Debbie and Kristin’s September Garments

September 2024

Garment Sewing Group

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Vogue 1925 Marcy Tilton, View A/herringbone ponte

1. Fitting – shortened between shoulder and bust and 3 more inches proportionally from length on front, back and sleeves. I also narrowed the width of the collar one inch.

2. I needed to shorten the jacket so much that the pocket placement was altered too much so I eliminated them.

3. The thickness of the fabric, intersecting of seams, dark color and herringbone design made topstitching a challenge. I used strong topstitching thread and tried a walking presser foot but found my standard foot to work the best.

4. I could not find the correct size of zipper – so once again I needed to shorten the zipper at neckline – bummer!

5. I like the jacket but would not make it again.

Simplicity 9715, View B in cotton basket weave

1. I named this blouse switch-a-roo because the end result doesn’t look like what is pictured on the pattern envelope!

2. I was drawn to this pattern because of the collar. It appears to be what I thought was a Revere collar. Doing some research I found a camp shirt collar with notches and a wing collar labeled as Revere collars. Oh well – no matter the name, I like how the collar on this pattern is constructed with the grown on facing and attached collar. I feel it lays better than the one piece collar I have used in the past.

3. The pattern is described as over sized and it certainly is – I went down 2 sizes.

4. View B is too short. No where in the pattern is the term cropped used.

5. To add more length I added a bias strip along the hem with the small amount of leftover fabric I had.

6. The edge of the cuffs were rounded – I squared them off. Once constructed and attached to the sleeve they felt and looked too bulky. I cut off the cuffs and added a bias strip cuff to the sleeve hems.

7. Many changes were made to this pattern-thus the name switch-a-roo. I would make it again my way just like Old Blue Eyes!

TNT Kwik Sew 3555

1. I liked the causal style of a RTW blouse and tried to copy the fabric and style . The fabric worked well but I may have made the blouse too short – again!

2. I eliminated the pocket but added contrast with buttons and bias tape added to button and cuff placket.

3. A fun fall make.

Olive Jeans -Jalie Eleanore , TNT pattern that I have made several times.

Kristin’s Garments:

Arbutus Robe Helen’s Closet/corduroy and Liberty of London

1. This is clearly advertised as a unisex pattern which usually makes me think the pattern will tend toward the male body proportions. After making the pattern twice now, that is not true.

2. Pattern directions and drafting are great. Other than the challenge of sewing on heavier wale corduroy, the sew went well. Collar seam is finished with Hong Kong finish and Liberty of London.

3. The eye opening came when I tried the robe on my husband-shawl collar and sleeves too short, waist and pocket placement too high. I had already gotten rid of the A-line of the side seams.

4. Bottom line: I like the robe for me but it doesn’t fit a man and there were no allusions to this in pattern directions. If only I had seen the robe on the body of the first receiver!!

One Pattern Three Ways

Vogue 9347 to pattern with shortened collar and cuffs

1. Pretty much to pattern in linen-other than the collar being half the height of the pattern, it is made to pattern. The front neck is rather low, the overlap at center front is 3” to accommodate large buttons. I think the combination of the low neck and overlap give the collar an asymmetric drape.

Vogue 9347-RTW Copy in window pane

1. Raised the neck all around to nothing at the back

2. Straightened and shortened the short sleeve

3. Used the pattern piece for sleeve detail but pleated to achieve the look and then released pleats at elbow

4. Omitted collar and made the front facing sewn on and ended at center front

5. Fabric was a joy to work with-so many ways to highlight the window pane effect and it was on grain so very easy to match!!

Vogue 9347-RTW Copy in gauze

1. Used the pattern pieces as above but placed center front on fold

2. Gathered the sleeve piece at wrist and finished with a band

3. Finished neck with bias strip

Places to go-people to see:

Frocktails! A great reason to dress/sew your best and see and be seen 🙂

Saturday, October 5, 6-10 pm, Fulton Brewery, 414 N. 6th Ave., Mpls, $125 use materialgirls10 for discount

Road Trip to Kansas City/Topeka-October 28-31

Get out of town and visit Asiatica (an amazing company that upcycles vintage kimono) and The Sewing Workshop/Linda Lee. We’ll schedule the visits and let you know hotels, etc. You will need to organize your carpool or fit in with another. Not a handholding/we’ll take care of all the details trip-more of an “I’m going, would you like to go at the same time? This is where I’m staying and where I’ll stop.”

October Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, October 9, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester

Thursday, October 10, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, October 12, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Last Month’s (July) Garment Sewing Group

***One more GSG meeting in August-Wednesday, Aug. 21 at Lakes Makerie!!

Debbie and Kristin’s garments:

July 2024

Garment Sewing Group

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Bernina Inspiration Magazine Pattern/Cotton stretch woven for jacket-Art Gallery rayon for lining-bamboo ribbing for bands

1. The fit – I shortened length between shoulders and bust and also between waist and hip. Unfortunately I neglected to shorten the the neckband and as a result it was too long for neck edge. I didn’t figure that out until almost too late. Just one reason I am not pleased with this make.

2. The pattern-the directions are few and too often vague. Many places on the pattern pieces should have a notch to match pieces together. For example, the front and back of sleeve armhole. There is no mention of interfacing center fronts for zipper.

3. The construction-the serger is often used in directions-definitely a plus. The zipper is inserted last and the lining is bagged. The lining at zipper needs to be slip stitched. I think you could leave an opening in one side seam, insert zipper in main fabric and lining and then sew up opening in side seam.

4. The bottom band goes around the entire jacket. I would have liked to have a main fabric piece on both sides of zipper. Sewing the zipper to the ribbing wasn’t pleasant.

5. Finding ribbing and zipper to go with jacket was difficult. If the jacket front was up closer to neck I may have found a better length of zipper. Having too long of a zipper generally doesn’t look the greatest In my opinion.

6. I wasn’t successful finding the correct zipper to make the jacket reversible.

7. This was an okay make – if there is a next time I would pay attention to what I listed above and make changes for a more successful project.

* Tee from ribbing is a TNT pattern that I use often. I learned the hard way that I needed to go down a size or two due to negative ease.

Lillie Bishop Sleeve Blouse/Mocha Patterns-Navy/tan cotton batik

1. Fit – Did my standard petiting for length. No issues there.

2. The pattern – There are two back designs. One has a yoke and pleats, the other is a full back. The directions are clear and concise and the construction is all done by machine – no slip stitching. I feel the pattern runs small in size, especially in hip area.

3. For this make I “faced” the yoke and used the burrito roll for construction.

4. I evened out the front and back hems and did a narrow hem rather than a faced hem.

5. The width of the cuff for the sleeve was much narrower than pattern shows so I added 3/4 inch in width to cuff pattern – much easier to work with.

6. I liked this pattern so I made it again!

Second Lillie Bishop Sleeve Blouse/Mocha Patterns-Eyelet for main fabric-cotton poplin for front and back lining

1. For this make I lined the front and full back. I thought a facing for the neckline would be too heavy so instead I used a serged bias strip for the v-neck.

2. The main fabric and lining are stitched together at side seams and also at the 5/8 inch hem.

3. The sleeves are not lined. I used the selvage edge of the lining for the cuffs.

4. A fun make that seems trendy but not too frilly!

Kristin’s Garments:

Simplicity 1358-Cotton jersey

1. Wanted a sleep tank and this pattern has a center front seam (and back too) so it made the vee very easy.

2. Watched a video from Closet Core about an armhole binding that mimics my Eddie Bauer tank. They used a 5/8” seam allowance for the binding but that seemed too wide so I tried 3/8”. Applied arm hole band, single layer, right sides together, wrapped binding around seam allowance and cover stitched and trimmed excess. I like the look.

True Bias Patterns-French terry and activewear knit

1. French terry version-used fold over elastic for pocket band.

2. Omitted ankle band on activewear version.

3. Put pleats in activewear version. Rise needs to be higher or elastic looser (and wear them lower 🙂

Lillie Blouse/Mocha Patterns-plaid linen

1. Just had to try another puff sleeve pattern and then I realized how close it was to Burda 6146 that I made previously. The Mocha pattern doesn’t have a bust dart-Burda does. Mocha has a back yoke option. I was going to do the yoke but started cutting the regular back so went with it!

2. Compared front and back armhole and they were equal plus the back neck seemed low so I cut 1/2” from front shoulders and did nothing to back. I also went down a size for the sleeve to accommodate the change. It’s a big sleeve so should be no problem.

3. Very happy with the top. Leveled the hem and sleeve cuffs are to pattern and serged to sleeve after sewing the side/underarm seam.

*Please Note – GSG Dates will not be the second week of the month in August.

August Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

A New Year Begins-Garment Sewing Group 2024

First the important info-

Garment Sewing Group meetings begin this Wednesday:

Wednesday, Jan. 10, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Thursday, Jan. 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and Fabric Swap

Saturday, Jan. 13, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

And if you want to read on-

I’ve been catching up on social media and some of the people have marvelous, creative, new plans for the new year-awesome!! Maybe it’s my age, but I can’t get that excited about the big plans. I’m working on the little, day by day improvements that may not look like much but I’m hoping they’ll add up (fingers crossed).

Above are the pajamas that got made-but not all delivered-to the grandkids (yes, there are 3 more sets somewhere).

And then the Kimberbear for the niece of Mom’s caregiver.

And the bridge we’ve been refurbishing at the farm.

So, all in all, a great start to the new year and my garments for January meetings are shaping up!!

Hope to see you in 2024-often!

Last of October Sewing Inspiration

We finished October meetings at Ginny’s in Rochester. Won’t return till the snow is over 😦

New class starting Thursday, November 2-Garment Sewing 2.0, 10-12 pm at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Meant for those of you coming back to sewing for yourself and not sure where to start-indie patterns, new fabrics, changed body!!! Make a garment while brushing up on skillzzzz.

Sienna Jacket-Grainline Studios and Love Notions Aria Shirt
Back details of Sienna Jacket
Archer Shirt-StyleArc Patterns
Butterick 6172 Top

Garment Sewing Group

September 2023

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 7062 pant/stretch denim and Simplicity 9275/cotton interlock

Burda 7062-I like the contour waistband, side zip and ankle slits.

Simplicity 9275, View A, without pockets

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. Quick and easy make and the fabric was also easy to sew.

2. Due to weight of fabric I did a single layer hem versus a narrow hem as pattern instructs.

McCalls MP457/7194 OOP-cotton/poly blend

1. TNT pattern that is easily hacked. The fabric makes this Tee.

Zipper Sleeved Tee/Vogue 1635/blended double knit

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeves. Also shortened sleeve length by one inch and length of body 2 inches.

2. I appreciated the pattern instructions regarding cutting interfacing – nice tip.

3. To create less bulk and to construct as much as the garment flat I changed the order of construction. I constructed the left sleeve with zipper first rather than what the pattern instructs. I also do shoulder seams, neck edge before any side seams if possible.

4. The pattern instructions lack any mention of clean finishing zipper edge. No mention of serger – instead you are instructed to double stitch.

5. It’s a fun pattern that puts a standard tee  up a notch. 

Last of my summer Makes:

Grainline Studio Willow Tank/rayon

1. Shortened 1 inch between waist and hip.

2. Changed order of construction – Stitch one shoulder seam, apply first strip of bias binding, stitch other shoulder seam and complete binding construction. I used serged wrapped method of applying binding.

3. Great pattern – definitely will become a TNT.

Love Notions Classic Tee/cotton interlock
McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848 top and Jalie Eleonore pant

Kristin’s Garments

Alta Tee/VikiSews/cotton knit
Alta Tee/VikiSews/rayon knit

1. Looking for an oversized, but not sloppy, tee.

2. Klimt fabric is cotton and neckband fit pretty close.

3. Navy is rayon and heavier and drapier.

4. Correct pattern, great basic.

Tarifa Tee French Navy Patterns/rayon and cotton knits

1. Stripe is rayon/botanical print is cotton. Fun pattern.

2. Front hem shorter than back.

Donny Shirt Friday Pattern Company/linen

1. Fun shirt pattern with back yoke and gathered back.

2. Instructions for front yoke are very good.

3. Hand stitched hems.

Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/lightweight denim
Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/flannel

1. This pattern is a bit narrower than Barry Pant/Stylearc and not quite as bubbly.

2. Hem facing and 3 darts make the leg shape. I added 3” to length.

3. Lots of interesting sewing techniques, especially the pockets and paper bag waistband but I didn’t want those options.

MultiSport Skort Jalie Patterns/activewear knit

1. Added 4” to length of skirt and pant underneath.

2. Fabric was good to sew on. Clips were easier than pins.

3. Made waistband half the width but the stretch of knit was different and wish I would have made it wider.

October Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, October 11, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, October 12, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, October 14, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester  

Change of Venue for Thursday Meetings

First off, Saturday, July 8th, is our July Garment Sewing Group meeting at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester. If you’d like to carpool please email or text Kristin @ materialgirlsewing@gmail.com/952.201.3863

Secondly, Wednesday, July 12th, we are at the Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.

Here’s the change: Thursday, July 13, we will meet at Creative Sewing, 14861 Granada Av., Apple Valley. Fabric swap will continue!

We’ve had a long and wonderful run at First Sewing but feel it’s time for a change-just when you thought you knew the schedule!!

Creative Sewing has agreed to let us rent their classroom space on Thursdays for Garment Sewing Group and Sew Social. We will also teach serger classes there on Thursdays.

We tried to stay a bit more central but churches didn’t seem a good fit as we’d have to bring more supplies. Most stores have small classrooms (JoAnn/Edina converted theirs into an order processing center). On the other hand, it is more south and we always had new people come to the SR Harris meeting-we assume it was a location thing?

The store is just off Cedar and 42. We hope you’ll give it a try if Thursday is your favorite meeting to attend.

One of our graduate’s latest projects

May Inspiration at First Sewing

Our first meeting at First Sewing after their move-a wonderful light filled space with plenty of tables!

We’re at Quilter’s Haven in Rosemount on Saturday morning (10:30), May 13, for our last May meeting.

First up, some great envelopes for PDF pattern storage

Here’s the link for the envelopes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T7DNQKL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Lois Dress from Tessuti Fabrics
With a granddaughter on both teams, who does one cheer for? BOTH!
Simplicity 8177 long vest
Nicks Dress and Blouse by Closet Core
Back view of Nicks
Tea House Dress by Sew House Seven
Remy Top by Sew House Seven and Valencia Pant by Sewing Workshop
Cottage Shirt by Sewing Workshop and Bob Pant from StyleArc
No-Zip Skirt by Blue Dot Patterns
Highly recommended reading-for those interested 🙂

Last of April Photos

This is the Lakes Makerie owner’s daughter in Burnside Bibs from Sew House Seven. Several of us bit hard and bought the pattern (I have the fabric in my stash-still some in the store when we were there. We left a few patterns at the store for you to buy or it is now on sale and they have some fun free extensions for the pattern. Hmmm…might have to get busy 🙂

Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs
Metra Blazer/Love Notions in knit
Self drafted pattern using scraps
#2 same as above
Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Fun back detail on Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Mini Marcel/Chalk and Notch
Simplicity 1318
Ashton/Helen’s Closet
Vogue 1277/multiple fabrics and stitching
McCalls 7061
OOP KwikSew with self drafted cuff
Helen’s Closet Moss Jacket
Fringe Dress/Chalk and Notch (there’s a mini version also)
Trio Shirt/Sewing Workshop and Burda 7400 pant
Great warm weather top/can’t remember pattern #
Stanton Tee/Cashmerette
Blanca Flight Suit/Closet Core
In case you need a new tool! Rave reviews!

Wednesday’s Sewing Inspiration

Our very spring-ish meeting at Sewing Lounge today was wonderful! Thursday we’ll be at First Sewing and fabric swapping. Saturday is at Lakes Makerie-hope you can make it!!!

Here’s the link for the YouTube video Debbie mentioned-https://youtu.be/RWfxYYb165k. Enjoy!

George & Ginger 40K Sway Top-free!
Sewing Workshop Maison Joggers with a few adjustments 🙂
Sewing Workshop Picasso Top-also a few adjustments
Sew House Seven Toaster One
And Toaster Two!
Beautiful trim on an Onde Jacket/Sewing Workshop
Bernie’s Award Winning Shirt
Ready to Sew Janis Top
Closet Core Sienna #1
Sienna #2
Sienna #3
Back detail
Sentosa Tank Itch to Stitch
Dawn Jeans by Megan Nielsen
McCalls 8047 Jumpsuit

Busy Sewing?

Spring sewing can be an antidote to the cold and wind (so can wine and a good movie!) See below what one mother daughter team accomplished over spring break-

We’re sewing for Garment Sewing Group which is coming up!

Wednesday, April 12 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, April 13 at First Sewing (and Fabric Swap)

Saturday, April 15 at Lakes Makerie

Hope you can make it! And Happy Easter!!

Here’s what Brenda and her daughter did during break-

She’s 5’10 with curves and chose the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans pattern
Just a couple muslins and they completed 3 pair-couldn’t wait to get back to campus to show off her handy work!
Mom did zipper fly construction-rivets were the biggest headache. Daughter did cut out, construction and multiple yards of topstitching.
Fun part was choosing orphan scraps for pocket bags and inside waistbands
And the stitch design on back pockets

Pretty awesome-great work!! Thanks for sharing-

Here’s a link to the Dawn jean pattern and the description:

Classic high-waisted rigid jean pattern set. Includes four cuts and multiple lengths for tall, regular, and cropped. Pattern features a high rise to sit on the natural waist, button fly, close fit through the waist and hips, and classic jeans details.

View A is a tapered-leg jean. View B is a straight leg jean. View C is a wide leg jean. View D is a jean short.

Inspired by our hunt to find the perfect pair of vintage jeans this pattern will fulfill all of your vintage jean dreams!

Skill: 3/5