Lots of you seem to be starting to sew again-hope springs eternal or you can only sew so many masks?
Either way we are inspired by you!!
Lots of you seem to be starting to sew again-hope springs eternal or you can only sew so many masks?
Either way we are inspired by you!!
Although we’d much rather like to see and be seen in person, the Zoom meetings have been a great substitute for getting together!
Denim Blue Rayon Challis Shirtdress: Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress, View B.
1. Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust but did not shorten length.
2. I prefer to do the collar before side seams for easier fit adjustments so I changed order of construction and did the hot dog method for a contrast yoke facing.
3. I did not add the chest pocket and wished I would have added side seams pockets.
4. The button band instructions are confusing so be sure to read info on pattern piece thoroughly.
5. I feel the pattern runs big – I would go down a size if I make it again.
6. This is a fun pattern and I am finding loose dresses are so much more cool and fun to wear with the weather we are experiencing lately!
Blue Flora Wrap Top: New Look 6560, View C, 85% Cotton and 15% Linen Blend.
1. As always did standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.
2. The top does look short so I considered adding length but after reading many reviews (2019 pattern of the year on Pattern Review) I did not adjust length – good decision!
3. For security I added a snap at the center front and made serger loops for the tie belt.
4. This is a quick and easy make and perfect for keeping cool this summer.
Wide Cropped Denim Pants: New Look 6643 plus Burda 7058, Tencel.
1. To get the fit I used Burda from waist to crotch and for the look I used New Look from crotch to hem. I shortened the length by 4 inches in segments along the leg of the pants.
2. The Burda pants are a TNT pattern for me so it was fun to try out the wide leg from New Look and have success – these pants are cool and fun!
Pineapple Tee-shirt Dress: New Look 6449, View A, Cotton Lycra
1. My first step was to make my petite adjustments from shoulder to bust. I did not change the length.
2. This tee -shirt dress is less fitted than McCalls 7432 – my make from June club- and that works for me. There are times when I want a little more shaping but lately I am enjoying loose fitting dresses. This pattern does the trick! It is a quick and easy make.
Knit Jumpsuit: Butterick 6330, View E, Liverpool knit
1. Easy summer sewing-neck and armhole hems are just turned under. Seam down center back with slit opening to allow getting the jumpsuit on 🙂
2. I like this style pocket at it lays better than an in-seam pocket (IMHO).
3. The legs are wide but not overly. I cut off 7” because the “shorter” length felt more summery. Hoping that the fabric relaxes a bit so the leg doesn’t stand open at hem so much.
4. Waist casing-1” seam allowance at waist, trim bodice seam and then press pant seam toward bodice and topstitch to form casing. This is a nice look, it worked very well. Would be easy to tack on a bow as shown in my inspiration pic.
5. Fit adjustments-I sized down one size in the pant and ended up going down one more because I didn’t want all the ease in pattern. Also, added an inch to bodice length and took off an inch in pant waist length (height/crotch depth 🙂
Woven Jumpsuit: New Look 6413, View A, Crinkle Linen
1. Fit-very good for overall length and waist location. Neck opening a bit large-I’d take a 1/4” seam next time for starters. Legs aren’t as tight as it shows on pattern cover-I liked how they turned out for me. Sleeves are to pattern for View A. Next time I will add a cuff to give a more stable hem that doesn’t stretch out-maybe washing will help?
2. Zipper opening at neck seemed to take some time but looked nice and was fairly easy in the end. A good sewing friend advised putting the zip in the neck and that probably was a better option.
3. Waist casing-pattern called for 5/8” seam allowance and then stitching seam allowance at edge and inserting elastic. We usually cringe at this when our young students encounter this in a pattern but the linen held together and I serged the raw edges together (not a bad idea to serge edges before sewing if they are raveling) and inserted elastic. I tried the topstitch method as above but in the end did not because it seemed to “blouse” better without it.
4. I didn’t include in-seam pockets because of added bulk and it also made the waist casing smoother.
5. Legs are fun rolled up at ankles too!
Wavy Stripe Shorts: Jalie Pull-on Pants and Shorts, No stretch woven
1. Great go-to pull on pant with just the right amount of ease-for me 🙂 Great waist shaping.
2. Made to pattern with required 3/8” seam allowances.
3. Waist casing is a facing that is sewn on and turned to inside. I especially like the shaping of the waist-not straight across but higher in back and lower (but not too low) in back.
Woven Stripe Shorts: Burda 6952, View B
1. This is a plus size pattern that I wanted to try to see if fit is any different than regular Burda patterns. Burda is still the bomb for pants fit, in my book.
2. The two views are the same except View A has darts, a zip and waistband. I was going to try adding the contour fitted waist band to the gathered version but there was a gap between idea/cutting out and execution-so it’s a narrower folded waistband as called for in View B.
August Fashion Sewing Club via Zoom or at:
Saturday, August 8,10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, August 11, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, August 13, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville
When Debbie sent her photos in her back yard I had to take my photos in my surroundings-down on the farm 🙂 Hope you’ve been finding your happy place wherever you are-we hope to have some live meetings next month. Will keep you posted!
Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
Floral Tee Shirt Dress: McCalls 7432, View E
Art Gallery cotton spandex
1. Did my standard petite adjustments and breezed through this quickly. Fun make that I will wear often.
Poppy Backyard Tunic/Dress: Closet Case Cielo, View C
1. Did my standard petite adjustments.
2. Changed order of construction to adjust fit if necessary.
3. Stabilized pocket seams.
4. Serged bias neck edge finish.
5. This is a fun make, I like the back shoulder yoke detail and of course the pockets.
Floral/Fleece Contrast Raglan Tee: Jalie Marie Claude
Floral from Tee dress and fleece from my stash.
1. I loved the combination of the two fabrics but didn’t have quite enough for the back.
I didn’t want to give-up so after looking at some RTW I was able to add some exit interest.
2. Using my scraps I cut apart the back pattern piece at my waist and cut two lower pieces to create faux button placket. I did add and stabilize seam allowances .
3. Placket edges are clean finished before stitching to upper back.
4. Tee is completed as pattern directs with the addition of buttons to the exit interest.
Purple Cut Apart Tee: McCalls 6964
Avalon Jersey, 94% cotton, 6% elastic.
1. Again, checking out RTW, I saw this tee and knew I had some fabric in my stash that would step up a basic tee and fabric.
2. Using my favorite tee shirt pattern as my base I cut apart the front pattern to form the design lines and added seam allowances.
3. Before constructing the tee, I added fusible interfacing to seam lines and clean finished placket edges. Three buttons were added for a little more interest.
Camber Set #2-Top: Merchant & Mills Camber Set
1. Executed changes from last month-added to bottom edge of back yoke for a rounded back adjustment. I tried to cut one yoke on the bias so the crooked lines wouldn’t but my cutting was way off and then I sewed the bias cut yoke to the wrong side and it didn’t work anyway!!
2. Still love the fit of it-sleeves and all.
3. I made the neck band correctly this time and like the looks of it.
Cool Summer Woven Tee: Scout Tee-Grainline Studios
1. Executed changes from last month-sleeves and armholes and had to grab this out of the closet as I ran out of summer things to wear. Love the cool draping of the fabric-cooler than a knit tee! And quick to sew-no bust dart!
Cool Summer Woven Tank: Willow Tee-Grainline Studios
1. Very good fit and nice coverage at neck and armholes.
2. Serged the bias edges on, turned to wrong side and topstitched instead of their method.
3. Nice deep hem.
One More Woven Tee: Coram Top & Dress, Allie Olson Patterns
1. Saw this at Puyallup and had to give it a try. Raglan sleeves with a dolphin hem-love that name.
2. Pattern sewed up well-like the hem.
3. Neck band is a bias strip and sewn on like a knit band-maybe a bit wide but laid down pretty nicely.
Lace Jacket: Now Shirt from Sewing Workshop
Novelty lace-colored on right side, white on wrong side
1. I may have overcooked this one! Very much attracted to the colors of the lace but the white backing is high contrast. And the seam allowances stretched out so most were bound with bias binding.
2. Cut 2” folded strips for front placket (pattern has simple, folded placket), hems and sleeves. I intended to use these folded but a white seam allowance still showed through so I encased some of them.
3. Swapped the “Now” collar out and used the “Zen” as it was shorter and stood up. Not sure how it will “wear”.
4. Turned in to a long sew. I have a fair amount left so will most likely underline next time but really wanted the airiness of the lace to be a feature of the jacket.
July Fashion Sewing Club Dates
Thursday, July 9, 10:30 at SR Harris – maybe!
Saturday, July 11, 10:30 , Treadle -maybe!
Tuesday, July 14, 10:30, Treadle – maybe!
Great meeting-thanks to all who attended!
Thursday and Saturday meetings are coming up tomorrow at 10:30. Go to “Fashion Sewing Club” on the website menu and register to receive the link to the Zoom meeting and the Club sheets.
Some info to pass on:
Craftsy/Bluprint is going out of business. Try this (allavsoft.com) for saving all of your classes before they go away.
SBCC (Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick) patterns are made for petites and more. Paulette made the Paloma Blouse right out of the package and it fit! They are sold on patternreview.com and you can choose the print option as it is a pdf only pattern. I found several I’d like to try because even though I am regular height, I often “petite” patterns to bring up the underarms and waist. I’ll have to lengthen the skirt 🙂 There are a few average height patterns also.
Treadle will honor its 10% off if you attend Fashion Sewing Club, good through June 20. Here’s a pic of their latest arrivals. There are also new rayon batiks.
SR Harris is offering to let us in at 9 am for Fashion Sewing Club next month so we can meet and shop and not keep other customers away-their current limit is 15 people. We’ll let you know if it can be done!
We’re meeting for Sew Social at First Sewing tomorrow! First time in a long time-looking forward to getting together. There will be a limit of 8 people. You can email/text/call if interested in coming.
Linda Lee of Sewing Workshop is hosting some great videos each Tuesday at 11 am but you can watch them anytime-check her website/Facebook/YouTube.
And now for the Sew and Tell-you can send your photos before the meeting and we can all see them on Zoom.
Another great month of meeting via Zoom! We had almost 60 people attending over the three sessions. We saw many indie patterns and always get the question about copy shop printing (the big box stores can be very expensive and knowledge varies from employee to employee) so here are are 3 best ways of getting those Pdf patterns printed on something other than 8.5”x11” sheets that you have to tape together:
1. Look for the pattern on patternreview.com. If they sell it, they will give you the option to choose having it printed for about $5 when you add it to your cart.
2. Go to pdfplotting.com and send your files to them. It takes a few minutes to figure out how to navigate in your computer and files but the price and convenience are worth it. And you can call and talk to Keith and he will help you out. Shipping time is usually a few days.
3. Thomas Printworks, 801 2nd Ave. N., Mpls.-you’ll have to go pick it up but turnaround is quick and price is great. The online form can be hard to figure out so just call 612-374-1120 and get the email address to send your files to.
And now for Debbie and Kristin’s garments for May-we hope we can actually see some of you in June as stores are opening up but we will definitely be meeting by Zoom. We’ll keep you posted.
Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
Navy Knit Blazer:
La Paz Jacket by Itch to Stitch
65% Rayon, 32%nylon and 5% spandex Ponte
1. I made a muslin first to determine fit changes and there were several- shortened between shoulder and bust, shortened jacket and sleeve length, adjusted for narrow shoulder and went down a size – I feel the pattern runs big.
2. This is PDF pattern which I try to avoid because I don’t like to trace and to determine lines and marks to follow is difficult.
3. The directions are excellent and a website is given to follow for welt pockets which is also very well done. The collar instructions are more difficult than necessary though.
4. The jacket has a back lining shield which is very nice. However, I wish I would have drafted a lining pattern. It would have been easier and given a cleaner inside look.
Floral Chambray Shirt Dress:
McCalls 7351, View B with straight hem
1. Did my standard fitting adjustments and lowered front bust dart, added 1/2” to waist length and 1 inch to hem.
2. I changed order of construction, did a burrito roll for yoke and stitched rs of button band to ws of dress front for a clean finish and no slip stitching.
3. I added a fabric tie belt to copy what I am seeing in RTW.
Coral Floral Tunic:
New Look 6439, View D with View C neckline
1. This is a TNT pattern. This is my summer version. Winter is the only season I haven’t covered and I don’t want to think about that for a lonnnnng time!
Cut Apart T-Shirt:
Green and navy solid rayon jersey, print cotton lycra from Art Gallery.
Saw this tee in a catalog and thought it would be cute and use up some of my scraps.
Palisade Pants by Papercut Patterns
1. Pattern has a nice flat front waist and fun pockets-one pattern piece is heart shaped.
2. Lots of layers in pocket hide hip issues.
3. For my figure, the front waist was high but not a deal breaker.
4. Good instructions, fun to see how a stripe worked out with the pocket pieces.
Hudson Pant by True/Bias
Rayon ponte, very soft and stretchy
1. Omitted the pockets for the sake of bulk.
2. Pattern advises making a size up if you don’t want a tight fit so I did that.
3. Made waist band smaller by 2” to reduce bulk.
SUMMER (?!) Dress
Camber Set by Merchant & Mills
Patchwork plaid cotton
1. Pattern features a bust dart that borders on a French dart.
2. Needed to do a bit of work on sleeves as they were quite slim but the armhole was on the larger size.
3. Also made the Scout Tee by Grainline and that had a flat sleeve with a close fitting armhole-so I went with Camber to get the yoke (made a rounded back adjustment easier) and used armhole from Scout.
4. Added back shaping darts.
June Fashion Sewing Club
Tuesday, June 9, 10:30, Treadle
Thursday, June 12, SR Harris, Burnsville
Saturday, June 14, Treadle
It’s been fun seeing new faces along with our regulars! And the new folks are jumping right in with garments they’ve sewn. Here are the highlights-
We had a great turn out with 26 people hopping on to our Zoom meeting-froze my iPad but the show went on!
Here are photos from sew and tell. It’s never too late to send photos-I will keep adding them to this blogpost.
Next meeting is tomorrow-Thursday-at 10:30. Anyone wishing to attend can email me for Club sheets in advance so you can print them out if you want.
The meeting link can be accessed here in the Calendar or email me and I can send it to you.
Thanks for staying connected with us!
We started with ten attendees at our Tuesday Zoom meeting, ten on Thursday and then 18 on Saturday! We had new people, regular attenders and one unidentified iPHone 🙂 It was a great way for people to check us out. Everybody mentioned how nice it was to see familiar faces and talk sewing.
First, we’ll catch up on some show and tell and then you’ll see the Club sheets and photos of our garments. Looks like we may be meeting this way again in May so work on your skillz with Zoom and join us in May!
And now Debbie and Kristin garments/Club sheets-
Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
Navy Vintage Shirt Dress:
Sew Over It Vintage Shirt Dress, View 1
1. Not sure I was into the vintage look so I made a muslin and did all my shortening adjustments between shoulder and waist and hip and hems. I also added 1 inch to waist length but removed that inch after the try on. The upper body fit seemed a little boxy. I feel it runs big so consider going down a size for bodice.
2. The pattern is easy and goes together quickly, especially if you adjust order of construction.
3. I made a fabric belt and used covered buttons.
4. I like the dress but will not make it again. I’m sticking to today’s current patterns.
Home Dec Jean Jacket:
Butterick 5616, View B
Ink Bolt Ebony, 71%cotton, 12%nylon, 11% rayon
1. I have made this pattern before and was set to sew without any change to pattern.
2. I did change construction order and constructed collar before side seams.
3. The fabric is quite heavy so I limited the amount of interfacing – i.e. only interface half of cuff and band. I used a rayon lining for under collar.
4. I used all purpose thread and a size 16 needle for topstitching. My first choice would have been to use topstitch thread but none in my stash. Also as you can see I have buttonholes without buttons. The pattern calls for 3 buttonholes on cuff but I did two. I need ten 3/4” buttons for entire jacket and again none in my stash.
5. I added trim to back neck line collar. This pattern is a TNT but I do prefer the Janet Pray Islander System and her Jean Jacket pattern, especially for construction techniques.
Grey Stripe Ballet/Boatneck Tee:
Sew Over It Edie tee from Work to Weekend ebook
1. This is a new pattern for me and I like the fit and neckline. I did do a lot of shortening and stabilized the neckline. Other than that it went together quickly and is quite easy.
New Garments sewn with favorite TNT patterns used for the following outfits:
Grey Denim Jeans – Eleonore by Jalie, 78%cotton, 21% poly and 1% elastic
Panel Tee – Vogue 9065, View A, Rayon Jersey
Coral Blazer -Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio, Cotton Stretch
Rusty Tee with Bow at Neckline – McCalls 6964, rayon Jersey
Plaid floral Pants- Vogue 1630, Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina, rayon, nylon and spandex
Fit for Art Tabula Rasa Base Pattern
1. Purchased the pattern and tried on their muslins for a first fitting. Wish I would have taken more time and a few pictures!
2. Pattern is based on a kimono with a square underarm and princess seams.
3. Pattern has horizontal fitting lines that work well to divide pieces for piecing your leftovers 🙂
4. Bust dart quite low (where are my photos from the try-on?) but it fits nicely with the underarm seam.
5. Looks like I need a rounded shoulder or sway back adjustment (centerback rides up and stands out) but I added a center back seam and topstitched it so hoped that it might go away with omitting the center back seam.
Peach Wool Jacket
Fit for Art Tabula Rasa with Shirt Variations
Very soft wool in gabardine (?) weave
1. This was my attraction to the pattern-she has done all the variations for you. First bit of advice-pin the variation right on to the pattern so you don’t accidentally cut out the base piece! So the front of the jacket is on the cross grain because that is exactly what I did.
2. I added 5” to the pattern to get a longer shirt jacket.
3. Moved the dart but opted not to mess with the center back.
4. Should have messed with the center back!
5. Stand up collar doesn’t stand up much so Debbie’s (Treadle’s) beautiful floral wool doesn’t show as much as I’d hoped.
6. Bust dart placement is better but I may change it to look like a typical Burda princess dart-short and in the right place with no relationship to the underarm seam.
7. Stay tuned for further variations.
Fit for Art Tabula Rasa Knits Tee
1. Made the pattern using same size as jacket. Happy that the drafting skinnied up the sleeve and overall worked well as a tee.
2. Neck shaping is a bit close at sides of neck but that is easily changed.
3. Threads featured a blue faux wrap dress (painted garment was the focus) that uses this pattern with the Clever Crossings variation.
Addendum-there were some drag lines coming from the center back neck on both of the Tabula Rasa jackets which would indicate a rounded shoulder adjustment so I gave it a try one more time in a woven quilt weight cotton.
May 2020 Fashion Sewing Club
Saturday, May 7, 10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, May 12, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, May 14, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville
In an attempt to establish some normalcy, we hosted Tuesday’s meeting of Fashion Sewing Club on Zoom. We’ve been meeting as Sew Social the past two Thursdays to try it out-and see familiar faces.
You, too can be a part of these meetings by going to our website and clicking the link on the calendar. Zoom can be accessed on your computer or you can download the app for your phone or iPad. Send an email to email@example.com and we will send a copy of the Club sheets so you can follow along.
You can also send photos of your garments to show or show them from your device during the meeting. There is no charge to attend.
Tuesday’s meeting was a big success-so good to see people! Katie Knoblach showed up with her Christine Jonson Easy Coat! We did miss having lunch together afterwards 😦
Here are show and tell pics. Kristin and Debbie’s garments along with the Club sheets will be posted after the Saturday meeting.
Be bold! Try something new-or come and lend your expertise-and show up on Thursday or Saturday! See and be seen!!
Thanks for the great photos, all! Find your happy place-SEW ON!
Highlights from the Saturday and Thursday meetings in November in the spirit of the season-
I’m sure we’ll see more this week at Fashion Sewing Club. What are you sewing??
We’ll be at SR Harris on Thursday 10:30 am and Thursday evening at First Sewing at 6:30 pm.