March’s Garments

Garment Sewing Group

March 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Coral Spring Coat With Party Inside

Burda 6772, View A and B combined

Cotton Sateen with a little stretch and rayon lining (Bemberg for sleeves)

1.  Adjusted fit by petiting between shoulder and bust, waist and hip and one inch at hem.

2. Took in back princess seam 3/4 inch above waist.

3. Tapered sleeve starting under arm to hem approx. one inch.

4. Removed 3/8” sleeve ease at cap notch to notch.

Construction –

5. I decided to do soft tailoring and added fusible weft to sleeve head, hems.

Used hair canvas on upper back and upper front chest.

Tie interfacing was used for sleeve cap. 

Fusible interfacing and shoulder pads were added as pattern directs.

6.  I changed order of construction and used wrapped method for collar.

7.  I eliminated the side flaps and back pleat in lining and gathered that area for less restrictive movement.

This was a fun make!

Loose Fitting Pullover Woven Top

McCalls 7360, View C

Rayon twill

1. Did my standard petite adjustments and shortened sleeve and body length by 2 inches.

2. Then I realized I choose the wrong size category – should have gone down a category. Oh well – made some adjustments and I am happy with it.

3. I especially like the collar, back yoke and pleats and front placket.

4. My choice of fabric makes it difficult to see the details. Wearing this feels more interesting and comfortable then your standard every day tee.

Warmer Weather Wrap Robe

McCalls 8056

Light weight rayon jersey

1. Standard petite adjustments, shortened length of sleeves and body by one inch.

2. The body of the robe is very full so I straightened the side seams starting at under arm down to hem by 3 inches on each side. I also took out width from sleeve from under arm to hem, again by 3 inches. It is still very wide.

3. I changed order of construction and attached band to robe by folding long edge of band wst and serging it to robe and topstitching. The pattern directs to sew one edge of band to robe, press and slip stitch. I try to avoid that as much as possible!

4. I added inseam pockets. They don’t float due friction of knit.

5. I wore out a RTW robe like this one so I thought I would give this pattern from my stash a try. The fabric is not a favorite and the pattern is no longer in my possession.

Sew Your Roll- Child’s pink tee with bright cuffs.

Kristin’s Garments:

Raglan Toaster Mash Up

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater-raglan version

Cotton sweatshirt knit, activewear waffle knit, interlock stripe

1. This is what happens when you don’t have enough of one fabric, but to be honest, it’s probably better that the whole sweater wasn’t the cobweb print!

2. Made to pattern except for widening at hem and hem band. What a great pattern!

3. FYI-cuffs are very difficult to topstitch (and you don’t have to) so may want to apply flat if topstitching is part of your plan.

What To Do With the Funnel Neck?

Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater-funnel version

Double faced knit

1. Some people find the facings of the funnel version a bit high maintenance so I played a bit. You may want to try one or two of them but certainly all would be overkill.

2. First, I cut the back facing with a long curve as we see in ready to wear thinking the weight of the fabric would hold it down and solve the front vs. back problem (I know, it’s a high low hem 🙂 I ended up topstitching it down. I like the back interest.

3. Embroidering something on the back neck would also hold the back in place.

4. Topstitching the fold of the funnel definitely keeps the neck in place-mark the fold line and pin in place to be sure you get it right.

Did you know?? Itch to Stitch just released their Gothenburg Top which is the spitting image of the Sew House Seven funnel version but it has a bust dart, cup sizes, forward shoulder AND size range of 00-40! And they’ve added AO Copyshop format.

Hudson Pant #2

Hudson Pant by True Bias

Activewear knit

1. My first version of these was a rayon knit so I didn’t trust the fit. Had to try again.

2. Many of our students looked at the photos and decided to add 1” to the rise. We added the inch between the notch below the pocket and the lower “corner” of the pocket.

3. I made the ankle cuffs bigger by an inch to keep them from riding up on my ankles.

4. The 1” addition to the rise turned out to be mostly not necessary but using 1” elastic made it go away.

5. I would make the pocket band shorter next time as it bagged a bit.

6. Very comfy pants but not sure I will wear them as pants for public scrutiny-just my body shape 🙂

Cigarette Pants

Renee by Jalie Patterns

Rayon knit

1. Skinny pant for ponte knits with back darts to eliminate bulk and a long skinny inset as faux pockets to give a nice line.

2. I first made a pair 3 sizes too big as there was quite a bit of negative ease-these are the gray ones. I like the fit. Quite high waisted but comfy. Don’t miss pockets at all-but that’s me.

3. Had to try them in “my” size just to see-this would be the red pair.

Spring Jacket

Tania by Jalie Patterns

Ponte knits

1. Very attracted to the diagonal lines because I have a piece of wool stripe but the collar was my hang up. Made to pattern and it’s just OK.

2. Stay tuned to see what form the jacket takes…

Sew Your Roll-Muse Playsuit by Stitch Upon a Time-sweet pattern-well written-gusset is a challenge.

April 2021 Garment Sewing Group via Zoom

Saturday, April 10, 10:30

Tuesday, April 13, 10:30

Thursday, April 15, 10:30 (this is a departure from regular 2nd Thursday)

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