August 2024-Debbie and Kristin’s Garments

Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Glissando Pants-hemp denim and Jalie Dolman #3352-french terry and cotton knit

1. I wanted these pants to be a wearable muslin so I did a few length adjustments between hips and knee and knee and hem. 

2. I chose to do a zipper fly instead of a button fly. Lifting Pins and Needles and TomKat Stitchery have instruction videos on YouTube that are very helpful explaining this technique.

3. The side seams between the waist and hip are very curvy. If I sew this pattern again I would make an adjustment to straighten out those seams.

4. I was concerned about the contour waist band being too wide but once finished I am pleased at where it sits on my waist.

5. I enjoyed the construction process of this pattern. It was fun to use a contrast fabric for pocket bag and zipper extension and add bias tape to waistband edge.

• Wearing my Jalie TNT pattern – Womens Tops 3352 with French terry for body and cotton jersey for sleeves and band.

McCalls 7360, View A modified-cotton poplin

1. I did my basic petiting techniques regarding fit adjustments. 

2. I squared off the neckband edge at center front of collar band and also eliminated the chest pocket.

3. The pattern does have a lined yoke but does not use the burrito method to construct – but I did.

4. I used the black and white stripe for placket trim, cuffs and inside collar band.  

5. I need to remember that I prefer collared shirts and full button downs most often!

New Look 6483, View E-rayon

1. This is a TNT pattern for me but this time I tried the couture method of bagging lining to neckband and sleeves. 

2. The method works well but I found under stitching the armholes a challenge. It’s always good to try something new.

Kristin’s Garments:

New Look 6340, 6125, 6500

Left to right: New Look 6340, 6125, 6500-linen with cotton lining

Linen with cotton lining

1. Simple, darted, A-line patterns with varying amounts of flare. They are listed above from most flare to least flare.

Kristin’s Garments, cont.

2. Facings come with the patterns but I wanted them lined for ease of wearing in summer.

3. I used the same couture technique as Debbie. Interfacing the stitching line at neck is a good idea. Also topstitching, depending on the weight of fabrics.

4. The link for the lining bagging technique: https://www.sewinglikemad.com/2020/08/tutorial-bagging-method-for-lining-of.html?m=1

Swing Summer Top

Burda 6541-voile outside, rayon underlayer

1. My favorite pattern in this style is the Willow Tank by Grainline Studio. But the Burda pattern had no bust dart making it a bit quicker to stitch up.

2. I like the two layered option so gave it a try. Using the lining method as above was a bit trickier as the under layer needed to be right side to wrong side of outer layer.

3. In the end, I think the bust dart is worth the time 🙂

Maker’s Atelier The Shirt-various gauze weaves

1. This is the second version I have made of this pattern. I had to use the gauzes from Lakes Makerie and thought this might be the perfect pattern.

2. Some of the lines on pattern pieces disappeared when I projected them and eliminated layers. Hopefully that has been fixed.

3. The website gave instructions for a shirt tail hem so I did that instead of straight across.

4. Sleeve placket is bound but not with bias-see sample. Here’s the link for Workroom Social YouTube: https://youtu.be/odyOtcOpFLw?si=lweNjdduc_mTzOSJ

Travertine Tank/Closet Core Crew Patterns-cotton interlock and Twig Pant Stylearc-tencel

Cotton interlock

1. Pattern had much negative ease so instead of a size 12 I made a 20. Still not quite enough for hips but good at bust.

2. Armholes were too big so binding had to rein them in! May try again as I like the look.

Twig Pants from Stylearc (see pic above)

1. Diane made these last month so I had to try them as I love my Barry Pants (also from StyleArc but just front and back pieces and a few small darts-narrower than Twig and Bob).

2. Omitted pocket and front fly. Supposed to be flat front but I left the elastic in the front as a reinforcement and I think I like that. The opening is big enough to get over hips.

3. A fun pair of pants! Pattern calls for denim and twill-might be a bit stiff?

September 2024 Garment Sewing Dates:

Wednesday, September 11, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, September 12, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, September 14, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester

Catching up from July

Just a reminder of August Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

And now, more pics from last month’s meetings-

Closet Core Elodie
StyleArc Jema Dress
LIGHTED Twirly Skirt
Bianca Flight Suit Closet Core
New Look 6296 back view
Hovea Jacket Megan Nielsen
Matchy Matchy Puff Blouse and Carolyn Pajama Top/Closet Core
StyleArc Jules
Easy. Ageless. Cool. Cutting Line Designs
Burda 7045 Men’s Shirt

August Meetings start Thursday-

Several calendar conflicts have us meeting later than usual in August:

Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

We hope your calendar allows you to make it to one or two of them!

AND-it looks like July got away from me and I didn’t get any pictures posted so here they are. If you want any more info on patterns used, send me an email.

These are photos from July meetings, I’ll post more tomorrow-

Vogue 1470
Patterns for Pirates Lumberjacket
Simplicity 9472
True Bias Mave Skirt
Flowers pounded on fabric
New Look 6431

Garment Sewing Group This Week

Hope to see you!! All meetings start at 10:30 am.

Wednesday, July 10 at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul

Thursday, July 11 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley-and fabric swap

Saturday, July 13 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

And if you’d like to make a day of it on Saturday-

Saturday, July 13, 1-4 pm Becky’s Buttons Open House at Lakes Makerie

Garment Sewing Group, lunch and buttons! What a Saturday!!

Our fearless travel reporter sent these notes:

Textile Center Garage Sale for September has been set.  September 13 – 15, 2024.   Proceeds to a good cause. 

Sewing and Stitch Expo in Puyallup, WA 2025, February 26 – March 2. My source says hotels are filling up quickly!

Stitch Festival in London March 20-23rd, 2025. I’ve been drooling over this event for years in the Selvage magazine-anyone want to go!!

June 2024 Garment Sewing Group -Final

First up is Saturday’s Sew and Tell at Ginny’s. Keep scrolling down for Debbie and Kristin’s garments-

Cindy Jean Jacket Stylearc
McCalls 7975-blue/Puff and Pencil-tie waist blouse-green
Islander Express Tee
Eureka Top Sewing Workshop
Frankie Shirt Sewing Workshop
LB Top Paper Theory
Remy Top Sew House Seven

Debbie’s Garments:

Vogue 1644 Jacket/textured cotton

1. Fitting adjustments include petiting between shoulder and bust and removing bust dart. The jacket is short in length so next time I may lengthen at the hem. Also the sleeve is too wide at hem – I need to remember to narrow width from elbow to hem next time.

2. I lined the sleeves and used bias strips to bind facing edges.

3. This is a fun and easy make – lots of versatility. I have a secret message inside that makes it more fun to wear. * Blouse is Kwik Sew Classic Shirt 3555 from 100% Cotton in 2023.

Burda 6114/See You at Six French terry

1. I did my usual petite adjustments and shortened the length of the sleeves. I cut the collar height 2 1/2” less than pattern piece.

2. I like this pattern and I will make it again. Because the fabric is not typical of athletic type garments it fits in with my more casual lifestyle. Next time I would make the pocket bag larger and insert it between front and back side seam. I would also add a fabric strip of facing along zipper and center fronts. * Tee is the Laundry Day Tee by Love Notions from 2023.

Burda 6533/viscose poplin stretch/Debbie

1. For fitting adjustments I petited between the shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment and shortened hem length by 1 inch.

2. This pattern is fairly easy, however shawl collars can be a little tricky obtaining the perfect roll line. I need to work on that if I make it again.

3. I am not a fan of the curve hem – I had some issues with vertical pulling. * Pants are Jalie Vanessa made from light weight textured cotton. TNT pattern for me!

Kristin’s Garments:

Closet Core Jenna/cotton

1. I have really wanted to make some of the “over-sized shirt” patterns the the designers have been coming up with-how are they different/same, etc. I made the size suggested for a 38” bust and made no sizing changes at hip or elsewhere.

2. Foldover front placket to wrong side.

3. Burrito roll is used for yoke-attaching at yoke seam, then shoulders. Suggests topstitching through only the right side and seam allowances instead of ws/rs/seam allowances eliminating some of the puckering and/or allowing for no topstitching showing on rs for a more polished look.

4. Features a separate under and outer collar piece. Great instructions-collar stand is attached first and then mini burrito roll for collar stand ends.

5. Tower placket and bias strip instructions for sleeve vent. I chose tower and need to practice a bit but then Debbie sent me this link https://pin.it/7D7g03Tfb Not sure if it will come through but it’s one of those great Japanese speedy tricks that I must master!

6. Cuff also included burrito roll suggestion at ends.

7. Shoulder width came out close to Maker’s Atelier version. Yoke is deeper than Maker’s.

8. Jenna also has a hanging loop attached in the yoke seam and a side hem gusset. Unless I read instructions incorrectly, I’d make a few changes to the angle of the gusset.

9. Truly a boyfriend shirt.

The Maker’s Atelier “The Atelier Shirt”
Pleated version/Italian shirting cotton

1. Again I made the size for a 38” bust with no fit alterations. Yoke is attached at shoulders first, then yoke seam.

2. Foldover front placket to right side-oops don’t use two sided fabric! But gives you the folded edge on outside.

3. Collar is attached same as Jenna Shirt but instructions aren’t quite as well done. Only one collar piece.

4. Instructions for bias strip cuff vent and a box version of the tower placket-again, not quite as well explained as Jenna but certainly adequate.

5. Back yoke is more shallow than Jenna but shoulder width very similar.

6. I love the pleated back-stitched all of them down-knew I’d never get them pressed that way again.

7. Love the style variations of this shirt and the written descriptions that have me making the gathered version next in gauzy cotton…

8. Next up on my shirt adventures-The Assembly Line Oversized Shirt!

Burda 6533/seersucker/Kristin

1. Another feature we’re seeing-the shawl collar-seems to go in and out of popularity.

2. I’d agree with Debbie on all points.

3. Sleeveless version didn’t have a separate cut to the armhole and seems to have worked out well.

4. Learned or at least was exposed to the difficulty of curved edges with lined fabric-poor turning skills are accentuated!

July Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, July 10, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, July 11, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, July 13, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

June Sewing

Last chance for June makes is Saturday (6/15) at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester at 10:30. Contact me for carpooling-

Here are pics from Wednesday/Thursday-

Jutland Pants/Thread Theory-Bernie recommends welt pocket instructions from Threads Winter 2022 #220 (by Mainely Menswear) and Singer Sewing Pants That Fit
Grodin Winsome Robe-local designer carried by Lakes Makerie
Love Notions Octave Coat
George and Ginger Vista Top and Helen’s Closet Arden Pant
Love Notions Rhapsody and Ballad Blouse and Closet Core Pietra Pant
Itch to Stitch Algarve Top
Vintage Issey Miyake Vogue 1476
Mocha Lillie Top
Embellishing Butterick 6874
Matchy Matchy Recess Pant
McCalls 7635
Seamwork Willis Shirt
Pattern Apothecary Astro Tee and Studio Rosato Wrap Top
Love Notions Cadence Top
Closet Core Crew Marble Shell Top
Machine Embroidery Extraordinaire! Creative Sewing manager, Tracy
Named Helmi Trench Blouse and Dress
Sew House Seven Moon Booties

June meetings are here!

Garment Sewing Group meetings begin this week-

Wed., June 12-Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, June 13-Creative Sewing, Apple Valley (and fabric swap!)

Saturday, June 15-Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester

Jalie Marie Claude

You won’t see these at our Garment Sewing Group Meetings…

Because they’re already being worn by the birthday girls!

Pony tail holes and all!

May Garment Sewing Group/Debbie and Kristin

Debbie’s Garments:

Style Arc Smith Woven Jacket/100% textured cotton

1. The design features on this jacket caught my eye. It has a front and back yoke, inverted pleat, hidden button placket, inverted flap on sleeves and a hefty hem.

2. I did my necessary shortening fit adjustments as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. The pattern instructions are clear but concise. However, top stitching widths were not consistent so I needed to pay attention or just do my own thing!

4. I would make this jacket again with a few changes, such as lengthening and lining the sleeves.

Itch To Stitch Islares Top/Avalana Sutton spandex jersey

1. Besides my standard fitting adjustments I decreased the front and back neck width by putting in a dart on the paper pattern before cutting out fabric.

2. I enjoy using Itch To Stitch patterns. The fit, directions, and illustrations are great for beginners and seasoned sewists!

Lined Summer Vest, Butterick 6745, View C

Main fabric is cotton, lining is Liberty of London

1. I shortened the length between the shoulder and bust by 1/4 inch. I am thinking I should have used 3/8 to 1/2 inch for that shortening task.

2. I chose to topstitch entire vest – that tends to keep the lining from peeking out.

3. Not a quick make – you basically make two vests and then do lots of burrito methods to construct lining – patience is necessary.

4. Pants are the Jalie Vanessa made last year from same fabric as vest.

Cream/Camel Stripe Tee/Love Notions Classic Tee in French terry

1. This is a TNT pattern, especially for warmer months when I want a more relaxed fit but not oversized.

2. As always I did my shortening adjustments and did a shirt tail hem. I also added cuffs to the sleeves because I did not have enough fabric to make a 3/4 sleeve length.

3. Fun and easy make with lots of versatility. Also the fabric doesn’t have a lot of stretch but it is yummy to work with and wear.

June Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 12, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, June 13, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, June 15, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester

Kristin’s Garments:

Itch to Stitch Islares Top in cotton spandex knit

1. Great directions and drafting. Widened at hips and took in the shoulder dart for a less sloped shoulder.

2. All neck edges and facing are interfaced per pattern.

Jalie Marie Claude hoodie/Activewear knit

1. I’ve made the pattern before but not the hoodie. As I was folding the cuff to sew, I realized how little stretch the fabric had!! Assumptions always get me in trouble! So it’s a bit more close fitting than I was thinking but a perfect solution.

Love Notions Tinley Skort/nylon woven for skirt/mesh for biker shorts

1. New pattern from Love Notions. Made for knits or wovens-just size up or down.

2. Went together well. I didn’t put the elastic in channels, just used 1.5” elastic. Length is to pattern. She has a 3” gap between sizes so I took in the back after trying on.

3. Had to try the mesh for the biker shorts. Added a hem band to leg to lengthen and stretch better. Much cooler and lighter in weight than other options. But I’d have to do a test run before endorsing wholeheartedly 🙂

Arare Pullover by Waffle Patterns/nylon woven

1. After last month’s experience with the Work Shirt I sized up 3 sizes as I wanted a loose fit. I kept the shaping in side seams and center back.

2. Great details in the front zip-guard at the top and tab at the bottom. Lots of pocket options again but I chose the kangaroo but made it smaller for my cell phone. Great pocket with flap.

3. Happy with sizing. Pattern calls for drawstrings at hem but I omitted. I’d make this again!

Burda 6146/Stretch woven rayon

1. Love the fabric but it is very stretchy-which is good-and sometimes difficult to manipulate. So I chose a more simple woven pattern that would take advantage of the stretch across the back. I have made the view with the ruffled neck and heard that the vee neck was great.

2. I agree! The vee is modest and the wide elastic gathered cuff band is perfect. Can’t wait to make more of these!

Thursday’s Makes

April meetings for Garment Sewing Group have begun-Thursday’s meeting was at Creative Sewing. Saturday we meet at Lakes Makerie and Wednesday at Sewing Lounge. Hope you can come!!

Sewing Lounge’s sale runs through Saturday, April 13!

Modified Marceau Top/Sewing Workshop
Sinclair Patterns/Journey Raglan Hoodie
Sinclair Patterns/Journey Raglan Hoodie
Burda 5855
Favorite tee in waffle knit
Sewing Workshop/Hudson Top
Friday Pattern Company/Ilford Jacket and Stylearc/Cheryl Stretch Woven Pant
Love Notions/Crescendo Jeans
McCalls 7948
Paper Theory/Olya Shirt
Olya Shirt Sleeve Detail