Thursday we’ll be at Creative Sewing and Saturday at Ginny’s in Rochester (let me know if you want to carpool-construction is all done on 52!!)
Wednesday’s Inspiration at Sewing Lounge
Author: Kristin
August Inspiration/Sewing Lounge and Lakes Makerie
August’s Inspiration at Creative Sewing
August 2024-Debbie and Kristin’s Garments
Debbie’s Garments:
1. I wanted these pants to be a wearable muslin so I did a few length adjustments between hips and knee and knee and hem.
2. I chose to do a zipper fly instead of a button fly. Lifting Pins and Needles and TomKat Stitchery have instruction videos on YouTube that are very helpful explaining this technique.
3. The side seams between the waist and hip are very curvy. If I sew this pattern again I would make an adjustment to straighten out those seams.
4. I was concerned about the contour waist band being too wide but once finished I am pleased at where it sits on my waist.
5. I enjoyed the construction process of this pattern. It was fun to use a contrast fabric for pocket bag and zipper extension and add bias tape to waistband edge.
• Wearing my Jalie TNT pattern – Womens Tops 3352 with French terry for body and cotton jersey for sleeves and band.
1. I did my basic petiting techniques regarding fit adjustments.
2. I squared off the neckband edge at center front of collar band and also eliminated the chest pocket.
3. The pattern does have a lined yoke but does not use the burrito method to construct – but I did.
4. I used the black and white stripe for placket trim, cuffs and inside collar band.
5. I need to remember that I prefer collared shirts and full button downs most often!
1. This is a TNT pattern for me but this time I tried the couture method of bagging lining to neckband and sleeves.
2. The method works well but I found under stitching the armholes a challenge. It’s always good to try something new.
Kristin’s Garments:
New Look 6340, 6125, 6500
Linen with cotton lining
1. Simple, darted, A-line patterns with varying amounts of flare. They are listed above from most flare to least flare.
Kristin’s Garments, cont.
2. Facings come with the patterns but I wanted them lined for ease of wearing in summer.
3. I used the same couture technique as Debbie. Interfacing the stitching line at neck is a good idea. Also topstitching, depending on the weight of fabrics.
4. The link for the lining bagging technique: https://www.sewinglikemad.com/2020/08/tutorial-bagging-method-for-lining-of.html?m=1
Swing Summer Top
1. My favorite pattern in this style is the Willow Tank by Grainline Studio. But the Burda pattern had no bust dart making it a bit quicker to stitch up.
2. I like the two layered option so gave it a try. Using the lining method as above was a bit trickier as the under layer needed to be right side to wrong side of outer layer.
3. In the end, I think the bust dart is worth the time 🙂
1. This is the second version I have made of this pattern. I had to use the gauzes from Lakes Makerie and thought this might be the perfect pattern.
2. Some of the lines on pattern pieces disappeared when I projected them and eliminated layers. Hopefully that has been fixed.
3. The website gave instructions for a shirt tail hem so I did that instead of straight across.
4. Sleeve placket is bound but not with bias-see sample. Here’s the link for Workroom Social YouTube: https://youtu.be/odyOtcOpFLw?si=lweNjdduc_mTzOSJ
Cotton interlock
1. Pattern had much negative ease so instead of a size 12 I made a 20. Still not quite enough for hips but good at bust.
2. Armholes were too big so binding had to rein them in! May try again as I like the look.
Twig Pants from Stylearc (see pic above)
1. Diane made these last month so I had to try them as I love my Barry Pants (also from StyleArc but just front and back pieces and a few small darts-narrower than Twig and Bob).
2. Omitted pocket and front fly. Supposed to be flat front but I left the elastic in the front as a reinforcement and I think I like that. The opening is big enough to get over hips.
3. A fun pair of pants! Pattern calls for denim and twill-might be a bit stiff?
September 2024 Garment Sewing Dates:
Wednesday, September 11, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, September 12, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, September 14, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester
Last Month’s (July) Garment Sewing Group
***One more GSG meeting in August-Wednesday, Aug. 21 at Lakes Makerie!!
Debbie and Kristin’s garments:
July 2024
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. The fit – I shortened length between shoulders and bust and also between waist and hip. Unfortunately I neglected to shorten the the neckband and as a result it was too long for neck edge. I didn’t figure that out until almost too late. Just one reason I am not pleased with this make.
2. The pattern-the directions are few and too often vague. Many places on the pattern pieces should have a notch to match pieces together. For example, the front and back of sleeve armhole. There is no mention of interfacing center fronts for zipper.
3. The construction-the serger is often used in directions-definitely a plus. The zipper is inserted last and the lining is bagged. The lining at zipper needs to be slip stitched. I think you could leave an opening in one side seam, insert zipper in main fabric and lining and then sew up opening in side seam.
4. The bottom band goes around the entire jacket. I would have liked to have a main fabric piece on both sides of zipper. Sewing the zipper to the ribbing wasn’t pleasant.
5. Finding ribbing and zipper to go with jacket was difficult. If the jacket front was up closer to neck I may have found a better length of zipper. Having too long of a zipper generally doesn’t look the greatest In my opinion.
6. I wasn’t successful finding the correct zipper to make the jacket reversible.
7. This was an okay make – if there is a next time I would pay attention to what I listed above and make changes for a more successful project.
* Tee from ribbing is a TNT pattern that I use often. I learned the hard way that I needed to go down a size or two due to negative ease.
1. Fit – Did my standard petiting for length. No issues there.
2. The pattern – There are two back designs. One has a yoke and pleats, the other is a full back. The directions are clear and concise and the construction is all done by machine – no slip stitching. I feel the pattern runs small in size, especially in hip area.
3. For this make I “faced” the yoke and used the burrito roll for construction.
4. I evened out the front and back hems and did a narrow hem rather than a faced hem.
5. The width of the cuff for the sleeve was much narrower than pattern shows so I added 3/4 inch in width to cuff pattern – much easier to work with.
6. I liked this pattern so I made it again!
1. For this make I lined the front and full back. I thought a facing for the neckline would be too heavy so instead I used a serged bias strip for the v-neck.
2. The main fabric and lining are stitched together at side seams and also at the 5/8 inch hem.
3. The sleeves are not lined. I used the selvage edge of the lining for the cuffs.
4. A fun make that seems trendy but not too frilly!
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Wanted a sleep tank and this pattern has a center front seam (and back too) so it made the vee very easy.
2. Watched a video from Closet Core about an armhole binding that mimics my Eddie Bauer tank. They used a 5/8” seam allowance for the binding but that seemed too wide so I tried 3/8”. Applied arm hole band, single layer, right sides together, wrapped binding around seam allowance and cover stitched and trimmed excess. I like the look.
1. French terry version-used fold over elastic for pocket band.
2. Omitted ankle band on activewear version.
3. Put pleats in activewear version. Rise needs to be higher or elastic looser (and wear them lower 🙂
1. Just had to try another puff sleeve pattern and then I realized how close it was to Burda 6146 that I made previously. The Mocha pattern doesn’t have a bust dart-Burda does. Mocha has a back yoke option. I was going to do the yoke but started cutting the regular back so went with it!
2. Compared front and back armhole and they were equal plus the back neck seemed low so I cut 1/2” from front shoulders and did nothing to back. I also went down a size for the sleeve to accommodate the change. It’s a big sleeve so should be no problem.
3. Very happy with the top. Leveled the hem and sleeve cuffs are to pattern and serged to sleeve after sewing the side/underarm seam.
*Please Note – GSG Dates will not be the second week of the month in August.
August Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Catching up from July
Just a reminder of August Garment Sewing Group meetings:
Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
And now, more pics from last month’s meetings-
August Meetings start Thursday-
Several calendar conflicts have us meeting later than usual in August:
Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
We hope your calendar allows you to make it to one or two of them!
AND-it looks like July got away from me and I didn’t get any pictures posted so here they are. If you want any more info on patterns used, send me an email.
These are photos from July meetings, I’ll post more tomorrow-
Garment Sewing Group This Week
Hope to see you!! All meetings start at 10:30 am.
Wednesday, July 10 at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul
Thursday, July 11 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley-and fabric swap
Saturday, July 13 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
And if you’d like to make a day of it on Saturday-
Saturday, July 13, 1-4 pm Becky’s Buttons Open House at Lakes Makerie
Garment Sewing Group, lunch and buttons! What a Saturday!!
Our fearless travel reporter sent these notes:
Textile Center Garage Sale for September has been set. September 13 – 15, 2024. Proceeds to a good cause.
Sewing and Stitch Expo in Puyallup, WA 2025, February 26 – March 2. My source says hotels are filling up quickly!
Stitch Festival in London March 20-23rd, 2025. I’ve been drooling over this event for years in the Selvage magazine-anyone want to go!!
June 2024 Garment Sewing Group -Final
First up is Saturday’s Sew and Tell at Ginny’s. Keep scrolling down for Debbie and Kristin’s garments-
Debbie’s Garments:
1. Fitting adjustments include petiting between shoulder and bust and removing bust dart. The jacket is short in length so next time I may lengthen at the hem. Also the sleeve is too wide at hem – I need to remember to narrow width from elbow to hem next time.
2. I lined the sleeves and used bias strips to bind facing edges.
3. This is a fun and easy make – lots of versatility. I have a secret message inside that makes it more fun to wear. * Blouse is Kwik Sew Classic Shirt 3555 from 100% Cotton in 2023.
1. I did my usual petite adjustments and shortened the length of the sleeves. I cut the collar height 2 1/2” less than pattern piece.
2. I like this pattern and I will make it again. Because the fabric is not typical of athletic type garments it fits in with my more casual lifestyle. Next time I would make the pocket bag larger and insert it between front and back side seam. I would also add a fabric strip of facing along zipper and center fronts. * Tee is the Laundry Day Tee by Love Notions from 2023.
1. For fitting adjustments I petited between the shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment and shortened hem length by 1 inch.
2. This pattern is fairly easy, however shawl collars can be a little tricky obtaining the perfect roll line. I need to work on that if I make it again.
3. I am not a fan of the curve hem – I had some issues with vertical pulling. * Pants are Jalie Vanessa made from light weight textured cotton. TNT pattern for me!
Kristin’s Garments:
1. I have really wanted to make some of the “over-sized shirt” patterns the the designers have been coming up with-how are they different/same, etc. I made the size suggested for a 38” bust and made no sizing changes at hip or elsewhere.
2. Foldover front placket to wrong side.
3. Burrito roll is used for yoke-attaching at yoke seam, then shoulders. Suggests topstitching through only the right side and seam allowances instead of ws/rs/seam allowances eliminating some of the puckering and/or allowing for no topstitching showing on rs for a more polished look.
4. Features a separate under and outer collar piece. Great instructions-collar stand is attached first and then mini burrito roll for collar stand ends.
5. Tower placket and bias strip instructions for sleeve vent. I chose tower and need to practice a bit but then Debbie sent me this link https://pin.it/7D7g03Tfb Not sure if it will come through but it’s one of those great Japanese speedy tricks that I must master!
6. Cuff also included burrito roll suggestion at ends.
7. Shoulder width came out close to Maker’s Atelier version. Yoke is deeper than Maker’s.
8. Jenna also has a hanging loop attached in the yoke seam and a side hem gusset. Unless I read instructions incorrectly, I’d make a few changes to the angle of the gusset.
9. Truly a boyfriend shirt.
1. Again I made the size for a 38” bust with no fit alterations. Yoke is attached at shoulders first, then yoke seam.
2. Foldover front placket to right side-oops don’t use two sided fabric! But gives you the folded edge on outside.
3. Collar is attached same as Jenna Shirt but instructions aren’t quite as well done. Only one collar piece.
4. Instructions for bias strip cuff vent and a box version of the tower placket-again, not quite as well explained as Jenna but certainly adequate.
5. Back yoke is more shallow than Jenna but shoulder width very similar.
6. I love the pleated back-stitched all of them down-knew I’d never get them pressed that way again.
7. Love the style variations of this shirt and the written descriptions that have me making the gathered version next in gauzy cotton…
8. Next up on my shirt adventures-The Assembly Line Oversized Shirt!
1. Another feature we’re seeing-the shawl collar-seems to go in and out of popularity.
2. I’d agree with Debbie on all points.
3. Sleeveless version didn’t have a separate cut to the armhole and seems to have worked out well.
4. Learned or at least was exposed to the difficulty of curved edges with lined fabric-poor turning skills are accentuated!
July Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, July 10, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, July 11, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, July 13, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
June Sewing
Last chance for June makes is Saturday (6/15) at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester at 10:30. Contact me for carpooling-
Here are pics from Wednesday/Thursday-
Material Girl Sewing 