It’s that time again! Circumstances warranted a change in dates (just the Saturday one) so we’ll be meeting via Zoom on Tuesday, May 12, Thursday, May 14 and Saturday, May 16, all at 10:30 am.

Go to our calendar page for the links to the Zoom meeting. When it’s time for the meeting, just click on the link and you will go into a waiting room and be let in. It worked very well last month with 38 total attendees. If you’d like, send me an email or text and I can send a separate link directly to you.

You can wear your garment for show and tell or email me a pic and I will have it ready to put up during the meeting.

Happy Mother’s Day!!

March Fashion Sewing Club

Kristin’s Garments

Assembly Line Cuff Top

Crinkly cotton

1. Seam allowances vary from 1 cm-.5 cm marked on the pattern paper. I chose to serge seams and not topstitch so as to keep the bubbliness of the fabric.
2. Neck is supposed to be a facing but added a bias binding instead.
3. Sleeve elastic is 1.5” instead of the 2” called for in pattern. They also want you to serge elastic to raw edge, turn and topstitch. I made a casing.

Asymmetrical Top

Vogue 1665

Textured knit

1. Fun to assemble and wear! Hip opening is wide enough for top to drape more than hug.
2. All openings are hemmed seam allowances.

Diagonal Hem Maxi

Burda 6498

Rayon woven

1. Dress calls for underdress/lining that would mean 3 layers for the front. Instead I only lined the back.
2. This made assembly more of a puzzle but it worked! No zipper needed.
3. Armholes had to be bias bound because of assembly order.

Tee Shirt Dress

McCalls 7561

Rayon knit

1. Shortened bodice 1.5” to keep it at MY natural waistline.
2. Pattern calls for neckline to be hemmed-trimmed CF 5/8” and added band.
3. Added bands to sleeve.
4. Bodice seemed quite close fitting in photo so underarm/sleeve seam is 3/8” rather than 5/8”.

Debbie’s Garments

Faux Wrap Dress:  McCalls 7953, View A, Digital Kahio Indigo, 100% Rayon

1. Shortened  length between shoulder and bust which wasn’t difficult but also shortened dress length a total of 5 inches and it was difficult due to all the angles.

2. The pattern was annoying for the following reasons: difficult to determine which pattern pieces needed for each view, notches did not match up and the sewing techniques were awkward, especially for the faux wrap on right front. Ties sewed into seams would aid in fit.

3. The jumpsuit is appealing and I should have given it a try.

4. I do like the fabric but I think my choice does not have enough body for the wrap to stand out.

Navy Check Shirt/Tunic:  Vogue 1541, Today’s Fit Sandra Betzina , View A and B combined.

Double Gauze, 100% Cotton.

1. Went down one size in bust area, shortened length between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.  Shortened placket length.

2. Interfacing , pockets and bottom band were omitted.

3. The fitting and construction techniques are excellent, especially the center front placket. However the collar is a bit of a challenge.

4. One other great feature of her pattern construction is the recommended use of modern techniques such as the serger and Steam a Seam.

Sage Green Bow Blouse: Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse, 1502, View A, Brushed Stretch silk.

1. Shortened length between shoulder and bust as well as 2 inches hem length.

2. Straightened side seams slightly between waist and hip.

3. Added a hidden button placket – check out Susan Khalje in Threads #168, Aug/Sept 2013 for a great resource and  a few good You Tube videos.

4. I have been wanting to make this up for awhile to go with a wool blazer in my closet. I used a silk because I could not find a knit in this color. I am still looking for that knit!

April 2020 Fashion Sewing Club Dates

* Please note the changes made due to holiday

Thursday, April 9, 10:30, SR Harris, Burnsville

Tuesday, April 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Saturday, April 18, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Fashion Sewing Club February 2020

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy Swing Dress/Tunic

New Look 6469, View C

Rayon Ponte blend

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. Did not shorten overall length.

2. Omitted zipper and changed order of construction-sleeves to front and back then side seams.

3. Easy, quick, fun and I like the fit.

Purple Color Block Dress/Tunic

New Look 6439, View D with Scoop Neck

Rayon Ponte blend

1. Front and back are on fold – to achieve blocking, I added seam allowance to front and back at fold. Left front, back and sleeve are opposite colors from the right front, back and sleeve.

2. The neckband was omitted and the neck edge is turned under and cover stitched.

3. I have made this pattern at least 3 times and it is a winner.

Deep Coral Botanical Print Blouse

New Look 6394, View C

Liberty of London 100% Cotton

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back yoke and sleeve and also one inch between waist and hip on front an back. 

2. Pattern had sew on front facings – I changed to fold over to eliminate bulk. The yoke is single layer so I added yoke lining with burrito technique. This got me into a little trouble with facing so I improvised as best as I could to attach front facing to shoulder area.

3. French seams were used as often as possible as well as a bit of serging.

4. This is an easy pattern that lets the fabric stand out – exactly what I wanted.

Light Coral Small Print Shirt

Sewaholic 1501 Granville Fitted Shirt

100% Cotton

The fit of my shirt – princess seaming in back, shaped hem are definitely true to the Granville, however, I often combine construction techniques from Kwik Sew 3555, Nancy Zieman, Pam Howard  and other resources to create my favorite shirt.  

Kristin’s Garments

Julio Cesar Fleece Jacket

Vogue 1648

Polar fleece, activewear knit

1. Omitted back pleat because of thick fabric.

2. Kept a center back seam for shaping at neck.

3. Nice fit but maybe a bit close if using a non stretch woven as pattern calls for.

4. Omitted lining.

Turtleneck

Vogue 9337

Activewear knit

1. Pattern has a half neck piece for front of turtleneck-maybe to give better shoulder neck shaping?

2. Turtleneck isn’t meant to be turned down-one layer, hemmed at top.

3. Turtleneck is close fitting and long.

Leggings

Jalie Clara High Waisted Leggings #3887

Activewear knit

1. Center front seam is on fold and pattern has a gusset.

2. Easy to assemble. Near perfect fit. Made the version without waistband.

3. Only took in at knee-otherwise leg fit snugly.

One More Vogue Jacket

Vogue 1642

Polar fleece, activewear knit

1. Chose the longer version, View B.

2. Eliminated zip in collar.

3. Very large through shoulders and bust and then tapers to hem.

4. Collar opening too wide.

5. Sleeves are wide.

6. Pattern calls for zips in side seams, I just did slits.

March Fashion Sewing Club

Tuesday, March 10 at Treadle Yard Goods

Thursday, March 12 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Saturday, March 14 at Treadle Yard Goods

http://www.materialgirlsewing.com

February Club starts tomorrow!

Saturday, February 8, 10:30 at Treadle
Tuesday, February 11, 10:30 at Treadle
Thursday, February 13, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Debbie’s Garments:

Plum sweater Knit Dress/Tunic

McCalls 8022

Wool Knit Blend

1.Shortened between shoulder and bust and a total of 4 inches in dress length and 5 inches in sleeve length.

2.Eliminated pockets and constructed classic tee neckband over collar with casing or hood.

3. Quick and easy make and toasty warm!

*Turtleneck – Kwik Sew 4069, Jersey with 94% cotton, 6% elastic.

Novelty Knit Dress/Tunic

New Look 6632

Jacquard Double Knit poly/lycra

Contrast is also poly/lycra blend

1.Shortened between shoulder and bust and a total of 3 inches in dress length.

2.Pattern calls for bias tape finished neck edge – I removed seam allowance from neck opening and constructed a classic tee neckband.

3.Pockets were eliminated.

4.I was concerned about the Empire seaming but it seems to disappear in the stitching and I like the resulting fit.

Orange Sweatshirt

McCalls 7286

Organic Fleece with 50% Hemp-

30% Cotton and the rest is unknown!

Trim is Poly Nordic Sweater Knit

1.Shortened sleeves 2 inches and 1 inch in body length .

2. The fit is close fitting so I straightened the side seams from below bust to hem and used 1/4 inch seam allowances.

3.Changed order of construction  – attach sleeves to front and back first rather than sewing side and underarm sleeves and setting into top.

4.Cuffs were added to sleeves for contrast.

5.The neckline is low – as a sweatshirt I would like to have a little more coverage for warmth so I will be wearing a warm undergarment or turtleneck during our long Minnesota winters!

Purple Raglan Turtleneck – Jalie Marie Claude

Dark Wash Jeans– Jalie Eleonore

Kristin’s Garments:

Mockingjay Sweater Jacket

Simplicity 8218

Novelty wool, rayon boiled wool knit

1. Raised armhole 1” and decreased width of sleeve 1 1/2” to get a closer but not too close fit.

2. Applied the collar as a folded, finished unit. Collar seams got quite bulky.

3. Trimmed the fur from all seam allowances.

4. Eliminated all facings for obvious reasons 🙂

Title Nine Dress

New Look 6632

Beyond Yoga knit

1. Pattern has great fitting options.

2. Pattern calls for separate scarf but I added an 8” cowl with a 3/8” seam allowance to neck on pattern. No other changes needed at neckline.

3. Added cuff to sleeve to make it more casual.

4. Top stitched to look more ready to wear.

5. Great winter wear fabric!

Sweater Skirt

Butterick 6597

Sweater knit, ponte, tricot

1. Pattern has wide band in shape of rectangle (not contour) which is not that great for fitting so I put together the lower skirt and it fit perfectly without band so added 1” casing.

2. No side seams in this pattern. Love it!

3. Underlined the center section with tricot in case the sweater knit stretched and then liked the feel of lining so much that I lined the rest of skirt-hand stitched to center section.

There’s still Saturday’s meeting at Treadle at 10:30 am.

We had a large group on Saturday morning for Fashion Sewing Club!

Lots of ideas from early gifting to babies with some great clothing in between 🙂

Here are the highlights-

Debbie’s Garments:

Camel Stripe Peplum Shirt

Simplicity 8297, View D

100 % cotton woven

1. The facing was altered as a band for a more shirt-like look.

2. Shortened peplum. Eliminated front pocket.

3. Doubled the yoke and used the Hot Dog construction method.

4. Pattern called for horizontal buttonholes rather than vertical.

5. Used a two-piece cuff to utilize contrast fabric. Also used contrast for neck stand and band trim.

Camel Wrap Coat-Photo to appear soon 🙂

Simplicity 8796, View B

Wool Suiting-Lining 100% Silk

1. Shortened coat between bust and shoulder and between waist and bust.

2. Did a 1 inch narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. Used “soft”tailoring techniques – no hair canvas, used fusible interfacing and tie interfacing for sleeve head.

4. I was surprised how well this pattern went together. The instructions are clear, thorough and illustrated well.

Raglan Stripe Tee

Style Arc Madison Top

Cotton Knit

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and between waist and hem.

2. Raised bust darts.

3. I like the cuffs and deep hems. I would make it again but a go down a size.

Center Front Flounce Tee

Sewing Workshop Urban Tee

Viscose Knit

1. Color blocked to gain more contrast but did not work as I envisioned.

2. This tee isn’t difficult to make especially if you use more modern and efficient sewing knit techniques.

Kristin’s Garments

Knit Trim Cardigan-Jacket

Hot Patterns 1209

Sweatshirt fleece, knit trim

1. Great ideas-top/down bust dart, darts on sleeve

2. Sleeve fit was not a drop and not a fitted?

3. Loved the trim-pattern calls for facing so I cut off all edges and added the knit trim.

4. Lost some of the darting and should have just added trim-no trimming-ha!

Split Hem Tee

New Look 6482

Rayon knit

1. Trying to achieve a split hem without having flaps right at hip area.

2. Armhole/sleeve is very nice.

3. Pattern markings are off and “split” inset didn’t match at side seam.

Pleat Neck Tee

Burda 6329

Rayon knit

1. Fun pattern-several options with sleeves.

2. Neck binding was supposed to be a knit bias binding, folds and all

3. Used a wrapped edge instead.

Waist Pleat Tee

Burda 6276

Rayon knit

1. Another fun knit tee with nice variations.

2. Placement of pleat a suggestion 🙂 may need to move up or down.

3. Interfaced neck facing per instructions-lost the stretch and clingier fit for a vee.

Jalie Eleonore No Zip Skinny Jeans

Stretch woven cotton blend

1. Just the bomb pants pattern-

November 2019 Fashion Sewing Club

Saturday, November 9, 10:30 at Treadle

Tuesday, November 12, 10:30 at Treadle

Thursday, November 14, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Thursday, November 14, 6:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington

Upcoming classes:

Fit Workshop, Tues., Oct. 15 or Nov. 5, 12:30-3:30 at Treadle

or Monday, Nov. 11, 10-1 at First Sewing, Blmgtn.

Wardrobe Capsules: Discovery & Planning, Nov. 5 & 12, 6-8 at Treadle

Wardrobe Capsules: Cardigan, Nov. 19 & 25, 6-8 at Treadle

or Thursday, Nov. 7 & 21, 10-12 at First Sewing, Blmgtn.

Jalie All Day (No Zip Pant), Monday, Nov. 25, 10-2:30 at First Sewing, Blmgtn.

Sewing Expo in Puyallup-Feb. 27-Mar. 1-we are going-are you?

Material Girls’ Fashion Sewing Club

September 2019

Kristin’s Garments

New Look 6273 Ensemble

Jacket

Suiting fabric

1. Pattern sewed up well. Princess seams in front make for a nice fit.

2. Considered a single layer for lapel but happy with facing as directed.

3. Wrapped seams kept everything neat.

Shell

Silk

1. Very close to the shell from last month (also New Look :). Used wrong side of fabric for bias neck binding.

Pants

Tropical weight wool

1. Compared crotches with New Look 6461 and used that instead. Not sure about the wide leg pant for me.

Raglan Drape Front Cardigan

Burda 7184

Knit with woven stripe

1. Fun pattern but had more ease than I wanted so took in seams to skinny up. Hmm-jersey knit recommended-mine was heavier and more stable than a jersey. Go down a size.

2. Left edges raw. Trimmed lapel edges after sewing to take advantage of stripes.

3. Back neck edge treatment is bad. Just stretch a neckband across and serge on or go all the way from front edge around back neck to opposite front edge.

Gathered Neck Shell

New Look 6471 View C

Rayon challis

1. Pattern went together well.

2. Chose View C because the tie scarf seemed quite large.

3. Good choice for wearing under jacket.

Skirt

Cotton Stretch Woven

1. Added 2” to length. Added darts in back to take out bulk.

2. Used elastic for waistband.

Debbie’s Garments:

Purple Wrap Cardi:  Simplicity 8954, View A

Rayon Bamboo French Terry.

1. I am not a fan of a drop shoulder but in this case I thought the combo of fabric and pattern for the cardi would go over tops without too much resistance. The cardi is made to pattern and I am happy with the outcome. I will make this again.

Copper/purple Short Sleeve Tee:

Jalie T-Shirt 2805, with Turtleneck

Knit Viscose Lycra.

1.Adjusted the turtleneck pattern piece so that the upper circumference would be one inch smaller than the bottom circumference to get a more tight fitting turtleneck, especially using the rayon knit. Otherwise the tee is made to pattern and it is a TNT pattern.

Copper Paper Bag Waist Pants:  

McCalls 7942, View D

Stretch Twill -97%poly, 3% spandex.

1. Shortened pants by 4 inches-below hip, above and below knee.

2. For casing I added buttonholes at center front. Then attached ties to ends of elastic which became the drawstring tie inserted into casing.

3. The pattern runs large and I needed to adjust side seams. Next time I would go down a size.

Woven Cheetah Print Tulip Sleeve Top: Butterick 6687, View B

100% Poly

1. Shortened 2 inches above hem.

2. Pattern calls for purchased bias tape for neck finish but I did a bias serged finish using Bemberg lining scrap.

3. The fabric was a little difficult to work with especially when pressing.

4. I debated using an invisible zipper for closing but the sheerness of the fabric put a nix on that. I followed the pattern directions and put a hook and eye closing on center back. Not my favorite technique for any pattern.

Sand Color Contour Pull On Pant:

Sandra Betzina Vogue 1630, View B

Rayon Nylon Ponte.

1. I read many good reviews regarding the pants in the pattern so decided to make up a muslin using the blah sand color Ponte from my stash. Good decision – really like the pants.

2. Because the pattern has  good fitting directions I was able to make a wearable muslin.

3. I shortened the pattern in three paces- one inch above crotch, one inch above the knee and one inch above the Capri cut off line.

4. I started to construct the front slant pockets but then just topstitched the opening closed and cut off the bag. I don’t need bulk in that area.

5. Great pattern and I have the next pair cut out and ready to sew in a stretch woven.

October 2019 Fashion Sewing Club

Tuesday, October 8, 10:30 at Treadle

Thursday, October 10, 10:30 at SR Harris, Burnsville

Thursday, October 10, 6:30 at First sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, October 12, 10:30 at Treadle