Saturday’s Makes in January
Author: Kristin
January Garment Sewing Group Handout
Garment Sewing Group
January 2024
Debbie’s Garments:
This is an unlined jacket pattern but since I was using a wool I wanted to line it. I drafted a pattern for the front and back lining. I did some “light” tailoring by interfacing all hems and using a wigum (sleeve head) in the sleeve cap. I also bagged the lining.
1. The collar piece in the pattern is rounded. However the pattern picture, line drawing and instruction sheet show the collar squared off. I adjusted the collar piece to look like pattern.
2. The pattern is labeled super easy. Hopefully even though the pattern does not mention stay stitching or understitching most sewers would use these techniques.
3. I appreciate the bust darts – gives the jacket less boxy look.
4. The pattern calls for hand sewn snaps that do not show for the closure. I don’t think I will use any closures.
1. I heard good things about this pattern so I thought I would give it a try and compare it to another TNT shirt pattern in my stash.
2. Fit changes that I made include shortening between shoulder and bust, removing 3 inches in length and a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. I did change order of construction because I like to work with the piece flat as long as possible.
4. The directions for the shirt are very good. They include the burrito method for the yoke and the collar and neckband directions are excellent.
5. The band is a sew on and the directions have you sew rs of band to ws of shirt which gives a clean finish. I used my standard machine for construction and French seams as well as my serger.
6. I feel it is a very good pattern and I will use it again but will soften the hemline curve and change the gathered yoke to a pleat.
1. This is the TNT shirt pattern I referred to above.
2. Some of the differences between the McCalls and Kwiksew pattern are that the seam allowance for KS is 1/4 inch, sleeve construction is flat and the band is cut on the front, no facing.
3. I used French seams as much as possible because of the color of the shirt. I am not sure I like the feel of the French seam on both shirts in the armhole.
4. Also the McCalls shirt has bust darts. You can easily add vertical darts on front and back of Kwik sew pattern to get a more fitted look.
5. I like both patterns and they will both be a TNT in my pattern stash.
February Garment Sewing Group
*Moved up one week – Wednesday, February 7, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St.Paul
Thursday, February 8th, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, February 10, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Several people have shown this pattern (free! only pay for printing) but I guess I wasn’t listening very well. It is made for boiled wool and has unfinished hems and outside facing seams. But the pattern was already cut out (I did wonder about the vent cut outs…
2. The velvet looked more refined so I didn’t expose any seams plus the fabric would have shed for a while and it also rolls.
3. The sleeves are extra long so you can fold them up so I shortened them.
4. The collar was single layer but I sewed two together and love the result.
5. The vents were angled up into the seam allowance-happy with that too.
6. I had three buttons but the thickness of the collar allowed only two so I put the last one on the pocket 🙂
1. Several people have also made this raglan turtleneck (neck has two pieces) and it was waiting in my pattern stash. Love raglans, especially when sewing for family and size range can’t be beat.
2. Also love the cuff (didn’t do the thumb hole). Finishes up a turtle so nicely.
3. The turtleneck is doubled and at first I thought too much but it grew on me. Great fit all over as usual for Jalie. Another favorite turtleneck pattern!!
Ruby Joggers/Paprika Patterns
1. I had an earlier pair in my closet that was seeing a lot of wear so I thought I’d try them again. I had thrown away the pattern (should have been a hint!) so had to reorder.
2. Chose my size but yoke in back was way too big.
3. Made some necessary changes and then some more! and they are OK but again the pattern will not stay in rotation (and I’ll make a note somewhere (?) to not try again.
4. I did learn one thing tho-the pocket bag that is totally sewn into the side seam gives a smoother finish for me than the pocket that is only partially sewn into seam and then hangs.
1. Beautiful vintage blouse with lots of tuck/darts at the waist but, alas, not for me! After much tailor tacking and knot tying, the blouse would not fit around me so out they all came!!
2. Lowered bust dart 1 inch and could have lowered a bit more.
3. Underarms were high along with tight circumference so 5/8” side seam became 1/4”.
4. Sleeves were 3/4 length so added about 3” and changed the cuff.
5. Stripes were fun-I’m tempted to buy more fabric and try some shadowing.
6. It was a fun sew-maybe again in summer and a larger size!!
Fashion TV to watch- Jan. 19, Disney “Cristobal Balenciaga” and Feb. 14, Apple TV “The New Look” about Christian Dior and contemporaries.
Saturday is a go!
Looks like you didn’t get much in the big city and we are plowed out so see you at The Sewing Lounge!!
January Makes by You
Fun meetings at Lakes Makerie and Creative Sewing! We’re hoping to be at The Sewing Lounge on Saturday morning at 10:30-Mother Nature willing…
A New Year Begins-Garment Sewing Group 2024
First the important info-
Garment Sewing Group meetings begin this Wednesday:
Wednesday, Jan. 10, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Thursday, Jan. 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and Fabric Swap
Saturday, Jan. 13, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
And if you want to read on-
I’ve been catching up on social media and some of the people have marvelous, creative, new plans for the new year-awesome!! Maybe it’s my age, but I can’t get that excited about the big plans. I’m working on the little, day by day improvements that may not look like much but I’m hoping they’ll add up (fingers crossed).
Above are the pajamas that got made-but not all delivered-to the grandkids (yes, there are 3 more sets somewhere).
And then the Kimberbear for the niece of Mom’s caregiver.
And the bridge we’ve been refurbishing at the farm.
So, all in all, a great start to the new year and my garments for January meetings are shaping up!!
Hope to see you in 2024-often!
December Wrap Up
Another month of creative and imaginative sewing!! Thanks for your continued attendance and interest in garment sewing. Here are photos from Wednesday and Thursday meetings.
Have a wonderful holiday celebrating in your favorite, comfy makes and gifting others with your talents! See you in January!!
December’s Saturday Pics
We meet for Garment Sewing Group tomorrow (Wednesday) at Sewing Lounge and finish up at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley with the fabric swap on Thursday. See you there!!
Also, for those Gudrun Sjoden fans-there’s a sale this weekend:
Gudrun Sjoden warehouse
5310 West 23rd St, SLP, 55416
-Dec 15 from 3-7 pm
-Dec 16 from 11 am – 3 pm
December Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. I did my standard petite length adjustments and narrow shoulder. On the sleeve I mistook the cut line for horizontal seam for the shorten/lengthen line so I wasn’t able to put in a horizontal seam as pattern directs.
2. I did not enjoy working with this fabric. It was necessary to use a walking foot and size 14 needle in my machine. The fabric is stiff and bulky and not very forgiving.
3. I used the Louise Cutting method for pockets (see example) and changed order of construction making it easier for fitting and working with the fabric.
4. I did a wrapped hem and used serger and bias binding for seam finishes.
5. Closures? – definitely not buttonholes! Many thanks to Kristin for putting in my snaps with her Kamsnap tool.
1. I did my standard shortening adjustments and also straightened out side seams – it’s a very curvy pattern.
2. Turtlenecks are a staple in my wardrobe. Making them out of fabulous fabric and getting the neck fit I want is a win-win. Also it was a nice break from sewing corduroy!
Autumn Paisley Print Shirtdress
Burda 5971, dress version
Rayon challis
1. In October I made the blouse version of this pattern. I had enough fabric to make the dress version thinking it would be perfect for Thanksgiving. The chances are high that it will become a blouse!
2. I did my standard shortening adjustments as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment. I also removed 4 inches from the hem length.
3. I changed the order of construction so I could do flat construction, i.e. collar before side seams.
4. Love the fabric but the dress – not so much.
Forest Green Knit/Woven Overlay Tee
1. This is a fun pattern that I have made before. The look and style can easily be altered by switching up colors, fabrics and textures.
Kristin’s Garments
Funnel Neck Sweater
Jalie Romy #4024
1. One of my favorite patterns-no front or back. Great fit with the funnel neck and dolman sleeves. Omitted the band at waist.
Butterick 6597 OOP
1. Omitted the wide waistband and cover stitched matching elastic instead.
2. Narrowed the side piece-there are no side seams in skirt.
1. Wanted to try the pattern in a lighter fabric. Used the waistband this time.
2. Comfortable and fits under jacket.
1. Very happy with this pattern. Loved that it was lined-inside looks good. Saved a lot of headaches on edge finishes.
2. Fabric was easy to work with. Zipper went in well.
3. Omitted side seam pockets but added a chest pocket on the inside. Made several mistakes but well worth the effort.
4. Neck band made to pattern. Height is great.
Sew House Seven Toaster, version 1
1. Also wanted to try this pattern in a lightweight knit.
2. Neckband doesn’t stand up -may stitch it folded to give extra stability.
Jalie Multi Sport Skort #2796/repurposed jacket
1. Have been seeing these winter skirts in Title Nine catalog and had to try them.
2. Used the zipper and pockets as is. The fabric didn’t separate which was helpful.
3. Bound the waistline with knit. Fun make. Fun to wear!
January 2024 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, January 10, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, January 11, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, January 13, 10:30 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
November Garment Sewing Group Wind Up
Just in the (St.) nick of time-here are the photos and notes from Debbie and Kristin’s November garments.
December Garment Sewing Group meetings are:
Saturday, Dec. 9 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Wednesday, Dec. 13 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, Dec. 14 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley-and Fabric Swap
All meetings begin at 10:30 am
Debbie’s Garments:
1. My inspiration came from the Artful Home Catalog.
2. Using a basic pattern I drew lines where to cut apart pattern and added seam allowances.
3. The most difficult part was deciding where each fabric piece should be placed.
4. Fun make and a great opportunity to use up bits and pieces of fabrics in stash.
Jalie 4018, Renee Pants-medium weight Ponte
1. This pattern goes together quickly and easy. I especially like the back waist being higher than front. Another TNT pattern for me.
2. Instead of zigzagging elastic to waist as pattern directs I serged it on.
1. This is an older pattern from my stash. I wanted something other than a classic shirt and this pattern fit the bill.
2. I did not have enough fabric for bow but I knew I could make a ruffle for neckline – I was inspired by a RTW blouse I saw in a catalog.
3. I did the following fit adjustments: shortened between shoulder and bust, between waist and hip and and removed one inch from length of sleeve.
4. For the ruffle I cut a bias strip 1 and1/2 times the measurement of neckline, pressed wrong sides together and then basted to neck edge. I added a bias strip along neck edge and ruffle to clean finish seams.
5. The fabric is a dream to work with and the pattern is an easy make.
1. This is the same blouse as above except I had plenty of fabric for the bow.
2. I did shorten length of sleeve one more inch – the camel sleeve is too long.
Kristin’s Garments
1. Started with Burda 7700 and omitted collar and sleeve, then started hacking away at armhole!! Needed it to be low to fit over purple tunic.
2. Separated layers and trimmed under layer and turned print toward back for hems and same for finishing seams on inside. I wanted the print to show on inside.
3. Not sure if I’ll do a button or just have fun with brooches.
1. Neck placement, back shoulder dart, shoulder position were great. I might even make the neck taller (maybe just a 1/4” seam allowance?)
2. Zipper extension was easy to do and gave nice weight to zipper-can’t feel zip against skin!
3. Design details were cool but…sleeves were 4+ inches too long and width under arms was a lot. To keep the proportions of the sleeve/cuff, I took a 3” tuck at shoulders which did some pretty cool things. Also shortened cuffs by 3/4”.
4. Sleeves are still a bit long but I’m happy with a one-off garment.
1. Made to pattern but used snaps instead of the elastic tie detail. Still love the sleeve hem facings, neck and fit of this pattern.
1. Great drafting and fit. Still might prefer a zip to the buttons in back. It’s warmer 🙂
2. Sleeves are hemmed to pattern but need to be shorter.
3. Had fun with selvedge detail at center back seam.
Need a Turkey Prep Break?
Jen at Everyday Style is holding a workshop Tuesday, Nov. 21 at noon CST. Debbie and I both like what she has to say.
We thought it might be fun to challenge everyone to wear a holiday outfit at our December Garment Sewing Group meetings. It would be one less thing to plan once the holidays arrive!!
Here’s the link to RSVP for the workshop-Holiday Style workshop
Happy Thanksgiving!!
Material Girl Sewing 