Garment Sewing Group
January 2024
Debbie’s Garments:
This is an unlined jacket pattern but since I was using a wool I wanted to line it. I drafted a pattern for the front and back lining. I did some “light” tailoring by interfacing all hems and using a wigum (sleeve head) in the sleeve cap. I also bagged the lining.
1. The collar piece in the pattern is rounded. However the pattern picture, line drawing and instruction sheet show the collar squared off. I adjusted the collar piece to look like pattern.
2. The pattern is labeled super easy. Hopefully even though the pattern does not mention stay stitching or understitching most sewers would use these techniques.
3. I appreciate the bust darts – gives the jacket less boxy look.
4. The pattern calls for hand sewn snaps that do not show for the closure. I don’t think I will use any closures.
1. I heard good things about this pattern so I thought I would give it a try and compare it to another TNT shirt pattern in my stash.
2. Fit changes that I made include shortening between shoulder and bust, removing 3 inches in length and a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. I did change order of construction because I like to work with the piece flat as long as possible.
4. The directions for the shirt are very good. They include the burrito method for the yoke and the collar and neckband directions are excellent.
5. The band is a sew on and the directions have you sew rs of band to ws of shirt which gives a clean finish. I used my standard machine for construction and French seams as well as my serger.
6. I feel it is a very good pattern and I will use it again but will soften the hemline curve and change the gathered yoke to a pleat.
1. This is the TNT shirt pattern I referred to above.
2. Some of the differences between the McCalls and Kwiksew pattern are that the seam allowance for KS is 1/4 inch, sleeve construction is flat and the band is cut on the front, no facing.
3. I used French seams as much as possible because of the color of the shirt. I am not sure I like the feel of the French seam on both shirts in the armhole.
4. Also the McCalls shirt has bust darts. You can easily add vertical darts on front and back of Kwik sew pattern to get a more fitted look.
5. I like both patterns and they will both be a TNT in my pattern stash.
February Garment Sewing Group
*Moved up one week – Wednesday, February 7, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St.Paul
Thursday, February 8th, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, February 10, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Several people have shown this pattern (free! only pay for printing) but I guess I wasn’t listening very well. It is made for boiled wool and has unfinished hems and outside facing seams. But the pattern was already cut out (I did wonder about the vent cut outs…
2. The velvet looked more refined so I didn’t expose any seams plus the fabric would have shed for a while and it also rolls.
3. The sleeves are extra long so you can fold them up so I shortened them.
4. The collar was single layer but I sewed two together and love the result.
5. The vents were angled up into the seam allowance-happy with that too.
6. I had three buttons but the thickness of the collar allowed only two so I put the last one on the pocket 🙂
1. Several people have also made this raglan turtleneck (neck has two pieces) and it was waiting in my pattern stash. Love raglans, especially when sewing for family and size range can’t be beat.
2. Also love the cuff (didn’t do the thumb hole). Finishes up a turtle so nicely.
3. The turtleneck is doubled and at first I thought too much but it grew on me. Great fit all over as usual for Jalie. Another favorite turtleneck pattern!!
Ruby Joggers/Paprika Patterns
1. I had an earlier pair in my closet that was seeing a lot of wear so I thought I’d try them again. I had thrown away the pattern (should have been a hint!) so had to reorder.
2. Chose my size but yoke in back was way too big.
3. Made some necessary changes and then some more! and they are OK but again the pattern will not stay in rotation (and I’ll make a note somewhere (?) to not try again.
4. I did learn one thing tho-the pocket bag that is totally sewn into the side seam gives a smoother finish for me than the pocket that is only partially sewn into seam and then hangs.
1. Beautiful vintage blouse with lots of tuck/darts at the waist but, alas, not for me! After much tailor tacking and knot tying, the blouse would not fit around me so out they all came!!
2. Lowered bust dart 1 inch and could have lowered a bit more.
3. Underarms were high along with tight circumference so 5/8” side seam became 1/4”.
4. Sleeves were 3/4 length so added about 3” and changed the cuff.
5. Stripes were fun-I’m tempted to buy more fabric and try some shadowing.
6. It was a fun sew-maybe again in summer and a larger size!!
Fashion TV to watch- Jan. 19, Disney “Cristobal Balenciaga” and Feb. 14, Apple TV “The New Look” about Christian Dior and contemporaries.
Material Girl Sewing 