Saturday’s Sew and Tell

It was the day before Mother’s Day and this wonderful mother/daughters group was the highlight of the morning!! So cool to gather around a love of making clothes!

Mom made the jacket for daughter
Rosemary in Pauline Alice Tello Jacket
Rosemary made Love Notions Metra Blazer for sister
Kathy and Mom had different ideas for the same fabric-Kathy is New Look 6650, Mom/Rita is Simplicity 9328
Sewing her way through Closet Core Pietra Pants
New Look 6394 in light flannel
Florence Shirt/Merchant & Mills/cotton
Beautifully buttoned back
Thimble Patterns Kimono/cotton jacquard
Grainline Studio Tee/Self drafted pant
Plum House bag
Remy Raglan
E Tee, Hudson Top, Valencia Pant-Sewing Workshop
Oakley Vest and Ballad Blouse-Love Notions, Free Range Pant-Sew House Seven
Capsule wardrobe-StyleArc Estelle Ponte Jacket, Minttu Tank/Named Patterns, Jessica Pocket Legging/Jalie
Simplicity D0655 Top and New Look 6005 pant
Fun and well executed details on New Look 6005 pant
Dresses for Mother’s Day ala Destiny’s Child!

May’s Wednesday/Thursday Makes

This is how my day in Rochester (at Mezza9) began…

You can call it breakfast if it has fruit, right?

And then (at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics) the day only got better…

Mareta Threads Cut-Out Turtleneck
Vintage pattern/hand embroidered collar and border
Helix Tee/Sewing Workshop
Self drafted twist top
Roxy Shirt/Style Arc
Gallery Tunic/Liesl + Co.

On to Thursday at Creative Sewing

Explorer Tote/Noodlehead Patterns
Redwood Tote/Noodlehead Patternsall supplies from Twin City Quilting
Simplicity 9818
Wimbourne Coat/Avid Seamstress
Burda 6292
Eureka Top and Plaza Pant/Sewing Workshop
Montana Midi Dress-adapted/StyleArc

See you Saturday at Sewing Lounge!!

Thursday’s Makes

April meetings for Garment Sewing Group have begun-Thursday’s meeting was at Creative Sewing. Saturday we meet at Lakes Makerie and Wednesday at Sewing Lounge. Hope you can come!!

Sewing Lounge’s sale runs through Saturday, April 13!

Modified Marceau Top/Sewing Workshop
Sinclair Patterns/Journey Raglan Hoodie
Sinclair Patterns/Journey Raglan Hoodie
Burda 5855
Favorite tee in waffle knit
Sewing Workshop/Hudson Top
Friday Pattern Company/Ilford Jacket and Stylearc/Cheryl Stretch Woven Pant
Love Notions/Crescendo Jeans
McCalls 7948
Paper Theory/Olya Shirt
Olya Shirt Sleeve Detail

April Meetings Start Thursday!!

Hoping to chase away the clouds with some sunny sewing-meetings are at 10:30 am.

Thurs., April 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley (and Fabric Swap!)

Saturday, April 13, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Wednesday, April 17, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

The pockets that made the cut-
And the pockets that didn’t…

March Makes Wednesday/Thursday Edition

Simplicity 7315-modified-in cotton from Japan
Helmi Dress/Named Patterns/cotton
“Husband Shirt” Lauren Boyfriend Shirt/StyleArc/white cotton
Self drafted vest and Vee Neck Dress/The Assembly Line
Tamarack Jacket/Grainline Studio
Salsa Skirt/MacPhee Patterns
Bog Coat in a knit fabric
Vintage Sweater and Skirt
Cielo Dress/Closet Core
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven and Loes Hinse skirt
Burda 5855/stretch cotton
New Look 6585/double faced wool
Ikina 2/Sewing Workshop
Trio Top/Sewing Workshop
Vogue 1868/cotton gauze and cotton
Hudson Pant/True Bias/Bamboo knit
Camp Shirt from KwikSew Book/Cotton and wearing Jalie #2795
2 Donny Shirts/Friday Pattern Co./Liberty of London and poly woven
Liesl & Co. Wynwood Robe/cotton
Milla Top/Just Patterns
Hand knit Sweater
Amazing digitized banner!

March Garment Sewing Group-Debbie & Kristin

Debbie’s Garments:

Combined Jalie #2805 T-Shirts with Jalie 3352 Dolman Tops/Art Gallery cotton jersey knit with spandex

1. To get the Monroe Turtleneck look I combined the neckline of the turtleneck with the body and sleeves of the Dolman. It was an easy hack, quick and fun to sew. A win-win.

VickiSews Abbie Jacket/Plush boucle fleece

1. Fitting adjustments include shortening front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust and shortening sleeve lengths. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed sleeves at hem and cut collar size down by 3/8 inch all around.

2. I did interface the collar, shoulder seams and center fronts and hems. Because I did not line the jacket I did not interface the dart tips.

3. I omitted the pockets also because I did not line the jacket.

4. It is a fun pattern with very good illustrated instructions. If I make it again I would use wool or a boucle.

Elsi Tee from Bernina Inspiration Magazine/Cotton spandex jersey Avalana

1. I love a boat neck tee. The neck on this tee is unique so I had to give it a try.

2. After trying to decipher the printed pattern included in the magazine I decided to trace the neckline pattern pieces only and used them as a template on my favorite tee shirt pattern (Butterick 6848.)

3. The instructions are vague and it seemed just wrong to construct the neckband using the pattern pieces the pattern supplies. Instead I cut a 2 and 1/2 inch strip for the front neckband and did the same for back neckline cutting that strip about 2 inches shorter than front neckband. I quartered the neckline, overlapped the front band over the back band at the shoulder seams and quartered the neckband. Matching the quarters I basted the band to the neckline. Once the band was basted and I was satisfied with the result I went on to complete the tee shirt easily.

4. The magazine is similar to the Burda magazine. Great for Inspiration but not so much for construction.

Itch to Stitch Nussle Joggers/Viscose, nylon and spandex ponte

1. This is a TNT (Tried and True) pattern for me. It is easy to construct, directions are excellent and works well with many types of knits.

April Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, April 11, 10:30, Creative Sewing Apple Valley

Saturday, April 13, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

*Wednesday, April 17, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

*Please note – this is the 3rd Wednesday of the month-not the second Wednesday that we usually schedule

Kristin’s Garments:

Burda 6059/Green activewear knit

1. Thought it might be a nice boxy fit tee but not so much-wider neckline, wider shoulder but not quite drop.

2. Folded the balloon sleeve down to normal sleeve.

3. Neck edge was supposed to be turned under and stitched-no band. I added band and it stood up a bit-not small enough but also doesn’t choke 🙂

4. Fine pattern, just doesn’t earn a spot in my permanent collection.

Monroe Turtleneck/Tessuti (free pattern)/Heavier gray knit
Monroe in Art Gallery stripe knit

1. “Somebody” said it was their favorite turtleneck-looser fitting-so I had to try.

2. Shortened and widened turtleneck and widened sleeve and armhole. Also tried the size 2 vs. size 3 body.

3. Sleeves are quite narrow, even in the Art Gallery knit.

4. After 3 tries I’m going back to “my” favorite turtleneck 🙂

La Veste/Atelier Brunette/Wool blend

1. Originally my muslin, but over time (and experience), I realized that the wide wale corduroy I had intended for the final garment wouldn’t be appropriate so carried on and made wool version my final.

2. Shortened the jacket and sleeves by 1 inch. Otherwise made to pattern with a few detours along the way.

3. The front and back yoke are one piece so the front yoke is on the bias. If I were to make again, I would try with the back on bias instead as the front stretched a bit and wouldn’t I rather have that in the back?

4. The other endearing feature of the pattern is the vents on sleeve and bottom hem. The technique, however, is what would be difficult on a thick fabric. It looks good in the drawing but doesn’t really show up when worn-for all the work that it took. Maybe deepen the hems/vents to 3”?

5. Otherwise the drafting was great, everything went together well. I shortened the body of the longer version by 2” and sleeve by 1”.

Cheryl Stretch Pant/StyleArc/Stretch woven cotton

1. Looking for a straight leg pattern but so many are soooo wide. Maybe what I want should be called relaxed leg? These are 20” at the hem-size 18.

2. Simple back dart and fold over elastic waist. I went up one size as I was in middle but may try down size also.

3. They are called a 7/8 length. I cut to pattern but lengthened at hem 1”.

What We Saw at Lakes Makerie

Here are the makes from Saturday’s Garment Sewing Group meeting-new people too!

Bailey’s sweat shirt
Alabama Chanin details
Marceau Top/Sewing Workshop
Simplicity 9744
Second Sewing for Kids/Kwiksew dress
Cap Sleeve Vest/The Assembly Line and Persephone Pant/Anna Allen
Merlo Field Tee/Sew House Seven in cotton knit
Tabor Vest/Sew House Seven in sweater knit
Fable Dress/Twig and Tale
Two bamboo Toasters (Sew House Seven) on two totally contrasted testers
Designer detail from photo above

February Garment Sewing Group

Another great month of inspirational sewing! Here are the photos and notes from Debbie and Kristin-

Garment Sewing Group

February 2024

Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Largo Cargo Pants/cotton twill gabardine

1. Fitting adjustments include shortening length 1 and 1/2 inches, narrow the leg width from my size at knee to smallest size at hem and straightening out hip curve. I also removed 1/4” from center back seam at waist for about 4 inches due to gapping.

2. I eliminated the strap and belt loops.

3. The pattern has several positives. The instructions are good and there is a video link for zipper insertion. I also like that the zipper shield is included. The waistband and facing are shaped nicely and enhances the overall look of the pants.

4. In my opinion there a few cons – the pocket flap should be interfaced. One side seam should be stitched then side pocket attached and then stitch remaining side seam. Most importantly, the pocket placement lines are difficult to decipher.

5. Overall I feel this is a good pattern. I like the crotch depth and contour waist. I would use this pattern again without the cargo pocket.

New Look 6771/bamboo French terry

1. I shortened the length of the tee by 1 and 1/2 inches.

2. I narrowed the sleeves from the elbow to one inch less at hem.

3. I made the band into a split band.

4. The cons for this pattern is that the neck piece is a lot. The instructions include stay stitching and gathering sleeves before setting in. I don’t feel those steps are necessary on most knits. If I make it again I would remove some width from the neckband and maybe use pleats rather than gathers for the neckband.

Simplicity 9275, Adapted/fleece and jersey knit

1. I made this top last fall and thought I would try it again as a stash buster.

2. I was short on fabric so I used the jersey knit for neckband and pocket trim. I also needed to adjust the sleeves by adding a long cuff.

3. The tee does brighten up winter and uses up fabric scraps but I do not need to make this pattern again!

Upcoming Classes:

Sewing With Knits-One Day Intensive-Wednesday, February 28, 10-4 pm at Quilter’s Haven

Basic & Beyond Sergery-One Day Intensive-Thursday, February 29, 10 am-4 pm

Kristin’s Garments:

Itch to Stitch Andes Jacket/fleece backed soft shell, stretch woven lining

1. Followed directions exactly when making toile. But then I thought I was smarter than the pattern maker for my final garment!! A good argument for making the entire pattern-zips, pockets and all?!

Toile in ponte and seersucker

2. Fit changes-I needed to up size for hips: instead of messing with the pocket area upper and lower piece I cut up into pattern and swung open as needed to avoid pocket area.

3. Drafting is great-all pieces fit together very well. Pocket zippers were in my stash. Ordered main zipper from Wawak and they came quickly but selection is limited for the dual seperating zippers but as long as the jacket is, I had to be able to zip up from bottom.

4. My narrow and regular walking feet were indispensable and hardworking (a Janome feature). Most seams were serged and then topstitched. Didn’t use coverstitch at all.

5. The zip is the last thing to go in and I didn’t put the zip in the toile before I started the final garment. That’s where I thought I was smarter and now I think maybe the pattern maker ran out of steam as the instructions for the zip are pretty basic and I had to do more filling in of the blanks at that point.

6. I was glad I did the zip after hood installation-less jacket to maneuver as I topstitched. A 30” zipper was perfect for the size that I made.

7. Wrinkles were an issue as they didn’t iron out. A run through the washer/dryer…??

8. I like all the details and the fabric choices. Am hoping this is an active wear jacket that will keep necessary parts warm.

9. The toile was fun also and I look forward to putting on a regular collar and adding finishing touches.

New Look 6771/bamboo fleece
New Look 6771/side by side

1. Pants: Added 1” length-should have added more. Pants turned out much baggier than the photo but I am reserving judgment till they come out of the dryer. Perhaps an ankle band?

1. Waistband is wide for just 1” elastic and kind of high. Will cut down.

2. Sweatershirt: As Debbie said, the sleeves are wide at wrist, neck is overdone but I like the feel of it (the fabric!!) and will remove the band (it’s all too long and looks better without) and put a tuck in the sleeve with a band as that makes it more snuggly 🙂

1. I did remove 2” from the neck band and used pleats instead of gathers but it’s a lot to put in and shouldn’t be attempted late at night!

2. I’m glad I put the pocket on-it was surprisingly flat and not pouchy-at least before laundering-

March Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, March 9, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St.Paul

Wednesday, March 13, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, March 14, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

February Makes

We’ve had a great start to our February meetings! Last chance is tomorrow at Lakes Makerie-10:30 am. Hope to see you—

Sewing Workshop Icon Vest
Self drafted motorcycle pants in Cordura-300 denier weight
Love Notions La Bella Donna-knit
Cotton knit dress from KwikSew Sewing for Children book
Simplicity 9272 knit jackets/Blouse-Zen from Now & Zen Sewing Workshop
Back pleat detail from Zen Shirt
Marley Shirt/StyleArc in wool challis
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven in sweater knit
Toaster Sweater (other version) in short sleeves with Brussels Skirt/Loes Hinse with the perfect boots to boot!!
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop in lightweight Japanese cotton
Vintage Board Shirt in Pendleton wool
Florence Shirt/Sewing Workshop back detail
Simplicity 9825 and 9471 mashup in brushed cotton
Final version of vintage and self drafted vest
One jacket became another-based on Vogue 8676
Back view
Burda 6322 in japanese cotton
Clare Coat/Closet Core in wool
Day brightener lining!!

Saturday’s Makes in January

Loden Sweater/Dressmaker’s Guild in boiled wool
Burda 8168
Andes Jacket/Itch to Stitch
Ilford Jacket/Friday Pattern Company
Simplicity 9198 vest
Vetiver Dress/Peony Patterns
The Assembly Line Shirt in flannel
Sharon Holland bag in Miss Matatabi fabric
Burda 7045 men’s shirt and Vogue 9347
Burda 8296
Favorite tee Vogue 9057
Hand knit sweater in exchange for corduroy shirt
Jalie T-shirt and runners from paperpieces.com