Great makes at Ginny’s and Creative. Duck in out of the rain with us at Sewing Lounge on Saturday, 6/14, 10:30 am!!
Wednesday/Thursday Sew and Show!
Happy Feet!!
Come to Garment Sewing Group this week to see these shoes live and in person!!
June 2025 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, June 11, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester
Thursday, June 12, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and fabric swap!
Saturday, June 14, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Seven of us got together with Lisa to construct our shoes last Thursday at Creative Sewing. We had so much fun! Here are some of the finished shoes-if you want to see more work in progress, keep scrolling down. Lisa offers the class at Tiny Apple Quilt Shop in Anoka (the former Millie P. Store.)
May Garments-Wednesday and Thursday Edition
It’s fun to edit the photos and relive the garments we saw and fun we had! And since sunshine is lacking today-here are a few warm weather makes for starters-
Debbie and Kristin’s May Garments
Bringing a little sewing sunshine into your rainy day!
Debbie’s Garments:
I have made this jacket before so my petite adjustments were already made along with narrow shoulder adjustment and slimming sleeve width at hem.
The darts are so small in this pattern that I eliminated them and eased in the bust fullness in the princess seam without any problem.
The fabric for the jacket raveled easily so I did partial Hong Kong finishes and serged all other seams.
The two piece sleeve and faced hem are a plus for this pattern.
I am a fan of lightweight jackets in the warm seasons du to air conditioning and this jacket will help ward off too much chill. It was a quick and easy make.
I made my standard petite adjustments on the pattern, pin basted, made more adjustments – narrow shoulder adjustment and put “darts” in neckline of paper pattern and finally cut out the pattern from my lovely fabric and did lots of basting. The neckline was too big so I made more adjustments and sewed away.
So disappointing – I could not get the neckline to fit properly.
I really liked the fabric and felt it went well with my jacket so – I cut off the original neckline and made a scoop neck instead – much more wearable for me.
I believe the problem was that I chose the wrong fabric for the pattern. My rayon has too much drape. I should have selected a more structured fabric.
I like the pattern so when I find the correct fabric I will try the pattern again.
I made this pattern last year as shown but this time I eliminated the collar/neckband and did a serger bias neck finish. I also downsized the cuff, gathered the sleeve into the cuff without a closure and eliminated the sleeve tab. I didn’t want all that fussiness for a breezy linen blouse.
I did a split hem finish with twill tape for hem at the side seams. The method I used is from Rose Glyde@thudiy22.
This was so fun for so many reasons: great fabric, easy and attractive details like the darts on the sleeve, back seams coming over to side front, oversized but not too much and quick and easy to make.
It is a cropped top so I did not do any petite adjustments.
I copied Intostitches and used the satin for casing tie instead of the main fabric.
Again so fun even though this type of garment is generally not in my wheel house!
Kristin’s Garments:
This pattern has been calling to me from my stash so gave it a try in cotton. Very well drafted, all went together well. Lots of pleats and darts but really only two pattern pieces and a facing.
Zip was needed as neck is close fitting. I would like the sweetheart neckline to be a bit bigger all around but it fits well. Sleeve pleats make wearing easy when on but a little weird getting off and on.
Fit changes-raised the waistline so it was 1” shorter overall, minimized vertical darts.
I think I’ll keep the pattern for future as it has some good features and fit well but it won’t be a go-to pattern.
More darts, please!! Three darts per leg and the knee dart is on inside leg but after the blouse, not a problem-if only I felt as good about my zippers!
Swapped out the outside pocket for an inside pocket (pattern calls for a stacked pocket!! Cool feature if you are into it. Curious to see how a curved pocket hangs as my last few pants have had a straight diagonal line for pocket opening.
Pattern has pocket facings (and hem facings) so I used them to get a nice finish and be able to have my fancy fabric right side out on my pocket so I see it. But then I held up the pants and realized I can “see” the fancy side through the pants!!! Hopefully I will not stand still and no one will notice 🙂
Waistband is almost 3” deep so I cut that down to a 1” casing. I like the pants-slimmer fit than others and fun to put together.
Pattern has been in stash and catalog pic compelled me to give it a try. Collar didn’t call for interfacing but after trying without (too flimsy) I interfaced. Top went together well.
Skirt has a lining so sewed that up first and-too tight! Called Sarah’s Fabrics in Lawrence, Kansas and got 3 more yards as there wasn’t enough to cut a second skirt.
Was very curious how the tulip shaped front skirt would hang with straight back skirt-added about 3” to back skirt. Pleated the difference in back skirt to back bodice to match the front pleats. Very happy with the skirt! Didn’t use the lining as it restricted movement and didn’t want more weight pulling bodice down. Pleasantly surprised at how it hangs on body.
Again, not a go-to pattern but the drafting was fun to work with and I love the fabric!
Workshops at Ginny’s/Rochester-3 Day Pants Fitting, June 3-5, 3 Day Hand Tailoring, June 6-8, 3 Day Couture Dressmaking, June 9-11. More info www.LoveCoutureSewing.com
Retreat for Bernina Folks-Pines and Needles in Rochester, Ultimate Sewing and Quilting Retreat. Comes highly recommended by a few of our people. August 4,5,6. https://pnqs.net/pages/the-ultimate-sewing-quilting-retreat
June 2025 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, June 11, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester
Thursday, June 12, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, June 14, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
May’s First Installment
It was a beautiful spring Saturday in Rochester and some of you were all decked out! Ginny was full of enthusiasm, even hinting that she would carry Big 4 patterns (she carries Burda now).
We’ll be at Lakes Makerie on Wednesday (May 14) and Creative Sewing on Thursday (May 15). Come join us!!
April Garment Sewing Group-Kristin and Debbie
April rocked and no snow cancellations!! Woohoo!
The calendar for May is set in stone now-
Saturday, May 10, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Wednesday, May 14, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Thursday, May 15, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Without further ado:
Debbie’s Garments:
Floral Print Jean Jacket
I loved this fabric and always love toppers in the warmer months so I was ready to try out the Butterick pattern again.
For fit I did my standard petiting and narrow shoulder adjustment. Because I eliminated the bottom band I added length to the jacket. The sleeve and cuff on this pattern are too big for my liking so I narrowed the sleeve 1 and 1/2 inch at hem and shortened the cuff width and length to match sleeve adjustment.
I also appreciate a double yoke so I added that with the burrito method.
I like this make but I wish I would have considered the Jordan Jacket by Serendipity Studio. I made that jacket about a year ago and it has lots of pluses such as welt pockets, placket interfacings and excellent collar and sleeve placket construction methods. I think the front pocket panel could be eliminated.
*Tee shirt is from Love Notions Classic Tee Pattern.
This dress pattern has been around since 2017 and can be made into so many looks.
I have made this dress a few times and thought the fringe trim would be fun. The fabric selvage is fringed so I eliminated a lot of extra work by just using that for the facing trim.
I did extra work however working around facing construction, installing an invisible zipper and not putting pull at the top of neckline (Becky’s method) instead of a lapped zipper. I did place front and back facings on fold for this process to work correctly.
I disregarded armhole facings and instead did a serged bias edge finish.
I love this fabric and I thought it would make a great, easy to wear dress.I made a muslin, adjusted pattern for fit issues and was excited to sew my new dress. Yikes – it was awful. I must have had on rose colored glasses when seeing myself in the muslin!
There was no way I was going to give up on this fabric. So on a not so nice day in March I decided to rescue it even though I had to do a lot of piecing such as putting a seam down front and center of sleeves.
I also put a yoke on back and did my least favorite button method for back closure Did a serged bias finish around neckline instead of facings.
I am satisfied with my rescue. The blouse is a nice layering piece and the flow and feel of the fabric is yummy.
Kristin’s Garments:
Both the pattern and the fabric have been calling out to me so I gave in and glad I did. I doubled the back yoke and installed with burrito method. The front pockets are constructed with a second backing piece so I doubled the front yoke while I was at it (it was one of the cold days 🙂 By this time I ran out of main fabric, had no lining that I wanted to use in the sleeves-because I couldn’t leave them single layer! So I used another wool that I had purchased to use with the main fabric. Very happy I did as the fabric show in the front band right up by my face!
The back lining-it’s not called for in the pattern but for some reason I wanted to make a subtle statement. This canvas has been in my stash for some time and then I have been pondering free motion embroidery so i did a little of that-it only shows if you are up close on the outside. The selvedge had a great name “Beautiful Life” so I used that as my label. I wanted a hanger tab but my label was off center so I put the tab on the outside-which I see in RTW 🙂
I omitted the dangling part of the front button band. It’s a long jacket-not my jam.
Another technique I explored was the bias binding on inside edge of collar, cuffs and button band. I used 1 3/4” strips and serged them on to edges at 5/8” (pattern’s seam allowance. Wrapped the bias to wrong side, stitched in ditch and trimmed. Then pinned facing piece in place and topstitched in the ditch from the right side.
This jacket was a process-lots of thinking and a few of the directions were conflicting. I used the Hampton Jean Jacket Sew Along from Alina Designs to apply the collar. I won’t make it again but I hope to wear it to shreds!
It’s fun to be involved in somebody else’s creative process so I couldn’t say no when Julie showed me what she was up to: a showcase to highlight the programs at the Rochester community center 125 Live. Someone from the knitting and crocheting group donated the scarves and jewelry and crocheted the hat and doodads 🙂
I picked up the pattern at the fabric swap because I liked the cuff and neck band idea and have a piece of wool I’d like to try it with. So two birds, one stone.
The pattern is simple-I added center front and back seams. The scarves were fringed so I used it. Definitely a keeper pattern for those fabrics that you just can’t cut up.
After the Eve Trousers from last month I had to give Duet a try (a free paper copy of it fell into my hands!)
The pattern has a full tummy pattern piece and straight and tapered legs. There is also a “curvy” back waistband piece that I used with much success.
The pockets are one piece that goes from side seam to side seam. Easy Peasy. The zipper is invisible-no button or anything at the top.
The “curvy” back waistband piece is quite curvy and may have shifted out of shape a bit but who’s looking? I used the bias binding technique from the jacket on the waistband.
Great fit-as long as I don’t sit down but I think the linen will relax and give me some room. All seam allowances are 5/8” and there is a great fitting guide to go with it.
Workshops at Ginny’s/Rochester-3 Day Pants Fitting, June 3-5, 3 Day Hand Tailoring, June 6-8, 3 Day Couture Dressmaking, June 9-11. More info www.LoveCoutureSewing.com
April Inspiration
Wow! Another great month of sewing-
Saturday Inspiration (A late release from March🤪)
Can’t wait to see people tomorrow at Sewing Lounge, Thursday at Creative (and Fabric Swap) and then Saturday at Lakes Makerie (fingers crossed-the snow curse is over!)
A great turnout after a snowy week! Great variety!
March Garment Sewing Group/Debbie and Kristin
Debbie’s Garments:
1. Fit adjustments include petiting between shoulder and bust, narrow shoulder adjustment and shortening the sleeves 2 inches.
2. The pattern includes lining pieces and recommends interfacing the entire front which I did as well as adding interfacing to sleeve cap and all hems. The weft interfacing I used is heavy. I think a lighter weight interfacing would have been a better choice. The pattern calls for shoulder pads. I added sleeve heads.
3. I squared off the collar and lapel edges. I also lost the pattern piece for the collar stand and needed to make my own pattern – more difficult than I thought.
4. When constructing the jacket I sometimes felt like I was wrestling with an alligator. The lining was slippery and the interfaced denim was stiff.
5. Buttonholes were not fun-I eliminated a second set on the inside of the jacket.
6. Even though constructing the coat was a challenge I do enjoy coat making!
1. Fit adjustments include petiting between shoulder and bust, shortening the sleeves 2 inches and shortening the length 2 inches between hip and hem.
2. Design changes I made were shortening the front slit and softening the curved hem.
3. The blouse is an easy and quick make. The most difficult construction step is getting the sleeve elastic to cooperate in the very full sleeve casing.
Teal/Cream Geo Print Boatneck Tee
1. This new to me Palmer/Pletsch Tee shirt pattern caught my eye. I make and wear a lot of tees and am always on the lookout for something different.
2. Palmer/Pletsch patterns are filled with directions for basic fit adjustments. The back neckline on this tee was 1 and 1/2 inches below neck so I decided to do a rounded back adjustment. I think I could have done better by just raising the back neck. Besides my standard petite adjustments I did decrease neck opening from 1/4 inch at top of sleeve to “nothing” at neck opening.
3. There is a lot of length in this pattern. I shortened the sleeve length by one inch and body length by 2 inches.
4. This pattern also caught my eye due to the bust dart which I appreciate. I pressed the dart up “for a more youthful look” as quoted in the directions!
Kristin’s Garments:
1. I had to sew up this wool that I bought at Sewing Workshop in Kansas last fall. Not sure that the color is what I should wear but I will pair it with other colors to bring out my colors.
2. The deep cuffs, lack of collar, and stitching lines are what drew me to the pattern. I didn’t want a bulky jacket to wear under winter jackets.
3. I made a size 16 and went to 18 at hips-length is to pattern. Shortened sleeves 1 1/4” below the elbow pleat.
4. The pattern has buttons so I cut off facing and CF to make it compatible with zipper.
5. The fit is close so I’m glad it has a lining. Lining front was in one piece with a dart-clever, Burda! I did more bagging of the lining than directions gave.
6. Rivets were added to amp up the look-I think it’s a very versatile jacket depending on fabric and notion choices.
1. I’ve made this blouse before in rayon and like the front slit (the depth of the slit is “to pattern” and perfect for me). The wool crepe is puffy so I didn’t want to do all the gathering of the neck “frill”. Instead I used a collar neck stand piece from another pattern to give me something that would look good under the above jacket.
2. This fabric was also from Sewing Workshop. The ties are made from the silk that I used to line the jacket and was purchased at Sew Inviting. I love them together! My previous blouse had a hook and eye at the neck and always comes undone so the tie was the obvious answer and part of the pattern. Ties for women also seem to be catching my eye (we see what we look for, right?)
3. The sleeves were altered to come in at the wrist and be less full. The fullness left over was pleated into a 1” band.
4. I also learned my lesson and interfaced neckband and facings 🙂
1. Another fabric find from Sewing Workshop. Figured the stretch fabric would work great in the Hudson-wrong!! When are you going to learn to check out the stretch of a novelty-strike that-any knit before cutting??
2. Fortunately I added an inch to the rise.
Tanks (Evie Tank/StyleArc) and Turtles (Burda 6990/raglan) and McCalls 6796 (sorry, no pics)
1. My go-to patterns in warm, thin wool for under layers.
Wanna go? Take a train? (Train tickets appr. $100 leaving from MSP or Red Wing:)
Haute Couture Club of Chicago Fashion Show
When:
Sunday, May 4th 2024, 11:45am-3:00pm CST
Where:
Chicago Yacht Club,Chicago, IL 60601
Cost: $65 per person
April 5th is deadline for receiving garment entries.
April 2025 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, April 9, 10:30, at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, April 10, 10:30, at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, April 12, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
The Day After the Snowstorm
Wow, driving up to Apple Valley was an eye opener! Lots of snow piled up everywhere. But the roads were good and we were all glad to see our sewing people and amazing sewing projects.
More to come on Saturday (tomorrow) at The Sewing Lounge!!
Material Girl Sewing 