Jacket Class Wednesday and More

Metra Blazer/Love Notions

Not quite spring and hoping to NOT be winter we are sewing/serging jackets or cardigans starting Wednesday, March 2, 9 and 16 from 1-3 at Treadle Yard Goods. Please call or go online to sign up-3 spots left! We are recommending the Metra Blazer from Love Notions, New Look 6735 cardigan, Blackwood Cardigan from Helen’s Closet as just a few of our favorites. You can get your pattern printed easily and quickly at the Sewing Lounge. Email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com if you have questions.

Metra Blazer
New Look 6735

And then we have some more to show from February Garment Sewing Group-are you sewing something spring-ish for March??

Vogue 9133
Burda 7700
Paddington Top/Peppermint Mag-(buttons down back)
Butterick 6323
Romy/Jalie Patterns
Belvedere Waistcoat/Thread Theory
Simplicity 7277
McCalls 6796

Can’t wait to see what March meetings have in store…Wednesday, 3/9 at Lakes Makerie, Thursday, 3/10 at First Sewing, Saturday, 3/12 at Treadle!

February Garment Sewing Group

Here are the garments Debbie and I made for February. Inspiration from all of you will follow soon…

 Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Olympia Dress

Teal/Navy Fit and Flare Dress

Cotton Jersey

1. I Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust and shortened hem length by 1.5 inches.

2. I eliminated the pockets and tapered the sleeves one inch at hem.

3. The construction of the neckline is unique but also very easy and quick. Jalie has a top pattern with a similar neck line construction that creates a lined bodice. I think the two techniques could be interchanged especially if you have light weight fabric.

4. Very pleased with this dress I would like to make another but there are so many other patterns to try!

Jalie Nicole Dress

Teal/Gray Pocket Tunic/Dress

Viscose, rayon, spandex ponte

1. I wanted some “everyday “ easy, casual, polished and warm garments and a dress from   Artful Home became my inspiration.

2. I did my petite and shortening adjustments as usual.

3. Pocket – I determined the size of the two rectangles used for pockets and added seam allowances. Then I clean finished the sides of both pockets. I stitched the small pocket to the large pocket leaving top of pocket open. I used Wonder Under fusible to then attach the large pocket to dress. I also stitched around all sides of large pocket. It took a lot longer to think about what process to use than to actually sew the pockets to the dress.

4.  The inspiration dress does not have a mock neck or long sleeves but this is Minnesota and the Jalie dress pattern is very accommodating for our climate!

5.  Once pocket was attached I continued construction as pattern directs.

McCalls 8022

Brick Tunic/Dress with Contrast Trim

Viscose rayon, spandex Ponte

1. I always start with my fit adjustments-petiting and shortening length.

2. I did not care for the collar on the pattern so again I made a mock T neck. To give the dress a bit of contrast I cut the neck pattern piece in half and added seam allowance. The outside of the mock is Ponte and the inside is cotton jersey. The contrast is created by stitching the upper edge and then wrapping the jersey over the Ponte seam allowance.

3. The contrast on sleeve hem is created by stitching RS of contrast jersey to WS of sleeve.

4. The instructions suggest using fusible tape for the hem. I do not find that tip often in the big four pattern companies.

Kristin’s Garments:

Giselle from FibreMood

Last Quilted Jacket

Wool, linen, wool knit, wool batting

1. Although puffer jacket was my inspiration, my choice of fabrics certainly didn’t reflect it!

2. Cut to pattern and then shortened by two inches when finished.

3. Resorted to my old quilt habits and quilted the back piece from center out to minimize the fabric/layer movement.

4. Changed the collar to a knit band and am very happy I did-warm, not stiff.

5. The zipper placket and zipper guard went together very well although a bit thick at seam crossings. Made it look more ready to wear.

6. A fun journey but done quilting for the year 🙂

Tabor Vee View 4 Sew House Seven/Hudson Pant from True Bias

Pajama Set

1. Wanted to give the Tabor a try with sleeves. Very happy with them-snug fitting sleeves but loose body.

2. Vee neck fits closely around neck so not too cold for winter!

3. Hudson Pant is my go-to knit jogger pattern. Added another inch to length and omitted pockets.

New Classes in March:

Jackets, Cardigans, Coatigans-Wednesdays, March 2, 9, 16, 1-3 pm at Treadle Yard Goods

March 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, March 9, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, March 10, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, March 12, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

More From January/February Starts Wed.

Garment Sewing Group Meetings (all at 10:30):

Treadle Yard Goods, Wednesday, Feb. 9

First Sewing (and Fabric Swap), Thursday, Feb. 10

Treadle Yard Goods, Saturday, Feb. 12

And some of what you may have missed in January-

Garment Sewing Group

January 2022

Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Tessa Sheath-Light weight rayon ponte

Navy Sheath Dress with Leather Trim

1. Did several shortening petite adjustments as well as straightening side seam at hip area – too curvy for me.

2. I did not want the leather yoke against my skin so I basted the leather piece on top of dress front and treated it as one piece.

3. I used very light interfacing on front facings, under stitched the back facing and stitched in the ditch at shoulders to secure facing to dress.

4. Glue stick, quilt clips and a leather sewing machine needle made sewing the leather a breeze. A fun project!

Love Notions Metra Blazer-Heavy weight rayon ponte

Navy Blazer with Leather Faux Welt Pocket

1.I enjoyed making the Shawl Collar Metra Blazer last spring so I thought I would give the Lapel version a try. I also had some leather left over from the Tessa sheath which could add just a bit more style to a fun topper.  

2. I did not use any interfacing and because my machine did not like sewing on the ponte I used Steam a Seam for sleeves and jacket hems.

Sewing Workshop Charlie Bomber-Stretch woven with rib knit

Purple Print with Rib Jacket

1. Although I admire Linda Lee’s work and products I hesitate to use her patterns because so many are oversized – not my jam. However when I saw reviews for her bomber jacket I couldn’t resist. I did my standard petite adjustments and dove into constructing the jacket.

2. I did not interface facing – pattern does not suggest using it. I did stabilize zipper seam allowances – not part of pattern instructions.

3. Step #9 is a bit confusing because the dot on the pattern is not labeled. The sleeves are set in but I did flat construction. The back collar is supposed to be slip stitched but I machine stitched. I was surprised at the lack of the finishing construction details such as stitching in the ditch or topstitching.

Kristin’s Garments:

Black Leggings

Stitch Upon a Time Ursula Leggings/Black cotton/spandex jersey

1. Made a size XL to pattern with the gusset (still perfecting the stitching of gussets:) Made the Midrise version-very good fit with the stretch of my fabric. Skinny at ankles, crotch length great. Very much a legging pattern in this knit-no bags or wrinkles.

2. Pattern also includes yoga and maternity waistband and a sewn in skirt.

Tabor Vee from Sew House Seven/Annika Top from StyleArc-Paisley wool sweater knit, gray wool blend

Tabor Vest Plus

1. I wanted to make another Tabor but wanted something longer so I hacked the bottom section of the Annika Top in a contrasting wool.

2. I can’t say enough about the vee on the Tabor. First time worked perfectly.

3. Topstitched to keep seams flat.

Irma Bodywarmer from FibreMood #16-Variety of silk, cotton fabrics/wool batting

Quilted Vest

1. The pattern only gives directions for using prequilted fabric so I went to the Tamarack Jacket from Grainline Studio for more specifics.

2. FibreMood patterns must be traced and seam allowance added. Directions were clear.

3. Fabric sandwiches were quilted as cut-if I did it again I would cut everything bigger. I lost about a quarter of an inch, which isn’t bad.

4. All seams were hong kong finished.

5. The back neck seam was tall and pushed my head forward (muslin did not show this) so I opened the seam and added a triangle before finishing the outer edges.

6. Belt is to be quilted but because the fabric was already pleated, I omitted this.

7. I cut one inch off hem because one of the fabrics was short.

Fibremood #16-rayon knit

Clemence Top

1. The fun shoulders called to me and I answered 🙂

2. Shoulder cap is square, sewn together and triangle folded to shoulder edge.

3. Neck band was on the short side.

4. I eliminated the hem band and added for a longer tee.

5. Nicely drafted.

Quilted Jacket or Vest Class

**Update to this post-the class had to be postponed so will begin February 2 and end on March 2. There are 3 spots left if you’d like to make a quilted garment with us.

The coat that started it all-Grainline Studio Tamarack

Kim, of Lakes Makerie employ, is the reason for my current obsession with quilted garments. The corduroy and flannel with an inner stuffing of wool batting looked so warm and cozy-I had to try my own version.

This is the Irma Bodywarmer from FibreMood

Not even close, right? So I may be on a circuitous route but I’ll get there. Or maybe one of the people that takes our class will. But on the way I will have fun exploring the different textures and weights of fabrics and the warmth of quilted garments. Will you join us?

The class is offered at Treadle Yard Goods, January 19, February 2 and 16 from 10-12 pm. It’s stretched out because there are so many decisions to make (well, for me anyway) and wonderful opportunities for slow winter handsewing if you choose. You can register online at treadleyardgoods.com or call them at 651-698-9690.

The first class will be an overview of your many choices of patterns and fabrics along with techniques that will be used to construct your garment. No machines necessary for the first class but bring inspiration photos, fabrics and patterns for discussion and decision making.

Debbie’s Grainline Tamarack
A Chanel jacket is a quilted jacket
Or maybe you have a quilt to cut up

Either way, it will be amazing to see the different results that everyone in the class get. Hope you can join us-only dreaming required for first class 🙂

Happy Holidays!

Hope you all enjoy the Season! The creativity and inspiration you all bring to our meetings and classes keep us sewing and wanting more. We’ll be back in January-

More inspiration from December’s Garment Sewing Group-

Fabric swap at First Sewing
So many choices-
Beautiful wool gabardine coat and many lessons learned
Merry Christmas sewing
Marcy Tilton tee and Jalie Renee pants

December Garment Sewing Group

Our Friday full of snow put a damper on Saturday’s attendance but Rosemary did her best to be the audience 🙂

Simplicity 8556 in Treadle cotton

Garment Sewing Group

December 2021

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Stripe Tunic

Terra Tunic Funnel Neck by Love Notions

French terry

1. The most difficult aspect to this make is deciding which view to make.

2. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the length two inches.

3. Fun, easy, quick make-perfect for warming up on cold days.

Blouse with Ruffles and Bling

McCalls 6750, View C with adaptations (OOP)

Cotton with metallic stripes.

1.I Did standard petite adjustments and shortened one inch below waist.

2. This pattern is from from 2013 so I did make some design/construction changes.

3. To achieve the V neck I removed the collar portion of the blouse front and facing. I also reduced facing width and I did not use any interfacing in the garment.

4. I narrowed the cuff width and converted to a two piece cuff with the ws of fabric against my skin thinking that would be more comfortable but it wasn’t necessary because the metallic threads are very soft. I also used the ws of facing against my skin – not necessary.

5. I narrowed the sleeve cap 1/4” from front notch to 1/2” at shoulder to 1/4 at back notch.

6. I cut 2 1/2 “ strips for ruffle and gathered them using the serger set at 2 for differential feed and 4 for stitch length.

7. To construct the blouse I used the sewing machine, serger and french seams.

Burgundy Holiday Topper

Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio

Cotton/lycra cotton stretch velveteen

1. I have made this blazer before but this time I wanted to line it.  The pattern is unlined so I needed to work that out – a little bit of a challenge.

2. I thought about making a two-piece sleeve as suggested in pattern reviews to remove drag lines from the sleeve but that didn’t work out for me.

3. The facing is interfaced with stretch going up and down, not around – another hint from pattern reviewers. It may have made a difference in facing drape but I think the lining took care of that.

4. I lengthened the sleeves by 2 inches.

5. I made piping and applied to the lining edge using a zipper foot. All other construction was done with a walking foot.

`Kristin’s Garments:

Winter Vanessas

Jalie Vanessa Fluid Pants 3676

Tropical weight wool

Kristin’s Garments, continued

1. No ankle cuffs this time around. Wool is just right for indoor wear, I washed it and it fluffed up a bit.

2. Great basic, comfy pant.

Winter Hudson Joggers

Hudson Pant by True/Bias

Activewear knit

1. Summer joggers have pilled so time for another pair (they are go to pants!)

2. Love the pockets-everything about the pattern.

Winter Basic Dress

Jalie Nicole Shift Dress 3903

Ponte

1. This mock tee dress is the bomb. Throw a sweater over it or a jacket-many looks.

2. I went up a size in the sleeve as it’s a bit snug and lowered bust darts.

3. Mock turtle neck is to pattern.

Designer Jacket

Merchant & Mills Landgate

Moleskin/flannel back satin/outerwear print

1. I had dreams!! Wanted a jacket to layer over fleece, look cool 🙂 Love the fabrics.

2. Underlined the jacket so it would hang well which made for a few interesting changes but went fairly smoothly.

3. Chopped off the hood as I knew I didn’t want it-glad I did.

4. Pretty cool construction of the front neck/yoke pieces.

5. All lot of work, in the end but other than the monster neck-which may relax over time?? I’m pretty happy with it.

Designer Joggers (Snowpants) -see photo above

Sew House Seven Free Range Pants-tapered version

Pre-quilted and self quilted fabrics

1. Just got sucked in by designer snowpants but fun to construct and figure out.

2. Made the lining first to check out fit-wanted them a bit fluffier for outdoor activities.

3. Serged the pieces together with only batting behind fabric, worked out much better than I hoped.

4. Really great pattern/style choice as there weren’t many seams to match up.

5. Used activewear knit for waistband and ankle bands.

January 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, January 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, January 12, 10;30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, January 13, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Garment Sewing Group Week

All three meetings inside one week this month! Sweet! Come once or come to all-you will surely see something that inspires you. As always, first time is free/pay once and come to as many December meetings as you like.

Fabric origin? Pattern? Come and find out… 🙂

Wednesday, December 8th at Treadle, 10:30

Thursday, December 9th at First Sewing, 10:30. We will continue our fabric swapping at this meeting. Someone (?!) is also moving houses this week and needs to share the stash…

Saturday, December 11th at Treadle, 10:30

More November Inspiration

November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!

December’s meetings are:

Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle

Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)

Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.

Hope to see you!!

Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing Workshop
And then there were two…
Light and Shadows from Cutting Line Designs
A chic thriftstore upcycle
An oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!

November’s Garments

Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-

Garment Sewing Group

November 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress

McCalls 7470, View B

Fine wale corduroy

  1. This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier.  My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
  2. It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
  3. I made the following construction changes:  burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
  4. I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric.  A fun make.

Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt

My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)

adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011, 

Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.

Cotton/linen blend

  1. While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try. 
  2. To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
  3. I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.

Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi

Simplicity 9374, View D

Light weight organic cotton fleece

  1. Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
  2. I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated  pockets and interfacing. 

Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)

McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848

Cotton knit with very little stretch.

This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!

Kristin’s Garments:

Casual Chanel 

Vogue 7975

Navy wool/multicolor wool

  1. I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
  2. Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
  3. Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
  4. Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
  5. Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
  6. Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.

Uniform Pinafore?? 

The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills

Cotton corduroy

  1. I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
  2. Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
  3. Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
  4. Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂

Floral/Spider Blouse

KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy

Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand

  1. After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time. 
  2. No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.

Slippery Leggings

Clara Leggings by Jalie

Activewear knit

  1. Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
  2. Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!

December 2021 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

October Garment Sewing Group

First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!

Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…

Debbie’s Garments:

Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt

Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt

1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.

2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.

3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .

This make was a little slow but well worth it.

Teal/Green Cardigan

New Look 6735, View A

Luxury Plush Rib Knit

1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.

2.  This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.

3.  I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.

Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.

Two Stash Buster Tees:

Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical  Tee

McCalls 7247

Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit

1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.

Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top

Jalie Dolman Top 3352

French Terry

1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.

     I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.

2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.

Kristin’s Garments:

Fall Trend: Sweater Vest

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck

Sweater knit with fleece backing

1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!

2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.

3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.

4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!

Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse

Simplicity 9231

Rayon woven

1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.

2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.

3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.

4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.

Sweater Vest

Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven

Bulky cotton sweater knit

1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck

2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.

3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.

3. Constructed per pattern.

4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.

One Thing Led to Another

Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan

Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above

1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.

2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!

Funnel Neck Dress

Burda 6080

Ponte stripe

1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.

2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.

3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.

November Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul