August Club Photos

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club

August 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

New Look 6449, View C

Summer Floral Shirtdress:

New Look 6449, View C, Stretch Cotton.

1. This garment is similar to the shirtdress I made in June (McCalls 7351) but less shaping due to no waist definition. Also it was a better choice for the stretch cotton fabric.

2. I shortened length between shoulder and bust but not dress length.

3. I omitted the chest pocket – not a fan.

4. I made several construction changes: -added a contrast yoke facing using the hot dog roll method – a little tricky due to dress length – just go slow when turning to right side.

-Used Grainline neck stand and collar method rather than New Look’s method.

– Omitted cuff and tab on sleeve and made short sleeve length with roll up cuff.

– Used straight hem rather then curved as pattern shows.

5. Although I like the pockets, I am not a fan of floating pockets. I may topstitch them in place.

New Look 6449

Two More Backyard Tee-Shirt Dresses and New Look 6449:

Border print, Viscose Rayon, View C.

1. Cut cross grain to take advantage of border.

2. Scooped out front neckline- maybe too much!

3. Omitted cuff on sleeve.

Green Sleeveless, Cotton Jersey with 5% Spandex.

1. Cut cross grain for vertical stripe look.

2. Used chest pocket for hip pockets, the others were too large.

3. Not a fan of pattern armhole bands – would do differently next time……

There will not be a next time! This pattern has run its course for the season and I have used up my summer fabric so I am ready to move on.

Simplicity 1560

Rusty Floral Skirt:

Simplicity 1560, View B, Rayon Challis

I made this skirt to pattern. It is quick and easy . I like the flirty panels and no waistband with facing finish.

Kristin’s Garments:

Vogue 1701

Summer Woven Cowl Blouse

Vogue 1701, View B, Cotton Lawn

1. Cowl has an invisible zip which went in very well.

2. Gathering at neck.

3. Cuff is supposed to button with a notched gap hem on sleeve but I shortened the cuff instead and applied in the round. Ended up pleating cuff and sewing on buttons to make cuff smaller.

4. Blouse is wide at hem so no alterations for hips 🙂

5. After being so proud of my zip application, it is awkward to wear and the cowl will fit over my head without needing a zip!

6. I like the blouse-a little style and cool to wear-just won’t put in a zipper again!

McCalls 8042

Ruffles Everywhere!

McCall’s 8042, View A, Rayon Challis

1. The photo on the cover appealed to me so I gave it a try 🙂

2. Front is cut single layer with lots of stitching lines and cutting lines to transfer. I folded on center and got pretty close.

3. Sleeve ruffle ends up as part of armhole and doesn’t meet at underarm so a small piece of bias tape is added but it finished nicely, just puttsy.

4. I needed more room at hips so whacked it off, added more and ruffled it. A very gathered month 🙂

5. Both the sleeves and front/back are squares at the neck-no shaping in toward neck so when you pull in gathers at neck, there’s a lot of fabric. The height of the underarm is also determined by how much you pull up the neck. There were no suggestions as to how much it should be pulled in. I have used a stretchy cord so I can tie it where I want it and still get it over my head and not adjust every time.

6. The blouse is a keeper-the pattern is not 🙂

Merchant & Mills Factory Dress

Linen Work Dress

Merchant & Mills Factory Dress, Crinkly Linen

1. Skirt front has two small pleats and is wider than skirt back so added a bit to the back in the form of two small pleats.

2. Nice fit, loose fitting but with a bust dart. Sleeves fold up as per pattern. No fit adjustments.

3. Added contrast pocket and facing for fun.

4. Pattern drafting was great. Pattern directions more for a sewist with experience but definitely a keeper!

September Fashion Sewing Club-Zoom or at:

*Second Tuesday date is changed due to labor Day weekend

Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Treadle

Tuesday, September 12, 10:30 at Treadle

Thursday, September 15, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

August Club is underway!

Tomorrow (Tuesday) is our second meeting and then we’ll also have Thursday morning at 10:30. We are meeting by Zoom again this month-you can register on the website by clicking on Fashion Sewing Club.

And here’s the Saturday sew and tell-

The ever popular Carolyn Pajamas!
Olive Blouse by Megan Nielsen
Simplicity 8798
Sports bra from Greenstyle Creations

Hope you’ll join us Tuesday or Thursday!!

June Fashion Sewing Club starts tomorrow!

Covid isn’t going to let us gather this month either!! But we’ve been having fun via Zoom so we’ll meet on Zoom again this month-

Tuesday, June 9,

Thursday, June 11

Saturday, June 13

All meetings begin at 10:30 am

This month we are asking that you register and pay ($10) through our website. Then a Zoom meeting link will be sent to you along with the Club sheets. Just a debit or credit card is all you need. Here is the link or you can click on “Fashion Sewing Club” in the menu at the top of the website.

You may attend as many sessions of the month’s meetings as you want and still just pay for one meeting. Your first meeting is free.

Sewing up a storm!?!?

Thursday’s Club Inspiration

Another fun Zoom meeting with new faces and familiar faces-so much fun to connect and see what everyone’s been doing!

Last chance to join in is Saturday at 10:30-email me (materialgirlsewing@gmail.com) for link or go to calendar on website and click on link under Fashion Sewing Club event.

A new face for us in her cotton Vogue dress-side zip and sleeve length added.
Cashmerette Tobin Sweater
Vogue 7954 men’s shirt in handkerchief linen
Sleeve detail
Jalie Nursing Tee and McCalls 6996 Cardigan
McCalls 6964

May Fashion Sewing Club Dates

It’s that time again! Circumstances warranted a change in dates (just the Saturday one) so we’ll be meeting via Zoom on Tuesday, May 12, Thursday, May 14 and Saturday, May 16, all at 10:30 am.

Go to our calendar page for the links to the Zoom meeting. When it’s time for the meeting, just click on the link and you will go into a waiting room and be let in. It worked very well last month with 38 total attendees. If you’d like, send me an email or text and I can send a separate link directly to you.

You can wear your garment for show and tell or email me a pic and I will have it ready to put up during the meeting.

Happy Mother’s Day!!

Flowers or FABRIC!!

March Fashion Sewing Club

March Fashion Sewing Club

Kristin’s Garments

Assembly Line Cuff Top

Bubble Top

Assembly Line Cuff Top

Crinkly cotton

  1. Seam allowances vary from 1 cm-.5 cm marked on the pattern paper. I chose to serge seams and not topstitch so as to keep the bubbliness of the fabric.
  2. Neck is supposed to be a facing but added a bias binding instead.
  3. Sleeve elastic is 1.5” instead of the 2” called for in pattern. They also want you to serge elastic to raw edge, turn and topstitch. I made a casing.
Vogue 1665

Asymmetrical Top

Vogue 1665

Textured knit

  1. Fun to assemble and wear! Hip opening is wide enough for top to drape more than hug.
  2. All openings are hemmed seam allowances.
Burda 6498

Diagonal Hem Maxi

Burda 6498

Rayon woven

  1. Dress calls for underdress/lining that would mean 3 layers for the front. Instead I only lined the back.
  2. This made assembly more of a puzzle but it worked! No zipper needed.
  3. Armholes had to be bias bound because of assembly order.
McCalls 7561

Tee Shirt Dress

McCalls 7561

Rayon knit

  1. Shortened bodice 1.5” to keep it at MY natural waistline.
  2. Pattern calls for neckline to be hemmed-trimmed CF 5/8” and added band.
  3. Added bands to sleeve.
  4. Bodice seemed quite close fitting in photo so underarm/sleeve seam is 3/8” rather than 5/8”.
McCalls 7953

Debbie’s Garments

Faux Wrap Dress:  McCalls 7953, View A, Digital Kahio Indigo, 100% Rayon

1. Shortened  length between shoulder and bust which wasn’t difficult but also shortened dress length a total of 5 inches and it was difficult due to all the angles.

2. The pattern was annoying for the following reasons: difficult to determine which pattern pieces needed for each view, notches did not match up and the sewing techniques were awkward, especially for the faux wrap on right front. Ties sewed into seams would aid in fit.

3. The jumpsuit is appealing and I should have given it a try.

4. I do like the fabric but I think my choice does not have enough body for the wrap to stand out.

Vogue 1541

Navy Check Shirt/Tunic:  Vogue 1541, Today’s Fit Sandra Betzina , View A and B combined.

Double Gauze, 100% Cotton.

1. Went down one size in bust area, shortened length between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.  Shortened placket length.

2. Interfacing , pockets and bottom band were omitted.

3. The fitting and construction techniques are excellent, especially the center front placket. However the collar is a bit of a challenge.

4. One other great feature of her pattern construction is the recommended use of modern techniques such as the serger and Steam a Seam.

Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse

Sage Green Bow Blouse: Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse, 1502, View A, Brushed Stretch silk.

1. Shortened length between shoulder and bust as well as 2 inches hem length.

2. Straightened side seams slightly between waist and hip.

3. Added a hidden button placket – check out Susan Khalje in Threads #168, Aug/Sept 2013 for a great resource and  a few good You Tube videos.

4. I have been wanting to make this up for awhile to go with a wool blazer in my closet. I used a silk because I could not find a knit in this color. I am still looking for that knit!

April 2020 Fashion Sewing Club Dates

* Please note the changes made due to holiday

Thursday, April 9, 10:30, SR Harris, Burnsville

Tuesday, April 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Saturday, April 18, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

February Club Photos

Fashion Sewing Club February 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

New Look 6469

Navy Swing Dress/Tunic

New Look 6469, View C

Rayon Ponte blend

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. Did not shorten overall length.

2. Omitted zipper and changed order of construction-sleeves to front and back then side seams.

3. Easy, quick, fun and I like the fit.

Purple Color Block Dress/Tunic

New Look 6439

New Look 6439, View D with Scoop Neck

Rayon Ponte blend

1. Front and back are on fold – to achieve blocking, I added seam allowance to front and back at fold. Left front, back and sleeve are opposite colors from the right front, back and sleeve.

2. The neckband was omitted and the neck edge is turned under and cover stitched.

3. I have made this pattern at least 3 times and it is a winner.

New Look 6394

Deep Coral Botanical Print Blouse

New Look 6394, View C

Liberty of London 100% Cotton

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back yoke and sleeve and also one inch between waist and hip on front an back. 

2. Pattern had sew on front facings – I changed to fold over to eliminate bulk. The yoke is single layer so I added yoke lining with burrito technique. This got me into a little trouble with facing so I improvised as best as I could to attach front facing to shoulder area.

3. French seams were used as often as possible as well as a bit of serging.

4. This is an easy pattern that lets the fabric stand out – exactly what I wanted.

Sewaholic Granville

Light Coral Small Print Shirt

Sewaholic 1501 Granville Fitted Shirt

100% Cotton

The fit of my shirt – princess seaming in back, shaped hem are definitely true to the Granville, however, I often combine construction techniques from Kwik Sew 3555, Nancy Zieman, Pam Howard  and other resources to create my favorite shirt.  

Kristin’s Garments

Vogue 1648

Julio Cesar Fleece Jacket

Vogue 1648

Polar fleece, activewear knit

1. Omitted back pleat because of thick fabric.

2. Kept a center back seam for shaping at neck.

3. Nice fit but maybe a bit close if using a non stretch woven as pattern calls for.

4. Omitted lining.

Turtleneck

Vogue 9337

Vogue 9337

Activewear knit

1. Pattern has a half neck piece for front of turtleneck-maybe to give better shoulder neck shaping?

2. Turtleneck isn’t meant to be turned down-one layer, hemmed at top.

3. Turtleneck is close fitting and long.

Leggings

Jalie Clara High Waisted Leggings #3887

Activewear knit

1. Center front seam is on fold and pattern has a gusset.

2. Easy to assemble. Near perfect fit. Made the version without waistband.

3. Only took in at knee-otherwise leg fit snugly.

One More Vogue Jacket

Vogue 1642

Polar fleece, activewear knit

1. Chose the longer version, View B.

2. Eliminated zip in collar.

3. Very large through shoulders and bust and then tapers to hem.

4. Collar opening too wide.

5. Sleeves are wide.

6. Pattern calls for zips in side seams, I just did slits.

March Fashion Sewing Club

Tuesday, March 10 at Treadle Yard Goods

Thursday, March 12 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Saturday, March 14 at Treadle Yard Goods

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

January Club Photos

February Club starts tomorrow!

Saturday, February 8, 10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, February 11, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, February 13, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Debbie’s Garments:

McCall 8022

Plum sweater Knit Dress/Tunic

McCalls 8022

Wool Knit Blend

1.Shortened between shoulder and bust and a total of 4 inches in dress length and 5 inches in sleeve length.

2.Eliminated pockets and constructed classic tee neckband over collar with casing or hood.

3. Quick and easy make and toasty warm!

*Turtleneck – Kwik Sew 4069, Jersey with 94% cotton, 6% elastic.

Novelty Knit Dress/Tunic

New Look 6632

Jacquard Double Knit poly/lycra

Contrast is also poly/lycra blend

1.Shortened between shoulder and bust and a total of 3 inches in dress length.

2.Pattern calls for bias tape finished neck edge – I removed seam allowance from neck opening and constructed a classic tee neckband.

3.Pockets were eliminated.

4.I was concerned about the Empire seaming but it seems to disappear in the stitching and I like the resulting fit.

McCalls 7286

Orange Sweatshirt

McCalls 7286

Organic Fleece with 50% Hemp-

30% Cotton and the rest is unknown!

Trim is Poly Nordic Sweater Knit

1.Shortened sleeves 2 inches and 1 inch in body length .

2. The fit is close fitting so I straightened the side seams from below bust to hem and used 1/4 inch seam allowances.

3.Changed order of construction  – attach sleeves to front and back first rather than sewing side and underarm sleeves and setting into top.

4.Cuffs were added to sleeves for contrast.

5.The neckline is low – as a sweatshirt I would like to have a little more coverage for warmth so I will be wearing a warm undergarment or turtleneck during our long Minnesota winters!

Jalie Marie Claude

Purple Raglan Turtleneck – Jalie Marie Claude

Dark Wash Jeans– Jalie Eleonore

Kristin’s Garments:

Simplicity 8218

Mockingjay Sweater Jacket

Simplicity 8218

Novelty wool, rayon boiled wool knit

1. Raised armhole 1” and decreased width of sleeve 1 1/2” to get a closer but not too close fit.

2. Applied the collar as a folded, finished unit. Collar seams got quite bulky.

3. Trimmed the fur from all seam allowances.

4. Eliminated all facings for obvious reasons 🙂

New Look 6632

Title Nine Dress

New Look 6632

Beyond Yoga knit

1. Pattern has great fitting options.

2. Pattern calls for separate scarf but I added an 8” cowl with a 3/8” seam allowance to neck on pattern. No other changes needed at neckline.

3. Added cuff to sleeve to make it more casual.

4. Top stitched to look more ready to wear.

5. Great winter wear fabric!

Butterick 6597

Sweater Skirt

Butterick 6597

Sweater knit, ponte, tricot

1. Pattern has wide band in shape of rectangle (not contour) which is not that great for fitting so I put together the lower skirt and it fit perfectly without band so added 1” casing.

2. No side seams in this pattern. Love it!

3. Underlined the center section with tricot in case the sweater knit stretched and then liked the feel of lining so much that I lined the rest of skirt-hand stitched to center section.

Tuesday’s Triumph’s and Trials

All sewing is a great adventure-a garment that you will wear is merely a lucky byproduct of that adventure 🙂

With that in mind, here are some November sewing adventures-there’s still more to come from Thursday’s (11/14) meetings- 10:30 am at SR Harris, Burnsville 6:30 pm at First Sewing, Bloomington

This was the triumph-Wiksten Harem pants-or is the smile because she’s going to be a grandma??
And this was her trial-maybe no interfacing in the neck?
Japanese apron and Light and Shadows/Cutting Line Designs in wool
Very much Honorable Mention for her unmentionables
Butterick 6492 and 6634
Love the print on print!
Cutting Line blouse and Japanese scarf
She couldn’t go to class with just any old pincushion 🙂