May Garment Sewing Group

Garment Sewing Group

May 2021

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Peach Jacket

Liesl + Co Yanaka

Japanese Cotton/Bemberg underlining/lining

1. Did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust. Did not do any other shortening – it is a crop jacket and I did not want it any shorter than pictured.

2. The jacket is unlined which I don’t mind because I usually line the sleeves for easy on and off. However, due to the sleeve design I could not line just the sleeves. So I made a muslin from lining, checked fit and made adjustments and then lined the entire jacket by stitching the rs of lining to rs of jacket except at jacket hem.

3. The jacket has faced hems so it was easy to baste lining to jacket at hems and then add the facing.  I had to think out construction steps carefully to get my desired finish. A jacket without lined sleeves does not work for me.

4. The lining hides the seams and I had fun binding the facing with contrast stripe.

5. I like the pattern. The directions are clear and isn’t a difficult make at all, especially if you do not care about lining.

Peach Stripe Tee (pictured above under jacket

Art Gallery Jersey Knit ( very off grain) made from my TNT, McCalls 6964

Large Floral Periwinkle Wrap Skirt

Cotton sateen with Bemberg lining

Simplicity 8699, View C, lengthened

1. I liked the contour waistband on this skirt so I thought I would give it a try. It is an unlined skirt so once again I needed to make some changes in construction.

2. I constructed the skirt, cutoff facing of lining leaving seam allowance and stitched the lining to the skirt rst at wrap facing edges.

3. Then I basted the lining to the skirt at waist and added the waistband. I think it worked out well.

4.The pattern calls for two buttons at wrap but I added a third. I also had fun adding bias trim to waistband facing.

Periwinkle Short Sleeve Turtleneck (pictured above)

Cotton/Spandex jersey knit

TNT Jalie T-Shirts Pattern 2805

Light Weight Joggers

Denim

Jalie Vanessa Pants

1. This is my second make from this pattern. I went down a size and added cuffs with elastic.

2.My first pair was made with a light weight  linen blend , no cuffs.

3. Between the two pairs and the fit adjustments I have made a third pair would be perfect – I think!

Indigo Leaves Top (pictured above)

Rayon jersey

Jalie 2682 Women’s tops

This is a favorite pattern. I am finding this time of year I want my neck to be warm so this Tee and the short sleeve Turtleneck meet my needs as we move from spring to summer.

Kristin’s Garments

Vanessa Fluid Pant by Jalie—Black linen/activewear knit

1. Added length, swapped waistband and ankle cuffs for Hudson Pant pattern pieces and cut from knit.

2. Eliminated elastic from ankle cuffs as activewear knit gathered linen.

3. Linen is definitely bulkier at the waist with the gathering but great for the pattern design.

Spring Green Jacket

Metra Blazer from Love Notions

Activewear knit with fleece on wrong side

1. This is similar to Debbie’s Morris Blazer/Grainline Studios. Princess seams on front and side seam goes toward back so almost not a “side” seam. Longer than Morris with collar options.

2. Great directions and drafting. Marking lines blur sometimes. Full bust option.

3. Pocket welt is clever and easy to insert.

4. Front lapel is applied with burrito roll so very clean interior.

5. Love the Love Notions instructions-clear, beautifully laid out and very well organized-links to tutorials that I watched for the welt and burrito roll/shoulders.

6. Lapels lie flat, fabric may be not the best but it is a nice alternative to a zip fleece!

The Top That Every Pattern Company Makes

Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch

Linen, rayon and chambray

1. Itch to Stitch has a large size range and cup sizes so I wanted to test the pattern in different sizes and fabrics before jumping in and using for class.

2. The instructions are very old school so I ignored them and applied the bands with my serger and topstitched the seam allowances toward the body of garment.

3. Pattern is well drafted-sleeves are nicely narrow/no bra view under arm. The neck could be a bit smaller, depending on the fabric you use. Band seemed to be a bit smaller than bottom of garment so I would cut band larger next time so I can accommodate as needed.

4. Bust dart for C+ cup sizes needs to point up-not much room under arm to move up.

5. Added a few touches-machine embroidery on chambray and bias binding on linen.

Garnet Hill PJ Pants

Tranquil Pajamas/Love Notions

Art Gallery cotton knit/linen binding

1. I’ve been ripping this pajama style out of the catalog for years!! The Love Notions pattern is exactly what I needed.

2. Pants are one seam and fit spot on-except for the peak of the center back seam but that is easily cut down.

3. The tulip detail takes a little time-the detail piece is topstitched on but could easily be sewn into the seam-but that’s what makes them special.

4. I think I have a new favorite pattern company!! And they are on sale till May 10-40% off!!

New pattern printing company-Sublime Grafx

1. Print patterns in tissue, light white paper or regular heavier white paper.

2. Patterns are printed in color if the file is in color-no extra charge.

3. Flat fee for printing no matter how many pages-$10, $8 and $6 per pattern.

4. There was an email or two between us to get it sorted but they were very nice and I love my tissue patterns!

5. I learned from ordering both from Sublime Grafx and Pattern Review that if you want all sizes you need to tell them. They are saving trees and assume you are making only one size.

June Garment Sewing Group Zoom /Live? We will keep you posted!

Tuesday, June 8, 10:30 Thursday, June 10, 10:30 Saturday, June 12, 10:30

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