Let’s congratulate the state fair winners that we know of-if you have photos, please send and I will add to post-
Maggie and her Chanel jacketJulia’s artistic woven teeSandra’s Teahouse DressPat’s shacketAnd linen skirtBernie’s jacketBernie’s shirtBrenda’s shirt dressBrenda’s board shorts/swim suitBrenda’s men’s jacketAnd the Sweepstakes Winner, Pam!!!Pam’s other entry 🙂
Send me a photo and name if I’ve missed your winning entry!
Sewing Retreat 1.0
Ever since we built the “barn” I’ve wanted to host a retreat and last week presented a great opportunity. Nine brave sewists packed their bags (yes, they had to bring toilet paper 🙂 and joined me at the farm on Tuesday.
Somebody may have been taking a nap during photo…
The weather was perfect and we sewed with the big doors open until the sun came around and started heating up our space. The evenings were cool so we slept with open windows.
Homemade pizza, sandwiches from the new local shop and dinner at Scarlet Kitchen in Red Wing complemented the goodies and snacks everyone brought to share.
Walks, tai chi, chair massages and, oh, and were we supposed to sew??
Did we ever! It was so quiet with the focused sewing that we had to play background music 🙂
Rated a great success by all involved, watch for the next offering as there will be a 2.0!
As you plan your fall sewing, here are photos from the remaining August meetings of Garment Sewing Group to inspire you-
Ballad Blouse/Love Notions/hemp fabricOhnde Jacket/Sewing WorkshopHelix Top/Sewing WorkshopSurprise showing from Katie in Burda two piece knit outfit-thanks for taking the time, Katie!!Burnside Bibs/Sew House Seven X 2 and Lark Tee/Grainline StudioJutland Pant/Thread Theory/linenVogue 9338 Jacket/linenSplice Top/Sewing WorkshopElodie/Closet Core/rayonNew Look 6597Donny Shirt/Friday Pattern Co. on hanger, Cottage Shirt/Sewing Workshop on Linda, Stylearc Marley Shirt/rose linen on hangerVerdun Woven Tee/Liesl and Co. New Look 1698 skirtSimplicity 8640Vivace/Love NotionsCottage Shirt/Now and Zen/Sewing WorkshopPicasso Pant/Sewing WorkshopVogue 1706Hand dyed during trip to India
Here are the garments and pattern review made by Debbie and Kristin in August:
Debbie’s Garments:
Jalie Vanessa Pants/cotton linen blend McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848 tee/cotton jersey
Summer Blue Pants
Jalie Vanessa Pants
Cotton/linen blend
1. A favorite relaxed pant pattern due to the fit and comfort.
2. I do change the construction techniques. – I use a one piece waistband with no drawstring insertion. I also shorten the width of the band and use 1 and 1/2 inch elastic rather than 2 and1/2 that pattern calls for.
Copied RTW using McCalls 6964 (Butterick 6848)
1. Tees are my summer staple and I am always looking for an added detail. In this case I added contrast cuffs and a side insert – it breaks up the print and adds some interest.
2. I removed 2 and 1/2 inches from front and back side seams starting at hem and going up to nothing 6 inches from armhole cut edge, including seam allowance.
3. I didn’t want black contrast at my face so I added interfaced neck facings instead of neckband.
Jordan Jacket by Serendipity Studio/cotton linen blend
1. Fit adjustments including shortening between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeves, narrow shoulder adjustments and shortened the sleeves. I did not shorten length.
2. The construction techniques work as pattern directs but would do it different next time.
3. When it came time to construct the cuff I did it my way – the pattern does a very unusual placket insertion on sleeve- I felt I could make it easier and better looking. I also do not care for inside upper pocket finish.
4. Overall it is a good jean jacket pattern and if and when I make another I would use this pattern.
Itch to Stitch Lago Tank and Love Notions Laundry Day Dress/rayon jersey knit
1. I made a tee first as my muslin to check out fit and drape. I was satisfied with the results and went on to make the dress with changes.
2. Shortened length one inch and use straight hem.
3. I raised the front neckline one inch.
4. Quick and easy make that could be a summer staple.
Itch to Stitch Lago Tank
Love Notions Laundry Day Tee
Itch to Stitch Lago Tank (pictured 2 above)
1. I had left over fabric from Laundry Day Tee so I thought I would give this free pattern a try.
2. I raised the neckline 1 inch and shortened the length 1 inch.
3. I made the neckband and armhole bands wider than pattern.
4. Tanks are in my wardrobe to be worn under tops or as pj tops. For the little amount of fabric required and the ease in constructing the tank I will keep this pattern close and cut more of them to make good use of my left over knits.
Kristin’s Garments:
Burda 6525/textured cotton
1. Great pattern for leftover narrow pieces-had to selvage this fabric!
2. Lots of seams make for easy fit adjustments at hip. Bias finishes at neck and armhole.
Knit Robe
Butterick 5963/Marcy Tilton poly knit
1. Side tie is what drew me to the pattern. Basic assembly-attaching band at tie point is a bit fiddley but works well. I reinforced with fusible interfacing at front facing/band points.
2. Fabric print attracted me-fabric content should have stopped me 🙂
Butterick 5963/light cotton print
1. Old pattern/still in print. Always wanted to try the tank. Many fine tuning fit adjustments and I still didn’t look like the drawing (!)
2. Had fun making shell tuck edging on bias binding and applying to neck and arm edges.
Elodie Wrap Dress by Closet Core/linen
1. The waistband was the draw on this pattern. Had an inspiration pic I wanted to copy.
2. Followed pattern with very few exceptions but eliminated left tie wrapping all the way around as waistband is close fitting. Attached band at left side seam and love it that way.
3. A straight skirt would be a great variation to this pattern.
Lyric Dress by Love Notions/Rayon
1. Inspiration pic pointed to Chalk & Notch Fringe Dress or Lyric. I chose Lyric because of the set in sleeve and closer bodice fit. Fringe Dress pics always had a back tie or didn’t look like what I was after.
2. Shortened bodice two inches to change the look.
3. Construction went quickly with bias bindings on neck. I chose to let binding show instead of turning under which gave some sweet angles to the ending points. Turning under the center front facing made it easy and neat.
4. Eliminated the front vertical darts as bodice is close fitting. Added to front and back armscye based on previous experience with Love Notions patterns.
5. Skirt has two options-I chose the straight gathered option and used the width of the fabric instead of a more gathered skirt as suggested by pattern.
September 2023 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, September 13, 10:30, Ginny’s in Rochester
Thursday, September 14, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, September 16, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Here are Wednesday/Lakes Makerie pics from Garment Sewing Group. We’re at Creative Sewing/Apple Valley today/Thursday and Sewing Lounge/St. Paul on Saturday! 10:30 am always 🙂
Zero Waste Gather DressPerfect addition-a bow!Tapered Mitchell Trousers with wow! pockets-and a handknit sweater to boot!Liberty of London silk in Curso Top/CashmeretteWedding dresses-self draftedAnd for the flower girl-Baby Holland Dress/Little Lizard KingVogue 9341 for grandmother of the bride modeled by Sue (not the maker or part of the wedding 🙂Eureka Tops/Sewing Workshop and self drafted pantsUrban Pant and Eureka Top/Sewing WorkshopButterick 6138
July saw our largest attendance for a very long time-thanks to everyone who follows us and makes garment sewing and the sharing of it a priority. It wouldn’t be as awesome without all of you!!
August meetings start on Wednesday, Aug. 9 at Lakes Makerie, Thursday, Aug. 10 at Creative Sewing and Saturday, Aug. 12, Sewing Lounge all starting at 10:30 am.
So here is some of what we saw in July (Saturday’s pics have been posted previously).
McCalls 7969Art Inspired Top-Sewing WorkshopSummer Fit and Flare-McCallsTie dye-Stretch & Sew 333, Eureka Top and Valencia Pant-Sewing Workshop OOP pattern/knit summer dressFehr Trade Adventure Travel Pants and Seamwork Willis Shirt in rayonCorset-sorry no pattern #Itch to Stitch Santorini after much work 🙂Alabama Chanin inspired embellishmentSewing Workshop Now and ZenMcCalls 7635McCalls 8001Vogue 1689Ahead of season or behind? Beautiful either way 🙂Silhouette Patterns Sonya’s Blouse, modified, also used Sinclair Patterns Thumb PackNoah Shirt-Fabricstore PatternsMcCalls 7122McCalls 7194 and some cute little girl sewingLet’s hear it for the boys 🙂 Burda 9322
1. This is my TNT pattern for shift dresses. Petite adjustments are included in the pattern which is a timesaver for me.
2. The facing is eliminated – I used serged bias binding and added the flounce to sleeve. I especially like putting in the zipper using Becky’s method-
1. Interface seam allowances on zipper seam.
2. Clean finish seam allowances.
3. Stitch zipper seam 1 to 1 1/2 inches from the top of seam, stop and secure seam.
4. Leave an opening the length of the zipper minus one inch.
5. Continue to sew seam from bottom of zipper opening to bottom of garment seam, backstitching at start of the seam.
6. Insert zipper and stitch about one inch further than zipper opening.
7. You will need to wiggle the zipper pull up between both sides of zipper to close the first time.
8. Ta da! A beautiful zipper insertion without the fussiness at the top of the zipper and facing.
Navy Dot Jacket
Harriet Jacket by Style Arc, Japanese Cotton
1. Fitting adjustments includes petite between shoulders and bust, narrow shoulder adjustment and shortened sleeve length.
2. Optional to line jacket – I lined my jacket with Bemberg Rayon.
3. Typical Style Arc pattern as far as instructions go. I did change order of construction and button placement.
Itch to Stitch Santorini Tank, Linen and Jalie Vanessa Pant
1. I shortened front and back between shoulder and bust and shortened body length at hem by one inch. Due to close fit I needed to go from small to larger from bust to hip but easy to do with pattern instructions.
2. This is a fun pattern. Lots of line drawings for excellent construction details, especially the Burrito method for facing.
3. Not necessary to do button placket but it is a great design feature.
Jalie Vanessa Pants
Another TNT pattern. I have made construction changes – the fly is eliminated and I use a one piece waistband – I am now able to sew them up in just a couple of hours.
Love Notions Melody Dolman Blouse, Hugo Boss Cotton Elastic
I made this pattern last year and it has become a favorite.
Kristin’s Garments:
Jalie Melanie #3889, Japanese cottons
1. Pattern is very similar to a kimono-body pieces are perfect rectangles. By butting pieces to each other, cutting is streamlined and waste is minimal.
2. Because the seams are 3/8” I serged most of them. Underarm sleeve omits clipping to corner but it is necessary-I stitched it with straight machine first, clipped and then serged.
3. Good, basic kimono pattern and I love the fish-but are they right side up or upside down??
Klimt Summer Dress
Burda 6221, cotton knit
1. The pattern is for woven but I wanted to give it a try in a knit first. Bust dart and no interruption of my art work 🙂
2. Flounce is supposed to be single layer, which I tried first but the white “wrong” side of the fabric was too stark so flounce is doubled and stiffer than the single but looks better.
3. Knit fabric doesn’t support the flounce very well, if I make it again in a knit I will cut the facing from woven fabric-I don’t think a stiffer interfacing will do the trick.
Butterick 5456 (still available on simplicity.com website), cotton knit
1. Loved the color and print of the fabric. Have made the pattern before but wanted sleeveless this time. Also, pattern calls for double layered bodice and that got too heavy last time I made it.
2. Love the cut out in back. Finished edges with a 1” strip and sewed together instead of ties.
3. Messed around with fit and all. Will find a pattern closer to what I want next time.
4. Tried garment as a maxi as I had plenty of fabric but short was more fun.
August 2023 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, August 9, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, August 10, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, August 12, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
July’s meetings started with a bang at Ginny’s-29 people for a Saturday meeting was AWESOME!! And then Ginny gave everybody 20% off!
Wednesday we meet at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul at 10:30.
Thursday meeting is at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley at 10:30 with a fabric swap.
Here are some highlights from Saturday:
Classic Linda with Stylearc Archie shirt and a very happy Ginny in the background 🙂The Donny Shirt from Friday Pattern Co.Tropical Shirt -Made By Me patternsMcCall’s 8409Kinfolk Dress by Jennifer Lauren HandmadeButterick 4684 with pintucks and specialty stitchesBurda 6041Butterick 6569Sewing Workshop Florence ShirtCharlie Shirt by Fabricstore.comPatterns for Pirates Grandpa SweaterGalicia Shirt from Itch to StitchButterick 6768All the way from Texas in a New Look dressMetra Blazer from Love Notions
First off, Saturday, July 8th, is our July Garment Sewing Group meeting at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester. If you’d like to carpool please email or text Kristin @ materialgirlsewing@gmail.com/952.201.3863
Secondly, Wednesday, July 12th, we are at the Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.
Here’s the change: Thursday, July 13, we will meet at Creative Sewing, 14861 Granada Av., Apple Valley. Fabric swap will continue!
We’ve had a long and wonderful run at First Sewing but feel it’s time for a change-just when you thought you knew the schedule!!
Creative Sewing has agreed to let us rent their classroom space on Thursdays for Garment Sewing Group and Sew Social. We will also teach serger classes there on Thursdays.
We tried to stay a bit more central but churches didn’t seem a good fit as we’d have to bring more supplies. Most stores have small classrooms (JoAnn/Edina converted theirs into an order processing center). On the other hand, it is more south and we always had new people come to the SR Harris meeting-we assume it was a location thing?
The store is just off Cedar and 42. We hope you’ll give it a try if Thursday is your favorite meeting to attend.
First, highlights from Wednesday’s meeting at Lakes Makerie-
Update Your Day by Cutting Line DesignsVogue 9010Free Range Pants by Sew House Seven in linenNew Look 6560 top and self drafted skirtMulti-sleeve Midi Dress by The Assembly LineHand worked collar
Garment Sewing Group
June 2023
Debbie’s Garments:
Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs in Brussels washer linen blend
1. This is a great pattern in that it offers many choices for pockets, bibs and length. Also the construction directions are clear, easy to understand and the illustrations are helpful. Construction goes quickly up until the straps. At this point I took my time and followed directions carefully but also doing my own thing to eliminate some steps I felt were not needed or I had a better way.
2. I shortened the length between knee and hip one inch, the front pocket length one inch, hem length one inch and the crotch length/depth one inch.
3. I did interface the the top of the bib and the side seam zipper areas . I would also interface the pocket facing – the pattern directions do not include interfacing.
4. The directions do tell you to remark notches after finishing raw edges and it gives you 2 methods to do the straps. I found this to be very helpful.
5. I did not topstitch the back waistband. Attaching the belt loops and stitching in the ditch secured the facing just fine.
Jalie Dolman Tee in viscose ponte (picture above with bibs)
1. This is one of my TNT patterns. This time I added a neckband rather than turn under binding and straightened the hem on front and back.
Navy Joggers
Itch to Stitch Nusle Joggers in viscose rayon
1. Shortened length of pants a total of 4 inches between hip and knee and knee and hem.
2. I made the straight leg and no cuffs.
3. The pattern goes together quickly due to excellent directions. I enjoy everything about the Itch to Stitch pattern company.
Somerset Maven Tee in cotton spandexinterlock (picture above)
1. Another TNT pattern for me.
2. I did narrow the neckline pattern piece by taking in 1/8 inch tucks on front and back necklines.
3. I chose 3/4 sleeves this time around.
Kristin’s Garments
Summer Bibs
Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven, Zipper version
1. My linen was very linen-y (a bit unstable, very pressable) so I interfaced wherever they suggested and added interfacing to front pocket facing. Probably should have done the same for back pockets.
2. Cutting out was a process but all part of the pattern. Fun to assemble if a little time consuming. Topstitching was all good. Nice to have Debbie sewing ahead of me so I could ask questions.
3. I managed to do the tube method for turning the straps but used fold method for the ties-faster and easier :))
4. Fit was pretty spot on. They do a good crotch for my body. Looking forward to lots of summer wear!
Lenox Tee by Love Notions, square neck in cotton interlock (in photo above with bibs)
1. Great assembly directions for a square neck. Love the princess seams.
2. The band for the horizontal strip had to be stretched but the longer “around the neck” part did not. I would change that next time and make the long band shorter to bring it in around the neck.
Nona Top by Fibre Mood in cotton voile
1. Fun assembly-a bit like a puzzle but understandable. Not something I’d wear every day but very summery and light.
2. Zipper starts from waist instead of underarm. Well drafted.
Burda 6497 View A in dark blue chambray
1. Added length but kept waist level to pattern. Sized up for hips.
2. Fussy cut the skirt and was able to use less fabric than called for.
3. Fun make, fabric was great to work with.
4. Raised the vee by 3/4” by extending the center seam when I sewed it-didn’t change pattern piece. Vee instructions different than usual but very effective.
5. Omitted the side zip but may go back and put one in.
We are at Lakes Makerie, Wednesday, June 14-last chance for the June meetings-come and see great sewing AND great fabric!!
Here are photos from Sewing Lounge and First Sewing meetings:
Grainline Studio Austin Dress-pattern available at Sewing LoungeOOP Jean jacket variationVogue 1773 in silk OOP pattern/modern day inspirationBog Coat (Ella Ramsey) in Kantha fabricWren Blouse by Chalk and NotchTrio Top by Sewing WorkshopWiksten Top (discontinued) used to copy Nature Shirt by Thread + SproutVogue 9112 Marcy TiltonVogue 1246 in two different fabricsEureka Top/Sewing Workshop used to copy Pinterest inspirationDetail of previous pic On hanger-Vogue 1614/wearing Simplicity 9328Chalk and Notch Fringe DressVogue 1212 Coat in vinyl
Material Girl Sewing 