Last of January Photos

I hope you are in the sunshine somewhere-it’s beautiful!! Speaking of beautiful-here are the remaining sew and tell pics. Another great month of sewing!

Lisette 6296
Simplicity 9291 Gertie pattern
Shucks, I didn’t write down the wrap sweater pattern! Can anyone help me out?
Sapporo Coat/now Nova Coat from Papercut Patterns
Vogue 1784
OOP coat pattern
Historically correct doll bodice
Daughter/mother duo in The Blouse by Avid Seamstress (daughter) and Estelle Ponte Jacket by Stylearc (mother)
Madden Skirt by Tessuti Patterns
Tremont Jacket/Vest by The Sewing Workshop X 2
Nancy’s Blouse by Silhouette Patterns in rayon batik
McCalls 7874 from two old sweatshirts!
Vogue 8854
Wool Coat-Logan Shacket by Stylearc
Copied ready-to-wear/still making modifications

Happy sewing for February!!

Garment Sewing Group December 2022

Merriest wishes and happy New Year to all of you wonderfully creative and fun people!! Here are the garments Debbie and I made in December along with commentary.

Classes are finished for the year and we will have a new calendar out at some point for 2023. Garment Sewing Group dates are at end of post.

Debbie’s Garments:

Kwik Sew 4191, View B without facing Double faced wool blend with cotton lawn edging

1. Shortened front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust.

2. After eliminating front facing, Hong Kong finishing seam allowances and lining the sleeves, inserting the sleeves with hand sewing it would have been easier to line the jacket!

3. I did not use any interfacing but I did add sleeve heads.

4. Due to not facing the jacket front I changed the order of construction and techniques.

5. The collar seam is stitched wst and the center back seam is stitched rst. Bias trim was added to hide collar seam.

6. Hong Kong seam finish is done with single layer and a folded bias strip was used for edge finishes.

7. The front edges were trimmed before stitching side seams and sleeves.

Love Notions Tabitha Top with Yoke and Long Sleeves. Rayon blend jersey knit and cotton lawn

1. Shortened back, front, and sleeves between shoulder and bust. Sleeve length shortened 2 inches.

2. This is a TNT pattern for me. I need to remember the sleeves get too narrow below elbow before I make it again.

Jalie Renee Pant #4018 (see photo above)

Ponte rayon blend

1. I shortened the length of the pants 1 and 1/2 inch above and below the knee. Next time I would only shorten length by 2 inches.

2. I used 1/4 inch seam allowances instead 3/8 seam allowances that pattern recommends- just to give me a little less negative ease.

3. This is my first make from this pattern and I will make it again. I like the fit, style and ease of construction, especially when it comes to the waistband.

Simplicity 0659/8377, Wool blend knit

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back, and sleeves. Also shortened the sleeve length 1 inch.

2. Did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. I used a jersey knit for facing to eliminate bulk.

4. Quick, easy, fun make.

Kristin’s Garments

Jalie 3248 Drop Pocket Cardigan, various knits

1. Made to pattern-size X. Fun to put together. Great for using larger scraps.

2. Recommend lightweight drapey fabric to keep pockets from getting too bulky.

Love Notions La Bella Donna, cotton knit
Jalie Dolman 3352, cotton knit

1. Both patterns have wide neck openings.

2. Jalie (size X) has a shorter sleeve and 3/4 length sleeve addition, La Bella Donna is longer and has a long hour glass shaped cuff. Recommend one size larger for cuff.

3. La Bella Donna (size Large) has one pattern piece, front same as back except for neck.

4. Added neckband from Tabor Vee Neck to “warm” up the tees.

True Bias Hudson Pant for Men, rayon knit

1. Ankle bands are bigger but narrower than women’s.

2. Same great fit as women’s pattern!

New Look 6735, rayon knit True Bias Hudson Pant for Women

1. Cut out smaller size (14) across shoulders for a closer fit. Also sized down for sleeve.

2. Added 6” to length.

3. Great New Look pattern with best construction practices. Neck band is straight, long band. Added cuffs. Bands overlap at center front which is what I was aiming for. Perfect for rayon knits and not a lot of extra fabric.

True Bias Hudson Pant for Women (photo above)

1. Omitted pockets. TNT pattern! Love the fit!!

Simplicity 9239, fleece with kimono remnants

1. Larger sleeve, different cuff, no placket, were some of the details that drew me to the pattern after seeing a few like it in magazines/websites.

2. Made size Medium, it’s an oversized fit.

3. Cut out another yoke and did burrito roll-just barely with the fleece. Used kimono fabrics as facings for fronts, collar, cuffs and pockets.

4. Omitted the back neck facing and trimmed back neck with bias.

January Garment Sewing Group Meetings

Saturday, January 7, Lakes Makerie (first Saturday of month-not second!)

Wednesday, January 11, Sewing Lounge

Thursday, January 12, First Sewing and Fabric Swap

Wednesday at Lakes Makerie

We’ll have our last installment of Garment Sewing Group for December and 2022 (!!) on Wednesday, December 14, 10:30 am. Hope you can join us and check out Lakes as it’s been a few months since we’ve been there.

On Thursday, December 15, we’ll be at First Sewing for Basic and Beyond Sergery, 10:15-12:15. It’s a one time class-any level you are at, we will help you thread, decorative stitches, cover stitch or just refresh your memory 🙂

Sew Social meets the same day and place (Thursday at First Sewing) from 1-4 pm. That will be the last of classes for 2022!

Here’s what we saw on Saturday at Treadle-

Great Copy Cascade Jacket
Resolution Bottoms from Love Notions
Toaster Sweater and then some-great trim acquired on travels abroad
Satisfying job of relining a handmade coat
A little Barbie sewing-did you know her body changed but the patterns didn’t!

Thursday’s Garments

Great turnout at First Sewing yesterday, 21 people! And a fair amount of fabric to swap 🙂

We’ll be at Treadle tomorrow, Saturday, Dec. 10, at 10:30 and then at Lakes Makerie on Wednesday, Dec. 14, 10:30. Lots of opportunities to get your sewjo on the go!!

Nothing says holidays like a great rayon velvet!
Liberty of London in Faith from StyleArc
FibreMood skirt in jacquard floral
Holiday sewing for teens
Holiday skirt with plenty of swirl

December Meetings-

The holiday train is moving through the station and next up is Garment Sewing Group!

Meetings-all beginning at 10:30 am: Thursday, December 8, at First Sewing and FABRIC SWAP Saturday, December 10, at Treadle Yard Goods Wednesday, December 14 at Lakes Makerie

Sew Social will meet December 8 and 15 from 1-4 pm at First Sewing.

Basic & Beyond Sergery will meet Thursday, December 15, 10:15-12:15. One session, any skill level. Use it to make up what you might have missed or forgotten or just get started with serging!! Class is at First Sewing.

Here are a few pics from the Quilted Jacket class back in November at Quilter’s Haven:

Happy Thanksgiving and More Photos

We are thankful for all of you allowing us to keep doing what we love! You inspire us every month-speaking of-next month’s meetings will be:

December meetings: Thursday, 12/8 at First Sewing, Saturday, 12/10 at Treadle Yard Goods, Wednesday, 12/14 at Lakes Makerie

Can’t wait!!! Hope you all enjoy your Turkey Day, however you celebrate!

Copied RTW, original on left
Upcycling-Garment bag from oversized men’s shirt
Butterick 6241
Silhouette 8019 Diane’s Wrap Dress
OOP KwikSew
Vogue 9244
Great kids’ Christmas gift McCalls 8250
Sewing Workshop Sterling Jacket
McCalls 7969
Chateau Jacket Sewing Workshop
KwikSew 2895
Butterick 6634
Stanway Tee, Cashmerette Ahead of the Curve book
Opal Coat & Cardigan, Paprika Patterns
And a little Merry Christmas!

November GSG Photos and Comments :)

Garment Sewing Group/November 2022

Debbie’s Garments:

Itch to Stitch Cerrito Alto Jacket/Cotton blend with ponte contrast

My Jacket of Mistakes and Disappointments! What Happened?

Chose the wrong size

Not enough fabric thus knit sleeves with woven main fabric and unlined sleeves – needed to adjust lining construction

Cut off too many zipper teeth and lost pull when testing and needed to rip out and insert again –

It is a tailored jacket and I wasn’t prepared for that

omitted zipper welt pockets

too much in a hurry and so much more!

I like this jacket pattern. The directions are very detailed and well illustrated. The method of attaching the lining without any hand sewing is terrific. I will give this a try again but not for a long time.

KwikSew 3555, Cotton and Burda 7062, Stretch cotton corduroy

1. This is TNT pattern for me but I am ready to try something new.

2. I like the contrast band even though it is black. The only thing I would do differently would be to sew the band to the center front right sides together so the black fabric would be exposed and not the ws of the print.

1. Another TNT pattern for me but again, ready to try something new.

True Bias Marlo Sweater, Sweater knit blend

1. So I tried something new and I didn’t do well.

2. I did shorten the length between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. I also lengthened the short version of the sweater by 2”.

3. I feel I should have used a more stable sweater knit.

4. I constructed the sweater with the serger and tried topstitching the bands using a walking foot but that did not work well – needed a more stable knit.

5. I gave up on buttonholes after trying Solvy and sticky back stabilizer to no avail.

6. The sweater is no longer a cardigan since I sewed the bands closed with buttons – it works.

Kristin’s Garments

Karine Sweater Jalie 4242, Various knits

1. Had to try one of the versions of the short cardigan. This one is a raglan-probably cut along the lines of their Romy pattern.

2. No hem band or back neck facing. Wrapped seams used very effectively.

3. Had fun using stash pieces.

Laundry Day Tee Love Notions, Rayon knit

1. Looking for a fuller-at-hem tee to layer under garments.

2. This is a size large-narrow across shoulders. Close fit through bust and back.

Mitchell Trousers Closet Core, Bottom weight herringbone
Well fitting back side without the welt pockets

1. A new pattern that I just had to try. Blakandblanca Instagram photo inspired me. Wide leg and tapered leg version. I made a size 16 in wide leg version.

2. Directions are great. Everything came together. The pleat is a bit different and I’d love to see someone else’s version of it.

3. Discovered the bar tack feature on my sewing machine.

4. Omitted welt pockets and side tabs.

5. Fit worked very well. Lots of trouser features (fly shield!)-unfortunately most of them are invisible to the general public 🙂 A slower sew but worth it in the end.

November 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, December 8, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, December 10, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, December 14, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

November Sewing

We’ll be at Ginny’s on Friday (11/11) at 1 pm, kind of a pop-up Garment Sewing Group :)) Ginny is also having a silk sale!

Then we’ll be a Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday at 10:30 am for our last November meeting. Hope you can make it!

And here’s some of what we saw on Wednesday-

Butterick 6633
Side Handle Gusset Tote from kzstevens
Simplicity 8830
Fitted Tee Shirt-Wardrobe by Me
Willow Shirt-Sewing Workshop
Simplicity 8844
Simplicity 8797
Picasso Top-Sewing Workshop
San Diego Jacket-Sewing Workshop
Swing Dress-Made It Patterns
Self drafted jacket

Last Month’s Garment Sewing Group

Looking a little bit like it was a slumber party, here are our October garments and notes.

We’ll be at the Sewing Lounge tomorrow (Wednesday), then First Sewing on Thursday and Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. See you!?

Debbie’s Garments:

Jalie Dolman Tops #3352, Silk knit

1. A TNT pattern for me. This pattern can be made up in a variety of knits that can be casual or dressy and takes about a yard of 54-60 inch fabric. It’s a win-win.

2. The original pattern has a longer shirt tail hem on back . I made the front and back even in length with a shirt tail hem.

3. Instead of a neckband I did a serged “bias” edge finish to eliminate bulk and give it a more dressy look.

Butterick 5963, Cotton waffle knit

1. I was excited to try this pattern because it seemed relaxed but a step up from an everyday bathrobe. I still feel that way but constructing it is a different story – it is very “putsy” to make and put on! The waffle knit sews as smooth as butter.

2. I made the robe knee length.

3. The front band is connected to a faced neck band that hugs the back neck.

4. The pattern sets in sleeves but I put them in using the flat method.

5. I added the ties for closing the band after the robe was finished so I could get correct placement due to my height-I am short .

Love Notions Tranquil Nightwear, Art Gallery cotton knit
Bottoms: Jalie Jeanne #4016, Art Gallery cotton knit

1. This pattern runs large – next time I will take that in consideration when choosing a size.

2. Instead of neckband I serged a contrast knit strip to neck edge and then folded contrast to wrong side and stitched in the ditch to secure trim.

3. I put a straight hem on the sleeves rather than adding trim at an angle.

Coral Dot PJ Bottoms

1. My go to pattern for a quick and easy make.

2. I made it to pattern but I did change up the waist band by doing an “Eileen Fischer type” waistband. I determine the waist measurement and sew the elastic as a circle. Then the rs of the elastic is serged to rs of pj waist. The elastic is turned to ws and stitched in the ditch at center front and back and side seams.

Kristin’s Garments

New Look 6581 robe-cotton velvet, pantsrayon knit

1. Shortened the waist (tie point) by 1.5” and when I shortened the neck facing accordingly, it was easier to just fold the center front in (and lessen the overlap at CF). This also took out some bulk in the overlap.

2. Cut out a size 16 and graded larger at hips and took 1/4” seams at sides and sleeve seams. Sleeves are narrow and have a high cap but went in nicely. And to be fair, that pattern photo suggests this is to be worn without something underneath.

3. Fabric was wonderful to work with-used triple zigzag to understitch neck edge. Interfaced the back neck facing but just used 3/8” fusible stabilizer for larger part of neck edge.

4. Omitted the hole in side seam and attaching ties so I can try different solutions as I plan to wear tied most of time and the stickiness of fabric will keep flaps in place (I think).

5. Made size 20 which is largest that New Look usually goes. With this stretch rayon, it was a good size. Pant seems wider than pattern photo. Turned down an extra 2” at waist mostly due to stretchiness and weight of fabric.

Butterick 6491 Katherine Tilton, fabric content unknown

1. I couldn’t help myself-this was the pattern I had in my head for this fabric. I have a wedding in Phoenix and didn’t want to blend in-ha!!

2. Because of the lantern shape there was no need to increase at hips! Pretty much made to pattern-sleeves are on the slender side but it is a tunic and not a jacket so that’s OK.

3. Collar was applied with the hot dog technique from my “At Any Angle” shirts last month. The collar is very high but turns over nicely.

4. Interesting selvage edge was used at hems and facing.

5. I have a dress waiting in the wings in case I lose my nerve or the temperature remains high.

Love Notions La Bella Donna, jersey knit

1. Last month’s Willow Tank from Grainline Studio was great to wear under my At Every Angle shirt so I thought rayon would make a great knit option under a top but I wanted a short sleeve without the bulk of seams.

2. Pattern calls for 1.25” neckband optional but more as a wrap. I wanted a bit more strength to hold the stretchy rayon in place so I treated it as a tee shirt neckband. I like the narrowness of it.

3. Took in under arm-I think mostly because of the rayon knit.

November 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 9, 10:30, Sewing Lounge

Thursday, November 10, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 12, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Photos from Wednesday Meeting

We’ll be at First Sewing on Thursday, August 11 at 10:30 for version 2 of GSG and Fabric Swap!

Here are photos from today at Treadle Yard Goods-

Assembly Line Wrap Jacket
Wren Blouse/Chalk and Notch and Remy/Sew House Seven
Ilford Jacket/Friday Pattern Co
New Look 6340
Plaza Pant/Sewing Workshop
OOP Men’s Shirts
Reserve Champion at Washington County Fair