Bringing a little sewing sunshine into your rainy day!

Debbie’s Garments:

I have made this jacket before so my petite adjustments were already made along with narrow shoulder adjustment and slimming sleeve width at hem.

The darts are so small in this pattern that I eliminated them and eased in the bust fullness in the princess seam without any problem.

The fabric for the jacket raveled easily so I did partial Hong Kong finishes and serged all other seams.

The two piece sleeve and faced hem are a plus for this pattern.

I am a fan of lightweight jackets in the warm seasons du to air conditioning and this jacket will help ward off too much chill. It was a quick and easy make.

I made my standard petite adjustments on the pattern, pin basted, made more adjustments – narrow shoulder adjustment and put “darts” in neckline of paper pattern and finally cut out the pattern from my lovely fabric and did lots of basting. The neckline was too big so I made more adjustments and sewed away.

So disappointing – I could not get the neckline to fit properly.

I really liked the fabric and felt it went well with my jacket so – I cut off the original neckline and made a scoop neck instead – much more wearable for me.

I believe the problem was that I chose the wrong fabric for the pattern. My rayon has too much drape. I should have selected a more structured fabric.

I like the pattern so when I find the correct fabric I will try the pattern again.

I made this pattern last year as shown but this time I eliminated the collar/neckband and did a serger bias neck finish. I also downsized the cuff, gathered the sleeve into the cuff without a closure and eliminated the sleeve tab. I didn’t want all that fussiness for a breezy linen blouse.

I did a split hem finish with twill tape for hem at the side seams. The method I used is from Rose Glyde@thudiy22.

This was so fun for so many reasons: great fabric, easy and attractive details like the darts on the sleeve, back seams coming over to side front, oversized but not too much and quick and easy to make.

It is a cropped top so I did not do any petite adjustments.

I copied Intostitches and used the satin for casing tie instead of the main fabric.

Again so fun even though this type of garment is generally not in my wheel house!

Kristin’s Garments:

This pattern has been calling to me from my stash so gave it a try in cotton. Very well drafted, all went together well. Lots of pleats and darts but really only two pattern pieces and a facing.

Zip was needed as neck is close fitting. I would like the sweetheart neckline to be a bit bigger all around but it fits well. Sleeve pleats make wearing easy when on but a little weird getting off and on.

Fit changes-raised the waistline so it was 1” shorter overall, minimized vertical darts.

I think I’ll keep the pattern for future as it has some good features and fit well but it won’t be a go-to pattern.

More darts, please!! Three darts per leg and the knee dart is on inside leg but after the blouse, not a problem-if only I felt as good about my zippers!

Swapped out the outside pocket for an inside pocket (pattern calls for a stacked pocket!! Cool feature if you are into it. Curious to see how a curved pocket hangs as my last few pants have had a straight diagonal line for pocket opening.

Pattern has pocket facings (and hem facings) so I used them to get a nice finish and be able to have my fancy fabric right side out on my pocket so I see it. But then I held up the pants and realized I can “see” the fancy side through the pants!!! Hopefully I will not stand still and no one will notice 🙂

Waistband is almost 3” deep so I cut that down to a 1” casing. I like the pants-slimmer fit than others and fun to put together.

Pattern has been in stash and catalog pic compelled me to give it a try. Collar didn’t call for interfacing but after trying without (too flimsy) I interfaced. Top went together well.

Skirt has a lining so sewed that up first and-too tight! Called Sarah’s Fabrics in Lawrence, Kansas and got 3 more yards as there wasn’t enough to cut a second skirt.

Was very curious how the tulip shaped front skirt would hang with straight back skirt-added about 3” to back skirt. Pleated the difference in back skirt to back bodice to match the front pleats. Very happy with the skirt! Didn’t use the lining as it restricted movement and didn’t want more weight pulling bodice down. Pleasantly surprised at how it hangs on body.

Again, not a go-to pattern but the drafting was fun to work with and I love the fabric!

Workshops at Ginny’s/Rochester-3 Day Pants Fitting, June 3-5, 3 Day Hand Tailoring, June 6-8, 3 Day Couture Dressmaking, June 9-11. More info www.LoveCoutureSewing.com

Retreat for Bernina Folks-Pines and Needles in Rochester, Ultimate Sewing and Quilting Retreat. Comes highly recommended by a few of our people. August 4,5,6. https://pnqs.net/pages/the-ultimate-sewing-quilting-retreat

June 2025 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 11, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester

Thursday, June 12, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, June 14, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wow! Another great month of sewing-

Can’t wait to see people tomorrow at Sewing Lounge, Thursday at Creative (and Fabric Swap) and then Saturday at Lakes Makerie (fingers crossed-the snow curse is over!)

A great turnout after a snowy week! Great variety!

Debbie’s Garments:

1. Fit adjustments include petiting between shoulder and bust, narrow shoulder adjustment and shortening the sleeves 2 inches.

2. The pattern includes lining pieces and recommends interfacing the entire front which I did as well as adding interfacing to sleeve cap and all hems. The weft interfacing I used is heavy. I think a lighter weight interfacing would have been a better choice. The pattern calls for shoulder pads. I added sleeve heads.

3. I squared off the collar and lapel edges. I also lost the pattern piece for the collar stand and needed to make my own pattern – more difficult than I thought.

4. When constructing the jacket I sometimes felt like I was wrestling with an alligator. The lining was slippery and the interfaced denim was stiff.

5. Buttonholes were not fun-I eliminated a second set on the inside of the jacket.

6. Even though constructing the coat was a challenge I do enjoy coat making!

1. Fit adjustments include petiting between shoulder and bust, shortening the sleeves 2 inches and shortening the length 2 inches between hip and hem.

2. Design changes I made were shortening the front slit and softening the curved hem.

3. The blouse is an easy and quick make. The most difficult construction step is getting the sleeve elastic to cooperate in the very full sleeve casing.

Teal/Cream Geo Print Boatneck Tee

1. This new to me Palmer/Pletsch Tee shirt pattern caught my eye. I make and wear a lot of tees and am always on the lookout for something different.

2. Palmer/Pletsch patterns are filled with directions for basic fit adjustments. The back neckline on this tee was 1 and 1/2 inches below neck so I decided to do a rounded back adjustment. I think I could have done better by just raising the back neck. Besides my standard petite adjustments I did decrease neck opening from 1/4 inch at top of sleeve to “nothing” at neck opening.

3. There is a lot of length in this pattern. I shortened the sleeve length by one inch and body length by 2 inches.

4. This pattern also caught my eye due to the bust dart which I appreciate. I pressed the dart up “for a more youthful look” as quoted in the directions!

Kristin’s Garments:

1. I had to sew up this wool that I bought at Sewing Workshop in Kansas last fall. Not sure that the color is what I should wear but I will pair it with other colors to bring out my colors.

2. The deep cuffs, lack of collar, and stitching lines are what drew me to the pattern. I didn’t want a bulky jacket to wear under winter jackets.

3. I made a size 16 and went to 18 at hips-length is to pattern. Shortened sleeves 1 1/4” below the elbow pleat.

4. The pattern has buttons so I cut off facing and CF to make it compatible with zipper.

5. The fit is close so I’m glad it has a lining. Lining front was in one piece with a dart-clever, Burda! I did more bagging of the lining than directions gave.

6. Rivets were added to amp up the look-I think it’s a very versatile jacket depending on fabric and notion choices.

1. I’ve made this blouse before in rayon and like the front slit (the depth of the slit is “to pattern” and perfect for me). The wool crepe is puffy so I didn’t want to do all the gathering of the neck “frill”. Instead I used a collar neck stand piece from another pattern to give me something that would look good under the above jacket.

2. This fabric was also from Sewing Workshop. The ties are made from the silk that I used to line the jacket and was purchased at Sew Inviting. I love them together! My previous blouse had a hook and eye at the neck and always comes undone so the tie was the obvious answer and part of the pattern. Ties for women also seem to be catching my eye (we see what we look for, right?)

3. The sleeves were altered to come in at the wrist and be less full. The fullness left over was pleated into a 1” band.

4. I also learned my lesson and interfaced neckband and facings 🙂

1. Another fabric find from Sewing Workshop. Figured the stretch fabric would work great in the Hudson-wrong!! When are you going to learn to check out the stretch of a novelty-strike that-any knit before cutting??

2. Fortunately I added an inch to the rise.

Tanks (Evie Tank/StyleArc) and Turtles (Burda 6990/raglan) and McCalls 6796 (sorry, no pics)

1. My go-to patterns in warm, thin wool for under layers.

Wanna go? Take a train? (Train tickets appr. $100 leaving from MSP or Red Wing:)

Haute Couture Club of Chicago Fashion Show

When:

Sunday, May 4th 2024, 11:45am-3:00pm CST

Where:  

Chicago Yacht Club,Chicago, IL 60601

 Cost:  $65 per person

April 5th is deadline for receiving garment entries.

April 2025 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, April 9, 10:30, at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, April 10, 10:30, at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, April 12, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Wow, driving up to Apple Valley was an eye opener! Lots of snow piled up everywhere. But the roads were good and we were all glad to see our sewing people and amazing sewing projects.

More to come on Saturday (tomorrow) at The Sewing Lounge!!

See you all on Thursday! That’s two months in a row-wonder what April will bring??

Have a cozy day! The sun will take care of the snow tomorrow, right?

Here’s what we saw at last month’s meetings-and BTW-March meetings begin next week!

Wednesday, March 5, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, March 6, 10:30, at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, March 8, 10:30, at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

I’ll try to get to the surveys very soon-if you didn’t get to fill one out and would like to, let me know.

The snow has convinced us that we should stay home this morning! Sorry, Lakes Makerie 😦

But there are still two opportunities to come and share you makes!

Wednesday, February 12, at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul

Thursday, February 13, at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley

Hope to see lots of you next week!!

Happy Snow(Sew) Day!

Or should I say “sewing for small dolls”?

Someone handed me 3 kits for American Girl dolls at the fabric swap and said she thought I would like them for my granddaughters-sewists are amazing!! So I got busy-actually watched some pretty good movies-and sewed up the garments. It meant I didn’t have to deal with my upcoming sewing queue 🙂

The patterns and instructions were printed on the fabric. Easy to cut out and pretty easy to sew-except for the “miles” of gathering and the tight curves. The pockets didn’t make the cut!

Thanks, Liz!!

On a more adult wardrobe note, I listened to Everyday Style School podcast, “10 Ways to Boost Your Style in Under 10 Minutes“.

More than a few of them resonated with me so I thought I’d share, in case you need inspiration-

1. Plan your outfits ahead of time
2. Incorporate texture into outfits
3. Add a belt
4. Swap your shoes
5. Add one expected accessory (the post Covid version of “Take off one piece of jewelry 🙂
6. Cluster or layer accessories
7. Spend two minutes styling your outfit
8. Add a third piece
9. Freshen up your clothes
10. Boost your beauty routine

She does a great job of elaborating so here is the link if you’d like to listen-https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-everyday-style-school/id1464962252?i=1000685132503

Happy dressing!!

Debbie’s Garments:

Fitting adjustments included petiting between shoulder and bust, narrowing shoulder and shortening body and sleeve length.

Unfortunately I read an article in the Winter 2024 Threads magazine titled Pattern Potential – A Guide To Evaluating and Choosing Wisely after I completed the jacket. The biggest problem with the pattern are the construction techniques. It would have been so much better to have a back neck facing and then sandwich the completed collar between the facings instead of sewing under collar to jacket and upper collar to facing and then sewing the two together. Also pressing under the facing shoulder seam and slip stitching to shoulder never a good idea – in my opinion!

The fabric was not fun to work with. It wasn’t ultra stretchy or forgiving. It was necessary to edge stitch the pocket to the jacket but any other topstitching just didn’t look good.

I like the end result of the jacket and it will get some wear, however I won’t be using the pattern or type of fabric again.

This is a TNT blouse pattern. The placket is a separate piece which makes it easier to use contrasting fabric or design accents like putting the fronts on the bias.

Other design changes I made were eliminating the back gathers and using a pleat instead and softening the shirt tail hem.

This pattern works well to sew the garment as flat as possible by changing the order of construction – before putting in the sleeves construct the placket, yoke, collar stand and collar.

I used the shorter version and still needed to shorten length 1 inch in body and 2 inches from sleeves.

I needed to do lots of basting to determine the length I wanted due to the method of constructing the band before adding the back sleeve.

If I made this again I would adjust the back funnel neck by removing it. This would allow me to sew sleeves to front and back and then add one continuous band.

I feel the pattern runs large so I recommend going down a size.

I love sweaters – I have knitted them and purchased them. I do not enjoy sewing them!

Kristin’s Garments:

Silk (?) Jacket

This is a versatile pattern with many options-lined, unlined, quilted, etc. Well drafted and lots of instructions.

Love the fabric. The big pockets could get saggy. Underarm curve was tricky.

Sleeves are narrower than a kimono. It grows on you 🙂

This is a TNT pattern for me. So fun to do variations with fabric, etc.

I made a size small, sleeves were 2” too short. Great instructions for mitered corners and hems. All raw edges taken care of and no hand stitching.

This pattern features her one seam collar. Turns out so nice.

This pattern has been calling to me for some time now so I gave in. Construction went well. Omitted front pockets.

Other Closet Core pant patterns have fit me well. This pattern is a bit short in the depth of the crotch and I let out the hips as much as possible. In looking at the versions on the website-the pattern delivered! They look the same on me as on the models-close fitting through waist and hips and wide legs.

February Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, February 8, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Wednesday, February 12, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, February 13, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley