First up is Saturday’s Sew and Tell at Ginny’s. Keep scrolling down for Debbie and Kristin’s garments-
Cindy Jean Jacket StylearcMcCalls 7975-blue/Puff and Pencil-tie waist blouse-greenIslander Express TeeEureka Top Sewing WorkshopFrankie Shirt Sewing WorkshopLB Top Paper TheoryRemy Top Sew House Seven
Debbie’s Garments:
Vogue 1644 Jacket/textured cotton
1. Fitting adjustments include petiting between shoulder and bust and removing bust dart. The jacket is short in length so next time I may lengthen at the hem. Also the sleeve is too wide at hem – I need to remember to narrow width from elbow to hem next time.
2. I lined the sleeves and used bias strips to bind facing edges.
3. This is a fun and easy make – lots of versatility. I have a secret message inside that makes it more fun to wear. * Blouse is Kwik Sew Classic Shirt 3555 from 100% Cotton in 2023.
Burda 6114/See You at Six French terry
1. I did my usual petite adjustments and shortened the length of the sleeves. I cut the collar height 2 1/2” less than pattern piece.
2. I like this pattern and I will make it again. Because the fabric is not typical of athletic type garments it fits in with my more casual lifestyle. Next time I would make the pocket bag larger and insert it between front and back side seam. I would also add a fabric strip of facing along zipper and center fronts. * Tee is the Laundry Day Tee by Love Notions from 2023.
Burda 6533/viscose poplin stretch/Debbie
1. For fitting adjustments I petited between the shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment and shortened hem length by 1 inch.
2. This pattern is fairly easy, however shawl collars can be a little tricky obtaining the perfect roll line. I need to work on that if I make it again.
3. I am not a fan of the curve hem – I had some issues with vertical pulling. * Pants are Jalie Vanessa made from light weight textured cotton. TNT pattern for me!
Kristin’s Garments:
Closet Core Jenna/cotton
1. I have really wanted to make some of the “over-sized shirt” patterns the the designers have been coming up with-how are they different/same, etc. I made the size suggested for a 38” bust and made no sizing changes at hip or elsewhere.
2. Foldover front placket to wrong side.
3. Burrito roll is used for yoke-attaching at yoke seam, then shoulders. Suggests topstitching through only the right side and seam allowances instead of ws/rs/seam allowances eliminating some of the puckering and/or allowing for no topstitching showing on rs for a more polished look.
4. Features a separate under and outer collar piece. Great instructions-collar stand is attached first and then mini burrito roll for collar stand ends.
5. Tower placket and bias strip instructions for sleeve vent. I chose tower and need to practice a bit but then Debbie sent me this link https://pin.it/7D7g03Tfb Not sure if it will come through but it’s one of those great Japanese speedy tricks that I must master!
6. Cuff also included burrito roll suggestion at ends.
7. Shoulder width came out close to Maker’s Atelier version. Yoke is deeper than Maker’s.
8. Jenna also has a hanging loop attached in the yoke seam and a side hem gusset. Unless I read instructions incorrectly, I’d make a few changes to the angle of the gusset.
9. Truly a boyfriend shirt.
The Maker’s Atelier “The Atelier Shirt”Pleated version/Italian shirting cotton
1. Again I made the size for a 38” bust with no fit alterations. Yoke is attached at shoulders first, then yoke seam.
2. Foldover front placket to right side-oops don’t use two sided fabric! But gives you the folded edge on outside.
3. Collar is attached same as Jenna Shirt but instructions aren’t quite as well done. Only one collar piece.
4. Instructions for bias strip cuff vent and a box version of the tower placket-again, not quite as well explained as Jenna but certainly adequate.
5. Back yoke is more shallow than Jenna but shoulder width very similar.
6. I love the pleated back-stitched all of them down-knew I’d never get them pressed that way again.
7. Love the style variations of this shirt and the written descriptions that have me making the gathered version next in gauzy cotton…
8. Next up on my shirt adventures-The Assembly Line Oversized Shirt!
Burda 6533/seersucker/Kristin
1. Another feature we’re seeing-the shawl collar-seems to go in and out of popularity.
2. I’d agree with Debbie on all points.
3. Sleeveless version didn’t have a separate cut to the armhole and seems to have worked out well.
4. Learned or at least was exposed to the difficulty of curved edges with lined fabric-poor turning skills are accentuated!
July Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, July 10, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, July 11, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, July 13, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
It was the day before Mother’s Day and this wonderful mother/daughters group was the highlight of the morning!! So cool to gather around a love of making clothes!
Mom made the jacket for daughterRosemary in Pauline Alice Tello JacketRosemary made Love Notions Metra Blazer for sisterKathy and Mom had different ideas for the same fabric-Kathy is New Look 6650, Mom/Rita is Simplicity 9328Sewing her way through Closet Core Pietra PantsNew Look 6394 in light flannelFlorence Shirt/Merchant & Mills/cottonBeautifully buttoned backThimble Patterns Kimono/cotton jacquardGrainline Studio Tee/Self drafted pantPlum House bagRemy RaglanE Tee, Hudson Top, Valencia Pant-Sewing WorkshopOakley Vest and Ballad Blouse-Love Notions, Free Range Pant-Sew House SevenCapsule wardrobe-StyleArc Estelle Ponte Jacket, Minttu Tank/Named Patterns, Jessica Pocket Legging/JalieSimplicity D0655 Top and New Look 6005 pantFun and well executed details on New Look 6005 pantDresses for Mother’s Day ala Destiny’s Child!
1. The design features on this jacket caught my eye. It has a front and back yoke, inverted pleat, hidden button placket, inverted flap on sleeves and a hefty hem.
2. I did my necessary shortening fit adjustments as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. The pattern instructions are clear but concise. However, top stitching widths were not consistent so I needed to pay attention or just do my own thing!
4. I would make this jacket again with a few changes, such as lengthening and lining the sleeves.
Itch To Stitch Islares Top/Avalana Sutton spandex jersey
1. Besides my standard fitting adjustments I decreased the front and back neck width by putting in a dart on the paper pattern before cutting out fabric.
2. I enjoy using Itch To Stitch patterns. The fit, directions, and illustrations are great for beginners and seasoned sewists!
Lined Summer Vest, Butterick 6745, View C
Main fabric is cotton, lining is Liberty of London
1. I shortened the length between the shoulder and bust by 1/4 inch. I am thinking I should have used 3/8 to 1/2 inch for that shortening task.
2. I chose to topstitch entire vest – that tends to keep the lining from peeking out.
3. Not a quick make – you basically make two vests and then do lots of burrito methods to construct lining – patience is necessary.
4. Pants are the Jalie Vanessa made last year from same fabric as vest.
Cream/Camel Stripe Tee/Love Notions Classic Tee in French terry
1. This is a TNT pattern, especially for warmer months when I want a more relaxed fit but not oversized.
2. As always I did my shortening adjustments and did a shirt tail hem. I also added cuffs to the sleeves because I did not have enough fabric to make a 3/4 sleeve length.
3. Fun and easy make with lots of versatility. Also the fabric doesn’t have a lot of stretch but it is yummy to work with and wear.
June Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, June 12, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, June 13, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, June 15, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester
Kristin’s Garments:
Itch to Stitch Islares Top in cotton spandex knit
1. Great directions and drafting. Widened at hips and took in the shoulder dart for a less sloped shoulder.
2. All neck edges and facing are interfaced per pattern.
Jalie Marie Claude hoodie/Activewear knit
1. I’ve made the pattern before but not the hoodie. As I was folding the cuff to sew, I realized how little stretch the fabric had!! Assumptions always get me in trouble! So it’s a bit more close fitting than I was thinking but a perfect solution.
Love Notions Tinley Skort/nylon woven for skirt/mesh for biker shorts
1. New pattern from Love Notions. Made for knits or wovens-just size up or down.
2. Went together well. I didn’t put the elastic in channels, just used 1.5” elastic. Length is to pattern. She has a 3” gap between sizes so I took in the back after trying on.
3. Had to try the mesh for the biker shorts. Added a hem band to leg to lengthen and stretch better. Much cooler and lighter in weight than other options. But I’d have to do a test run before endorsing wholeheartedly 🙂
Arare Pullover by Waffle Patterns/nylon woven
1. After last month’s experience with the Work Shirt I sized up 3 sizes as I wanted a loose fit. I kept the shaping in side seams and center back.
2. Great details in the front zip-guard at the top and tab at the bottom. Lots of pocket options again but I chose the kangaroo but made it smaller for my cell phone. Great pocket with flap.
3. Happy with sizing. Pattern calls for drawstrings at hem but I omitted. I’d make this again!
Burda 6146/Stretch woven rayon
1. Love the fabric but it is very stretchy-which is good-and sometimes difficult to manipulate. So I chose a more simple woven pattern that would take advantage of the stretch across the back. I have made the view with the ruffled neck and heard that the vee neck was great.
2. I agree! The vee is modest and the wide elastic gathered cuff band is perfect. Can’t wait to make more of these!
Explorer Tote/Noodlehead PatternsRedwood Tote/Noodlehead Patterns–all supplies from Twin City QuiltingSimplicity 9818Wimbourne Coat/Avid SeamstressBurda 6292Eureka Top and Plaza Pant/Sewing WorkshopMontana Midi Dress-adapted/StyleArc
Wednesday, May 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester-carpool??
Thursday, May 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, May 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
April 2024 Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
Itch To Stitch Mila Shirt/cotton and spandex
1. I have made this shirt before and knew that I needed to make some fitting adjustments this time including shortening between the shoulder and bust, waist and hip and the hem length. I also shortened the length of the sleeves.
2. I eliminated shoulder gathers and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. The placket is wider than a traditional shirt and the neck opening for the collar is also wide.
4. I used larger buttons for the placket and the same style but smaller buttons for the narrow cuffs.
5. I find the Itch To Stitch patterns excellent in fit, construction details and instructions. However this is an older pattern from their collection so I probably will not make it again due to wide placket and neck opening.
Itch To Stitch Delaware Jacket/linen
1. I did my standard fit adjustments for Itch To Stitch patterns.
2. This was a slow but enjoyable make. There are 70 construction steps!
3. Precise pocket placement, stitching and zipper insertion was a challenge for me only because it was difficult to see due to the dark color. I did find the fabric and color forgiving though.
4. I am not sure about the drawstring feature. It seems like the buttonholes for the drawstring should be further from zipper edge and I am not a fan of the toggles.
5. It was a fun and very satisfying project. I would make it again but not for awhile!
Adapted Love Notions Harmony Blouse pattern/rayon twill and linen
1. I used the original blouse back for the new front.
Notice the button placket down the back 🙂
2. I used the front of the original blouse for bottom back section of new blouse.
3. To complete a full blouse back I made a yoke from a linen scrap for the upper portion of the new blouse back.
4. The sleeves are from the original with minor adjustments.
5. I used a serged bias edge for neckline finish.
6. I love the rayon twill. Even though I may just wear this around the house the refashion was worth it.
Jalie Dolman Tee with adaptions/Avalana jersey knits
1. This pattern is a TNT for me. I find it easy to use as a base to copy ready-to-wear tees or other tee patterns.
2. It was a fun, easy and quick make with great fabric.
Kristin’s Garments:
Hot Patterns #1252/handwoven cotton and ponte
1. This fabric wanted me to make it into a garment! The colors are perfect for spring/summer.
2. I made a trial garment in the other color way that I didn’t like so I’d know how the fabric behaved.
3. Ponte was used for the back piece and bands to give the handwoven fabric some stability. The weight was similar and it stabilized the seams where it was used.
4. The fabric didn’t have much stretch at all but tended to ravel. Serging or zigzagging was helpful.
5. I had to use both sides as I couldn’t choose a favorite.
Delta Cargo Pants/StyleArc Patterns/12 oz. Denim-pictured above)
1. Compared to my favorite Barry Pants (also a Stylearc pattern) they have more ease through hips and waist.
2. I didn’t add pockets as elastic waists don’t support my phone to say nothing of tools!!
Komugi Overshirt Waffle Patterns/12 oz. Denim
1. Fun pattern-instructions well done-drafting well done, markings, etc.
2. I made it to pattern and this wouldn’t be anything I could wear “over’ much more than a tank top 🙂 But the fit is very good-I went up 2 sizes for my hip and everything was great-except the narrowness of sleeves and the shoulders/back is a close fit. All good-just need to go up a size.
3. Denim was heavy and thick so I would do more seam allowance trimming on pockets-anything to decrease bulk.
4. Zipper chest pocket was cool but just too bulky and my cell didn’t fit after making it bigger so just left it off.
Azuki Work Pants Waffle Patterns/12 oz. Denim
1. Same as jacket above for quality of pattern. Fit was much better for the garment.
2. Fly instructions were a bit of a head scratcher but that might just be me.
3. Love all the technical pockets and used the ones I thought would be most helpful for me.
4. Nice to remember that denim is a stretchier woven fabric.
May Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, May 8, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Thursday, May 9, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Just catching up on April Garment Sewing Group pics-before next week when our May meetings begin at Ginny’s!!! Saturday’s meeting is at Sewing Lounge-not Lakes as we told you at April meetings!
Wednesday, May 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester (let me know if you want to carpool)
Thursday, May 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, May 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul (this is a change from GSG sheet!!)
Power Sports Bra/Greenstyle PatternsFehrtrade Surf to Summit TopGrainline Studio Alder DressMcCalls 7360Butterick 5719Back view
Material Girl Sewing 