November 2018

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
November 2018
http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Katie’s Garments-

Burda 6375- Ultrasuede
1. Sewed view B but omitted pockets-thought it added unnecessary bulk.
2. Pattern is designed for genuine or synthetic leather.
a. Instructions have you glue and topstitch seam allowances down.
b. Used Barge cement glue, which helped a lot!
3. Poor instructions on how to assemble waistband and belt:
a. The picture on the envelope shows only the pleats (not waistband behind it). I decided to double layer the belt, topstich and rotary cut edges flush.
4. Overall, love the look even though there were construction challenges.

Christine Jonson Travel Trio Three (turtleneck)-Cotton rib knit
1. Sewed per pattern-highly recommend it!

Vogue 9341 – Felted wool
1. Chose this pattern because of its simplistic line-thought fabric needed to be the star.
2. Omitted contrasting overlays.
3. Encased seams with a ponte knit binding. Lots of hand basting!
4. Hand-sewed snaps for closures.

Christine Jonson Travel Trio Three (Turtleneck)

Vogue 1598 (pants)- Ponte knit
1. This pattern was highly recommended by another FSC member. – I agree.
2. Followed the recommendation to remove wrinkles under the butt by taking out an extra 1” in leg back seam.
3. Added 1 ½” in length.

McCalls 7847- Faux Fur
1. Fell in love with this pattern as soon as McCall’s released it.
a) Simple design and unlike other faux fur jacket patterns, the facing on the collar shows when the front is turned back. It has a lining too.
2. The collar is constructed so no seams intersect-eliminated bulk.
3. Very messy process to cut pattern pieces and trim fur out of seam allowances. Highly recommend doing this outside.Burda 6848- Double knit and lace
1. Sewed view c with view b sleeves.
2. Added darts in bodice and skirt for better fit.
3. Lengthened skirt by ~5 inches.

Debbie’s Garments-

Sweater Knit Jacket- Burda Style, 9-2018, Jacket 109A/B
The Burda Style Magazine with patterns can be intimidating but I am finding it to be a hidden treasure. Once I got past the how to of tracing and using their patterns, the construction on my first garment was quite easy. I also like the fit – relaxed but not oversized.

I made the following basic garments to wear with the jacket:
Burda 7058-Stretch Woven Cotton Plaid Pants
Kwik Sew 4069 Avalana 94% cotton and 6% rib Turtleneck,

Shawl Collar Jacket– McCalls 7693, View B, Ponte Knit for body, textured knit for collar and ITY for body lining and Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining.
This pattern was more challenging. The instructions are interesting. Does anyone know how to sew an “invisible roll line” on a fold over knit collar? Also too many steps involving slip stitching.

To go with this jacket I made:
Burda 8280-Stretch Cord Tulip Skirt
Rayon /lycra knit ruched Tee shirt – My favorite Tee shirt pattern, McCalls 6964 with combined info from Kwik Sew 3915 and Sew News Magazine, April/May 2018, page 61.

Kristin’s Garments-

Swing Trench With Welt Variation- Burda 6372/Deer and Doe Opium Coat pocket
Weather proof wool, rayon twill lining, stretch mixed fiber plaid
1.Coat is made to pattern-a generous swing with bust dart coming from armhole
2.Made to pattern-would much rather bag a lining! This pattern doesn’t-
3.Wool was a bit tricky when ironing but hope it will wear well
4.Interfaced the stretch plaid whenever it was used
5.Fun to face the fears of welt pockets and then have it turn out!

Split Neck Top- Jalie 2682-
Various sweater knits, French terry
1.Raised the vee stitching line by 1.5”
2.Added 1” to bodice front and back to accommodate lower bust
3.Close athletic fit
4.Took in back “yoke” seam at center to pull back neck down

Kimono Jacket-Simplicity 8795-
Mixed content wovens
1. Princess lines and closer fit is nice
2. Reshaped shoulder within seam allowance

December Fashion Sewing Club
Saturday, December 8, 10:30 at Treadle Yard Goods
Tuesday, December 11, 10:30 and 6:30 at Treadle Yard Goods
Thursday, December 13, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville