February Inspiration

Here’s what we saw at last month’s meetings-and BTW-March meetings begin next week!

Wednesday, March 5, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, March 6, 10:30, at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, March 8, 10:30, at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

I’ll try to get to the surveys very soon-if you didn’t get to fill one out and would like to, let me know.

Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop embellished with buttons
StyleArc Logan with a history 🙂
Karen, one of the winners of Coat Challenge! Simplicity 8797
First, her great smile!
And then the coat! I couldn’t get both in one pic! Butterick 6793
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven
Anne Klein Vintage Vogue 2759
OOP Simplicity Skirt and wearing RTW copy plaid shirt
Pica Vest/Wardrobe by Me in corduroy
Jalie Nico in merino wool
Sew Over It Coco Jacket
Willow Wrap Dress/Love Notions and Blackwood Cardigan/Helen’s Closet

February Garment Sewing Group-Debbie and Kristin

Debbie’s Garments:

McCalls 8064, Spandex Ponte knit

1. A TNT pattern that is quick and easy with lots of options for necklines, sleeves and length.

2. Standard fit adjustments for me include shortening between shoulder and bust, bust and waist and waist and hip as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment. I have built the adjustments into the pattern which makes it easy for me to sew it up fast.

3. To step the dress up a notch I made front and back neck facings instead of using a neckband. I also added a pleat detail where the sleeve meets the cuff.

4. I plan on wearing the dress in the cooler months – therefore I wish I would have lengthened back at neck-the unadjusted neckline is one and one half inches below the the neck base. BRRR!

Galicia Top by Itch To Stitch Patterns, 100% rayon
Button detail down the back

1. This is my second make of this pattern. My first make was my “muslin” made from a basic cotton. The cotton version is more structured and requires more care than I like.

2. For the second make I tweaked the fit, and made just the top button function on the back placket. It is easy to put on the top without the other buttons working.

3. I like the pattern, especially with the “exit interest”. It is a nice change from a classic shirt. The fabric is one of my favorites to sew.

Burda 6533, Hacked! in quilted nylon

*Apologies – some of you may have seen this garment at January GSG

1. I had difficulty finding a pattern for a quilted jacket that wasn’t oversized or drop shoulder.

2. Looking through my patterns I came across the Burda blouse pattern that I used last year. It had the details I wanted in the quilted jacket so I thought why not give it a try.

3. The changes I made include keeping the bust darts but eliminating all vertical darts, trimmed facing to fit neck edge and serged as much as possible using 1/4 seams.

4. I had thought about using single edge bias trim to finish edges without facings, or add bias to wrong side and topstitch to rs but in the end I made it as simple as possible without any closures.

5. I am happy with this unexpected make and will wear it often.

Jalie 2805, Breton stripe rib jersey

1. Another TNT pattern that I use often.

2. The only change I made was to add cuffs to the sleeve.

3. I love stripes and was excited to sew this quality fabric. However it was a little disappointing even though the stripes are knit in, not printed. I needed to “pull” the fabric to get the stripes to line up. I wasn’t very successful at the hemline though.

Kristin’s Garments:

Evanston Vest by Love Notions, bulky wool knit

1. This is a new pattern from Love Notions and almost exactly what I was looking for. First version is in a heavier rib knit/fleece made to pattern.

Same Evanston Vest but much finer wool and no sleeve or hem band

2. There is fit shaping at the waist and the armhole bands made it a bit more oversized than I wanted so for the second version I omitted the hem band, took in at underarm and turned armhole band under.

Jenna Shirt by Closet Core under the vest, novelty woven cotton

1. I had to sew up this cotton for Valentine’s Day just cuz 🙂 I’ve also been seeing lots of oversized shirts in the magazines and trying to decide how oversized I like my shirts.

2. This pattern has cut on placket so I turned the right side to outside to show off the reverse weave and then turned the left size to the back. Nice pattern.

Eve Trousers by Merchant & Mills in cotton twill

1. Started down the “Top Down Center Out” rabbit hole! Mostly watched videos by “crooked hem”. It definitely has things to teach me. Don’t know that it’s the be-all and end-all but certainly worth looking into further.

Same pant in wide wale corduroy, longer length

2. Very much liked the 1” waistband-no need to contour. Also like the side zip.

3. Added 2” to the length. I think I like them!

4. Fun reading the directions-I chose the “Hem with Turnup” I kept thinking I was reading about vegetables!! And then there’s stitching in the crack 🙂

March 2025 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, March 5, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, March 6, 10:30, at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, March 8, 10:30, at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Saturday’s Garment Sewing Group Cancelled

The snow has convinced us that we should stay home this morning! Sorry, Lakes Makerie 😦

But there are still two opportunities to come and share you makes!

Wednesday, February 12, at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul

Thursday, February 13, at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley

Hope to see lots of you next week!!

Happy Snow(Sew) Day!

Small Sewing

Or should I say “sewing for small dolls”?

Someone handed me 3 kits for American Girl dolls at the fabric swap and said she thought I would like them for my granddaughters-sewists are amazing!! So I got busy-actually watched some pretty good movies-and sewed up the garments. It meant I didn’t have to deal with my upcoming sewing queue 🙂

The patterns and instructions were printed on the fabric. Easy to cut out and pretty easy to sew-except for the “miles” of gathering and the tight curves. The pockets didn’t make the cut!

Thanks, Liz!!

On a more adult wardrobe note, I listened to Everyday Style School podcast, “10 Ways to Boost Your Style in Under 10 Minutes“.

More than a few of them resonated with me so I thought I’d share, in case you need inspiration-

  1. Plan your outfits ahead of time
  2. Incorporate texture into outfits
  3. Add a belt
  4. Swap your shoes
  5. Add one expected accessory (the post Covid version of “Take off one piece of jewelry 🙂
  6. Cluster or layer accessories
  7. Spend two minutes styling your outfit
  8. Add a third piece
  9. Freshen up your clothes
  10. Boost your beauty routine

She does a great job of elaborating so here is the link if you’d like to listen-https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-everyday-style-school/id1464962252?i=1000685132503

Happy dressing!!

January GSG Final

It’s the Saturday meeting at Sew Inviting! Shopping bag and tea included!
Specialty small pieces came together in Stylearc Quinn Top
Butterick 6388 times two with a designer’s flair
Sewing Workshop Quincy Jacket as a sweatshirt
Wiksten Shift Top
Modified Anna Allen Anthea Top and pink Uggs!!
Winter Jacket by Easily Made
The finer details of Norwegian knitting

Debbie’s Garments:

Butterick 5926 in Ultra Stretch Jeans Knit

Fitting adjustments included petiting between shoulder and bust, narrowing shoulder and shortening body and sleeve length.

Unfortunately I read an article in the Winter 2024 Threads magazine titled Pattern Potential – A Guide To Evaluating and Choosing Wisely after I completed the jacket. The biggest problem with the pattern are the construction techniques. It would have been so much better to have a back neck facing and then sandwich the completed collar between the facings instead of sewing under collar to jacket and upper collar to facing and then sewing the two together. Also pressing under the facing shoulder seam and slip stitching to shoulder never a good idea – in my opinion!

The fabric was not fun to work with. It wasn’t ultra stretchy or forgiving. It was necessary to edge stitch the pocket to the jacket but any other topstitching just didn’t look good.

I like the end result of the jacket and it will get some wear, however I won’t be using the pattern or type of fabric again.

Simplicity 1538 with combined views in linen blend shirting

This is a TNT blouse pattern. The placket is a separate piece which makes it easier to use contrasting fabric or design accents like putting the fronts on the bias.

Other design changes I made were eliminating the back gathers and using a pleat instead and softening the shirt tail hem.

This pattern works well to sew the garment as flat as possible by changing the order of construction – before putting in the sleeves construct the placket, yoke, collar stand and collar.

Jalie Karine in sweater knit

I used the shorter version and still needed to shorten length 1 inch in body and 2 inches from sleeves.

I needed to do lots of basting to determine the length I wanted due to the method of constructing the band before adding the back sleeve.

If I made this again I would adjust the back funnel neck by removing it. This would allow me to sew sleeves to front and back and then add one continuous band.

I feel the pattern runs large so I recommend going down a size.

I love sweaters – I have knitted them and purchased them. I do not enjoy sewing them!

Kristin’s Garments:

Silk (?) Jacket

Hovea Jacket and Coat, Megan Nielsen, unlined woven

This is a versatile pattern with many options-lined, unlined, quilted, etc. Well drafted and lots of instructions.

Love the fabric. The big pockets could get saggy. Underarm curve was tricky.

Sleeves are narrower than a kimono. It grows on you 🙂

At Every Angle, Cutting Line Designs in pinwale corduroy

This is a TNT pattern for me. So fun to do variations with fabric, etc.

I made a size small, sleeves were 2” too short. Great instructions for mitered corners and hems. All raw edges taken care of and no hand stitching.

This pattern features her one seam collar. Turns out so nice.

Rika Pants, Closet Core Patterns, in cotton twill

This pattern has been calling to me for some time now so I gave in. Construction went well. Omitted front pockets.

Other Closet Core pant patterns have fit me well. This pattern is a bit short in the depth of the crotch and I let out the hips as much as possible. In looking at the versions on the website-the pattern delivered! They look the same on me as on the models-close fitting through waist and hips and wide legs.

February Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, February 8, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Wednesday, February 12, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, February 13, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

January Makes, Part One

Here are photos from Wednesday and Thursday meetings. Hope to see you on Saturday, 10:30 am, at Sew Inviting, 647 Snelling Av. S., St. Paul. We’ll be there this month and then go back to Sewing Lounge in February.

First, a funny tee shirt that her hubby was excited to find!
Simplicity 8546
Raw Silk Jacket-pattern unknown
Jalie Tania Jacket
Saved from life as a tablecloth!
Closet Core Kalle Shirt
Shackets-Wardrobe By Me Overshirt
Stylearc Logan Shacket with modifications
Tried and True Vogue 9057
Friday Pattern Co Arlo and wearing Jalie Romy with square neck add-on
Grainline Studio Lark Tee in cotton knit
Simplicity 8546 in cotton flannel
StyleArc Anais Woven Dress
Great dolls for the grandkids
And a little bit of Christmas!

December Inspiration

It never fails to surprise me when I look back at the pics from our Garment Sewing Group meetings-so much fun and creativity!

KwikSew 3531
Maker’s Atelier Big Easy Top
Jalie Sam Classic Fleece Jacket
Paper Theory Olya Shirt and wearing Sewing Workshop Liberty Shirt
Closet Core Blanca Flight Suit
5 Out of 4 Board Short made into a skirt
Love Notions Cadence Top
Islander Men’s Shirt
Closet Core Sienna Jacket
Vogue 1642
Simplicity 9326
Fiber Mood Soraya Top
Sewn into the fabric Escargot Pattern
Feel Good Dress by Me and Miss Moore
Lore Piar Leia Top and Grainline Reed Skirt
New Look 6529 with some sweet trim
Cashmerette Stanton Hoodie
Stylearc Josie Hoodie, wearing Butterick 6634
Left-Craft of Clothes Xanthea T-shirt into a vest/handwoven yardage, Kristin holding other colors
Simplicity 9275
Ellie and Mac Bridgette Dolman
Simplicity 9338
Helen’s Closet Wildwood
In the Fold Flynn Jacket
Core Brise free dress pattern

Happy New Year!

But let’s catch up on last year’s final GSG meeting-

December 2024

Garment Sewing Group

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Amy Butler Liverpool Shirt in corduroy shirting

This is one of my favorite shirt patterns. I have made it 3 times and I am always pleased with the fit and construction process.

I made a few changes this time making a long sleeve version and adding a fun cuff.

The sleeves are meant to be constructed flat but I did the set-in method.

I like the smaller collar, the fitted design and length. I especially like the fabric.

Simplicity 8699, View C, View B length, Marc Jacob’s Italian wool

A simple A-line skirt pattern would have been a better choice due to the fabric, contour waist and curvy side seams – oh well!

The only fit adjustment I made was to straighten the side seams.

It was a challenge to match the plaid at contour waist and get it to fit around my body while keeping the plaid from getting funky.

I thought this would be a simple quick make but it was more of a challenge and took more time than I planned for!

I needed and wanted a skirt to go with a RTW Knit jacket – this skirt fits the bill and I am sure it will get worn often during our cold weather.

Leftovers

I had difficulty sewing this month due to lack of inspiration and a basket of “leftover” projects that I couldn’t ignore before moving on. Finally I worked through the basket starting with making a Tee shirt dress into a tee-shirt and then using the leftover from the dress I made a scrappy tee. I also changed out snaps, adjusted cuffs on a blouse and refashioned another blouse from last month.

For the refashioned blouse, Burda 6146 – I didn’t care for the front slit and ruffles. I removed the ruffle and using a technique new to me I replaced the slit with a fun band. I will definitely use the band technique again.

Kristin’s Garments:

Andes Jacket Itch to Stitch and Vogue 1356, heavy ponte/cotton trim

Like Debbie, there were a few UFO’s that were asking to be useful! This was a mock up for an outdoor jacket.

Used Vogue 1356 closure instead of putting in a zipper and installed snaps.

Faced the hem, neck and front.

Added cuffs trim to tie in the navy seersucker.

Burda 6990/rayon knit and Jalie Vanessa/pinwale corduroy

Favorite pattern that I haven’t had out of the envelope for a while. It did not disappoint!

The rayon behaved very well-love the neck of this pattern. Added cuffs to sleeves because they wear the best (IMHO).

Love these TNT pants! Pocket facing and waistband in light cotton. Omitted the flat front and tie.

Burda 5869/wool with flannel backed satin lining

Vests are every “wear” in RTW but the patterns for sewists are skimpy. I started with two Simplicity patterns, one with a shoulder dart and one a bust dart. Made a muslin and looked at all the changes needed so instead of reinventing the wheel I pulled out Burda 5869.

Omitted the stand collar. Used the sleeve facing as armhole facing. Pattern includes lining with a back facing. Omitted zip.

What I learned (I think):

keep the main fabric equal or heavier than the lining

Interface the hem when using the elenapatternstudio method. It was fun to do it again-it came a bit easier.

Garment Sewing Group January 2025

Wednesday, January 8, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, Thursday, January 9, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, January 11, 10:30, Sew Inviting , St. Paul (Sewing Lounge is closed first two weeks of January)