First off, Saturday, July 8th, is our July Garment Sewing Group meeting at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester. If you’d like to carpool please email or text Kristin @ materialgirlsewing@gmail.com/952.201.3863
Secondly, Wednesday, July 12th, we are at the Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.
Here’s the change: Thursday, July 13, we will meet at Creative Sewing, 14861 Granada Av., Apple Valley. Fabric swap will continue!
We’ve had a long and wonderful run at First Sewing but feel it’s time for a change-just when you thought you knew the schedule!!
Creative Sewing has agreed to let us rent their classroom space on Thursdays for Garment Sewing Group and Sew Social. We will also teach serger classes there on Thursdays.
We tried to stay a bit more central but churches didn’t seem a good fit as we’d have to bring more supplies. Most stores have small classrooms (JoAnn/Edina converted theirs into an order processing center). On the other hand, it is more south and we always had new people come to the SR Harris meeting-we assume it was a location thing?
The store is just off Cedar and 42. We hope you’ll give it a try if Thursday is your favorite meeting to attend.
First, highlights from Wednesday’s meeting at Lakes Makerie-
Update Your Day by Cutting Line DesignsVogue 9010Free Range Pants by Sew House Seven in linenNew Look 6560 top and self drafted skirtMulti-sleeve Midi Dress by The Assembly LineHand worked collar
Garment Sewing Group
June 2023
Debbie’s Garments:
Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs in Brussels washer linen blend
1. This is a great pattern in that it offers many choices for pockets, bibs and length. Also the construction directions are clear, easy to understand and the illustrations are helpful. Construction goes quickly up until the straps. At this point I took my time and followed directions carefully but also doing my own thing to eliminate some steps I felt were not needed or I had a better way.
2. I shortened the length between knee and hip one inch, the front pocket length one inch, hem length one inch and the crotch length/depth one inch.
3. I did interface the the top of the bib and the side seam zipper areas . I would also interface the pocket facing – the pattern directions do not include interfacing.
4. The directions do tell you to remark notches after finishing raw edges and it gives you 2 methods to do the straps. I found this to be very helpful.
5. I did not topstitch the back waistband. Attaching the belt loops and stitching in the ditch secured the facing just fine.
Jalie Dolman Tee in viscose ponte (picture above with bibs)
1. This is one of my TNT patterns. This time I added a neckband rather than turn under binding and straightened the hem on front and back.
Navy Joggers
Itch to Stitch Nusle Joggers in viscose rayon
1. Shortened length of pants a total of 4 inches between hip and knee and knee and hem.
2. I made the straight leg and no cuffs.
3. The pattern goes together quickly due to excellent directions. I enjoy everything about the Itch to Stitch pattern company.
Somerset Maven Tee in cotton spandexinterlock (picture above)
1. Another TNT pattern for me.
2. I did narrow the neckline pattern piece by taking in 1/8 inch tucks on front and back necklines.
3. I chose 3/4 sleeves this time around.
Kristin’s Garments
Summer Bibs
Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven, Zipper version
1. My linen was very linen-y (a bit unstable, very pressable) so I interfaced wherever they suggested and added interfacing to front pocket facing. Probably should have done the same for back pockets.
2. Cutting out was a process but all part of the pattern. Fun to assemble if a little time consuming. Topstitching was all good. Nice to have Debbie sewing ahead of me so I could ask questions.
3. I managed to do the tube method for turning the straps but used fold method for the ties-faster and easier :))
4. Fit was pretty spot on. They do a good crotch for my body. Looking forward to lots of summer wear!
Lenox Tee by Love Notions, square neck in cotton interlock (in photo above with bibs)
1. Great assembly directions for a square neck. Love the princess seams.
2. The band for the horizontal strip had to be stretched but the longer “around the neck” part did not. I would change that next time and make the long band shorter to bring it in around the neck.
Nona Top by Fibre Mood in cotton voile
1. Fun assembly-a bit like a puzzle but understandable. Not something I’d wear every day but very summery and light.
2. Zipper starts from waist instead of underarm. Well drafted.
Burda 6497 View A in dark blue chambray
1. Added length but kept waist level to pattern. Sized up for hips.
2. Fussy cut the skirt and was able to use less fabric than called for.
3. Fun make, fabric was great to work with.
4. Raised the vee by 3/4” by extending the center seam when I sewed it-didn’t change pattern piece. Vee instructions different than usual but very effective.
5. Omitted the side zip but may go back and put one in.
We are at Lakes Makerie, Wednesday, June 14-last chance for the June meetings-come and see great sewing AND great fabric!!
Here are photos from Sewing Lounge and First Sewing meetings:
Grainline Studio Austin Dress-pattern available at Sewing LoungeOOP Jean jacket variationVogue 1773 in silk OOP pattern/modern day inspirationBog Coat (Ella Ramsey) in Kantha fabricWren Blouse by Chalk and NotchTrio Top by Sewing WorkshopWiksten Top (discontinued) used to copy Nature Shirt by Thread + SproutVogue 9112 Marcy TiltonVogue 1246 in two different fabricsEureka Top/Sewing Workshop used to copy Pinterest inspirationDetail of previous pic On hanger-Vogue 1614/wearing Simplicity 9328Chalk and Notch Fringe DressVogue 1212 Coat in vinyl
A few photos from the Saturday meeting at Quilter’s Haven-
Silhouette Patterns #575 hacked into a biking shirtSummer dress-McCalls 5668 Simplicity 8061
And Debbie and Kristin’s garments-
Debbie’s Garments:
Shirt Dress
Simplicity 8014, View D, chambray
1. The only fitting adjustment needed was narrow shoulder. Unfortunately I cut the dress length too short – need to wear it with leggings.
2. I added a lining to the back yoke and used the burrito method to construct.
3. This was a fun make. The pattern offers several choices for length, sleeves and bodice. The Chambray fabric was easy to work with.
Itch to Stitch Medellin Top, cotton interlock and Love Notions Duet Trousers, stretch denim
1. IS patterns work well for me generally. I did not do any petite adjustments. Since I eliminated the bottom band I increased the body length pattern pieces by one inch.
2. The directions call for clear elastic for the shirring on side. I found that the gather stitches alone worked well so I did not use the elastic.
3. The pattern instructions are clear and concise and the fabric was great to work with.
Love Notions Duet Trousers, Stretch Denim
1. This is my second try at this pattern. The fabric choice makes a difference in sizing. The stretch denim I used was poor quality and shrunk 4 inches when I washed it. Live and Learn!
2. I eliminated the front pockets due to lack of fabric. I used the curvy waistband pattern piece instead of the straight piece.
3. The pattern can be used for stretch woven and stable knits.
4. I am not thrilled with this make. I will try a stable knit next time and then move on.
Itch to Stitch Galicia Top, cotton poplinButton back
1. I petited the pattern between shoulder and bust and shortened the length by 2 inches.
2. The pattern has great construction techniques. There is an option for vertical darts which I chose to do. I also shortened the width of the cuff.
3. The pattern is a little out of my comfort zone but I am glad I gave it a try. I think it would be a fun special occasion top.
Kristin’s Garments
Burda 6114 Jacket, fleece and scuba knit and Ravinia Skirt, Love Notions in cotton interlock (version 1)
Jacket, Burda 6114
1. Made size 16/18 at hip. Sizing seemed great.
2. Folded 3/4” out of collar lengthwise. Collar is taller in front, probably would change that in future jackets as it just stands up and doesn’t seem to want to lay in a “collarly” fashion. Didn’t interface.
3. Pockets according to pattern were just a passing thought-instead cut 6×9” rectangles and 3 layers so that anywhere the pocket showed would be my knit print. Pockets went from seam to seam and were topstitched through outer fabric across the top. Very happy with them.
4. Changed up zipper installation-folded collar and hem over zip, stitched and turned right side out. Very important (I think): handbasted from pocket top up and down to ensure all meeting points were happy.
5. Left sleeve hems very deep (sleeves were 2”+ too long) so white wrong side of scuba doesn’t show.
1. Oh, my, how could I have been so blind!! I had traveled down the Instagram/email rabbit hole and saw this pattern which matched a picture I had cut out of a catalog numerous times!! How could I have missed the photos of the test garments?
2. But the skirt was already cut out so sew it I must. It isn’t so bad-I knew it was an a-line skirt and that the waist band had negative ease (5-7”) but I didn’t understand that the waist edge of the skirt also had the same negative ease. I was hoping for a few tucks and pleats as the waistband was stretched to meet the skirt. Nope-I had to stretch the skirt to fit the waistband that I cut out two sizes larger to accommodate the fact that my waist was larger than the pattern measurements (not a problem if the skirt is gathered into the negative ease waistband!)
3. The gathered pocket went in well and to be fair there are some funny puckers in my inspiration picture where gathers go all the way to waist.
4. I added 4” to the calf length of the skirt. A narrow elastic is applied to the top waistband seam for extra security.
5. If I make this again, I will get rid of the A-line and add fabric at waist so it has gathers all around 🙂
6. So I went home Wednesday night and made another skirt, this time using the full 60” width of the fabric as my skirt and applying the pockets and gathering the 60” to the negative ease waistband. Now that’s what I had in mind!!
Ravinia Skirt, Version 1-hem width 100” plus Version 2 (being worn)-gathers at waist and 60” hem widthPleat Detail Dress and Top/Maker’s Atelier, cotton lawn
1. Made size medium to pattern except for a few construction changes.
2. Seam allowances are 3/8” which makes it a little trickier to serge seam allowances and sew seams but I wanted a nice flat press.
3. Pattern instructions assume you will do things and doesn’t tell you to-understitching facing, finishing facing edges, pleats should have been basted to make pressing easier, etc.
4. There’s a tiny slit in sleeve opening (cuff edge) that may be to allow for more ease but it’s pretty small and not shown on pattern.
Vogue 8616 (OOP) in activewear fleeceBurda 6367 in activewear fleece
1. Both are patterns I’ve made before. The Vogue pattern was quite recent-this time I cut off the folded facing and banded the whole opening. Much better and less fussy than the folded facing.
2. The Burda pattern always feels like home to me-shoulders are a bit dropped but not too much. The whole thing feels like a cozy sweatshirt that wears a bit more like a long sleeve tee.
Wool Sweater
Karine Jalie #4242 in wool knit
1. Had to try this pattern again in something a bit more basic than the other patch work one. Still like it. No changes. Goes together well.
June Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, June 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, June 10, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, June 14, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Lois Dress from Tessuti FabricsWith a granddaughter on both teams, who does one cheer for? BOTH!Simplicity 8177 long vestNicks Dress and Blouse by Closet CoreBack view of NicksTea House Dress by Sew House SevenRemy Top by Sew House Seven and Valencia Pant by Sewing WorkshopCottage Shirt by Sewing Workshop and Bob Pant from StyleArcNo-Zip Skirt by Blue Dot PatternsHighly recommended reading-for those interested 🙂
Wednesday was our spring meeting at Ginny’s in Rochester-
Vogue 1733 (Tilton tee that we know and love-some of us anyway 🙂Vogue 1610 in Ginny’s waffle knit and textured silk bandPapercut Stacker JacketMcCalls 5890 OOP but readily available onlineCutting Line Designs Simplify Your Life-shoulder button detailPaper pieced Liberty of London quilt from duckadilly.comButterick 5948 under Simplicity 8546 shirtPattern TBDThe popular Vogue 1733 tee with Jalie Eleonore Pant with pockets!
This is the Lakes Makerie owner’s daughter in Burnside Bibs from Sew House Seven. Several of us bit hard and bought the pattern (I have the fabric in my stash-still some in the store when we were there. We left a few patterns at the store for you to buy or it is now on sale and they have some fun free extensions for the pattern. Hmmm…might have to get busy 🙂
Sew House Seven Burnside BibsMetra Blazer/Love Notions in knitSelf drafted pattern using scraps#2 same as aboveQuinn Pant/Merchant & MillsFun back detail on Quinn Pant/Merchant & MillsMini Marcel/Chalk and NotchSimplicity 1318Ashton/Helen’s ClosetVogue 1277/multiple fabrics and stitchingMcCalls 7061OOP KwikSew with self drafted cuffHelen’s Closet Moss JacketFringe Dress/Chalk and Notch (there’s a mini version also)Trio Shirt/Sewing Workshop and Burda 7400 pantGreat warm weather top/can’t remember pattern #Stanton Tee/CashmeretteBlanca Flight Suit/Closet CoreIn case you need a new tool! Rave reviews!
Here are the garments that Debbie and I showed at the April meeting. There will be one more post with more of your garments.
May Meetings are two weeks away-can’t wait!
Wednesday, May 10, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Thursday, May 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, May 13, 10:30, Quilter’s Haven, Rosemount
Debbie’s Garments:
Wrap Tee with Peplum-Burda 6443, View A-Italian Viscose with Spandex
1. This pattern was in my stash – I like wraps and I like peplums so I thought I would give it a try.
2. It is a petite pattern so no length adjustments needed. I went up a size because I didn’t want too much negative ease. Also the necklines is too low .
3. I have other wrap tee patterns to try so I will give this one up.
1. I did make a muslin and worked hard to get a good fit. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, shortened front, back and sleeve between bust and shoulder, cut width of collar and narrowed sleeve from elbow to hem.
2. I used light weight shoulder pads-the pattern does call for them.
3. Sewing with the leather was not a problem. My only struggle was where to use it on the collar-inside or out? Fabric matching was a challenge. The uneven plaid caused me to eat a lot of chocolate.
4. I would not use this pattern again but I really like the cut of the lining so I will keep it in my stash.
KwikSew 4069
Brick Jeans-Jalie Eleonore #3461-stretch denim and Deep Turquoise Turtleneck–KwikSew 4069
1. Eleonore is a TNT pattern for me and the fabric feels great and a pleasure to sew.
1. Kwiksew 4069 is another TNT pattern. I added a cuff to the 3/4 length sleeves.
Kristin’s Garments:
Classic Slender Pant (worn with Butterick 6491 jacket and Vogue 9244 hack top)
Burda 7062
Gray travel fabric (polyester)
1. Added several inches-probably need a few more.
2. Sewed pants and then cut them down one size smaller. Not sure if that’s due to stretchy fabric?
3. Because the fabric is stretchy I omitted facing and zipper and serged 1”elastic to right side or waist, turned to wrong side wrapping seam allowance and topstitched down.
4. Slit has nice deep hem.
5. As usual, Burda makes a great fitting pant.
Double Wrap Top (worn with Vogue 1648 jacket)
Burda 5900
Version 1-Cotton knit, Version 2-poly knit
1. Basically you make 2 one shoulder tops and wear one over the other.
2. Version 1 has an interfaced deep folded facing. I chose to topstitch to tidy it up. The fold stretched out and the facing was tight.
3. Version 2-the facing has been trimmed off and a 1.75” band applied to “neck” edge. I like this version a lot better and could see sewing the side seams all at once to keep the shirt together. The Version 2 knit is also lighter and a better choice for the pattern.
Barry Pants/StyleArc Patterns
No stretch woven bottom weight twill or duck
1. Needed a pant to match the jacket-not quite sure why I chose something so stiff… but they still worked.
2. Straight of grain line is interesting after pants are sewn together.
Frill Neck Top
Burda 6146
Rayon
1. Straightforward blouse with bust darts and facings. Frill at neck is what drew me to pattern.
2. Frill is to pattern; hook and eye replaced ties.
3. Sleeves and cuffs were too large so cut down lower half of sleeve and omitted gathered cuff replacing with elastic and casing.