June’s Garment Sewing Group

We’re back in person. It seems sudden and wonderful and hard to remember what we’re supposed to do!

Thanks to everyone who attended-both in person and on Zoom. It was so good to see real faces again! See you in July-

Kristin’s Garments

Crinkled Linen Kimono

Burda 6244

Washed linen

1. Wanted a lightweight jacket in this crinkly, lovely colored linen. Listened to Linda Lee on YouTube-https://youtu.be/lEzd3WhK91— and decided to use a kimono pattern to minimize the challenges of working with the crinkle fabric.

2. Stabilized back neck, shoulders, sleeve cap and interfaced sleeve band and neckband.

3. I was able to use differential feed to finish edges of hem and then turn up and coverstitch with differential feed also.

4. I regret coverstitching the neckband as it waved a bit but guessing a second washing (I washed after construction to see what happens) and I won’t even be able to tell.

5. Garment is 4” shorter than pattern-ran out of fabric but also like it this length.

6. Shortened sleeves and added band for a more finished look than pattern.

Plum Tee

Classic Tee by Love Notions

Cotton Interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit

1. Made to pattern except for increasing hips one size. Love the flexibility of this pattern and the range of sizes. Great basic!!

Straight Leg Cropped Pant

Free Range Slacks by Sew House Seven

Linen

1. Made to pattern according to measurements. It’s a high waisted pant with roomy legs but a comfortable/close fit at hips.

2. Side strip gives a break up line for both front and side view.

3. Facing at waistband is nice for reducing bulk-I used rayon to further reduce bulk.

4. Omitted side pockets but put in one back pocket for cell phone. Fun inseam application.

Plum Tunic

Terra Tunic by Love Notions

Cotton interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit

1. Made the scoop version-will make it more crew next time-just personal preference.

2. Fabric made for a looser fit.

3. Mitered the corners on side seams as opposed to square fold in directions. Deep 2+’’ hem.

4. Length is to pattern. Made Large through shoulders and went to XL at hip.

Sailor Tunic

Terra Tunic by Love Notions-version 2

Cotton French terry-more cotton in stripe than solid

1. Made the boatneck version-facing, interfaced and all. Love it. Fits very nicely.

2. Wish I could say that for the rest of the top!! The plum tunic above was saggy baggy so I cut may pattern down to a medium at the shoulders and large at hips. Evidently I didn’t check amount of stretch. Still love it but will gift to daughter 🙂

Dandelion Green Tee

Melrose Top by Itch to Stitch

Rayon challis

1. One more of these in a great print. Fabric has been in stash. Got the lower band wide enough this time. Fixed the last one by opening up side seam bands and making vent.

2. This class is still available June 24 and July 1, 1-3 pm at First Sewing, Bloomington.

Debbie’s Garments:

Poppy Day Brightener Dress

Very Easy Vogue 8764

Yarn Dyed Cotton Shirting

1. Did my standard petite adjustments and narrow shoulder and rounded back changes.

2. I changed the V neck opening to a scoop and did not line the dress as pattern directs.

3. I did a serged bias edge for neckline and placed the zipper one inch lower than neck edge.

4. To adjust for fit and construction techniques I prefer I changed the order of construction.

5. The pattern is one I have been wanting to try for awhile and I am generally  pleased with it, except for the large scoop neckline.

Orange Gingham Ruffle Sleeve Blouse

Amy Butler Liverpool Blouse Pattern

1. This is a favorite blouse pattern. I haven’t used it for awhile and found I needed to do some new fitting adjustments for lots of reasons! They include petiting between bust and shoulder, narrow shoulder adjustment

2. I also hacked the pattern a bit to copy a RTW look by shortening the hem and changing to a shirt tail style, and eliminating the cuff and adding a band and ruffle to the sleeve.

3. I did add interfacing to collar and placket because the gingham is light weight.

4. The designer of the pattern is a quilter so I did change some construction  techniques that I prefer.

Coral Blazer

Metra Blazer with shawl collar by Love Notions

100% poly Ponte

1. I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust and shortened front, back and sleeve length by 2 inches.

2. I love the shawl  collar and the faux welt pocket. Great designer details and very good sewing instructions.

3. The fabric sewed up beautifully using my seger but not the sewing machine.  Therefore I needed to adjust some sewing techniques and use  steam a seam on the hems.

4. I usually line the sleeves of an unlined jacket but due to the slippery feel of the fabric and the fact that it is a knit, lining the sleeves was not necessary.

5. It’s a wearable muslin that I will make again.

July Garment Sewing Group-Stay tuned for changes may happen 🙂

Thursday, July 8, 10:30, Zoom

Saturday, July 10, 10:30

Tuesday, July 13, 10:30 we may change to Wednesdays

We’ll Be In Person at Treadle!!!

Wow! It feels so good to be out with people! We finished our first day of classes back in person at Treadle today. New classroom is nice.

And now it’s time to get back in person for Garment Sewing Group!

We’ll be at Treadle for Garment Sewing Group:

Tuesday, June 8 and Saturday, June 12 at 10:30 am-our regular time

Our regular Zoom meeting will be on Thursday, June 10, for anyone who is from out of state or doesn’t want to get out just yet.

We’ll follow the same procedure as before-you can pay at the meeting or register online if that works better for you. Notes for the meeting will be distributed at the meeting.

Zoom attendees can register online and notes will be sent by email.

Our in person meeting will be in the new Treadle classroom-come to the Grand Av. entrance.

Hope you can make it some way-we’ve missed many people!

May Garment Sewing Group

Garment Sewing Group

May 2021

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Peach Jacket

Liesl + Co Yanaka

Japanese Cotton/Bemberg underlining/lining

1. Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust. Did not do any other shortening – it is a crop jacket and I did not want it any shorter than pictured.

2. The jacket is unlined which I don’t mind because I usually line the sleeves for easy on and off. However, due to the sleeve design I could not line just the sleeves. So I made a muslin from lining, checked fit and made adjustments and then lined the entire jacket by stitching the rs of lining to rs of jacket except at jacket hem.

3. The jacket has faced hems so it was easy to baste lining to jacket at hems and then add the facing.  I had to think out construction steps carefully to get my desired finish. A jacket without lined sleeves does not work for me.

4. The lining hides the seams and I had fun binding the facing with contrast stripe.

5. I like the pattern. The directions are clear and isn’t a difficult make at all, especially if you do not care about lining.

Peach Stripe Tee (pictured above under jacket

Art Gallery Jersey Knit ( very off grain) made from my TNT, McCalls 6964

Large Floral Periwinkle Wrap Skirt

Cotton sateen with Bemberg lining

Simplicity 8699, View C, lengthened

1. I liked the contour waistband on this skirt so I thought I would give it a try. It is an unlined skirt so once again I needed to make some changes in construction.

2. I constructed the skirt, cutoff facing of lining leaving seam allowance and stitched the lining to the skirt rst at wrap facing edges.

3. Then I basted the lining to the skirt at waist and added the waistband. I think it worked out well.

4.The pattern calls for two buttons at wrap but I added a third. I also had fun adding bias trim to waistband facing.

Periwinkle Short Sleeve Turtleneck (pictured above)

Cotton/Spandex jersey knit

TNT Jalie T-Shirts Pattern 2805

Light Weight Joggers

Denim

Jalie Vanessa Pants

1. This is my second make from this pattern. I went down a size and added cuffs with elastic.

2.My first pair was made with a light weight  linen blend , no cuffs.

3. Between the two pairs and the fit adjustments I have made a third pair would be perfect – I think!

Indigo Leaves Top (pictured above)

Rayon jersey

Jalie 2682 Women’s tops

This is a favorite pattern. I am finding this time of year I want my neck to be warm so this Tee and the short sleeve Turtleneck meet my needs as we move from spring to summer.

Kristin’s Garments

Vanessa Fluid Pant by Jalie—Black linen/activewear knit

1. Added length, swapped waistband and ankle cuffs for Hudson Pant pattern pieces and cut from knit.

2. Eliminated elastic from ankle cuffs as activewear knit gathered linen.

3. Linen is definitely bulkier at the waist with the gathering but great for the pattern design.

Spring Green Jacket

Metra Blazer from Love Notions

Activewear knit with fleece on wrong side

1. This is similar to Debbie’s Morris Blazer/Grainline Studios. Princess seams on front and side seam goes toward back so almost not a “side” seam. Longer than Morris with collar options.

2. Great directions and drafting. Marking lines blur sometimes. Full bust option.

3. Pocket welt is clever and easy to insert.

4. Front lapel is applied with burrito roll so very clean interior.

5. Love the Love Notions instructions-clear, beautifully laid out and very well organized-links to tutorials that I watched for the welt and burrito roll/shoulders.

6. Lapels lie flat, fabric may be not the best but it is a nice alternative to a zip fleece!

The Top That Every Pattern Company Makes

Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch

Linen, rayon and chambray

1. Itch to Stitch has a large size range and cup sizes so I wanted to test the pattern in different sizes and fabrics before jumping in and using for class.

2. The instructions are very old school so I ignored them and applied the bands with my serger and topstitched the seam allowances toward the body of garment.

3. Pattern is well drafted-sleeves are nicely narrow/no bra view under arm. The neck could be a bit smaller, depending on the fabric you use. Band seemed to be a bit smaller than bottom of garment so I would cut band larger next time so I can accommodate as needed.

4. Bust dart for C+ cup sizes needs to point up-not much room under arm to move up.

5. Added a few touches-machine embroidery on chambray and bias binding on linen.

Garnet Hill PJ Pants

Tranquil Pajamas/Love Notions

Art Gallery cotton knit/linen binding

1. I’ve been ripping this pajama style out of the catalog for years!! The Love Notions pattern is exactly what I needed.

2. Pants are one seam and fit spot on-except for the peak of the center back seam but that is easily cut down.

3. The tulip detail takes a little time-the detail piece is topstitched on but could easily be sewn into the seam-but that’s what makes them special.

4. I think I have a new favorite pattern company!! And they are on sale till May 10-40% off!!

New pattern printing company-Sublime Grafx

1. Print patterns in tissue, light white paper or regular heavier white paper.

2. Patterns are printed in color if the file is in color-no extra charge.

3. Flat fee for printing no matter how many pages-$10, $8 and $6 per pattern.

4. There was an email or two between us to get it sorted but they were very nice and I love my tissue patterns!

5. I learned from ordering both from Sublime Grafx and Pattern Review that if you want all sizes you need to tell them. They are saving trees and assume you are making only one size.

June Garment Sewing Group Zoom /Live? We will keep you posted!

Tuesday, June 8, 10:30 Thursday, June 10, 10:30 Saturday, June 12, 10:30

Classes for May and June

Woohoo! In person classes are finally (well, almost) here! All First Sewing classes are in person. Treadle classes will be via Zoom for May and hopefully in store in June as long as the Covid trend continues as it is.

To register for First Sewing classes, click on the menu bar “Classes at First Sewing“.

To register for Treadle classes, go to the store or call 651-698-9690.

Contact us for more questions-more information about the classes can be found in the class listings on our website and Treadle’s.

All Classes May-April

Post Sergery: A Knit Tee for Me!

You made a no-stress tee for a child in Basic Sergery. Now it’s time to tackle a tee that you will actually wear! We’ll supply the Terra Tunic pattern from Itch to Stitch; it has a variety of necklines and silhouettes to keep you serging all summer long. We’ll cover techniques for measuring your body to choose a pattern size, fit issues, neckband application, hems, plus learn hands-on how to order and work with a large format printing of a PDF pattern.

You don’t have to be a Basic & Beyond graduate but you do need to know how to get a 4 thread stitch on your serger 🙂

Thursday, May 20 and 27, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store

Wednesdays, June 2 and 9, 10-12 pm at Treadle-in store

Basic & Beyond Sergery

Do you have a serger you don’t know how to use? Are you a little confused about threading? Take the fear out of serging and get comfortable with what could become your favorite sewing tool. Sessions cover machine parts, threading, rolled hem, flatlock, techniques, serging a basic tee and more.

A child sized, cut out tee will be provided to practice your new skills. Construction techniques will be emphasized.

Thursdays, May 20, 27, June 3, 10-12 pm at First Sewing-in store

Thursdays, June 17, 24, July 1, 10-12 pm at First Sewing-in store

Tuesdays, May 18, 25, June 8, 1-3 pm via Zoom-register with Treadle

Wednesdays, June 16, 23, 30, 10-12 pm at Treadle-in person at Treadle

Post Sergery: Woven Top

Make the Melrose Top by Itch to Stitch (pattern provided) and serge/sew an easy to wear summer top. We’ll cover techniques for bias neck binding, French seams, and band application, plus learn hands-on how to order and work with a large format printing of a PDF pattern.

Tuesdays, May 18 and 25, 10-12 pm via Zoom-register with Treadle

Thursdays, June 24, July 1, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store

Jalie Eleonore Pull-on Pant

A breeze to sew and wear, skinny jeans are a wardrobe staple. Make yours from stretch denim/twill or ponte knit and the Jalie Eleonore pattern. Without a zipper, the techniques are pretty easy!

This is just the best pattern for crotch fit, close to thigh, close to ready to wear, that we can find!! (Humble opinion, of course 🙂 Most people need to make only a few tweaks.

Wednesdays, June 2, 9, 16, 1-3 pm at Treadle-in store

Collar Techniques

In this hands-on class we will go step by step through the techniques for a wrapped collar, one seam collar, and collar-into-stand methods of construction. You may want to have a shirt cut out or have your pattern handy at class so you can adapt your pattern for these great techniques.

Thursday, June 3, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store

Sew Social

Cutting out patterns on the floor? Got questions about pattern directions? Bring your project or sewing goals and spread out in our spacious classroom. We will help you choose pattern, fabric, decipher pattern directions, fit-whatever you need. And meet other sewists that share your passion! Come as often as you can and sew what you want-

Thursdays, June 10, 17, 1-4 pm First Sewing-in store

Sew for Yourself-What You Need to Know

Garment sewing for the first time or getting back into it-we’ll outline the things that will make the adventure a bit less hazardous and more satisfying. Garment sewing isn’t for the faint of heart but seen as a pursuit rather than a pass/fail event and armed with what we’ve learned over the years, you will fall in love with the craft and art of sewing.

Choosing your size, indie patterns, Pdf printing, knits and new fabrics, fit issues and techniques are some of the topics we’ll cover.

Wednesdays, June 23 and 30, 1-3 pm at Treadle-in store

May Makes

Here are some of the garments that showed up this week for Garment Sewing Group-one more meeting Thursday, May 13 at 10:30.

Remaking men’s shirts
Helix Tee from Sewing Workshop
Burda 6243
Closet Case Caroline Pajamas
African wax resist fabric as jacket
Self drafted leather bag that checked all the boxes

April Garment Sewing Group

From cold March sewing to hopes of April showers-

April 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Botanical Print Brown/Navy Jacket

Grainline Studio Morris Blazer  

Stretch cotton bottom weight with Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining

A Favorite TNT pattern.

1. Made standard petite adjustments.

2. French seams for front, back and sides. Attached interfacing to facing rst on outside edge for a clean finish.

3. It is an unlined jacket but I lined sleeves for easy on and off over other garment.

4. Changed order of construction.

Navy Darted Neckline Tee

Vogue 9205, View A

Cotton/Spandex Jersey.

1.Did standard petite adjustments and shortened length by 3 inches.

Good Basic Tee pattern with just a few minor tweaks.

Navy Print Princess Seam Unlined Jacket

Vogue 1644

Japanese Cotton with Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining.

1. Made a muslin and made the following adjustments: petited between shoulder and bust, narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed  sleeve width at hem and did not shorten length of jacket.

2. I feel the jacket runs larger than info stated on pattern envelope and therefore wish I would have made a bit smaller in some areas.

3. Changed order of construction to be able to check fit as I sewed.

4.I cut the under collar on the bias and added a back neck facing to eliminate slip stitching.

5. It is an okay pattern but lacked sewing techniques that takes the garment up a notch or two.

Green/Vanilla Dot Pullover Blouse

New look 6434, View A

Silk

1. I like this pattern mainly because it has a bust dart and is not oversized.

2. I did standard petite adjustments as well as lowering bust dart one inch.

13. I am not a fan of the back opening with button  loop so I inserted an invisible zipper the “couture”method with zipper pull one inch from top of neck edge.

14. I used self bias tape and curved the bottom hem slightly.

Sew Your Roll-Purple new born bottom with lace inserted into pocket and sheer rose on pocket and center front.

Kristin’s Garments

Another Diagonal Cut Coat

Sapporo Coat, Papercut Patterns, long version

Wool herringbone

(Continued on next page)

1. Made a size 4 and went to 5 at hips. Took out 2” of length above bust line to bring diagonal closer to face and make armhole smaller. Made corresponding changes to sleeve.

2. Construction went very well. Clear directions-all fit together-except for sleeve lining and sleeve facing but that could have been due to the changes I made in sleeve width, etc.

3. Omitted pocket to keep things clean and close at waist. Added black trim to seam lines for added interest.

Something to Wear With Crazy Coats

Remy Raglan by Sew House Seven

Rayon challis

1. Cut the version with 3/4 sleeve with button at neck but made hem straight instead of curved because of print.

2. Pattern instructions are great-french seams, etc.

3. Neck is large enough to fit head so I sewed button to fabric and eliminated the loop.

4. Fit is just OK. Side seams droop which may be why the hem is curved in pattern. Sleeves are wide which allows rolling up-cool, unless your print isn’t double sided. May try narrow elastic in sleeve hem to gather in.

5. Armhole is high enough but quite wide across bust so fit is just OK-not a keeper IMHO.

Final Stripe Fabric Coat (with a party inside 🙂

Pendleton stripe wool/lining of indeterminate content

Burda 7700-TNT (tried and true)

1. Basted lining fabric to each piece as an underlining, except for back piece to which I added a pleat in the lining.

2. Had fun playing with the stripes which couldn’t be matched up for more than a few at a time on the diagonal.

3. Next time I will sew the collar on with the facing folded around to front to avoid the dreaded muck at center front joining. (How many times have I made this pattern??

4. Added Hong Kong finish at hems.

5. Very happy with the coat. It replaces a well worn earlier version in my studio.

6. Go to Woolenmill.store to find Pendleton wool for garment sewing.

A Little Woven, A Little Knit

Annika Top by StyleArc

Ponte knit, linen check

1. Pattern is drop shoulder and not very fitted but I think the style lines hit me in the right places.

2. Cuff is single layer-definitely would be nice doubled.

3. Started out with a larger size and went down one size.

4. Great for leftover fabrics and all the stretch in the right places!

Sew Your Roll Challenge

Leggings and Lace

Simplicity 8212

Activewear knit and lace

1. Highly acclaimed pattern has been in my stash for quite some time along with the fabric from SR Harris.

2. Pants zipped up quickly and fit fairly well. Topstitched to keep lace seam allowances in place. Added a small band to ankle.

March’s Garments

Garment Sewing Group

March 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Coral Spring Coat With Party Inside

Burda 6772, View A and B combined

Cotton Sateen with a little stretch and rayon lining (Bemberg for sleeves)

1.  Adjusted fit by petiting between shoulder and bust, waist and hip and one inch at hem.

2. Took in back princess seam 3/4 inch above waist.

3. Tapered sleeve starting under arm to hem approx. one inch.

4. Removed 3/8” sleeve ease at cap notch to notch.

Construction –

5. I decided to do soft tailoring and added fusible weft to sleeve head, hems.

Used hair canvas on upper back and upper front chest.

Tie interfacing was used for sleeve cap. 

Fusible interfacing and shoulder pads were added as pattern directs.

6.  I changed order of construction and used wrapped method for collar.

7.  I eliminated the side flaps and back pleat in lining and gathered that area for less restrictive movement.

This was a fun make!

Loose Fitting Pullover Woven Top

McCalls 7360, View C

Rayon twill

1. Did my standard petite adjustments and shortened sleeve and body length by 2 inches.

2. Then I realized I choose the wrong size category – should have gone down a category. Oh well – made some adjustments and I am happy with it.

3. I especially like the collar, back yoke and pleats and front placket.

4. My choice of fabric makes it difficult to see the details. Wearing this feels more interesting and comfortable then your standard every day tee.

Warmer Weather Wrap Robe

McCalls 8056

Light weight rayon jersey

1. Standard petite adjustments, shortened length of sleeves and body by one inch.

2. The body of the robe is very full so I straightened the side seams starting at under arm down to hem by 3 inches on each side. I also took out width from sleeve from under arm to hem, again by 3 inches. It is still very wide.

3. I changed order of construction and attached band to robe by folding long edge of band wst and serging it to robe and topstitching. The pattern directs to sew one edge of band to robe, press and slip stitch. I try to avoid that as much as possible!

4. I added inseam pockets. They don’t float due friction of knit.

5. I wore out a RTW robe like this one so I thought I would give this pattern from my stash a try. The fabric is not a favorite and the pattern is no longer in my possession.

Sew Your Roll- Child’s pink tee with bright cuffs.

Kristin’s Garments:

Raglan Toaster Mash Up

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater-raglan version

Cotton sweatshirt knit, activewear waffle knit, interlock stripe

1. This is what happens when you don’t have enough of one fabric, but to be honest, it’s probably better that the whole sweater wasn’t the cobweb print!

2. Made to pattern except for widening at hem and hem band. What a great pattern!

3. FYI-cuffs are very difficult to topstitch (and you don’t have to) so may want to apply flat if topstitching is part of your plan.

What To Do With the Funnel Neck?

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater-funnel version

Double faced knit

1. Some people find the facings of the funnel version a bit high maintenance so I played a bit. You may want to try one or two of them but certainly all would be overkill.

2. First, I cut the back facing with a long curve as we see in ready to wear thinking the weight of the fabric would hold it down and solve the front vs. back problem (I know, it’s a high low hem 🙂 I ended up topstitching it down. I like the back interest.

3. Embroidering something on the back neck would also hold the back in place.

4. Topstitching the fold of the funnel definitely keeps the neck in place-mark the fold line and pin in place to be sure you get it right.

Did you know?? Itch to Stitch just released their Gothenburg Top which is the spitting image of the Sew House Seven funnel version but it has a bust dart, cup sizes, forward shoulder AND size range of 00-40! And they’ve added AO Copyshop format.

Hudson Pant #2

Hudson Pant by True Bias

Activewear knit

1. My first version of these was a rayon knit so I didn’t trust the fit. Had to try again.

2. Many of our students looked at the photos and decided to add 1” to the rise. We added the inch between the notch below the pocket and the lower “corner” of the pocket.

3. I made the ankle cuffs bigger by an inch to keep them from riding up on my ankles.

4. The 1” addition to the rise turned out to be mostly not necessary but using 1” elastic made it go away.

5. I would make the pocket band shorter next time as it bagged a bit.

6. Very comfy pants but not sure I will wear them as pants for public scrutiny-just my body shape 🙂

Cigarette Pants

Renee by Jalie Patterns

Rayon knit

1. Skinny pant for ponte knits with back darts to eliminate bulk and a long skinny inset as faux pockets to give a nice line.

2. I first made a pair 3 sizes too big as there was quite a bit of negative ease-these are the gray ones. I like the fit. Quite high waisted but comfy. Don’t miss pockets at all-but that’s me.

3. Had to try them in “my” size just to see-this would be the red pair.

Spring Jacket

Tania by Jalie Patterns

Ponte knits

1. Very attracted to the diagonal lines because I have a piece of wool stripe but the collar was my hang up. Made to pattern and it’s just OK.

2. Stay tuned to see what form the jacket takes…

Sew Your Roll-Muse Playsuit by Stitch Upon a Time-sweet pattern-well written-gusset is a challenge.

April 2021 Garment Sewing Group via Zoom

Saturday, April 10, 10:30

Tuesday, April 13, 10:30

Thursday, April 15, 10:30 (this is a departure from regular 2nd Thursday)

March Madness?

Not really, just some fun and inspiring sewing 🙂

The Sew Your Roll challenge brought out these garments (and this is just Tuesday, mind you-)

Marianne based her top on the Sewing Workshop High Five Jacket
Barb made some changes to her old Ikina Jacket pattern from Sewing Workshop-turns out they’ve revised the pattern-with all of her changes!!

And then there was the Sew and Tell-

Pam’s second version of Ellie & Mac’s Be Creative Hoodie
Bernie continues with his full length coat
Sample sleeve for coat above
Diana tackles the Helix Pant from Sewing Workshop
And has sew much fun with her granddaughters
Barb rocked her sewing this month-this is the Los Gatos Vest
The Eureka Top from Sewing Workshop
And KwikSew 3915
A little seasonal color from Pam

More coming from the Thursday and Saturday groups!

January Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s been working overtime this month thinking of things to keep our interest up during the long winter months. We started a “Sew Your Roll” challenge! Our first attempts were fun (after a little initial whining 🙂 The rules are listed at the end of the post.

Next month’s challenge will be white, shiny and contrast! Yes, more whining but that’s how the dice rolled/cookie crumbles. Give it a shot-win $10 gift certificate at Treadle if your name is drawn.

We also reinstated our practice of drawing a name from those of you that have a project to show. Your name will be entered as many times as you attend in a month and you will get free admittance the next month if your name is drawn!

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy Blazer

Jasika Jacket, Closet Core Pattens

Wool Flannel, Rayon Lining

I have been  thinking about a tailored jacket for awhile. Once the pandemic hit I felt now is the time. 

I gathered all my fabric and supplies and started the jacket in November and finished just before Christmas. A slow and Therapeutic Sew!

1. Made a muslin and did basic adjustments.

2. The pattern is well drafted and the instructions are excellent.

3. Modern tailoring techniques and supplies are used with just the right amount of hand stitching.  It was a great experience for me.

Navy Classic Dot Shirt

Kwik Sew 3555

Same rayon used for lining of jacket

1. My favorite classic shirt pattern. However I found that the pattern is a bit outdated in fit and collar size so I may be on the lookout for a new TNT shirt pattern.

Green/Teal Shawl Coatigan

Loren Jacket by Style Arc

Double faced Wool Knit

1. Tested various preshrinking techniques and found that placing the wool in the dryer with a damp towel gave me the results I was looking  for.

2. Did my standard fitting adjustments.

3. Tested several seam techniques on scraps and went with stitching the seams with the sewing machine, press open and topstitch on each side.

8. Also tested several edge finishes and went with edge stitching cut edges and then top stitching 1/4” from edge stitch.

9. The patch pockets are underlined with silk for a smooth finish.

10. Another therapeutic sewing project.

Sew and Roll Challenge-Iris Tee by Forget Me Not Patterns, Rayon Jersey

1. When sewing the cuff to the sleeve I left a small opening about an inch in length to add a tie to the cuff of each sleeve to add the detail for my roll!

Color-Tan

Shade-Neutral (white, black, grays, browns)

Detail- Tie

Kristin’s Garments:

Right side out version
Inside out version

Sew Your Roll Challenge

Neige Sweater-Deer and Doe

Assorted blends of sweater knit

  1. Chose a mashup of views-longer length, wide stand up collar and no cuffs.
  2. Arranged fabrics for a reversible option.
  3. Serged seams to accentuate “Michelin man” arms.
  4. Added binding to hem for reversibility.
  5. Pattern well drafted and instructions good. Separate booklet for English and French

Yoga Sweatshirt

Oliver Pattern from Seamwork

Activewear fabric

  1. Closer fit through shoulder and bust.
  2. Added a band as it was just a bit short.
  3. Added subtle accents with flatlock stitching on serger.
  4. Reversed the fabric for another subtle accent.

Wool Sweater

Talvikki Sweater from Named Patterns

Wool sweater knit

  1. Neck darts were easier than expected. Like the accent at face level.
  2. Neck facing is activewear knit (pattern called for stretch interfacing so I thought it would do nicely as neck must stretch some to get over head.
  3. Sleeves were large and underarm low so took in and raised 2”.
  4. Side seam vents were a bit high so lowered 2”.

Sew Your Roll Garment Challenge

Rules – follow the color, shade and detail

Garments only please – No bags or Masks

Make something for yourself or others

Use up your stash, re-fashion previous make or even a RTW

Purchase new fabric from a different source than usual

Have Fun!

Color: 1. Can’t be rolled 2. Pink 3. White 4. Purple 5. Black 6. Blue 7. Teal 8. Green 9. Red 10. Yellow 11. Gray 12. Orange

Shade: 1. Can’t be rolled 2. Dark 3. Earthy 4. Pastel. 5. Neon 6. Print 7. Bright 8. Sheer 9. Muted 10. Solid 11. Neutral 12. Pick Your Own

Detail 1. Can’t be rolled 2. Ruffle 3. Cut out 4. Asymmetric 5.Cuffs 6. Buttons 7. Bow 8. Color Block 9. Lace insert 10. Puff Sleeve 11. Contrast 12. Pocket

February 2021 Garment Sewing Group via Zoom

Tuesday, February 9, 10:30

Thursday, February 11, 10:30

Saturday, February 13, 10:30

December Garment Sewing Group

Happy Holidays, everyone! This is our last Group meeting for 2020. We want to thank everyone for hanging out and inspiring us and wish you the best in 2021!.

We will be on Zoom Thursday, December 17, from 1-2 pm for Sew Social (free!) if anyone wants to stop by and say hi!

Garment Sewing Group

December 2020

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Autumn Floral Sweater Knit Dress

McCalls 7432, View C

Brushed sweater knit

1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as a rounded back adjustment. I find the back neckline too low for colder months so this adjustment helps with that and unfortunately I am getting rounder in all the wrong places!

2. The dress is lined/underlined with tricot except for sleeves. I don’t want the dress sticking to my tights.

3. A TNT pattern that checks all the right boxes.

Denim Novelty Knit Top

Itch to Stitch Bellavista Top

1. Did standard petite adjustments.

2. Cut one layer of cowl neck piece and decreased width of cowl due to heaviness of fabric – just too much of everything.

3. The ws of the cowl is stitched to the rs of neck edge for a cleaner finish.

4. Not a fan of this fabric and pattern. Probably operator error in choice of fabric.

Orange/Tan Dot Zipper Hem Sweatshirt

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater Adapted

Cotton French Terry, Two 7” zippers

1.To match my inspiration I made a full front pattern piece and drew my design lines . Then I cut the front apart and added sa . See photo.

2. The asymmetrical seam allowances were stabilized in zipper area. Then the side seams were stitched from armhole to zipper opening.

3. Zippers were inserted leaving a one inch hem allowance. The top was completed as pattern directs.

4. I never tire of the Toaster Sweater – so much versatility  in design and fabric.

Kristin’s Garments:

Workout Jacket with Twists

Activewear with fleece backing/Joann Fabrics

Butterick 6596 OOP

1. A slow sew garment with many twists and turns. May have been some better techniques to use when sewing with knits.

2. Pockets were omitted because of difficulty with pattern directions and they would have been in my armpit!

3. Nice fit with princess seams. Good sleeve width.

4. Zipper was easy to install but probably should have been shorter for sitting.

5. Could use a snap or Velcro to hold asymmetric facing in place.

Sweater Dusters (sounds like something I would use to clean!)

Version A: Blue rayon sweatshirt fleece-more stable knit/Sewing Lounge

Blackwood Cardigan/Helen’s Closet

1. Made to pattern except for wider hips-fit is closer than desired for wearing a long sleeved shirt underneath.

2. Blackwood Cardigan is not supposed to come together at center front-just hang open.

3. Gifted to daughter who said “The cardigan was so comfy and cozy today! I’ll take 5 more please😊”

Version B: Navy double faced wool sweater knit-not so stable/SR Harris

Blackwood Cardigan/Helen’s Closet-same size as Version A

1. No pattern changes so I could compare to Version A. Much more suitable for wearing over another shirt in winter.

2. I like the weight of the band on a clingy sweater knit. Cuffs are also a plus on a thinner knit like this one.

Version C : Navy and neutrals stable wool knit/Treadle

Simplicity 8059 (neck facing) as a base with sew on band from New Look 6735

1. There’s just something about this pattern that keeps me coming back!

2. Love the wool and the “coatigan” feel of it.

3. I prefer the feel of enough fabric to fit around me without being too big (kind of like how it feels to wear short pants when you are tall and have worn short pants because you had to 🙂

Version D: Rust double faced wool sweater knit-not so stable/SR Harris

Simplicity 8059 etc.-same as Version C above

1. Used same pattern size as Version C but added cuffs to bring in at wrists. No lycra in the sweater knit made that a must in my mind. Very happy with results. Great over pj’s.

Designer Shirt

Rayon woven stripe from NYC

Wong-Singh-Jones Jaipur Blouse/Hot Patterns

1. Another slow sew with some challenges. Not a lot of good directions and questionable pattern markings but puzzled through it and it has cool features with the horizontal bust dart, vee neck and cuffs.

2. Tried a new technique on hem band. Last month I used Solvy, this month I sewed bands together for 1” and then refolded seams and stitched remaining band to corner.

3. Won’t make this again but appreciated the designer style and the pattern maker’s faith in me to “make it work”!

(Wong-Singh-Jones refers to a multi-cultural marketing company active from 1990-99?)

Granville Shirt-minus the sleeves!

Shirting cotton/Treadle

Granville Shirt/Sewaholic Patterns

1. Sleeves were sacrificed for another project that needed a contrast 🙂 which wasn’t too hard because I love sleeveless button up shirts.

2. Construction and fit of this shirt pattern with yoke, darts and back princess seams is great!

3. Got into trouble with my bias bound armholes. I hope I remember NOT to use silk as bias binding as it gets narrower as it is stretched!

January 2021 (Yay!) Garment Sewing Group Zoom:

10:30 AM

Saturday, January 9

Tuesday, January 12

Thursday, January 14