Spring sewing can be an antidote to the cold and wind (so can wine and a good movie!) See below what one mother daughter team accomplished over spring break-
We’re sewing for Garment Sewing Group which is coming up!
Wednesday, April 12 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, April 13 at First Sewing (and Fabric Swap)
Saturday, April 15 at Lakes Makerie
Hope you can make it! And Happy Easter!!
Here’s what Brenda and her daughter did during break-
She’s 5’10 with curves and chose the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans patternJust a couple muslins and they completed 3 pair-couldn’t wait to get back to campus to show off her handy work!Mom did zipper fly construction-rivets were the biggest headache. Daughter did cut out, construction and multiple yards of topstitching.Fun part was choosing orphan scraps for pocket bags and inside waistbandsAnd the stitch design on back pockets
Pretty awesome-great work!! Thanks for sharing-
Here’s a link to the Dawn jean pattern and the description:
Classic high-waisted rigid jean pattern set. Includes four cuts and multiple lengths for tall, regular, and cropped. Pattern features a high rise to sit on the natural waist, button fly, close fit through the waist and hips, and classic jeans details.
View A is a tapered-leg jean. View B is a straight leg jean. View C is a wide leg jean. View D is a jean short.
Inspired by our hunt to find the perfect pair of vintage jeans this pattern will fulfill all of your vintage jean dreams!
It certainly was a week of snow challenges but we came through it with lots of fun meetings and inspiration!
Here’s some of what we saw on Saturday-
Butterick 6596 in boiled woolJalie 2682 in activewear knit from Sewing LoungeButterick 6533 in textured knitStylearc Ada in stripe knit/Vogue 9275 in gray knitMelrose Top from Itch to Stitch
Garment Sewing Group-March 2023
Debbie’s Garments:
Rosy Textured Zip Peplum Jacket/Burda Style 6334, View B/Cotton Dolman Tee/Jalie 3352/Cotton Spandex Khaki Trousers/Love Notions Duet Trousers/Cotton blend bottom weight twill with a little stretch
Rosy Textured Zip Peplum Jacket
1. This is my second make from this pattern. It is a favorite.
2. The jacket is unlined but I added lining to the sleeves. It is difficult to find just the right zipper so I used a contrast and did some topstitching to match zipper tape.
3. I am not fond of the pattern construction order so I go about it my way-complete facings, and collar before side seams and sleeves.
Dolman Tee/Jalie 3352/Cotton Spandex
1. When I came across this knit I knew it would go with my jacket. However I had barely a yard of fabric so I pulled out my TNT go-to-pattern-when-there-is-a-fabric-shortage. It works almost every time!
Khaki Trousers/Love Notions Duet Trousers/Cotton blend bottom weight twill with a little stretch
1. This muslin was a lot of work but it might become a go to pattern for woven pants.
2. I eliminated the pockets – not necessary in a muslin but it is a great feature in this pattern.
3. I added one inch to front and back rise since the pattern is designed to sit below waist.
4. I shortened the pant length by 2 inches. I added a second dart at back and increased center back seam by 1/2 inch to lessen gapping.
5. The pattern offers a pattern piece for a curvy or straight waistband. The front waist is lower than the back . It also has a wide or straight option.
6. I added the split hem at pants bottom – a favorite of mine.
7. Overall a good pattern that I will try again.
Coral Print Blouse/Butterick 6856/Rayon Lawn from Art Gallery
1. I used view A with lots of fit adjustments – Shortened front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust. I shortened the length by 2 inches on front and back but only one inch on sleeve. The bust dart needed to be lowered and I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
2. I just barely had enough fabric so I used a contrast for placket facing and cut the cuff width in half.
3. The pattern has great fit instructions and options such as vertical darts versus tuck at back yoke. It has a tower placket but I did a continuous placket due to lack of fabric and wanting a less tailored look.
4. There is too much slip stitching in this pattern. There is a double yoke but no info on doing a burrito roll. I stitched the rs of facing to ws of blouse front for a clean finish on inside and not having to worry about securing the facing.
1. My goal was a soft, warm, throw-on jacket and I came pretty close!
2. The fabric has a napped side and for interest I alternated wrong side with right side on each piece. This was an interesting exercise in cutting out pieces-hint: not only must you layer fabric right side to wrong side (typically it is rs to rs or ws to ws) but you must also alternate actual pattern pieces right side up and up side down. So the upper bodice pattern piece will be face up and the lower bodice paper will be face down. Brain gymnastics!!
3. I added an interior zipper pocket.
4. My February version was too big through shoulder/bust/sleeve so I cut it down to a 14 (one size smaller) and that worked very well.
5. Fabric was too thick for machine buttonholes.
Vests
Hot Patterns Fast & Fabulous Foursquare T’s/Double sided wool knit (Vee neck)
Hot Patterns Fast & Fabulous Foursquare T’s/Double sided wool knit Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop/Rib knit wool/fleece
1. Eureka has a sloped shoulder line and the underarm curves out to give some shaping. The Hot Patterns vest has a square shoulder and straight underarm to side seam.
2. Neck and hems simply turned under on Eureka crew. Center seam makes vee a snap on Hot Patterns vest.
Helmi Trench Blouse by Named Narrow Legged Trousers/Mitchell Trousers by Closet Core/Mystery fabric
Shirt from months ago: Helmi Trench Blouse by Named-Added tucks and shortened
Narrow Legged Trousers/Mitchell Trousers by Closet Core/Mystery fabric
1. Loved these in wide leg version so had to try narrow leg. Added 1.5”-should have added a bit more to hit shoe.
2. Be sure to mark pleat marking on all pieces.
3. Fabric was linen like with a backing so kind of wonky to work with but I knew that going in.
4. Trouser facings, pleat, pocket and fly zip make a bit of extra work but worth it.
Last chance for March Garment Sewing Group today at Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30 am.
Here are photos from our meeting on Thursday at First Sewing-
Butterick 6802 in linen minus 10” in length and longer sleevesAll the dots matched along the pleat!!Now Jacket as modified in Sewing Workshop Club-pinwale cord, E-tee and Helix pant-all Sewing Workshop patternsJapanese pattern in cable knitAdaptation of Tremont JacketBurda 6990I Spy quilt/Happy grandma 🙂Simplicity 9275 in knitKatherine Tilton blouse in lightweight woolBurda 6463 as vest in woolVogue 1899Liesl & Co Verdun Woven T-shirt
Yesterday was our first March meeting-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, March 9 and at Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. Here’s what we saw at Lakes-
Stacker Jacket by Papercut Patterns in corduroyStacker Jacket, back viewNew Look 6659 in denimSew House Seven Albert Street Skirt in stretch twill available at LakesVersatile Top and Pants from Tauko #5Soho Coat from Sewing Workshop in woolChateau Coat from Sewing Workshop in double sided woolRemy Top from Sew House Seven with free sleeve extensionLatest and greatest men’s shirt!Cuff detailCollar detailBeautiful handwork
Vests based on Tremont Jacket from Sewing WorkshopVintage Shirt with tower placketTalvikki Sweater/Named in double sided fleeceAttitude Pullover/Peekaboo PatternsNeighborhood Hoodie/Liesl & Co. and Girl’s Dress/McCalls 6915Carole’s sketches are always fun to see!Self drafted sari skirtOpal Coat/Paprika Patterns and Pants/KwikSew 3115Logan Shacket/StyleArc in corduroyGallery Tunic/Liesl & CoHayward Tunic/StyleArcVest/Simplicity 1506Vest/Butterick 6328 and Dress/New Look6428-all the way from Texas!A Way With Stripes/Simplicity 8556Clare Coat/Closet CoreElle Shirt With Mixit Top/Sewing Workshopin woolIkina Jacket 2/Sewing WorkshopWhat to do with a remnant of silk? Shoulder seams and buttons!
What will you be sewing for March-that in between, “I don’t really want to sew more wool but it’s still COLD” month!!
1. Cut size small and petited between shoulders and bust but not length.
2. Stabilized the hems with Steam a Seam and then topstitched.
3. Used a serged bias finish for armholes.
4. This vest requires a lot of fabric due to the neck cowl but is worth it.
5. The fabric requires a great amount of steaming, press and pounding but again well worth it.
Vogue 1541/Cotton shirting
1. This is my second make from this pattern. I like her construction techniques but find the sleeves very narrow.
2. I petited between the shoulder and bust and shortened the front placket 7” and cut it on the bias.
3. I also straightened the outside collar edges instead of using the curve shape.
4. Her collar instructions are a little tricky so I used my own method. It’s a fun make but time to move onto another pattern for a woven tunic.
NavyTravelPants/Jalie Vanessa #3676/Poly travel fabric-hard to see in photo 🙂
1. This is TNT pattern for me and thought it would work for a staple travel pant, especially on a plane.
2. Polyester is never my first choice but in this case it worked well for my needs.
3. I converted the waistband to one piece and eliminated the faux fly zipper.
4. A quick make and a versatile pattern.
McCalls 7360, View A/Japanese cotton gauze
1. I did not need to petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten the sleeve length by one inch.
2. The pattern has a 2 piece sleeve which I like but I would do a continuous or tower placket next time.
3. I used a burrito roll for the yoke and applied placket and cuffs ws to rs.
4. I will use this pattern again – other than out dated construction techniques it checks a lot of boxes.
Simplicity 7194, View A/Organic cotton knit and ribbing
1. Another TNT pattern that I often hack to meet my needs or my fabric needs- in this case too much stretch!
2. I changed the cowl to a T neck by removing width and length from pattern piece. If I did it again I would make the T neck out of ribbing but I didn’t have enough ribbing after making bottom band and cuffs from ribbing.
3. I wanted more of a boxy fit so I straightened the side seams from bust to hem.
Kristin’s Garments:
Burda 5941/Assorted corduroys and wovens
1. Made a size 16 for bodice, size 18 at hips.
2. One piece collar went in very easily with facings.
3. Sleeves went in flat very well.
4. Bust dart built in with the two horizontal seams. Makes pocket application a bit awkward.
5. Front placket is part of front facing-worked well.
6. Took sleeves and side seam at bust in 1/2” and that improved the fit by a lot.
T:201 Elastic Tie Sweater/The Assembly Line/Pendleton wool
1. Loved working with the wool! Fit turned out to be wonderful-size medium.
2. Elbow dart in sleeve; sleeve facing at hem.
3. Learned how to use eyelet stitch but it was a bit small for the tie.
4. Made a narrow hem-would add to length next time.
5. Made elastic cording from cotton knit-jersey rolls to right side (wrong side shows) on crossgrain and to wrong side (right side shows) on straight of grain.
T:201 Elastic Tie Sweater/The Assembly Line/Cotton waffle knit
1. Omitted neck facing and holes for ties.
2. Took dart out of sleeve:
1. Draw a line from hem to tip of dart, parallel to grainline.
2. Fold dart closed.
3. Draw straight line from armscye (close to side seam) to each side of newly opened area.
4. Fold this newly drawn “dart” closed.
5. True up the hem.
3. Finished the neck edge and hems with knit strips and sewed all seams with knit strips.
4. Took in sleeves and side seams by 1/2” to down size from woven pattern.
OOPVogue 8616/Activewear knits
1. Split neck version-shaped front and back center seams. Vee seemed to open too high for comfort so fiddled with that.
2. Pattern calls for a neck zipper but not necessary.
OOP Vogue 8616/Activewear knits
3. Wrap version-shoulder seams continue up to folded over neck edge. Stitched down the fold to keep things neat.
Here are pics from yesterday-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, and then at Sewing Lounge on Saturday. Great sewing!!
Madrid Top/Sewing Workshop adapted to knits and no front closure-knit from Sewing LoungeSew House Seven in yummy bamboo fleece from Sewing LoungeArt Gallery knits inButterick 6633Renee Pant/Jalie in preteen size (long legs 🙂Roxy from Stylearc in wool from Sewing LoungeMarley Shirt/StylearcVogue 9347 Blouse adapted to jacketVintage men’s shirt pattern in double fleeceBeautiful wool/silk self drafted to use every thread 🙂Eureka/Sewing Workshop in soft knit for the perfect vestKwikSew 2896-made for Valentine’s Day-jacketAnything But Ordinary/Cutting Line Designs and lined!Jarrah Top/Megan Nielsen in textured knit from Quilter’s HavenThe other Jarrah Top in waffle knit from Quilter’s HavenEbony Tunic/Closet Core-gray knit from Quilter’s Haven
I hope you are in the sunshine somewhere-it’s beautiful!! Speaking of beautiful-here are the remaining sew and tell pics. Another great month of sewing!
Lisette 6296Simplicity 9291 Gertie patternShucks, I didn’t write down the wrap sweater pattern! Can anyone help me out?Sapporo Coat/now Nova Coat from Papercut PatternsVogue 1784OOP coat patternHistorically correct doll bodiceDaughter/mother duo in The Blouse by Avid Seamstress (daughter) and Estelle Ponte Jacket by Stylearc (mother)Madden Skirt by Tessuti PatternsTremont Jacket/Vest by The Sewing Workshop X 2Nancy’s Blouse by Silhouette Patterns in rayon batikMcCalls 7874 from two old sweatshirts!Vogue 8854Wool Coat-Logan Shacket by StylearcCopied ready-to-wear/still making modifications
Another wonderful week of meetings despite weather challenges! It is such a pleasure to get together with like minded people and talk about sewing. And afterwards at lunch, too!
Check out the article in Minneapolis/St. Paul Magazine about all the wonderful fabric store options in the metro area! Old news for us but about time everyone else hears about it 🙂
Garment Sewing Group-January 2023
Debbie’s Garments:
Simplicity 9106, cotton flannel
1. Standard petite adjustments were made as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment and overall garment length by 1 inch.
2. The back hem was made even to the front so that the wrong side of the floral print would not be visible.
3. Instead of slip stitching the inside collar, I added a bias strip to cover neck edge.
4. I basted a contrast facing to right front then had my serger cut at basting stitch line. Then the the facing was wrapped around serger stitch to have contrast from facing show and again not have wrong side of navy print visible. The trim was stitched in the ditch to secure.
5. Contrast cuffs were added to sleeves.
Green Plaid Shirt
Helga Shirt by Tessuti Fabrics, View B (Helga is OOP-new version is Harlow) in textured cotton
1. Determined size then did fitting adjustments, made a muslin and then started over. Needed to go down two sizes. – it is very oversized.
2. Generally the pattern has very good construction techniques but it does go from 3/8” to 1/4” seam allowances so you must pay attention. Also there is a lot of hand basting that could be replaced by serging an edge and press under.
3. This was a fun but challenging make. Too many pattern fit adjustments were needed and that affected the neck opening and slide slits a bit. Also, plaid fabric probably wasn’t the best choice when matching seams.
Tabitha Tee by Love Notions in cotton knits
1. This a TNT pattern, especially when using up leftovers.
2. For this make I sewed the rst of neckband to wrong side of tee and then topstitched the band at neck edge.
Kristin’s Garments:
Assembly Line Shirt Dress in charcoal tencelNo safety pins!!
1. Features: bust and bodice back darts, skirt is more a-line, fold over placket, simple turn under sleeve placket.
2. Started with a medium size bodice and large skirt-bodice snug so redrew lines and cut a large size for bodice.
3. Sleeves are very similar to the Burda pattern. Turning under the placket was quick and easy, especially with the tencel. Sleeve cap less shaped than Burda.
4. Fold under placket was another time saver.
5. Good instructions, lots of information, mostly clear 🙂 Happy with my fabric choice.=
Burda Shirt Dress #5971 in stretch twillNo safety pins!!
1. Features: bust darts only, straighter skirt, not as much shape, folded sew-on placket, traditional sleeve placket.
2. Made size 16 bodice and 18 skirt. Fit well.
3. Sleeve has a well shaped cap, took a little easing with the twill.
4. Pattern instructions were misplaced so followed Grainline instructions.
Burda 6067, Neck B in cotton knit
1. Burda has a “new look” which seems to mean even less instructions! But still the same great drafting.
2. Narrow-but not too-turtle neck. Long sleeve has ruching with a strip of elastic but not interested.
3. I sized up as it seemed to be close fitting, happy I did.
New Look 6469 in rayon knit
1. Similar to Laundry Day Tee made previously except raglan instead of set in sleeves.
2. Pattern calls for a zip with the turtle neck but not necessary with rayon knit. Turtle neck very similar in size to the Burda tee above.
3. I like the fit of the New Look better than Love Notions Laundry Day.
February Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, February 8, 10:30 at Quilters Haven in Rosemount
Thursday, February 9, 10:30 at First Sewing in Bloomington
Saturday, February 11, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge in St. Paul
Material Girl Sewing 