August Garment Sewing Group

Last of summer sewing??? We’ll see…

Debbie’s Garments:

Butterick 6901, View A/cotton spandex and Bemberg lining and Burda 7062, View A (pants)

The only fit adjustment I needed to make on the vest was narrowing the shoulder.

The pattern calls for interfacing the entire front-I just interfaced the buttonhole area at center front due to the weight of my fabric.

I especially like the shaping of the vest and the faux welt pockets. I eliminated the back ties – too fussy for me.

Summer Coral Pants

Burda 7062, View A

This is a TNT pattern. Since I had plenty of fabric left from my vest I knew I had to follow up with matching pants.

I like the slits at leg hem and the contour faced waistband.

Pants can be boring but can feel pretty especially when bias binding is used on bottom edge of waistband.

The vest and pants were a fun and easy make.

Sofia/Sinclair Patterns/Jersey knit

I shortened the length of the tee 1” between the bust and waist and 1” from hem length.

The pattern comes with neck variations, long, 3/4 or short sleeves, cuffs and modesty panels.

Very easy and quick make.

Compose Robe/Love Notions/cotton

Length adjustments included petiting between the shoulder and bust on fronts, back and sleeves. I chose to do the knee length and shortened that length 2 inches.

Due to the fabric, pattern and construction methods I chose this make became a bit of a challenge.

The fabric has no right or wrong side. It’s a plaid/check that needed matching and my machine needles did not enjoy stitching through fabric that wasn’t just one layer.

I cut the width of the band in half, gathered it, and serge finished that with self made bias – my needles/machine did not like the thickness of the seam. Also I didn’t have quite enough fabric to go around the robe opening.

Instead of patch pockets I made inseam pockets and used French seaming everywhere except for inserting sleeves into armhole. It got too confusing keeping track of right and wrong side. The sleeves were serged into armhole.

I gathered about 6 inches on the center back of robe. Then I attached the center of the tie to the back of the robe on the gathered stitching. The ties are secured with that stitching and with belt loops at side seams.

This was a good learning make for me, especially the french seam pockets – a new skill for me that I will try again.

Kristin’s Garments:

McCalls 8515/linen stripe

My go-to summer dress is a Vogue out of print/fussy pattern so tried this one to see if I can get the same effect with less fuss.

Shortened the waist by 1” and then ended up changing waist shaping even more.

Found a fun trim in my stash and when it wasn’t quite enough, I made do.

Decreased collar depth by 3/8”.

Too late for August but Closet Core just came out with the Edith Dress which is similar.

Closet Core Azure Top and Dress/cotton

Cut out a size 12 going to 14 at hips. Another sewist had warned me that it was close fitting and she wasn’t wrong-I let out side seam allowances as far as 5/8” seam would let me.

Love the half facing for armholes and neck. Burrito roll is explained very well.

Pattern called for a 1.25” hem-I used a piece of bias facing to keep it longer.

Love Notions Barrington Boxy Tee/rayon knit

Had to give this one a try as it’s a look I like. Cut out a size large and am happy with the fit.

Pattern includes three sleeve lengths and three necklines.

August Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, September 10, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Thursday, September 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, September 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester

Saturday at Sewing Inviting

Sew Inviting hosted our meeting on Saturday and what a wonderful morning it was-looks like Sew House Seven and Love Notions won out for summer sewing!!

Audrey is wearing and made Linn Tee/Elizabeth Suzann and Ballet Bow Skirt/Matchy Matchy. Lisa is wearing Audrey-made Collage Gathered Top/Matchy Matchy and self-made Demi Pants/Tessuti
Perfect summer uniform-Ballad Blouse and Sybil Skirt/Love Notions
Remy Blouse/Sew House Seven
Reed Skirt/Grainline Studio in canvas
Sauvie Dress/Sew House Seven in linen
Butterick 6942
And she matched the fish! “Water” is fabric selvage 🙂
KwikSew Swim Hoodie-when will they reissue those great patterns??
Lodo Dress/Sew House Seven
Strata Top/Sew Liberated and A-Line Midi Skirt/Assembly Line

A Week of Sewing in July

Great meetings and then the grand opening!!

We started the week at Sew Inviting in St. Paul-

Give your scraps new life at the fabric swap!
Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs
Closet Core Kalle Shirtdress
Sewing Workshop Ikina Jacket
Cashmerette Kineton Dress
Letting the small piece of ultra suede speak 🙂
Simplicity 2195
McCalls 5741

And then Creative Sewing-

Friday Pattern Company Donny Shirt and machines embroidery
MeandMissMoore Feel Good Dress modified and study in one piece patterns for 14” and 18” dolls
Megan Nielsen Matilda Dress
Elbe Textiles Kidman Jacket
Closet Core Cielo Dress
Fun summer grandkids sewing Peekaboo Patterns
Sewing Workshop Bird Blouse
Love Notions Band Camp Shirt
Love Notions Caprice (?) Skirt and Cashmerette Top

And then it was on to the grand opening of Open Studio Sewing!

Waiting in the embroidery line-

Worth the wait!
Lots of people!!!
A great group out to support new fabric stores!!

June-Debbie and Kristin Garments

Next month’s dates and details-switching up our Saturday meeting-

July Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday July, 9, Sewing Inviting, St.Paul

Thursday, July 10, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

***Saturday, July 12, Meet up at Open Studio Sewing, 4210 Minnetonka Boulevard, St. Louis Park-grand opening!! Wear something you’ve sewn.

For just this meeting, we are going to head to the grand opening of Open Studio Sewing. Debbie and I will bring our garments and pattern review sheets for you to see but no formal meeting. Wear something you’ve made and think about what fabrics/notions you’d like to see at the new store in St. Louis Park!
Let us know if you are coming 🙂

Store opens at 11 am-maybe meet for coffee?? More details as date gets closer.

Also, The Stashery has opened at the Textile Center-a year round secondhand textile supplies store.

Fun to see the new options popping up with the closing of Joann!

Debbie’s Garments:

Style Arc Marley Shirt/Jewel Washed Linen

For fit I did my usual petiting as well as narrow shoulder adjustment and shortening body and sleeve length one inch.

Pattern does not call for interfacing the button placket but after testing a piece of scrap fabric I felt the interfacing would be a plus.

I needed to pay attention to the directions carefully since seam allowances go from 3/8” to 1/4”. I did change the order of construction to keep the garment flat as much as possible. I did get myself in trouble though – I did not hem the shirt when pattern directed and made that the last step. It was difficult to maneuver sewing in the round with such a deep hem.

This was a new pattern for me – I especially like the deep, split hem. This pattern is a keeper.

Grainline Studio Willow Tank/Rayon

This is a TNT pattern for me, especially since I have made my necessary fitting adjustments from previous makes. It is a quick and easy make.

I like the neck and armhole bias edge construction rather than facings. I use the serged bias edge method.

This pattern works well with a wide variety of fabric types, makes good use of small amounts of fabric.

Itch To Stitch Santorini Top/Cotton

I made this pattern last summer from a linen as part of a 3 piece outfit. It is a good layering piece, especially under summer toppers.

Even though it is a detailed make I knew it would go together quickly this time since I had made fitting adjustments and also that the pattern directions are excellent.

I put one buttonhole on the side panel and sewed the buttons to the opposing panel without buttonholes. – The tank can be taken on and off easily with just the one button opening.

My first make was a solid linen and the construction details are easily seen. This time with the stripe fabric the princess seams and shaping detail get lost. In retrospect I wish I would have put the stripes horizontal on the front and back side pieces.

Itch To Stitch Melrose/Rayon

Going through my fabric when picking projects this month this piece caught my eye because it went nicely with my teal makes.

I had a limited amount of yardage so pattern choices were limited. After trying to fit a few other patterns on my fabric the Melrose seemed to work the best.

It is a boxy, cropped top so the only fitting adjustment I needed to make was a narrow neckline.

I changed the order of construction by sewing one shoulder seam and then continue with a serged bias neck edge finish. I also did a split hem.

Another quick make but putting a grown on sleeve into a fitted jacket sleeve doesn’t work well. This will not be a layering piece but it does go with my color them.

New Look 6407, View A/Cotton

I made this pattern many years ago and it is a favorite. I do like the fitted style.

Due to my petite adjustments the neckline isn’t too low which is fine in warmer weather but not a style I like to wear in colder weather.

The print main fabric is a bit busy so to break it up I added a contrast fabric to collar, neck band and cuffs. It’s a little bright but I think it works.

The split cuffs are fun and a nice change from classic shirt cuffs.

Kristin’s Garments

Anything But Ordinary/Cutting Line Designs/Cotton woven

In preparation for my quilted jacket (hopefully next month) this pattern seemed a possibility and the fabric was perfect!

Made a size small to pattern but added topstitching and a bias band at the neck. I like the back vent.

Custom Pants Retreat (see orange shorts in two photos above)

Vogue 7881/Robert Kaufman linen/cotton blend

Lots to learn at the couture class. Vogue pattern was very similar to the Rika/Closet Core pattern of a few months ago. Attempted shorts for my first post muslin trial.

Omitted zip front and added casing. Couture techniques most likely won’t show up in future sewing projects but it was fun to learn how.

Burda 6990, View A/Poly knit (notice the yogi print :))

Tried and true pattern. Used the crew neck version and realized you get at least two entire shirt patterns in a package. Unfortunately the yoga retreat happened before the outfit got done!

Roxanne Cargo Sweatpants/Cotton French terry

Went down two sizes in all seams except waist to give me a bit deeper crotch level. Made shorts as a muslin-added 3” to leg length!!

Used Tinley pocket pattern to get slant pockets. Great pattern!

All groups begin at 10:30

June Garment Sewing Group Final

Great group of people at Sewing Lounge on Saturday! Thanks to all who attended!!

Great print for a tee
Cool shoes kept showing up! Wearing Sewing Workshop Riviera Top
Sew House Seven Revel Top
Another finished pair of Happy Feet!
With cool labels
Terrazzo Dress from Closet Core Crew
Cutting Line Designs Light and Shadow
Assembly Line Pleat Front Shirt and Syd Graham Saundra Skirt
Every state park in this little one’s future-
Lucky baby!!

Wednesday/Thursday Sew and Show!

Great makes at Ginny’s and Creative. Duck in out of the rain with us at Sewing Lounge on Saturday, 6/14, 10:30 am!!

First up, our U of M Fashion Design student (one more year!) in Burda 6146
End of year project-a swim suit-she highly recommends making your own-
A big month for blouses! New Look 6407 (Debbie also made it this month)
Wren Blouse from Chalk and Notch
Also Wren/Chalk and Notch
Puff and Pencil Wrap Blouse
Simplicity 8983
Polka dot remnants on a tank
Fashion trend: Fruit!!! In Schoolhouse Tunic/Sew Liberated
“Just” a tee shirt dress (OK, tee and skirt/McCalls 6886) in PUCCI knit!!
“Just” a denim jacket-Vogue 1710
With HOLES at the elbows!!!
“Walking the moors” in her Jalie Genevieve skirt
Another great summer blouse-Matchy Matchy Collage Top
Clown costume for the grandkids
Sewn Upline Jacket hacked into a summer sweatshirt
Stylearc Verona on hanger/wearing Jalie Women’s T-Shirt
Jalie Eleonore as nicely topstitched jeans (no, she didn’t make her sneakers-but she could have!!! 🙂
One more Happy Foot!
And the beginnings of second pair!

Happy Feet!!

Come to Garment Sewing Group this week to see these shoes live and in person!!

June 2025 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 11, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester

Thursday, June 12, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and fabric swap!

Saturday, June 14, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Seven of us got together with Lisa to construct our shoes last Thursday at Creative Sewing. We had so much fun! Here are some of the finished shoes-if you want to see more work in progress, keep scrolling down. Lisa offers the class at Tiny Apple Quilt Shop in Anoka (the former Millie P. Store.)

There were tigers in the print and it’s the mascot at her former school 🙂
Betcha can’t guess who made these!!
Work in progress
So much fun!

May Garments-Wednesday and Thursday Edition

It’s fun to edit the photos and relive the garments we saw and fun we had! And since sunshine is lacking today-here are a few warm weather makes for starters-

Greenstyle 3R Shorts in Caress Athletic fabric from Discovery Fabrics
Highly recommended Faye Swimsuit from Closet Core Patterns
Cashmerette Calder Pant
Vogue 1868 and Free Range Pant/Sew House Seven
Sewing with next generation hacked pattern 🙂
Vogue 1477 Sandra Betzina
New Look 6150
Bella Loves Patterns Kaia Coat with great instructions and video for making from double cloth
Close up detail of handwork
New Look 6582
Remy Raglan with sleeve extension/Sew House Seven, StyleArc Twig Pant
Verdin Woven Tee Liesl & Co
Sinclair Delia Top and Jalie Eleonore Pant
Vogue 9347 Blouse and Sew House Seven Free Range Pant
Cashmerette Haskell Shirt
Aprons and Bags Galore!
Granny Squares with her embroidery machine!!!
Amazing!!
Graduation Season!

Debbie and Kristin’s May Garments

Bringing a little sewing sunshine into your rainy day!

Debbie’s Garments:

Vogue 1644, View A, cotton main fabric, Bemberg rayon sleeve lining
And, as usual, the inside does not disappoint 🙂

I have made this jacket before so my petite adjustments were already made along with narrow shoulder adjustment and slimming sleeve width at hem.

The darts are so small in this pattern that I eliminated them and eased in the bust fullness in the princess seam without any problem.

The fabric for the jacket raveled easily so I did partial Hong Kong finishes and serged all other seams.

The two piece sleeve and faced hem are a plus for this pattern.

I am a fan of lightweight jackets in the warm seasons du to air conditioning and this jacket will help ward off too much chill. It was a quick and easy make.

NOT The Assembly Line Puff Sleeve Shirt, Rayon challis

I made my standard petite adjustments on the pattern, pin basted, made more adjustments – narrow shoulder adjustment and put “darts” in neckline of paper pattern and finally cut out the pattern from my lovely fabric and did lots of basting. The neckline was too big so I made more adjustments and sewed away.

So disappointing – I could not get the neckline to fit properly.

I really liked the fabric and felt it went well with my jacket so – I cut off the original neckline and made a scoop neck instead – much more wearable for me.

I believe the problem was that I chose the wrong fabric for the pattern. My rayon has too much drape. I should have selected a more structured fabric.

I like the pattern so when I find the correct fabric I will try the pattern again.

McCalls 7360, View C with changes, Flax EU linen

I made this pattern last year as shown but this time I eliminated the collar/neckband and did a serger bias neck finish. I also downsized the cuff, gathered the sleeve into the cuff without a closure and eliminated the sleeve tab. I didn’t want all that fussiness for a breezy linen blouse.

I did a split hem finish with twill tape for hem at the side seams. The method I used is from Rose Glyde@thudiy22.

Closet Core Mile End Sweatshirt, View B with satin ribbon, organic cotton

This was so fun for so many reasons: great fabric, easy and attractive details like the darts on the sleeve, back seams coming over to side front, oversized but not too much and quick and easy to make.

It is a cropped top so I did not do any petite adjustments.

I copied Intostitches and used the satin for casing tie instead of the main fabric.

Again so fun even though this type of garment is generally not in my wheel house!

Kristin’s Garments:

Simplicity 9705/Cotton

This pattern has been calling to me from my stash so gave it a try in cotton. Very well drafted, all went together well. Lots of pleats and darts but really only two pattern pieces and a facing.

Zip was needed as neck is close fitting. I would like the sweetheart neckline to be a bit bigger all around but it fits well. Sleeve pleats make wearing easy when on but a little weird getting off and on.

Fit changes-raised the waistline so it was 1” shorter overall, minimized vertical darts.

I think I’ll keep the pattern for future as it has some good features and fit well but it won’t be a go-to pattern.

Sepia Pants/Closet Core/Lightweight linen

More darts, please!! Three darts per leg and the knee dart is on inside leg but after the blouse, not a problem-if only I felt as good about my zippers!

Swapped out the outside pocket for an inside pocket (pattern calls for a stacked pocket!! Cool feature if you are into it. Curious to see how a curved pocket hangs as my last few pants have had a straight diagonal line for pocket opening.

Pattern has pocket facings (and hem facings) so I used them to get a nice finish and be able to have my fancy fabric right side out on my pocket so I see it. But then I held up the pants and realized I can “see” the fancy side through the pants!!! Hopefully I will not stand still and no one will notice 🙂

Waistband is almost 3” deep so I cut that down to a 1” casing. I like the pants-slimmer fit than others and fun to put together.

Burda 6451/Textured weave rayon
A little more detail-

Pattern has been in stash and catalog pic compelled me to give it a try. Collar didn’t call for interfacing but after trying without (too flimsy) I interfaced. Top went together well.

Skirt has a lining so sewed that up first and-too tight! Called Sarah’s Fabrics in Lawrence, Kansas and got 3 more yards as there wasn’t enough to cut a second skirt.

Was very curious how the tulip shaped front skirt would hang with straight back skirt-added about 3” to back skirt. Pleated the difference in back skirt to back bodice to match the front pleats. Very happy with the skirt! Didn’t use the lining as it restricted movement and didn’t want more weight pulling bodice down. Pleasantly surprised at how it hangs on body.

Again, not a go-to pattern but the drafting was fun to work with and I love the fabric!

Workshops at Ginny’s/Rochester-3 Day Pants Fitting, June 3-5, 3 Day Hand Tailoring, June 6-8, 3 Day Couture Dressmaking, June 9-11. More info www.LoveCoutureSewing.com

Retreat for Bernina Folks-Pines and Needles in Rochester, Ultimate Sewing and Quilting Retreat. Comes highly recommended by a few of our people. August 4,5,6. https://pnqs.net/pages/the-ultimate-sewing-quilting-retreat

June 2025 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 11, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester

Thursday, June 12, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, June 14, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

May’s First Installment

It was a beautiful spring Saturday in Rochester and some of you were all decked out! Ginny was full of enthusiasm, even hinting that she would carry Big 4 patterns (she carries Burda now).

We’ll be at Lakes Makerie on Wednesday (May 14) and Creative Sewing on Thursday (May 15). Come join us!!

Victoria was busy last winter hand embroidering skirts-
Vogue 1898 became Vogue 8577
Part of mother of the bride ensemble
New Look 6145
Fjord Cardigan/Friday Pattern Company
Zakopane Shirt/Itch to Stitch
Cottage Shirt/Sewing Workshop
London Shirt/Sewing Workshop
Pattern unknown/Ice dyed silk
Vogue 1312
Love Notions Aurora Dress
StyleArc Shacket
Ginny’s Metallic Knit in favorite tee pattern
Self drafted bag in cork
Love Notions Caprice Skirt in rayon
3-D Print on knit in favorite tee dress