Last Month’s (July) Garment Sewing Group

***One more GSG meeting in August-Wednesday, Aug. 21 at Lakes Makerie!!

Debbie and Kristin’s garments:

July 2024

Garment Sewing Group

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Bernina Inspiration Magazine Pattern/Cotton stretch woven for jacket-Art Gallery rayon for lining-bamboo ribbing for bands

1. The fit – I shortened length between shoulders and bust and also between waist and hip. Unfortunately I neglected to shorten the the neckband and as a result it was too long for neck edge. I didn’t figure that out until almost too late. Just one reason I am not pleased with this make.

2. The pattern-the directions are few and too often vague. Many places on the pattern pieces should have a notch to match pieces together. For example, the front and back of sleeve armhole. There is no mention of interfacing center fronts for zipper.

3. The construction-the serger is often used in directions-definitely a plus. The zipper is inserted last and the lining is bagged. The lining at zipper needs to be slip stitched. I think you could leave an opening in one side seam, insert zipper in main fabric and lining and then sew up opening in side seam.

4. The bottom band goes around the entire jacket. I would have liked to have a main fabric piece on both sides of zipper. Sewing the zipper to the ribbing wasn’t pleasant.

5. Finding ribbing and zipper to go with jacket was difficult. If the jacket front was up closer to neck I may have found a better length of zipper. Having too long of a zipper generally doesn’t look the greatest In my opinion.

6. I wasn’t successful finding the correct zipper to make the jacket reversible.

7. This was an okay make – if there is a next time I would pay attention to what I listed above and make changes for a more successful project.

* Tee from ribbing is a TNT pattern that I use often. I learned the hard way that I needed to go down a size or two due to negative ease.

Lillie Bishop Sleeve Blouse/Mocha Patterns-Navy/tan cotton batik

1. Fit – Did my standard petiting for length. No issues there.

2. The pattern – There are two back designs. One has a yoke and pleats, the other is a full back. The directions are clear and concise and the construction is all done by machine – no slip stitching. I feel the pattern runs small in size, especially in hip area.

3. For this make I “faced” the yoke and used the burrito roll for construction.

4. I evened out the front and back hems and did a narrow hem rather than a faced hem.

5. The width of the cuff for the sleeve was much narrower than pattern shows so I added 3/4 inch in width to cuff pattern – much easier to work with.

6. I liked this pattern so I made it again!

Second Lillie Bishop Sleeve Blouse/Mocha Patterns-Eyelet for main fabric-cotton poplin for front and back lining

1. For this make I lined the front and full back. I thought a facing for the neckline would be too heavy so instead I used a serged bias strip for the v-neck.

2. The main fabric and lining are stitched together at side seams and also at the 5/8 inch hem.

3. The sleeves are not lined. I used the selvage edge of the lining for the cuffs.

4. A fun make that seems trendy but not too frilly!

Kristin’s Garments:

Simplicity 1358-Cotton jersey

1. Wanted a sleep tank and this pattern has a center front seam (and back too) so it made the vee very easy.

2. Watched a video from Closet Core about an armhole binding that mimics my Eddie Bauer tank. They used a 5/8” seam allowance for the binding but that seemed too wide so I tried 3/8”. Applied arm hole band, single layer, right sides together, wrapped binding around seam allowance and cover stitched and trimmed excess. I like the look.

True Bias Patterns-French terry and activewear knit

1. French terry version-used fold over elastic for pocket band.

2. Omitted ankle band on activewear version.

3. Put pleats in activewear version. Rise needs to be higher or elastic looser (and wear them lower 🙂

Lillie Blouse/Mocha Patterns-plaid linen

1. Just had to try another puff sleeve pattern and then I realized how close it was to Burda 6146 that I made previously. The Mocha pattern doesn’t have a bust dart-Burda does. Mocha has a back yoke option. I was going to do the yoke but started cutting the regular back so went with it!

2. Compared front and back armhole and they were equal plus the back neck seemed low so I cut 1/2” from front shoulders and did nothing to back. I also went down a size for the sleeve to accommodate the change. It’s a big sleeve so should be no problem.

3. Very happy with the top. Leveled the hem and sleeve cuffs are to pattern and serged to sleeve after sewing the side/underarm seam.

*Please Note – GSG Dates will not be the second week of the month in August.

August Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Catching up from July

Just a reminder of August Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

And now, more pics from last month’s meetings-

Closet Core Elodie
StyleArc Jema Dress
LIGHTED Twirly Skirt
Bianca Flight Suit Closet Core
New Look 6296 back view
Hovea Jacket Megan Nielsen
Matchy Matchy Puff Blouse and Carolyn Pajama Top/Closet Core
StyleArc Jules
Easy. Ageless. Cool. Cutting Line Designs
Burda 7045 Men’s Shirt

August Meetings start Thursday-

Several calendar conflicts have us meeting later than usual in August:

Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

We hope your calendar allows you to make it to one or two of them!

AND-it looks like July got away from me and I didn’t get any pictures posted so here they are. If you want any more info on patterns used, send me an email.

These are photos from July meetings, I’ll post more tomorrow-

Vogue 1470
Patterns for Pirates Lumberjacket
Simplicity 9472
True Bias Mave Skirt
Flowers pounded on fabric
New Look 6431

Garment Sewing Group This Week

Hope to see you!! All meetings start at 10:30 am.

Wednesday, July 10 at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul

Thursday, July 11 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley-and fabric swap

Saturday, July 13 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

And if you’d like to make a day of it on Saturday-

Saturday, July 13, 1-4 pm Becky’s Buttons Open House at Lakes Makerie

Garment Sewing Group, lunch and buttons! What a Saturday!!

Our fearless travel reporter sent these notes:

Textile Center Garage Sale for September has been set.  September 13 – 15, 2024.   Proceeds to a good cause. 

Sewing and Stitch Expo in Puyallup, WA 2025, February 26 – March 2. My source says hotels are filling up quickly!

Stitch Festival in London March 20-23rd, 2025. I’ve been drooling over this event for years in the Selvage magazine-anyone want to go!!

June 2024 Garment Sewing Group -Final

First up is Saturday’s Sew and Tell at Ginny’s. Keep scrolling down for Debbie and Kristin’s garments-

Cindy Jean Jacket Stylearc
McCalls 7975-blue/Puff and Pencil-tie waist blouse-green
Islander Express Tee
Eureka Top Sewing Workshop
Frankie Shirt Sewing Workshop
LB Top Paper Theory
Remy Top Sew House Seven

Debbie’s Garments:

Vogue 1644 Jacket/textured cotton

1. Fitting adjustments include petiting between shoulder and bust and removing bust dart. The jacket is short in length so next time I may lengthen at the hem. Also the sleeve is too wide at hem – I need to remember to narrow width from elbow to hem next time.

2. I lined the sleeves and used bias strips to bind facing edges.

3. This is a fun and easy make – lots of versatility. I have a secret message inside that makes it more fun to wear. * Blouse is Kwik Sew Classic Shirt 3555 from 100% Cotton in 2023.

Burda 6114/See You at Six French terry

1. I did my usual petite adjustments and shortened the length of the sleeves. I cut the collar height 2 1/2” less than pattern piece.

2. I like this pattern and I will make it again. Because the fabric is not typical of athletic type garments it fits in with my more casual lifestyle. Next time I would make the pocket bag larger and insert it between front and back side seam. I would also add a fabric strip of facing along zipper and center fronts. * Tee is the Laundry Day Tee by Love Notions from 2023.

Burda 6533/viscose poplin stretch/Debbie

1. For fitting adjustments I petited between the shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment and shortened hem length by 1 inch.

2. This pattern is fairly easy, however shawl collars can be a little tricky obtaining the perfect roll line. I need to work on that if I make it again.

3. I am not a fan of the curve hem – I had some issues with vertical pulling. * Pants are Jalie Vanessa made from light weight textured cotton. TNT pattern for me!

Kristin’s Garments:

Closet Core Jenna/cotton

1. I have really wanted to make some of the “over-sized shirt” patterns the the designers have been coming up with-how are they different/same, etc. I made the size suggested for a 38” bust and made no sizing changes at hip or elsewhere.

2. Foldover front placket to wrong side.

3. Burrito roll is used for yoke-attaching at yoke seam, then shoulders. Suggests topstitching through only the right side and seam allowances instead of ws/rs/seam allowances eliminating some of the puckering and/or allowing for no topstitching showing on rs for a more polished look.

4. Features a separate under and outer collar piece. Great instructions-collar stand is attached first and then mini burrito roll for collar stand ends.

5. Tower placket and bias strip instructions for sleeve vent. I chose tower and need to practice a bit but then Debbie sent me this link https://pin.it/7D7g03Tfb Not sure if it will come through but it’s one of those great Japanese speedy tricks that I must master!

6. Cuff also included burrito roll suggestion at ends.

7. Shoulder width came out close to Maker’s Atelier version. Yoke is deeper than Maker’s.

8. Jenna also has a hanging loop attached in the yoke seam and a side hem gusset. Unless I read instructions incorrectly, I’d make a few changes to the angle of the gusset.

9. Truly a boyfriend shirt.

The Maker’s Atelier “The Atelier Shirt”
Pleated version/Italian shirting cotton

1. Again I made the size for a 38” bust with no fit alterations. Yoke is attached at shoulders first, then yoke seam.

2. Foldover front placket to right side-oops don’t use two sided fabric! But gives you the folded edge on outside.

3. Collar is attached same as Jenna Shirt but instructions aren’t quite as well done. Only one collar piece.

4. Instructions for bias strip cuff vent and a box version of the tower placket-again, not quite as well explained as Jenna but certainly adequate.

5. Back yoke is more shallow than Jenna but shoulder width very similar.

6. I love the pleated back-stitched all of them down-knew I’d never get them pressed that way again.

7. Love the style variations of this shirt and the written descriptions that have me making the gathered version next in gauzy cotton…

8. Next up on my shirt adventures-The Assembly Line Oversized Shirt!

Burda 6533/seersucker/Kristin

1. Another feature we’re seeing-the shawl collar-seems to go in and out of popularity.

2. I’d agree with Debbie on all points.

3. Sleeveless version didn’t have a separate cut to the armhole and seems to have worked out well.

4. Learned or at least was exposed to the difficulty of curved edges with lined fabric-poor turning skills are accentuated!

July Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, July 10, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, July 11, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, July 13, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

June Sewing

Last chance for June makes is Saturday (6/15) at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester at 10:30. Contact me for carpooling-

Here are pics from Wednesday/Thursday-

Jutland Pants/Thread Theory-Bernie recommends welt pocket instructions from Threads Winter 2022 #220 (by Mainely Menswear) and Singer Sewing Pants That Fit
Grodin Winsome Robe-local designer carried by Lakes Makerie
Love Notions Octave Coat
George and Ginger Vista Top and Helen’s Closet Arden Pant
Love Notions Rhapsody and Ballad Blouse and Closet Core Pietra Pant
Itch to Stitch Algarve Top
Vintage Issey Miyake Vogue 1476
Mocha Lillie Top
Embellishing Butterick 6874
Matchy Matchy Recess Pant
McCalls 7635
Seamwork Willis Shirt
Pattern Apothecary Astro Tee and Studio Rosato Wrap Top
Love Notions Cadence Top
Closet Core Crew Marble Shell Top
Machine Embroidery Extraordinaire! Creative Sewing manager, Tracy
Named Helmi Trench Blouse and Dress
Sew House Seven Moon Booties

June meetings are here!

Garment Sewing Group meetings begin this week-

Wed., June 12-Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, June 13-Creative Sewing, Apple Valley (and fabric swap!)

Saturday, June 15-Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester

Jalie Marie Claude

You won’t see these at our Garment Sewing Group Meetings…

Because they’re already being worn by the birthday girls!

Pony tail holes and all!

Saturday’s Sew and Tell

It was the day before Mother’s Day and this wonderful mother/daughters group was the highlight of the morning!! So cool to gather around a love of making clothes!

Mom made the jacket for daughter
Rosemary in Pauline Alice Tello Jacket
Rosemary made Love Notions Metra Blazer for sister
Kathy and Mom had different ideas for the same fabric-Kathy is New Look 6650, Mom/Rita is Simplicity 9328
Sewing her way through Closet Core Pietra Pants
New Look 6394 in light flannel
Florence Shirt/Merchant & Mills/cotton
Beautifully buttoned back
Thimble Patterns Kimono/cotton jacquard
Grainline Studio Tee/Self drafted pant
Plum House bag
Remy Raglan
E Tee, Hudson Top, Valencia Pant-Sewing Workshop
Oakley Vest and Ballad Blouse-Love Notions, Free Range Pant-Sew House Seven
Capsule wardrobe-StyleArc Estelle Ponte Jacket, Minttu Tank/Named Patterns, Jessica Pocket Legging/Jalie
Simplicity D0655 Top and New Look 6005 pant
Fun and well executed details on New Look 6005 pant
Dresses for Mother’s Day ala Destiny’s Child!

May Garment Sewing Group/Debbie and Kristin

Debbie’s Garments:

Style Arc Smith Woven Jacket/100% textured cotton

1. The design features on this jacket caught my eye. It has a front and back yoke, inverted pleat, hidden button placket, inverted flap on sleeves and a hefty hem.

2. I did my necessary shortening fit adjustments as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. The pattern instructions are clear but concise. However, top stitching widths were not consistent so I needed to pay attention or just do my own thing!

4. I would make this jacket again with a few changes, such as lengthening and lining the sleeves.

Itch To Stitch Islares Top/Avalana Sutton spandex jersey

1. Besides my standard fitting adjustments I decreased the front and back neck width by putting in a dart on the paper pattern before cutting out fabric.

2. I enjoy using Itch To Stitch patterns. The fit, directions, and illustrations are great for beginners and seasoned sewists!

Lined Summer Vest, Butterick 6745, View C

Main fabric is cotton, lining is Liberty of London

1. I shortened the length between the shoulder and bust by 1/4 inch. I am thinking I should have used 3/8 to 1/2 inch for that shortening task.

2. I chose to topstitch entire vest – that tends to keep the lining from peeking out.

3. Not a quick make – you basically make two vests and then do lots of burrito methods to construct lining – patience is necessary.

4. Pants are the Jalie Vanessa made last year from same fabric as vest.

Cream/Camel Stripe Tee/Love Notions Classic Tee in French terry

1. This is a TNT pattern, especially for warmer months when I want a more relaxed fit but not oversized.

2. As always I did my shortening adjustments and did a shirt tail hem. I also added cuffs to the sleeves because I did not have enough fabric to make a 3/4 sleeve length.

3. Fun and easy make with lots of versatility. Also the fabric doesn’t have a lot of stretch but it is yummy to work with and wear.

June Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 12, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, June 13, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, June 15, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester

Kristin’s Garments:

Itch to Stitch Islares Top in cotton spandex knit

1. Great directions and drafting. Widened at hips and took in the shoulder dart for a less sloped shoulder.

2. All neck edges and facing are interfaced per pattern.

Jalie Marie Claude hoodie/Activewear knit

1. I’ve made the pattern before but not the hoodie. As I was folding the cuff to sew, I realized how little stretch the fabric had!! Assumptions always get me in trouble! So it’s a bit more close fitting than I was thinking but a perfect solution.

Love Notions Tinley Skort/nylon woven for skirt/mesh for biker shorts

1. New pattern from Love Notions. Made for knits or wovens-just size up or down.

2. Went together well. I didn’t put the elastic in channels, just used 1.5” elastic. Length is to pattern. She has a 3” gap between sizes so I took in the back after trying on.

3. Had to try the mesh for the biker shorts. Added a hem band to leg to lengthen and stretch better. Much cooler and lighter in weight than other options. But I’d have to do a test run before endorsing wholeheartedly 🙂

Arare Pullover by Waffle Patterns/nylon woven

1. After last month’s experience with the Work Shirt I sized up 3 sizes as I wanted a loose fit. I kept the shaping in side seams and center back.

2. Great details in the front zip-guard at the top and tab at the bottom. Lots of pocket options again but I chose the kangaroo but made it smaller for my cell phone. Great pocket with flap.

3. Happy with sizing. Pattern calls for drawstrings at hem but I omitted. I’d make this again!

Burda 6146/Stretch woven rayon

1. Love the fabric but it is very stretchy-which is good-and sometimes difficult to manipulate. So I chose a more simple woven pattern that would take advantage of the stretch across the back. I have made the view with the ruffled neck and heard that the vee neck was great.

2. I agree! The vee is modest and the wide elastic gathered cuff band is perfect. Can’t wait to make more of these!

May’s Wednesday/Thursday Makes

This is how my day in Rochester (at Mezza9) began…

You can call it breakfast if it has fruit, right?

And then (at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics) the day only got better…

Mareta Threads Cut-Out Turtleneck
Vintage pattern/hand embroidered collar and border
Helix Tee/Sewing Workshop
Self drafted twist top
Roxy Shirt/Style Arc
Gallery Tunic/Liesl + Co.

On to Thursday at Creative Sewing

Explorer Tote/Noodlehead Patterns
Redwood Tote/Noodlehead Patternsall supplies from Twin City Quilting
Simplicity 9818
Wimbourne Coat/Avid Seamstress
Burda 6292
Eureka Top and Plaza Pant/Sewing Workshop
Montana Midi Dress-adapted/StyleArc

See you Saturday at Sewing Lounge!!