March Makes Wednesday/Thursday Edition

Simplicity 7315-modified-in cotton from Japan
Helmi Dress/Named Patterns/cotton
“Husband Shirt” Lauren Boyfriend Shirt/StyleArc/white cotton
Self drafted vest and Vee Neck Dress/The Assembly Line
Tamarack Jacket/Grainline Studio
Salsa Skirt/MacPhee Patterns
Bog Coat in a knit fabric
Vintage Sweater and Skirt
Cielo Dress/Closet Core
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven and Loes Hinse skirt
Burda 5855/stretch cotton
New Look 6585/double faced wool
Ikina 2/Sewing Workshop
Trio Top/Sewing Workshop
Vogue 1868/cotton gauze and cotton
Hudson Pant/True Bias/Bamboo knit
Camp Shirt from KwikSew Book/Cotton and wearing Jalie #2795
2 Donny Shirts/Friday Pattern Co./Liberty of London and poly woven
Liesl & Co. Wynwood Robe/cotton
Milla Top/Just Patterns
Hand knit Sweater
Amazing digitized banner!

March Garment Sewing Group-Debbie & Kristin

Debbie’s Garments:

Combined Jalie #2805 T-Shirts with Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops/Art Gallery cotton jersey knit with spandex

1. To get the Monroe Turtleneck look I combined the neckline of the turtleneck with the body and sleeves of the Dolman. It was an easy hack, quick and fun to sew. A win-win.

VickiSews Abbie Jacket/Plush boucle fleece

1. Fitting adjustments include shortening front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust and shortening sleeve lengths. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed sleeves at hem and cut collar size down by 3/8 inch all around.

2. I did interface the collar, shoulder seams and center fronts and hems. Because I did not line the jacket I did not interface the dart tips.

3. I omitted the pockets also because I did not line the jacket.

4. It is a fun pattern with very good illustrated instructions. If I make it again I would use wool or a boucle.

Elsi Tee from Bernina Inspiration Magazine/Cotton spandex jersey Avalana

1. I love a boat neck tee. The neck on this tee is unique so I had to give it a try.

2. After trying to decipher the printed pattern included in the magazine I decided to trace the neckline pattern pieces only and used them as a template on my favorite tee shirt pattern (Butterick 6848.)

3. The instructions are vague and it seemed just wrong to construct the neckband using the pattern pieces the pattern supplies. Instead I cut a 2 and 1/2 inch strip for the front neckband and did the same for back neckline cutting that strip about 2 inches shorter than front neckband. I quartered the neckline, overlapped the front band over the back band at the shoulder seams and quartered the neckband. Matching the quarters I basted the band to the neckline. Once the band was basted and I was satisfied with the result I went on to complete the tee shirt easily.

4. The magazine is similar to the Burda magazine. Great for Inspiration but not so much for construction.

Itch to Stitch Nussle Joggers/Viscose, nylon and spandex ponte

1. This is a TNT (Tried and True) pattern for me. It is easy to construct, directions are excellent and works well with many types of knits.

April Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, April 11, 10:30, Creative Sewing Apple Valley

Saturday, April 13, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

*Wednesday, April 17, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

*Please note – this is the 3rd Wednesday of the month-not the second Wednesday that we usually schedule

Kristin’s Garments:

Burda 6059/Green activewear knit

1. Thought it might be a nice boxy fit tee but not so much-wider neckline, wider shoulder but not quite drop.

2. Folded the balloon sleeve down to normal sleeve.

3. Neck edge was supposed to be turned under and stitched-no band. I added band and it stood up a bit-not small enough but also doesn’t choke 🙂

4. Fine pattern, just doesn’t earn a spot in my permanent collection.

Monroe Turtleneck/Tessuti (free pattern)/Heavier gray knit
Monroe in Art Gallery stripe knit

1. “Somebody” said it was their favorite turtleneck-looser fitting-so I had to try.

2. Shortened and widened turtleneck and widened sleeve and armhole. Also tried the size 2 vs. size 3 body.

3. Sleeves are quite narrow, even in the Art Gallery knit.

4. After 3 tries I’m going back to “my” favorite turtleneck 🙂

La Veste/Atelier Brunette/Wool blend

1. Originally my muslin, but over time (and experience), I realized that the wide wale corduroy I had intended for the final garment wouldn’t be appropriate so carried on and made wool version my final.

2. Shortened the jacket and sleeves by 1 inch. Otherwise made to pattern with a few detours along the way.

3. The front and back yoke are one piece so the front yoke is on the bias. If I were to make again, I would try with the back on bias instead as the front stretched a bit and wouldn’t I rather have that in the back?

4. The other endearing feature of the pattern is the vents on sleeve and bottom hem. The technique, however, is what would be difficult on a thick fabric. It looks good in the drawing but doesn’t really show up when worn-for all the work that it took. Maybe deepen the hems/vents to 3”?

5. Otherwise the drafting was great, everything went together well. I shortened the body of the longer version by 2” and sleeve by 1”.

Cheryl Stretch Pant/StyleArc/Stretch woven cotton

1. Looking for a straight leg pattern but so many are soooo wide. Maybe what I want should be called relaxed leg? These are 20” at the hem-size 18.

2. Simple back dart and fold over elastic waist. I went up one size as I was in middle but may try down size also.

3. They are called a 7/8 length. I cut to pattern but lengthened at hem 1”.

March Makes-Saturday Edition

Saturday at the Sewing Lounge was packed with wonderful sewing-the fun continues Wednesday, March 13 at Lakes Makerie and Thursday, March 14 at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Don’t miss it!!

Fairy Godmother/Peony Dress
Freda Knit Top/StyleArc
Wearing Milla Top/Just Patterns
Sanda Coat/Merchant & Mills
Butterick 6863
Textile Center hat class/Karen Morris Millinery
Same as above but decorated headband
Sapporo/Novo Coat from Papercut Patterns
Simplicity 9647 Pant with clever “not enough fabric” modification
Simplicity 2508
Beautiful topstitching and color blocking

December Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 5941, View A-Cotton/spandex stretch wide wale corduroy

1. I did my standard petite length adjustments and narrow shoulder. On the sleeve I mistook the cut line for horizontal seam for the shorten/lengthen line so I wasn’t able to put in a horizontal seam as pattern directs.

2. I did not enjoy working with this fabric. It was necessary to use a walking foot and size 14 needle in my machine. The fabric is stiff and bulky and not very forgiving.

3. I used the Louise Cutting method for pockets (see example) and changed order of construction making it easier for fitting and working with the fabric.

4. I did a wrapped hem and used serger and bias binding for seam finishes.

5. Closures? – definitely not buttonholes! Many thanks to Kristin for putting in my snaps with her Kamsnap tool.

Kwik Sew 4069 OOP/jersey knit and Burda 5971/rayon challis

1. I did my standard shortening adjustments and also straightened out side seams – it’s a very curvy pattern.

2. Turtlenecks are a staple in my wardrobe. Making them out of fabulous fabric and getting the neck fit I want is a win-win. Also it was a nice break from sewing corduroy!

Autumn Paisley Print Shirtdress

Burda 5971, dress version

Rayon challis

1. In October I made the blouse version of this pattern. I had enough fabric to make the dress version thinking it would be perfect for Thanksgiving. The chances are high that it will become a blouse!

2. I did my standard shortening adjustments as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment. I also removed 4 inches from the hem length.

3. I changed the order of construction so I could do flat construction, i.e. collar before side seams.

4. Love the fabric but the dress – not so much.

Forest Green Knit/Woven Overlay Tee

McCalls 7247, View B/ponte and textured cotton

1. This is a fun pattern that I have made before. The look and style can easily be altered by switching up colors, fabrics and textures.

Kristin’s Garments

Funnel Neck Sweater

Jalie Romy #4024 and Butterick 6597/activewear knit

Jalie Romy #4024

1. One of my favorite patterns-no front or back. Great fit with the funnel neck and dolman sleeves. Omitted the band at waist.

Butterick 6597 OOP

1. Omitted the wide waistband and cover stitched matching elastic instead.

2. Narrowed the side piece-there are no side seams in skirt.

Jalie Romy #4024/rayon knit

1. Wanted to try the pattern in a lighter fabric. Used the waistband this time.

2. Comfortable and fits under jacket.

Burda 5869/Merchant & Mills/linen jacquard

1. Very happy with this pattern. Loved that it was lined-inside looks good. Saved a lot of headaches on edge finishes.

2. Fabric was easy to work with. Zipper went in well.

3. Omitted side seam pockets but added a chest pocket on the inside. Made several mistakes but well worth the effort.

4. Neck band made to pattern. Height is great.

Sew House Seven Toaster, version 1/rayon knit and Jalie Multi Sport Skort #2796/repurposed jacket

Sew House Seven Toaster, version 1

1. Also wanted to try this pattern in a lightweight knit.

2. Neckband doesn’t stand up -may stitch it folded to give extra stability.

Jalie Multi Sport Skort #2796/repurposed jacket

1. Have been seeing these winter skirts in Title Nine catalog and had to try them.

2. Used the zipper and pockets as is. The fabric didn’t separate which was helpful.

3. Bound the waistline with knit. Fun make. Fun to wear!

January 2024 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, January 10, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, January 11, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, January 13, 10:30 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Need a Turkey Prep Break?

Jen at Everyday Style is holding a workshop Tuesday, Nov. 21 at noon CST. Debbie and I both like what she has to say.

We thought it might be fun to challenge everyone to wear a holiday outfit at our December Garment Sewing Group meetings. It would be one less thing to plan once the holidays arrive!!

Here’s the link to RSVP for the workshop-Holiday Style workshop

Happy Thanksgiving!!

Sewing Machine For Sale

Janome MemoryCraft 6700

I’ve upgraded to the Janome M7 and the grandkids are all coming for Thanksgiving-I need some space!

Asking price $1500-will let you have it for $1250 if we can make the exchange on Sunday, 11/19.

Walking foot, amazing buttonhole foot and more!

Well cared for, easy to use, hardworking machine with great lighting and lots of workspace.

Please text 952-201-3863 if interested.

Debbie’s Back! Let the (GSG) Games Begin!

After a wonderful trip across the Pond-she’s back and ready to show us what she made this month 🙂 What have you made?

Meeting times for Garment Sewing Group (GSG): All begin at 10:30 am

Thursday (today), November 9 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and Fabric Swap
Saturday, November 11 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, November 15 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis (yes, this is the 3rd Wed.)

October’s Garment Sewing Group Pics and Pattern Review

Missing two pics but someone is across the Pond :))

New class starting Thursday, November 2-Garment Sewing 2.0, 10-12 pm at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Meant for those of you coming back to sewing for yourself and not sure where to start-indie patterns, new fabrics, changed body!!! Make a garment while brushing up on skillzzzz.

Debbie’s Garments:

Pauline Alice Tello Jacket/Cotton Stretch Twill

1. The only fit adjustment I made was a narrow shoulder.

2. I interfaced the collar and facings – pattern does not use interfacing. However I was surprised how often the serger was mentioned for seam finishes.

3. The construction method is done while most of the jacket is flat except for sleeves. I did set in sleeves, buttonholes and then the hem.

4. Other than putting the buttonholes too far in from center I am really happy with it, especially the pockets. The jacket is a fun make and the directions are very good.

Brick/Tan Raglan Tee

Butterick 6207, view A with curved hem

1. This is my favorite pattern for a Raglan tee. Great for layering under my utility jacket.

Cream Banded Turtleneck

Simplicity 9385, View D

Ribbed sweater knit blend

1. Another TNT pattern.

2. The knit is very drapey so I added the band to prevent the length of the fabric to grow.

3. As the weather gets cooler I will layer this under my utility jacket.

4. I was pleasantly surprised to find two classic shirts in my closet that with also layer well with this jacket. I have a mini capsule!

Tartan Plaid Peplum Shirt

Burda 5971, View B/Cotton

1. I adjusted fit by narrowing shoulder, shortened between shoulder and bust, shortened 1 inch between waist and peplum hem and shortened sleeve 1 inch.

2. The sleeve calls for a basic 1 inch hem but I did a split cuff instead.

3. Instead of adding belt loops for belt I secured belt at center back just below peplum seam.

4. Matching the plaid for this pattern was difficult. I let the pattern photo fool me. I would make this again but definitely not in a plaid!

Style Arc Josie Hoodie (no hood)/Novelty poly knit

1. Did not do any fit adjustments.

2. Instead of using facings for the hood I lined it with a lightweight ponte knit. Nixed the hood and added a cowl/turtle neck instead. I also faced the hem with the same ponte.

3. I did not add draw strings to bottom hem.

4. It’s a fun top and easy to make.

5. A lighter weight and more pliable fabric would work better for the hood.

Kristin’s Garments:

Simplicity 8797, View C/Berber fleece

1. Cut shoulders, neck, armhole and sleeves as Small-remainder in Medium.

2. Pattern has lining pieces. I cut a back neck facing instead of lining. Used ponte fabric for facing.

3. Used lining fabric for pockets for slipperiness.

4. Topstitching made the berber look cheap and crushed so I handtacked in numerous places to keep facing in place.

5. Went together well, collar’s inside corner turns well. Serged most seams but curves and collar sewn on sewing machine. Snuggly coat!

Burda 5855/Novelty fabric and heavy rib knit

1. Pattern is made for wovens or faux fur-I subbed rib knit for sleeves and collar.

2. I was attracted to the vertical “bust” dart. It is trimmed after sewing. Fabric frayed so I zigzagged.

3. Pattern calls for interfacing both upper and under collar which I did since it was a knit. Pattern directions show a corner on the collar but the pattern piece is definitely rounded and the photos also show a rounded corner.

4. I didn’t originally interface the front facing but after pinning the heavy collar into the flimsy main fabric I added a wide strip to center fronts.

5. Sleeve is two pieces which I kept even tho it was a knit. Sleeve head went in well-didn’t need to cut down and it isn’t a sloppy fit.

6. Pocket seemed small and not useful and I didn’t have any of the woven fabric left so no pocket.

7. Another Burda winner pattern for me!

VikiSews Alya Tee/cotton knit

1. Had to make it once more-comfy tee-boxy fit.

Lark Tee Grainline Studios/Cotton knit

1. Looking for the perfect tee-not sure this one is it. Very high sleeve cap that makes for sloppy armhole.

November Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, November 9, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, November 11, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St.Paul

Wednesday, November 15, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Garment Sewing Group

September 2023

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 7062 pant/stretch denim and Simplicity 9275/cotton interlock

Burda 7062-I like the contour waistband, side zip and ankle slits.

Simplicity 9275, View A, without pockets

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. Quick and easy make and the fabric was also easy to sew.

2. Due to weight of fabric I did a single layer hem versus a narrow hem as pattern instructs.

McCalls MP457/7194 OOP-cotton/poly blend

1. TNT pattern that is easily hacked. The fabric makes this Tee.

Zipper Sleeved Tee/Vogue 1635/blended double knit

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeves. Also shortened sleeve length by one inch and length of body 2 inches.

2. I appreciated the pattern instructions regarding cutting interfacing – nice tip.

3. To create less bulk and to construct as much as the garment flat I changed the order of construction. I constructed the left sleeve with zipper first rather than what the pattern instructs. I also do shoulder seams, neck edge before any side seams if possible.

4. The pattern instructions lack any mention of clean finishing zipper edge. No mention of serger – instead you are instructed to double stitch.

5. It’s a fun pattern that puts a standard tee  up a notch. 

Last of my summer Makes:

Grainline Studio Willow Tank/rayon

1. Shortened 1 inch between waist and hip.

2. Changed order of construction – Stitch one shoulder seam, apply first strip of bias binding, stitch other shoulder seam and complete binding construction. I used serged wrapped method of applying binding.

3. Great pattern – definitely will become a TNT.

Love Notions Classic Tee/cotton interlock
McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848 top and Jalie Eleonore pant

Kristin’s Garments

Alta Tee/VikiSews/cotton knit
Alta Tee/VikiSews/rayon knit

1. Looking for an oversized, but not sloppy, tee.

2. Klimt fabric is cotton and neckband fit pretty close.

3. Navy is rayon and heavier and drapier.

4. Correct pattern, great basic.

Tarifa Tee French Navy Patterns/rayon and cotton knits

1. Stripe is rayon/botanical print is cotton. Fun pattern.

2. Front hem shorter than back.

Donny Shirt Friday Pattern Company/linen

1. Fun shirt pattern with back yoke and gathered back.

2. Instructions for front yoke are very good.

3. Hand stitched hems.

Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/lightweight denim
Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/flannel

1. This pattern is a bit narrower than Barry Pant/Stylearc and not quite as bubbly.

2. Hem facing and 3 darts make the leg shape. I added 3” to length.

3. Lots of interesting sewing techniques, especially the pockets and paper bag waistband but I didn’t want those options.

MultiSport Skort Jalie Patterns/activewear knit

1. Added 4” to length of skirt and pant underneath.

2. Fabric was good to sew on. Clips were easier than pins.

3. Made waistband half the width but the stretch of knit was different and wish I would have made it wider.

October Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, October 11, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, October 12, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, October 14, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester