vogue 1264 jacket and Vogue 1729 pants (they have a nice ankle pleat)Final of 3 Japanese panels (first one in June) Assembly Line Long Sleeve TunicFront pattern piece was cut to accommodate panelTerra Tunic from Love Notions-saved!! Are you supposed to READ pattern instructions?? Happens to all of us 🙂Trio Pattern from Sewing Workshop and Barry Pant from StyleArcButterick 6856 in a beautiful silk and perfect buttons!
Thursday, April 14, First Sewing, Bloomington AND FABRIC SWAP!
And keeping up with last month’s meeting-
Debbie’s Garments:
Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress, Cotton
1. Made petite adjustment between shoulder and bust and shortened length by one inch.
2. I reversed construction technique for button placket to add contrast interest.
3. Also did burrito roll for yoke rather than slipstitch method.
4. Since my first make from this pattern was the gathered view I wanted to try the other view and I am very glad I did and will probably make it again.
Love Notions Vivace Tunic, Rayon Lawn
1. Made my standard petite adjustments but did not shorten length.
2. Due to lack of fabric and one way design I cut apart the back to create a lined yoke and used contrast fabric for facing.
3. I like how this pattern is relaxed and yet isn’t too oversized. A fun make that I will do agin.
Love Notions Terra Tunic, Cotton jersey with spandex
1. Using my remnants and copying RTW, I was able to make my favorite tunic pattern.
2. I cut apart front, back and sleeves, added seam allowance and carefully constructed the boatneck. The most difficult part was adapting the white upper sleeve because it couldn’t be cut straight across at the hem. Once I figured out that I added a coral rectangle to the upper sleeve and placed the the sleeve pattern onto of fabric to get the shape of the sleeve correct. Then I was able to determine the length of the coral section and added the bottom lavender potion. All this was done while the body of the tee was on my mannequin. Whew – not as easy as I thought.
3. The construction of the boatneck and side slits are very good and not at all difficult.
4. This is a TNT pattern with so many options – I will be making more.
McCalls 7122, Viscose print and cotton jersey solid
1. Still making use of remnants I was able to gain more storage space for new fabric and have fun tee to wear. Its a win win!
2. The cotton jersey is easy to work with, the viscose not so much.
3. Another TNT pattern that I will using again with or without remnants.
Kristin’s Garments
New Look 6588, various fleeces and knits
1. Made to pattern to get an idea of fit. It is unisex so quite oversized but all the pics I saw were drop shoulder at least.
2. Glad that I chose a stripe for the neck to see how it worked. All pieces went together perfectly. Turning corners as in Tabor Vee and worked like a charm.
3. Whacked off lots of fabric but pleased with the results. Not quite what I was hoping for in the end but I have a great pattern piece to hack on to a better fitting tunic.
1. Moved bust dart and widened at hip but otherwise great shoulders and all.
2. Wish I would have matched vertical stripes!
3. Sleeves were supposed to be cinched with a band-more trench coat-like. Tapered instead.
Helmi Trench Blouse and Dress by Named
Helmi Trench Dress/Named Patterns, Corduroy
1. Same fit adjustments. Very happy with results. I have added 2” to skirt length.
Nicole/Jalie Patterns #3903
1. The Nicole pattern has a bodice piece and skirt piece that is to be joined when you cut it out but I had these two fabrics as remnants and have always wanted them together. Perfect opportunity!
2. Neckband has been shortened by 1/4” (1/2” total).
3. Faux pockets added to accommodate a flaw in the fabric discovered only after unfolding the already cut out skirt piece.
April 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, April 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, April 13, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, April 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!
December’s meetings are:
Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle
Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)
Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.
Hope to see you!!
Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing WorkshopAnd then there were two…Light and Shadows from Cutting Line DesignsA chic thriftstore upcycleAn oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!
The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!
So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:
Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am
Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com
Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!
A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!
1. Did standard petite adjustments and lowered bust dart.
2. Inserted button placket rs facing to ws shirt, opposite of instructions. I feel it gives a clean finish on both ws and rs, easier to topstitch and no slip stitching.
3. Did split hem on sleeve but did not follow pattern instructions – see sample.
4. Serged clear elastic along back waist rather than making a casing as pattern directs.
Coral Asymmetrical Placket Blouse
Grainline Studio Augusta Shirt
Tencel and cotton twill
1. Made too many petite adjustments – my fault, not a good choice for me.
2. Good construction techniques.
3. I find their sizing difficult – too much of a gap between body measurements and finished measurements.
4. Chose not to turn up cuff on sleeve.
Plaid Tunic
Simplicity 9130
Linen
1.Did standard petite adjustments as well as narrow shoulder.
2. Sewed the rs of facing to ws of front. Again, clean finish in and out, easier to topstitch and gives the top some detail.
3. Did bias edge finish on armhole as pattern directs.
Rusty Dolman Tee
Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops
Cotton Modal
1. Did standard petite adjustments but feel I would shorten in length and maybe go down a size.
2. Pattern finishes all edges with fold over and topstitch. I added a neckband at neck edge and then did fold and topstitch on hems.
Kristin’s Garments
Summer Dress
Vogue 1698, View A
Seersucker
1. Constructed per instructions except didn’t interface the seersucker collar or placket. Collar would have been better with some interfacing.
2. Placket was straightforward-my topstitching of bottom of placket was not 🙂
3. Fit issues centered around bust/underarm/shoulder area. Should the horizontal seam be at bust point??? Took in side seams to underarm 3/4” and moved top of sleeve in 2” to alleviate sagging.
WearWithAll Skort
Jalie 2796 Multi-Sport Skort
Navy activewear knit
1. Lengthened 3” and chose the wider waistband.
2. Compression shorts are compressing! Recut 4 sizes up and was happy with less compression.
3. No elastic in waistband is really comfortable.
4. Next time I will make the short from a lighter fabric-whole skort is heavy.
5. Love the pockets and side detail.
Summer Jumpsuit
Kielo Jumpsuit by Named
Black cotton knit and floral novelty knit
1. Just had to try this jumpsuit after seeing it on Brenda. Perfect for relaxing after a hot summer day or, with this floral, going out on the town. Not too close fitting but not too baggy.
2. Sizing is according to bust as there’s ample space everywhere else 🙂 You want shoulder/bust area to fit.
3. Pattern directions are awesome with the neck/shoulder area all finished off with burrito roll techniques and under stitching. Facings need to be tacked down.
4. Fit was spot on for my chosen size-underarms and all-unless it starts growing as the day goes on.
5. Back closure was raised about 4” to cover straps.
Our last meeting of July’s Garment Sewing Group is this Wednesday, July 14th, 10:30 am at Lakes Makerie. This is our “On the Go” version-just for fun.
Until then, here is some inspiration from our Thursday and Saturday meetings-
A new generation of superheroes-thanks to Grandma!Rina just finished Fashion Design classes at Minneapolis College-she’ll be at Mpls. Fashion Week in September!Here’s the garment on her model-Fajita Skirt from LJ DesignsRoxy Blouse from StyleArcVintage patterns
We’re back in person. It seems sudden and wonderful and hard to remember what we’re supposed to do!
Thanks to everyone who attended-both in person and on Zoom. It was so good to see real faces again! See you in July-
Kristin’s Garments
Crinkled Linen Kimono
Burda 6244
Washed linen
1. Wanted a lightweight jacket in this crinkly, lovely colored linen. Listened to Linda Lee on YouTube-https://youtu.be/lEzd3WhK91— and decided to use a kimono pattern to minimize the challenges of working with the crinkle fabric.
2. Stabilized back neck, shoulders, sleeve cap and interfaced sleeve band and neckband.
3. I was able to use differential feed to finish edges of hem and then turn up and coverstitch with differential feed also.
4. I regret coverstitching the neckband as it waved a bit but guessing a second washing (I washed after construction to see what happens) and I won’t even be able to tell.
5. Garment is 4” shorter than pattern-ran out of fabric but also like it this length.
6. Shortened sleeves and added band for a more finished look than pattern.
Plum Tee
Classic Tee by Love Notions
Cotton Interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit
1. Made to pattern except for increasing hips one size. Love the flexibility of this pattern and the range of sizes. Great basic!!
Straight Leg Cropped Pant
Free Range Slacks by Sew House Seven
Linen
1. Made to pattern according to measurements. It’s a high waisted pant with roomy legs but a comfortable/close fit at hips.
2. Side strip gives a break up line for both front and side view.
3. Facing at waistband is nice for reducing bulk-I used rayon to further reduce bulk.
4. Omitted side pockets but put in one back pocket for cell phone. Fun inseam application.
Plum Tunic
Terra Tunic by Love Notions
Cotton interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit
1. Made the scoop version-will make it more crew next time-just personal preference.
2. Fabric made for a looser fit.
3. Mitered the corners on side seams as opposed to square fold in directions. Deep 2+’’ hem.
4. Length is to pattern. Made Large through shoulders and went to XL at hip.
Sailor Tunic
Terra Tunic by Love Notions-version 2
Cotton French terry-more cotton in stripe than solid
1. Made the boatneck version-facing, interfaced and all. Love it. Fits very nicely.
2. Wish I could say that for the rest of the top!! The plum tunic above was saggy baggy so I cut may pattern down to a medium at the shoulders and large at hips. Evidently I didn’t check amount of stretch. Still love it but will gift to daughter 🙂
Dandelion Green Tee
Melrose Top by Itch to Stitch
Rayon challis
1. One more of these in a great print. Fabric has been in stash. Got the lower band wide enough this time. Fixed the last one by opening up side seam bands and making vent.
2. This class is still available June 24 and July 1, 1-3 pm at First Sewing, Bloomington.
Debbie’s Garments:
Poppy Day Brightener Dress
Very Easy Vogue 8764
Yarn Dyed Cotton Shirting
1. Did my standard petite adjustments and narrow shoulder and rounded back changes.
2. I changed the V neck opening to a scoop and did not line the dress as pattern directs.
3. I did a serged bias edge for neckline and placed the zipper one inch lower than neck edge.
4. To adjust for fit and construction techniques I prefer I changed the order of construction.
5. The pattern is one I have been wanting to try for awhile and I am generally pleased with it, except for the large scoop neckline.
Orange Gingham Ruffle Sleeve Blouse
Amy Butler Liverpool Blouse Pattern
1. This is a favorite blouse pattern. I haven’t used it for awhile and found I needed to do some new fitting adjustments for lots of reasons! They include petiting between bust and shoulder, narrow shoulder adjustment
2. I also hacked the pattern a bit to copy a RTW look by shortening the hem and changing to a shirt tail style, and eliminating the cuff and adding a band and ruffle to the sleeve.
3. I did add interfacing to collar and placket because the gingham is light weight.
4. The designer of the pattern is a quilter so I did change some construction techniques that I prefer.
Coral Blazer
Metra Blazer with shawl collar by Love Notions
100% poly Ponte
1. I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust and shortened front, back and sleeve length by 2 inches.
2. I love the shawl collar and the faux welt pocket. Great designer details and very good sewing instructions.
3. The fabric sewed up beautifully using my seger but not the sewing machine. Therefore I needed to adjust some sewing techniques and use steam a seam on the hems.
4. I usually line the sleeves of an unlined jacket but due to the slippery feel of the fabric and the fact that it is a knit, lining the sleeves was not necessary.
5. It’s a wearable muslin that I will make again.
July Garment Sewing Group-Stay tuned for changes may happen 🙂
Thursday, July 8, 10:30, Zoom
Saturday, July 10, 10:30
Tuesday, July 13, 10:30 we may change to Wednesdays
Always on the lookout for sewing related things to do, we’ve decided to take in the Pattern Review Weekend as it is so close by in Chicago. Our rooms and flights are booked-now all we have to do is decide which indie (or other) patterns to try before we go.
Dates are Friday and Saturday, May 15-16. Check-in is Thursday night, a full day of panel discussions, etc. and a dinner on Friday and shopping on Saturday.
Grainline Studio, Jalie, Janet Pray of Islander Patterns and Angela Wolf will be on the panel.
We’d love to have company so email us if you are planning to go to.
Here are a few examples of how I use Pattern Review (patternreview.com).
I’m having a great time experimenting with making knit tee’s in a non-bias fashion using the bias Burda pattern 7509. I wondered if there’s a simple men’s tee pattern…not that I want to switch gears to make something for my husband at this time. So, I looked at Pattern Review during my coffee break from sewing.
I found this posting that has directions on how to make a design on freezer paper, iron it to the shirt, and spray paint. Now, how cool is that!
I noticed that this sewer has 85 reviews, so I took a look to see what other creative things she has:
Then, THIS Amy Butler bag took my eye because MOST Amy Butler bags are made with colorful quilting material. This had wording and looked different! Turns out, it’s made with rice bags, plus there’s an inside insulated pocket for refrigerated items when using for market purchases. (This is a very creative sewer!!)
Weeks ago, killing time looking at Accessories on Pattern Review, I came across this Obi Bag from Sewing Workshop. Turns out the pattern is OOP, but by reading the reviews, I think I can duplicate it. I found material and it’s in the hopper, waiting to be made.
This sewer has 60 reviews and here’s more inspiration to tack onto my “to do” sewing list:
As I’ve mentioned before, daily (usually!), I scan the Review Gallery (under Sewing Reviews on the home page, 1/2 way down the left side) for inspiration. Pattern Review has a variety of garments and you never know what will be posted.
I look at other websites/facebook, too, such as Tilton and Sagers, which are wonderful for ideas especially on different looks for one pattern; how to change things up to get the most out of one pattern. To me, this is extremely important because the pattern work of fitting is the most time consuming. Once something fits (darts in right place, shorten/lengthen lines adjusted, etc), then the fun can begin!
Material Girl Sewing 