We meet tomorrow, October 11, at Sewing Lounge, 10:30 am. Last chance this month 🙂

Worth the drive to Rochester to Ginny’s Fine Fabrics on Wednesday-

And then at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley-

First, the sewing that we saw at Ginny’s! A pretty full house with attendees from Texas and West Virginia 🙂

And then Debbie and Kristin’s garments:

Debbie’s Garments:

Purple Floral “Cabin Wear” Zip Jacket

This is a quick and easy topper that I have made before.

My fitting adjustments were previously made including petiting and narrow shoulder adjustment. I also narrowed the width of the collar and eliminated the pockets – too small to be of any use.

The next time I make the topper I will add a facing to center front to stabilize and improve appearance of zipper. I would also like to add side seam pockets.

Just another tee to wear under my “cabin wear” jacket.

I like this tee pattern because of the boat neck and close fitting shaping.

Instead of using the neckband facing included in the pattern, I did a serged bias neckband.

Lavender Slouchy Tee (no photo)

Neckline from Jalie Women’s Tee #2805 with Jalie Dolman Tee # 3352

Rayon/Cotton Rib Knit Jersey

Another Tee to go with my “cabin wear” jacket.

Two TNT patterns that work well with a variety of knits create different looks and can fit into capsule wardrobes easily.

This is a fail for me due to the very poor pattern instructions and my choice of fabric.

I made a quick muslin, shortening 1 inch between bust and waist and 1 inch between hip and hem. Sleeves were shortened 2 inches.

I like to make one piece welt pockets so I eliminated the pleats on the welt because I couldn’t figure out how to incorporate them – unfortunate because that detail was one reason why I wanted to make the jacket!

I wanted to believe the fabric was navy – it’s not. Therefore I had difficulty finding a contrast for the sleeves so I settled – the contrast was another reason I was drawn to the pattern!

In the back of my mind all along I knew this make was doomed. Between the pattern, instructions, lack of notches, fabric and construction details, there was little success. Failure brings growth – right?! There won’t be a next time for this jacket but I will recycle the jacquard fabric along with my leftover fabric some day but not for awhile!

This is a TNT blouse pattern mainly because it can easily be switched up to create different looks.

For this version I Changed the V-neck to a round neckline and added a seam to the center back with button closure. I also added a facing instead of a serged bias edge for the neckline.

I especially like the elastic cuffs – just a fun feature.

Kristin’s Garments:

I have had much fun wearing the navy gored skirt inspired by the same magazine so was excited to try the pleated skirt.

Linen was my first choice but as I thought about tracing a line or pulling a thread on a solid linen I saw too many opportunities for frustration. So I chose a fabric with a woven line!

The repeat of the weave gave me the three pleats I needed and in close to the same placement as the darts in the pattern. I stitched down the four lines of each pleat and then added the darts in the four pleats that were in the right place.

Then I cut out the pattern for shaping of the skirt.

The pattern has a waistband facing as does the “skirt”. I topstitched the facing at the bottom edge for the same look. I have no closure as I put skirt on over my head.

The hem took a bit as I had to rip out my pleat stitching to turn up the hem and then resew the pleat stitching but now I know how to treat hems when I pleat-just stop stitching when you get to hem area!

It’s a different look than if it was linen but I think I like the movement/crunchiness/lack of wrinkling that this fabric gives. I think the weave is also small enough to play with other prints well.

Elastic Tie Sweater from The Assembly Line (photo above), barkcloth

My inspiration was a jewel neck simple top in a bold print and this pattern has always been easy to wear so I sewed up the darts that would normally just fold softly with the eyelets and tie and cut off the front neckline. The back already has an additional neck stand so it was eliminated to get the jewel neck.

The barkcloth feels soft but frays and smooshes a bit so I stabilized the shoulder seams and used a not-very-bias binding on the neck edge. A facing may have been a better choice.

The sleeve has an elbow dart and a facing, which is nice as the barkcloth’s wrong side is a stark contrast to the printed right side of fabric.

Inspired by Everyday Style’s podcast on wearing nice things all the time I wanted to have a classic pair of pajamas but not all the fuss of a button front shirt (and I may have a little fabric that was begging to finally be used!!!)

I started with the Holiday Shirt which features a conventional collar and a sewn together center front-eliminating buttons and fuss. I thought I had made this in flannel but it was bigger and baggier than the flannel so back to the drawing board.

Which brought me to the Band Camp Shirt which has a cut on facing so I stitched it up on the center front from hem to center front opening, applied the collar, stitched the facing to neck and I’m really happy with the fit and construction and versatility of the pattern!

On to the pants-I’ve always been a fan of the baggy bum boxer and Jalie had just what I needed. I chose the pattern according to my hip and they are amazing! Long, not too baggy or wide legged and in almost every size-what more can I say! I tried them in a grandchild size and they walked away on the grandchild (after I told him he had them on backwards and his father explained the baggy bum advantage 🙂 And did I mention-the fly is squared off?? No more tight curve topstitching!

October Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, October 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester

Thursday, October 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, October 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Oh, my! The bug bit this month and we’re not quite done! Tomorrow is our meeting at Ginny’s in Rochester. It’s not too late to get into the carpool!

Next week is September’s Garment Sewing Group meetings-

September Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, September 10, Lakes Makerie, Mpls

Thursday, September 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley/Fabric Swap

Saturday, September 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester

Can’t wait to see what our change in weather has inspired!!

I’ve been trying to finish some projects in my studio-

What do you have hiding away that you can bring out in the open?

Next month’s dates and details-switching up our Saturday meeting-

July Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday July, 9, Sewing Inviting, St.Paul

Thursday, July 10, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

***Saturday, July 12, Meet up at Open Studio Sewing, 4210 Minnetonka Boulevard, St. Louis Park-grand opening!! Wear something you’ve sewn.

For just this meeting, we are going to head to the grand opening of Open Studio Sewing. Debbie and I will bring our garments and pattern review sheets for you to see but no formal meeting. Wear something you’ve made and think about what fabrics/notions you’d like to see at the new store in St. Louis Park!
Let us know if you are coming 🙂

Store opens at 11 am-maybe meet for coffee?? More details as date gets closer.

Also, The Stashery has opened at the Textile Center-a year round secondhand textile supplies store.

Fun to see the new options popping up with the closing of Joann!

Debbie’s Garments:

Style Arc Marley Shirt/Jewel Washed Linen

For fit I did my usual petiting as well as narrow shoulder adjustment and shortening body and sleeve length one inch.

Pattern does not call for interfacing the button placket but after testing a piece of scrap fabric I felt the interfacing would be a plus.

I needed to pay attention to the directions carefully since seam allowances go from 3/8” to 1/4”. I did change the order of construction to keep the garment flat as much as possible. I did get myself in trouble though – I did not hem the shirt when pattern directed and made that the last step. It was difficult to maneuver sewing in the round with such a deep hem.

This was a new pattern for me – I especially like the deep, split hem. This pattern is a keeper.

Grainline Studio Willow Tank/Rayon

This is a TNT pattern for me, especially since I have made my necessary fitting adjustments from previous makes. It is a quick and easy make.

I like the neck and armhole bias edge construction rather than facings. I use the serged bias edge method.

This pattern works well with a wide variety of fabric types, makes good use of small amounts of fabric.

Itch To Stitch Santorini Top/Cotton

I made this pattern last summer from a linen as part of a 3 piece outfit. It is a good layering piece, especially under summer toppers.

Even though it is a detailed make I knew it would go together quickly this time since I had made fitting adjustments and also that the pattern directions are excellent.

I put one buttonhole on the side panel and sewed the buttons to the opposing panel without buttonholes. – The tank can be taken on and off easily with just the one button opening.

My first make was a solid linen and the construction details are easily seen. This time with the stripe fabric the princess seams and shaping detail get lost. In retrospect I wish I would have put the stripes horizontal on the front and back side pieces.

Itch To Stitch Melrose/Rayon

Going through my fabric when picking projects this month this piece caught my eye because it went nicely with my teal makes.

I had a limited amount of yardage so pattern choices were limited. After trying to fit a few other patterns on my fabric the Melrose seemed to work the best.

It is a boxy, cropped top so the only fitting adjustment I needed to make was a narrow neckline.

I changed the order of construction by sewing one shoulder seam and then continue with a serged bias neck edge finish. I also did a split hem.

Another quick make but putting a grown on sleeve into a fitted jacket sleeve doesn’t work well. This will not be a layering piece but it does go with my color them.

New Look 6407, View A/Cotton

I made this pattern many years ago and it is a favorite. I do like the fitted style.

Due to my petite adjustments the neckline isn’t too low which is fine in warmer weather but not a style I like to wear in colder weather.

The print main fabric is a bit busy so to break it up I added a contrast fabric to collar, neck band and cuffs. It’s a little bright but I think it works.

The split cuffs are fun and a nice change from classic shirt cuffs.

Kristin’s Garments

Anything But Ordinary/Cutting Line Designs/Cotton woven

In preparation for my quilted jacket (hopefully next month) this pattern seemed a possibility and the fabric was perfect!

Made a size small to pattern but added topstitching and a bias band at the neck. I like the back vent.

Custom Pants Retreat (see orange shorts in two photos above)

Vogue 7881/Robert Kaufman linen/cotton blend

Lots to learn at the couture class. Vogue pattern was very similar to the Rika/Closet Core pattern of a few months ago. Attempted shorts for my first post muslin trial.

Omitted zip front and added casing. Couture techniques most likely won’t show up in future sewing projects but it was fun to learn how.

Burda 6990, View A/Poly knit (notice the yogi print :))

Tried and true pattern. Used the crew neck version and realized you get at least two entire shirt patterns in a package. Unfortunately the yoga retreat happened before the outfit got done!

Roxanne Cargo Sweatpants/Cotton French terry

Went down two sizes in all seams except waist to give me a bit deeper crotch level. Made shorts as a muslin-added 3” to leg length!!

Used Tinley pocket pattern to get slant pockets. Great pattern!

All groups begin at 10:30

Bringing a little sewing sunshine into your rainy day!

Debbie’s Garments:

I have made this jacket before so my petite adjustments were already made along with narrow shoulder adjustment and slimming sleeve width at hem.

The darts are so small in this pattern that I eliminated them and eased in the bust fullness in the princess seam without any problem.

The fabric for the jacket raveled easily so I did partial Hong Kong finishes and serged all other seams.

The two piece sleeve and faced hem are a plus for this pattern.

I am a fan of lightweight jackets in the warm seasons du to air conditioning and this jacket will help ward off too much chill. It was a quick and easy make.

I made my standard petite adjustments on the pattern, pin basted, made more adjustments – narrow shoulder adjustment and put “darts” in neckline of paper pattern and finally cut out the pattern from my lovely fabric and did lots of basting. The neckline was too big so I made more adjustments and sewed away.

So disappointing – I could not get the neckline to fit properly.

I really liked the fabric and felt it went well with my jacket so – I cut off the original neckline and made a scoop neck instead – much more wearable for me.

I believe the problem was that I chose the wrong fabric for the pattern. My rayon has too much drape. I should have selected a more structured fabric.

I like the pattern so when I find the correct fabric I will try the pattern again.

I made this pattern last year as shown but this time I eliminated the collar/neckband and did a serger bias neck finish. I also downsized the cuff, gathered the sleeve into the cuff without a closure and eliminated the sleeve tab. I didn’t want all that fussiness for a breezy linen blouse.

I did a split hem finish with twill tape for hem at the side seams. The method I used is from Rose Glyde@thudiy22.

This was so fun for so many reasons: great fabric, easy and attractive details like the darts on the sleeve, back seams coming over to side front, oversized but not too much and quick and easy to make.

It is a cropped top so I did not do any petite adjustments.

I copied Intostitches and used the satin for casing tie instead of the main fabric.

Again so fun even though this type of garment is generally not in my wheel house!

Kristin’s Garments:

This pattern has been calling to me from my stash so gave it a try in cotton. Very well drafted, all went together well. Lots of pleats and darts but really only two pattern pieces and a facing.

Zip was needed as neck is close fitting. I would like the sweetheart neckline to be a bit bigger all around but it fits well. Sleeve pleats make wearing easy when on but a little weird getting off and on.

Fit changes-raised the waistline so it was 1” shorter overall, minimized vertical darts.

I think I’ll keep the pattern for future as it has some good features and fit well but it won’t be a go-to pattern.

More darts, please!! Three darts per leg and the knee dart is on inside leg but after the blouse, not a problem-if only I felt as good about my zippers!

Swapped out the outside pocket for an inside pocket (pattern calls for a stacked pocket!! Cool feature if you are into it. Curious to see how a curved pocket hangs as my last few pants have had a straight diagonal line for pocket opening.

Pattern has pocket facings (and hem facings) so I used them to get a nice finish and be able to have my fancy fabric right side out on my pocket so I see it. But then I held up the pants and realized I can “see” the fancy side through the pants!!! Hopefully I will not stand still and no one will notice 🙂

Waistband is almost 3” deep so I cut that down to a 1” casing. I like the pants-slimmer fit than others and fun to put together.

Pattern has been in stash and catalog pic compelled me to give it a try. Collar didn’t call for interfacing but after trying without (too flimsy) I interfaced. Top went together well.

Skirt has a lining so sewed that up first and-too tight! Called Sarah’s Fabrics in Lawrence, Kansas and got 3 more yards as there wasn’t enough to cut a second skirt.

Was very curious how the tulip shaped front skirt would hang with straight back skirt-added about 3” to back skirt. Pleated the difference in back skirt to back bodice to match the front pleats. Very happy with the skirt! Didn’t use the lining as it restricted movement and didn’t want more weight pulling bodice down. Pleasantly surprised at how it hangs on body.

Again, not a go-to pattern but the drafting was fun to work with and I love the fabric!

Workshops at Ginny’s/Rochester-3 Day Pants Fitting, June 3-5, 3 Day Hand Tailoring, June 6-8, 3 Day Couture Dressmaking, June 9-11. More info www.LoveCoutureSewing.com

Retreat for Bernina Folks-Pines and Needles in Rochester, Ultimate Sewing and Quilting Retreat. Comes highly recommended by a few of our people. August 4,5,6. https://pnqs.net/pages/the-ultimate-sewing-quilting-retreat

June 2025 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 11, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester

Thursday, June 12, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, June 14, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wow! Another great month of sewing-