Garment Sewing Group Week

All three meetings inside one week this month! Sweet! Come once or come to all-you will surely see something that inspires you. As always, first time is free/pay once and come to as many December meetings as you like.

Fabric origin? Pattern? Come and find out… 🙂

Wednesday, December 8th at Treadle, 10:30

Thursday, December 9th at First Sewing, 10:30. We will continue our fabric swapping at this meeting. Someone (?!) is also moving houses this week and needs to share the stash…

Saturday, December 11th at Treadle, 10:30

More November Inspiration

November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!

December’s meetings are:

Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle

Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)

Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.

Hope to see you!!

Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing Workshop
And then there were two…
Light and Shadows from Cutting Line Designs
A chic thriftstore upcycle
An oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!

November’s Garments

Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-

Garment Sewing Group

November 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress

McCalls 7470, View B

Fine wale corduroy

  1. This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier.  My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
  2. It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
  3. I made the following construction changes:  burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
  4. I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric.  A fun make.

Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt

My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)

adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011, 

Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.

Cotton/linen blend

  1. While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try. 
  2. To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
  3. I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.

Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi

Simplicity 9374, View D

Light weight organic cotton fleece

  1. Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
  2. I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated  pockets and interfacing. 

Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)

McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848

Cotton knit with very little stretch.

This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!

Kristin’s Garments:

Casual Chanel 

Vogue 7975

Navy wool/multicolor wool

  1. I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
  2. Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
  3. Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
  4. Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
  5. Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
  6. Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.

Uniform Pinafore?? 

The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills

Cotton corduroy

  1. I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
  2. Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
  3. Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
  4. Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂

Floral/Spider Blouse

KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy

Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand

  1. After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time. 
  2. No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.

Slippery Leggings

Clara Leggings by Jalie

Activewear knit

  1. Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
  2. Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!

December 2021 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

October Garment Sewing Group

First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!

Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…

Debbie’s Garments:

Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt

Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt

1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.

2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.

3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .

This make was a little slow but well worth it.

Teal/Green Cardigan

New Look 6735, View A

Luxury Plush Rib Knit

1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.

2.  This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.

3.  I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.

Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.

Two Stash Buster Tees:

Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical  Tee

McCalls 7247

Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit

1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.

Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top

Jalie Dolman Top 3352

French Terry

1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.

     I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.

2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.

Kristin’s Garments:

Fall Trend: Sweater Vest

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck

Sweater knit with fleece backing

1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!

2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.

3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.

4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!

Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse

Simplicity 9231

Rayon woven

1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.

2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.

3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.

4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.

Sweater Vest

Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven

Bulky cotton sweater knit

1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck

2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.

3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.

3. Constructed per pattern.

4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.

One Thing Led to Another

Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan

Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above

1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.

2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!

Funnel Neck Dress

Burda 6080

Ponte stripe

1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.

2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.

3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.

November Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

October Garment Sewing Group Starts Saturday

The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!

So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am

Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com

Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!

A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!

August Garments

Debbie’s Garments- Topping off summer!

Sea Glass Dotted Swiss Peplum Blouse

Simplicity 8384, View D

Cotton

1. Did standard petite adjustments and lowered bust dart.

2. Inserted button placket rs facing to ws shirt, opposite of instructions. I feel it gives a clean finish on both ws and rs, easier to topstitch and no slip stitching.

3. Did split hem on sleeve but did not follow pattern instructions – see sample.

4. Serged clear elastic along back waist rather than making a casing as pattern directs.

Coral Asymmetrical Placket Blouse

Grainline Studio Augusta Shirt

Tencel and cotton twill

1. Made too many petite adjustments – my fault, not a good choice for me.

2. Good construction techniques.

3. I find their sizing difficult – too much of a gap between body measurements and finished measurements.

4. Chose not to turn up cuff on sleeve.

Plaid Tunic

Simplicity 9130

Linen

1.Did standard petite adjustments as well as narrow shoulder.

2. Sewed the rs of facing to ws of front. Again, clean finish in and out, easier to topstitch and gives the top some detail.

3. Did bias edge finish on armhole as pattern directs.

Rusty Dolman Tee

Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops

Cotton Modal

1. Did standard petite adjustments but feel I would shorten in length and maybe go down a size. 

2. Pattern finishes all edges with fold over and topstitch. I added a neckband at neck edge and then did fold and topstitch on hems.

Kristin’s Garments

Summer Dress

Vogue 1698, View A

Seersucker

1. Constructed per instructions except didn’t interface the seersucker collar or placket. Collar would have been better with some interfacing.

2. Placket was straightforward-my topstitching of bottom of placket was not 🙂

3. Fit issues centered around bust/underarm/shoulder area. Should the horizontal seam be at bust point??? Took in side seams to underarm 3/4” and moved top of sleeve in 2” to alleviate sagging.

WearWithAll Skort

Jalie 2796 Multi-Sport Skort

Navy activewear knit

1. Lengthened 3” and chose the wider waistband.

2. Compression shorts are compressing! Recut 4 sizes up and was happy with less compression.

3. No elastic in waistband is really comfortable.

4. Next time I will make the short from a lighter fabric-whole skort is heavy.

5. Love the pockets and side detail.

Summer Jumpsuit

Kielo Jumpsuit by Named

Black cotton knit and floral novelty knit

1. Just had to try this jumpsuit after seeing it on Brenda. Perfect for relaxing after a hot summer day or, with this floral, going out on the town. Not too close fitting but not too baggy.

2. Sizing is according to bust as there’s ample space everywhere else 🙂 You want shoulder/bust area to fit.

3. Pattern directions are awesome with the neck/shoulder area all finished off with burrito roll techniques and under stitching. Facings need to be tacked down.

4. Fit was spot on for my chosen size-underarms and all-unless it starts growing as the day goes on.

5. Back closure was raised about 4” to cover straps.

Until Wednesday…

Our last meeting of July’s Garment Sewing Group is this Wednesday, July 14th, 10:30 am at Lakes Makerie. This is our “On the Go” version-just for fun.

Until then, here is some inspiration from our Thursday and Saturday meetings-

A new generation of superheroes-thanks to Grandma!
Rina just finished Fashion Design classes at Minneapolis College-she’ll be at Mpls. Fashion Week in September!
Here’s the garment on her model-
Fajita Skirt from LJ Designs
Roxy Blouse from StyleArc
Vintage patterns

Garment Sewing Group starts tomorrow!

Our mixed up month of meetings starts at First Sewing in Bloomington tomorrow, Thursday, July 8th at 10:30.

No need to register, just come. Maybe we’ll have lunch and then there’s Sew Social from 1-4 pm. Bring your project 🙂

On Saturday, July 10th, we’ll be at Treadle Yard Goods for the Saturday version. We had a class at the store today and Roberta was just opening a large bundle of fabric…

We’ll finish our monthly meetings at Lakes Makerie with “Garment Sewing Group on the Go” on Wednesday, July 14th, also at 10:30 am. No registration necessary but we plan to go to lunch at Heather’s after and will need numbers for reservations.

New Classes Start This Week

Fun and generosity!

Meeting new people is one thing you might not consider when you sign up for a class but Mary brought two aprons she make for Jennifer, who is a kindergarten teacher-just because we talked about it in class!

Make sure you meet some new people and learn some new sewing skills at our classes this summer! More information about each is found in menu bars at top of webpage-or call/text/email 🙂

July-August 2021 Classes

Classes at Treadle Yard Goods-register at treadleyardgoods.com

Pick a Pattern and Make It~we’ll help with any step in the process-choosing patterns to zippers and more. Wednesdays, July 7 and 21, 10-1 pm (also at Lakes Makerie Aug. 18 and 25)

PDF Patterns-Exploring, Ordering and Printing~choosing, ordering and printing. Wednesday, July 7, 2-3 pm (also at First Sewing Aug. 5)

Garment Sewing Group, Saturday, July 10th, 10:30 am We are changing to Wednesdays instead of Tuesdays-July 14 is kids’ camp at Treadle so we will try a Garment Sewing Group on the Go and meet at Lakes Makerie for our Wednesday meeting-this is NOT a permanent location change, just an exploration of resources 🙂 No need to register for this class-just come! First time free! (Also at First Sewing July 8)

Cover Stitch or Catch Up Sergery~tricks and techniques for coverstitch or serger (catch up only, please, not beginner). Wednesday, July 21, 2-3 pm (also at First Sewing Aug. 5)

Basic & Beyond Sergery In a Day!~Overcome the mystery 🙂 Wednesdays, August 4, 18, 25, 10-4 pm (also at Lakes Makerie Aug. 5, 19, 26)

Classes at Lakes Makerie-register at materialgirlsewing.com

Garment Sewing Group On the Go!~monthly meeting featuring garments, pattern modification and review, and the latest news in the sewing world. Wednesday, July 14, 10:30 am-no need to register-just come! First time free-(also at First Sewing July 8 or Treadle July 10)

Basic & Beyond Sergery~Overcome the mystery 🙂 Thursdays, August 5, 19, 26, 10-12 pm (Also offered at Treadle, Aug. 4)

Pick a Pattern and Make It~we’ll help with any step in the process-choosing patterns to zippers and more. Tuesdays, August 18 and 25, 9:30-12:30 pm (Also offered at Treadle July 7 and 21)

Classes at First Sewing-register at materialgirlsewing.com

Garment Sewing Group~monthly meeting featuring garments, pattern modification and review, and the latest news in the sewing world. Thursday, July 8, 10:30 am-no need to register-just come! First time free-(also at Treadle July 10 and Lakes Makerie July 14)

Sew Social~guided sewing and group fun! Thursdays, 1-4 pm, July 8, 15, 22, August 12, 19, 26

Coming Back to Sewing or Garment Sewing Need to Know~Garment sewing for the first time or getting back into it-we can help! Lecture only, no sewing. Thursdays, July 15 and 22, 10-12 pm

Cover Stitch or Catch Up Sergery~tricks and techniques for coverstitch or serger (catch up only, please, not beginner) Thursday, August 5, 1-2 pm (also at Treadle July 21)

PDF Patterns-All You Need to Know~choosing, ordering and printing-hands-on. Thursday, August 5, 2:30-3:30 pm (also at Treadle July 7)

July Garment Sewing Group Meetings

Not what it started out as-but definitely wearable!

OK, buckle up and hold on-we’re taking a wild ride this month! Debbie and I are having a hard time keeping it straight so we’ll tell you often so you can stay on track-

First, there will be no Zoom meeting this month. We’ll see if we can make something work that is a recorded or live version-fingers crossed.

Second, we’re meeting at First Sewing on Thursday-they have been so good to us and have plenty of space and it’s easy access from most of metro area.

Third, we are changing our Tuesday meeting day to Wednesday to keep our teaching days to two per week and back to back. Hope this day change works for all-

Fourth, Treadle was having kids’ camp on our 2nd Wednesday so we thought we’d try “Garment Sewing Group on the Go”. Lakes Makerie opens at noon so the store has room for us. Sarah has been in business for several years now, carries indie patterns, great fabric and is easy to get to. Join us for lunch afterward at Heather’s nearby.

In a nutshell-

Thursday, July 8th, 10:30 am IN PERSON

At First Sewing, 7985 Southtown Center, Bloomington

Saturday, July 10, 10:30 am IN PERSON

At Treadle Yard Goods, 1338 Grand Ave., St. Paul

Wednesday (yes-a permanent day change), July 14, 10:30 am IN PERSON

At Lakes Makerie, 5257 Chicago Av. South, Minneapolis (NE corner of 53rd and Chicago—easy on street parking, promise 🙂