October 2018

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club, October 2018
http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Stretch Corduroy Unlined Jacket – Butterick 5926
1. I often line sleeves in unlined jackets but in hindsight I should have lined the entire jacket due to the sticky nature of the corduroy fabric.
2. Pocket hem and buttonholes are the only areas that are interfaced.
3. To shape the pocket bottom curves the pocket tool from Nancy Notions was helpful.
4. I like to construct the collar and then insert it between the facings but this pattern stitches the under collar to the front facings and the lower collar to jacket neck edge and then stitch facing and collars together – not an easy task.

Geometric Print Knit Dress- New Look 6428, View A without Pockets, Rayon/Lycra Blend
For August club I made this dress out of a stripe cotton/lycra blend and prefer it to my new make – not so sticky regards to fit.
I eliminated facings , stitched one shoulder seam and applied a wrap and stitch in the ditch contrast knit band. The second shoulder seam was stitched and dress was completed to pattern omitting pockets and zipper.

Toaster Sweater-Sew House Seven, French Terry Knit
1. I made this pattern last fall out of a novelty knit and love it.
2. This time using a French Terry I constructed the raglan sleeves with a flat lock stitch. I tried that same stitch with the collar but did not like the result.
3. Cuffs and band were constructed with standard machine and the cover stitch was used to add more casual/sporty look.
4. The style of this shirt is causal but it looks great in a stand out fabric. The French Terry does little to make this top a stand out. Darn It!

Northern Boutique Sweater – McCalls 6964, my TNT Tee shirt pattern, Sweater knit
1. For Collar – trace neck edge and shoulder of front and back . Place a mark on top of shoulder 5/8” from armhole cut edge. At neck edge of center front measure down 3-4” and place a mark. Connect the marks to make curve edge for collar pattern piece. Cut a single layer collar piece for front and back.
2. Stablize front and back neck edge of tee shirt and front and back neck edge of collar.
3. Stitch front collar to back collar at shoulder seams. Clean finish outer edge of collar.
4. For tie cut a 1 and 1/2 inch wide rectangle by 12 inches. Stitch rst, Turn right side out. Determine placement of tie and insert tie between collar and neck edge.
5. Stitch rst of collar to ws of neck edge. Continue sweater Tee as pattern directs.

Katie’s Garments:

Burda 7290- Ultrasuede
1. Lederhosen made for Octoberfest party.
2. This was the only lederhosen pattern I could find anywhere. It was well drafted and sewed up beautifully!
3. Sized up one size for comfort. Suggested size had only 3 inches of ease-which I thought would have been too snug for non-stretch ultrasuede.
4. Embellished with lots of decorative stitches on sewing machine and used Laura Murray’s Paintsticks to give an embroidered effect on bib and crotch flap.
5. Used KamSnap press for grommets and bought belt buckles at Tandy Leather.

Burda 7057- Various cottons, linen and ponte from stash
1. For blouse:
a. Raised neckline 1 inch.
b. Finished off neckline before sewing shoulder seam and used straight strips of fabric.
2. For dress:
a. Substituted ponte fabric for bodice. Had to take in princess seams to ensure better fit.
b. Used grommets for lacing instead of hooks/eyes, embellished with store bought trim.
3. Apron: Next time will shorten ties and sew double layers (make tube).

Butterick 6591 – Ponte Knit
1. Sewed view D.
2. Left ruffle edge raw-pattern calls for a hem.
3. Had to shape side and underarm seams a bit.

McCalls 7812 – Cotton lycra knit
1. Sewed view C.
2. Had to take in center front seam ~1.5 inches to prevent gaping.
3. Made tubes of contrast fabric instead of ribbon for ties.
4. Peplum is a tad to short. Next time will lengthen by 1 inch.

Kristin’s Garments:

Vintage Blouse-Rayon knit-Simplicity 8692
1. Rayon knit was my muslin-most forgiving.
2. Didn’t leave opening at beck-no problem getting it over head. Omitted facings at neck-topstitched seam allowance to make collar stand up more.
3. Took up two inches at waist-made fit and length much better.

Fall “Coatigan”-Blue/gray double faced wool-Vogue 9133
1. Pattern calls for shoulder pads-probably best you use them or tie interfacing.
2. Omitted facing because of double sided fabric.
3. Supposed to be a button-not sure I want one.
4. Added my own pocket to copy Lafayette 147.
5. Was hoping to make it reversible but…watch out for double sided fabrics that have a third color in the filling.

Jalie Eleonore Jeans-Gray Suiting Fabric
1. Made to pattern.
Skinny pants-Navy print ponte-Peggy Sagers Skinny Yoga Pant
1.Made to pattern

Coatigan-Black/blue ribbon lace-Simplicity 8059
1.Made to pattern. Facing is linen.

Sweater-Poly/wool knit-Kwiksew 3232
1.Used reverse of fabric for neckband and center front band.

Stars Skirt-Blue star lace-no pattern
1. Used selvedge for hem-gathered on to elastic.
Tee shirt dress-Ponte print-McCalls 7080

1. Omitted back opening-simple tee neckband.
2. Needs forward shoulder. Sleeves quite narrow.
3. Pleats instead of gathers-none at side seams. Skirt has just one seam-width of fabric. Quarter inch elastic in bodice/skirt seam.

November Fashion Sewing Club
Thursday, November 8, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville
Saturday, November 10, 10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, November 13, 10:30 and 6:30 at Treadle