October’s Garment Sewing Group Pics and Pattern Review

Missing two pics but someone is across the Pond :))

New class starting Thursday, November 2-Garment Sewing 2.0, 10-12 pm at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Meant for those of you coming back to sewing for yourself and not sure where to start-indie patterns, new fabrics, changed body!!! Make a garment while brushing up on skillzzzz.

Debbie’s Garments:

Pauline Alice Tello Jacket/Cotton Stretch Twill

1. The only fit adjustment I made was a narrow shoulder.

2. I interfaced the collar and facings – pattern does not use interfacing. However I was surprised how often the serger was mentioned for seam finishes.

3. The construction method is done while most of the jacket is flat except for sleeves. I did set in sleeves, buttonholes and then the hem.

4. Other than putting the buttonholes too far in from center I am really happy with it, especially the pockets. The jacket is a fun make and the directions are very good.

Brick/Tan Raglan Tee

Butterick 6207, view A with curved hem

1. This is my favorite pattern for a Raglan tee. Great for layering under my utility jacket.

Cream Banded Turtleneck

Simplicity 9385, View D

Ribbed sweater knit blend

1. Another TNT pattern.

2. The knit is very drapey so I added the band to prevent the length of the fabric to grow.

3. As the weather gets cooler I will layer this under my utility jacket.

4. I was pleasantly surprised to find two classic shirts in my closet that with also layer well with this jacket. I have a mini capsule!

Tartan Plaid Peplum Shirt

Burda 5971, View B/Cotton

1. I adjusted fit by narrowing shoulder, shortened between shoulder and bust, shortened 1 inch between waist and peplum hem and shortened sleeve 1 inch.

2. The sleeve calls for a basic 1 inch hem but I did a split cuff instead.

3. Instead of adding belt loops for belt I secured belt at center back just below peplum seam.

4. Matching the plaid for this pattern was difficult. I let the pattern photo fool me. I would make this again but definitely not in a plaid!

Style Arc Josie Hoodie (no hood)/Novelty poly knit

1. Did not do any fit adjustments.

2. Instead of using facings for the hood I lined it with a lightweight ponte knit. Nixed the hood and added a cowl/turtle neck instead. I also faced the hem with the same ponte.

3. I did not add draw strings to bottom hem.

4. It’s a fun top and easy to make.

5. A lighter weight and more pliable fabric would work better for the hood.

Kristin’s Garments:

Simplicity 8797, View C/Berber fleece

1. Cut shoulders, neck, armhole and sleeves as Small-remainder in Medium.

2. Pattern has lining pieces. I cut a back neck facing instead of lining. Used ponte fabric for facing.

3. Used lining fabric for pockets for slipperiness.

4. Topstitching made the berber look cheap and crushed so I handtacked in numerous places to keep facing in place.

5. Went together well, collar’s inside corner turns well. Serged most seams but curves and collar sewn on sewing machine. Snuggly coat!

Burda 5855/Novelty fabric and heavy rib knit

1. Pattern is made for wovens or faux fur-I subbed rib knit for sleeves and collar.

2. I was attracted to the vertical “bust” dart. It is trimmed after sewing. Fabric frayed so I zigzagged.

3. Pattern calls for interfacing both upper and under collar which I did since it was a knit. Pattern directions show a corner on the collar but the pattern piece is definitely rounded and the photos also show a rounded corner.

4. I didn’t originally interface the front facing but after pinning the heavy collar into the flimsy main fabric I added a wide strip to center fronts.

5. Sleeve is two pieces which I kept even tho it was a knit. Sleeve head went in well-didn’t need to cut down and it isn’t a sloppy fit.

6. Pocket seemed small and not useful and I didn’t have any of the woven fabric left so no pocket.

7. Another Burda winner pattern for me!

VikiSews Alya Tee/cotton knit

1. Had to make it once more-comfy tee-boxy fit.

Lark Tee Grainline Studios/Cotton knit

1. Looking for the perfect tee-not sure this one is it. Very high sleeve cap that makes for sloppy armhole.

November Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, November 9, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, November 11, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St.Paul

Wednesday, November 15, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

October’s Wednesday Pics

Today we meet at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley and Saturday at Ginny’s in Rochester. Carpool, anyone?

Here’s what we saw at Sewing Lounge for Wednesday’s Garment Sewing Group!

Simplicity 9385 Top, Dress # TBD
Great back detail
Butterick 6328 Jacket
Vogue 8906 and Lark Tee Grainline Studio
Vogue Rachel Comey pants
Butterick 6283
Lisbon Sweater Itch to Stitch
Fehrtrade Quarter Zip
Version 2 & 3 of above pattern
Jalie Victor Board Short
Jazzy Suit Coat
Juliet Shirt Stylearc Patterns
Butterick 6247 almost 🙂
Jalie Helene Sweater and Sewing Workshop Splice Top
Vogue 1907
Great hood detail
McCall’s 7390
Love Notions Melody Shirt
Friday Pattern Company Donny Shirt
What can happen if you cut off the head of a cat…

Serger Class Starting October 5

Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts on Thursday, October 5, 10-12 pm, at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Please contact the store to register-2 spots left! Phone is 952-431-6688.

Here are the last of the photos from September’s Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Beautiful shirtdress in Liberty of London
Tabor V-Neck/Sew House Seven/sweater knit
Tabor V-Neck/Sew House Seven/sweater knit
Vintage McCalls
Archie Shirt/StyleArc and Vogue 9022 dress
StyleArc Shacket in home dec fabric

Garment Sewing Group

September 2023

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 7062 pant/stretch denim and Simplicity 9275/cotton interlock

Burda 7062-I like the contour waistband, side zip and ankle slits.

Simplicity 9275, View A, without pockets

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. Quick and easy make and the fabric was also easy to sew.

2. Due to weight of fabric I did a single layer hem versus a narrow hem as pattern instructs.

McCalls MP457/7194 OOP-cotton/poly blend

1. TNT pattern that is easily hacked. The fabric makes this Tee.

Zipper Sleeved Tee/Vogue 1635/blended double knit

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeves. Also shortened sleeve length by one inch and length of body 2 inches.

2. I appreciated the pattern instructions regarding cutting interfacing – nice tip.

3. To create less bulk and to construct as much as the garment flat I changed the order of construction. I constructed the left sleeve with zipper first rather than what the pattern instructs. I also do shoulder seams, neck edge before any side seams if possible.

4. The pattern instructions lack any mention of clean finishing zipper edge. No mention of serger – instead you are instructed to double stitch.

5. It’s a fun pattern that puts a standard tee  up a notch. 

Last of my summer Makes:

Grainline Studio Willow Tank/rayon

1. Shortened 1 inch between waist and hip.

2. Changed order of construction – Stitch one shoulder seam, apply first strip of bias binding, stitch other shoulder seam and complete binding construction. I used serged wrapped method of applying binding.

3. Great pattern – definitely will become a TNT.

Love Notions Classic Tee/cotton interlock
McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848 top and Jalie Eleonore pant

Kristin’s Garments

Alta Tee/VikiSews/cotton knit
Alta Tee/VikiSews/rayon knit

1. Looking for an oversized, but not sloppy, tee.

2. Klimt fabric is cotton and neckband fit pretty close.

3. Navy is rayon and heavier and drapier.

4. Correct pattern, great basic.

Tarifa Tee French Navy Patterns/rayon and cotton knits

1. Stripe is rayon/botanical print is cotton. Fun pattern.

2. Front hem shorter than back.

Donny Shirt Friday Pattern Company/linen

1. Fun shirt pattern with back yoke and gathered back.

2. Instructions for front yoke are very good.

3. Hand stitched hems.

Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/lightweight denim
Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/flannel

1. This pattern is a bit narrower than Barry Pant/Stylearc and not quite as bubbly.

2. Hem facing and 3 darts make the leg shape. I added 3” to length.

3. Lots of interesting sewing techniques, especially the pockets and paper bag waistband but I didn’t want those options.

MultiSport Skort Jalie Patterns/activewear knit

1. Added 4” to length of skirt and pant underneath.

2. Fabric was good to sew on. Clips were easier than pins.

3. Made waistband half the width but the stretch of knit was different and wish I would have made it wider.

October Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, October 11, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, October 12, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, October 14, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester  

Thursday and Saturday Meeting Pics

September meetings will finish at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester tomorrow, Sept. 20. Good times were had at Creative Sewing and Lakes Makerie as evidenced by the photos below:

Lily Jacket from Decades of Style
Karine Cardigan from Jalie Patterns
Simplicity 8878 blouse with faux tie
First pattern from Nani Iro sewing book
Cadence from Love Notions
Vogue 9085 in cotton from Japan 🙂
Jalie Dolman in dress length
Bride’s Robe-pattern copied from RTW
Truly one of a kind-
Kayla Shirt from Alexander Morgan Patterns
Sweepstakes Winner at the State Fair!!!
KwikSew 3915-Matching chairs compliments of Lakes Makerie
Greenstyle Boxers in cotton
And technical active wear fabric
Bodobo Bags Pucker Up Project Bag from Etsy
Inside view
Stretch and Sew 3036 with some upscale details
Tee with a difference-Concord Tee from Cashmerette
Vogue 1925 Marcy Tilton Jacket

Sewing Retreat 1.0 and Congrats to State Fair Winners!

Let’s congratulate the state fair winners that we know of-if you have photos, please send and I will add to post-

Maggie and her Chanel jacket
Julia’s artistic woven tee
Sandra’s Teahouse Dress
Pat’s shacket
And linen skirt
Bernie’s jacket
Bernie’s shirt
Brenda’s shirt dress
Brenda’s board shorts/swim suit
Brenda’s men’s jacket
And the Sweepstakes Winner, Pam!!!
Pam’s other entry 🙂

Send me a photo and name if I’ve missed your winning entry!

Sewing Retreat 1.0

Ever since we built the “barn” I’ve wanted to host a retreat and last week presented a great opportunity. Nine brave sewists packed their bags (yes, they had to bring toilet paper 🙂 and joined me at the farm on Tuesday.

Somebody may have been taking a nap during photo…

The weather was perfect and we sewed with the big doors open until the sun came around and started heating up our space. The evenings were cool so we slept with open windows.

Homemade pizza, sandwiches from the new local shop and dinner at Scarlet Kitchen in Red Wing complemented the goodies and snacks everyone brought to share.

Walks, tai chi, chair massages and, oh, and were we supposed to sew??

Did we ever! It was so quiet with the focused sewing that we had to play background music 🙂

Rated a great success by all involved, watch for the next offering as there will be a 2.0!

Super blue moon that watched over us each night

August’s Last of Sew and Tell

As you plan your fall sewing, here are photos from the remaining August meetings of Garment Sewing Group to inspire you-

Ballad Blouse/Love Notions/hemp fabric
Ohnde Jacket/Sewing Workshop
Helix Top/Sewing Workshop
Surprise showing from Katie in Burda two piece knit outfit-thanks for taking the time, Katie!!
Burnside Bibs/Sew House Seven X 2 and Lark Tee/Grainline Studio
Jutland Pant/Thread Theory/linen
Vogue 9338 Jacket/linen
Splice Top/Sewing Workshop
Elodie/Closet Core/rayon
New Look 6597
Donny Shirt/Friday Pattern Co. on hanger, Cottage Shirt/Sewing Workshop on Linda, Stylearc Marley Shirt/rose linen on hanger
Verdun Woven Tee/Liesl and Co. New Look 1698 skirt
Simplicity 8640
Vivace/Love Notions
Cottage Shirt/Now and Zen/Sewing Workshop
Picasso Pant/Sewing Workshop
Vogue 1706
Hand dyed during trip to India

August Garment Sewing Group

Here are the garments and pattern review made by Debbie and Kristin in August:

Debbie’s Garments:

Jalie Vanessa Pants/cotton linen blend
McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848 tee/cotton jersey

Summer Blue Pants

Jalie Vanessa Pants

Cotton/linen blend

1. A favorite relaxed pant pattern due to the fit and comfort.

2. I do change the construction techniques. – I use a one piece waistband with no drawstring insertion. I also shorten the width of the band and use 1 and 1/2 inch elastic rather than 2 and1/2 that pattern calls for.

Copied RTW using McCalls 6964 (Butterick 6848)

1. Tees are my summer staple and I am always looking for an added detail. In this case I added contrast cuffs and a side insert – it breaks up the print and adds some interest.

2. I removed 2 and 1/2 inches from front and back side seams starting at hem and going up to nothing 6 inches from armhole cut edge, including seam allowance. 

3. I didn’t want black contrast at my face so I added interfaced neck facings instead of neckband.

Jordan Jacket by Serendipity Studio/cotton linen blend

1. Fit adjustments including shortening between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeves, narrow shoulder adjustments and shortened the sleeves. I did not shorten length.

2. The construction techniques work as pattern directs but would do it different next time. 

3. When it came time to construct the cuff I did it my way – the pattern does a very unusual placket insertion on sleeve- I felt I could make it easier and better looking. I also do not care for inside upper pocket finish. 

4. Overall it is a good jean jacket pattern and if and when I make another I would use this pattern.

Itch to Stitch Lago Tank and Love Notions Laundry Day Dress/rayon jersey knit

1. I made a tee first as my muslin to check out fit and drape. I was satisfied with the results and went on to make the dress with changes.

2. Shortened length one inch and use straight hem. 

3. I raised the front neckline one inch.

4. Quick and easy make that could be a summer staple.

Itch to Stitch Lago Tank

Love Notions Laundry Day Tee

Itch to Stitch Lago Tank (pictured 2 above)

1. I had left over fabric from Laundry Day Tee so I thought I would give this free pattern a try.

2. I raised the neckline 1 inch and shortened the length 1 inch. 

3. I made the neckband and armhole bands wider than pattern.

4. Tanks are in my wardrobe to be worn under tops or as pj tops. For the little amount of fabric required and the ease in constructing the tank I will keep this pattern close and cut more of them to make good use of my left over knits.

Kristin’s Garments:

Burda 6525/textured cotton

1. Great pattern for leftover narrow pieces-had to selvage this fabric!

2. Lots of seams make for easy fit adjustments at hip. Bias finishes at neck and armhole.

Knit Robe

Butterick 5963/Marcy Tilton poly knit

1. Side tie is what drew me to the pattern. Basic assembly-attaching band at tie point is a bit fiddley but works well. I reinforced with fusible interfacing at front facing/band points.

2. Fabric print attracted me-fabric content should have stopped me 🙂

Butterick 5963/light cotton print

1. Old pattern/still in print. Always wanted to try the tank. Many fine tuning fit adjustments and I still didn’t look like the drawing (!)

2. Had fun making shell tuck edging on bias binding and applying to neck and arm edges.

Elodie Wrap Dress by Closet Core/linen

1. The waistband was the draw on this pattern. Had an inspiration pic I wanted to copy.

2. Followed pattern with very few exceptions but eliminated left tie wrapping all the way around as waistband is close fitting. Attached band at left side seam and love it that way.

3. A straight skirt would be a great variation to this pattern.

Lyric Dress by Love Notions/Rayon

1. Inspiration pic pointed to Chalk & Notch Fringe Dress or Lyric. I chose Lyric because of the set in sleeve and closer bodice fit. Fringe Dress pics always had a back tie or didn’t look like what I was after.

2. Shortened bodice two inches to change the look.

3. Construction went quickly with bias bindings on neck. I chose to let binding show instead of turning under which gave some sweet angles to the ending points. Turning under the center front facing made it easy and neat.

4. Eliminated the front vertical darts as bodice is close fitting. Added to front and back armscye based on previous experience with Love Notions patterns.

5. Skirt has two options-I chose the straight gathered option and used the width of the fabric instead of a more gathered skirt as suggested by pattern.

September  2023 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, September 13, 10:30, Ginny’s in Rochester

Thursday, September 14, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, September 16, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Meetings underway!

Here are Wednesday/Lakes Makerie pics from Garment Sewing Group. We’re at Creative Sewing/Apple Valley today/Thursday and Sewing Lounge/St. Paul on Saturday! 10:30 am always 🙂

Zero Waste Gather Dress
Perfect addition-a bow!
Tapered Mitchell Trousers with wow! pockets-and a handknit sweater to boot!
Liberty of London silk in Curso Top/Cashmerette
Wedding dresses-self drafted
And for the flower girl-Baby Holland Dress/Little Lizard King
Vogue 9341 for grandmother of the bride modeled by Sue (not the maker or part of the wedding 🙂
Eureka Tops/Sewing Workshop and self drafted pants
Urban Pant and Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop
Butterick 6138

More Inspiration from July

July saw our largest attendance for a very long time-thanks to everyone who follows us and makes garment sewing and the sharing of it a priority. It wouldn’t be as awesome without all of you!!

August meetings start on Wednesday, Aug. 9 at Lakes Makerie, Thursday, Aug. 10 at Creative Sewing and Saturday, Aug. 12, Sewing Lounge all starting at 10:30 am.

So here is some of what we saw in July (Saturday’s pics have been posted previously).

McCalls 7969
Art Inspired Top-Sewing Workshop
Summer Fit and Flare-McCalls
Tie dye-Stretch & Sew 333, Eureka Top and Valencia Pant-Sewing Workshop
OOP pattern/knit summer dress
Fehr Trade Adventure Travel Pants and Seamwork Willis Shirt in rayon
Corset-sorry no pattern #
Itch to Stitch Santorini after much work 🙂
Alabama Chanin inspired embellishment
Sewing Workshop Now and Zen
McCalls 7635
McCalls 8001
Vogue 1689
Ahead of season or behind? Beautiful either way 🙂
Silhouette Patterns Sonya’s Blouse, modified, also used Sinclair Patterns Thumb Pack
Noah Shirt-Fabricstore Patterns
McCalls 7122
McCalls 7194 and some cute little girl sewing
Let’s hear it for the boys 🙂 Burda 9322