**Update to this post-the class had to be postponed so will begin February 2 and end on March 2. There are 3 spots left if you’d like to make a quilted garment with us.
The coat that started it all-Grainline Studio Tamarack
Kim, of Lakes Makerie employ, is the reason for my current obsession with quilted garments. The corduroy and flannel with an inner stuffing of wool batting looked so warm and cozy-I had to try my own version.
This is the Irma Bodywarmer from FibreMood
Not even close, right? So I may be on a circuitous route but I’ll get there. Or maybe one of the people that takes our class will. But on the way I will have fun exploring the different textures and weights of fabrics and the warmth of quilted garments. Will you join us?
The class is offered at Treadle Yard Goods, January 19, February 2 and 16 from 10-12 pm. It’s stretched out because there are so many decisions to make (well, for me anyway) and wonderful opportunities for slow winter handsewing if you choose. You can register online at treadleyardgoods.com or call them at 651-698-9690.
The first class will be an overview of your many choices of patterns and fabrics along with techniques that will be used to construct your garment. No machines necessary for the first class but bring inspiration photos, fabrics and patterns for discussion and decision making.
Debbie’s Grainline TamarackA Chanel jacket is a quilted jacketOr maybe you have a quilt to cut up
Either way, it will be amazing to see the different results that everyone in the class get. Hope you can join us-only dreaming required for first class 🙂
Hope you all enjoy the Season! The creativity and inspiration you all bring to our meetings and classes keep us sewing and wanting more. We’ll be back in January-
More inspiration from December’s Garment Sewing Group-
Fabric swap at First SewingSo many choices-Beautiful wool gabardine coat and many lessons learnedMerry Christmas sewingMarcy Tilton tee and Jalie Renee pants
1. The most difficult aspect to this make is deciding which view to make.
2. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the length two inches.
3. Fun, easy, quick make-perfect for warming up on cold days.
Blouse with Ruffles and Bling
McCalls 6750, View C with adaptations (OOP)
Cotton with metallic stripes.
1.I Did standard petite adjustments and shortened one inch below waist.
2. This pattern is from from 2013 so I did make some design/construction changes.
3. To achieve the V neck I removed the collar portion of the blouse front and facing. I also reduced facing width and I did not use any interfacing in the garment.
4. I narrowed the cuff width and converted to a two piece cuff with the ws of fabric against my skin thinking that would be more comfortable but it wasn’t necessary because the metallic threads are very soft. I also used the ws of facing against my skin – not necessary.
5. I narrowed the sleeve cap 1/4” from front notch to 1/2” at shoulder to 1/4 at back notch.
6. I cut 2 1/2 “ strips for ruffle and gathered them using the serger set at 2 for differential feed and 4 for stitch length.
7. To construct the blouse I used the sewing machine, serger and french seams.
Burgundy Holiday Topper
Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio
Cotton/lycra cotton stretch velveteen
1. I have made this blazer before but this time I wanted to line it. The pattern is unlined so I needed to work that out – a little bit of a challenge.
2. I thought about making a two-piece sleeve as suggested in pattern reviews to remove drag lines from the sleeve but that didn’t work out for me.
3. The facing is interfaced with stretch going up and down, not around – another hint from pattern reviewers. It may have made a difference in facing drape but I think the lining took care of that.
4. I lengthened the sleeves by 2 inches.
5. I made piping and applied to the lining edge using a zipper foot. All other construction was done with a walking foot.
`Kristin’s Garments:
Winter Vanessas
Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants 3676
Tropical weight wool
Kristin’s Garments, continued
1. No ankle cuffs this time around. Wool is just right for indoor wear, I washed it and it fluffed up a bit.
2. Great basic, comfy pant.
Winter Hudson Joggers
Hudson Pant by True/Bias
Activewear knit
1. Summer joggers have pilled so time for another pair (they are go to pants!)
2. Love the pockets-everything about the pattern.
Winter Basic Dress
Jalie Nicole Shift Dress 3903
Ponte
1. This mock tee dress is the bomb. Throw a sweater over it or a jacket-many looks.
2. I went up a size in the sleeve as it’s a bit snug and lowered bust darts.
3. Mock turtle neck is to pattern.
Designer Jacket
Merchant & Mills Landgate
Moleskin/flannel back satin/outerwear print
1. I had dreams!! Wanted a jacket to layer over fleece, look cool 🙂 Love the fabrics.
2. Underlined the jacket so it would hang well which made for a few interesting changes but went fairly smoothly.
3. Chopped off the hood as I knew I didn’t want it-glad I did.
4. Pretty cool construction of the front neck/yoke pieces.
5. All lot of work, in the end but other than the monster neck-which may relax over time?? I’m pretty happy with it.
Designer Joggers (Snowpants) -see photo above
Sew House Seven Free Range Pants-tapered version
Pre-quilted and self quilted fabrics
1. Just got sucked in by designer snowpants but fun to construct and figure out.
2. Made the lining first to check out fit-wanted them a bit fluffier for outdoor activities.
3. Serged the pieces together with only batting behind fabric, worked out much better than I hoped.
4. Really great pattern/style choice as there weren’t many seams to match up.
5. Used activewear knit for waistband and ankle bands.
January 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, January 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, January 12, 10;30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, January 13, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
All three meetings inside one week this month! Sweet! Come once or come to all-you will surely see something that inspires you. As always, first time is free/pay once and come to as many December meetings as you like.
Fabric origin? Pattern? Come and find out… 🙂
Wednesday, December 8th at Treadle, 10:30
Thursday, December 9th at First Sewing, 10:30. We will continue our fabric swapping at this meeting. Someone (?!) is also moving houses this week and needs to share the stash…
November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!
December’s meetings are:
Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle
Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)
Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.
Hope to see you!!
Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing WorkshopAnd then there were two…Light and Shadows from Cutting Line DesignsA chic thriftstore upcycleAn oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!
Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-
Garment Sewing Group
November 2021
Debbie’s Garments:
Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress
McCalls 7470, View B
Fine wale corduroy
This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier. My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
I made the following construction changes: burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric. A fun make.
Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt
My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)
adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011,
Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.
Cotton/linen blend
While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try.
To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.
Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi
Simplicity 9374, View D
Light weight organic cotton fleece
Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated pockets and interfacing.
Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)
McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848
Cotton knit with very little stretch.
This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!
Kristin’s Garments:
Casual Chanel
Vogue 7975
Navy wool/multicolor wool
I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.
Uniform Pinafore??
The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills
Cotton corduroy
I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂
Floral/Spider Blouse
KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy
Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand
After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time.
No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.
Slippery Leggings
Clara Leggings by Jalie
Activewear knit
Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!
December 2021 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!
Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…
Debbie’s Garments:
Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt
Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt
1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.
2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.
3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .
This make was a little slow but well worth it.
Teal/Green Cardigan
New Look 6735, View A
Luxury Plush Rib Knit
1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.
2. This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.
3. I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.
Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.
Two Stash Buster Tees:
Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical Tee
McCalls 7247
Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit
1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.
Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top
Jalie Dolman Top 3352
French Terry
1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.
I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.
2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.
Kristin’s Garments:
Fall Trend: Sweater Vest
Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck
Sweater knit with fleece backing
1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!
2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.
3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.
4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!
Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse
Simplicity 9231
Rayon woven
1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.
2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.
3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.
4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.
Sweater Vest
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven
Bulky cotton sweater knit
1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck
2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.
3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.
3. Constructed per pattern.
4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.
One Thing Led to Another
Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan
Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above
1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.
2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!
Funnel Neck Dress
Burda 6080
Ponte stripe
1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.
2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.
3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.
November Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!
So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:
Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am
Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com
Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!
A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!
1. Did standard petite adjustments and lowered bust dart.
2. Inserted button placket rs facing to ws shirt, opposite of instructions. I feel it gives a clean finish on both ws and rs, easier to topstitch and no slip stitching.
3. Did split hem on sleeve but did not follow pattern instructions – see sample.
4. Serged clear elastic along back waist rather than making a casing as pattern directs.
Coral Asymmetrical Placket Blouse
Grainline Studio Augusta Shirt
Tencel and cotton twill
1. Made too many petite adjustments – my fault, not a good choice for me.
2. Good construction techniques.
3. I find their sizing difficult – too much of a gap between body measurements and finished measurements.
4. Chose not to turn up cuff on sleeve.
Plaid Tunic
Simplicity 9130
Linen
1.Did standard petite adjustments as well as narrow shoulder.
2. Sewed the rs of facing to ws of front. Again, clean finish in and out, easier to topstitch and gives the top some detail.
3. Did bias edge finish on armhole as pattern directs.
Rusty Dolman Tee
Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops
Cotton Modal
1. Did standard petite adjustments but feel I would shorten in length and maybe go down a size.
2. Pattern finishes all edges with fold over and topstitch. I added a neckband at neck edge and then did fold and topstitch on hems.
Kristin’s Garments
Summer Dress
Vogue 1698, View A
Seersucker
1. Constructed per instructions except didn’t interface the seersucker collar or placket. Collar would have been better with some interfacing.
2. Placket was straightforward-my topstitching of bottom of placket was not 🙂
3. Fit issues centered around bust/underarm/shoulder area. Should the horizontal seam be at bust point??? Took in side seams to underarm 3/4” and moved top of sleeve in 2” to alleviate sagging.
WearWithAll Skort
Jalie 2796 Multi-Sport Skort
Navy activewear knit
1. Lengthened 3” and chose the wider waistband.
2. Compression shorts are compressing! Recut 4 sizes up and was happy with less compression.
3. No elastic in waistband is really comfortable.
4. Next time I will make the short from a lighter fabric-whole skort is heavy.
5. Love the pockets and side detail.
Summer Jumpsuit
Kielo Jumpsuit by Named
Black cotton knit and floral novelty knit
1. Just had to try this jumpsuit after seeing it on Brenda. Perfect for relaxing after a hot summer day or, with this floral, going out on the town. Not too close fitting but not too baggy.
2. Sizing is according to bust as there’s ample space everywhere else 🙂 You want shoulder/bust area to fit.
3. Pattern directions are awesome with the neck/shoulder area all finished off with burrito roll techniques and under stitching. Facings need to be tacked down.
4. Fit was spot on for my chosen size-underarms and all-unless it starts growing as the day goes on.
5. Back closure was raised about 4” to cover straps.
Our last meeting of July’s Garment Sewing Group is this Wednesday, July 14th, 10:30 am at Lakes Makerie. This is our “On the Go” version-just for fun.
Until then, here is some inspiration from our Thursday and Saturday meetings-
A new generation of superheroes-thanks to Grandma!Rina just finished Fashion Design classes at Minneapolis College-she’ll be at Mpls. Fashion Week in September!Here’s the garment on her model-Fajita Skirt from LJ DesignsRoxy Blouse from StyleArcVintage patterns
Material Girl Sewing 