We had a lovely crowd at Sewing Lounge on Saturday. Beautiful new fabric, too! We’ll be at Sew Inviting on Wednesday and Creative on Thursday-see you!!

Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater, Version1, Purple Watercolor digital print Sweatshirt fleece. High neck, semi-cropped , raglan sleeves with wide band and cuffs and loose T-neckband. This pattern requires no fit adjustments for me.

Sew House Toaster Sweater, Version 2. Green and Gray light Ponte or double knit. This version has a unique neckline, set in sleeves, fitted through bust and then slightly swings out to hem. There are side vents with a hi-low hem. The only fit adjustments I make to this pattern is shortening the length between waist and hip. Both versions are easy, quick and versatile makes. Truly a great pattern.

I like features from these two patterns so I often interchange pattern pieces and construction details. For example, I wanted contrast cuffs so I used the Simplicity pattern piece because the KS pattern doesn’t use a two piece cuff pattern piece.

Cranberry Winter Coat

I did my fitting adjustments including petiting, narrow shoulder and shortening sleeves and body length.

I used inseam pockets and bound buttonholes. (Mistake Proof Bound Buttonholes on It’s Sew Easy with Janet Pray – You Tube ).

This pattern is well drafted and the directions are excellent. Time consuming but not too difficult.

I may have added a design feature to lining hem OR I may have “camouflaged” a mistake. I also may need to redo the lining – I am going to think on that.

When we had that cold spell in August I was motivated to start this project. Then the weather got HOT and I almost put it aside for awhile. I have a hard time starting a garment and not completing it before going on to the next project so I kept on going. I’m glad I did – I am ready for winter whenever Mother Nature throws it at us!

Kristin’s Garments

Shawl Collar Jacket

This fabric was quite off grain so a slow cut but there was enough fabric. It also has cross grain stretch which makes the jacket very comfortable. The pattern is drafted for a woven fabric with no stretch.

The pattern features a cut-on neck facing but pivoting went well. Neck facings were turned under and handsewn.

Fit is nice, collar lays beautifully. Front facings are wide and pulled at front so facings were hand tacked at edges. The grain of the fabric may have had something to do with the pulling too.

Great jacket-I can see short versions and many different fabrics that would work.

Stylearc Cheryl Stretch Woven Pants in ponte

1. I wanted a cropped pant that wasn’t too wide legged. I’ve made these in stretch denim before and they are OK but the ponte works well. Goes together quickly and has very gathering at the waistband.

Love Notions Barrington Boxy Tee-tried and true boxy fit tee that draped nicely in the Eileen Fisher knit.

If no one has said, “it’s all about the fabric” somebody should! Not sure what possessed me to buy the pique (photo above) but I won’t buy any more. It’s fine but the tee looks better in the navy Eileen Fisher (photo with gray pants) as it is slippery on the inside so hangs better than the pique.

I was inspired by a blog post and just had to try the original pattern first. The pique knit had very little drape and the pattern was too big so I took it in.

The neckband is a single band of knit serged to the neck edge and rolled around to wrong side and stitched in the ditch. Nice option with a knit like the pique that hasn’t much stretch recovery.

Burda 6990 in rayon knit–better result

I was thinking all along that I should just use 6990 and tilt it out at centers front and back to get the same effect as the Makers Atelier tee. After all, I already knew it would fit around arms, etc. The rayon knit also hangs better and looks more like the inspiration photo.

November Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, Nov. 8, 10:30 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, Nov. 12, 10:30 at Sew Inviting, St. Paul

Thursday, Nov. 13, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

The common theme for Saturday seemed to have been Toaster Sweaters from Sew House Seven. Not many new ones but the tried and true, “still in my closet” garments 🙂 Debbie made one too-see next post!

We meet tomorrow, October 11, at Sewing Lounge, 10:30 am. Last chance this month 🙂

Worth the drive to Rochester to Ginny’s Fine Fabrics on Wednesday-

And then at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley-

First, the sewing that we saw at Ginny’s! A pretty full house with attendees from Texas and West Virginia 🙂

And then Debbie and Kristin’s garments:

Debbie’s Garments:

Purple Floral “Cabin Wear” Zip Jacket

This is a quick and easy topper that I have made before.

My fitting adjustments were previously made including petiting and narrow shoulder adjustment. I also narrowed the width of the collar and eliminated the pockets – too small to be of any use.

The next time I make the topper I will add a facing to center front to stabilize and improve appearance of zipper. I would also like to add side seam pockets.

Just another tee to wear under my “cabin wear” jacket.

I like this tee pattern because of the boat neck and close fitting shaping.

Instead of using the neckband facing included in the pattern, I did a serged bias neckband.

Lavender Slouchy Tee (no photo)

Neckline from Jalie Women’s Tee #2805 with Jalie Dolman Tee # 3352

Rayon/Cotton Rib Knit Jersey

Another Tee to go with my “cabin wear” jacket.

Two TNT patterns that work well with a variety of knits create different looks and can fit into capsule wardrobes easily.

This is a fail for me due to the very poor pattern instructions and my choice of fabric.

I made a quick muslin, shortening 1 inch between bust and waist and 1 inch between hip and hem. Sleeves were shortened 2 inches.

I like to make one piece welt pockets so I eliminated the pleats on the welt because I couldn’t figure out how to incorporate them – unfortunate because that detail was one reason why I wanted to make the jacket!

I wanted to believe the fabric was navy – it’s not. Therefore I had difficulty finding a contrast for the sleeves so I settled – the contrast was another reason I was drawn to the pattern!

In the back of my mind all along I knew this make was doomed. Between the pattern, instructions, lack of notches, fabric and construction details, there was little success. Failure brings growth – right?! There won’t be a next time for this jacket but I will recycle the jacquard fabric along with my leftover fabric some day but not for awhile!

This is a TNT blouse pattern mainly because it can easily be switched up to create different looks.

For this version I Changed the V-neck to a round neckline and added a seam to the center back with button closure. I also added a facing instead of a serged bias edge for the neckline.

I especially like the elastic cuffs – just a fun feature.

Kristin’s Garments:

I have had much fun wearing the navy gored skirt inspired by the same magazine so was excited to try the pleated skirt.

Linen was my first choice but as I thought about tracing a line or pulling a thread on a solid linen I saw too many opportunities for frustration. So I chose a fabric with a woven line!

The repeat of the weave gave me the three pleats I needed and in close to the same placement as the darts in the pattern. I stitched down the four lines of each pleat and then added the darts in the four pleats that were in the right place.

Then I cut out the pattern for shaping of the skirt.

The pattern has a waistband facing as does the “skirt”. I topstitched the facing at the bottom edge for the same look. I have no closure as I put skirt on over my head.

The hem took a bit as I had to rip out my pleat stitching to turn up the hem and then resew the pleat stitching but now I know how to treat hems when I pleat-just stop stitching when you get to hem area!

It’s a different look than if it was linen but I think I like the movement/crunchiness/lack of wrinkling that this fabric gives. I think the weave is also small enough to play with other prints well.

Elastic Tie Sweater from The Assembly Line (photo above), barkcloth

My inspiration was a jewel neck simple top in a bold print and this pattern has always been easy to wear so I sewed up the darts that would normally just fold softly with the eyelets and tie and cut off the front neckline. The back already has an additional neck stand so it was eliminated to get the jewel neck.

The barkcloth feels soft but frays and smooshes a bit so I stabilized the shoulder seams and used a not-very-bias binding on the neck edge. A facing may have been a better choice.

The sleeve has an elbow dart and a facing, which is nice as the barkcloth’s wrong side is a stark contrast to the printed right side of fabric.

Inspired by Everyday Style’s podcast on wearing nice things all the time I wanted to have a classic pair of pajamas but not all the fuss of a button front shirt (and I may have a little fabric that was begging to finally be used!!!)

I started with the Holiday Shirt which features a conventional collar and a sewn together center front-eliminating buttons and fuss. I thought I had made this in flannel but it was bigger and baggier than the flannel so back to the drawing board.

Which brought me to the Band Camp Shirt which has a cut on facing so I stitched it up on the center front from hem to center front opening, applied the collar, stitched the facing to neck and I’m really happy with the fit and construction and versatility of the pattern!

On to the pants-I’ve always been a fan of the baggy bum boxer and Jalie had just what I needed. I chose the pattern according to my hip and they are amazing! Long, not too baggy or wide legged and in almost every size-what more can I say! I tried them in a grandchild size and they walked away on the grandchild (after I told him he had them on backwards and his father explained the baggy bum advantage 🙂 And did I mention-the fly is squared off?? No more tight curve topstitching!

October Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, October 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester

Thursday, October 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, October 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Oh, my! The bug bit this month and we’re not quite done! Tomorrow is our meeting at Ginny’s in Rochester. It’s not too late to get into the carpool!

Next week is September’s Garment Sewing Group meetings-

September Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, September 10, Lakes Makerie, Mpls

Thursday, September 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley/Fabric Swap

Saturday, September 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester

Can’t wait to see what our change in weather has inspired!!

I’ve been trying to finish some projects in my studio-

What do you have hiding away that you can bring out in the open?

Next month’s dates and details-switching up our Saturday meeting-

July Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday July, 9, Sewing Inviting, St.Paul

Thursday, July 10, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

***Saturday, July 12, Meet up at Open Studio Sewing, 4210 Minnetonka Boulevard, St. Louis Park-grand opening!! Wear something you’ve sewn.

For just this meeting, we are going to head to the grand opening of Open Studio Sewing. Debbie and I will bring our garments and pattern review sheets for you to see but no formal meeting. Wear something you’ve made and think about what fabrics/notions you’d like to see at the new store in St. Louis Park!
Let us know if you are coming 🙂

Store opens at 11 am-maybe meet for coffee?? More details as date gets closer.

Also, The Stashery has opened at the Textile Center-a year round secondhand textile supplies store.

Fun to see the new options popping up with the closing of Joann!

Debbie’s Garments:

Style Arc Marley Shirt/Jewel Washed Linen

For fit I did my usual petiting as well as narrow shoulder adjustment and shortening body and sleeve length one inch.

Pattern does not call for interfacing the button placket but after testing a piece of scrap fabric I felt the interfacing would be a plus.

I needed to pay attention to the directions carefully since seam allowances go from 3/8” to 1/4”. I did change the order of construction to keep the garment flat as much as possible. I did get myself in trouble though – I did not hem the shirt when pattern directed and made that the last step. It was difficult to maneuver sewing in the round with such a deep hem.

This was a new pattern for me – I especially like the deep, split hem. This pattern is a keeper.

Grainline Studio Willow Tank/Rayon

This is a TNT pattern for me, especially since I have made my necessary fitting adjustments from previous makes. It is a quick and easy make.

I like the neck and armhole bias edge construction rather than facings. I use the serged bias edge method.

This pattern works well with a wide variety of fabric types, makes good use of small amounts of fabric.

Itch To Stitch Santorini Top/Cotton

I made this pattern last summer from a linen as part of a 3 piece outfit. It is a good layering piece, especially under summer toppers.

Even though it is a detailed make I knew it would go together quickly this time since I had made fitting adjustments and also that the pattern directions are excellent.

I put one buttonhole on the side panel and sewed the buttons to the opposing panel without buttonholes. – The tank can be taken on and off easily with just the one button opening.

My first make was a solid linen and the construction details are easily seen. This time with the stripe fabric the princess seams and shaping detail get lost. In retrospect I wish I would have put the stripes horizontal on the front and back side pieces.

Itch To Stitch Melrose/Rayon

Going through my fabric when picking projects this month this piece caught my eye because it went nicely with my teal makes.

I had a limited amount of yardage so pattern choices were limited. After trying to fit a few other patterns on my fabric the Melrose seemed to work the best.

It is a boxy, cropped top so the only fitting adjustment I needed to make was a narrow neckline.

I changed the order of construction by sewing one shoulder seam and then continue with a serged bias neck edge finish. I also did a split hem.

Another quick make but putting a grown on sleeve into a fitted jacket sleeve doesn’t work well. This will not be a layering piece but it does go with my color them.

New Look 6407, View A/Cotton

I made this pattern many years ago and it is a favorite. I do like the fitted style.

Due to my petite adjustments the neckline isn’t too low which is fine in warmer weather but not a style I like to wear in colder weather.

The print main fabric is a bit busy so to break it up I added a contrast fabric to collar, neck band and cuffs. It’s a little bright but I think it works.

The split cuffs are fun and a nice change from classic shirt cuffs.

Kristin’s Garments

Anything But Ordinary/Cutting Line Designs/Cotton woven

In preparation for my quilted jacket (hopefully next month) this pattern seemed a possibility and the fabric was perfect!

Made a size small to pattern but added topstitching and a bias band at the neck. I like the back vent.

Custom Pants Retreat (see orange shorts in two photos above)

Vogue 7881/Robert Kaufman linen/cotton blend

Lots to learn at the couture class. Vogue pattern was very similar to the Rika/Closet Core pattern of a few months ago. Attempted shorts for my first post muslin trial.

Omitted zip front and added casing. Couture techniques most likely won’t show up in future sewing projects but it was fun to learn how.

Burda 6990, View A/Poly knit (notice the yogi print :))

Tried and true pattern. Used the crew neck version and realized you get at least two entire shirt patterns in a package. Unfortunately the yoga retreat happened before the outfit got done!

Roxanne Cargo Sweatpants/Cotton French terry

Went down two sizes in all seams except waist to give me a bit deeper crotch level. Made shorts as a muslin-added 3” to leg length!!

Used Tinley pocket pattern to get slant pockets. Great pattern!

All groups begin at 10:30