We started with ten attendees at our Tuesday Zoom meeting, ten on Thursday and then 18 on Saturday! We had new people, regular attenders and one unidentified iPHone 🙂 It was a great way for people to check us out. Everybody mentioned how nice it was to see familiar faces and talk sewing.
First, we’ll catch up on some show and tell and then you’ll see the Club sheets and photos of our garments. Looks like we may be meeting this way again in May so work on your skillz with Zoom and join us in May!
And now Debbie and Kristin garments/Club sheets-
Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
April 2020
Debbie’s Garments:
Navy Vintage Shirt Dress:
Sew Over It Vintage Shirt Dress, View 1
Rayon Challis
1. Not sure I was into the vintage look so I made a muslin and did all my shortening adjustments between shoulder and waist and hip and hems. I also added 1 inch to waist length but removed that inch after the try on. The upper body fit seemed a little boxy. I feel it runs big so consider going down a size for bodice.
2. The pattern is easy and goes together quickly, especially if you adjust order of construction.
3. I made a fabric belt and used covered buttons.
4. I like the dress but will not make it again. I’m sticking to today’s current patterns.
Home Dec Jean Jacket:
Butterick 5616, View B
Ink Bolt Ebony, 71%cotton, 12%nylon, 11% rayon
1. I have made this pattern before and was set to sew without any change to pattern.
2. I did change construction order and constructed collar before side seams.
3. The fabric is quite heavy so I limited the amount of interfacing – i.e. only interface half of cuff and band. I used a rayon lining for under collar.
4. I used all purpose thread and a size 16 needle for topstitching. My first choice would have been to use topstitch thread but none in my stash. Also as you can see I have buttonholes without buttons. The pattern calls for 3 buttonholes on cuff but I did two. I need ten 3/4” buttons for entire jacket and again none in my stash.
5. I added trim to back neck line collar. This pattern is a TNT but I do prefer the Janet Pray Islander System and her Jean Jacket pattern, especially for construction techniques.
Grey Stripe Ballet/Boatneck Tee:
Sew Over It Edie tee from Work to Weekend ebook
Cotton Jersey
1. This is a new pattern for me and I like the fit and neckline. I did do a lot of shortening and stabilized the neckline. Other than that it went together quickly and is quite easy.
New Garments sewn with favorite TNT patterns used for the following outfits:
Grey Denim Jeans – Eleonore by Jalie, 78%cotton, 21% poly and 1% elastic
Panel Tee – Vogue 9065, View A, Rayon Jersey
Coral Blazer -Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio, Cotton Stretch
Rusty Tee with Bow at Neckline – McCalls 6964, rayon Jersey
Plaid floral Pants- Vogue 1630, Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina, rayon, nylon and spandex
Kristin’s Garments
Denim Jacket
Fit for Art Tabula Rasa Base Pattern
Assorted denims
1. Purchased the pattern and tried on their muslins for a first fitting. Wish I would have taken more time and a few pictures!
2. Pattern is based on a kimono with a square underarm and princess seams.
3. Pattern has horizontal fitting lines that work well to divide pieces for piecing your leftovers 🙂
4. Bust dart quite low (where are my photos from the try-on?) but it fits nicely with the underarm seam.
5. Looks like I need a rounded shoulder or sway back adjustment (centerback rides up and stands out) but I added a center back seam and topstitched it so hoped that it might go away with omitting the center back seam.
Peach Wool Jacket
Fit for Art Tabula Rasa with Shirt Variations
Very soft wool in gabardine (?) weave
1. This was my attraction to the pattern-she has done all the variations for you. First bit of advice-pin the variation right on to the pattern so you don’t accidentally cut out the base piece! So the front of the jacket is on the cross grain because that is exactly what I did.
2. I added 5” to the pattern to get a longer shirt jacket.
3. Moved the dart but opted not to mess with the center back.
4. Should have messed with the center back!
5. Stand up collar doesn’t stand up much so Debbie’s (Treadle’s) beautiful floral wool doesn’t show as much as I’d hoped.
6. Bust dart placement is better but I may change it to look like a typical Burda princess dart-short and in the right place with no relationship to the underarm seam.
7. Stay tuned for further variations.
Spring Tee
Fit for Art Tabula Rasa Knits Tee
Cotton knit
1. Made the pattern using same size as jacket. Happy that the drafting skinnied up the sleeve and overall worked well as a tee.
2. Neck shaping is a bit close at sides of neck but that is easily changed.
3. Threads featured a blue faux wrap dress (painted garment was the focus) that uses this pattern with the Clever Crossings variation.
Addendum-there were some drag lines coming from the center back neck on both of the Tabula Rasa jackets which would indicate a rounded shoulder adjustment so I gave it a try one more time in a woven quilt weight cotton.
Note to self: make a wearable muslin in plaid so you can see lines!
May 2020 Fashion Sewing Club
Saturday, May 7, 10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, May 12, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, May 14, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville
Material Girl Sewing 
Kristin, it appears that you have 2 inches of vertical difference between the yoke seamline and the horizontal line – amazing! Nice job adjusting the pattern to accomodate this!
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When seen in person it is closer to 1.25”. I made a 1” adjustment and that seems to have taken care of it. Just wish I knew why some jackets fit that way and others don’t, even without neck darts-or maybe I haven’t been paying attention to those drag lines 🙂
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