Several calendar conflicts have us meeting later than usual in August:
Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
We hope your calendar allows you to make it to one or two of them!
AND-it looks like July got away from me and I didn’t get any pictures posted so here they are. If you want any more info on patterns used, send me an email.
These are photos from July meetings, I’ll post more tomorrow-
Vogue 1470Patterns for Pirates LumberjacketSimplicity 9472True Bias Mave SkirtFlowers pounded on fabricNew Look 6431
First up is Saturday’s Sew and Tell at Ginny’s. Keep scrolling down for Debbie and Kristin’s garments-
Cindy Jean Jacket StylearcMcCalls 7975-blue/Puff and Pencil-tie waist blouse-greenIslander Express TeeEureka Top Sewing WorkshopFrankie Shirt Sewing WorkshopLB Top Paper TheoryRemy Top Sew House Seven
Debbie’s Garments:
Vogue 1644 Jacket/textured cotton
1. Fitting adjustments include petiting between shoulder and bust and removing bust dart. The jacket is short in length so next time I may lengthen at the hem. Also the sleeve is too wide at hem – I need to remember to narrow width from elbow to hem next time.
2. I lined the sleeves and used bias strips to bind facing edges.
3. This is a fun and easy make – lots of versatility. I have a secret message inside that makes it more fun to wear. * Blouse is Kwik Sew Classic Shirt 3555 from 100% Cotton in 2023.
Burda 6114/See You at Six French terry
1. I did my usual petite adjustments and shortened the length of the sleeves. I cut the collar height 2 1/2” less than pattern piece.
2. I like this pattern and I will make it again. Because the fabric is not typical of athletic type garments it fits in with my more casual lifestyle. Next time I would make the pocket bag larger and insert it between front and back side seam. I would also add a fabric strip of facing along zipper and center fronts. * Tee is the Laundry Day Tee by Love Notions from 2023.
Burda 6533/viscose poplin stretch/Debbie
1. For fitting adjustments I petited between the shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment and shortened hem length by 1 inch.
2. This pattern is fairly easy, however shawl collars can be a little tricky obtaining the perfect roll line. I need to work on that if I make it again.
3. I am not a fan of the curve hem – I had some issues with vertical pulling. * Pants are Jalie Vanessa made from light weight textured cotton. TNT pattern for me!
Kristin’s Garments:
Closet Core Jenna/cotton
1. I have really wanted to make some of the “over-sized shirt” patterns the the designers have been coming up with-how are they different/same, etc. I made the size suggested for a 38” bust and made no sizing changes at hip or elsewhere.
2. Foldover front placket to wrong side.
3. Burrito roll is used for yoke-attaching at yoke seam, then shoulders. Suggests topstitching through only the right side and seam allowances instead of ws/rs/seam allowances eliminating some of the puckering and/or allowing for no topstitching showing on rs for a more polished look.
4. Features a separate under and outer collar piece. Great instructions-collar stand is attached first and then mini burrito roll for collar stand ends.
5. Tower placket and bias strip instructions for sleeve vent. I chose tower and need to practice a bit but then Debbie sent me this link https://pin.it/7D7g03Tfb Not sure if it will come through but it’s one of those great Japanese speedy tricks that I must master!
6. Cuff also included burrito roll suggestion at ends.
7. Shoulder width came out close to Maker’s Atelier version. Yoke is deeper than Maker’s.
8. Jenna also has a hanging loop attached in the yoke seam and a side hem gusset. Unless I read instructions incorrectly, I’d make a few changes to the angle of the gusset.
9. Truly a boyfriend shirt.
The Maker’s Atelier “The Atelier Shirt”Pleated version/Italian shirting cotton
1. Again I made the size for a 38” bust with no fit alterations. Yoke is attached at shoulders first, then yoke seam.
2. Foldover front placket to right side-oops don’t use two sided fabric! But gives you the folded edge on outside.
3. Collar is attached same as Jenna Shirt but instructions aren’t quite as well done. Only one collar piece.
4. Instructions for bias strip cuff vent and a box version of the tower placket-again, not quite as well explained as Jenna but certainly adequate.
5. Back yoke is more shallow than Jenna but shoulder width very similar.
6. I love the pleated back-stitched all of them down-knew I’d never get them pressed that way again.
7. Love the style variations of this shirt and the written descriptions that have me making the gathered version next in gauzy cotton…
8. Next up on my shirt adventures-The Assembly Line Oversized Shirt!
Burda 6533/seersucker/Kristin
1. Another feature we’re seeing-the shawl collar-seems to go in and out of popularity.
2. I’d agree with Debbie on all points.
3. Sleeveless version didn’t have a separate cut to the armhole and seems to have worked out well.
4. Learned or at least was exposed to the difficulty of curved edges with lined fabric-poor turning skills are accentuated!
July Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, July 10, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, July 11, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, July 13, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
1. The design features on this jacket caught my eye. It has a front and back yoke, inverted pleat, hidden button placket, inverted flap on sleeves and a hefty hem.
2. I did my necessary shortening fit adjustments as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. The pattern instructions are clear but concise. However, top stitching widths were not consistent so I needed to pay attention or just do my own thing!
4. I would make this jacket again with a few changes, such as lengthening and lining the sleeves.
Itch To Stitch Islares Top/Avalana Sutton spandex jersey
1. Besides my standard fitting adjustments I decreased the front and back neck width by putting in a dart on the paper pattern before cutting out fabric.
2. I enjoy using Itch To Stitch patterns. The fit, directions, and illustrations are great for beginners and seasoned sewists!
Lined Summer Vest, Butterick 6745, View C
Main fabric is cotton, lining is Liberty of London
1. I shortened the length between the shoulder and bust by 1/4 inch. I am thinking I should have used 3/8 to 1/2 inch for that shortening task.
2. I chose to topstitch entire vest – that tends to keep the lining from peeking out.
3. Not a quick make – you basically make two vests and then do lots of burrito methods to construct lining – patience is necessary.
4. Pants are the Jalie Vanessa made last year from same fabric as vest.
Cream/Camel Stripe Tee/Love Notions Classic Tee in French terry
1. This is a TNT pattern, especially for warmer months when I want a more relaxed fit but not oversized.
2. As always I did my shortening adjustments and did a shirt tail hem. I also added cuffs to the sleeves because I did not have enough fabric to make a 3/4 sleeve length.
3. Fun and easy make with lots of versatility. Also the fabric doesn’t have a lot of stretch but it is yummy to work with and wear.
June Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, June 12, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, June 13, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, June 15, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester
Kristin’s Garments:
Itch to Stitch Islares Top in cotton spandex knit
1. Great directions and drafting. Widened at hips and took in the shoulder dart for a less sloped shoulder.
2. All neck edges and facing are interfaced per pattern.
Jalie Marie Claude hoodie/Activewear knit
1. I’ve made the pattern before but not the hoodie. As I was folding the cuff to sew, I realized how little stretch the fabric had!! Assumptions always get me in trouble! So it’s a bit more close fitting than I was thinking but a perfect solution.
Love Notions Tinley Skort/nylon woven for skirt/mesh for biker shorts
1. New pattern from Love Notions. Made for knits or wovens-just size up or down.
2. Went together well. I didn’t put the elastic in channels, just used 1.5” elastic. Length is to pattern. She has a 3” gap between sizes so I took in the back after trying on.
3. Had to try the mesh for the biker shorts. Added a hem band to leg to lengthen and stretch better. Much cooler and lighter in weight than other options. But I’d have to do a test run before endorsing wholeheartedly 🙂
Arare Pullover by Waffle Patterns/nylon woven
1. After last month’s experience with the Work Shirt I sized up 3 sizes as I wanted a loose fit. I kept the shaping in side seams and center back.
2. Great details in the front zip-guard at the top and tab at the bottom. Lots of pocket options again but I chose the kangaroo but made it smaller for my cell phone. Great pocket with flap.
3. Happy with sizing. Pattern calls for drawstrings at hem but I omitted. I’d make this again!
Burda 6146/Stretch woven rayon
1. Love the fabric but it is very stretchy-which is good-and sometimes difficult to manipulate. So I chose a more simple woven pattern that would take advantage of the stretch across the back. I have made the view with the ruffled neck and heard that the vee neck was great.
2. I agree! The vee is modest and the wide elastic gathered cuff band is perfect. Can’t wait to make more of these!
April meetings for Garment Sewing Group have begun-Thursday’s meeting was at Creative Sewing. Saturday we meet at Lakes Makerie and Wednesday at Sewing Lounge. Hope you can come!!
Sewing Lounge’s sale runs through Saturday, April 13!
Combined Jalie #2805 T-Shirts with Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops/Art Gallery cotton jersey knit with spandex
1. To get the Monroe Turtleneck look I combined the neckline of the turtleneck with the body and sleeves of the Dolman. It was an easy hack, quick and fun to sew. A win-win.
VickiSews Abbie Jacket/Plush boucle fleece
1. Fitting adjustments include shortening front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust and shortening sleeve lengths. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed sleeves at hem and cut collar size down by 3/8 inch all around.
2. I did interface the collar, shoulder seams and center fronts and hems. Because I did not line the jacket I did not interface the dart tips.
3. I omitted the pockets also because I did not line the jacket.
4. It is a fun pattern with very good illustrated instructions. If I make it again I would use wool or a boucle.
Elsi Tee from Bernina Inspiration Magazine/Cotton spandex jersey Avalana
1. I love a boat neck tee. The neck on this tee is unique so I had to give it a try.
2. After trying to decipher the printed pattern included in the magazine I decided to trace the neckline pattern pieces only and used them as a template on my favorite tee shirt pattern (Butterick 6848.)
3. The instructions are vague and it seemed just wrong to construct the neckband using the pattern pieces the pattern supplies. Instead I cut a 2 and 1/2 inch strip for the front neckband and did the same for back neckline cutting that strip about 2 inches shorter than front neckband. I quartered the neckline, overlapped the front band over the back band at the shoulder seams and quartered the neckband. Matching the quarters I basted the band to the neckline. Once the band was basted and I was satisfied with the result I went on to complete the tee shirt easily.
4. The magazine is similar to the Burda magazine. Great for Inspiration but not so much for construction.
Itch to Stitch Nussle Joggers/Viscose, nylon and spandex ponte
1. This is a TNT (Tried and True) pattern for me. It is easy to construct, directions are excellent and works well with many types of knits.
April Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, April 11, 10:30, Creative Sewing Apple Valley
Saturday, April 13, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
*Wednesday, April 17, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
*Please note – this is the 3rd Wednesday of the month-not the second Wednesday that we usually schedule
Kristin’s Garments:
Burda 6059/Green activewear knit
1. Thought it might be a nice boxy fit tee but not so much-wider neckline, wider shoulder but not quite drop.
2. Folded the balloon sleeve down to normal sleeve.
3. Neck edge was supposed to be turned under and stitched-no band. I added band and it stood up a bit-not small enough but also doesn’t choke 🙂
4. Fine pattern, just doesn’t earn a spot in my permanent collection.
Monroe Turtleneck/Tessuti (free pattern)/Heavier gray knit Monroe in Art Gallery stripe knit
1. “Somebody” said it was their favorite turtleneck-looser fitting-so I had to try.
2. Shortened and widened turtleneck and widened sleeve and armhole. Also tried the size 2 vs. size 3 body.
3. Sleeves are quite narrow, even in the Art Gallery knit.
4. After 3 tries I’m going back to “my” favorite turtleneck 🙂
La Veste/Atelier Brunette/Wool blend
1. Originally my muslin, but over time (and experience), I realized that the wide wale corduroy I had intended for the final garment wouldn’t be appropriate so carried on and made wool version my final.
2. Shortened the jacket and sleeves by 1 inch. Otherwise made to pattern with a few detours along the way.
3. The front and back yoke are one piece so the front yoke is on the bias. If I were to make again, I would try with the back on bias instead as the front stretched a bit and wouldn’t I rather have that in the back?
4. The other endearing feature of the pattern is the vents on sleeve and bottom hem. The technique, however, is what would be difficult on a thick fabric. It looks good in the drawing but doesn’t really show up when worn-for all the work that it took. Maybe deepen the hems/vents to 3”?
5. Otherwise the drafting was great, everything went together well. I shortened the body of the longer version by 2” and sleeve by 1”.
Cheryl Stretch Pant/StyleArc/Stretch woven cotton
1. Looking for a straight leg pattern but so many are soooo wide. Maybe what I want should be called relaxed leg? These are 20” at the hem-size 18.
2. Simple back dart and fold over elastic waist. I went up one size as I was in middle but may try down size also.
3. They are called a 7/8 length. I cut to pattern but lengthened at hem 1”.
Material Girl Sewing 