April Garment Sewing Group

May meetings start next week-

Wednesday, May 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester-carpool??

Thursday, May 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, May 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

April 2024 Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

**Itch To Stitch Mila Shirt/cotton and spandex**

1. I have made this shirt before and knew that I needed to make some fitting adjustments this time including shortening between the shoulder and bust, waist and hip and the hem length. I also shortened the length of the sleeves.

2. I eliminated shoulder gathers and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. The placket is wider than a traditional shirt and the neck opening for the collar is also wide.

4. I used larger buttons for the placket and the same style but smaller buttons for the narrow cuffs.

5. I find the Itch To Stitch patterns excellent in fit, construction details and instructions. However this is an older pattern from their collection so I probably will not make it again due to wide placket and neck opening.

**Itch To Stitch Delaware Jacket/linen**

1. I did my standard fit adjustments for Itch To Stitch patterns.

2. This was a slow but enjoyable make. There are 70 construction steps!

3. Precise pocket placement, stitching and zipper insertion was a challenge for me only because it was difficult to see due to the dark color. I did find the fabric and color forgiving though.

4. I am not sure about the drawstring feature. It seems like the buttonholes for the drawstring should be further from zipper edge and I am not a fan of the toggles.

5. It was a fun and very satisfying project. I would make it again but not for awhile!

**Adapted Love Notions Harmony Blouse pattern/rayon twill and linen**

1. I used the original blouse back for the new front.

Notice the button placket down the back 🙂

2. I used the front of the original blouse for bottom back section of new blouse.

3. To complete a full blouse back I made a yoke from a linen scrap for the upper portion of the new blouse back.

4. The sleeves are from the original with minor adjustments.

5. I used a serged bias edge for neckline finish.

6. I love the rayon twill. Even though I may just wear this around the house the refashion was worth it.

**Jalie Dolman Tee with adaptions/Avalana jersey knits**

1. This pattern is a TNT for me. I find it easy to use as a base to copy ready-to-wear tees or other tee patterns.

2. It was a fun, easy and quick make with great fabric.

Kristin’s Garments:

**Hot Patterns #1252/handwoven cotton and ponte**

1. This fabric wanted me to make it into a garment! The colors are perfect for spring/summer.

2. I made a trial garment in the other color way that I didn’t like so I’d know how the fabric behaved.

3. Ponte was used for the back piece and bands to give the handwoven fabric some stability. The weight was similar and it stabilized the seams where it was used.

4. The fabric didn’t have much stretch at all but tended to ravel. Serging or zigzagging was helpful.

5. I had to use both sides as I couldn’t choose a favorite.

Delta Cargo Pants/StyleArc Patterns/12 oz. Denim-pictured above)

1. Compared to my favorite Barry Pants (also a Stylearc pattern) they have more ease through hips and waist.

2. I didn’t add pockets as elastic waists don’t support my phone to say nothing of tools!!

**Komugi Overshirt Waffle Patterns/12 oz. Denim**

1. Fun pattern-instructions well done-drafting well done, markings, etc.

2. I made it to pattern and this wouldn’t be anything I could wear “over’ much more than a tank top 🙂 But the fit is very good-I went up 2 sizes for my hip and everything was great-except the narrowness of sleeves and the shoulders/back is a close fit. All good-just need to go up a size.

3. Denim was heavy and thick so I would do more seam allowance trimming on pockets-anything to decrease bulk.

4. Zipper chest pocket was cool but just too bulky and my cell didn’t fit after making it bigger so just left it off.

**Azuki Work Pants Waffle Patterns/12 oz. Denim**

1. Same as jacket above for quality of pattern. Fit was much better for the garment.

2. Fly instructions were a bit of a head scratcher but that might just be me.

3. Love all the technical pockets and used the ones I thought would be most helpful for me.

4. Nice to remember that denim is a stretchier woven fabric.

May Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, May 8, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester

Thursday, May 9, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, May 11, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Saturday at Lakes Makerie

Just catching up on April Garment Sewing Group pics-before next week when our May meetings begin at Ginny’s!!! Saturday’s meeting is at Sewing Lounge-not Lakes as we told you at April meetings!

Wednesday, May 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester (let me know if you want to carpool)

Thursday, May 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, May 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul (this is a change from GSG sheet!!)

And some beautiful knitting!

Thursday’s Makes

April meetings for Garment Sewing Group have begun-Thursday’s meeting was at Creative Sewing. Saturday we meet at Lakes Makerie and Wednesday at Sewing Lounge. Hope you can come!!

Sewing Lounge’s sale runs through Saturday, April 13!

**Modified Marceau Top/Sewing Workshop**

**Sinclair Patterns/Journey Raglan Hoodie**

**Friday Pattern Company/Ilford Jacket and Stylearc/Cheryl Stretch Woven Pant**

April Meetings Start Thursday!!

Hoping to chase away the clouds with some sunny sewing-meetings are at 10:30 am.

Thurs., April 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley (and Fabric Swap!)

Saturday, April 13, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Wednesday, April 17, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

March Makes Wednesday/Thursday Edition

**Simplicity 7315-modified-in cotton from Japan**

**“Husband Shirt” Lauren Boyfriend Shirt/StyleArc/white cotton**

**Self drafted vest and Vee Neck Dress/The Assembly Line**

**Cielo Dress/Closet Core**
**Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven and Loes Hinse skirt**

**Camp Shirt from KwikSew Book/Cotton** **and wearing Jalie #2795**

**2 Donny Shirts/Friday Pattern Co./Liberty of London and poly woven**

March Garment Sewing Group-Debbie & Kristin

Debbie’s Garments:

**Combined Jalie #2805 T-Shirts with Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops/Art Gallery cotton jersey knit with spandex**

1. To get the Monroe Turtleneck look I combined the neckline of the turtleneck with the body and sleeves of the Dolman. It was an easy hack, quick and fun to sew. A win-win.

**VickiSews Abbie Jacket/Plush boucle fleece**

1. Fitting adjustments include shortening front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust and shortening sleeve lengths. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed sleeves at hem and cut collar size down by 3/8 inch all around.

2. I did interface the collar, shoulder seams and center fronts and hems. Because I did not line the jacket I did not interface the dart tips.

3. I omitted the pockets also because I did not line the jacket.

4. It is a fun pattern with very good illustrated instructions. If I make it again I would use wool or a boucle.

**Elsi Tee from Bernina Inspiration Magazine/Cotton spandex jersey Avalana**

1. I love a boat neck tee. The neck on this tee is unique so I had to give it a try.

2. After trying to decipher the printed pattern included in the magazine I decided to trace the neckline pattern pieces only and used them as a template on my favorite tee shirt pattern (Butterick 6848.)

3. The instructions are vague and it seemed just wrong to construct the neckband using the pattern pieces the pattern supplies. Instead I cut a 2 and 1/2 inch strip for the front neckband and did the same for back neckline cutting that strip about 2 inches shorter than front neckband. I quartered the neckline, overlapped the front band over the back band at the shoulder seams and quartered the neckband. Matching the quarters I basted the band to the neckline. Once the band was basted and I was satisfied with the result I went on to complete the tee shirt easily.

4. The magazine is similar to the Burda magazine. Great for Inspiration but not so much for construction.

**Itch to Stitch Nussle Joggers/Viscose, nylon and spandex ponte**

1. This is a TNT (Tried and True) pattern for me. It is easy to construct, directions are excellent and works well with many types of knits.

April Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, April 11, 10:30, Creative Sewing Apple Valley

Saturday, April 13, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

*Wednesday, April 17, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

*Please note – this is the 3rd Wednesday of the month-not the second Wednesday that we usually schedule

Kristin’s Garments:

1. Thought it might be a nice boxy fit tee but not so much-wider neckline, wider shoulder but not quite drop.

2. Folded the balloon sleeve down to normal sleeve.

3. Neck edge was supposed to be turned under and stitched-no band. I added band and it stood up a bit-not small enough but also doesn’t choke 🙂

4. Fine pattern, just doesn’t earn a spot in my permanent collection.

**Monroe Turtleneck/Tessuti (free pattern)/Heavier gray knit**

1. “Somebody” said it was their favorite turtleneck-looser fitting-so I had to try.

2. Shortened and widened turtleneck and widened sleeve and armhole. Also tried the size 2 vs. size 3 body.

3. Sleeves are quite narrow, even in the Art Gallery knit.

4. After 3 tries I’m going back to “my” favorite turtleneck 🙂

**La Veste/Atelier Brunette/Wool blend**

1. Originally my muslin, but over time (and experience), I realized that the wide wale corduroy I had intended for the final garment wouldn’t be appropriate so carried on and made wool version my final.

2. Shortened the jacket and sleeves by 1 inch. Otherwise made to pattern with a few detours along the way.

3. The front and back yoke are one piece so the front yoke is on the bias. If I were to make again, I would try with the back on bias instead as the front stretched a bit and wouldn’t I rather have that in the back?

4. The other endearing feature of the pattern is the vents on sleeve and bottom hem. The technique, however, is what would be difficult on a thick fabric. It looks good in the drawing but doesn’t really show up when worn-for all the work that it took. Maybe deepen the hems/vents to 3”?

5. Otherwise the drafting was great, everything went together well. I shortened the body of the longer version by 2” and sleeve by 1”.

**Cheryl Stretch Pant/StyleArc/Stretch woven cotton**

1. Looking for a straight leg pattern but so many are soooo wide. Maybe what I want should be called relaxed leg? These are 20” at the hem-size 18.

2. Simple back dart and fold over elastic waist. I went up one size as I was in middle but may try down size also.

3. They are called a 7/8 length. I cut to pattern but lengthened at hem 1”.

March Makes-Saturday Edition

Saturday at the Sewing Lounge was packed with wonderful sewing-the fun continues Wednesday, March 13 at Lakes Makerie and Thursday, March 14 at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Don’t miss it!!

**Textile Center hat class/Karen Morris Millinery**

**Same as above but decorated headband**

**Sapporo/Novo Coat from Papercut Patterns**

**Simplicity 9647 Pant with clever “not enough fabric” modification**

**Beautiful topstitching and color blocking**

What We Saw at Lakes Makerie

Here are the makes from Saturday’s Garment Sewing Group meeting-new people too!

**Second Sewing for Kids/Kwiksew dress**

**Cap Sleeve Vest/The Assembly Line** **and Persephone Pant/Anna Allen**

**Merlo Field Tee/Sew House Seven in cotton knit**

**Tabor** **Vest/Sew House Seven in sweater knit**

**Two bamboo Toasters (Sew House Seven) on two totally** **contrasted testers**

**Designer detail** **from photo above**

February Garment Sewing Group

Another great month of inspirational sewing! Here are the photos and notes from Debbie and Kristin-

Garment Sewing Group

February 2024

Debbie’s Garments:

**Love Notions Largo Cargo Pants/cotton twill gabardine**

1. Fitting adjustments include shortening length 1 and 1/2 inches, narrow the leg width from my size at knee to smallest size at hem and straightening out hip curve. I also removed 1/4” from center back seam at waist for about 4 inches due to gapping.

2. I eliminated the strap and belt loops.

3. The pattern has several positives. The instructions are good and there is a video link for zipper insertion. I also like that the zipper shield is included. The waistband and facing are shaped nicely and enhances the overall look of the pants.

4. In my opinion there a few cons – the pocket flap should be interfaced. One side seam should be stitched then side pocket attached and then stitch remaining side seam. Most importantly, the pocket placement lines are difficult to decipher.

5. Overall I feel this is a good pattern. I like the crotch depth and contour waist. I would use this pattern again without the cargo pocket.

1. I shortened the length of the tee by 1 and 1/2 inches.

2. I narrowed the sleeves from the elbow to one inch less at hem.

3. I made the band into a split band.

4. The cons for this pattern is that the neck piece is a lot. The instructions include stay stitching and gathering sleeves before setting in. I don’t feel those steps are necessary on most knits. If I make it again I would remove some width from the neckband and maybe use pleats rather than gathers for the neckband.

**Simplicity 9275, Adapted/fleece and jersey knit**

1. I made this top last fall and thought I would try it again as a stash buster.

2. I was short on fabric so I used the jersey knit for neckband and pocket trim. I also needed to adjust the sleeves by adding a long cuff.

3. The tee does brighten up winter and uses up fabric scraps but I do not need to make this pattern again!

Upcoming Classes:

Sewing With Knits-One Day Intensive-Wednesday, February 28, 10-4 pm at Quilter’s Haven

Basic & Beyond Sergery-One Day Intensive-Thursday, February 29, 10 am-4 pm

Kristin’s Garments:

**Itch to Stitch Andes Jacket/fleece backed soft shell, stretch woven lining**

1. Followed directions exactly when making toile. But then I thought I was smarter than the pattern maker for my final garment!! A good argument for making the entire pattern-zips, pockets and all?!

2. Fit changes-I needed to up size for hips: instead of messing with the pocket area upper and lower piece I cut up into pattern and swung open as needed to avoid pocket area.

3. Drafting is great-all pieces fit together very well. Pocket zippers were in my stash. Ordered main zipper from Wawak and they came quickly but selection is limited for the dual seperating zippers but as long as the jacket is, I had to be able to zip up from bottom.

4. My narrow and regular walking feet were indispensable and hardworking (a Janome feature). Most seams were serged and then topstitched. Didn’t use coverstitch at all.

5. The zip is the last thing to go in and I didn’t put the zip in the toile before I started the final garment. That’s where I thought I was smarter and now I think maybe the pattern maker ran out of steam as the instructions for the zip are pretty basic and I had to do more filling in of the blanks at that point.

6. I was glad I did the zip after hood installation-less jacket to maneuver as I topstitched. A 30” zipper was perfect for the size that I made.

7. Wrinkles were an issue as they didn’t iron out. A run through the washer/dryer…??

8. I like all the details and the fabric choices. Am hoping this is an active wear jacket that will keep necessary parts warm.

9. The toile was fun also and I look forward to putting on a regular collar and adding finishing touches.

1. Pants: Added 1” length-should have added more. Pants turned out much baggier than the photo but I am reserving judgment till they come out of the dryer. Perhaps an ankle band?

1. Waistband is wide for just 1” elastic and kind of high. Will cut down.

2. Sweatershirt: As Debbie said, the sleeves are wide at wrist, neck is overdone but I like the feel of it (the fabric!!) and will remove the band (it’s all too long and looks better without) and put a tuck in the sleeve with a band as that makes it more snuggly 🙂

1. I did remove 2” from the neck band and used pleats instead of gathers but it’s a lot to put in and shouldn’t be attempted late at night!

2. I’m glad I put the pocket on-it was surprisingly flat and not pouchy-at least before laundering-

March Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, March 9, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St.Paul

Wednesday, March 13, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, March 14, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

February Makes

We’ve had a great start to our February meetings! Last chance is tomorrow at Lakes Makerie-10:30 am. Hope to see you—

**Self drafted motorcycle pants in Cordura-300 denier weight**

**Cotton knit dress from KwikSew Sewing for Children book**

**Simplicity 9272 knit jackets/Blouse-Zen from Now & Zen Sewing Workshop**

**Marley Shirt/StyleArc in wool challis**

**Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven in sweater knit**

**Toaster Sweater (other version) in short sleeves with Brussels Skirt/Loes Hinse with the perfect boots to boot!!**

**Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop in lightweight Japanese cotton**

**Vintage Board Shirt in Pendleton wool**

**Florence Shirt/Sewing Workshop back detail**

**Simplicity 9825 and 9471 mashup in brushed cotton**

**Final version of vintage and self drafted vest**

**One jacket became another-based on Vogue 8676**

	Bernard Graham on February Garment Sewing Group…
	Frankie on February Garment Sewing Group…
	Julie Tebay on December Meetings Ended With N…
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