The snow has convinced us that we should stay home this morning! Sorry, Lakes Makerie 😦
But there are still two opportunities to come and share you makes!
Wednesday, February 12, at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul
Thursday, February 13, at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley
Hope to see lots of you next week!!
Happy Snow(Sew) Day!
Or should I say “sewing for small dolls”?
Someone handed me 3 kits for American Girl dolls at the fabric swap and said she thought I would like them for my granddaughters-sewists are amazing!! So I got busy-actually watched some pretty good movies-and sewed up the garments. It meant I didn’t have to deal with my upcoming sewing queue 🙂
The patterns and instructions were printed on the fabric. Easy to cut out and pretty easy to sew-except for the “miles” of gathering and the tight curves. The pockets didn’t make the cut!
Thanks, Liz!!
On a more adult wardrobe note, I listened to Everyday Style School podcast, “10 Ways to Boost Your Style in Under 10 Minutes“.
More than a few of them resonated with me so I thought I’d share, in case you need inspiration-
She does a great job of elaborating so here is the link if you’d like to listen-https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-everyday-style-school/id1464962252?i=1000685132503
Happy dressing!!
Debbie’s Garments:
Fitting adjustments included petiting between shoulder and bust, narrowing shoulder and shortening body and sleeve length.
Unfortunately I read an article in the Winter 2024 Threads magazine titled Pattern Potential – A Guide To Evaluating and Choosing Wisely after I completed the jacket. The biggest problem with the pattern are the construction techniques. It would have been so much better to have a back neck facing and then sandwich the completed collar between the facings instead of sewing under collar to jacket and upper collar to facing and then sewing the two together. Also pressing under the facing shoulder seam and slip stitching to shoulder never a good idea – in my opinion!
The fabric was not fun to work with. It wasn’t ultra stretchy or forgiving. It was necessary to edge stitch the pocket to the jacket but any other topstitching just didn’t look good.
I like the end result of the jacket and it will get some wear, however I won’t be using the pattern or type of fabric again.
This is a TNT blouse pattern. The placket is a separate piece which makes it easier to use contrasting fabric or design accents like putting the fronts on the bias.
Other design changes I made were eliminating the back gathers and using a pleat instead and softening the shirt tail hem.
This pattern works well to sew the garment as flat as possible by changing the order of construction – before putting in the sleeves construct the placket, yoke, collar stand and collar.
I used the shorter version and still needed to shorten length 1 inch in body and 2 inches from sleeves.
I needed to do lots of basting to determine the length I wanted due to the method of constructing the band before adding the back sleeve.
If I made this again I would adjust the back funnel neck by removing it. This would allow me to sew sleeves to front and back and then add one continuous band.
I feel the pattern runs large so I recommend going down a size.
I love sweaters – I have knitted them and purchased them. I do not enjoy sewing them!
Kristin’s Garments:
Silk (?) Jacket
This is a versatile pattern with many options-lined, unlined, quilted, etc. Well drafted and lots of instructions.
Love the fabric. The big pockets could get saggy. Underarm curve was tricky.
Sleeves are narrower than a kimono. It grows on you 🙂
This is a TNT pattern for me. So fun to do variations with fabric, etc.
I made a size small, sleeves were 2” too short. Great instructions for mitered corners and hems. All raw edges taken care of and no hand stitching.
This pattern features her one seam collar. Turns out so nice.
This pattern has been calling to me for some time now so I gave in. Construction went well. Omitted front pockets.
Other Closet Core pant patterns have fit me well. This pattern is a bit short in the depth of the crotch and I let out the hips as much as possible. In looking at the versions on the website-the pattern delivered! They look the same on me as on the models-close fitting through waist and hips and wide legs.
February Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, February 8, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Wednesday, February 12, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, February 13, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Here are photos from Wednesday and Thursday meetings. Hope to see you on Saturday, 10:30 am, at Sew Inviting, 647 Snelling Av. S., St. Paul. We’ll be there this month and then go back to Sewing Lounge in February.
It never fails to surprise me when I look back at the pics from our Garment Sewing Group meetings-so much fun and creativity!
But let’s catch up on last year’s final GSG meeting-
December 2024
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
This is one of my favorite shirt patterns. I have made it 3 times and I am always pleased with the fit and construction process.
I made a few changes this time making a long sleeve version and adding a fun cuff.
The sleeves are meant to be constructed flat but I did the set-in method.
I like the smaller collar, the fitted design and length. I especially like the fabric.
A simple A-line skirt pattern would have been a better choice due to the fabric, contour waist and curvy side seams – oh well!
The only fit adjustment I made was to straighten the side seams.
It was a challenge to match the plaid at contour waist and get it to fit around my body while keeping the plaid from getting funky.
I thought this would be a simple quick make but it was more of a challenge and took more time than I planned for!
I needed and wanted a skirt to go with a RTW Knit jacket – this skirt fits the bill and I am sure it will get worn often during our cold weather.
Leftovers –
I had difficulty sewing this month due to lack of inspiration and a basket of “leftover” projects that I couldn’t ignore before moving on. Finally I worked through the basket starting with making a Tee shirt dress into a tee-shirt and then using the leftover from the dress I made a scrappy tee. I also changed out snaps, adjusted cuffs on a blouse and refashioned another blouse from last month.
For the refashioned blouse, Burda 6146 – I didn’t care for the front slit and ruffles. I removed the ruffle and using a technique new to me I replaced the slit with a fun band. I will definitely use the band technique again.
Kristin’s Garments:
Like Debbie, there were a few UFO’s that were asking to be useful! This was a mock up for an outdoor jacket.
Used Vogue 1356 closure instead of putting in a zipper and installed snaps.
Faced the hem, neck and front.
Added cuffs trim to tie in the navy seersucker.
Favorite pattern that I haven’t had out of the envelope for a while. It did not disappoint!
The rayon behaved very well-love the neck of this pattern. Added cuffs to sleeves because they wear the best (IMHO).
Love these TNT pants! Pocket facing and waistband in light cotton. Omitted the flat front and tie.
Vests are every “wear” in RTW but the patterns for sewists are skimpy. I started with two Simplicity patterns, one with a shoulder dart and one a bust dart. Made a muslin and looked at all the changes needed so instead of reinventing the wheel I pulled out Burda 5869.
Omitted the stand collar. Used the sleeve facing as armhole facing. Pattern includes lining with a back facing. Omitted zip.
What I learned (I think):
keep the main fabric equal or heavier than the lining
Interface the hem when using the elenapatternstudio method. It was fun to do it again-it came a bit easier.
Garment Sewing Group January 2025
Wednesday, January 8, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, Thursday, January 9, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, January 11, 10:30, Sew Inviting , St. Paul (Sewing Lounge is closed first two weeks of January)
Well, maybe just Debbie and Kristin in their cars but…see you this morning at Lakes Makerie for Garment Sewing Group!
Debbie and I flew to Seattle to take the Stylemaker Coat Class in October. It filled up quickly-thanks to Debbie for getting us signed up early! The class was taught by Karen Dolen of #intostitches fame.
Our goal was to get our coats as close to finished as possible so we had already cut out and interfaced our coat pieces. Debbie and I made wearable muslins in October so we were pretty confident that fit wouldn’t be an issue.
Did I say we ate well, slept well and wanted for nothing?!?! It was a wonderful retreat, couldn’t have asked for better teacher, peers, food, lodging, etc. We both got our coat linings bagged and returned to Minnesota to add buttons, buttonholes, press and snip threads. Success!
Here is the write up from Garment Sewing Group sheets:
Debbie’s Garments:
Purple Winter Coat
Burda 6461, View A
Textured wool with silk/wool lining
1. The majority construction for this coat was done at Style Maker’s Retreat. Before the retreat I cut out the main fabric, applied all the interfacing and carefully marked all pattern pieces.
2. For October GSG I made view B from this pattern – short jacket with different collar – as a wearable muslin. This allowed me to tweak some fitting issues and focus on new and challenging construction techniques such as bound buttonholes, welt pockets, hem and facing lining, tabs and anchoring pockets while at the retreat. I learned so much!
3. If I made this coat or another one anytime soon I would make a few changes:
1. Add a hidden button placket – not fond of the snaps.
2. Change fold over front facing to sew on – I think the center front would be more “crisp.”
3. Increase the size of the pocket bag.
4. The coat retreat was a great experience.
*Hem/Lining finish link: elenapatternstudio – also found on Pinterest
*Continuous Binding link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4NHseVkF30&t=153s
*Tab Construction: Pinterest – henim0702
Purple Print Frill Blouse
Burda 6146, View A neckline with view B sleeves
Rayon
1. I petited between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. The front and back were shortened one inch between bust and waist. I shortened the sleeves two inches in length.
2. I omitted the front neck tie and added a snap for closure.
3. I found the pattern and directions frustrating at times. The pattern piece for the frill was too short to get a decent gathering look so I increased the length. The front facing is too long from the front opening and as a result it doesn’t want to stay put – too fussy.
4. I will make this again with some changes – I love the fabric.
Purple Turtleneck
Christine Johnson Travel Trio #331
94% Bamboo and 10%D (Fibers which are dyeable with disperse dyes, e.g. , polyester, nylon, acrylic, secondary acetate and cellulose triacetate.). In other words be sure to wash your fabric!
1. Another TNT pattern for me, especially when I am short on fabric and time!
2. I have petited this pattern between shoulder and bust, bust and waist – it is a curvy fit. I also removed two inches from length.
3. I had enough fabric to make the sleeves long which works for me for layering and the colder weather.
4. I am finding that I am not a fan of bamboo for garments due to too much wrinkling and pilling. I will continue to use this pattern but not the fabric.
Kristin’s Garments:
Raglan Wool Coat
The Assembly Line Car Coat
Wool with silk stretch lining (and flannel lined pockets!)
1. After making a short corduroy version last month I went up a size to give me more room for layering. Also added a center back seam and more length in the upper back with some success but could have used even more length.
2. As Debbie did, the coat was cut and interfaced throughout when I left for the retreat.
3. The wool was wonderful to work with if not a little thick at some turned corners. The silk lining was slippery but that’s what I needed.
4. Welt pockets were great. Added tabs to close sleeves a bit.
5. I didn’t change construction of collar to coat as planned because I got a crisper corner with the method in the pattern.
6. Making a coat makes almost every other garment seem simple!!
Final Boyfriend Shirt
The Assembly Line Oversized Shirt
Rayon twill
1. First off, I love the fabric. This was the third in a trio of patterns that came out all about the same time-
1. Closet Core Jenna Shirt
2. Maker’s Atelier The Shirt
3. Assembly Line Oversized Shirt
2. Pattern directions were good but not without error. Some words used are awkward but I am a fan of some of their patterns. The fabric gives this a great drape. I made just a stand collar with this pattern and omitted side seam pockets.
3. It was fun to make so many different looks with a change in fabric for these shirts. You may see one of them in a shacket soon!
December GSG
Wednesday, December 11, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, December 12, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and Fabric Swap
Saturday, December 14, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Other Classes:
Sew Social: Thursdays, 1-4 pm, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley, Nov. 14, 21, Dec. 5, 12
Open Studio: Wednesdays, 1-4 pm, Lakes Makerie, Mpls., Nov. 13, 20, Dec. 4, 11
Here’s the rest of the inspirational sewing we saw in November!
Here’s some of what we saw at Sewing Lounge on Saturday!
Join us on Wednesday at Lakes Makerie or Thursday at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley
Material Girl Sewing 