April Garment Sewing Group

From cold March sewing to hopes of April showers-

April 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Botanical Print Brown/Navy Jacket

Grainline Studio Morris Blazer  

Stretch cotton bottom weight with Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining

A Favorite TNT pattern.

1. Made standard petite adjustments.

2. French seams for front, back and sides. Attached interfacing to facing rst on outside edge for a clean finish.

3. It is an unlined jacket but I lined sleeves for easy on and off over other garment.

4. Changed order of construction.

Navy Darted Neckline Tee

Vogue 9205, View A

Cotton/Spandex Jersey.

1.Did standard petite adjustments and shortened length by 3 inches.

Good Basic Tee pattern with just a few minor tweaks.

Navy Print Princess Seam Unlined Jacket

Vogue 1644

Japanese Cotton with Bemberg Rayon for sleeve lining.

1. Made a muslin and made the following adjustments: petited between shoulder and bust, narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed  sleeve width at hem and did not shorten length of jacket.

2. I feel the jacket runs larger than info stated on pattern envelope and therefore wish I would have made a bit smaller in some areas.

3. Changed order of construction to be able to check fit as I sewed.

4.I cut the under collar on the bias and added a back neck facing to eliminate slip stitching.

5. It is an okay pattern but lacked sewing techniques that takes the garment up a notch or two.

Green/Vanilla Dot Pullover Blouse

New look 6434, View A

Silk

1. I like this pattern mainly because it has a bust dart and is not oversized.

2. I did standard petite adjustments as well as lowering bust dart one inch.

13. I am not a fan of the back opening with button  loop so I inserted an invisible zipper the “couture”method with zipper pull one inch from top of neck edge.

14. I used self bias tape and curved the bottom hem slightly.

Sew Your Roll-Purple new born bottom with lace inserted into pocket and sheer rose on pocket and center front.

Kristin’s Garments

Another Diagonal Cut Coat

Sapporo Coat, Papercut Patterns, long version

Wool herringbone

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1. Made a size 4 and went to 5 at hips. Took out 2” of length above bust line to bring diagonal closer to face and make armhole smaller. Made corresponding changes to sleeve.

2. Construction went very well. Clear directions-all fit together-except for sleeve lining and sleeve facing but that could have been due to the changes I made in sleeve width, etc.

3. Omitted pocket to keep things clean and close at waist. Added black trim to seam lines for added interest.

Something to Wear With Crazy Coats

Remy Raglan by Sew House Seven

Rayon challis

1. Cut the version with 3/4 sleeve with button at neck but made hem straight instead of curved because of print.

2. Pattern instructions are great-french seams, etc.

3. Neck is large enough to fit head so I sewed button to fabric and eliminated the loop.

4. Fit is just OK. Side seams droop which may be why the hem is curved in pattern. Sleeves are wide which allows rolling up-cool, unless your print isn’t double sided. May try narrow elastic in sleeve hem to gather in.

5. Armhole is high enough but quite wide across bust so fit is just OK-not a keeper IMHO.

Final Stripe Fabric Coat (with a party inside 🙂

Pendleton stripe wool/lining of indeterminate content

Burda 7700-TNT (tried and true)

1. Basted lining fabric to each piece as an underlining, except for back piece to which I added a pleat in the lining.

2. Had fun playing with the stripes which couldn’t be matched up for more than a few at a time on the diagonal.

3. Next time I will sew the collar on with the facing folded around to front to avoid the dreaded muck at center front joining. (How many times have I made this pattern??

4. Added Hong Kong finish at hems.

5. Very happy with the coat. It replaces a well worn earlier version in my studio.

6. Go to Woolenmill.store to find Pendleton wool for garment sewing.

A Little Woven, A Little Knit

Annika Top by StyleArc

Ponte knit, linen check

1. Pattern is drop shoulder and not very fitted but I think the style lines hit me in the right places.

2. Cuff is single layer-definitely would be nice doubled.

3. Started out with a larger size and went down one size.

4. Great for leftover fabrics and all the stretch in the right places!

Sew Your Roll Challenge

Leggings and Lace

Simplicity 8212

Activewear knit and lace

1. Highly acclaimed pattern has been in my stash for quite some time along with the fabric from SR Harris.

2. Pants zipped up quickly and fit fairly well. Topstitched to keep lace seam allowances in place. Added a small band to ankle.