We had a lovely crowd at Sewing Lounge on Saturday. Beautiful new fabric, too! We’ll be at Sew Inviting on Wednesday and Creative on Thursday-see you!!
First Photos from November
October-Debbie and Kristin’s Garments
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater, Version1, Purple Watercolor digital print Sweatshirt fleece. High neck, semi-cropped , raglan sleeves with wide band and cuffs and loose T-neckband. This pattern requires no fit adjustments for me.
Sew House Toaster Sweater, Version 2. Green and Gray light Ponte or double knit. This version has a unique neckline, set in sleeves, fitted through bust and then slightly swings out to hem. There are side vents with a hi-low hem. The only fit adjustments I make to this pattern is shortening the length between waist and hip. Both versions are easy, quick and versatile makes. Truly a great pattern.
I like features from these two patterns so I often interchange pattern pieces and construction details. For example, I wanted contrast cuffs so I used the Simplicity pattern piece because the KS pattern doesn’t use a two piece cuff pattern piece.
Cranberry Winter Coat
I did my fitting adjustments including petiting, narrow shoulder and shortening sleeves and body length.
I used inseam pockets and bound buttonholes. (Mistake Proof Bound Buttonholes on It’s Sew Easy with Janet Pray – You Tube ).
This pattern is well drafted and the directions are excellent. Time consuming but not too difficult.
I may have added a design feature to lining hem OR I may have “camouflaged” a mistake. I also may need to redo the lining – I am going to think on that.
When we had that cold spell in August I was motivated to start this project. Then the weather got HOT and I almost put it aside for awhile. I have a hard time starting a garment and not completing it before going on to the next project so I kept on going. I’m glad I did – I am ready for winter whenever Mother Nature throws it at us!
Kristin’s Garments
Shawl Collar Jacket
This fabric was quite off grain so a slow cut but there was enough fabric. It also has cross grain stretch which makes the jacket very comfortable. The pattern is drafted for a woven fabric with no stretch.
The pattern features a cut-on neck facing but pivoting went well. Neck facings were turned under and handsewn.
Fit is nice, collar lays beautifully. Front facings are wide and pulled at front so facings were hand tacked at edges. The grain of the fabric may have had something to do with the pulling too.
Great jacket-I can see short versions and many different fabrics that would work.
Stylearc Cheryl Stretch Woven Pants in ponte
1. I wanted a cropped pant that wasn’t too wide legged. I’ve made these in stretch denim before and they are OK but the ponte works well. Goes together quickly and has very gathering at the waistband.
Love Notions Barrington Boxy Tee-tried and true boxy fit tee that draped nicely in the Eileen Fisher knit.
If no one has said, “it’s all about the fabric” somebody should! Not sure what possessed me to buy the pique (photo above) but I won’t buy any more. It’s fine but the tee looks better in the navy Eileen Fisher (photo with gray pants) as it is slippery on the inside so hangs better than the pique.
I was inspired by a blog post and just had to try the original pattern first. The pique knit had very little drape and the pattern was too big so I took it in.
The neckband is a single band of knit serged to the neck edge and rolled around to wrong side and stitched in the ditch. Nice option with a knit like the pique that hasn’t much stretch recovery.
Burda 6990 in rayon knit–better result
I was thinking all along that I should just use 6990 and tilt it out at centers front and back to get the same effect as the Makers Atelier tee. After all, I already knew it would fit around arms, etc. The rayon knit also hangs better and looks more like the inspiration photo.
November Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, Nov. 8, 10:30 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, Nov. 12, 10:30 at Sew Inviting, St. Paul
Thursday, Nov. 13, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
October Garment Sewing Group Wrap-up
The common theme for Saturday seemed to have been Toaster Sweaters from Sew House Seven. Not many new ones but the tried and true, “still in my closet” garments 🙂 Debbie made one too-see next post!
October Photos
We meet tomorrow, October 11, at Sewing Lounge, 10:30 am. Last chance this month 🙂
Worth the drive to Rochester to Ginny’s Fine Fabrics on Wednesday-
And then at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley-
Final Photos for September
First, the sewing that we saw at Ginny’s! A pretty full house with attendees from Texas and West Virginia 🙂
And then Debbie and Kristin’s garments:
Debbie’s Garments:
Purple Floral “Cabin Wear” Zip Jacket
This is a quick and easy topper that I have made before.
My fitting adjustments were previously made including petiting and narrow shoulder adjustment. I also narrowed the width of the collar and eliminated the pockets – too small to be of any use.
The next time I make the topper I will add a facing to center front to stabilize and improve appearance of zipper. I would also like to add side seam pockets.
Just another tee to wear under my “cabin wear” jacket.
I like this tee pattern because of the boat neck and close fitting shaping.
Instead of using the neckband facing included in the pattern, I did a serged bias neckband.
Lavender Slouchy Tee (no photo)
Neckline from Jalie Women’s Tee #2805 with Jalie Dolman Tee # 3352
Rayon/Cotton Rib Knit Jersey
Another Tee to go with my “cabin wear” jacket.
Two TNT patterns that work well with a variety of knits create different looks and can fit into capsule wardrobes easily.
This is a fail for me due to the very poor pattern instructions and my choice of fabric.
I made a quick muslin, shortening 1 inch between bust and waist and 1 inch between hip and hem. Sleeves were shortened 2 inches.
I like to make one piece welt pockets so I eliminated the pleats on the welt because I couldn’t figure out how to incorporate them – unfortunate because that detail was one reason why I wanted to make the jacket!
I wanted to believe the fabric was navy – it’s not. Therefore I had difficulty finding a contrast for the sleeves so I settled – the contrast was another reason I was drawn to the pattern!
In the back of my mind all along I knew this make was doomed. Between the pattern, instructions, lack of notches, fabric and construction details, there was little success. Failure brings growth – right?! There won’t be a next time for this jacket but I will recycle the jacquard fabric along with my leftover fabric some day but not for awhile!
This is a TNT blouse pattern mainly because it can easily be switched up to create different looks.
For this version I Changed the V-neck to a round neckline and added a seam to the center back with button closure. I also added a facing instead of a serged bias edge for the neckline.
I especially like the elastic cuffs – just a fun feature.
Kristin’s Garments:
I have had much fun wearing the navy gored skirt inspired by the same magazine so was excited to try the pleated skirt.
Linen was my first choice but as I thought about tracing a line or pulling a thread on a solid linen I saw too many opportunities for frustration. So I chose a fabric with a woven line!
The repeat of the weave gave me the three pleats I needed and in close to the same placement as the darts in the pattern. I stitched down the four lines of each pleat and then added the darts in the four pleats that were in the right place.
Then I cut out the pattern for shaping of the skirt.
The pattern has a waistband facing as does the “skirt”. I topstitched the facing at the bottom edge for the same look. I have no closure as I put skirt on over my head.
The hem took a bit as I had to rip out my pleat stitching to turn up the hem and then resew the pleat stitching but now I know how to treat hems when I pleat-just stop stitching when you get to hem area!
It’s a different look than if it was linen but I think I like the movement/crunchiness/lack of wrinkling that this fabric gives. I think the weave is also small enough to play with other prints well.
Elastic Tie Sweater from The Assembly Line (photo above), barkcloth
My inspiration was a jewel neck simple top in a bold print and this pattern has always been easy to wear so I sewed up the darts that would normally just fold softly with the eyelets and tie and cut off the front neckline. The back already has an additional neck stand so it was eliminated to get the jewel neck.
The barkcloth feels soft but frays and smooshes a bit so I stabilized the shoulder seams and used a not-very-bias binding on the neck edge. A facing may have been a better choice.
The sleeve has an elbow dart and a facing, which is nice as the barkcloth’s wrong side is a stark contrast to the printed right side of fabric.
Inspired by Everyday Style’s podcast on wearing nice things all the time I wanted to have a classic pair of pajamas but not all the fuss of a button front shirt (and I may have a little fabric that was begging to finally be used!!!)
I started with the Holiday Shirt which features a conventional collar and a sewn together center front-eliminating buttons and fuss. I thought I had made this in flannel but it was bigger and baggier than the flannel so back to the drawing board.
Which brought me to the Band Camp Shirt which has a cut on facing so I stitched it up on the center front from hem to center front opening, applied the collar, stitched the facing to neck and I’m really happy with the fit and construction and versatility of the pattern!
On to the pants-I’ve always been a fan of the baggy bum boxer and Jalie had just what I needed. I chose the pattern according to my hip and they are amazing! Long, not too baggy or wide legged and in almost every size-what more can I say! I tried them in a grandchild size and they walked away on the grandchild (after I told him he had them on backwards and his father explained the baggy bum advantage 🙂 And did I mention-the fly is squared off?? No more tight curve topstitching!
October Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, October 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Thursday, October 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, October 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Some September Sewing
Oh, my! The bug bit this month and we’re not quite done! Tomorrow is our meeting at Ginny’s in Rochester. It’s not too late to get into the carpool!
UFO’s and We Meet Next Week!
Next week is September’s Garment Sewing Group meetings-
September Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, September 10, Lakes Makerie, Mpls
Thursday, September 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley/Fabric Swap
Saturday, September 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Can’t wait to see what our change in weather has inspired!!
I’ve been trying to finish some projects in my studio-
What do you have hiding away that you can bring out in the open?
More August Inspiration!
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop with sashiko stitching
Helen’s Closet Arden Pant
6629 Simplicity Jacket
Mocha Top in cotton
Cinch Me I’m Dreaming from Forest and Thread (won the best pattern name :))
August Garment Sewing Group
Last of summer sewing??? We’ll see…
Debbie’s Garments:
The only fit adjustment I needed to make on the vest was narrowing the shoulder.
The pattern calls for interfacing the entire front-I just interfaced the buttonhole area at center front due to the weight of my fabric.
I especially like the shaping of the vest and the faux welt pockets. I eliminated the back ties – too fussy for me.
Summer Coral Pants
Burda 7062, View A
This is a TNT pattern. Since I had plenty of fabric left from my vest I knew I had to follow up with matching pants.
I like the slits at leg hem and the contour faced waistband.
Pants can be boring but can feel pretty especially when bias binding is used on bottom edge of waistband.
The vest and pants were a fun and easy make.
I shortened the length of the tee 1” between the bust and waist and 1” from hem length.
The pattern comes with neck variations, long, 3/4 or short sleeves, cuffs and modesty panels.
Very easy and quick make.
Length adjustments included petiting between the shoulder and bust on fronts, back and sleeves. I chose to do the knee length and shortened that length 2 inches.
Due to the fabric, pattern and construction methods I chose this make became a bit of a challenge.
The fabric has no right or wrong side. It’s a plaid/check that needed matching and my machine needles did not enjoy stitching through fabric that wasn’t just one layer.
I cut the width of the band in half, gathered it, and serge finished that with self made bias – my needles/machine did not like the thickness of the seam. Also I didn’t have quite enough fabric to go around the robe opening.
Instead of patch pockets I made inseam pockets and used French seaming everywhere except for inserting sleeves into armhole. It got too confusing keeping track of right and wrong side. The sleeves were serged into armhole.
I gathered about 6 inches on the center back of robe. Then I attached the center of the tie to the back of the robe on the gathered stitching. The ties are secured with that stitching and with belt loops at side seams.
This was a good learning make for me, especially the french seam pockets – a new skill for me that I will try again.
Kristin’s Garments:
My go-to summer dress is a Vogue out of print/fussy pattern so tried this one to see if I can get the same effect with less fuss.
Shortened the waist by 1” and then ended up changing waist shaping even more.
Found a fun trim in my stash and when it wasn’t quite enough, I made do.
Decreased collar depth by 3/8”.
Too late for August but Closet Core just came out with the Edith Dress which is similar.
Cut out a size 12 going to 14 at hips. Another sewist had warned me that it was close fitting and she wasn’t wrong-I let out side seam allowances as far as 5/8” seam would let me.
Love the half facing for armholes and neck. Burrito roll is explained very well.
Pattern called for a 1.25” hem-I used a piece of bias facing to keep it longer.
Had to give this one a try as it’s a look I like. Cut out a size large and am happy with the fit.
Pattern includes three sleeve lengths and three necklines.
August Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, September 10, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Thursday, September 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, September 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Saturday at Sewing Inviting
Sew Inviting hosted our meeting on Saturday and what a wonderful morning it was-looks like Sew House Seven and Love Notions won out for summer sewing!!
Material Girl Sewing 