May Garment Sewing Group/Debbie and Kristin

Debbie’s Garments:

Style Arc Smith Woven Jacket/100% textured cotton

1. The design features on this jacket caught my eye. It has a front and back yoke, inverted pleat, hidden button placket, inverted flap on sleeves and a hefty hem.

2. I did my necessary shortening fit adjustments as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. The pattern instructions are clear but concise. However, top stitching widths were not consistent so I needed to pay attention or just do my own thing!

4. I would make this jacket again with a few changes, such as lengthening and lining the sleeves.

Itch To Stitch Islares Top/Avalana Sutton spandex jersey

1. Besides my standard fitting adjustments I decreased the front and back neck width by putting in a dart on the paper pattern before cutting out fabric.

2. I enjoy using Itch To Stitch patterns. The fit, directions, and illustrations are great for beginners and seasoned sewists!

Lined Summer Vest, Butterick 6745, View C

Main fabric is cotton, lining is Liberty of London

1. I shortened the length between the shoulder and bust by 1/4 inch. I am thinking I should have used 3/8 to 1/2 inch for that shortening task.

2. I chose to topstitch entire vest – that tends to keep the lining from peeking out.

3. Not a quick make – you basically make two vests and then do lots of burrito methods to construct lining – patience is necessary.

4. Pants are the Jalie Vanessa made last year from same fabric as vest.

Cream/Camel Stripe Tee/Love Notions Classic Tee in French terry

1. This is a TNT pattern, especially for warmer months when I want a more relaxed fit but not oversized.

2. As always I did my shortening adjustments and did a shirt tail hem. I also added cuffs to the sleeves because I did not have enough fabric to make a 3/4 sleeve length.

3. Fun and easy make with lots of versatility. Also the fabric doesn’t have a lot of stretch but it is yummy to work with and wear.

June Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 12, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, June 13, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, June 15, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester

Kristin’s Garments:

Itch to Stitch Islares Top in cotton spandex knit

1. Great directions and drafting. Widened at hips and took in the shoulder dart for a less sloped shoulder.

2. All neck edges and facing are interfaced per pattern.

Jalie Marie Claude hoodie/Activewear knit

1. I’ve made the pattern before but not the hoodie. As I was folding the cuff to sew, I realized how little stretch the fabric had!! Assumptions always get me in trouble! So it’s a bit more close fitting than I was thinking but a perfect solution.

Love Notions Tinley Skort/nylon woven for skirt/mesh for biker shorts

1. New pattern from Love Notions. Made for knits or wovens-just size up or down.

2. Went together well. I didn’t put the elastic in channels, just used 1.5” elastic. Length is to pattern. She has a 3” gap between sizes so I took in the back after trying on.

3. Had to try the mesh for the biker shorts. Added a hem band to leg to lengthen and stretch better. Much cooler and lighter in weight than other options. But I’d have to do a test run before endorsing wholeheartedly 🙂

Arare Pullover by Waffle Patterns/nylon woven

1. After last month’s experience with the Work Shirt I sized up 3 sizes as I wanted a loose fit. I kept the shaping in side seams and center back.

2. Great details in the front zip-guard at the top and tab at the bottom. Lots of pocket options again but I chose the kangaroo but made it smaller for my cell phone. Great pocket with flap.

3. Happy with sizing. Pattern calls for drawstrings at hem but I omitted. I’d make this again!

Burda 6146/Stretch woven rayon

1. Love the fabric but it is very stretchy-which is good-and sometimes difficult to manipulate. So I chose a more simple woven pattern that would take advantage of the stretch across the back. I have made the view with the ruffled neck and heard that the vee neck was great.

2. I agree! The vee is modest and the wide elastic gathered cuff band is perfect. Can’t wait to make more of these!

Thursday’s Makes

April meetings for Garment Sewing Group have begun-Thursday’s meeting was at Creative Sewing. Saturday we meet at Lakes Makerie and Wednesday at Sewing Lounge. Hope you can come!!

Sewing Lounge’s sale runs through Saturday, April 13!

Modified Marceau Top/Sewing Workshop
Sinclair Patterns/Journey Raglan Hoodie
Sinclair Patterns/Journey Raglan Hoodie
Burda 5855
Favorite tee in waffle knit
Sewing Workshop/Hudson Top
Friday Pattern Company/Ilford Jacket and Stylearc/Cheryl Stretch Woven Pant
Love Notions/Crescendo Jeans
McCalls 7948
Paper Theory/Olya Shirt
Olya Shirt Sleeve Detail

April Meetings Start Thursday!!

Hoping to chase away the clouds with some sunny sewing-meetings are at 10:30 am.

Thurs., April 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley (and Fabric Swap!)

Saturday, April 13, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Wednesday, April 17, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

The pockets that made the cut-
And the pockets that didn’t…

March Makes Wednesday/Thursday Edition

Simplicity 7315-modified-in cotton from Japan
Helmi Dress/Named Patterns/cotton
“Husband Shirt” Lauren Boyfriend Shirt/StyleArc/white cotton
Self drafted vest and Vee Neck Dress/The Assembly Line
Tamarack Jacket/Grainline Studio
Salsa Skirt/MacPhee Patterns
Bog Coat in a knit fabric
Vintage Sweater and Skirt
Cielo Dress/Closet Core
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven and Loes Hinse skirt
Burda 5855/stretch cotton
New Look 6585/double faced wool
Ikina 2/Sewing Workshop
Trio Top/Sewing Workshop
Vogue 1868/cotton gauze and cotton
Hudson Pant/True Bias/Bamboo knit
Camp Shirt from KwikSew Book/Cotton and wearing Jalie #2795
2 Donny Shirts/Friday Pattern Co./Liberty of London and poly woven
Liesl & Co. Wynwood Robe/cotton
Milla Top/Just Patterns
Hand knit Sweater
Amazing digitized banner!

March Garment Sewing Group-Debbie & Kristin

Debbie’s Garments:

Combined Jalie #2805 T-Shirts with Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops/Art Gallery cotton jersey knit with spandex

1. To get the Monroe Turtleneck look I combined the neckline of the turtleneck with the body and sleeves of the Dolman. It was an easy hack, quick and fun to sew. A win-win.

VickiSews Abbie Jacket/Plush boucle fleece

1. Fitting adjustments include shortening front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust and shortening sleeve lengths. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed sleeves at hem and cut collar size down by 3/8 inch all around.

2. I did interface the collar, shoulder seams and center fronts and hems. Because I did not line the jacket I did not interface the dart tips.

3. I omitted the pockets also because I did not line the jacket.

4. It is a fun pattern with very good illustrated instructions. If I make it again I would use wool or a boucle.

Elsi Tee from Bernina Inspiration Magazine/Cotton spandex jersey Avalana

1. I love a boat neck tee. The neck on this tee is unique so I had to give it a try.

2. After trying to decipher the printed pattern included in the magazine I decided to trace the neckline pattern pieces only and used them as a template on my favorite tee shirt pattern (Butterick 6848.)

3. The instructions are vague and it seemed just wrong to construct the neckband using the pattern pieces the pattern supplies. Instead I cut a 2 and 1/2 inch strip for the front neckband and did the same for back neckline cutting that strip about 2 inches shorter than front neckband. I quartered the neckline, overlapped the front band over the back band at the shoulder seams and quartered the neckband. Matching the quarters I basted the band to the neckline. Once the band was basted and I was satisfied with the result I went on to complete the tee shirt easily.

4. The magazine is similar to the Burda magazine. Great for Inspiration but not so much for construction.

Itch to Stitch Nussle Joggers/Viscose, nylon and spandex ponte

1. This is a TNT (Tried and True) pattern for me. It is easy to construct, directions are excellent and works well with many types of knits.

April Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, April 11, 10:30, Creative Sewing Apple Valley

Saturday, April 13, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

*Wednesday, April 17, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

*Please note – this is the 3rd Wednesday of the month-not the second Wednesday that we usually schedule

Kristin’s Garments:

Burda 6059/Green activewear knit

1. Thought it might be a nice boxy fit tee but not so much-wider neckline, wider shoulder but not quite drop.

2. Folded the balloon sleeve down to normal sleeve.

3. Neck edge was supposed to be turned under and stitched-no band. I added band and it stood up a bit-not small enough but also doesn’t choke 🙂

4. Fine pattern, just doesn’t earn a spot in my permanent collection.

Monroe Turtleneck/Tessuti (free pattern)/Heavier gray knit
Monroe in Art Gallery stripe knit

1. “Somebody” said it was their favorite turtleneck-looser fitting-so I had to try.

2. Shortened and widened turtleneck and widened sleeve and armhole. Also tried the size 2 vs. size 3 body.

3. Sleeves are quite narrow, even in the Art Gallery knit.

4. After 3 tries I’m going back to “my” favorite turtleneck 🙂

La Veste/Atelier Brunette/Wool blend

1. Originally my muslin, but over time (and experience), I realized that the wide wale corduroy I had intended for the final garment wouldn’t be appropriate so carried on and made wool version my final.

2. Shortened the jacket and sleeves by 1 inch. Otherwise made to pattern with a few detours along the way.

3. The front and back yoke are one piece so the front yoke is on the bias. If I were to make again, I would try with the back on bias instead as the front stretched a bit and wouldn’t I rather have that in the back?

4. The other endearing feature of the pattern is the vents on sleeve and bottom hem. The technique, however, is what would be difficult on a thick fabric. It looks good in the drawing but doesn’t really show up when worn-for all the work that it took. Maybe deepen the hems/vents to 3”?

5. Otherwise the drafting was great, everything went together well. I shortened the body of the longer version by 2” and sleeve by 1”.

Cheryl Stretch Pant/StyleArc/Stretch woven cotton

1. Looking for a straight leg pattern but so many are soooo wide. Maybe what I want should be called relaxed leg? These are 20” at the hem-size 18.

2. Simple back dart and fold over elastic waist. I went up one size as I was in middle but may try down size also.

3. They are called a 7/8 length. I cut to pattern but lengthened at hem 1”.

March Makes-Saturday Edition

Saturday at the Sewing Lounge was packed with wonderful sewing-the fun continues Wednesday, March 13 at Lakes Makerie and Thursday, March 14 at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Don’t miss it!!

Fairy Godmother/Peony Dress
Freda Knit Top/StyleArc
Wearing Milla Top/Just Patterns
Sanda Coat/Merchant & Mills
Butterick 6863
Textile Center hat class/Karen Morris Millinery
Same as above but decorated headband
Sapporo/Novo Coat from Papercut Patterns
Simplicity 9647 Pant with clever “not enough fabric” modification
Simplicity 2508
Beautiful topstitching and color blocking

December Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 5941, View A-Cotton/spandex stretch wide wale corduroy

1. I did my standard petite length adjustments and narrow shoulder. On the sleeve I mistook the cut line for horizontal seam for the shorten/lengthen line so I wasn’t able to put in a horizontal seam as pattern directs.

2. I did not enjoy working with this fabric. It was necessary to use a walking foot and size 14 needle in my machine. The fabric is stiff and bulky and not very forgiving.

3. I used the Louise Cutting method for pockets (see example) and changed order of construction making it easier for fitting and working with the fabric.

4. I did a wrapped hem and used serger and bias binding for seam finishes.

5. Closures? – definitely not buttonholes! Many thanks to Kristin for putting in my snaps with her Kamsnap tool.

Kwik Sew 4069 OOP/jersey knit and Burda 5971/rayon challis

1. I did my standard shortening adjustments and also straightened out side seams – it’s a very curvy pattern.

2. Turtlenecks are a staple in my wardrobe. Making them out of fabulous fabric and getting the neck fit I want is a win-win. Also it was a nice break from sewing corduroy!

Autumn Paisley Print Shirtdress

Burda 5971, dress version

Rayon challis

1. In October I made the blouse version of this pattern. I had enough fabric to make the dress version thinking it would be perfect for Thanksgiving. The chances are high that it will become a blouse!

2. I did my standard shortening adjustments as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment. I also removed 4 inches from the hem length.

3. I changed the order of construction so I could do flat construction, i.e. collar before side seams.

4. Love the fabric but the dress – not so much.

Forest Green Knit/Woven Overlay Tee

McCalls 7247, View B/ponte and textured cotton

1. This is a fun pattern that I have made before. The look and style can easily be altered by switching up colors, fabrics and textures.

Kristin’s Garments

Funnel Neck Sweater

Jalie Romy #4024 and Butterick 6597/activewear knit

Jalie Romy #4024

1. One of my favorite patterns-no front or back. Great fit with the funnel neck and dolman sleeves. Omitted the band at waist.

Butterick 6597 OOP

1. Omitted the wide waistband and cover stitched matching elastic instead.

2. Narrowed the side piece-there are no side seams in skirt.

Jalie Romy #4024/rayon knit

1. Wanted to try the pattern in a lighter fabric. Used the waistband this time.

2. Comfortable and fits under jacket.

Burda 5869/Merchant & Mills/linen jacquard

1. Very happy with this pattern. Loved that it was lined-inside looks good. Saved a lot of headaches on edge finishes.

2. Fabric was easy to work with. Zipper went in well.

3. Omitted side seam pockets but added a chest pocket on the inside. Made several mistakes but well worth the effort.

4. Neck band made to pattern. Height is great.

Sew House Seven Toaster, version 1/rayon knit and Jalie Multi Sport Skort #2796/repurposed jacket

Sew House Seven Toaster, version 1

1. Also wanted to try this pattern in a lightweight knit.

2. Neckband doesn’t stand up -may stitch it folded to give extra stability.

Jalie Multi Sport Skort #2796/repurposed jacket

1. Have been seeing these winter skirts in Title Nine catalog and had to try them.

2. Used the zipper and pockets as is. The fabric didn’t separate which was helpful.

3. Bound the waistline with knit. Fun make. Fun to wear!

January 2024 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, January 10, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, January 11, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, January 13, 10:30 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Need a Turkey Prep Break?

Jen at Everyday Style is holding a workshop Tuesday, Nov. 21 at noon CST. Debbie and I both like what she has to say.

We thought it might be fun to challenge everyone to wear a holiday outfit at our December Garment Sewing Group meetings. It would be one less thing to plan once the holidays arrive!!

Here’s the link to RSVP for the workshop-Holiday Style workshop

Happy Thanksgiving!!

Sewing Machine For Sale

Janome MemoryCraft 6700

I’ve upgraded to the Janome M7 and the grandkids are all coming for Thanksgiving-I need some space!

Asking price $1500-will let you have it for $1250 if we can make the exchange on Sunday, 11/19.

Walking foot, amazing buttonhole foot and more!

Well cared for, easy to use, hardworking machine with great lighting and lots of workspace.

Please text 952-201-3863 if interested.