October’s Garment Sewing Group Pics and Pattern Review

Missing two pics but someone is across the Pond :))

New class starting Thursday, November 2-Garment Sewing 2.0, 10-12 pm at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Meant for those of you coming back to sewing for yourself and not sure where to start-indie patterns, new fabrics, changed body!!! Make a garment while brushing up on skillzzzz.

Debbie’s Garments:

Pauline Alice Tello Jacket/Cotton Stretch Twill

1. The only fit adjustment I made was a narrow shoulder.

2. I interfaced the collar and facings – pattern does not use interfacing. However I was surprised how often the serger was mentioned for seam finishes.

3. The construction method is done while most of the jacket is flat except for sleeves. I did set in sleeves, buttonholes and then the hem.

4. Other than putting the buttonholes too far in from center I am really happy with it, especially the pockets. The jacket is a fun make and the directions are very good.

Brick/Tan Raglan Tee

Butterick 6207, view A with curved hem

1. This is my favorite pattern for a Raglan tee. Great for layering under my utility jacket.

Cream Banded Turtleneck

Simplicity 9385, View D

Ribbed sweater knit blend

1. Another TNT pattern.

2. The knit is very drapey so I added the band to prevent the length of the fabric to grow.

3. As the weather gets cooler I will layer this under my utility jacket.

4. I was pleasantly surprised to find two classic shirts in my closet that with also layer well with this jacket. I have a mini capsule!

Tartan Plaid Peplum Shirt

Burda 5971, View B/Cotton

1. I adjusted fit by narrowing shoulder, shortened between shoulder and bust, shortened 1 inch between waist and peplum hem and shortened sleeve 1 inch.

2. The sleeve calls for a basic 1 inch hem but I did a split cuff instead.

3. Instead of adding belt loops for belt I secured belt at center back just below peplum seam.

4. Matching the plaid for this pattern was difficult. I let the pattern photo fool me. I would make this again but definitely not in a plaid!

Style Arc Josie Hoodie (no hood)/Novelty poly knit

1. Did not do any fit adjustments.

2. Instead of using facings for the hood I lined it with a lightweight ponte knit. Nixed the hood and added a cowl/turtle neck instead. I also faced the hem with the same ponte.

3. I did not add draw strings to bottom hem.

4. It’s a fun top and easy to make.

5. A lighter weight and more pliable fabric would work better for the hood.

Kristin’s Garments:

Simplicity 8797, View C/Berber fleece

1. Cut shoulders, neck, armhole and sleeves as Small-remainder in Medium.

2. Pattern has lining pieces. I cut a back neck facing instead of lining. Used ponte fabric for facing.

3. Used lining fabric for pockets for slipperiness.

4. Topstitching made the berber look cheap and crushed so I handtacked in numerous places to keep facing in place.

5. Went together well, collar’s inside corner turns well. Serged most seams but curves and collar sewn on sewing machine. Snuggly coat!

Burda 5855/Novelty fabric and heavy rib knit

1. Pattern is made for wovens or faux fur-I subbed rib knit for sleeves and collar.

2. I was attracted to the vertical “bust” dart. It is trimmed after sewing. Fabric frayed so I zigzagged.

3. Pattern calls for interfacing both upper and under collar which I did since it was a knit. Pattern directions show a corner on the collar but the pattern piece is definitely rounded and the photos also show a rounded corner.

4. I didn’t originally interface the front facing but after pinning the heavy collar into the flimsy main fabric I added a wide strip to center fronts.

5. Sleeve is two pieces which I kept even tho it was a knit. Sleeve head went in well-didn’t need to cut down and it isn’t a sloppy fit.

6. Pocket seemed small and not useful and I didn’t have any of the woven fabric left so no pocket.

7. Another Burda winner pattern for me!

VikiSews Alya Tee/cotton knit

1. Had to make it once more-comfy tee-boxy fit.

Lark Tee Grainline Studios/Cotton knit

1. Looking for the perfect tee-not sure this one is it. Very high sleeve cap that makes for sloppy armhole.

November Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, November 9, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, November 11, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St.Paul

Wednesday, November 15, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

October’s Wednesday Pics

Today we meet at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley and Saturday at Ginny’s in Rochester. Carpool, anyone?

Here’s what we saw at Sewing Lounge for Wednesday’s Garment Sewing Group!

Simplicity 9385 Top, Dress # TBD
Great back detail
Butterick 6328 Jacket
Vogue 8906 and Lark Tee Grainline Studio
Vogue Rachel Comey pants
Butterick 6283
Lisbon Sweater Itch to Stitch
Fehrtrade Quarter Zip
Version 2 & 3 of above pattern
Jalie Victor Board Short
Jazzy Suit Coat
Juliet Shirt Stylearc Patterns
Butterick 6247 almost 🙂
Jalie Helene Sweater and Sewing Workshop Splice Top
Vogue 1907
Great hood detail
McCall’s 7390
Love Notions Melody Shirt
Friday Pattern Company Donny Shirt
What can happen if you cut off the head of a cat…

Serger Class Starting October 5

Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts on Thursday, October 5, 10-12 pm, at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Please contact the store to register-2 spots left! Phone is 952-431-6688.

Here are the last of the photos from September’s Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Beautiful shirtdress in Liberty of London
Tabor V-Neck/Sew House Seven/sweater knit
Tabor V-Neck/Sew House Seven/sweater knit
Vintage McCalls
Archie Shirt/StyleArc and Vogue 9022 dress
StyleArc Shacket in home dec fabric

Garment Sewing Group

September 2023

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 7062 pant/stretch denim and Simplicity 9275/cotton interlock

Burda 7062-I like the contour waistband, side zip and ankle slits.

Simplicity 9275, View A, without pockets

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. Quick and easy make and the fabric was also easy to sew.

2. Due to weight of fabric I did a single layer hem versus a narrow hem as pattern instructs.

McCalls MP457/7194 OOP-cotton/poly blend

1. TNT pattern that is easily hacked. The fabric makes this Tee.

Zipper Sleeved Tee/Vogue 1635/blended double knit

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeves. Also shortened sleeve length by one inch and length of body 2 inches.

2. I appreciated the pattern instructions regarding cutting interfacing – nice tip.

3. To create less bulk and to construct as much as the garment flat I changed the order of construction. I constructed the left sleeve with zipper first rather than what the pattern instructs. I also do shoulder seams, neck edge before any side seams if possible.

4. The pattern instructions lack any mention of clean finishing zipper edge. No mention of serger – instead you are instructed to double stitch.

5. It’s a fun pattern that puts a standard tee  up a notch. 

Last of my summer Makes:

Grainline Studio Willow Tank/rayon

1. Shortened 1 inch between waist and hip.

2. Changed order of construction – Stitch one shoulder seam, apply first strip of bias binding, stitch other shoulder seam and complete binding construction. I used serged wrapped method of applying binding.

3. Great pattern – definitely will become a TNT.

Love Notions Classic Tee/cotton interlock
McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848 top and Jalie Eleonore pant

Kristin’s Garments

Alta Tee/VikiSews/cotton knit
Alta Tee/VikiSews/rayon knit

1. Looking for an oversized, but not sloppy, tee.

2. Klimt fabric is cotton and neckband fit pretty close.

3. Navy is rayon and heavier and drapier.

4. Correct pattern, great basic.

Tarifa Tee French Navy Patterns/rayon and cotton knits

1. Stripe is rayon/botanical print is cotton. Fun pattern.

2. Front hem shorter than back.

Donny Shirt Friday Pattern Company/linen

1. Fun shirt pattern with back yoke and gathered back.

2. Instructions for front yoke are very good.

3. Hand stitched hems.

Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/lightweight denim
Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/flannel

1. This pattern is a bit narrower than Barry Pant/Stylearc and not quite as bubbly.

2. Hem facing and 3 darts make the leg shape. I added 3” to length.

3. Lots of interesting sewing techniques, especially the pockets and paper bag waistband but I didn’t want those options.

MultiSport Skort Jalie Patterns/activewear knit

1. Added 4” to length of skirt and pant underneath.

2. Fabric was good to sew on. Clips were easier than pins.

3. Made waistband half the width but the stretch of knit was different and wish I would have made it wider.

October Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, October 11, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, October 12, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, October 14, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester  

Thursday and Saturday Meeting Pics

September meetings will finish at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester tomorrow, Sept. 20. Good times were had at Creative Sewing and Lakes Makerie as evidenced by the photos below:

Lily Jacket from Decades of Style
Karine Cardigan from Jalie Patterns
Simplicity 8878 blouse with faux tie
First pattern from Nani Iro sewing book
Cadence from Love Notions
Vogue 9085 in cotton from Japan 🙂
Jalie Dolman in dress length
Bride’s Robe-pattern copied from RTW
Truly one of a kind-
Kayla Shirt from Alexander Morgan Patterns
Sweepstakes Winner at the State Fair!!!
KwikSew 3915-Matching chairs compliments of Lakes Makerie
Greenstyle Boxers in cotton
And technical active wear fabric
Bodobo Bags Pucker Up Project Bag from Etsy
Inside view
Stretch and Sew 3036 with some upscale details
Tee with a difference-Concord Tee from Cashmerette
Vogue 1925 Marcy Tilton Jacket

Meetings underway!

Here are Wednesday/Lakes Makerie pics from Garment Sewing Group. We’re at Creative Sewing/Apple Valley today/Thursday and Sewing Lounge/St. Paul on Saturday! 10:30 am always 🙂

Zero Waste Gather Dress
Perfect addition-a bow!
Tapered Mitchell Trousers with wow! pockets-and a handknit sweater to boot!
Liberty of London silk in Curso Top/Cashmerette
Wedding dresses-self drafted
And for the flower girl-Baby Holland Dress/Little Lizard King
Vogue 9341 for grandmother of the bride modeled by Sue (not the maker or part of the wedding 🙂
Eureka Tops/Sewing Workshop and self drafted pants
Urban Pant and Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop
Butterick 6138

More Inspiration from July

July saw our largest attendance for a very long time-thanks to everyone who follows us and makes garment sewing and the sharing of it a priority. It wouldn’t be as awesome without all of you!!

August meetings start on Wednesday, Aug. 9 at Lakes Makerie, Thursday, Aug. 10 at Creative Sewing and Saturday, Aug. 12, Sewing Lounge all starting at 10:30 am.

So here is some of what we saw in July (Saturday’s pics have been posted previously).

McCalls 7969
Art Inspired Top-Sewing Workshop
Summer Fit and Flare-McCalls
Tie dye-Stretch & Sew 333, Eureka Top and Valencia Pant-Sewing Workshop
OOP pattern/knit summer dress
Fehr Trade Adventure Travel Pants and Seamwork Willis Shirt in rayon
Corset-sorry no pattern #
Itch to Stitch Santorini after much work 🙂
Alabama Chanin inspired embellishment
Sewing Workshop Now and Zen
McCalls 7635
McCalls 8001
Vogue 1689
Ahead of season or behind? Beautiful either way 🙂
Silhouette Patterns Sonya’s Blouse, modified, also used Sinclair Patterns Thumb Pack
Noah Shirt-Fabricstore Patterns
McCalls 7122
McCalls 7194 and some cute little girl sewing
Let’s hear it for the boys 🙂 Burda 9322

July Garment Sewing Group

Garment Sewing Group

July 2023

Debbie’s Garments:

McCalls 2401, available online, Japanese cotton

1. This is my TNT pattern for shift dresses. Petite adjustments are included in the pattern which is a timesaver for me. 

2. The facing is eliminated  –  I used serged bias binding and added the flounce to sleeve. I especially like putting in the zipper using Becky’s method-

1. Interface seam allowances on zipper seam.

2. Clean finish seam allowances.

3. Stitch zipper seam 1 to 1 1/2 inches from the top of seam, stop and secure seam.

4. Leave an opening the length of the zipper minus one inch.

5. Continue to sew seam from bottom of zipper opening to bottom of garment seam, backstitching at start of the seam.

6. Insert zipper and stitch about one inch further than zipper opening.

7. You will need to wiggle the zipper pull up between both sides of zipper to close the first time.

8. Ta da! A beautiful zipper insertion without the fussiness at the top of the zipper and facing.

Navy Dot Jacket

Harriet Jacket by Style Arc, Japanese Cotton

1. Fitting adjustments includes petite  between shoulders and bust, narrow shoulder adjustment and shortened sleeve length.

2.  Optional to line jacket – I lined my jacket with Bemberg Rayon.

3.  Typical Style Arc pattern as far as instructions go. I did change order of construction and button placement.           

Itch to Stitch Santorini Tank, Linen and Jalie Vanessa Pant

1. I shortened front and back between shoulder and bust and shortened body length at hem by one inch.  Due to close fit I needed to go from small to larger from bust to hip but easy to do with pattern instructions.

2. This is a fun pattern. Lots of line drawings for excellent construction details, especially the Burrito method for facing.

3. Not necessary to do button placket but it is a great design feature.

Jalie Vanessa Pants

Another TNT pattern. I have made construction changes – the fly is eliminated and I use a one piece waistband – I am now able to sew them up in just a couple of hours.

Love Notions Melody Dolman Blouse, Hugo Boss Cotton Elastic

I made this pattern last year and it has become a favorite.

Kristin’s Garments:

Jalie Melanie #3889, Japanese cottons

1. Pattern is very similar to a kimono-body pieces are perfect rectangles. By butting pieces to each other, cutting is streamlined and waste is minimal.

2. Because the seams are 3/8” I serged most of them. Underarm sleeve omits clipping to corner but it is necessary-I stitched it with straight machine first, clipped and then serged.

3. Good, basic kimono pattern and I love the fish-but are they right side up or upside down??

Klimt Summer Dress

Burda 6221, cotton knit

1. The pattern is for woven but I wanted to give it a try in a knit first. Bust dart and no interruption of my art work 🙂

2. Flounce is supposed to be single layer, which I tried first but the white “wrong” side of the fabric was too stark so flounce is doubled and stiffer than the single but looks better.

3. Knit fabric doesn’t support the flounce very well, if I make it again in a knit I will cut the facing from woven fabric-I don’t think a stiffer interfacing will do the trick.

Butterick 5456 (still available on simplicity.com website), cotton knit

1. Loved the color and print of the fabric. Have made the pattern before but wanted sleeveless this time. Also, pattern calls for double layered bodice and that got too heavy last time I made it.

2. Love the cut out in back. Finished edges with a 1” strip and sewed together instead of ties.

3. Messed around with fit and all. Will find a pattern closer to what I want next time.

4. Tried garment as a maxi as I had plenty of fabric but short was more fun.

August 2023 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, August 9, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, August 10, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, August 12, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Big Day Saturday!

July’s meetings started with a bang at Ginny’s-29 people for a Saturday meeting was AWESOME!! And then Ginny gave everybody 20% off!

Wednesday we meet at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul at 10:30.

Thursday meeting is at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley at 10:30 with a fabric swap.

Here are some highlights from Saturday:

Classic Linda with Stylearc Archie shirt and a very happy Ginny in the background 🙂
The Donny Shirt from Friday Pattern Co.
Tropical Shirt -Made By Me patterns
McCall’s 8409
Kinfolk Dress by Jennifer Lauren Handmade
Butterick 4684 with pintucks and specialty stitches
Burda 6041
Butterick 6569
Sewing Workshop Florence Shirt
Charlie Shirt by Fabricstore.com
Patterns for Pirates Grandpa Sweater
Galicia Shirt from Itch to Stitch
Butterick 6768
All the way from Texas in a New Look dress
Metra Blazer from Love Notions

Change of Venue for Thursday Meetings

First off, Saturday, July 8th, is our July Garment Sewing Group meeting at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester. If you’d like to carpool please email or text Kristin @ materialgirlsewing@gmail.com/952.201.3863

Secondly, Wednesday, July 12th, we are at the Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.

Here’s the change: Thursday, July 13, we will meet at Creative Sewing, 14861 Granada Av., Apple Valley. Fabric swap will continue!

We’ve had a long and wonderful run at First Sewing but feel it’s time for a change-just when you thought you knew the schedule!!

Creative Sewing has agreed to let us rent their classroom space on Thursdays for Garment Sewing Group and Sew Social. We will also teach serger classes there on Thursdays.

We tried to stay a bit more central but churches didn’t seem a good fit as we’d have to bring more supplies. Most stores have small classrooms (JoAnn/Edina converted theirs into an order processing center). On the other hand, it is more south and we always had new people come to the SR Harris meeting-we assume it was a location thing?

The store is just off Cedar and 42. We hope you’ll give it a try if Thursday is your favorite meeting to attend.

One of our graduate’s latest projects